Thanks for sharing this. Not sure if you know this already but... When using various height dies/stamps with the same press... you sometimes need to reposition the working arm to get the angle correct for the best leverage when making the cut/stamp. This will also help to keep your arm and shoulder healthy by pulling from the best angle and reaching the bottom of your throw without straining your body. . What I learned and have done with my arbor press is this... -Grind/machine out two teeth on the toothed pressing bar (take your time, keep the heat low, perhaps using a cooling fluid also). -Load the end of the presser bar so that space you created by removing the two teeth, is at the bottom. . -To adjust the handle starting point for your best leverage and starting angle... rotate your working arm to drive the pressing bar upwards until the toothed gear of the arm starts skipping due to the space you created when you removed the two teeth from the bar. -Rotate the working arm until it's at the best starting point so when you reach your die, you are pulling downward from an angle that gives you the best leverage without putting your arm and shoulder into a poor position and losing efficiency of your press/cut while saving the health of your shoulder, arm and wrist. . Hope that came out making sense! lol
*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*
Awesome. Just got this arbor press about a month ago and was researching ways to make a bigger base/cutting area for dies. This is what ill do until i can afford the mighty wonder clicker press.
Thank You so much for the vid!! Genius absolutely!!! But I can’t find the 20 ton Harbor freight press conversion vid that you’re talking about. I know this is very old vid but it’s still would really help me out since I have a 20 ton harbor freight press. Thanks again have a great one.
Outstanding !! I will absolutely get one of these. The only thing I think I will go with cheaper pre made dies to start with. Thank you so much for your help!! You do amazing work!
Well, well well, A $60 press huh, my wife gets my belts from Tandy leather and stamps my name in them along with little wolf Figueres, well were both too old now and a leather press is something liek $400, I need a press for my garage anyway so why not, thanks for eth video, my wife forwarded it to me, and, I have been looking at that very press
I know this video is older but hopefully someone can answer my question. Where would I find the steel plates. Idk if any metal shops and how thick should they be? Secondly will any cutting board do?
Check out Arbour Press Guy on IG or his website. As far as cutting boards go, i like em thicker rather than thinner. You can custom order one at plasticcuttingboards.com
Maybe my die is dull. Using same brand of press and purchased the bar from the provided link. Won't really cut and the bar starts to bend when I pull hard. Best I can do is make an outline in the leather. Easier and deeper than tracing a pattern but not doing what I had hoped.
I'd bought a 1ton press. I'm a jeans maker. I'd like to emboss my logo onto leather patches. Would adding a longer arm/bar work, or would I need a heat press machine? I'm new to the process, obviously. Please advise when you can.
you can get steel rule cutting die where the blade are set in wood and will last you forever I would fasten your metal plates to the machine and everything has to be level once your plates are fastened you can use .25 clear plex to cut on but you have to have table level yo can do this with paper under the plex. if you need more explanation get back to me
Thanks for sharing this.
Not sure if you know this already but...
When using various height dies/stamps with the same press... you sometimes need to reposition the working arm to get the angle correct for the best leverage when making the cut/stamp. This will also help to keep your arm and shoulder healthy by pulling from the best angle and reaching the bottom of your throw without straining your body.
.
What I learned and have done with my arbor press is this...
-Grind/machine out two teeth on the toothed pressing bar (take your time, keep the heat low, perhaps using a cooling fluid also).
-Load the end of the presser bar so that space you created by removing the two teeth, is at the bottom.
.
-To adjust the handle starting point for your best leverage and starting angle... rotate your working arm to drive the pressing bar upwards until the toothed gear of the arm starts skipping due to the space you created when you removed the two teeth from the bar.
-Rotate the working arm until it's at the best starting point so when you reach your die, you are pulling downward from an angle that gives you the best leverage without putting your arm and shoulder into a poor position and losing efficiency of your press/cut while saving the health of your shoulder, arm and wrist.
.
Hope that came out making sense! lol
Не нужно не чего точить и выпиливать . Просто откручиваете винт вытаскиваете рычаг и вставляете как нужно вот и все
*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*
Great tips
Thanks for showing the cutting capacity. I've seen some videos where all they do is a couple small hole punches or setting rivets.
Great how-to video. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Awesome. Just got this arbor press about a month ago and was researching ways to make a bigger base/cutting area for dies. This is what ill do until i can afford the mighty wonder clicker press.
Well this is gon help me out so much on time cutting! Thanks for the video!!
Thank You so much for the vid!! Genius absolutely!!! But I can’t find the 20 ton Harbor freight press conversion vid that you’re talking about. I know this is very old vid but it’s still would really help me out since I have a 20 ton harbor freight press. Thanks again have a great one.
Just ordered a press. Gonna set it up just like this. Thank you!
Awesome!!!
Holy crap! Such awesomeness! Brilliant! Thank you for posting!!
Outstanding !! I will absolutely get one of these. The only thing I think I will go with cheaper pre made dies to start with. Thank you so much for your help!! You do amazing work!
Absolutely
Very useful video, as you stated clicker presses are incredibly expensive.
Thanks a Lot... Clicker press, stamping press, 🙏🙏🙏.... Rivet & hole punch also will do with modifications in Ram...
Thanks for this video. I just got this set up. Works wonders with the dies!
Thanks for another great video... Keep up the good work...
Well, well well, A $60 press huh, my wife gets my belts from Tandy leather and stamps my name in them along with little wolf Figueres, well were both too old now and a leather press is something liek $400, I need a press for my garage anyway so why not, thanks for eth video, my wife forwarded it to me, and, I have been looking at that very press
Wow. Great video. Thanks
I love this creative solution! Thank you very much for the detailed explanation!
You're very welcome
LIFESAVER!!! I'll be following your lead on this one for sure!
Just started leather working in October, and I got that press for xmas to try just that. Thanks for the video.
Awesome!!
Awesome video man! I already have a 1 ton press for stamping but I'm sure I can make it do both
Exactly what I’m looking to do for my press thanks for the tips man !!!
Absolutely
That pop is so satisfying 😂 Very clever idea, Thank you so much!
Oh yeah. You're very welcome
Very nice! Now a subscriber.
Thank you
Nice video on the new addition to the shop! My question now is ...... what are you doing with the larger press ?
Ill still use it for thicker leathers. Its still great for 9-10oz
Genius.
Nice 👍🏻
Where can I find info on how those dies are made?
www.usacuttingdie.com/
Great video dude! Any chance you can share the link for the steel plate? I’m having trouble finding it. Thanks!
Thanks for this!. Your amazing!💪🏽🤙🏽
Keep the handle and slide a 3 ft length of 1/2 black pipe over it. More rigid and will not flex.
how about a if you a put a big ass tamp under the pressure?
Nice One.
I know this video is older but hopefully someone can answer my question. Where would I find the steel plates. Idk if any metal shops and how thick should they be? Secondly will any cutting board do?
Check out Arbour Press Guy on IG or his website. As far as cutting boards go, i like em thicker rather than thinner. You can custom order one at plasticcuttingboards.com
@@AttackLineLeather Thank you!!
This unit is no longer available from HF, do you have any other recommendations?
Here is a link to one. Thank you for the heads up.
HHIP 8600-0031 Heavy Duty Arbor Press, .5 Ton Capacity, 10" Height (Pack of 1) a.co/d/fU51c0W
Great video and well put together! Can i please know where you bought the extended bar?
Thanks. I picked it up from Lowes
@@AttackLineLeather is it a "Breaker bar" modified to fit or and actual Arbor Press extension?
@@braulioneira its just a piece of 5/8 steel that i found in their metal section
Can you set rivets, snaps, spots? Hole punch, stamping ? 😀
You'd need to drill out a hole to be able to add the appropriate setters. You can definitely stamp
Thanks for posting.
Do you think this machinery combination will work on very thin PVC material? Like the plastic found on cheap 3 ring binders?
Yes that should work nicely
Good!
could you attach the steel plate directly to the arbor press? either by magnets, weld, etc?
Absolutley
Maybe my die is dull. Using same brand of press and purchased the bar from the provided link. Won't really cut and the bar starts to bend when I pull hard. Best I can do is make an outline in the leather. Easier and deeper than tracing a pattern but not doing what I had hoped.
If its older thats possible. What thickness leather are you trying to cut?
@@AttackLineLeather 4 to 5oz
Can you do a follow up video about that Chinese shoe patcher machine.
Hoping to. Still cleaning it and trying to get it going
Awesome thank you.
I have this arbor press already, but do you. Think a setup like this would work for bulk fabric cutting instead of leather?
I think it could. All depends on the sharpness of your cutter at that point.
Thank you sir!
Itemize all materials. As an example, the ram foot is $50.00.
It the press was heavier u think. I can do it in one cut? Instead of multiple
You can also find a 3 ton press. I just got one and will hopefully have a review soon.
I'd bought a 1ton press. I'm a jeans maker. I'd like to emboss my logo onto leather patches. Would adding a longer arm/bar work, or would I need a heat press machine? I'm new to the process, obviously. Please advise when you can.
Both would work. This method might be easier and cheaper. It would not take a ton of force to emboss your logo with a custom stamp
@@AttackLineLeather Okay, thanks for the assistance 👍
Issue I had was when pressing coasters out with dies… my OEM bar bent.. have you noticed any warp or permanent bowing to your bar from Lowe’s?
Just a little bit. But thats after hundreds of uses. Some people use breaker bars from Harbor Freight
@@AttackLineLeather oh! I wonder how they get them attached
Отличная штука друг
Did you try it out with the stock handle to see if you could get adequate leverage?
Yes I did off camera. It was soo bad I didn't even show it. No leverage at all.
Those are wider than 1x4 more like 1x4 1/2
Did you try any 8-9oz? I was wondering if it harder to cut.
Yes i did. I lost the footage but it bent the bar a bit. 6oz seems to be about the max
@@AttackLineLeather the bar or plate got bend?
Bolts. Bigger bolts
you can get steel rule cutting die where the blade are set in wood and will last you forever I would fasten your metal plates to the machine and everything has to be level once your plates are fastened you can use .25 clear plex to cut on but you have to have table level yo can do this with paper under the plex. if you need more explanation get back to me
Hi, can you explain a little more? What do you mean by paper under the Perspex?
Just buy a damn clidker!lol
Hahaha
Not everyone can afford a damn clicker!