By the way, if you don't have a Mini yet, now is a great time to buy! Several retailers like Home Depot and Best Buy have the Mini on sale, $100 off the normal MSRP. Starlink.com isn't participating this time, so it's for 3rd party retailers only. Check the Home Depot shopping link in the video description. Buying through one of my links allows me to earn a small commission if you decide to purchase a Mini.
I did a similar set up camping in my vehicle recently. Charged my Goal Zero 500x from the vehicle. Ran the Starlink mini via ac outlet and my Iceco fridge via the 12v outlet. Good to know there aren’t major losses going with AC vs. DC power! I bought the 12v USB-C kit just in case.
And see it you will! Seems like there is good interest in that, and I love doing those types of videos anyway. Gotta wait for some better weather but I'll start working on it.
I contemplated getting this accessory but ended up finding a third-party barrel jack to USB-C cable on Amazon for around $16 since I did not need the bundled 12v plug. It also has the weatherproofing seal on the barrel jack end. I see several folks having issues with this route but so far no issues with the third-party cable.
It’s disappointing that the old Starlink Mini USB-C cable that Starlink sold back in November is not compatible with this new Starlink 12-volt adapter, even though both cables appear visually identical (the red LED on the old cable illuminates when you try). I purchased both because I wanted a backup USB-C cable in case of failure during some extended travels I’m planning soon. Both Starlink cables do work with a Dewalt 120-watt car charger. I do agree it’s very handy to standardize on USB-C cables for the Mini for simplicity, especially when traveling. I’m curious if you have tried any AC-to-USB-C chargers with the Mini? This might allow ditching the Starlink Mini AC and very long cable that I will seldom or ever use, but still occasionally be able to power the Mini by AC. In brief testing, an Anker 100-watt charger works with the Mini, but a 65-watt Anker charger will not work.
Oh wow, I didn't even think to try my original Mini USB-C cable. I can confirm, the cable I bought individually does not work with the car adapter part. When I swap to the cable that came in the kit, it works fine. No idea why they would do that, but probably has to do with modifying the USB-PD standards to ensure compatibility only with the OEM Starlink car adapter OR 20V/5A 100W USB-C ports. I haven't tried any AC USB-C chargers with the Mini, but anything with that 20V/5A 100W output should work. Even though the Mini doesn't require that much power, they don't allow the cable to even pass through power until 100W output is available.
What if we need a longer cable? I will be plugging mini into trailer 12v and I might need to position the mini farther from my trailer? Does Starlink sell a longer cable with the usb-c? Thanks for your “easy to understand” info!
For a longer run I would recommend hooking up a step up converter (12v to 48v) and using the supplied 50ft DC cable. Or just use an inverter with the included cable and AC adapter. They don’t sell a longer USB-C cable, and they are going to be limited on length due to voltage drop.
Another question - how robust do you think the Starlink Mini is? I explore the backcountry in my side by side and wonder if the constant pounding will cause it to fail internally?
It's pretty solid, I wouldn't worry about using it in a rough environment as far as vibrations or g-forces are concerned. No moving parts, nothing really to fail internally unless it's just physically impacted by something. They use these on Baja racers, in fighter jets, etc.
@@StarlinkHardware Thank you, I'm usually solo in the desert backcountry and having the Starlink would provide me with a much higher level of safety if something breaks. I do carry a SPOT tracker but having my own cell service would allow me to speak directly to rescue. I hope that never happens, but one never knows.
Will Starlink be effected by new Model Y glass roof? The new roof has silver particles for blocking infrared, which I assume will not effect broadband frequencies much, if at all, but it seems like a good idea to test.
I use order accessories like Garmin GPS, rent various models of Hertz cars in my work and have been trying to get away from the antiquated, often unreliable cigarette lighter style connector in their and my own vehicles. Best to use power banks from now on for multiple appilcations
what's best option out of trimming the OEM 45ft cable to 6ft and running 12v dc to dc cable, having a 12v-36v step up dc to dc cable or USB c to dc cable? I'd rather not use a cigarette lighter port as my fridge uses that one on my ecoflow and I don't want the inverter running.
I guess it depends on what ports you have available. If you have a DC5521 output on the Ecoflow or you have a fuse block and can just wire it in, I'd say go for just taking the excess off the included DC power cable. If you have a free USB-C port that can do 100 watts constantly (with other ports in use), the USB-C cable in this accessory kit is a good option as well.
In my van, I have added several surface-mount cigarette lighter sockets from Powerwerx (via a Blue Sea fuse block connected to a Goal Zero). It’s great having extra cigarette lighter ports for stuff like a fridge, Starlink 12-volt adapter, cell phone chargers (in handy locations), LED lights, etc. If you are not into wiring, NOCO makes a two-way splitter so you could use both this Starlink 12V adapter and your fridge from a single port on your EcoFlow.
Hmmm. I just purchased my Starlink mini two weeks ago. I purchased two cables for it with the 12 V plugs and the mini barrel connector on the end on Amazon, the 16 foot cable would not work with the mini but the 10 foot cable did. I had them plugged into my class B camper van. not sure why the 16 foot cable would not work, but I returned it to Amazon and got a refund.
I'm going to guess the conductor thickness is less on the 16 ft cable, leading to more voltage drop. Higher quality conductors inside the cable help maintain the needed voltage better.
@ I think you're probably right, I plugged it in when I was camping with the 16 foot cable and it would not boot up all the way getting no Wi-Fi and I was getting so frustrated with it. I must've spent 35-40 minutes playing with it getting madder and madder until I used the 10 foot cable and it worked perfectly.
A number of USB cables won’t “negotiate” with the power adapters well for the use of the Starlink. If you buy the Starlink cable and adapter, their design works flawlessly.
I made my own connector when I first bought the mini 6 months ago. I cut the cable out of the box to about 3m. 12v was marginal and under higher demand, the voltage drop was too much. I bought a 12v to 18v boost converter and no more issues. It is now hard-wired into my Tesla using this arrangement. If you check the voltage on the Starlink 12v adapter, it can output up to 24v, so I think 12v is generally too low.
I tried an Amazon solution, third party items but I had tons of reboots. All of my problems WENT AWAY once I used the official Starlink adapter and cable featured in this video.
I never had any issues myself, but I've heard similar reports to yours from blog readers and TH-cam viewers. It's hard to recommend a $30 Amazon cable when the Starlink one is so much better for a few more bucks!
USB C spec allows many levels of power at varying voltages. I bet the 12-24v output of your third-party solution didn't have enough power of didn't allow for long term use without overheating.
Ya I’m not sure why they locked out 60w PD using the cable when the car adapter literally outputs the same 20V/3A. Maybe in their testing they found that USB-C ports tend to stray from the rating too much? Or that the Mini was a bit finicky at that level? Since they got to design their own car adapter maybe they figured out how to fix it to work better in their design.
What a great idea. I have that Jackery power bank too. Good video! Now I know why Starlink discontinued the solo usb-c cable. BYW, Starlink shields their cables better than 3rd parties and use the proper gauge wire.
By the way, if you don't have a Mini yet, now is a great time to buy! Several retailers like Home Depot and Best Buy have the Mini on sale, $100 off the normal MSRP. Starlink.com isn't participating this time, so it's for 3rd party retailers only. Check the Home Depot shopping link in the video description. Buying through one of my links allows me to earn a small commission if you decide to purchase a Mini.
I did a similar set up camping in my vehicle recently. Charged my Goal Zero 500x from the vehicle. Ran the Starlink mini via ac outlet and my Iceco fridge via the 12v outlet. Good to know there aren’t major losses going with AC vs. DC power! I bought the 12v USB-C kit just in case.
I'm glad they included that diagram on how to connect the cable, I was seriously wondering how to hook everything up.
I'd like to see a follow up on that tiny Jackery - curious if the supplied solar panel(s) will keep up with the Starlink's small 30 watt load.
And see it you will! Seems like there is good interest in that, and I love doing those types of videos anyway. Gotta wait for some better weather but I'll start working on it.
I contemplated getting this accessory but ended up finding a third-party barrel jack to USB-C cable on Amazon for around $16 since I did not need the bundled 12v plug. It also has the weatherproofing seal on the barrel jack end. I see several folks having issues with this route but so far no issues with the third-party cable.
It’s disappointing that the old Starlink Mini USB-C cable that Starlink sold back in November is not compatible with this new Starlink 12-volt adapter, even though both cables appear visually identical (the red LED on the old cable illuminates when you try). I purchased both because I wanted a backup USB-C cable in case of failure during some extended travels I’m planning soon. Both Starlink cables do work with a Dewalt 120-watt car charger. I do agree it’s very handy to standardize on USB-C cables for the Mini for simplicity, especially when traveling. I’m curious if you have tried any AC-to-USB-C chargers with the Mini? This might allow ditching the Starlink Mini AC and very long cable that I will seldom or ever use, but still occasionally be able to power the Mini by AC. In brief testing, an Anker 100-watt charger works with the Mini, but a 65-watt Anker charger will not work.
Oh wow, I didn't even think to try my original Mini USB-C cable. I can confirm, the cable I bought individually does not work with the car adapter part. When I swap to the cable that came in the kit, it works fine. No idea why they would do that, but probably has to do with modifying the USB-PD standards to ensure compatibility only with the OEM Starlink car adapter OR 20V/5A 100W USB-C ports.
I haven't tried any AC USB-C chargers with the Mini, but anything with that 20V/5A 100W output should work. Even though the Mini doesn't require that much power, they don't allow the cable to even pass through power until 100W output is available.
Download speed when stationary vs. driving.... ? Also, if you drive fast on the highway, like 70 mph?
Check out my Mini in motion testing video: th-cam.com/video/ItEAH2vulrE/w-d-xo.html
What if we need a longer cable? I will be plugging mini into trailer 12v and I might need to position the mini farther from my trailer? Does Starlink sell a longer cable with the usb-c? Thanks for your “easy to understand” info!
For a longer run I would recommend hooking up a step up converter (12v to 48v) and using the supplied 50ft DC cable. Or just use an inverter with the included cable and AC adapter. They don’t sell a longer USB-C cable, and they are going to be limited on length due to voltage drop.
Another question - how robust do you think the Starlink Mini is? I explore the backcountry in my side by side and wonder if the constant pounding will cause it to fail internally?
It's pretty solid, I wouldn't worry about using it in a rough environment as far as vibrations or g-forces are concerned. No moving parts, nothing really to fail internally unless it's just physically impacted by something. They use these on Baja racers, in fighter jets, etc.
@@StarlinkHardware Thank you, I'm usually solo in the desert backcountry and having the Starlink would provide me with a much higher level of safety if something breaks. I do carry a SPOT tracker but having my own cell service would allow me to speak directly to rescue. I hope that never happens, but one never knows.
Will Starlink be effected by new Model Y glass roof? The new roof has silver particles for blocking infrared, which I assume will not effect broadband frequencies much, if at all, but it seems like a good idea to test.
Good question! I’m not paying $60k for the launch edition so I guess we will have to wait for someone to try it out lol
Would like a review of your jackery. New subscriber. Great video, precise and on point
I use order accessories like Garmin GPS, rent various models of Hertz cars in my work and have been trying to get away from the antiquated, often unreliable cigarette lighter style connector in their and my own vehicles. Best to use power banks from now on for multiple appilcations
what's best option out of trimming the OEM 45ft cable to 6ft and running 12v dc to dc cable, having a 12v-36v step up dc to dc cable or USB c to dc cable? I'd rather not use a cigarette lighter port as my fridge uses that one on my ecoflow and I don't want the inverter running.
I guess it depends on what ports you have available. If you have a DC5521 output on the Ecoflow or you have a fuse block and can just wire it in, I'd say go for just taking the excess off the included DC power cable. If you have a free USB-C port that can do 100 watts constantly (with other ports in use), the USB-C cable in this accessory kit is a good option as well.
In my van, I have added several surface-mount cigarette lighter sockets from Powerwerx (via a Blue Sea fuse block connected to a Goal Zero). It’s great having extra cigarette lighter ports for stuff like a fridge, Starlink 12-volt adapter, cell phone chargers (in handy locations), LED lights, etc. If you are not into wiring, NOCO makes a two-way splitter so you could use both this Starlink 12V adapter and your fridge from a single port on your EcoFlow.
Hmmm. I just purchased my Starlink mini two weeks ago. I purchased two cables for it with the 12 V plugs and the mini barrel connector on the end on Amazon, the 16 foot cable would not work with the mini but the 10 foot cable did. I had them plugged into my class B camper van.
not sure why the 16 foot cable would not work, but I returned it to Amazon and got a refund.
I'm going to guess the conductor thickness is less on the 16 ft cable, leading to more voltage drop. Higher quality conductors inside the cable help maintain the needed voltage better.
@ I think you're probably right, I plugged it in when I was camping with the 16 foot cable and it would not boot up all the way getting no Wi-Fi and I was getting so frustrated with it. I must've spent 35-40 minutes playing with it getting madder and madder until I used the 10 foot cable and it worked perfectly.
A number of USB cables won’t “negotiate” with the power adapters well for the use of the Starlink. If you buy the Starlink cable and adapter, their design works flawlessly.
I made my own connector when I first bought the mini 6 months ago. I cut the cable out of the box to about 3m. 12v was marginal and under higher demand, the voltage drop was too much. I bought a 12v to 18v boost converter and no more issues. It is now hard-wired into my Tesla using this arrangement. If you check the voltage on the Starlink 12v adapter, it can output up to 24v, so I think 12v is generally too low.
@@rogerkarlinski3779 that is what I am going to do from now on only buy Starlink accessories
I tried an Amazon solution, third party items but I had tons of reboots. All of my problems WENT AWAY once I used the official Starlink adapter and cable featured in this video.
I never had any issues myself, but I've heard similar reports to yours from blog readers and TH-cam viewers. It's hard to recommend a $30 Amazon cable when the Starlink one is so much better for a few more bucks!
that is exactly what my 16 foot cheaper Amazon Cable did. From now on I'm only going to buy Starlink accessories.
USB C spec allows many levels of power at varying voltages. I bet the 12-24v output of your third-party solution didn't have enough power of didn't allow for long term use without overheating.
Review would be great
strange that it requires 20 to 40w but it cannot be used on a 60w usb pd. and the 12v, 5A car adapter also only outputs 60w
Ya I’m not sure why they locked out 60w PD using the cable when the car adapter literally outputs the same 20V/3A. Maybe in their testing they found that USB-C ports tend to stray from the rating too much? Or that the Mini was a bit finicky at that level? Since they got to design their own car adapter maybe they figured out how to fix it to work better in their design.
I tried to power my mini off of a cigarette lighter adapter and it wouldn't do it until i put a 12-24 volt step up transformer in line
How long of a cable? At 12V you really can’t go beyond 10ft or so on the cable length.
What a great idea. I have that Jackery power bank too. Good video! Now I know why Starlink discontinued the solo usb-c cable. BYW, Starlink shields their cables better than 3rd parties and use the proper gauge wire.
Your suggested video of the Jackery power bank with the solar input would be a fantastic addition to your informative videos.