You must get this model railroad scenery right
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
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“The godly may trip seven times, but they will get up again.
But one disaster is enough to overthrow the wicked.
Don’t rejoice when your enemies fall;
don’t be happy when they stumble.
For the Lord will be displeased with you
and will turn his anger away from them.
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Hmmm, bit messy to use a spray bottle, why not use a laboratory dropper, I.e. an oversized eye dropper. 70-30 water glue mix with a drop or two of soap is all you need, no need for ipa. The dropper works very neat, fast and controlled.
If someone is worried about messing up their turnouts when ballasting, one option is to paint the roadbed under the turnout (before installing the turnout) a color that closely matches the ballast color. I've seen people use texture spray paint that looks pretty good. It won't look quite as good as using actual ballast but will look better than having brown cork or whatever.
That's a brilliant idea. I wish I would have thought about that when I built the little Hammer Valley MRR a couple years ago. Will definitely keep this in mind next time I build a section or a layout. Should work well for N Scale.
Thanks for the tip.💡
Exactly....the cork's texture once painted, looks like ballast I think🚂
Steve and Jimmy, I’ve messed up my turnouts pretty bad. If you have time one day, can one of you make a video of replacing an n scale turnout without destroying all the track around it. I’d like to see how you experts would do it. I love both of your channels, and the two of you inspired me to get back into the hobby. Thanks!
@@radiofryso, I actually have a video on that from several years ago: Removing and Saving Ballasted Turnouts from the HO Train Layout
th-cam.com/video/1SGM0MDW79Q/w-d-xo.html
An eye dropper works really well for putting the glue/water/alcohol mixture exactly where you want it.
Something I find very good, never just use one color of ballast, make a blend of different colors so it doesn't look to uniform when you're finished. Same goes with foliage, bits of ballast and leaves and just about everything else has some amount of color variation in it. A simple trick for instantly better scenery. I also paint the track before applying ballast, only the tops of the rails are every shiny on the real thing where the wheels touch the rails.
You did an excellent job ballasting the track. One of the things I like to do before I ballast is to weather the sides of the rails by using Mission Models Dark Rust airbrush paint. I use a small piece of wood to remove the paint off the top of the rails after it cures. Then I will use their Rail Tie Brown to paint the individual ties to make them look like the cresote ties we see today, then I ballast. Through the lens, you wouldn't be able to tell if it was a model or the real deal. I'm not sure you could go back and do it since it's now ballasted but either way, it looks great! - Jason
Using a syringe for applying glue is much better, running it against the ties allows you to regulate the spread of glue.
Hi Jimmy. Nice video. You used a finger to remove the ballast from the ties; a way to minimise this is to use a metal spoon to tap the rails, causing the ballast to fall between the ties. This method is not 100% perfect, so a little more cleanup will be required.
Jimmy, great video - ballasting always intimidated me, and you have made it very approachable. Three alternate suggestions: I apply both IPA and scenic cement with 3 mL plastic pipettes. These are both cheap and disposable. Fill the pipette, then slowly release the liquid first along the edges of the ballast. You will see the alcohol (or glue) flood up the sides of the ballast. If necessary, repeat along the outside of the rails until the ballast is SOAKED. Next, repeat this process down the center of the track. The pipettes are less messy and allow greater control of where the IPA/glue goes. Second: I glue a layer of basic ground foam fine turf along the base of the roadbed before applying ballast. The ballast then goes on top of the ground foam, just like in nature. It makes it easier to blend later layers of scenery into the track without covering up the ballast. Third, for those who want wooden grade crossings instead of concrete, Blair Line makes very nice, crossing kits for both straight track and curved track - you can even buy the straight crossing kits pre-stained. (Note: I am not affiliated with Blair Line in any way.)
You can prolong the life of the dropped by rinsing it with hot water after use.
@@diedertspijkerboer Which in fact I do. But it's comforting to know that if I go off and forget it, I've only wasted a few cents. And of course, if it's IPA, no rinsing required.
You must also research whether or not ballast was actually used. Early track was often pioneer track, laid without ballast, which reduced loco-hauled traffic speeds considerably (plus they had this annoying habit of driving really slowly anyway).
Also I don't really see that many prefabricated section level crossings; the asphalt is usually just sculpted right up to the edge of the rail. It's like the builders just sculpt the stuff with their bare hands, like a gamer using artist's modelling putty to make a ground texture.
To be fair to Woodland Scenics, the Scenic Cement is not just "White Glue and Water". It is something else. A matte medium of some sort with an added wetting agent. According to the product's safety sheet it contains only non toxic ingredients. This is good if you are concerned about that. Also the Scenic Cement drying time is way faster than white glue and water.
White glue, depending on the product, may contain toxic materials. Added water to regular white glue dillutes the glue and extends the drying time, making the glue not work as effective as it would in full strength.
Personally, I use Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement for everything ballast, but the main reason is the products absolutely best feature: Even when completely dry, it can be reactivated by water. Spray water on a ballasted track and I can pick the track up in seconds after the water comes on. If I accidentally get water on areas I do not want to change, let the water evaporate, and the glue dries back up. It's the best! 👍
It makes it extremely easy to change things on my layout. Try doing that with white glue and water. Especially if you dilluted white wood glue. There is no way it will ever come apart without a hammer and a chisel... 🙈
im thinking about starting my own model railroad. a vast majority of my layout design will not include track with ballast (behind the scenes, bridges, tunnels). my layout is a teardrop turn around at both ends, no switches and double track on the straightaway (basically a one train railroad). my scenic end incudes a bridge and tunnel under mountain/hill (part of this end should have ballast). the other end may be like street running with tracks embedded in either cement or asphalt. the straightaway (actually an L shape) will be behind a sofa and part may be on a long low bridge. my straightaway will be low; only a foot or so above the floor at its highest so as not to block the low windows. one end will actually be on the floor so as to go under the bottom step of a staircase and then rise to the "street running" train station or depot scene. i dont want to spend a lot of money and time building it so im doing the minimal i can get away with. im building it for my enjoyment so im building it how i want to. i may have enough room behind the sofa to do something (scenery, etc) but havent decided what yet.
I ballasted part of the layout when I started getting back in the hobby, but I won't be doing anymore. The layout went from being quiet to sounding like I drum, so now the cork is my ballast.
Your a better man than me, when ballast my track, I wouldn't go near my turnouts I left then ballast free. I useN scale I figured I could get away with it and so far no one has ever complained or said Ed you didn't ballast your turnouts. 😅😅😅
Same here. I am deathly frightened of trying to ballast my N Scale turnouts. Thing is that turnouts do fail from time to time (although not often), so it can be a daunting task to replace one if it is ballasted. So I gladly join the camp of not ballasting my turnouts. If I modeled in HO, I might be a little more brave with ballast around my turnouts. But in N Scale? Nope.
This reminds me, I really should get in there and do a little more ballasting on the Hammer Valley....someday.😂
Saw quite a few things here that need to get mentioned.
1. The spray bottle needs fine misting, not dropping.
2. Ensure that there is not a single piece of ballast on the rails and ties (I saw several)
3. Weather your rail before ballasting, it's far less work this way.
4. Clean your rails appropriately, the loco cuts out as you're doing testing.
Excellent video just got my track where my GP7 and UP3450 run perfect so next step I guess is ballast the track. Thanks for this video will help me a lot Happy Railroading
[thank, you for you're great helpful video]👍
Great video and it looks good!! Thanks for sharing and have a good day. Happy modeling!! -Jason
Thanks Jimmy!
awesome tips. I would love and consider paying to see how someone installed a grade crossing through multiple turnout frogs. This is what I have on my layout and I despise Walthers Grade crossing for this application.
Thanks for your video. I was wondering how to ballast my first layout project and you cleared many questions. Greetings from Mexico
I did my first ballast job using your instructions mainly. I kind of enjoyed it. Thanks for making videos on these topics; it really helps!
Thanks for sharing your technique with us and giving the options for gluing it in place. I haven't started doing mine yet, so watching videos is a great start for me. Thanks again
Nice job. I have two ways that I like a little better when it comes to glue. Big areas instead of spray bottle I just use the glue bottle, the Elmers tip adjustment is fine enough to just have drips. So it gives control and volume. Second is using Ballast magic at the turnouts. It’s great because even though you still have to take the car of where it goes but once in place it is a lite mist of water and you are done.
You are correct about getting ballast right. Several years ago I made a small n scale layout for my son and I totally messed up the ballast. Took all the fun out of it. Got him Kato unitrack instead. Ballasting a lot better now. Fun has remained!
I am quickly becoming a big fan of Kato Unitrack. Sure it has its limitations, but the fun factor, when compared to "regular" track, makes it worth the slightly higher cost.
I messed up on my first time doing the ballast. I thought I saw you do glue, ballast, IPA, scenic glue, IPA. That last IPA was my mistake and I quickly found the ballast wasn't sticking.
My second mistake was to not put enough scenic glue. I was so worried about getting a crust of glue and that caused me to not put enough. I did it again and put quite a bit more. Still finding some ballast is coming off.
Get spray bottle from a beauty supply store such as Sally's....they are guarranteed to mist.
So you can mix the IPA/Water/Glue in a bottle together. Do like a 40/40/20 IPA/Water/Glue or 40/50/10. You really don't need that much glue in the mix for it to do its job, the IPA helps the water/glue mix actually go through the spray bottle allow it to...well...actually spray.
Note: Since you do have 3d printers, you can find the HO scale Ballast Spreader STL (can also be found in N). It really helps get the ballast right by spreading it evenly for you, as you pour into the top.
A friend of mine mixed glue and alcohol and it did NOT work. I ended up with white globs of glue. I mean my friend did.
Great and informative video!! Did you have a section where you ran the locomotive across the road crossing? Were there any "hiccups" with trucks being lifted by the roadway?
A few points from my experience -
I have a very easy and stress-free method for track ballasting - a friend who LOVES to ballast (HA!!)
A method I use for ballasting around turnouts: I keep a can of electronics duster near the turnout I'm working on. Before gluing, insert the spray tube into the throwout bar openings and blast out any unwanted ballast, then glue as with the other track.
Once the glue has dried, carefully unstick the point rails from the ties below, (re)clean out the flangeways, point gaps and top of the tied under the point rails. My second "handy can" is silicon spray. Again, insert the spray tube into the throwout bar area (and into the ground throws if you are using them) and LIGHTLY shoot a small bit of silicon into these areas. First, it will dry without showing any lubricant residue and second, your points will/should move very easily. If not, reclean the various areas and check the movement again. If necessary, you can give a quick shot of the silicon under the point rails - again, the silicon spray does not leave visible residue and your turnouts will move very freely.
Great video! I think I learn a new trick or two every time I tune into your channel! 👍🏻👍🏻
To apply dilute white glue I use an empty French's mustard bottle. The small hole in the cap is the perfect size for ballasting.
Just to be on the safe side I always move the switches back and forth a couple of times while the glue is drying. Also I always set the turn out rails in the center of the tracks while ballasting. I’ve never had a switch get glued shut
Love your videos :)
Nice video Jimmy. I have had problems in the past and am about to make a start on doing some more. Something I did find is that temperature fluctuations where I live often mean that the rail with ballast attached comes adrift from the foam base. An interesting problem to try to solve. I have 35 metres, nearly 40 yards, of track so temperature does have a massive effect.
If you use a digital micrometer to measure a few pieces of Woodland Scenics "medium" ballast, scale up the measurement, your individual pieces of ballast will end up being the size of volleyballs (in HO scale). Also, compare WS medium ballast pieces to an HO scale figure's head. Similar sizes. Fine is more prototypical in HO scale.
I really like the foam brush tip!
Good tutorial. I use a small spray bottle for my 90% isopropyl and then use a pipette as a dropper for my ballast glue. I build T Trak modules that have to survive storage and transport to shows.
I agree with the others about the use of pipettes. But I put my scenery down first and then the ballast. I will add some greenery on some to look like over growth.
I wonder if you started the mix with IPA and glue first if that could help smooth the chunks of glue in the bottle. Then add in the water.
Thanks great job 👏
I'm just about to start ballasting and will use a very similar method, but without using IPA first and with a dropper to apply the "scenic glue".
I bought Noch ballast originally and then discovered Mica decorative sand at a gardening store, which I like way better and is much, much cheaper. So as not to waste my Noch purchase, I will mix it with the sand in a 1:3 Noch to Mica ratio.
good vid thanks lee
Ballasting! How DARE you use that language around me.🤣🤣
I find myself looking for almost any "excuse" I can find to avoid ballasting. I actually have a couple of those little N Scale ballast spreaders, which makes the job a little less daunting. And the funny thing is that once I finally resolve myself to doing some ballasting, it really isn't so bad.
Spray paint the cork grey before you use it.
I'm a ballast lid guy, lol
🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲🙋
I'm one of those whack jobs that loves ballesting. Always have. To me, it's a part of the scenery process.
Have you looked into Ballast Magic? Especially for around turnouts?
I thought it was a gimick, but then I saw it in action and I was incredible impressed.
I tried it, but I wasn’t very impressed with it. I followed the directions carefully but still had too much ballast get sucked up in the final vacuuming.
as always, love you daddy
Wouldn't the 91% IPA damage the painted surface since 91% IPA is used to take paint off of models?
re ballast outside, do you suggest glue at all? If yes, which? I have to add more ballast b/c of rain, but did not think of any glue.
Are you referring to ballast on a garden railway?
@@DIYDigitalRailroad yes
Great video, Jimmy. Definitely a piece. I am not looking forward to.
hello
Your track needs paint