Thanks for this vid! I had this same issue, and found out that it was due to back-pressure (lines to pool/spa were clogged)--- so air couldn't fully escape from heater, caused entire heater to bang/rattle. Pretty freaky when your heater starts moving around like an out of balance washing machine!
Thx Sid... Your video was so helpful to me. Lucky I didn't need to replace anything. Let me explain, My heater was doing everything your was so I thought I would need to replace the thermostat but, while you were explaining how it works (with the water flow) it dawned on me that my spa jets were not as strong as there usually are. Last night while laying in bed I realized that I haven't cleaned out my filters in a long time. So today after work I did just that and now the heater is working just fine. If it wasn't for you explaining how it works inside I wouldn't have figured it out. Thanks again! I not only wanted to thank you but tell my issues. Maybe this my help someone with the same issue I had.
Thanks for the feedback and glad to hear that no repair was needed! That's always the best news. Very good point that ultimately the real issue is that water flow rate is not adequate and causes the water to steam or vaporize in the heater. Thanks again for the comment!
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem with a heater that was installed in 2003. Ordered the online parts and used your video to complete the repair.
Other than the wrong o-ring lubricant good job I would suggest unions on the in/out tubes next time to make removal easier as well as the pump out side 🤠
Thanks much for the video! I am about to tackle the same project and I'm having trouble removing the pressure switch tube. I wanted to see what it looked like and how it fits inside before yanking on it too hard. This was very useful, so I thank you sir.
@10:28 You used petol-gel. Never use petroleum-based grease for o-ring lubrication. It will eat away rubber and you will have to redo this for leaking. Always use silicone-based or PTFE-based(aka Teflon) lubricants such as Lube Tube or Jack's formular 327, or just 3M silicon.
If anyone is having problems threading the nuts back onto the manifold I found 3 different sets I ordered were slightly misshapen and would prevent them from threading on. I eventually wrapped them in a towel and poured hot water from a tea kettle to soften them up and they thread on perfectly. Hope this saved someone the head ache I went through
If you get the full front header assembly (Hayward part # IDXLFHA1930) do you even need the bypass insert? And also for the bypass insert only, does part # HAXBPK1931 supersede what is shown in my owner's manual as part # HAXBPI1931?
Is that a standard pressure relief valve ? I was thinking of adding one, just like the one on a hot water tank. I had a issue with one of the plumbing bypass valves and instead of the heater shutting down and blinking low flow, it had just enough water to keep the burners going. This caused the manifold to split.
I'm not sure if it was a standard pressure relief valve or not. It came with the heater. I don't know why a standard one for a hot water heater wouldn't work
That heater went through a bad water chemistry prior or after you got it to be corroded like that. Stay on top of the water. It’ll be the fastest way to have to replace the exchanger. As a warranty tech for pentair. I’ve seen brand new heaters a month old the water are through exchangers. Ruined sensors ect.
Hello, I have a Hayward H400, the flame turn on but after the water is hot I believe, the systems shots off and bang. So the hot water don't come out. What can it be ? Please help.
Well to be 100% transparent, I am not a trained or paid pool tech, just a DIY guy trying to get the most for his money. Not a lot to work with on the description of your problem but we can start with what you mentioned. If you have the system shut off after the water gets hot, very likely you are reaching a point where a limit switch is kicking in. It seems that most of these heaters have several "trigger" switches that would stop operation. Those could be anything from water flow to the water being heated too hot. First step would be to see what error code is displayed when the heater stops. A good google search of hayward 400 error codes or hayward 400 repair / troubleshooting will lead you to the documents to help you step by step figure out what is wrong. To follow these, you will need to be experienced in using multi meters and testing circuits. If your not comfortable with that, probably best to look for a pool tech. Having said all of that, my first guess is that you are hitting a high limit switch due to the temperature being too high which is likely due to restricted water flow or damaged heat exchanger. Best of luck in your repairs!
Hello. Today is the first day 4/18/2021. I ever hear a clanging noise in my Hayward 400 installed 2001. Previous repairs fan stopped working 2002. Since then till now no problems. 20 years I haven't done anything of cleaning or servicing to the unit. Great units time for maintenance. In your video was the thermostat and the by-pass insert the banging/clanking noise? Any part kit where all those parts come together or separate? Great video Thank you.
The noice was from low water trapped in the exchange heating to boiling point. The bypass and flow control weren't working correctly and not allowing enough water in so they had to be replaced.
Yes it was. Your video helped me so much. The weak plastic(by-pass flow) break was the problem. Replaced and the thermostats (governor) too. Now fixed. If you get a 1F error after repairs. Your orifices(gas tip nozzle). A 7/16 wrench removes them. The orifices had spider web. Cleaning and re assamble that fixes that too. HEATER works great again. Thank you for your video.
I used a couple of different vendors. Once I found the part numbers, I used google and ebay to find which stores had them for the least amount of money. Glad the video was helpful for you!
Fred Juarez in my case and most cases it seems, the loud noise is from steam building up in the exchanger section. If you are starting it up for the season make sure your flow control valve is open to run the water through the heater. If that’s open then you might have a problem with either of the parts I replaced.
Thanks for the informative video! I was curious if you knew what size of o rings you needed for the 2 in/out connections (the ones you pointed at at the end saying it was hardest to put back on)? Or would the local pool supplies store know/have them in stock? Thank you!
It seems with most pool related things it's very difficult to source them anywhere other than a pool store unless you know the specs. My heater is a hayward 400 idl2 and the kit for the o rings is listed as part haxfor1930. if you can't find it, some of the better pool stores can cross reference for you.
Sid Taylor thank you for the info. I also have the same heater and was able to verify that p/n with the local supply shop. Thanks for your informative content!
I put the multiport valve on the pump to the closed position but even then there was lots of water left in the system. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the manifold to get all of the water out of the heater. Thats the main problem with a heater repair is that most times you can't run the pump because the heater is inline. Not sure what you mean by tighteners but everything on the outside of the manifold came off either with a wrench or a socket. Thanks for watching!
What was the issue getting the unions reconnected to the manifold? Im having the same problem, It’s like the threads are stripped but there not on the Manifold or the unions.
In my case I'm pretty sure it was due to the pvc pipes not being perfectly aligned with the manifold on the heater side. I had to spend a lot of time backing the nuts up to the point it felt square and then slowly rotating them on. Started with one and after a few tourns started the second. Hope that helps.
The nuts are misshapen slightly bought 3 different sets before I thought of wrapping them in a towel and pouring boiling water over them. They soften up just enough to thread on and take the right shape
Well you should here a whoosh of gas as it cranks up and then while heating the water you should have gas flame sounds. Are you hearing something other than that?
@@ronsmith4569 That could be the issue I covered on this video and as others have mentioned, basically poor water flow / heat control causing the water to steam up causing that noise. If it gets increasingly worse and sounds like a dryer with shoes in it, could be the issue covered on the video.
David Till I tried looking for my order receipts with no luck. Basically if you do a google search using the Hayward part numbers you’ll find plenty of options I did just have some great experiences with pool supply world.com with low pricing and quick shipping. I would absolutely stay away from Sunplay.
Thanks for the Video. My heater was making that knocking sounds. I replaced everything inside the water manifold now my heater is not coming on anymore. Do you know what could be the problem?@@wichitasid
Your video helped my do this exact repair to my 20+ year old heater. She's back on-line! Thanks very much.
congrats on getting it running!
Thanks for this vid! I had this same issue, and found out that it was due to back-pressure (lines to pool/spa were clogged)--- so air couldn't fully escape from heater, caused entire heater to bang/rattle. Pretty freaky when your heater starts moving around like an out of balance washing machine!
Thx Sid...
Your video was so helpful to me.
Lucky I didn't need to replace anything.
Let me explain,
My heater was doing everything your was so I thought I would need to replace the thermostat but, while you were explaining how it works (with the water flow) it dawned on me that my spa jets were not as strong as there usually are.
Last night while laying in bed I realized that I haven't cleaned out my filters in a long time.
So today after work I did just that and now the heater is working just fine.
If it wasn't for you explaining how it works inside I wouldn't have figured it out.
Thanks again!
I not only wanted to thank you but tell my issues. Maybe this my help someone with the same issue I had.
Thanks for the feedback and glad to hear that no repair was needed! That's always the best news. Very good point that ultimately the real issue is that water flow rate is not adequate and causes the water to steam or vaporize in the heater. Thanks again for the comment!
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem with a heater that was installed in 2003. Ordered the online parts and used your video to complete the repair.
Excellent Video - very helpful - I watched and performed this repair, wife happier.
Other than the wrong o-ring lubricant good job
I would suggest unions on the in/out tubes next time to make removal easier as well as the pump out side 🤠
Dude you just saved me so much money, pool service companies must hate this video lol
Glad it was helpful for you!
Thanks much for the video! I am about to tackle the same project and I'm having trouble removing the pressure switch tube. I wanted to see what it looked like and how it fits inside before yanking on it too hard. This was very useful, so I thank you sir.
Glad it was a help for you. Thanks for the kind comment.
Thanks Sid. It was a great DETAILED video. Just what I needed. Followed your instructions and it fired right up.
Just completed this project thanks to this video! Thanks a million!
Gald it was a help to you!
Thank you so much sir!
Most welcome!
@10:28 You used petol-gel. Never use petroleum-based grease for o-ring lubrication. It will eat away rubber and you will have to redo this for leaking. Always use silicone-based or PTFE-based(aka Teflon) lubricants such as Lube Tube or Jack's formular 327, or just 3M silicon.
Great video brother.
If anyone is having problems threading the nuts back onto the manifold I found 3 different sets I ordered were slightly misshapen and would prevent them from threading on. I eventually wrapped them in a towel and poured hot water from a tea kettle to soften them up and they thread on perfectly. Hope this saved someone the head ache I went through
If you get the full front header assembly (Hayward part # IDXLFHA1930) do you even need the bypass insert? And also for the bypass insert only, does part # HAXBPK1931 supersede what is shown in my owner's manual as part # HAXBPI1931?
Awesome, however I cannot find a supplier for the rebuild kit of the manifold, 206A 266,000 BTU natural gas rheem unit, any ideas, thanks!! jrs
Galveston is where I went to high school. Go Bucs!!!
Is that a standard pressure relief valve ? I was thinking of adding one, just like the one on a hot water tank. I had a issue with one of the plumbing bypass valves and instead of the heater shutting down and blinking low flow, it had just enough water to keep the burners going. This caused the manifold to split.
I'm not sure if it was a standard pressure relief valve or not. It came with the heater. I don't know why a standard one for a hot water heater wouldn't work
Great video helped me do the work. How is yours holding up after all this time?
Appreciate the feedback. I moved to a new address in 2021 but that function of the heater was still working perfectly.
That heater went through a bad water chemistry prior or after you got it to be corroded like that. Stay on top of the water. It’ll be the fastest way to have to replace the exchanger. As a warranty tech for pentair. I’ve seen brand new heaters a month old the water are through exchangers. Ruined sensors ect.
Hello, I have a Hayward H400, the flame turn on but after the water is hot I believe, the systems shots off and bang. So the hot water don't come out.
What can it be ?
Please help.
Well to be 100% transparent, I am not a trained or paid pool tech, just a DIY guy trying to get the most for his money. Not a lot to work with on the description of your problem but we can start with what you mentioned. If you have the system shut off after the water gets hot, very likely you are reaching a point where a limit switch is kicking in. It seems that most of these heaters have several "trigger" switches that would stop operation. Those could be anything from water flow to the water being heated too hot. First step would be to see what error code is displayed when the heater stops. A good google search of hayward 400 error codes or hayward 400 repair / troubleshooting will lead you to the documents to help you step by step figure out what is wrong. To follow these, you will need to be experienced in using multi meters and testing circuits. If your not comfortable with that, probably best to look for a pool tech. Having said all of that, my first guess is that you are hitting a high limit switch due to the temperature being too high which is likely due to restricted water flow or damaged heat exchanger. Best of luck in your repairs!
@@wichitasid Thank you for your respond, I am sure you help a lot.
Hello. Today is the first day 4/18/2021. I ever hear a clanging noise in my Hayward 400 installed 2001. Previous repairs fan stopped working 2002. Since then till now no problems. 20 years I haven't done anything of cleaning or servicing to the unit. Great units time for maintenance. In your video was the thermostat and the by-pass insert the banging/clanking noise? Any part kit where all those parts come together or separate? Great video Thank you.
The noice was from low water trapped in the exchange heating to boiling point. The bypass and flow control weren't working correctly and not allowing enough water in so they had to be replaced.
Yes it was. Your video helped me so much. The weak plastic(by-pass flow) break was the problem. Replaced and the thermostats (governor) too. Now fixed. If you get a 1F error after repairs. Your orifices(gas tip nozzle). A 7/16 wrench removes them. The orifices had spider web. Cleaning and re assamble that fixes that too. HEATER works great again. Thank you for your video.
Broke one of the nuts while putting it back , any instructions on how to replace it ?
Where can I purchase the parts that you purchased? Video is very helpful.
I used a couple of different vendors. Once I found the part numbers, I used google and ebay to find which stores had them for the least amount of money. Glad the video was helpful for you!
@Sid Taylor thanks Sid, I got the part numbers from your video and did the same. Thanks for the video.
Shoot video horizontal or upload as full vertical. Hard to see due to crop.
Thanks so much for sharing....
So what caused the banging? Ours started banging yesterday and thought it was the exhaust blower
Fred Juarez in my case and most cases it seems, the loud noise is from steam building up in the exchanger section. If you are starting it up for the season make sure your flow control valve is open to run the water through the heater. If that’s open then you might have a problem with either of the parts I replaced.
The internal bypass. Anytime u get the clunking ect while it’s running 100% is the internal bypass
Thanks for the informative video! I was curious if you knew what size of o rings you needed for the 2 in/out connections (the ones you pointed at at the end saying it was hardest to put back on)? Or would the local pool supplies store know/have them in stock? Thank you!
It seems with most pool related things it's very difficult to source them anywhere other than a pool store unless you know the specs. My heater is a hayward 400 idl2 and the kit for the o rings is listed as part haxfor1930. if you can't find it, some of the better pool stores can cross reference for you.
Sid Taylor thank you for the info. I also have the same heater and was able to verify that p/n with the local supply shop. Thanks for your informative content!
The copper tube on the left side was for the flow switch.
How did you stop the water flow from the pool? What did you use to remove the large tighteners on the outside of the manifold?
I put the multiport valve on the pump to the closed position but even then there was lots of water left in the system. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the manifold to get all of the water out of the heater. Thats the main problem with a heater repair is that most times you can't run the pump because the heater is inline. Not sure what you mean by tighteners but everything on the outside of the manifold came off either with a wrench or a socket. Thanks for watching!
What was the issue getting the unions reconnected to the manifold? Im having the same problem, It’s like the threads are stripped but there not on the Manifold or the unions.
In my case I'm pretty sure it was due to the pvc pipes not being perfectly aligned with the manifold on the heater side. I had to spend a lot of time backing the nuts up to the point it felt square and then slowly rotating them on. Started with one and after a few tourns started the second. Hope that helps.
The nuts are misshapen slightly bought 3 different sets before I thought of wrapping them in a towel and pouring boiling water over them. They soften up just enough to thread on and take the right shape
What if the sound I’m experiencing is like more of a gas or combustion noise??
Well you should here a whoosh of gas as it cranks up and then while heating the water you should have gas flame sounds. Are you hearing something other than that?
Yes, sounds like a banging or beating of a drum while heating
@@ronsmith4569 That could be the issue I covered on this video and as others have mentioned, basically poor water flow / heat control causing the water to steam up causing that noise. If it gets increasingly worse and sounds like a dryer with shoes in it, could be the issue covered on the video.
Thanks for the video. This is exactly what I was looking for as my heater is knocking also. Where did you buy the parts for this unit?
David Till I tried looking for my order receipts with no luck. Basically if you do a google search using the Hayward part numbers you’ll find plenty of options I did just have some great experiences with pool supply world.com with low pricing and quick shipping. I would absolutely stay away from Sunplay.
David Till Almost forgot to say thanks for the kind review.
Thanks for the Video. My heater was making that knocking sounds. I replaced everything inside the water manifold now my heater is not coming on anymore. Do you know what could be the problem?@@wichitasid
Great Video
Rolando Castillo are you getting any kind of error message on the display?
Do you have the part #s that were used?
I believe the kit I ordered was part number HAXBPK1932. Link here www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352013835.htm
just get an extendable magnet if you lose the screw..
Tried that on one screw did not work. Looks like they are stainless steal
How much do you think this repair would cost if you had your pool guy do it?
Did you find out how much for a pool person to come out and fix it?
@@noelsanchez380 no
In todays market could be 600 to 1000$
With all the jerkin around it’s hard to see what you’re actually doing