The washer you have with the Piaggio nut. Is for the variator. Piaggio use the same nut for the clutch assembly, and variator. The spring tool looks quite good. I think once you have used it a couple of times, it would become easier.
The piaggio water coold has a small belt at the end of the crank shaft that drives the oil and water pump and its pretty dumb and it stays behind the variator
I just noticed that 2 days ago on my torque control clutch, 2 of the 3 screws that secure the shoes were totally loose Thankfully i caught it before something gave
Love the progress :) I would avoid spraying clutch with brake cleaner because inside of the clutch pads are rubber bushings, also brake cleaner can be harsh on colored surfaces, and strip paint... not sure how can act with clutch pads glue. In that situation it is better to use it over paper towel :)
Yeah, the rubber inside may not like it. I'm not worried about the paint. I've used it on scooter clutches for as long as I've worked on scooters without issue, but I could see it being more ideal to localize treatment to the pads.
I run this same clutch setup on my boys race quad it's a 90cc DRR. Guys at the track including myself rough up the surfaces with a green scotch brite pad and brake cleaner to knock off the glaze the belt leaves on the pulley and variator between heats. At home though I clean everything with simple green or purple power. I haven't noticed any abnormal belt wear that being said I put on a new belt about every 3-4 races just for maximum grip. I would love to have this motor he would destroy the competition but next year we're moving to a shifter quad so no sense investing in one now.
I love how the special tools don't come with any instruction... Another great video... I wish it would have been out when I was installing my NCY super trans kit... (that I will probably be replacing pretty soon anyway)... I am learning that they don't make the best quality stuff... I also noticed that it looks like if you add shims to the variator or drive pulley, you will not have much in the way of splines for the starter paw to grab... That is what I noticed on my set up too.... I removed the shims and went to to a black 1000 RPM contra from a Yellow 1500 after a belt failed with only around 300 miles on it...
NCY and other Taiwan made stuff is OK. I used it for years. It's not generally on the same level as the big Euro parts brands like Polini, Malossi, Stage6, but I've had a lot of fun with generic Taiwan made cylinders, cranks, MultiVar clones, and other tuning parts. The main thing to avoid is the cheapest Chinese stuff. Some of it is OK, but some of it is awful.
What rpm does the purple spring needs to compres and is it better than the red and can you tell me what's a good set up for 70cc jog whit stock cvt just springs and rolers I need it for stunts and sport
I don't know what RPM rating it would be. Malossi calls it +82%. I've never seen the need for very stiff contra springs in most setups and generally stick with 1000RPM or the lower range of stiffness in aftermarket springs. If you want more revs, just try lighter weights. I'm not a stunt guy, but I've seen enough people stunting stock 4Ts with no power to know that the setup isn't everything there. Some people say they don't like anything aggressive because it's harder to control. Personally, I only do power wheelies so I rely on a lot of power and a clutch setup that snaps in hard. I have a video all about the Stage6 Torque Control clutch setup that I use. th-cam.com/video/dV2qgdgmwkM/w-d-xo.html
@49ccScoot thanks I will watch it and one think a dude told me that the stiffer spring means better take off and softer means better top speed and yea it needs skills too and some balls to do it but the bike dosent have the 4t pull that they have in power band it just dosent want to go up the only way is to do at dead stop and pull it up and then it will do it ok
@@preslavnikolov923 A better way to think of it may be; stiffer = higher RPM and softer = lower RPM. Too soft or too stiff is not good. For most stuff that's not incredibly powerful, stock to 1000RPM/soft aftermarket will do fine. Adjust RPM from there with rollers/sliders.
@@49ccscoot i have stage 6 mk2 racing cylinder and mhr team 2 variator stage 6 rear pulley and stage 6 mk2 clutch with red springs and no weights shloud i put all weights in it 😃
@@trekban4140 Depends how your setup works. If you think it slips too much at launch, add weights. Slip can be good if you have traction or wheelie issues.
This is Steve I like to meet you in Ocean City this summer and take both of my gyc project bikes ones are road racing 90cc 52 mm and the other bike is a drag bike but I can still write it on the street I had the fatty tire kit on it and stretched it
Hey Steve. I like riding around there so maybe we can get together sometime. If nothing else, I'll be trying to go to Bikefest and Endless Summer Cruisin' in Sep/Oct.
The ones for the bell are made by Malossi. The ones for the clutch itself I think people have said you can get from webike in Japan. I'd assume there must be more sources.
Hello Brent, Im in trouble, i had an offer for a tpr 86cc kit but without a piston, in my country it's very expensive 4x the price I could by the bare cylinder used. Can you tell me the diameters of the piston, so I could ask if the malossi mhr team big bore 80cc 50mm piston would fit in the tpr kit. Or if you know by any chance if there's an alternative piston for the kit it would be awesome. Thank a lot!
I know RRD-Preperation sells an alternative, but I don't recall if the price was any better. Something to look into. The piston should be around 49.95mm for a standard replacement.
@@49ccscoot but i was thinking, if the piston height and other diameters are off by milimeters, the transfers wouldn't meet correctly. That's why I was asking about the piston height, and the distance from the pin to the top.
@@pepelazy3249 Yes, compression height needs to match closely. You may get away with overall piston height being a little different and the skirts could possibly be modified if they were a bit long. You just mentioned diameter, so that's what I gave you, but I can check one of my pistons and get back to you on total height and compression height.
Wrist Pin : 12mm Compression Height : 24mm Total Height From Skirt To Crown Edge : 47.25mm Piston Ring Locator Location : Looking at the crown with the intake/boost side facing up (exhaust arrow down), the locator pin is at about 11 o'clock.
@@49ccscoot thanks a lot man! Do you think that the piston ring locator's place would matter? Im not from the usa but If I understood correctly that is the stop for the piston rings correct?
Funny you mention sliders rule of thumb to add a gram is not exactly true I just switched to sliders and I’m almost down the OG weight with conventional rollers🇺🇸🛵
That's one of the prettiest CVT setups I have ever seen. Looks super beefy too.
Can't wait for the start up!
The washer you have with the Piaggio nut. Is for the variator.
Piaggio use the same nut for the clutch assembly, and variator.
The spring tool looks quite good. I think once you have used it a couple of times, it would become easier.
You rock Brent. Loved how you popped from the bottom at the beginning or the vid. Hahahaha
Thank you, you had a mechanic with you from Algeria
The piaggio water coold has a small belt at the end of the crank shaft that drives the oil and water pump and its pretty dumb and it stays behind the variator
Thanks for the video! 49ccScoot 💯
謝謝！
Thank you! My Super Thanks has been up for months and you are the first person to use it!
Had the screws that hold in the clutch shoes rattle loose on mine. Highly recommend putting a little loctite on them.
I just noticed that 2 days ago on my torque control clutch, 2 of the 3 screws that secure the shoes were totally loose
Thankfully i caught it before something gave
cheers Brent, Its looking good
Love the progress :) I would avoid spraying clutch with brake cleaner because inside of the clutch pads are rubber bushings, also brake cleaner can be harsh on colored surfaces, and strip paint... not sure how can act with clutch pads glue. In that situation it is better to use it over paper towel :)
Yeah, the rubber inside may not like it. I'm not worried about the paint. I've used it on scooter clutches for as long as I've worked on scooters without issue, but I could see it being more ideal to localize treatment to the pads.
I run this same clutch setup on my boys race quad it's a 90cc DRR. Guys at the track including myself rough up the surfaces with a green scotch brite pad and brake cleaner to knock off the glaze the belt leaves on the pulley and variator between heats. At home though I clean everything with simple green or purple power. I haven't noticed any abnormal belt wear that being said I put on a new belt about every 3-4 races just for maximum grip. I would love to have this motor he would destroy the competition but next year we're moving to a shifter quad so no sense investing in one now.
❤ I like to have this engine someday 🙏🏽
I love how the special tools don't come with any instruction... Another great video... I wish it would have been out when I was installing my NCY super trans kit... (that I will probably be replacing pretty soon anyway)... I am learning that they don't make the best quality stuff... I also noticed that it looks like if you add shims to the variator or drive pulley, you will not have much in the way of splines for the starter paw to grab... That is what I noticed on my set up too.... I removed the shims and went to to a black 1000 RPM contra from a Yellow 1500 after a belt failed with only around 300 miles on it...
NCY and other Taiwan made stuff is OK. I used it for years. It's not generally on the same level as the big Euro parts brands like Polini, Malossi, Stage6, but I've had a lot of fun with generic Taiwan made cylinders, cranks, MultiVar clones, and other tuning parts. The main thing to avoid is the cheapest Chinese stuff. Some of it is OK, but some of it is awful.
Thanks
Use denatured ethanol (red spirits) to clean CVT parts, it's cheap and leaves no residue at all.
Thanks buddy. :)
Do you know if that over range torque driver would fit in a peugeot speedfight?
I don't know anything about that scoot, but if it's a Hi-Per2 engine I'd think it should be able to fit. Not sure if you'd need any clearance work.
What rpm does the purple spring needs to compres and is it better than the red and can you tell me what's a good set up for 70cc jog whit stock cvt just springs and rolers I need it for stunts and sport
I don't know what RPM rating it would be. Malossi calls it +82%.
I've never seen the need for very stiff contra springs in most setups and generally stick with 1000RPM or the lower range of stiffness in aftermarket springs. If you want more revs, just try lighter weights. I'm not a stunt guy, but I've seen enough people stunting stock 4Ts with no power to know that the setup isn't everything there. Some people say they don't like anything aggressive because it's harder to control. Personally, I only do power wheelies so I rely on a lot of power and a clutch setup that snaps in hard. I have a video all about the Stage6 Torque Control clutch setup that I use. th-cam.com/video/dV2qgdgmwkM/w-d-xo.html
@49ccScoot thanks I will watch it and one think a dude told me that the stiffer spring means better take off and softer means better top speed and yea it needs skills too and some balls to do it but the bike dosent have the 4t pull that they have in power band it just dosent want to go up the only way is to do at dead stop and pull it up and then it will do it ok
@@preslavnikolov923 A better way to think of it may be; stiffer = higher RPM and softer = lower RPM. Too soft or too stiff is not good. For most stuff that's not incredibly powerful, stock to 1000RPM/soft aftermarket will do fine. Adjust RPM from there with rollers/sliders.
what diffrence does it make if you put wights in the clutch does it accelerate better??
It can change how much it grabs or slips for fine tuning the takeoff.
@@49ccscoot i have stage 6 mk2 racing cylinder and mhr team 2 variator stage 6 rear pulley and stage 6 mk2 clutch with red springs and no weights shloud i put all weights in it 😃
@@trekban4140 Depends how your setup works. If you think it slips too much at launch, add weights. Slip can be good if you have traction or wheelie issues.
@@49ccscoot okay thank you 😀
This is Steve I like to meet you in Ocean City this summer and take both of my gyc project bikes ones are road racing 90cc 52 mm and the other bike is a drag bike but I can still write it on the street I had the fatty tire kit on it and stretched it
Hey Steve. I like riding around there so maybe we can get together sometime. If nothing else, I'll be trying to go to Bikefest and Endless Summer Cruisin' in Sep/Oct.
I worry a bit about the clutch-not thread engagement count, if it's less than 3.
Looking good, otherwise.
Do you remember the mhr clutch nut socket size?
34mm
@@49ccscoot mahalo!
Hi Brent. Where can I buy those clutch shims? I have a GY6 157qmi 150cc and having the same issue. I need like 1mm thick shim
The ones for the bell are made by Malossi. The ones for the clutch itself I think people have said you can get from webike in Japan. I'd assume there must be more sources.
@@49ccscoot thx mate
thank you
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będzie materiał na jutro :)
Hello Brent, Im in trouble, i had an offer for a tpr 86cc kit but without a piston, in my country it's very expensive 4x the price I could by the bare cylinder used. Can you tell me the diameters of the piston, so I could ask if the malossi mhr team big bore 80cc 50mm piston would fit in the tpr kit. Or if you know by any chance if there's an alternative piston for the kit it would be awesome. Thank a lot!
I know RRD-Preperation sells an alternative, but I don't recall if the price was any better. Something to look into. The piston should be around 49.95mm for a standard replacement.
@@49ccscoot but i was thinking, if the piston height and other diameters are off by milimeters, the transfers wouldn't meet correctly. That's why I was asking about the piston height, and the distance from the pin to the top.
@@pepelazy3249 Yes, compression height needs to match closely. You may get away with overall piston height being a little different and the skirts could possibly be modified if they were a bit long. You just mentioned diameter, so that's what I gave you, but I can check one of my pistons and get back to you on total height and compression height.
Wrist Pin : 12mm
Compression Height : 24mm
Total Height From Skirt To Crown Edge : 47.25mm
Piston Ring Locator Location : Looking at the crown with the intake/boost side facing up (exhaust arrow down), the locator pin is at about 11 o'clock.
@@49ccscoot thanks a lot man! Do you think that the piston ring locator's place would matter? Im not from the usa but If I understood correctly that is the stop for the piston rings correct?
Are you going to be installing a new minarelli MVT DD?
Piaggio MVT. Next vid, whenever I can get it edited.
Why Tourqe The clutch nut just put an adjustable wrench on it and bang it against a Vise or somthing it will get as tight as you can get it
I just subcribed to your Channel and do you actually sell your parts on your website bud
Thanks! I don't sell anything but a little merch.
Brake cleaner definitely leaves a residue. Thats why you cant use it to clean before painting anything
Funny you mention sliders rule of thumb to add a gram is not exactly true I just switched to sliders and I’m almost down the OG weight with conventional rollers🇺🇸🛵
Some of the 4Ts do need about a gram more with sliders. From stock to OR, my 2T stuff has been pretty much interchangeable.