My light charring usually just brings out the grain and darkens the handle a small amount. 180 grit and boiled LO. I’m afraid to burn it more when it starts smoking and/or heat checking. I’d like to get one dark like your example
Yes. I sand to 220 grit before burning then a light sand after because the heat raises the grain. Then I apply the Danish oil or axe wax or boiled linseed oil.
That’s actually 100% incorrect. Flame conditioning has been used for centuries by native Americans to harden the surface and seal the wood from the environment and it does not weaken the handle. I primarily do it for esthetics but I’ve build hundreds of user axes even for Axe men who work for the national forest service with no issues.
@@David-kg1hc From a Study: "At temperatures above 150 °C, hydrolytic splitting and condensation reactions occur. Due to the partial decomposition of cell wall components, thermally modified wood (thermowood) has a lower density and strength than untreated wood. The durability of the wood usually increases with the applied heat and exposure time, while the strength of the wood decreases at the same time. "
@@dakillah6018 possibly if you really char it but what I did was to treat the exterior to darken it. The axe has been used extensively by an arborist and it’s been holding up great.
Thank you. I always torch dry them I do a light sand with 400 to knock down the grain then oil, wax or stain.
My light charring usually just brings out the grain and darkens the handle a small amount. 180 grit and boiled LO. I’m afraid to burn it more when it starts smoking and/or heat checking. I’d like to get one dark like your example
What do you do to raise the grain so that when you torch it only the grain darkens and not the whole portion under flame?
Lower heat, the grain pops without burning
Actually when burning ash the grain pops first and takes a lot of dwelling to darken the other areas. I use MAPP gas that burns at 5300 degrees.
With ash, the grain burns first. Hickory tends to burn more evenly.
Turned out nice. Did you have BLO on the handle before torching? Or raw wood and apply after torching?
No, I burn dry
Do you offer these services in your forge? I have an axe that could use a burning, thanks!
Hi Anthony, I’m just an axe builder. Yes, I can burn a handle for you. You can e-mail me through my website www.axerevival.com
Beautiful!! But how did it get so dark? Seemed alot lighter after the burn?
When he linseed oiled it it may have brought out the darker tones idk.
Used Boiled linseed oil & that darkened it.
how did you go from light char to blackened seemed to skip a few steps
Just by applying BLO it got darker
After the oil you sound a bit dissapointed in how dark it came out. Me too. Ive been right there in that spot. Live and learn.
Actually I was happy with the outcome
Did you sand it before flaming? Thanks!
yes, with 220 grit
Yes. I sand to 220 grit before burning then a light sand after because the heat raises the grain. Then I apply the Danish oil or axe wax or boiled linseed oil.
Can you get somewhat the same effect with a heat gun?
I haven’t tried it, but an average heat gun gets to about 1100 degrees and MAP gas burns at 5300 degrees so I doubt you get the same effect.
Did you use wood stain? If so what stain did you use?
Just boiled linseed oil
I believe this weekens the wood more then anything. Would not recomend on a axe you plan on using
That’s actually 100% incorrect. Flame conditioning has been used for centuries by native Americans to harden the surface and seal the wood from the environment and it does not weaken the handle. I primarily do it for esthetics but I’ve build hundreds of user axes even for Axe men who work for the national forest service with no issues.
@@vintageaxerevival3274 really? Thats good to know thanks
@@David-kg1hc From a Study:
"At temperatures above 150 °C, hydrolytic splitting and condensation reactions occur. Due to the partial decomposition of cell wall components, thermally modified wood (thermowood) has a lower density and strength than untreated wood. The durability of the wood usually increases with the applied heat and exposure time, while the strength of the wood decreases at the same time. "
@@dakillah6018 possibly if you really char it but what I did was to treat the exterior to darken it. The axe has been used extensively by an arborist and it’s been holding up great.
to my mind, this is just a waste of gas
As they say. The each their own! 👍
@@vintageaxerevival3274
true enough buddy - way too old to change my ways now ;