*A quiet **Generater.Systems** , love the dual fuel capabilities, camper is 50 amp but the adapter helps and found it still handles the load. Haven't taken a camping trip yet, that's in a couple of weeks. Will see how well it does over a long weekend.*
One very important thing that most peeps don’t do is adjust the elevation dial on the carburetor for wherever you are in the world as your camping. It’s a no brainer as there’s a black dial on the carb with numbers on it that go from 0-5000 Ft and some even go to 10000 Ft. Having the proper air fuel mixture is super important so the the generator runs at optimal efficiency. 👍🏼
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Hi Chad and Tara! I am a grown woman and I have never done any kind of engine repair until today. I changed my generator oil and your class was as good as if you were beside me coaching me through the process. Thanks for the thorough explanations, great tips and most of all thanks for the confidence you gave me to attempt this task. I am so proud and thankful to you! I am hopping right over to your Patreon to thank you properly with a little $$
Nice service job! Video mark 20:15 - Those "crimps" are called "Oetiker" clamps. Best thing to do is buy some Oetiker clamps and the crimper tool (not too expensive at all, and you can use Oetikers on Pex water lines as well). Second best thing is, get some OEM spring hose clamps, they are called: "Band Constant Tension" clamps. A lot of people mistakingly throw these away and use "worm gear" clamps which are the one thing you must avoid (engine vibration causes them to loosen). Cheers Friendo!
Regarding the exhaust fumes... I bought a Gen-Turi exhaust extension kit that runs the fumes up a stack.....and that stopped any issues with exhaust coming into my rv. Liked this video.....very helpful!
We ended up getting one of those, too. Depending on the wind direction (or just today's "luck level") we were having issues with the exhaust blowing back in and tripping the detector. Not much scarier than when that thing goes off!
Hey Chad. Every rv should have a co detector. I was using a generator in the winter during a power outage. The co got inside. The alarm woke me. I opened the door and aired the rv out. The co detector saved our lives.
EXCELLENT VIDEO!! Wish I had seen it before my Madian boondocking voyage to Sturgis, SD. Bought a new 26-foot toy Hauler with a 4000-watt generator in January. One month after buying it, I took it to Yuma AZ as a place to stay while doing a travel Respiratory assignment at Yuma Regional Medical Center. Staying at an RV park with full hookups I had no problems for the 6 months I was there. I left for Sturgis where I dry camped for 2 weeks and had NOTHING but problems. Battery was dead (even though hooked directly to power at the previous RV site), so couldn't start generator to run AC. The microwave kept arching inside like I left a spoon in it and none of the outlets would work. I called the place I bought it from for over the phone help (very poor customer service) , and they told me to "Bring it in"(?). The poor service girl immediately got F Bombed for which I was sent directly to the service managers Voice Mail. Long story short(er), the walk thru I got was poor and rushed. Not all service manuals were given to me, and I did not take the time to learn for myself what I needed to know before I go! Going to take the RV online course you took.
The owners manual, most people will throw out with the box it comes in, is such a useful source of info on maintenance schedules. If people find themselves in that situation they can usually find some info online, but not always. Good tip to keep and read the manual. Helpful video, good job.
Recent subscriber and I like the few videos I've watched so far! However, PLEASE fill your filter prior to putting it on! The filter provides the oil to the entire system and filling the motor from the fill hole and then starting it and letting it run to get more oil in is starving every moving component of oil until the filter gets full. Interestingly enough, you'll find that if you fill your filter with oil and let it sit for 5-10 minutes, it'll hold even more oil as it soaks in. I generally fill mine up several times prior to spinning it on and then putting in the required amount of oil in the fill. Start, check for leaks, and go on down the road. Well done and good info!
You are just like my husband except 1,000,000 times more patient!! Thanks again for another great, informational video! I feel like I can do this alone if I absolutely had to!!! Excellent editing, Tara!!! xoxo to you both!
About the spark plug, try a standard plug socket. They have a hex head on the top so you could use an open end or a box end wrench to turn the socket. If the box end will go over the socket, use a ratcheting box end. Use a wire gapping tool, not a flat feeler gauge.
Tricky is an understatement it was miserable to get to the spark plug on the right out and then a new one back in. I had to use one a socket wrench universal joint and it was a bear of a job. I wish they could have figured out a better way to get access to it!
Amen to that. Designed by an engineer with a poor sense of humor. I found a really small articulating ratchet that just barely fit. Found it at harbor freight. That spark plug took 50% of the total maintenance time. Next time might be slightly easier.
Using a hole saw, drill a 1" hole thru the housing, after changing the plug, you can get a 1" plastic plug/cap from true value, everything looks factory and makes changing the plug a breeze
It's really simple if you do it while your doing the other maintenance 👍 You are supposed to adjust the valves at the same schedule 📅 So with the Valve Cover removed the spark plug is very simple to change 👌
Morning Chad. Some tips as requested. One always fill a new oil filter that goes on upright saves that couple of seconds engine is running dry. Second for spark plug get a socket with built on swivel they work in tighter places then add on swivel. Add install new plug with piece of fuel line or old plug boot with fingers first. Do not want to cross thread that baby. Awesome as always to watch
1. The longer the engine hasn't been run, the longer you need to hold the primer, even up to 30 seconds. It will prolong the life of your starter. 2. The oil looked very dirty on the dip stick. Just because it says to change at 150 hours doesn't mean you need to wait that long. Read the footnotes. I would cut that time in half, at least. 3. You should fill the filter with new oil before installing it. This makes for a much shorter time that the engine runs with no oil pressure and you should have to recheck the oil level only one time by doing so. 4. Do NOT use worn drive hose clamps on fuel systems. They are very poor at sealing and an air leak in the fuel system and air leaks can be devastating to the engine. A spring compression type is far superior. You noticed the factory didn't use a worm drive.
@@wolfie26 if the carburetor is in good working order, no t really, there shouldn't be a need to prime for more than 60 seconds anyway. You can hear the fuel pump quiet down when it gets fuel( in the case of running out of fuel), prime for about 30 seconds after that and you should be good.
Excellent video. My Auto Gen has settings I can change. It includes 1. Insufficient shore power on or off, 2. Voltage and 3. HVAC on or off. Each can be turned on or off. The voltage can be adjusted but I don’t go below 12.0 because my EMS will start giving alerts at 12.0 volts.
I am so glad you mentioned to check to make sure the o ring came with the old filter. My Dad told me to always check for that. Never had an issue with the o ring sticking when changing the filter until one time changing oil on my truck. Wouldn't you know it, the o ring stayed on the engine block. Saved me a lot of money by checking the old filter.
What you called a crimp on your fuel line. Is just another form of clamp. They are reusable. No need for a worm clamp. 2 prongs one side and 1 on the other. Pair of pliers and squeeze together and slide back off the nipple. They do make a special pliers with a notch in them for the prongs. But regular pliers do fine. Your spark plug issue. Attack it from the other side of the vertical metal pipe right there with a shorty socket extension.
Yes I had the same question as Ric. I always fill the filter also. Helps with oil circulation right away you dont have to wait for filter to fill , just a thought. Great vid
We don't have a built-in generator but I still found your tips very helpful. For instance, exercise your generator monthly UNDER LOAD. I routinely run my 2 portable generators here at home but have never applied a load. I have a few electric heaters that I will be using in the future. So glad I found your channel.
I changed my fuel filter at 175 hours, because it was acting like bad fuel. I discovered the crimped on fuel line as well. I bought a screw clamp to replace it. Good video.
For the plug on the right I use a standard spark plug socket like you had w/ a step down adapter from 3/8 - 1/4 for a 1/4 flex ratchet (positioned on the right side of the recirc. tube) which will allow for clearance. You also may need a stubby extension. I also don't lock the detent ball into the socket, just until the square shape seats. Just makes separating easier once the plug comes loose.
I got it off & on with a small 1/4" ratchet & a universal joint attached. But the best way is to buy the Gasket for that OHV 4- bolt cover which just contains/covers the valves and gives you full access to the spark plug.
Great vid, Chad. As always, you’re dependable to refer to when needing help or how-to info regarding RV maintenance. This is literally the first in depth tutorial I’ve seen on an RV generator. Very useful and helpful info to remember. Thanks for taking the time to teach the basics. The only negative thing I can say about the video is… where’s blondie? 😜 Dude, you know we need our Tara Time. Two weeks is a long time without consistent smiles and laughs! 😉 Hope you’re doing well, kiddo. Thanks again, Chad. Troy
Great video Chad. Tell Tara we missed that sweet face of hers. I'm glad you mentioned that you were still working on the solar video. When I saw the part with you up on the roof and all of those solar panels I literally went; oh my gosh, when did they do that. I figured I missed a video and had plans of going to look for it after watching this one. That is truly really awesome. Can't wait to see the solar vid. You have become my go to for knowing how to and when. Stay cool and safe out there guy's. Give Daisy a hug for me.
Hey Chad, another great video. I joined the Army as a 52D Generator mechanic. granted this was back in 1977, they haven't changed that much. you laid out all the fundamentals very nicely. I noticed "Trust me" hit on a few spots that I was going to mention, like adding the oil to the oil filter prior to installing. and the hose clamp looked the same as we use on our pex pipes. thank you "trust me". just a couple things, first up, last I checked it was free to give your used oil to O'Reilly (Southern California) good to know in other states they charge. next up, for your spark plug, like you said, an open end short wrench might work, use 3/8" drive ratchet and extension, they make sparkplug sockets with a wobbly and extension all as one piece that might also work. and to make it easier, replace the plugs on a cold engine and be careful not to over tighten (unless the manual says differently.), use torq. specs if possible. you do not want to strip the aluminum head. you are extremely detailed, awesome. when it comes to equipment, I think that is extremely important. by the way, it is good practice to open a new quart of oil and use it to lubricate the filter sealing ring. good luck, best of health and safe travels.
I got the left one out with a short extension. The right one I had to use a medium extension and a short extension so I had some wiggle room - I did not have a swivel. They were both pretty easy.
Your mud dauber check reminded me of a "True Crime" story that happened to two F-18 squadrons in Florida. They were having problems with the pitot tubes on one side of the aircraft being plugged with mud every morning. They couldn't figure out who was doing it, they set watches, etc, but nothing. Turns out, after a thorough investigation, there were mud daubers making nests in the pitot tubes. It took them a while to figure out that it was only happening on the side of the aircraft that was parked towards the wetlands. It gave everybody at NAS Norfolk, where I was stationed, a huge laugh and when I was on my 2nd cruise with those two F-18 squadrons, AIMD seemed to never forget to remind them to check for dauber nests.
One tip you may or may not have forgot to mention is, gas in the carburetor. Believe It or not gas actually deteriorates the parts in the carburetor. So you should drain your carburetor if you're going to run the generator less than once every week or two.
Thank y'all for putting this video together. I was just getting ready to embark on this process, and now I feel SO much more comfortable attempting it. Thanks for all the videos you make like this that really simplify things. Hope we get to meet y'all at the GDRV rally.
Next time fill your filter with oil before installing. Not only till it allow you to add more oil initially it will speed up filling process and that 1/2 quart will already be in engine.
I’ve been watching your videos for a few years. Your videos were my main inspiration to finally buy my first rv. ‘22 Grand design 398m. Thanks for the great content
Very informative, Thanks. Also, find a recycle facility for your oil and some trash such as aluminum, cardboard, etc., its free. For trash a minimum fee is usually charged and is around $ 8.00 for a couple of bags. Where I live we have several places that accept both. We also have recycle places that will pay you for it such as batteries, refrigerators, aluminum, copper, steel, etc.. I had 300 ft. of chain link face replaced, cleaned off the concrete on the post with a hammer and got $78.00 for it at the junkyard. Way better then having to pay to have it gone.
That sparkplug is a PITA and I'd like to talk to the engineer that said that was okay. I use a socket with a 3" extension then a 3/8 swivel and a 6" extension to the ratchet. It's still not fun. One of these days I might swing by cummins and see what they do.
BTW...as usual the videos you both put out there are just great! (Hopefully we will see you both live out on the roads somewhere).... SUGGESTION, because I run into this all the time doing all of my own Car, Truck, MC, and RV maintenance. Those 12oz red plastic cups (lets call them "beer cups") are GREAT for once you loosen the filter, now slide the cup over the filter and squeeze in the sides to grab and turn. All the dribbles get into the cup plus the filter is there once loosened. And as YOU would say BOOM, done deal! Enjoy and keep the vids coming!
I started with a carburetor evap model. The evap model runs hotter for emissions standards. The float in the carb kept cracking. The dealer swapped it out to the EFI model, that was much more reliable. We also built a wind baffle/scoop to direct the discharged hot air away from the intake. This is important because the air used to cool the engine comes in and out the bottom of the generator.
Take off the valve cover and the spark plug will be very easy to change. I used a 1/4 drive 10 mill socket with a small ratchet for the top right bolt. You will have to pry over that air tub or whatever it is' with a long pry tool up against the valve cover to get the socket on the bolt. It is not Very hard to dol. The end of the plug will right there easy to get at. I also get 2 gaskets for covers and adjust the valves also' while I'm doing the plugs.
Chad, if you get a little piece of brass or copper tubing and put in it the rubber outlet hose your problem with it hitting the frame will be solved. Heck I'll even send you a piece if you need it I just had to buy a foot of 3/8 when I needed 8 inches. One more hint, buy a dollar store shower curtain to cover the ground or pavement. As far as the fuel line goes I prefer spring clamps to worm clamps, they don't chew up the hose and when the hose shrinks, and it will after a while, they hold tension. Fortunately I have a diesel gennie so not spark plug. Good video guys, and yes you too Tara I know you do the editing and music. Keep the good stuff coming.
Excellent video enjoyed it. The only thing I would personally do is be in the oil filter is vertically mounted I would prime it with oil first that may alleviate some of the running, and re-checking, and Adding at the end
We are so Grateful for you sharing everything about the maintenance and personal fun experiences! Thank you both, Tara & Chad. You are invited to moochcamp at our home in Southern Utah, St. George area at a higher elevation, cooler.
GREAT video Chad! Something came to mind while watching your video, how many new owners of a used RV check the maintenance (oil, filter, and spark plugs) on the installed generator? New RV owners are excited about their (new to them) RV and don’t take the time to read or find the owners manual. A reminder on all your videos to suggest used RV owner find and read to understand how things work and very important maintenance schedules. Keep up the outstanding how to videos.
Obviously 2 years ago but you pull the air cleaner box of first then pull off the valve covers then you can check and adjust the valve clearance and you will have more room to clean or change the plugs
The big thing I see a lot is that people saw my Gen starts and shuts off and all you have todo is add oil to the motor and will run like. A lot of motors have a oil level sensor so it could be a teaspoon low of oil so just some oil in and your good .
Great vid.. just one more tip from an old engine builder. Next time you might want to think about semi filling your new filter before installing it. I usually fill the filter to a little more then 3/4 full. This is to insure that on start up you get oil flow sooner on start up. It will take the oil pump a little while to fill that filter before it starts pumping oil through the oil system. By filling the filter you cut down on this time so oil is resupplied quicker. Does it really make that much differnce? Heck I dont know, but I do like the thought atleast of oil getting into the system faster. Thanks for the vid.
For your hard to get to spark plug, use 3/8 drive swivel and extension. You had it right put socket on first, then swivel, extension. Ect. Look luck , safe travels.
Excellent video. We are so thankful for you two being so generous with your experience and time!! Your videos are so helpful, teach us, and save us so much strife figuring it out on our own. Chad's mind thinks like I do, though he is more of an engineer personality and I'm more of a business numbers gal. I can relate to him very well because of his thoroughness. He is by far very much the expert! Love you too, Tara, you have a wonderful, warm heart. You two are genuine folks and make a great couple!
I’m in the market to buy right now. The cost is obviously up substantially right now, but the dealer is not even selling the rv with the generators any more. And still charging top dollar
👍 Bravo. Run those generators under load. A heavy load (75%) so, disconnect from shore power & fire up the HVAC while baking a cake in the convection microwave and give the generator a good workout. Or, for them that may, turn on the HVAC while ”On The Road Again”. Heyyy.... 🤔 ya know, that sounded like there might be a song in there..... "running the generator with my friends". 🤭 Well done Chad.
Thank you Chad for this video. You are good abs being a handy man. Glad you knew how to change the oil and oil filter. Thank you for showing this video. Hope you had a great Father’s Day! Have a great night and see you and Tara and Daisy soon! It’s been 117 here in Vegas and now it’s going to be a little cooler like 103. And then 90. Then it will go back up.
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen (it won't start if low oil becouse of sensores), gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety censors), sparkplug checked for good spark, check the manual circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the gen to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed by rats so I replaced them, by this time it started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so I knew it was electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, ( I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one unit) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and bingo it's runing like a champion. For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover becouse you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen then put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at your RV. Once the gen it's installed back at your motorhome or RV start your gen to be tested for electric power but don't forget to flip the electric switch (on) at the gen electric panel (sometimes hiding under or around the electric controls) to transfer power to your RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, if your it's equipped with GFCI reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at you main breakers panel, flip your main switch (on) along the others ones at this moment if you still don't have power then it's a faulty main braker, flipping it many time sometimes make it work again, mine did it, lol!!! If yours didn't buy a new main breaker. If this can help eaven one person save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
FYI disconnecting the negative does not disable the gen. Gen is still grounded through the mounting hardware. Always disconnect the positive lead. Great video!!!!
Hi Chad Watch you and Tara a lot Love your instructional Videos. You and RV Street have the best RV "How To" Videos in my opinion. Anyway one suggestion I have for removing the one plug that might work is a U-joint Socket adaptor with the socket , ratchet and maybe a small extension. Anyway Thanks for the great Video and hope to see you out there on the road some time
When you change the oil before installing the new oil filter if you fill the oil filter up with oil than install it. It's better for the motor (easer on the motor) also it will make adding the oil easier and faster so you don't have to start and stop the motor so mane times.
We took vale cap off and put new rubber seal on. We also have a pipe for ventilation to the top of the roof. It sites up 5 feet above the roof and works great.no smell in the Rv even with wind or rain comes in to play?
We have the QD8000. I find it useful to put a maintenance grid on the top panel with a sharpie. I note what was done, the hours and who did it right on the generator. I also note the interval for each column.
Since we generally start our generator from inside (as do most folks, I would guess, that have these types), we have a sticky note inside the cabinet door with that info. Date and Hours when we last changed it. Just came here to watch this video, again, as a refresher before changing our oil again in a few minutes. Great to have a "reference tool" like this video available!
Have you tried to fill the new filter with new oil before you install since it is vertical and that will allow you to get the desired oil level in easier.
Suggest electrical tape over the disconnected negative lead. That mitigates the risk of inadvertent contact with chassis ground when working on the genny. Also, the reason to run it under electrical load is because the field magnets can become demagnetized unless they are used periodically. Same applies to any generator.
Put Amsoil small air cooled engines oil ,is the best for your Oman and make you Gen last twice. And my Oman would start and run for 5 minutes and die which is the low oil shut off and the best way to try first I dump some marvel Mystery oil in your motor and pour enough to fill a little from the top and start and let run and if it shuts off just start again and once the mystery oil works it way to the sensor it will run like a champ my 05 Oman runs like a dream and you can put a little in at each oil change to prevent it from fouling again . Good luck !!
*A quiet **Generater.Systems** , love the dual fuel capabilities, camper is 50 amp but the adapter helps and found it still handles the load. Haven't taken a camping trip yet, that's in a couple of weeks. Will see how well it does over a long weekend.*
One very important thing that most peeps don’t do is adjust the elevation dial on the carburetor for wherever you are in the world as your camping. It’s a no brainer as there’s a black dial on the carb with numbers on it that go from 0-5000 Ft and some even go to 10000 Ft. Having the proper air fuel mixture is super important so the the generator runs at optimal efficiency. 👍🏼
This guy is one of only a few I watch...he is very understandable...
I always fill the new filter with fresh oil !
I do the same. Super easy when they are vertical like that one is. Its nice to not have any dry start.
Always put some new oil in it. Always new oil on the gasket, too many contaminants, and the oil has lost most of its viscosity.
A word of caution, any oil being put into the filtered side of the filter whe. Prefilled is not filtered
@@glennrobichaux7490 That's not really a concern with fresh oil from a clean container.
Good tip! Not sure it really matters a whole lot, but it can't hurt.
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Hi Chad and Tara! I am a grown woman and I have never done any kind of engine repair until today. I changed my generator oil and your class was as good as if you were beside me coaching me through the process. Thanks for the thorough explanations, great tips and most of all thanks for the confidence you gave me to attempt this task. I am so proud and thankful to you! I am hopping right over to your Patreon to thank you properly with a little $$
Great job! That's awesome! 😊 - I know this is 2 months old, but popped into my members feed..😊. Thanks for joining!
I don’t even have a generator and I find this fascinating. Thanks for the lesson!
89 hours!! I didn't even know about the break in oil in the generator at 50 hours! Thank you! Changing mine now!
Nice service job! Video mark 20:15 - Those "crimps" are called "Oetiker" clamps. Best thing to do is buy some Oetiker clamps and the crimper tool (not too expensive at all, and you can use Oetikers on Pex water lines as well). Second best thing is, get some OEM spring hose clamps, they are called: "Band Constant Tension" clamps. A lot of people mistakingly throw these away and use "worm gear" clamps which are the one thing you must avoid (engine vibration causes them to loosen). Cheers Friendo!
Regarding the exhaust fumes... I bought a Gen-Turi exhaust extension kit that runs the fumes up a stack.....and that stopped any issues with exhaust coming into my rv. Liked this video.....very helpful!
Great tip!
I like the idea of running the exhaust up a stack. Will look into gen- turi
We ended up getting one of those, too. Depending on the wind direction (or just today's "luck level") we were having issues with the exhaust blowing back in and tripping the detector. Not much scarier than when that thing goes off!
Another good video. First time i changed fuel filter I added an inline shutoff. Easier than trying to crimp line to stop fuel flow.
I did too. Works great. I don't use worm gear clamps for fuel lines. I crimp mine.
Great tip!
Hey Chad. Every rv should have a co detector. I was using a generator in the winter during a power outage. The co got inside. The alarm woke me. I opened the door and aired the rv out. The co detector saved our lives.
Ours went off in the middle of the night too... it just went bad. Had to cut the wires to it to shut it off.
EXCELLENT VIDEO!! Wish I had seen it before my Madian boondocking voyage to Sturgis, SD. Bought a new 26-foot toy Hauler with a 4000-watt generator in January. One month after buying it, I took it to Yuma AZ as a place to stay while doing a travel Respiratory assignment at Yuma Regional Medical Center. Staying at an RV park with full hookups I had no problems for the 6 months I was there. I left for Sturgis where I dry camped for 2 weeks and had NOTHING but problems. Battery was dead (even though hooked directly to power at the previous RV site), so couldn't start generator to run AC. The microwave kept arching inside like I left a spoon in it and none of the outlets would work. I called the place I bought it from for over the phone help (very poor customer service) , and they told me to "Bring it in"(?). The poor service girl immediately got F Bombed for which I was sent directly to the service managers Voice Mail. Long story short(er), the walk thru I got was poor and rushed. Not all service manuals were given to me, and I did not take the time to learn for myself what I needed to know before I go! Going to take the RV online course you took.
I have the same generator and have found that if i fill the new filter with oil before installing it makes it easier to fill.
big fan of your videos.
You can knock small hole in your oil filter with a nail to allow it to drain before removing. That keep it from pouring down your arm when removing.
We are full time in a C-Class and Tammy and I watch your Chanel all the time !
when you disconnect the negative ground wire it is a good idea to take off any ring or watches off so that you don't ground yourself to anything also
Happy Father's day from the Glendenning family Kitchener Ontario Canada 🇨🇦.
The owners manual, most people will throw out with the box it comes in, is such a useful source of info on maintenance schedules. If people find themselves in that situation they can usually find some info online, but not always. Good tip to keep and read the manual. Helpful video, good job.
Recent subscriber and I like the few videos I've watched so far! However, PLEASE fill your filter prior to putting it on! The filter provides the oil to the entire system and filling the motor from the fill hole and then starting it and letting it run to get more oil in is starving every moving component of oil until the filter gets full. Interestingly enough, you'll find that if you fill your filter with oil and let it sit for 5-10 minutes, it'll hold even more oil as it soaks in. I generally fill mine up several times prior to spinning it on and then putting in the required amount of oil in the fill. Start, check for leaks, and go on down the road. Well done and good info!
Good tip and welcome to our channel! 👍🏼
You are just like my husband except 1,000,000 times more patient!! Thanks again for another great, informational video! I feel like I can do this alone if I absolutely had to!!! Excellent editing, Tara!!! xoxo to you both!
About the spark plug, try a standard plug socket. They have a hex head on the top so you could use an open end or a box end wrench to turn the socket. If the box end will go over the socket, use a ratcheting box end. Use a wire gapping tool, not a flat feeler gauge.
Tricky is an understatement it was miserable to get to the spark plug on the right out and then a new one back in. I had to use one a socket wrench universal joint and it was a bear of a job. I wish they could have figured out a better way to get access to it!
Amen to that. Designed by an engineer with a poor sense of humor. I found a really small articulating ratchet that just barely fit. Found it at harbor freight. That spark plug took 50% of the total maintenance time. Next time might be slightly easier.
@@WesTaylorPhotography Designed by an engineer that doesn't have to maintain one of these.
Using a hole saw, drill a 1" hole thru the housing, after changing the plug, you can get a 1" plastic plug/cap from true value, everything looks factory and makes changing the plug a breeze
It's really simple if you do it while your doing the other maintenance 👍
You are supposed to adjust the valves at the same schedule 📅
So with the Valve Cover removed the spark plug is very simple to change 👌
Morning Chad. Some tips as requested. One always fill a new oil filter that goes on upright saves that couple of seconds engine is running dry. Second for spark plug get a socket with built on swivel they work in tighter places then add on swivel. Add install new plug with piece of fuel line or old plug boot with fingers first. Do not want to cross thread that baby. Awesome as always to watch
Chad I realize this video is dated however, It was nice to see an oil wrench WORK! As usual Great stuff.
Great video! The wife and I are about to purchase a Momentum 399 so I now know how to maintenance our future generator.
Great minds think alike, 399th is the finest and most practical. We are right behind you all.
1. The longer the engine hasn't been run, the longer you need to hold the primer, even up to 30 seconds. It will prolong the life of your starter.
2. The oil looked very dirty on the dip stick. Just because it says to change at 150 hours doesn't mean you need to wait that long. Read the footnotes. I would cut that time in half, at least.
3. You should fill the filter with new oil before installing it. This makes for a much shorter time that the engine runs with no oil pressure and you should have to recheck the oil level only one time by doing so.
4. Do NOT use worn drive hose clamps on fuel systems. They are very poor at sealing and an air leak in the fuel system and air leaks can be devastating to the engine. A spring compression type is far superior. You noticed the factory didn't use a worm drive.
Can you over prime it?
@@wolfie26 if the carburetor is in good working order, no t really, there shouldn't be a need to prime for more than 60 seconds anyway. You can hear the fuel pump quiet down when it gets fuel( in the case of running out of fuel), prime for about 30 seconds after that and you should be good.
@@wolfie26 No. When the carb float bowl is full the needle and seat shuts off the fuel flow into the bowl.
Good job Chad, well made. Good job with the editing Tara. There was only one thing missing in this video, and it was from Chad…. No Boom…..
Excellent video.
My Auto Gen has settings I can change. It includes 1. Insufficient shore power on or off, 2. Voltage and 3. HVAC on or off. Each can be turned on or off. The voltage can be adjusted but I don’t go below 12.0 because my EMS will start giving alerts at 12.0 volts.
I am so glad you mentioned to check to make sure the o ring came with the old filter. My Dad told me to always check for that. Never had an issue with the o ring sticking when changing the filter until one time changing oil on my truck. Wouldn't you know it, the o ring stayed on the engine block. Saved me a lot of money by checking the old filter.
What you called a crimp on your fuel line. Is just another form of clamp. They are reusable. No need for a worm clamp. 2 prongs one side and 1 on the other. Pair of pliers and squeeze together and slide back off the nipple. They do make a special pliers with a notch in them for the prongs. But regular pliers do fine. Your spark plug issue. Attack it from the other side of the vertical metal pipe right there with a shorty socket extension.
Yes I had the same question as Ric. I always fill the filter also. Helps with oil circulation right away you dont have to wait for filter to fill , just a thought. Great vid
Great video Chad. Try putting a short piece of rubber hose onto the oil drain hose . That helped me when draining to get it past that metal brace.
We don't have a built-in generator but I still found your tips very helpful. For instance, exercise your generator monthly UNDER LOAD. I routinely run my 2 portable generators here at home but have never applied a load. I have a few electric heaters that I will be using in the future. So glad I found your channel.
I changed my fuel filter at 175 hours, because it was acting like bad fuel. I discovered the crimped on fuel line as well. I bought a screw clamp to replace it. Good video.
For the plug on the right I use a standard spark plug socket like you had w/ a step down adapter from 3/8 - 1/4 for a 1/4 flex ratchet (positioned on the right side of the recirc. tube) which will allow for clearance. You also may need a stubby extension. I also don't lock the detent ball into the socket, just until the square shape seats. Just makes separating easier once the plug comes loose.
I got it off & on with a small 1/4" ratchet & a universal joint attached. But the best way is to buy the Gasket for that OHV 4- bolt cover which just contains/covers the valves and gives you full access to the spark plug.
Great vid, Chad. As always, you’re dependable to refer to when needing help or how-to info regarding RV maintenance. This is literally the first in depth tutorial I’ve seen on an RV generator. Very useful and helpful info to remember. Thanks for taking the time to teach the basics. The only negative thing I can say about the video is… where’s blondie? 😜 Dude, you know we need our Tara Time. Two weeks is a long time without consistent smiles and laughs! 😉 Hope you’re doing well, kiddo. Thanks again, Chad. Troy
Great video Chad. Tell Tara we missed that sweet face of hers. I'm glad you mentioned that you were still working on the solar video. When I saw the part with you up on the roof and all of those solar panels I literally went; oh my gosh, when did they do that. I figured I missed a video and had plans of going to look for it after watching this one. That is truly really awesome. Can't wait to see the solar vid. You have become my go to for knowing how to and when. Stay cool and safe out there guy's. Give Daisy a hug for me.
Same here…
Hey Chad, another great video. I joined the Army as a 52D Generator mechanic. granted this was back in 1977, they haven't changed that much. you laid out all the fundamentals very nicely. I noticed "Trust me" hit on a few spots that I was going to mention, like adding the oil to the oil filter prior to installing. and the hose clamp looked the same as we use on our pex pipes. thank you "trust me". just a couple things, first up, last I checked it was free to give your used oil to O'Reilly (Southern California) good to know in other states they charge. next up, for your spark plug, like you said, an open end short wrench might work, use 3/8" drive ratchet and extension, they make sparkplug sockets with a wobbly and extension all as one piece that might also work. and to make it easier, replace the plugs on a cold engine and be careful not to over tighten (unless the manual says differently.), use torq. specs if possible. you do not want to strip the aluminum head. you are extremely detailed, awesome. when it comes to equipment, I think that is extremely important. by the way, it is good practice to open a new quart of oil and use it to lubricate the filter sealing ring. good luck, best of health and safe travels.
I got the left one out with a short extension. The right one I had to use a medium extension and a short extension so I had some wiggle room - I did not have a swivel.
They were both pretty easy.
Your mud dauber check reminded me of a "True Crime" story that happened to two F-18 squadrons in Florida. They were having problems with the pitot tubes on one side of the aircraft being plugged with mud every morning. They couldn't figure out who was doing it, they set watches, etc, but nothing. Turns out, after a thorough investigation, there were mud daubers making nests in the pitot tubes. It took them a while to figure out that it was only happening on the side of the aircraft that was parked towards the wetlands. It gave everybody at NAS Norfolk, where I was stationed, a huge laugh and when I was on my 2nd cruise with those two F-18 squadrons, AIMD seemed to never forget to remind them to check for dauber nests.
One tip you may or may not have forgot to mention is, gas in the carburetor. Believe It or not gas actually deteriorates the parts in the carburetor. So you should drain your carburetor if you're going to run the generator less than once every week or two.
So true. I've had a number of small engine carbs fail due to gas sitting, even with Stabil used.
Thank y'all for putting this video together. I was just getting ready to embark on this process, and now I feel SO much more comfortable attempting it. Thanks for all the videos you make like this that really simplify things. Hope we get to meet y'all at the GDRV rally.
My Class C generator looks the same but does not have an oil filter. If you can't find one don't panic some Onan Models font's have a filter.
Next time fill your filter with oil before installing. Not only till it allow you to add more oil initially it will speed up filling process and that 1/2 quart will already be in engine.
Fill your oil filter before you put it on, that'll take care of some of the fill at the end.
I’ve been watching your videos for a few years. Your videos were my main inspiration to finally buy my first rv. ‘22 Grand design 398m. Thanks for the great content
Very informative, Thanks. Also, find a recycle facility for your oil and some trash such as aluminum, cardboard, etc., its free. For trash a minimum fee is usually charged and is around $ 8.00 for a couple of bags. Where I live we have several places that accept both. We also have recycle places that will pay you for it such as batteries, refrigerators, aluminum, copper, steel, etc.. I had 300 ft. of chain link face replaced, cleaned off the concrete on the post with a hammer and got $78.00 for it at the junkyard. Way better then having to pay to have it gone.
Picking up our new RV next week with a generator. Thanks for the continued education!!!!
That sparkplug is a PITA and I'd like to talk to the engineer that said that was okay.
I use a socket with a 3" extension then a 3/8 swivel and a 6" extension to the ratchet. It's still not fun. One of these days I might swing by cummins and see what they do.
BTW...as usual the videos you both put out there are just great! (Hopefully we will see you both live out on the roads somewhere).... SUGGESTION, because I run into this all the time doing all of my own Car, Truck, MC, and RV maintenance. Those 12oz red plastic cups (lets call them "beer cups") are GREAT for once you loosen the filter, now slide the cup over the filter and squeeze in the sides to grab and turn. All the dribbles get into the cup plus the filter is there once loosened. And as YOU would say BOOM, done deal! Enjoy and keep the vids coming!
We stayed at a friend of yours home in Cross City FL . Roger Malone . A very nice guy !
Oh yea! Roger is a great guy!
I started with a carburetor evap model. The evap model runs hotter for emissions standards. The float in the carb kept cracking. The dealer swapped it out to the EFI model, that was much more reliable. We also built a wind baffle/scoop to direct the discharged hot air away from the intake. This is important because the air used to cool the engine comes in and out the bottom of the generator.
EFI likely does better at altitude also.. 👍🏼
Take off the valve cover and the spark plug will be very easy to change.
I used a 1/4 drive 10 mill socket with a small ratchet for the top right bolt. You will have to pry over that air tub or whatever it is' with a long pry tool up against the valve cover to get the socket on the bolt. It is not Very hard to dol. The end of the plug will right there easy to get at. I also get 2 gaskets for covers and adjust the valves also' while I'm doing the plugs.
Chad, if you get a little piece of brass or copper tubing and put in it the rubber outlet hose your problem with it hitting the frame will be solved. Heck I'll even send you a piece if you need it I just had to buy a foot of 3/8 when I needed 8 inches. One more hint, buy a dollar store shower curtain to cover the ground or pavement. As far as the fuel line goes I prefer spring clamps to worm clamps, they don't chew up the hose and when the hose shrinks, and it will after a while, they hold tension. Fortunately I have a diesel gennie so not spark plug. Good video guys, and yes you too Tara I know you do the editing and music. Keep the good stuff coming.
Excellent video enjoyed it. The only thing I would personally do is be in the oil filter is vertically mounted I would prime it with oil first that may alleviate some of the running, and re-checking, and Adding at the end
We are so Grateful for you sharing everything about the maintenance and personal fun experiences! Thank you both, Tara & Chad.
You are invited to moochcamp at our home in Southern Utah, St. George area at a higher elevation, cooler.
You are such a highly competent gear head. Your navy experience really stands you well. The strong maintenance ethos is great!
GREAT video Chad! Something came to mind while watching your video, how many new owners of a used RV check the maintenance (oil, filter, and spark plugs) on the installed generator? New RV owners are excited about their (new to them) RV and don’t take the time to read or find the owners manual. A reminder on all your videos to suggest used RV owner find and read to understand how things work and very important maintenance schedules. Keep up the outstanding how to videos.
Obviously 2 years ago but you pull the air cleaner box of first then pull off the valve covers then you can check and adjust the valve clearance and you will have more room to clean or change the plugs
The big thing I see a lot is that people saw my Gen starts and shuts off and all you have todo is add oil to the motor and will run like. A lot of motors have a oil level sensor so it could be a teaspoon low of oil so just some oil in and your good .
igen ez a fiu mart tobbet tud latszik az eloadasan gratulalok csak igy tovabb ez megint segitett ye ye ye youtube .
Another great video by awesome folks. Miss you guys.
Back at ya! We need to figure out a way to meet up this year! 😀
Great vid.. just one more tip from an old engine builder. Next time you might want to think about semi filling your new filter before installing it. I usually fill the filter to a little more then 3/4 full. This is to insure that on start up you get oil flow sooner on start up. It will take the oil pump a little while to fill that filter before it starts pumping oil through the oil system. By filling the filter you cut down on this time so oil is resupplied quicker. Does it really make that much differnce? Heck I dont know, but I do like the thought atleast of oil getting into the system faster. Thanks for the vid.
For your hard to get to spark plug, use 3/8 drive swivel and extension. You had it right put socket on first, then swivel, extension. Ect. Look luck , safe travels.
You just remove the valve cover first.
You need to adjust the valves at that schedule anyways 👍
Excellent video. We are so thankful for you two being so generous with your experience and time!! Your videos are so helpful, teach us, and save us so much strife figuring it out on our own. Chad's mind thinks like I do, though he is more of an engineer personality and I'm more of a business numbers gal. I can relate to him very well because of his thoroughness. He is by far very much the expert! Love you too, Tara, you have a wonderful, warm heart. You two are genuine folks and make a great couple!
I fill the oil filter with some oil so as soon as the engine starts it has oil
. Saw this tip on another channel
I’m in the market to buy right now. The cost is obviously up substantially right now, but the dealer is not even selling the rv with the generators any more. And still charging top dollar
cascading supply chain issues are affecting every industry, unfortunately... ☹️
Glad you mentioned the solar installation video is coming and looking forward to watching it.
Thank you for the video instructions. The spark plug,on right does look difficult to get to.😀
👍 Bravo. Run those generators under load. A heavy load (75%) so, disconnect from shore power & fire up the HVAC while baking a cake in the convection microwave and give the generator a good workout.
Or, for them that may, turn on the HVAC while ”On The Road Again”. Heyyy.... 🤔 ya know, that sounded like there might be a song in there..... "running the generator with my friends". 🤭
Well done Chad.
Thank you Chad for this video. You are good abs being a handy man. Glad you knew how to change the oil and oil filter. Thank you for showing this video. Hope you had a great Father’s Day! Have a great night and see you and Tara and Daisy soon! It’s been 117 here in Vegas and now it’s going to be a little cooler like 103. And then 90. Then it will go back up.
Used oil is awesome for dumping on the fire when camping!
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF....
"I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR"
It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen (it won't start if low oil becouse of sensores), gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety censors), sparkplug checked for good spark, check the manual circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the gen to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed by rats so I replaced them, by this time it started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so I knew it was electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, ( I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person.
I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one unit) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!!
Then I assembled everything back together and bingo it's runing like a champion.
For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel).
Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed.
Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover becouse you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!!
After testing the gen then put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at your RV.
Once the gen it's installed back at your motorhome or RV start your gen to be tested for electric power but don't forget to flip the electric switch (on) at the gen electric panel (sometimes hiding under or around the electric controls) to transfer power to your RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, if your it's equipped with GFCI reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at you main breakers panel, flip your main switch (on) along the others ones at this moment if you still don't have power then it's a faulty main braker, flipping it many time sometimes make it work again, mine did it, lol!!! If yours didn't buy a new main breaker.
If this can help eaven one person save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
A set of mechanic's pick tools can be a handy addition to the tool box
FYI disconnecting the negative does not disable the gen. Gen is still grounded through the mounting hardware. Always disconnect the positive lead. Great video!!!!
I thought positive too.. But, the manual says negative.
Very informative video! Thanks for the tips and adding the links! I just ordered all my filters.
use a short wobble extension for the difficult plug and you will be able to get your ratchet on it to break it loose and snug it up.
Great video, This will be really helpful when I have to do my generator's first Maintenance. thanks.
Great info but why didn't you prime the filter before you put it back on?
Hi Chad Watch you and Tara a lot Love your instructional Videos. You and RV Street have the best RV "How To" Videos in my opinion. Anyway one suggestion I have for removing the one plug that might work is a U-joint Socket adaptor with the socket , ratchet and maybe a small extension. Anyway Thanks for the great Video and hope to see you out there on the road some time
An awesome maintenance video!!! Hope to meet you guys on the road!
Good Stuff, guess this means I need to take another look at mine.
When you change the oil before installing the new oil filter if you fill the oil filter up with oil than install it. It's better for the motor (easer on the motor) also it will make adding the oil easier and faster so you don't have to start and stop the motor so mane times.
Great info on generators. I have an Onan 3500-4500 portable. I need to exercise under load which I haven’t done yet.
Don't forget to be mindful of your location's elevation and make the appropriate adjustments. It makes a difference as you travel north and west.
That tip will be coming up in our boondocking vid following solar.. 👍🏼
We took vale cap off and put new rubber seal on. We also have a pipe for ventilation to the top of the roof. It sites up 5 feet above the roof and works great.no smell in the Rv even with wind or rain comes in to play?
We have the QD8000. I find it useful to put a maintenance grid on the top panel with a sharpie. I note what was done, the hours and who did it right on the generator. I also note the interval for each column.
Great tip!
Since we generally start our generator from inside (as do most folks, I would guess, that have these types), we have a sticky note inside the cabinet door with that info. Date and Hours when we last changed it. Just came here to watch this video, again, as a refresher before changing our oil again in a few minutes. Great to have a "reference tool" like this video available!
Have you tried to fill the new filter with new oil before you install since it is vertical and that will allow you to get the desired oil level in easier.
Heads up if your generator fails to start after adding fresh oil recheck the oil level. A Onan engine is design not to start if the oil level is low.
Suggest electrical tape over the disconnected negative lead. That mitigates the risk of inadvertent contact with chassis ground when working on the genny.
Also, the reason to run it under electrical load is because the field magnets can become demagnetized unless they are used periodically. Same applies to any generator.
For the spark plug on left use a 3/8" swivel socket adapter
You just remove the Valve Cover first.
You need to adjust the valves at the same schedule anyways 👍
If anyone doubts your ExMilitary, just watch you do this maintenance !! 👍🏻😂❤️
Thank you Chad! Awesome training video!
As always you knocked it out of the park! Thank you for the time, effort, and energy it takes to educate us! 🖖🏻👍🏻🙏🏻😘
I need to replace my starter on my onan marquise 5500
Hey sorry I missed you guys on the light show
Our diesel generator is liquid cooled and another fluid level to check and change as per owners manual.
Put Amsoil small air cooled engines oil ,is the best for your Oman and make you Gen last twice. And my Oman would start and run for 5 minutes and die which is the low oil shut off and the best way to try first I dump some marvel Mystery oil in your motor and pour enough to fill a little from the top and start and let run and if it shuts off just start again and once the mystery oil works it way to the sensor it will run like a champ my 05 Oman runs like a dream and you can put a little in at each oil change to prevent it from fouling again . Good luck !!
Great education: consider teaching how to sanitize fresh water tank. & how often to do it?
Rosie, we cover that topic in the vlog here: changinglanesrv.com/rv-water-system-sanitization/