Great explanation. I can count how many times people have asked me how clutches work. Your visual aids are better than mine, of course your drawings are too.
+Pony Power Thank you for your response. I actually just got the bike for almost free. It has been sitting for a long time, and not running. I was able to get it to run by cleaning the carburetor. Have not tried to put it into gear while running because the clutch. I do not know much about its history other than its been sitting. The clutch lever that was on it was incorrect. I replaced it with oem parts and the cable is adjusted right to the best of my knowledge. I will report back with what I find today. I will also be changing the oil and filter a couple of times before riding it.
+jbbchinook 9/10 the clutch basket is worn of the tension and free play of the cable is incorrect. One other thing can be the thrust washer in the clutch is missing, check to see what state the gasket is in, you can usually tell if someone has been in there previously.
+jbbchinook some clutch designs don't have them, its a washer between the clutch basket and the input shaft bearing (behind the entire clutch. Check a service manual or parts breakdown from a parts site.
+Pony Power facebook.com/pony.power.395 this is my facebook page I have posted a picture where the thrust washer is - or go to this site www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1983-honda-xr350r/o/m9706#sch421963 - its number 19 on the drawing.
Great videos on the inner workings of all parts. Not so sure I'm comfortable tackling a gear box repair or crankshaft replace but certainly have a better understanding when a/my mechanic gets into technical jargon about repairs that my ride needs. Takes a lot of time and energy to put the videos together and just letting you know it's really appreciated!
One of the best and clearest explanations of the workings of a clutch I’ve ever seen...nice job Matt. New sub here: not a biker, but just interested in mechanicals and how things work. This channel is a gold seam.
Finally! Thank you so much. I’ve been trying to figure out what has been going on with my clutch. I've had my cruiser for years and I ride it hard. It started slipping several months ago. I tried changing the oil and friction plates, putting in Barnett Springs, and scuffing up the metal plates. No go. I notice that there was wearing on the clutch basket and clutch boss but didn’t think anything of it until this video. Now I know why it's slipping. Looking forward to your next video!
I found your vids through fucking Delboy of all people and they’re a godsend. I’m new to bikes and engines generally but very curious and hoping to eventually do as much of my own work on them as I can. I’m trawling through the whole archive looking for useful stuff and it’s just brilliant. Top man, Matt.
I've recently had to take my gear box out my 1997 bandit 600 because something when snap when I was riding it the other day. Turns out a gear dog had snapped (I can only put it down to miss shifting though not sure why that particular dog on that one gear though) which then has or I assume has broken off two teeth from one of the gears (again not sure why just two and on that particular gear though) I've just watched you're video on how a motorcycle gear box works which massively helped me understand what's going on and why when it first went the engine would stall in neutral if I let the clutch out. Basically the two missing teeth wouldn't mesh properly and would just lock up as the gear they're missing on it a solid gear that moves with the input shaft. Another thing wrong was the clutch went soft is the best way to describe it, also wouldn't return all the way. Still not completely sure on why this happened so thought I'd watch vids on how clutches work to get a better understanding but still hasn't answered anything but great video did learn what's going on. Just to clarify I guess it doesn't matter what order the plates go back in as long as it's friction, drive, friction drive etc? obviously have to be facing the right way too. I did keep the plates together so they should be in the correct order but I just want a way to double check don't wanna fill the engine up with oil again just to find clutch isn't right because I messed up plate order then it's drain oil and replace gasket for clutch cover again lol.
Also just to clarify, clutches slip when those groves appear because they stop the plates from touching one another? Also what stops the plates from touching one another when the clutch is disengaged? One thing I've noticed with the bandit and even my mates sv650 is that in first gear or any gear for that matter, if the engine is off and I pull the clutch in and try to move the bike, it'll move but will be difficult as if the clutch is dragging. But when the engine is running and It's in gear with the clutch pulled in it doesn't try to pull the bike forward. Just wondering why this is and can only assume that the clutch plates don't quite separate enough? Even though the clutch is adjusted properly bit just be the nature of Suzuki motorcycles not sure can anyone explain why this happens?
+Michael Whitney Hello mate, 1st thing, one of the major 'problems' with repairing damaged gearboxes is making sure you find ALL the bits that broke away from the gears. I myself and countless others in the past have found the issue, replaced the parts, stuck it all back together only to hear a klunk and bang and the box is knackered again 2 weeks later. So to you and other make sure you have all the broken pieces and they match up with your broken gear(s). As for the second question about clutch plates, most clutches have the same plates thoughout the clutch, order doesn't matter etc. Some clutches however have a different TOP steel plate with extra 'teeth' but these are usually obvious, and won't go in anywhere else. As for the bandit the plates are all the same. Thanks for the comment and I hope this helps - matt
Pony Power Thanks for the reply, yeah every broken bit is counted for lol 2 teeth and one dog broke off and have found all three pieces but while at first I thought it was just those 3 bits and it explained why the bike would stall in neutral I still couldn't see how my clutch was effected until I took the input shaft out.... Input shaft is snapped in half and the clutch push rods runs through the center of it. Probably also explains why I couldn't always shift gears like the gear shift would just lock up. Weirdly selector forks are fine which is probably the easiest thing to break. Don't have a clue why or how the shaft snapped but if anyone can tell me if it's due to miss-shifting or riding at 10k often is the cause then please say if it's a riding habit that caused it then I need to change that habit lol or is it just down to wear and tear? My only possible explanation is me miss-shifting a few times caused the dog to snap off which landed in-between the two shafts and therefore two gears and snapped off two teeth from one of the gears while at the same time trying to force the two shafts apart thus splitting the input shaft as it's hollow, not sure if the output shaft is hollow too or not.
Pony Power Like don't hit the gear up hard enough I think not really sure what I do when it happens but I'm assuming I don't move the gear shift up enough. But engine will rev to redline and gear shift will be shaking up and down and there's a slight grinding noise from gearbox, simply just pull clutch lever back in and shift up or down and it's fine never had any issues but I can't figure out what's happening when this happens whether gear dogs are grinding together or it gear teeth aren't meshing properly or if possible to gears are trying to drive the back wheel and are causing a conflict just have no clue.
Good video, I have a killer irritating problem on my R6 (2007) been trying to fix for a long time. When my clutch is out and in neutral it keeps a noise, i believe that is normal. However when I am on an incline or moving off in low gears you hear a intermittent rattle and then when I apply more gas/petrol if goes away. If I ride up a very step hill in 1st gear it rattles real bad and I don't have power no matter how much gas I give it. I have changed the frictions disc --no difference. The only way to reduce the noise in normal riding (it does not happen once you at speed) is to feather the clutch. It is a problem beyond the noise because when it is rattling I do not have full power.
Hi mate sorry for the late reply. Yamahas have quite a niosy transmission, and so do the clutches. They usually rattle when in neutral, However, a power loss isn't normal. Your lossing power when the engine is under load and this could mean a clutch fault. You have mensioned you changed the friction plates but did you measure the steel plates for warpage? If you have then the next thing I'd do is check the clutch end play (in and out movement of the clutch) - matt
sorry, my +1 made your "666" nice looking counter step to 667... Alright with that? Just so you know: you ought to be a teacher, c'mon, a Professor! You are a tremendous educationist!
interestingly ducati use a semi-slipper (APTC) clutch on several models, the s2r being one. this unit utilises a similar spring type shock absorber, but sadly the springs are known to shatter and escape their retainers, resulting in considerable damage. i think this has been due to a bad batch of springs, but also maybe,in my opinion, possibly due to the way the retainers put a point load on the springs. i also have a TL1000S but thankfully haven't heard of this kind of failure on suzukis.
Thanks very much for putting all these videos online mate, I have really enjoyed watching them and you have done a great job! Just wondering is there a part 2 too this clutch video that I'm missing, or haven't you got to it yet? Thanks again.
On motorcycle we care about performance and hence weight. You want a small a clutch as possible, so its weight is also low. To do this you have to ask more of the clutch and doing more work creates more waste heat (thermodynamics 101) To remove this heat we use the engines oil supply. It also helps the clutch slip easier when required. Hope this helps - and good question
Just seems weird thinking of something that relies on friction to work being in oil lol. Thanks for the reply Matt. Don't want to sound like an arse kissing wanker but spent the last 3 months watching your channel. Love the content mate.
have a low mileage original(1128 miles) 1976 triumph bonneville. on trying to kick over there is heavy dragging resistance without turning crank over..on removal of spark plugs the crank turns over freely on kicking down.. put plugs the problem returns and sometime the crank DOES turn over ONCE IN AWHILE...HELP.
am i correct that when the clutch is released the it all "locks" together that the Primary is then driving the transmission which would be located in the bell housing next to the output shaft! Having trouble figuring the output engine shaft and where it connects to the transmission.
Sorry mate but I'm having trouble understanding your question. Yes the clutch locks together and yes this connects the primary drive from the crankshaft to the input shaft of the transmission. The output shaft and the input shaft are constantly meshed together. The rest of the question I can't make out - matt
When a motorcycle specs say Multi-disc hydraulically driven , What does that mean ? Does that mean the clutch hand grip has a tank with hydraulic fluid next to it and the cable is filled with fluid down to the engine ?
yes it does - the clutch has springs that 'clamp' the clutch together. To disengage the clutch the plates need to be forced apart - this is done by either a cable and lever (lever at the clutch itself) or hydraulic actuation
I have an xj1100j Maxim. am I hurting anything by sitting at a traffic light in gear with the clutch lever pulled in or should I put the bike in neutral and wait? Great video! Thanks
is the clutch mechanism for kawasaki hd3 two stroke quite the opposite from the regular 4stroke motorcycle engines? im a bit confused and consequently cannot fix my hd3 concerning its clutch pack movements.,i appreciate a good reply. thanks.,! from phiippines here,.
Every answer of mine? - But to answer the question, its up to you. My opinion is yes, not doing so puts unnecessary stress on the gearbox and leads to increased wear. If you have weaker components in your gearbox, particularly the shift forks ans guide rods you can actually fuck your gearbox up.
Hi Matt, can you give me a hint what's going on with my bike? Sometimes it is difficult to upshift into second, it feels like the dogs don't line up with recesses. But when I flick the gears with the bike on the stand, every shift is excellent.
First, thanks for response! The free play seems to be in order, I did add a bit of oil few months back. Actually, I started to notice this problem after that, so maybe it is oil. Maybe be it is too viscous and causes excess drag. I can do a clutchless upshift and it works great (I know it's not a good practice, I just did it to test it out). I kinda gotten used to it, it requires me to be precise&fast to pick a moment to upshift into second. But nobody is perfect and there are times when I miss that moment, I will do an oil change and write back. I am not in a mood to change forks right now. LOL
Hi Matt, I've been given a 125 pit bike but the clutch is dose not work, when riding it on the field I have rev it up then boot it into gear to get going, once it's going I can clutchless up shift and down shift ok and the clutch dose not appear to be slipping, it just won't disengage so I have to stall the bike to stop, the cable is fine so I think the problem is within the clutch itself, just wondered if you had any idear what could cause this before I strip it apart and fuck it completely lol, cheers john.
Sounds like something missing? I'm guessing its a honda replica (the engine). They usually have cam rod actuators - check by removing the cltuch cover and check the cam and the bearings. You can send me a picture through FB
@@dirtygarageguy it's a skyteam which is a bike I'd never even heard of till I was given it, I will strip clutch down soon and get some pics to you if I can't see that problem, thanks Matt👍
best video on youtube! question though, 2019 beta 300rr replacing clutch plates, i notice notches on the end of the plates and also one with a blue marking on it? do these notches have to be lined up? and the blue marking does that need to go first or last? thanks in advance!
The myth of the motorcycle slipping clutch ride! If you follow the "Slipping Clutch" crowd... you will ruin your clutch and have to replace it faster and could cost you injury or death. They had trouble years ago (I'm 74) with dry clutch burning out... why? Partial clutch engagement or taking to long to release the clutch and get it in gear. The fix... automatic transmission which does away with the clutch and uses vanes coupled by oil, (this is my short explanation for it). What did they do for the motorcycle clutch? They came up with putting oil soaked clutch plates in which called for a NEW fiber plate that would grip well enough to engage the transmission for the drive. Did this eliminate the burn problem? NO! It made it last a little longer but didn't eliminate the burning clutch problem. Now we have the MSF crowd advocating slipping your clutch to go through a row of seven cones in order to pass a test that shows you can ride slow. Who heard of such nonsense? A clutch that fails can cause you to lose your life in certain situations. Now we have the police rodeo bunch to show you how they can do a real circus act by slipping the clutch and not only that they do it a 1400 - 1800 rpm! Of course, they get their ride from tax money and have mechanics to replace the clutch on a schedule... using... Yes, you guessed it... tax money to pay for it!
Great video, thanks. Any tips or tricks on replacing the shift lever spring located behind that clutch basket? I've got a 83 Honda V65 Magna that is stuck in third gear. Was cruzin and tried to shift up to 4th but 3rd is all I have now. Thanks.
+lilevil 1955 I have a video on shifter mechanisms here, hope this helps, if not send me a picture as alot of these are quite different. cheers for the comment matt - th-cam.com/video/UjaNXrcU3BA/w-d-xo.html
my atv clutch is really hard to pull and my quad barely goes. so if I replaced the whole thing clutch kit and basket that should solve the problem right? the basket getting worn out will cause the lever to be hard to pull correct?
brian linzie can you engage the clutch at the clutch? i.e move the lever negating the cable? You have to find the problem not just replace parts, could be your input shaft is bent, if you replace the entire clutch you might have the same issue minus the cash. - matt
Yes mate it does. Friction is split into 2 terms. Static friction and kinetic friction. When there is kinetic friction between 2 surfaces heat us produced. This is what the oil is for, to remove heat and dust. As soon as enough force is applied to the 2 sets of disc then static friction is in effect. Oil helps protect the clutch during the kinetic friction stage until staitc friction is reached - hope this helps - matt
On my 83 Honda XR350R, the clutch is VERY hard to pull by the lever, and never fully disengages the clutch. I checked the cable, it is good, it has a new lever, and is adjusted properly. If I negate the cable and try to disengage the clutch by hand on the outside of the engine, I can't. It is too hard to do by hand on that little tiny lever. I am going to open it up tomorrow and inspect everything. After reading I am hoping it is just the clutch basket, however I saw below you commented that it could be the input shaft. What is usually the problem for a hard lever and hard disengagement?
+jbbchinook usually a stiff clutch is down to a few things, the clutch arm is bent or damaged somehow, the clutch cable has seized/not tensioned properly and thirdly grooves in the clutch basket as you mentioned above. Whats the history of your bike? How long have you had it, how many miles, and has this become worse over time or all of a sudden?
There is something i dont understand. Why typically all modern bikes has the first friction disk to go again the boss directly. IN FACT my Bike a Yamaha FZ6, it doesn't do this, on the clutch boss the first thing you find is one of the steels disks, so the friction disk doesn't seat in the boss as first friction place, this avoid the worn up of the clutch boss and the clutch press. But if you look other bikes... you see that the first friction disk seat exactly at the boss, so the boss will grind up exactly as yours on this video... i dont understand why they do that, there must be a explanation.
Friction and slipping are two different things. Slip is the loss of traction (friction has been overcome) The friction material has been design to have a high coefficient of friction but also be softer than the steel plates. Like bearings clutch friction discs are a replaceable part. The Material doesn't heat up as much, steel has a very low friction index so loads of force is need to make them 'stick'
My bike shifts just fine up or down. The only problem is that when I try to go from first to neutral I need to match rev to get it there. This is while at a stop. Also often when I do stop with the clutch pulled while in first gear the engine will stop running. I have a new clutch and clutch cable and the cable is adjusted properly. Could this be due to the type of clutch oil I use? It is a synthetic and the bike is a 1972 Bultaco Pursang.
When I stop the bike in first gear with the clutch pulled in it acts like the clutch isn't fully engaged. It doesn't always do it. I'm thinking it has something to do with the clutch oil I'm using. Perhaps when the oil or plates warn up they don't behave the same as when cold. I've adjusted the clutch according to spec along with clutch cable. Sometimes It's perfectly fine. Other times I know when I'm about to stop the bike in first the engine will stop unless I give it constant revs or put it in neutral. Tough to put into neutral unless I'm moving or rev match.
Hello great videos, I open my clutch to check if plates needed replacement put all back together and now the clutch lever doesn't have any tension, do you know why?
Hi, I have a 2001 Yamaha FZ1 Fazer, when put on center stand and pull the clutch, the wheel is still spinning, what is the problem? It has about 80,000 km, on original clutch. I thought the clutch was almost done, went to the bike shop and was surprised to see that there were still quite a lot of the friction material, I have a few of the friction plates and steel plates darkened, discolored, I think it was burning mark and also the mechanic told me that the steel plates were not flat, need to replace, after waiting for a month and could not find the clutch and plates, in Thailand, he kind od cleaned up and sand it and it was OK again, now when it is on center stand, wheel stops spinning when the clutch is pulled, I felt kind of cheated, what was wrong with my clutch?
Oil change every 5000 km, but I use turbo truck diesel synthetic engine oil, 15w40, which I read on the internet that could be used on motorcycle, but the mechanic told me that it could be the oil that cooked the clutch, he explained that motorcycle uses the oil for engine and gear lubrication, and 15w may be too thick and slow to get into the clutch plates, is that right?
lol no. I like your thinking though. The number of friction plates it down to 3 factors. 1. Surface area. 2. the coefficient of friction of the friction material on steel. 3. The maximium torque generated at the primary reduction gear (i.e the clutch itself)
hi, got a question!: according to the driving instruction theory in the Netherlands, you have to keep pressure downwards on the shiftter to avoid the gear from possible slipping out of gear 1 while driving away??? now i have never experienced such thing in my 28 years of motorcycling. is this even possible or is this bs? tnx.
My mechanic says that he had to replace the pressure plate,as far as I know clutch lining are the one to be replaced on a clutch,is there really a chance that even the pressure plate be damaged?
hi matt my son's ktm 250 clutch is dragging regardless of how you adjust it on the lever it's hydraulic and we have bled it to rule that out .it's very hard if not impossible to find neutral once the engine is running . Could it be badly worn out or is it something less costly at fault ?What do you reckon mate?
only changed the oil to try and remedy the problem .the oil we dropped out of it was really bad like it hadn't been done forever. which got me scratching my head cos the kid we bought the bike off reckoned he had changed a clutch on it
My Suzuki VL800 has the usual springs (4) and set of friction plates and metal plates, but it also has a "Judder spring" (aka: wave spring) and . What can you tell me about them? I've got most all the parts to replace my plates (slipping a bit and not liking it) and plan on doing the job this weekend. My reason for asking, is that "wave washer" is simply metal, but the "seat wave washer" is in special packaging and says not to open until ready to install. This part has "volatile corrosion inhibitor". And, the packaging states to "Place opposite side against metal, which has me wondering if that is the metal of the body, or do they mean the metal of the wave washer?
What year is it? As for the volatile stuff its Nox-rust - usually used in hydraulic cylinders. Its cures when i comes into contatc with free oxygen and becomes useless. Here's the data sheet if your interersted - www.corrosionvci.com/pdf/Nox-Rust1100.pdf Its a fancy oil and because the wave washers are metal on metal and will drip dry when the bike is stood for a while its stops them seizing. The main reason why clutches slip 'slightly' (wet in most cases) is old, bad or the wrong oil. You really need to use the recommended stuff, and ideally swap out every 6 months. As for the "Place opposite side against metal" the wave washer can only fit together one way, the chamfered edges make this clear, so I'm at a loss why they have made a point of it. Just out of curiosity how many miles has the bike done?
Just thinking about it, do you mean 'clutch drive plate number 2'? In the drawing in the link - scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14671360_1762512090682572_3350257724434204517_n.jpg?oh=5e9119b94cfab76c56cd476ddcb9c7cc&oe=586E7F86 If so the '"special side" needs to face towards the transmission not towards the clutch cover like the picture shows. The picture highlights which plate is different - NOT which was it faces - I repeat NOT facing outwards! lol hope that's clear. I'll do a video on this in the future. On a personal note, do you live in Tulsa, OK? And if so do you know Doug Jackson? The SV seeker guy?
If you look at the bottom of the image, you will see the two pieces. They are listed as the wave washer and wave washer seat. They fit in the space at the inner portion of Drive Plate 2. I've read accounts of replacing that plate and the wave parts with a single Drive Plate 1. I'll be setting it up as indicated by Suzuki. Thanks for the response. It helps.
Well, Matt, I might have to replace my VTR 1000F clutch and to be honest I am Shi**ting myself is this a straightforward procedure and most importantly could you lend me a torque wrench:) PS can I complete this job without a torque wrench or is it not advisable. I am an ARMY trained Mechanical Engineer and built many 2 strokes from bits in boxes(MTX200/RDLC350 YPVS) But do I need a torque wrench and could you recommend a cheap and cheerful make please, thank you mate:) The clutch system is as you may know hydraulic but this doesn't concern me but I understand a few bolts on the clutch basket need to be precisely torqued down in a set order :) I watched a video on replacing a clutch and discovered each of the clutch plates has a marking or colour code, I do realise a steel plate has to be placed between each friction plate but I am not happy as I don`t understand nor have step by step instructions on what plate goes in what order:/ your help would be greatly appreciated, Matt. I have not disassembled the clutch yet but I fear the TANGS have made an impression on my clutch basket but with your information, I am confident I can sort this out. Thank you sunshine your help and knowledge is most welcome.
These might help - and where do you live? th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=Ez2IKX9Hs7I th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=3gJiQrpX_NQ th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=Nr3yK7u4wCs
Hello to you , and thanks for all your knowledge. I have a 2007 xv250 virago that's done 30 thousand km . The clutch is rather noisy all the time when in any gear . It's a kind of intermittent metallic light rubbing noise ( of and on) . It's been doing it since I bought it at 22000 km . Can you please let me know what you think it is.
Unfortunately I can not . Only makes noise when moving not idling. When I pull clutch lever in noise disappears. Sounds like metal meshing freely but does not inhibit the performance . Sorry I can't explain it any better.
10w40 full synthetic 1000km ago . Never adjusted clutch as there is no free play . The friction zone on these motorbikes are almost at full extension (fully out).
hi, got a question, why does my gear shifts on its own, like 3 to 4 or 4 to 5 while on the move without me selecting it. clutch issues or gear selector issues? thnx for your help. great vid btw. kawa zed 1000 '10
Definitely a gear issue. The clutch just engages and dis-engages power from crank to the gearbox. Could be a problem with the ratchet mechanism, as 3-4 and 4-5 are different gear sets. Hope this helps you narrow it down - matt
Pony Power - Theory thnx, been to alot of shops, they kept saying its the clutch, even online forum says it cld b the clutch. but thats what i thought, clutch only engage n disengage the power, it doesnt help lock on the gears.
Hiya mate, because its shifting either way I'd firstly rule out bent selector fork rod, this can happen however is usually causes the gears to shift 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th, not usually both. I don't know what tools you have etc, but if you have a dial test indicator then you can check the end play of your input shaft. Stick the test indicator on the end of your input shaft (the shaft your clutch sits on) and test if the shaft has in and out movement. A Kawasaki manual should tell you what is the limit of play, Any questions just give me a bell or post a message on facebook @ facebook.com/pony.power.395
hi matt!! I have been searching online and manuals but have not seen why it is that some cluches have the first friction disc offset from the rest, most people dont offset it and say it is fine but what is the reason for the offset than? greatly appreciated if you could clarify it for me or send a link to something that would.
and by offset I mean cogs on the first friction disc are not aligned with the rest of the pack and there is a short slot for the first friction disc on the basket (aprilia 125 rotax engines, suzuki gsxr, some honda models...
I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same thing. Its going to require a video but in short it 2 things. 1) To reduce clutch chatter - i.e less noise 2) It does this by easing how the torque is transfered to the clutch boss. The first friction plate to grip is the one closest to the pressure plate, and having one engage before all the others do lowers clutch dog impacting. In reality its more about noise than anything, it usually goes hand in hand with anti-judder springs and seats
Hi, great video. Could a dodgy clutch cut out a bike when trying to select first gear from neutral? Ruled out side stand switch and neutral switch at a loose end now. Bike starts and runs fine, continues to run when you pull the clutch lever in but as soon as you knock it down to 1st the bike cuts out? Clutch issue? Thanks for your help..
Anthony Newson Hey thanks for the complement. Yes a 'dodgy' clutch van cause an engine to stall nut its rare. First things first, people ask me this alot and usually 95% its the side stand switch which you mensioned. The switch maybe fine but it might not be moving free enough either due to shit in the way of or the spring isn't strong enough. Best way to be sure is to remove the switch from the frame, test it with a multi meter and then reconnect but have it hanging free. Press the switch manually and then stick it in gear. What bike do you have if you don't mind me asking? - matt
Pony Power sure is a 2002 5EB Yamaha R6. With regards to the side stand switch I have in fact cut the wire above the stand itself and twisted the wires together. If the bike is in gear with the clutch pulled in, it wont start. Not even a clicking sound like its attempting to start.
Anthony Newson Ok cool, i seem to remember that the R6's have clutch switches even as early as your model. Same function as the side stand switch. Have you checked that?
That's under the lever? A) took the wires off and bridged together, still not working. B) purchased a new clutch switch, still not working lol. Ive hit a blank lol
Anthony Newson Ok then, so how does it stall? like a cut off switch or chokes out. if it is a clutch issue then your plates could be sticking, last oil change? If all else has failed then you need to drop the oil and have a look, whats the milage of the bike?
Thats what I thought, but just watched a video where some geezer blips the throttle on a downshift while using the clutch and said that it is better for the clutch. Is that horse shit?
Yamaha r6 5eb 2002 clutch problems: th-cam.com/video/4IYx-aF1W7c/w-d-xo.html does the plates move by hand? I'll add your fb page. When I took the plates out they didn't come apart that easy. Like they were stuck together. They were covered in oil though.
Anthony Newson It depends if the clutch is pulled in or not. WIth the clutch lever out they should behave like that. With the clutch pulled in they should move with the inner clutch hub very easily.
Great explanation. I can count how many times people have asked me how clutches work. Your visual aids are better than mine, of course your drawings are too.
Thankyou , I have only done car clutches , now I feel confident about changing my own bikes clutch
finally a good explanation of the clutch assembly and how it relates to the gearbox, thank you sir!
There's load of other videos I've done if your interested - Thanks for the comment - matt
+Pony Power Thank you for your response. I actually just got the bike for almost free. It has been sitting for a long time, and not running. I was able to get it to run by cleaning the carburetor. Have not tried to put it into gear while running because the clutch. I do not know much about its history other than its been sitting. The clutch lever that was on it was incorrect. I replaced it with oem parts and the cable is adjusted right to the best of my knowledge. I will report back with what I find today. I will also be changing the oil and filter a couple of times before riding it.
+jbbchinook 9/10 the clutch basket is worn of the tension and free play of the cable is incorrect. One other thing can be the thrust washer in the clutch is missing, check to see what state the gasket is in, you can usually tell if someone has been in there previously.
+Pony Power somebodies been in here for sure. what is the location of the thrust washer youre refering to?
+jbbchinook some clutch designs don't have them, its a washer between the clutch basket and the input shaft bearing (behind the entire clutch. Check a service manual or parts breakdown from a parts site.
+Pony Power facebook.com/pony.power.395 this is my facebook page I have posted a picture where the thrust washer is - or go to this site www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1983-honda-xr350r/o/m9706#sch421963 - its number 19 on the drawing.
Great videos on the inner workings of all parts. Not so sure I'm comfortable tackling a gear box repair or crankshaft replace but certainly have a better understanding when a/my mechanic gets into technical jargon about repairs that my ride needs. Takes a lot of time and energy to put the videos together and just letting you know it's really appreciated!
Thanks for this! Been riding 14 years, and only just learned about clutches today, thanks to you! :)
Thanks for the comment mate, will be more indepth videos on this and gearboxes coming soon - matt
One of the best and clearest explanations of the workings of a clutch I’ve ever seen...nice job Matt. New sub here: not a biker, but just interested in mechanicals and how things work. This channel is a gold seam.
Working on replacing the clutch in my 2000 CR250R and your videos are extremely helpful. Thanks buddy!
No worries dude thanks for the comment - matt
Thank you great explanation of a complex component. Keep it coming.
Finally! Thank you so much. I’ve been trying to figure out what has been going on with my clutch. I've had my cruiser for years and I ride it hard. It started slipping several months ago. I tried changing the oil and friction plates, putting in Barnett Springs, and scuffing up the metal plates. No go. I notice that there was wearing on the clutch basket and clutch boss but didn’t think anything of it until this video. Now I know why it's slipping.
Looking forward to your next video!
No worries mate, should be doing another video soon on clutch assembly and end-play which can also be important. Thanks again for the comment - matt
I found your vids through fucking Delboy of all people and they’re a godsend. I’m new to bikes and engines generally but very curious and hoping to eventually do as much of my own work on them as I can. I’m trawling through the whole archive looking for useful stuff and it’s just brilliant. Top man, Matt.
I've recently had to take my gear box out my 1997 bandit 600 because something when snap when I was riding it the other day. Turns out a gear dog had snapped (I can only put it down to miss shifting though not sure why that particular dog on that one gear though) which then has or I assume has broken off two teeth from one of the gears (again not sure why just two and on that particular gear though)
I've just watched you're video on how a motorcycle gear box works which massively helped me understand what's going on and why when it first went the engine would stall in neutral if I let the clutch out. Basically the two missing teeth wouldn't mesh properly and would just lock up as the gear they're missing on it a solid gear that moves with the input shaft. Another thing wrong was the clutch went soft is the best way to describe it, also wouldn't return all the way. Still not completely sure on why this happened so thought I'd watch vids on how clutches work to get a better understanding but still hasn't answered anything but great video did learn what's going on.
Just to clarify I guess it doesn't matter what order the plates go back in as long as it's friction, drive, friction drive etc? obviously have to be facing the right way too. I did keep the plates together so they should be in the correct order but I just want a way to double check don't wanna fill the engine up with oil again just to find clutch isn't right because I messed up plate order then it's drain oil and replace gasket for clutch cover again lol.
Also just to clarify, clutches slip when those groves appear because they stop the plates from touching one another? Also what stops the plates from touching one another when the clutch is disengaged?
One thing I've noticed with the bandit and even my mates sv650 is that in first gear or any gear for that matter, if the engine is off and I pull the clutch in and try to move the bike, it'll move but will be difficult as if the clutch is dragging. But when the engine is running and It's in gear with the clutch pulled in it doesn't try to pull the bike forward. Just wondering why this is and can only assume that the clutch plates don't quite separate enough? Even though the clutch is adjusted properly bit just be the nature of Suzuki motorcycles not sure can anyone explain why this happens?
+Michael Whitney Hello mate, 1st thing, one of the major 'problems' with repairing damaged gearboxes is making sure you find ALL the bits that broke away from the gears. I myself and countless others in the past have found the issue, replaced the parts, stuck it all back together only to hear a klunk and bang and the box is knackered again 2 weeks later. So to you and other make sure you have all the broken pieces and they match up with your broken gear(s).
As for the second question about clutch plates, most clutches have the same plates thoughout the clutch, order doesn't matter etc. Some clutches however have a different TOP steel plate with extra 'teeth' but these are usually obvious, and won't go in anywhere else. As for the bandit the plates are all the same.
Thanks for the comment and I hope this helps
- matt
Pony Power Thanks for the reply, yeah every broken bit is counted for lol 2 teeth and one dog broke off and have found all three pieces but while at first I thought it was just those 3 bits and it explained why the bike would stall in neutral I still couldn't see how my clutch was effected until I took the input shaft out....
Input shaft is snapped in half and the clutch push rods runs through the center of it. Probably also explains why I couldn't always shift gears like the gear shift would just lock up. Weirdly selector forks are fine which is probably the easiest thing to break. Don't have a clue why or how the shaft snapped but if anyone can tell me if it's due to miss-shifting or riding at 10k often is the cause then please say if it's a riding habit that caused it then I need to change that habit lol or is it just down to wear and tear?
My only possible explanation is me miss-shifting a few times caused the dog to snap off which landed in-between the two shafts and therefore two gears and snapped off two teeth from one of the gears while at the same time trying to force the two shafts apart thus splitting the input shaft as it's hollow, not sure if the output shaft is hollow too or not.
+Michael Whitney nearly all shafts are hollow for lightness. when you say miss-shifting can you be abit more elaborate?
Pony Power Like don't hit the gear up hard enough I think not really sure what I do when it happens but I'm assuming I don't move the gear shift up enough. But engine will rev to redline and gear shift will be shaking up and down and there's a slight grinding noise from gearbox, simply just pull clutch lever back in and shift up or down and it's fine never had any issues but I can't figure out what's happening when this happens whether gear dogs are grinding together or it gear teeth aren't meshing properly or if possible to gears are trying to drive the back wheel and are causing a conflict just have no clue.
There is no way to explain it better - thank you
Nunuatak Nonatakaa thank you for the compliment - matt
Super helpful, thanks for your efforts
Very good explanation buddy, made it easy to learn, thanks!
Very happy to help mate no worries - matt
Good video, I have a killer irritating problem on my R6 (2007) been trying to fix for a long time. When my clutch is out and in neutral it keeps a noise, i believe that is normal. However when I am on an incline or moving off in low gears you hear a intermittent rattle and then when I apply more gas/petrol if goes away. If I ride up a very step hill in 1st gear it rattles real bad and I don't have power no matter how much gas I give it. I have changed the frictions disc --no difference. The only way to reduce the noise in normal riding (it does not happen once you at speed) is to feather the clutch. It is a problem beyond the noise because when it is rattling I do not have full power.
Hi mate sorry for the late reply. Yamahas have quite a niosy transmission, and so do the clutches. They usually rattle when in neutral, However, a power loss isn't normal. Your lossing power when the engine is under load and this could mean a clutch fault. You have mensioned you changed the friction plates but did you measure the steel plates for warpage? If you have then the next thing I'd do is check the clutch end play (in and out movement of the clutch) - matt
Thanks, I just got an entire good condition used clutch basket, disc and plates so I will go to mechanic and see what is what.
Lucid ! Thanks for the education !
was thinking about clutch today knew you would have one made. ty
Great video dell boy
sorry, my +1 made your "666" nice looking counter step to 667... Alright with that?
Just so you know: you ought to be a teacher, c'mon, a Professor! You are a tremendous educationist!
interestingly ducati use a semi-slipper (APTC) clutch on several models, the s2r being one. this unit utilises a similar spring type shock absorber, but sadly the springs are known to shatter and escape their retainers, resulting in considerable damage. i think this has been due to a bad batch of springs, but also maybe,in my opinion, possibly due to the way the retainers put a point load on the springs. i also have a TL1000S but thankfully haven't heard of this kind of failure on suzukis.
Thanks very much for putting all these videos online mate, I have really enjoyed watching them and you have done a great job! Just wondering is there a part 2 too this clutch video that I'm missing, or haven't you got to it yet? Thanks again.
That's in the pipes mate and thanks for the comment - matt
Theres a small ball bearing washer goes on.what way should the bearings be facing?
Brilliant
U are good teacher boss
Brilliant video thank u 👀♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What's the reason for bike clutches to be wet unlike cars?
On motorcycle we care about performance and hence weight. You want a small a clutch as possible, so its weight is also low. To do this you have to ask more of the clutch and doing more work creates more waste heat (thermodynamics 101) To remove this heat we use the engines oil supply. It also helps the clutch slip easier when required. Hope this helps - and good question
Just seems weird thinking of something that relies on friction to work being in oil lol. Thanks for the reply Matt. Don't want to sound like an arse kissing wanker but spent the last 3 months watching your channel. Love the content mate.
have a low mileage original(1128 miles) 1976 triumph bonneville. on trying to kick over there is heavy dragging resistance without turning crank over..on removal of spark plugs the crank turns over freely on kicking down.. put plugs the problem returns and sometime the crank DOES turn over ONCE IN AWHILE...HELP.
"on trying to kick over there is heavy dragging resistance without turning crank over"
- you mean with your clutch pulled in?
am i correct that when the clutch is released the it all "locks" together that the Primary is then driving the transmission which would be located in the bell housing next to the output shaft! Having trouble figuring the output engine shaft and where it connects to the transmission.
Sorry mate but I'm having trouble understanding your question. Yes the clutch locks together and yes this connects the primary drive from the crankshaft to the input shaft of the transmission. The output shaft and the input shaft are constantly meshed together. The rest of the question I can't make out - matt
When a motorcycle specs say Multi-disc hydraulically driven , What does that mean ? Does that mean the clutch hand grip has a tank with hydraulic fluid next to it and the cable is filled with fluid down to the engine ?
yes it does - the clutch has springs that 'clamp' the clutch together. To disengage the clutch the plates need to be forced apart - this is done by either a cable and lever (lever at the clutch itself) or hydraulic actuation
Hola donde puedo comprar el kit completo de embrague.
I have an xj1100j Maxim. am I hurting anything by sitting at a traffic light in gear with the clutch lever pulled in or should I put the bike in neutral and wait? Great video! Thanks
is the clutch mechanism for kawasaki hd3 two stroke quite the opposite from the regular 4stroke motorcycle engines?
im a bit confused and consequently cannot fix my hd3 concerning its clutch pack movements.,i appreciate a good reply.
thanks.,!
from phiippines here,.
@The Workshop is it necessary to clutch for every shift on a motocross bike? Every answer seems to be different
Every answer of mine? - But to answer the question, its up to you. My opinion is yes, not doing so puts unnecessary stress on the gearbox and leads to increased wear. If you have weaker components in your gearbox, particularly the shift forks ans guide rods you can actually fuck your gearbox up.
Fantastic explanantion
Thanks for the gracious comment dude - matt
Hi Matt, can you give me a hint what's going on with my bike? Sometimes it is difficult to upshift into second, it feels like the dogs don't line up with recesses. But when I flick the gears with the bike on the stand, every shift is excellent.
oh could be a bent selector fork lol Erm.......... have you checked the free-play in the clutch and have you changed oil recently?
First, thanks for response! The free play seems to be in order, I did add a bit of oil few months back. Actually, I started to notice this problem after that, so maybe it is oil. Maybe be it is too viscous and causes excess drag.
I can do a clutchless upshift and it works great (I know it's not a good practice, I just did it to test it out). I kinda gotten used to it, it requires me to be precise&fast to pick a moment to upshift into second. But nobody is perfect and there are times when I miss that moment, I will do an oil change and write back. I am not in a mood to change forks right now. LOL
No worries mate and thanks for the comment - matt
Thank you for the content!
Hi Matt, I've been given a 125 pit bike but the clutch is dose not work, when riding it on the field I have rev it up then boot it into gear to get going, once it's going I can clutchless up shift and down shift ok and the clutch dose not appear to be slipping, it just won't disengage so I have to stall the bike to stop, the cable is fine so I think the problem is within the clutch itself, just wondered if you had any idear what could cause this before I strip it apart and fuck it completely lol, cheers john.
Sounds like something missing? I'm guessing its a honda replica (the engine). They usually have cam rod actuators - check by removing the cltuch cover and check the cam and the bearings. You can send me a picture through FB
@@dirtygarageguy it's a skyteam which is a bike I'd never even heard of till I was given it, I will strip clutch down soon and get some pics to you if I can't see that problem, thanks Matt👍
great video thanks
donokanagan no worries mate - thanks for the comment.
best video on youtube! question though, 2019 beta 300rr replacing clutch plates, i notice notches on the end of the plates and also one with a blue marking on it? do these notches have to be lined up? and the blue marking does that need to go first or last? thanks in advance!
Thank you so much for the informative video. Just wanted to ask, if you were to briefly define the clutch boss' function, what would it be? Thank you!
+Margx P the cluct boss is a rotating locking shroud which transfers torque to the input shaft of the gearbox
good Video! very informative!
The myth of the motorcycle slipping clutch ride! If you follow the "Slipping Clutch" crowd... you will ruin your clutch and have to replace it faster and could cost you injury or death. They had trouble years ago (I'm 74) with dry clutch burning out... why? Partial clutch engagement or taking to long to release the clutch and get it in gear. The fix... automatic transmission which does away with the clutch and uses vanes coupled by oil, (this is my short explanation for it). What did they do for the motorcycle clutch? They came up with putting oil soaked clutch plates in which called for a NEW fiber plate that would grip well enough to engage the transmission for the drive. Did this eliminate the burn problem? NO! It made it last a little longer but didn't eliminate the burning clutch problem. Now we have the MSF crowd advocating slipping your clutch to go through a row of seven cones in order to pass a test that shows you can ride slow. Who heard of such nonsense? A clutch that fails can cause you to lose your life in certain situations. Now we have the police rodeo bunch to show you how they can do a real circus act by slipping the clutch and not only that they do it a 1400 - 1800 rpm! Of course, they get their ride from tax money and have mechanics to replace the clutch on a schedule... using... Yes, you guessed it... tax money to pay for it!
Great video, thanks. Any tips or tricks on replacing the shift lever spring located behind that clutch basket? I've got a 83 Honda V65 Magna that is stuck in third gear. Was cruzin and tried to shift up to 4th but 3rd is all I have now. Thanks.
+lilevil 1955 I have a video on shifter mechanisms here, hope this helps, if not send me a picture as alot of these are quite different. cheers for the comment matt - th-cam.com/video/UjaNXrcU3BA/w-d-xo.html
my atv clutch is really hard to pull and my quad barely goes. so if I replaced the whole thing clutch kit and basket that should solve the problem right? the basket getting worn out will cause the lever to be hard to pull correct?
brian linzie can you engage the clutch at the clutch? i.e move the lever negating the cable? You have to find the problem not just replace parts, could be your input shaft is bent, if you replace the entire clutch you might have the same issue minus the cash. - matt
cant understand how oil and fiction material work together,,,,, does oil go over friction material???
Yes mate it does. Friction is split into 2 terms. Static friction and kinetic friction. When there is kinetic friction between 2 surfaces heat us produced. This is what the oil is for, to remove heat and dust. As soon as enough force is applied to the 2 sets of disc then static friction is in effect. Oil helps protect the clutch during the kinetic friction stage until staitc friction is reached - hope this helps - matt
On my 83 Honda XR350R, the clutch is VERY hard to pull by the lever, and never fully disengages the clutch. I checked the cable, it is good, it has a new lever, and is adjusted properly. If I negate the cable and try to disengage the clutch by hand on the outside of the engine, I can't. It is too hard to do by hand on that little tiny lever. I am going to open it up tomorrow and inspect everything. After reading I am hoping it is just the clutch basket, however I saw below you commented that it could be the input shaft. What is usually the problem for a hard lever and hard disengagement?
+jbbchinook usually a stiff clutch is down to a few things, the clutch arm is bent or damaged somehow, the clutch cable has seized/not tensioned properly and thirdly grooves in the clutch basket as you mentioned above. Whats the history of your bike? How long have you had it, how many miles, and has this become worse over time or all of a sudden?
There is something i dont understand. Why typically all modern bikes has the first friction disk to go again the boss directly. IN FACT my Bike a Yamaha FZ6, it doesn't do this, on the clutch boss the first thing you find is one of the steels disks, so the friction disk doesn't seat in the boss as first friction place, this avoid the worn up of the clutch boss and the clutch press.
But if you look other bikes... you see that the first friction disk seat exactly at the boss, so the boss will grind up exactly as yours on this video... i dont understand why they do that, there must be a explanation.
i just thought how oil on any friction material doesnt cause slip,,,,,, if not, why use friction material at all??
Friction and slipping are two different things. Slip is the loss of traction (friction has been overcome) The friction material has been design to have a high coefficient of friction but also be softer than the steel plates. Like bearings clutch friction discs are a replaceable part. The Material doesn't heat up as much, steel has a very low friction index so loads of force is need to make them 'stick'
My bike shifts just fine up or down. The only problem is that when I try to go from first to neutral I need to match rev to get it there. This is while at a stop. Also often when I do stop with the clutch pulled while in first gear the engine will stop running. I have a new clutch and clutch cable and the cable is adjusted properly. Could this be due to the type of clutch oil I use? It is a synthetic and the bike is a 1972 Bultaco Pursang.
When I stop the bike in first gear with the clutch pulled in it acts like the clutch isn't fully engaged. It doesn't always do it. I'm thinking it has something to do with the clutch oil I'm using. Perhaps when the oil or plates warn up they don't behave the same as when cold. I've adjusted the clutch according to spec along with clutch cable. Sometimes It's perfectly fine. Other times I know when I'm about to stop the bike in first the engine will stop unless I give it constant revs or put it in neutral. Tough to put into neutral unless I'm moving or rev match.
Hello great videos, I open my clutch to check if plates needed replacement put all back together and now the clutch lever doesn't have any tension, do you know why?
That's a broad question. have you put everthing back properly? The answer is NO obviously. But this question is too vague.
The Workshop thanks I believe so I'm not sure what's wrong
Ok then do you have facebook?
I don't have Fb, I'm thinking is something crankcase spring
Hi, I have a 2001 Yamaha FZ1 Fazer, when put on center stand and pull the clutch, the wheel is still spinning, what is the problem? It has about 80,000 km, on original clutch. I thought the clutch was almost done, went to the bike shop and was surprised to see that there were still quite a lot of the friction material, I have a few of the friction plates and steel plates darkened, discolored, I think it was burning mark and also the mechanic told me that the steel plates were not flat, need to replace, after waiting for a month and could not find the clutch and plates, in Thailand, he kind od cleaned up and sand it and it was OK again, now when it is on center stand, wheel stops spinning when the clutch is pulled, I felt kind of cheated, what was wrong with my clutch?
Could be old oil. How often do you change the oil?
Oil change every 5000 km, but I use turbo truck diesel synthetic engine oil, 15w40, which I read on the internet that could be used on motorcycle, but the mechanic told me that it could be the oil that cooked the clutch, he explained that motorcycle uses the oil for engine and gear lubrication, and 15w may be too thick and slow to get into the clutch plates, is that right?
Every 5,000 km, but this is a 15 year- old bike with original clutch with 80k km.
i still dont get how the pressure plate moves out when you pull the lever.
I'm assuming there's a friction plate and metal plate for each gear on the bike?
lol no. I like your thinking though. The number of friction plates it down to 3 factors. 1. Surface area. 2. the coefficient of friction of the friction material on steel. 3. The maximium torque generated at the primary reduction gear (i.e the clutch itself)
Any idea what could have caused the damage to the clutch boss?
That's just general milage
hi, got a question!: according to the driving instruction theory in the Netherlands, you have to keep pressure downwards on the shiftter to avoid the gear from possible slipping out of gear 1 while driving away??? now i have never experienced such thing in my 28 years of motorcycling. is this even possible or is this bs? tnx.
Really??? This sounds mental - do you have any proof? I mean something I can show the great unwashed
i have proof but it is in dutch, i didnt agree either, first thing in my mind was maybe 50 years ago with double-clutching?
if its in Dutch that's fine
this is the book, www.verjo.nl/instructie/rijprocedures/rijprocedure-a.html , dont know how to share it other way
My mechanic says that he had to replace the pressure plate,as far as I know clutch lining are the one to be replaced on a clutch,is there really a chance that even the pressure plate be damaged?
yes, the pressure plate is under alot of, well......... pressure. They can warp, crack, overheat and the main clamping surface can wear.
thanks for the reply sir
hi matt my son's ktm 250 clutch is dragging regardless of how you adjust it on the lever it's hydraulic and we have bled it to rule that out .it's very hard if not impossible to find neutral once the engine is running . Could it be badly worn out or is it something less costly at fault ?What do you reckon mate?
Have you recently changed the oil?
only changed the oil to try and remedy the problem .the oil we dropped out of it was really bad like it hadn't been done forever. which got me scratching my head cos the kid we bought the bike off reckoned he had changed a clutch on it
it's a 2004 ktm 250 exc for reference
My Suzuki VL800 has the usual springs (4) and set of friction plates and metal plates, but it also has a "Judder spring" (aka: wave spring) and . What can you tell me about them? I've got most all the parts to replace my plates (slipping a bit and not liking it) and plan on doing the job this weekend. My reason for asking, is that "wave washer" is simply metal, but the "seat wave washer" is in special packaging and says not to open until ready to install. This part has "volatile corrosion inhibitor". And, the packaging states to "Place opposite side against metal, which has me wondering if that is the metal of the body, or do they mean the metal of the wave washer?
What year is it? As for the volatile stuff its Nox-rust - usually used in hydraulic cylinders. Its cures when i comes into contatc with free oxygen and becomes useless. Here's the data sheet if your interersted - www.corrosionvci.com/pdf/Nox-Rust1100.pdf
Its a fancy oil and because the wave washers are metal on metal and will drip dry when the bike is stood for a while its stops them seizing.
The main reason why clutches slip 'slightly' (wet in most cases) is old, bad or the wrong oil. You really need to use the recommended stuff, and ideally swap out every 6 months.
As for the "Place opposite side against metal" the wave washer can only fit together one way, the chamfered edges make this clear, so I'm at a loss why they have made a point of it. Just out of curiosity how many miles has the bike done?
Just thinking about it, do you mean 'clutch drive plate number 2'? In the drawing in the link - scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14671360_1762512090682572_3350257724434204517_n.jpg?oh=5e9119b94cfab76c56cd476ddcb9c7cc&oe=586E7F86
If so the '"special side" needs to face towards the transmission not towards the clutch cover like the picture shows. The picture highlights which plate is different - NOT which was it faces - I repeat NOT facing outwards!
lol hope that's clear. I'll do a video on this in the future.
On a personal note, do you live in Tulsa, OK? And if so do you know Doug Jackson? The SV seeker guy?
If you look at the bottom of the image, you will see the two pieces. They are listed as the wave washer and wave washer seat. They fit in the space at the inner portion of Drive Plate 2. I've read accounts of replacing that plate and the wave parts with a single Drive Plate 1. I'll be setting it up as indicated by Suzuki.
Thanks for the response. It helps.
Well, Matt, I might have to replace my VTR 1000F clutch and to be honest I am Shi**ting myself is this a straightforward procedure and most importantly could you lend me a torque wrench:)
PS can I complete this job without a torque wrench or is it not advisable.
I am an ARMY trained Mechanical Engineer and built many 2 strokes from bits in boxes(MTX200/RDLC350 YPVS)
But do I need a torque wrench and could you recommend a cheap and cheerful make please, thank you mate:)
The clutch system is as you may know hydraulic but this doesn't concern me but I understand a few bolts on the clutch basket need to be precisely torqued down in a set order :)
I watched a video on replacing a clutch and discovered each of the clutch plates has a marking or colour code, I do realise a steel plate has to be placed between each friction plate but I am not happy as I don`t understand nor have step by step instructions on what plate goes in what order:/
your help would be greatly appreciated, Matt.
I have not disassembled the clutch yet but I fear the TANGS have made an impression on my clutch basket but with your information, I am confident I can sort this out.
Thank you sunshine your help and knowledge is most welcome.
These might help - and where do you live?
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=Ez2IKX9Hs7I
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=3gJiQrpX_NQ
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=Nr3yK7u4wCs
Nottingham mate I might pop into screw fix ☺
Hello to you , and thanks for all your knowledge. I have a 2007 xv250 virago that's done 30 thousand km . The clutch is rather noisy all the time when in any gear . It's a kind of intermittent metallic light rubbing noise ( of and on) . It's been doing it since I bought it at 22000 km . Can you please let me know what you think it is.
can you send me a video?
Unfortunately I can not . Only makes noise when moving not idling. When I pull clutch lever in noise disappears. Sounds like metal meshing freely but does not inhibit the performance . Sorry I can't explain it any better.
When did you last change oil and adjust your clutch free-play?
10w40 full synthetic 1000km ago . Never adjusted clutch as there is no free play . The friction zone on these motorbikes are almost at full extension (fully out).
Thank you for steering me towards the clutch cable. All fixed with a spanner in 5 minutes. Your a bloody legend.
hi, got a question, why does my gear shifts on its own, like 3 to 4 or 4 to 5 while on the move without me selecting it. clutch issues or gear selector issues? thnx for your help. great vid btw. kawa zed 1000 '10
Definitely a gear issue. The clutch just engages and dis-engages power from crank to the gearbox. Could be a problem with the ratchet mechanism, as 3-4 and 4-5 are different gear sets. Hope this helps you narrow it down - matt
Pony Power - Theory thnx, been to alot of shops, they kept saying its the clutch, even online forum says it cld b the clutch. but thats what i thought, clutch only engage n disengage the power, it doesnt help lock on the gears.
Does the gear change happen randomly or just after changing gears?
Pony Power - Theory usually during throttling up from abt 100km/h sometimes it shifted down
Hiya mate, because its shifting either way I'd firstly rule out bent selector fork rod, this can happen however is usually causes the gears to shift 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th, not usually both. I don't know what tools you have etc, but if you have a dial test indicator then you can check the end play of your input shaft. Stick the test indicator on the end of your input shaft (the shaft your clutch sits on) and test if the shaft has in and out movement. A Kawasaki manual should tell you what is the limit of play, Any questions just give me a bell or post a message on facebook @ facebook.com/pony.power.395
Anyone as jamco bikes .I changed my clutch now its not working
U have done all
hi matt!! I have been searching online and manuals but have not seen why it is that some cluches have the first friction disc offset from the rest, most people dont offset it and say it is fine but what is the reason for the offset than? greatly appreciated if you could clarify it for me or send a link to something that would.
and by offset I mean cogs on the first friction disc are not aligned with the rest of the pack and there is a short slot for the first friction disc on the basket (aprilia 125 rotax engines, suzuki gsxr, some honda models...
I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same thing. Its going to require a video but in short it 2 things.
1) To reduce clutch chatter - i.e less noise
2) It does this by easing how the torque is transfered to the clutch boss. The first friction plate to grip is the one closest to the pressure plate, and having one engage before all the others do lowers clutch dog impacting.
In reality its more about noise than anything, it usually goes hand in hand with anti-judder springs and seats
Hi, great video. Could a dodgy clutch cut out a bike when trying to select first gear from neutral? Ruled out side stand switch and neutral switch at a loose end now. Bike starts and runs fine, continues to run when you pull the clutch lever in but as soon as you knock it down to 1st the bike cuts out? Clutch issue? Thanks for your help..
Anthony Newson Hey thanks for the complement. Yes a 'dodgy' clutch van cause an engine to stall nut its rare. First things first, people ask me this alot and usually 95% its the side stand switch which you mensioned. The switch maybe fine but it might not be moving free enough either due to shit in the way of or the spring isn't strong enough. Best way to be sure is to remove the switch from the frame, test it with a multi meter and then reconnect but have it hanging free. Press the switch manually and then stick it in gear. What bike do you have if you don't mind me asking? - matt
Pony Power sure is a 2002 5EB Yamaha R6. With regards to the side stand switch I have in fact cut the wire above the stand itself and twisted the wires together. If the bike is in gear with the clutch pulled in, it wont start. Not even a clicking sound like its attempting to start.
Anthony Newson Ok cool, i seem to remember that the R6's have clutch switches even as early as your model. Same function as the side stand switch. Have you checked that?
That's under the lever? A) took the wires off and bridged together, still not working. B) purchased a new clutch switch, still not working lol. Ive hit a blank lol
Anthony Newson Ok then, so how does it stall? like a cut off switch or chokes out. if it is a clutch issue then your plates could be sticking, last oil change? If all else has failed then you need to drop the oil and have a look, whats the milage of the bike?
Thank you so much :)
No worries mate - matt
Top video thanks
Thanks mate no worries and thanks for taking the time to comment, makes the whole thing worth it - matt
Damn good vid. Thanks bro.
+Larry Sawyer No worries mate, glad you liked it - matt
awesome!!
1k like soon 🤔🙃
much learn
rev matching ......what's that all about?
Clutchless shifting
Thats what I thought, but just watched a video where some geezer blips the throttle on a downshift while using the clutch and said that it is better for the clutch. Is that horse shit?
No, more on this in a later video - but good question
, i remember "guy martin" lol,
Yamaha r6 5eb 2002 clutch problems: th-cam.com/video/4IYx-aF1W7c/w-d-xo.html does the plates move by hand? I'll add your fb page. When I took the plates out they didn't come apart that easy. Like they were stuck together. They were covered in oil though.
Anthony Newson It depends if the clutch is pulled in or not. WIth the clutch lever out they should behave like that. With the clutch pulled in they should move with the inner clutch hub very easily.
Liverpool accent?
their is something u did not say.....
what?
Fuckin , you never seed Fuckin
you sound just like Guy Martin......
Brits are chatty. Skip to 7:45 for the meat of the matter.
lie