This video breaks down what you get for your money when ordering the, 313mm Wheelbase Metal Chassis Frame for 1/10 RC Crawler Car Axial SCX10 II 90046 kit #injora #scx10 clone
i got one and it was all metal except the axel housings, you must replace the shafts to axial hd shafts and shrink wrap the drive shaft ends. the spring in the cover slips and the grub screw falls out. the prefixal motor setup is silent with my brushless motor. keep vids coming
As we brake our shafts , i will do the hd upgrades like you mentioned. The shrink wrap tip is a good one , thank you 😊. I did have a center transfer shaft let go but that was on the unit that was treated as a basher, grub screw bavked out. I loaded the red lock tight to the seams on the transfer shaft and then blue lock tight to the grub screws .... no issues since . I love the prefixial transmissions so far and when time comes thati can afford 3 brushless systems . The trucks will see those too. What system are you running. Thank you for leaving your comments and conversation.
Deadass I got the regular automatic one not the 2 speed. I slapped on the 2 door Jeep Truck injora hardbody and added extra lubrication for the planetary gears, transfer case (upgraded to aluminum) and both differentials. honestly with the 20T Axial 540 motor w/ a Flysky GT3B transmitter and reciever w/ a Hobbywing 1060 Esc and swamp tires 1.9inch this injora kit moves pretty nice but yeah, overall nice just verify screw tighteness here and there. I’m running this on 2s nickel hydrite batteries but Lipos would work as well as I was told. the kit is absolutely not perfect I will admit that. Those axles definitely not a fan of plastic I will be upgrading those to metal soon. the only downside of this injora kit is the motor fitment It has to be a 540 motor, can’t put a 550 without washers and spacers because of the clearances. it has to be a 12mm or less w/ 3.175-3.17mm kind of shaft at the end of the motor. overall its fun but honestly I was on the fence but overall did save some money.
I find that evert 540 I have installed into this chassis has had to have 3 mm ground off the armeture. And the tight fit for the end ell bearing into the mount plate has caused issues... All quick fixes though. I have upgraded one of 3 of these chassis sets to the aluminum transfer case housing. But want to see if the plastic holds up for what use we will throw at it. I wish there was more metal provided in these kits but feel that is the compromise one has to make for the price we payed. I have yet to put these on any trails. I am still build 3 of these as life has slowed me down a bit. Thank you for leaving a comment and taking the time to. Heck out my channel
@@rccustomcreations 3mm space you say?! I just saw a part like that for rcs floating around on eBay! I will definitely be looking more into this! I got plans for a 550 12T Glopact with an Esc for this set up
I bought the bare chassis no axles or shafts, was 170ish canadian as i wanted aluminum axles. It comes with aluminum trans mount and transfer case housing. Hard to belive you can get such a solid crawler for the price of an rtr these days
In building 3 of these kits at one time, I decided to go this route but wish I went the bare chassis route. Time will allow me to upgrade each unit at a time. The cost of a decent rc is through the roof to the point that it's almost impossible to get a family Involved kow days. Tha k you for your comment. And checking out my channel content. What part of Canada are you In, I'm in fredericton NB
Thank you for viewing my content and leaving a question. The axles come with spiral cut gears wich is surprising and fully set up with ball bearings. So far on my 3 chassis sets , i have had no issues
Im sorry i missed your second question bud, this is a detailed video on how i installed injora magnetic body mounts on these chassis sets to work with the jeep hard shell body kits th-cam.com/video/FRYt0G6pFiY/w-d-xo.html
I heard of this mod being done and it being a great mod. I have yet to replace any of the axle sets on all 3 trucks that use these axles. I am easy on my truck. My wife runs hers like a basher and my 3 year old sun is all throttle into walls and tall grass getting bound up. No issues. So with that being said. I guess its all in how these get used. Perhaps defective sets do get past quality control . 🤔
To install the motor you have to remove a screw from the top of the transmission and one from the bottom that hold the front motor plate and sun gear out of the front of the transmission. On your motor if it is painted you may have to sand or file then paint off the front bearing housing that goes into the motor plate if the motor wont go in the center hole all the way. ( if your using a brushed motor ) Next step is to i stall your transmission supplied pinion gear. ( not changable for other pinions with more or less teeth) this step is a bit of trial and error . Place your pinion gear into the motor shaft and lightly tighten the grub screw so thag the gear can still slide on the shaft but with slight friction. This is so that once you get the motor seated onto thenplate you can now temporarily install the motor plate and sun gear back into the transmission. ( all your trying to do right now is set the gear to the proper spot-on the shaft) yiu can remove the 3 little gears for this step but do need the plate with the 3 pins for the gears still installed in the transmission. You will have a large washer looking thing . Leave that out of the transmission for now. When have the sungear and the motor plate pushed all the way into the transmission. Carefully pull it back out and trh not to move the pinion gear. Once you have the assembly removed , carefully tap the face of the pinion gear onto the shaft abiut half a mm more toward the body of your motor and then fully tighten your grub screw. If you have not installed your motor screws yet then do so but make sure they are not to long . If they are too long you may damage your motor. Now install your 3 gears if you removed them . Llace the large washer on top of the 3 gears and then install the motor plate into the transmission This can take patience as you will have tonplau with gear alignment on all 3 gears if i recall correctly. Once you get all that installed , you need to install the screws into the top and bottom of the transmission that were first removed. Pro tip... the two threaded screw holes on the front face of the transmission ... after your motor is installed take 2 screws with a washer on each and install those into those two holes. 4mm or 5mm long screws should work ( the goal is to get the washers to tighten io to the facenof the transmission. The washers on each side of the motor plate will help eliminate the side to side play that can happen under normal use ,this play can burn your motors up premature. If this helps you let me know. If you rather watch a video . Give me a couple days and i will record a install video
Is the shock oil filled? Do you know if it fits the Injora D110 hardbody? I am also wondering where do you lay out the esc and receiver as I dont see where you can replace em
The shocks are not filled with oil. Light oil for lubricant And the receiver and esc are left up to your imagination. I am sure there are aftermarket trays for the scx10 available if your not handy that way
Sorry for failing to answer your question in regards to the d110 hard body, I am unsure of the d110 body as I have never purchased that body or seen one in person in the past. If the d110 body works with a axial scx10 313mm wb then I would say yes the stock injora 313mmwb chassis set would work with tye d110 body, however where I have mounted the scale v8 engine and transmission/transfer case set up, modifications to the d110 may be required for proper fitment. I wish I could help you answer your question better then this. Edit... I have taken a look at the injora website for the d110 hard body and I feel thet that body would work on this chassis with the v8 transmission installed or without the scale v8 transmission , injora does say that body is for the trx4 and scx10. I see it includes a interior kit , but the interior kit was shaped to allow for a center transmission.. If anything you may have to use the adjustable body mounts that the d110 body looks to include and have the body mou t a little higher then you would without the interior kit installed.
Thank you for your question. I guess to answer your questions properly.i nerled to ask you this, are you having this issue with tour motors on this same chassis and does your chassis also have the 2 speed transmission? And 3ed question is the 2 motors you have , did yoy mean to say they are burnt as in dead ?
Honest opinion. Not out of the box. The shocks need to be replaced with a better quality ones that seal better but if your willing to do a bit of upgrading then it is a decent start. This is a clone to the scx10 ii so keep that in mind when considering upgrades. I feel like I have more money I to each of the 3 of these then if I would have just bought a Scx10ii.
You can use many different bodys. A lexan body would be easiest to mount but I have 3 of these with hard shells and full interior kits installed. To install the hardshell with the interior kits, you will find that the body's tend to sit higher then typical. Here is a link to one of the videos that I have a injora brand jeep 4 door w/full I terior kit installed on th-cam.com/video/AsfaYcHEWVU/w-d-xo.html Thank you for checking out my channel
Given this type of transmission I'm not sure that your comment is true... This transmission. Is very similar to that of a gear box found in a cordless drill, and every drill I have taken apart has been greesed. I am no engineer though so I could be the one who's wrong... What is your reasoning to run this pinion gear dry? A typical pinion and spur gear I never grease. Thank you for your comment and taking the time to check out my channel
These are sold at www.injora.com INJORA 313mm Wheelbase Chassis with Prefixal Single/2-Speed Transmissi www.injora.com/products/313mm-wheelbase-chassis-with-prefixal-single-2-speed-transmission-for-scx10-90046 Thank you for stopping by my channel. The above link will take you directly to this chassis
i got one and it was all metal except the axel housings, you must replace the shafts to axial hd shafts and shrink wrap the drive shaft ends. the spring in the cover slips and the grub screw falls out. the prefixal motor setup is silent with my brushless motor.
keep vids coming
As we brake our shafts , i will do the hd upgrades like you mentioned. The shrink wrap tip is a good one , thank you 😊. I did have a center transfer shaft let go but that was on the unit that was treated as a basher, grub screw bavked out. I loaded the red lock tight to the seams on the transfer shaft and then blue lock tight to the grub screws .... no issues since . I love the prefixial transmissions so far and when time comes thati can afford 3 brushless systems . The trucks will see those too. What system are you running. Thank you for leaving your comments and conversation.
*Great Job*
Thank you for the comment and thank you for taking the time to check out my channel
@@rccustomcreations *ok cool*
Deadass I got the regular automatic one not the 2 speed. I slapped on the 2 door Jeep Truck injora hardbody and added extra lubrication for the planetary gears, transfer case (upgraded to aluminum) and both differentials. honestly with the 20T Axial 540 motor w/ a Flysky GT3B transmitter and reciever w/ a Hobbywing 1060 Esc and swamp tires 1.9inch this injora kit moves
pretty nice but yeah, overall nice just verify screw tighteness here and there. I’m running this on 2s nickel hydrite batteries but Lipos would work as well as I was told. the kit is absolutely not perfect I will admit that.
Those axles definitely not a fan of plastic I will be upgrading those to metal soon. the only downside of this injora kit is the motor fitment
It has to be a 540 motor, can’t put a 550 without washers and spacers because of the clearances. it has to be a 12mm or less w/ 3.175-3.17mm kind of shaft at the end of the motor. overall its fun but honestly I was on the fence but overall did save some money.
I find that evert 540 I have installed into this chassis has had to have 3 mm ground off the armeture. And the tight fit for the end ell bearing into the mount plate has caused issues... All quick fixes though. I have upgraded one of 3 of these chassis sets to the aluminum transfer case housing. But want to see if the plastic holds up for what use we will throw at it. I wish there was more metal provided in these kits but feel that is the compromise one has to make for the price we payed. I have yet to put these on any trails. I am still build 3 of these as life has slowed me down a bit.
Thank you for leaving a comment and taking the time to. Heck out my channel
@@rccustomcreations 3mm space you say?! I just saw a part like that for rcs floating around on eBay! I will definitely be looking more into this! I got plans for a 550 12T Glopact with an Esc for this set up
I bought the bare chassis no axles or shafts, was 170ish canadian as i wanted aluminum axles. It comes with aluminum trans mount and transfer case housing. Hard to belive you can get such a solid crawler for the price of an rtr these days
In building 3 of these kits at one time, I decided to go this route but wish I went the bare chassis route. Time will allow me to upgrade each unit at a time. The cost of a decent rc is through the roof to the point that it's almost impossible to get a family Involved kow days. Tha k you for your comment. And checking out my channel content. What part of Canada are you In, I'm in fredericton NB
@@rccustomcreations what are you talking about... i put $2500 in to my wroncho like 8 or 9 years back... ive just built a better rc for $500
@@rccustomcreations NS, not far at all
What axles did you use to keep it at about 500 cnd... Also keep in mind that I had to buy radios for everyone
You channel pic is also an fms 1/18 👍
It sure is. Neat little trucks and cheap to hop up. Thanks for dropping a comment and checking out my channel
@@rccustomcreations yea thanks bro I gonna buy one of those chassis my self 👍
Thanks for posting this video. Do the axles seam decent? Also, what do you do for body mounts on this chassis?
Thank you for viewing my content and leaving a question. The axles come with spiral cut gears wich is surprising and fully set up with ball bearings. So far on my 3 chassis sets , i have had no issues
Im sorry i missed your second question bud, this is a detailed video on how i installed injora magnetic body mounts on these chassis sets to work with the jeep hard shell body kits
th-cam.com/video/FRYt0G6pFiY/w-d-xo.html
mine came with the same axels and they are garbage. the shafts break very quick but if you get axial hd shafts and grind them to fit its much better
I heard of this mod being done and it being a great mod. I have yet to replace any of the axle sets on all 3 trucks that use these axles. I am easy on my truck. My wife runs hers like a basher and my 3 year old sun is all throttle into walls and tall grass getting bound up. No issues. So with that being said. I guess its all in how these get used. Perhaps defective sets do get past quality control . 🤔
@@user-we2js6zw9t Which axle shafts will work with the the Injora axle housing with the offset pumpkin?
Does that come with the motor pinion gear? If not what size do I need?
Yes it includes a pinion gear that is matched for the transmission. That gear is not changeable for other tooth counts...
How do I install a motor on this unit? I'm missing a step somewhere
To install the motor you have to remove a screw from the top of the transmission and one from the bottom that hold the front motor plate and sun gear out of the front of the transmission.
On your motor if it is painted you may have to sand or file then paint off the front bearing housing that goes into the motor plate if the motor wont go in the center hole all the way. ( if your using a brushed motor )
Next step is to i stall your transmission supplied pinion gear. ( not changable for other pinions with more or less teeth) this step is a bit of trial and error . Place your pinion gear into the motor shaft and lightly tighten the grub screw so thag the gear can still slide on the shaft but with slight friction. This is so that once you get the motor seated onto thenplate you can now temporarily install the motor plate and sun gear back into the transmission. ( all your trying to do right now is set the gear to the proper spot-on the shaft) yiu can remove the 3 little gears for this step but do need the plate with the 3 pins for the gears still installed in the transmission.
You will have a large washer looking thing . Leave that out of the transmission for now. When have the sungear and the motor plate pushed all the way into the transmission. Carefully pull it back out and trh not to move the pinion gear. Once you have the assembly removed , carefully tap the face of the pinion gear onto the shaft abiut half a mm more toward the body of your motor and then fully tighten your grub screw.
If you have not installed your motor screws yet then do so but make sure they are not to long . If they are too long you may damage your motor.
Now install your 3 gears if you removed them .
Llace the large washer on top of the 3 gears and then install the motor plate into the transmission
This can take patience as you will have tonplau with gear alignment on all 3 gears if i recall correctly. Once you get all that installed , you need to install the screws into the top and bottom of the transmission that were first removed.
Pro tip... the two threaded screw holes on the front face of the transmission ... after your motor is installed take 2 screws with a washer on each and install those into those two holes. 4mm or 5mm long screws should work ( the goal is to get the washers to tighten io to the facenof the transmission. The washers on each side of the motor plate will help eliminate the side to side play that can happen under normal use ,this play can burn your motors up premature. If this helps you let me know. If you rather watch a video . Give me a couple days and i will record a install video
Is the shock oil filled?
Do you know if it fits the Injora D110 hardbody? I am also wondering where do you lay out the esc and receiver as I dont see where you can replace em
The shocks are not filled with oil. Light oil for lubricant
And the receiver and esc are left up to your imagination. I am sure there are aftermarket trays for the scx10 available if your not handy that way
@@rccustomcreations got it. does it fit the D110 hardbody ?
Sorry for failing to answer your question in regards to the d110 hard body, I am unsure of the d110 body as I have never purchased that body or seen one in person in the past. If the d110 body works with a axial scx10 313mm wb then I would say yes the stock injora 313mmwb chassis set would work with tye d110 body, however where I have mounted the scale v8 engine and transmission/transfer case set up, modifications to the d110 may be required for proper fitment. I wish I could help you answer your question better then this.
Edit... I have taken a look at the injora website for the d110 hard body and I feel thet that body would work on this chassis with the v8 transmission installed or without the scale v8 transmission , injora does say that body is for the trx4 and scx10. I see it includes a interior kit , but the interior kit was shaped to allow for a center transmission.. If anything you may have to use the adjustable body mounts that the d110 body looks to include and have the body mou t a little higher then you would without the interior kit installed.
Can you send me what motor is recommended,because I have two motor burn,35t&55t 540
Thank you for your question. I guess to answer your questions properly.i nerled to ask you this, are you having this issue with tour motors on this same chassis and does your chassis also have the 2 speed transmission? And 3ed question is the 2 motors you have , did yoy mean to say they are burnt as in dead ?
Hey dude! Would you recommend this chassis for nice and smooth ride? Better than SCX10 or Trx4?
Honest opinion. Not out of the box. The shocks need to be replaced with a better quality ones that seal better but if your willing to do a bit of upgrading then it is a decent start. This is a clone to the scx10 ii so keep that in mind when considering upgrades. I feel like I have more money I to each of the 3 of these then if I would have just bought a Scx10ii.
I wonder what kind of body can you use with it
You can use many different bodys. A lexan body would be easiest to mount but I have 3 of these with hard shells and full interior kits installed. To install the hardshell with the interior kits, you will find that the body's tend to sit higher then typical.
Here is a link to one of the videos that I have a injora brand jeep 4 door w/full I terior kit installed on
th-cam.com/video/AsfaYcHEWVU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for checking out my channel
@@rccustomcreations yeah i found a killerboy rc body i want to use.
You don't put grease on pinion and spur
Given this type of transmission I'm not sure that your comment is true... This transmission. Is very similar to that of a gear box found in a cordless drill, and every drill I have taken apart has been greesed. I am no engineer though so I could be the one who's wrong... What is your reasoning to run this pinion gear dry? A typical pinion and spur gear I never grease. Thank you for your comment and taking the time to check out my channel
Can you tell me where you buy this chassis I cannot find it,tia
These are sold at
www.injora.com
INJORA 313mm Wheelbase Chassis with Prefixal Single/2-Speed Transmissi
www.injora.com/products/313mm-wheelbase-chassis-with-prefixal-single-2-speed-transmission-for-scx10-90046
Thank you for stopping by my channel. The above link will take you directly to this chassis