When making cointertops with formica we use dowels or long scraps of wood to hold the sheet goods off the surface of the wood. Then we pull one dowel out at a time allowint the fomica to come into contact. This allows one person to do very large sections alone.
Thanks for mentioning that. We also use dowels on large pieces or when panels need veneer or formica that are not removable from the boat. Sometimes we use plastic slats from window shades instead of dowels. But whenever possible we do it without dowels because there is two of us to handle it and we don't have to wait so long for the contact cement to become perfectly tacked up. Dowels will stick stack to the glue if you're not careful. And sometimes we use the water based cement that always stays sticky and won't allow use of dowels. You can see how we did that with slats in the following video at the 8 minute mark: th-cam.com/video/5x9EWCGHIho/w-d-xo.html
That is a nice classic boat design. I plan to have a series of refit videos coming out in the next few months on a Cape Dory 36 that recently arrived here.
I guess the improved access to the running gear is via the cockpit locker now? And the batteries are now isolated from the bilge in their own space? It all looks great!
A trick I use for laminated counter tops is i get those cheap PVC louvers from home repo or blows cut it apart use the louvers to support the laminate a few inches apart then slowly pull them out one by one as I roll out air bubbles.
will be interesting to see how this boat sails when you finish, these old IOR boats aren't really designed to be loaded up - they had the batteries and water tankage in the bow to counteract the boats tendency to squat in the water and lean on its transom, reducing the waterline and slowing the boat, moving the batteries to just aft of the keel might be ok, but it will be interesting to see, once its sailing can you take a photo of how far the transom sits out of the water?
Good point to be aware of but in this case there is no issue of the stern squatting because the change of 120lbs of batteries forward to 110 lbs aft is more than compensated by the increased anchor chain and increased water tank size under the v-berth. If the bow is too far down with a full water tank he has the option not to fill it all the way or when he wants extra water capacity to carry a couple extra water jugs in cockpit lockers. As far as possible I also don't like loading boats with any more equipment than is really needed. Even so, aside from racing most cruising sailors won't notice these small changes in trim and heavy loads.
I believe it was you who mentioned knowing someone who circumnavigated on a Westerly Centaur which is what I own. I am fitting my boat out for an almost circumnavigation, might your acquaintance have a travelogue posted somewhere? I'd love some advice.
I don't think he posted anything online and his circumnavigation that he began in California took place back in the 1980s. I was aboard his boat a few times in the Indian Ocean and don't recall that he had any special modifications to his boat other than windvane self-steering. The things that would make that boat safer and more comfortable are the same things as most other small boats would need and you can see that on some of my other videos. There are some online Centaur sties you can find with a search or you can join the Plastic Classic Forum if you have questions about fitting out for offshore voyages. I'm a moderator and answer questions there: plasticclassicforum.com/forum/
What’s holding the freezer in place so it doesn’t shift in heavy weather ? Also will you not find access to the batteries difficult with the freezer in situ ?
We hadn't got around to it yet but the idea is that the freezer will be held from sliding around by 4 wood cleats at the bottom sides and held from tipping by quick-release hold-down straps from the two handles straight down to two eye straps. The lithium and AGM batteries are maintenance free and rarely need access but it only takes about one minute to release the two straps, unplug and lift it out. That's one of the many advantages of a portable unit. The owner has not decided yet if he even wants this freezer or a smaller one so I borrowed it from one of our other boats and designed the locker to fit just in case he wants one added.
I like to use marine ply but when cost is an issue, as it often is, we use an exterior grade plywood for these interior cabinets and we always seal or paint all sides and edges of bare wood. Just about any plywood with good waterproof glue is OK but it's hard to know what type glue they used. Maybe a boil test would work. Any plywood exposed on deck needs to be marine and if not you need to take extra care when sealing it, preferably under epoxy and glass. Keep in mind that deck cores are balsa which is an even more rot prone wood so if the ply is sealed well enough it will be alright for a long time.
I love all your upgrades, thank you for sharing them with us!
Another lesson in craftsmanship, ty.
Thanks for sharing. Great mods to the boat.
Wow, finished result looks great.
When making cointertops with formica we use dowels or long scraps of wood to hold the sheet goods off the surface of the wood. Then we pull one dowel out at a time allowint the fomica to come into contact. This allows one person to do very large sections alone.
Thanks for mentioning that. We also use dowels on large pieces or when panels need veneer or formica that are not removable from the boat. Sometimes we use plastic slats from window shades instead of dowels. But whenever possible we do it without dowels because there is two of us to handle it and we don't have to wait so long for the contact cement to become perfectly tacked up. Dowels will stick stack to the glue if you're not careful. And sometimes we use the water based cement that always stays sticky and won't allow use of dowels. You can see how we did that with slats in the following video at the 8 minute mark: th-cam.com/video/5x9EWCGHIho/w-d-xo.html
Impressive work. I have a smaller version of that freezer from Amazon and am looking forward to seeing how it fares in the long haul.
Wish someone with a Pearson Rhodes 41 would have you do a voyager edition with an outboard conversion - she would look nice.
That is a nice classic boat design. I plan to have a series of refit videos coming out in the next few months on a Cape Dory 36 that recently arrived here.
I guess the improved access to the running gear is via the cockpit locker now? And the batteries are now isolated from the bilge in their own space? It all looks great!
In a future video you'll see the port cockpit locker has 2 large removable side panels for full access to the engine, prop shaft, etc.
A trick I use for laminated counter tops is i get those cheap PVC louvers from home repo or blows cut it apart use the louvers to support the laminate a few inches apart then slowly pull them out one by one as I roll out air bubbles.
will be interesting to see how this boat sails when you finish, these old IOR boats aren't really designed to be loaded up - they had the batteries and water tankage in the bow to counteract the boats tendency to squat in the water and lean on its transom, reducing the waterline and slowing the boat, moving the batteries to just aft of the keel might be ok, but it will be interesting to see, once its sailing can you take a photo of how far the transom sits out of the water?
Good point to be aware of but in this case there is no issue of the stern squatting because the change of 120lbs of batteries forward to 110 lbs aft is more than compensated by the increased anchor chain and increased water tank size under the v-berth. If the bow is too far down with a full water tank he has the option not to fill it all the way or when he wants extra water capacity to carry a couple extra water jugs in cockpit lockers. As far as possible I also don't like loading boats with any more equipment than is really needed. Even so, aside from racing most cruising sailors won't notice these small changes in trim and heavy loads.
I believe it was you who mentioned knowing someone who circumnavigated on a Westerly Centaur which is what I own. I am fitting my boat out for an almost circumnavigation, might your acquaintance have a travelogue posted somewhere? I'd love some advice.
I don't think he posted anything online and his circumnavigation that he began in California took place back in the 1980s. I was aboard his boat a few times in the Indian Ocean and don't recall that he had any special modifications to his boat other than windvane self-steering. The things that would make that boat safer and more comfortable are the same things as most other small boats would need and you can see that on some of my other videos. There are some online Centaur sties you can find with a search or you can join the Plastic Classic Forum if you have questions about fitting out for offshore voyages. I'm a moderator and answer questions there: plasticclassicforum.com/forum/
What’s holding the freezer in place so it doesn’t shift in heavy weather ? Also will you not find access to the batteries difficult with the freezer in situ ?
We hadn't got around to it yet but the idea is that the freezer will be held from sliding around by 4 wood cleats at the bottom sides and held from tipping by quick-release hold-down straps from the two handles straight down to two eye straps. The lithium and AGM batteries are maintenance free and rarely need access but it only takes about one minute to release the two straps, unplug and lift it out. That's one of the many advantages of a portable unit. The owner has not decided yet if he even wants this freezer or a smaller one so I borrowed it from one of our other boats and designed the locker to fit just in case he wants one added.
Love it!
What type of plywood do you use for bulkheads and do you use different types in different situations?
I like to use marine ply but when cost is an issue, as it often is, we use an exterior grade plywood for these interior cabinets and we always seal or paint all sides and edges of bare wood. Just about any plywood with good waterproof glue is OK but it's hard to know what type glue they used. Maybe a boil test would work. Any plywood exposed on deck needs to be marine and if not you need to take extra care when sealing it, preferably under epoxy and glass. Keep in mind that deck cores are balsa which is an even more rot prone wood so if the ply is sealed well enough it will be alright for a long time.
Hey how are you sir. I have a couple of questions and was wondering if I can email you for some advice if that’s okay?.
My email address is at the bottom of the page at atomvoyages.com
There is no need to hammer it , better press it with another peace of wood from equal size an some clamps or something heavy ...