Quiet a longer time to reach 350 degrees when comparing your 3 min 13 sec. Got an older unit. it took from living room temp 30 to max 350 degrees 2 min 35 sec. and to reach 300 it was a tad under 2 minutes... it peaks around 55 watt on the units screen-info Was running it from a PD powerbank (QD188PD), as I only went for the unit alone (66US) and not the PSU incl. vers.. but its an older revisions from 2021 rev 2.01 and hw 1.50 so likely that things been changed, as your unit do differ on its value with ver 2.11 and hw 1.60 3:51 Its a charming little unit..very well-built, and its positive that you can turn off the tiltfunction and use it in 360 usecases, if you wanna melt, fuse, heat something.... tested the accuracy on my unit which were spot on, and cycle wth a few degrees to each side, when settling and also the plate heat-levelness.. looked good / unitform across the plate th-cam.com/video/NQ2crGA-5bk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4ivkovrEJhle8Ldo&t=36 Looks like you can install custom fw on it.. like IronOS, though not something I have tried and got no idea of what benefits you optain with this IronOS or if you optain higher wattage or temp or if its only UI customisation...
Very neat review. Was just wondering though, as I have a small rp2040 project coming up. While I can spring for one of these no problem, was wondering if a simple aluminum or copper board supported above something like a candle would work in a pinch? I've got an laser temp gun, and while fine temp control might not be there, gross control via raising or lowering the board or candle/sterno seems intuitive. Maybe posting at 0547 is not ideal...
Flame under a plate will not work (I tried this many years ago :-). The issue is that the heating would not be uniform and you would not be able to control the temperature easily. It may be easier to modify a toaster oven for reflowing.
What is switching the heating element on/off. I expected a high current MOSFET in either a TO-220 or surface mount D-Pak package. Is there a larger version of this? I want to pre heat larger boards such as graphics cards to reflow the GPU. 3cm x 3cm hot plate is tiny. 10cmx10cm would be more useful.
That's an excellent question. I took a look at the high resolution pictures again (www.kerrywong.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/circuitboard2.jpg) and the only component that could possibly be a MOSFET is the SOT23 device in the middle (IALLM), but the switching current is at roughly 3A. You saw my measurement of the pins from the hot plate itself. The two pins measured 6.4 Ohm are clearly for the heating element so the MOSFET can't be on the hotplate either.
It's a pretty low current, so it doesn't need to be a large package that needs to dissipate 50 watts on a heatsink. A modern low-loss MOSFET in a SOT23 will do.
I don't recommend buying. It costs inadequate money, the controls are inconvenient. I have never used mine; it broke during storage. Correspondence showed that the manufacturer is not interested in these problems. There is some small guarantee that requires documents, and nothing can be decided outside of it. It is impossible to buy a heating pad separately; It’s unclear why they made him replaceable.
What a nicely designed device !
Quiet a longer time to reach 350 degrees when comparing your 3 min 13 sec.
Got an older unit. it took from living room temp 30 to max 350 degrees 2 min 35 sec. and to reach 300 it was a tad under 2 minutes... it peaks around 55 watt on the units screen-info
Was running it from a PD powerbank (QD188PD), as I only went for the unit alone (66US) and not the PSU incl. vers..
but its an older revisions from 2021 rev 2.01 and hw 1.50 so likely that things been changed, as your unit do differ on its value with ver 2.11 and hw 1.60 3:51
Its a charming little unit..very well-built, and its positive that you can turn off the tiltfunction and use it in 360 usecases, if you wanna melt, fuse, heat something.... tested the accuracy on my unit which were spot on, and cycle wth a few degrees to each side, when settling and also the plate heat-levelness.. looked good / unitform across the plate th-cam.com/video/NQ2crGA-5bk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4ivkovrEJhle8Ldo&t=36
Looks like you can install custom fw on it.. like IronOS, though not something I have tried and got no idea of what benefits you optain with this IronOS or if you optain higher wattage or temp or if its only UI customisation...
Would you say there is ambient heat that extends above the hot plate or is the heat pretty contained to the plate itself?
Do they sell replacement hot plates yet? I recall then not being available when they came out
doubt they will do that since there is no miniware anymore. they got renamed to 'morningtools' or something like that.
What do you think of the MHP50?
Could you power this by plugging the usb cable into a laptop or a power bank?
If they can do PD. The hotplate will not work at 5V.
Very neat review.
Was just wondering though, as I have a small rp2040 project coming up.
While I can spring for one of these no problem, was wondering if a simple aluminum or copper board supported above something like a candle would work in a pinch?
I've got an laser temp gun, and while fine temp control might not be there, gross control via raising or lowering the board or candle/sterno seems intuitive.
Maybe posting at 0547 is not ideal...
Flame under a plate will not work (I tried this many years ago :-). The issue is that the heating would not be uniform and you would not be able to control the temperature easily. It may be easier to modify a toaster oven for reflowing.
Yes: use a Chinese restaurant food warmer. It'll work fine.
100Ohms for the TC sounds like it could be a Pt100 device.
What is switching the heating element on/off. I expected a high current MOSFET in either a TO-220 or surface mount D-Pak package.
Is there a larger version of this? I want to pre heat larger boards such as graphics cards to reflow the GPU. 3cm x 3cm hot plate is tiny. 10cmx10cm would be more useful.
That's an excellent question. I took a look at the high resolution pictures again (www.kerrywong.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/circuitboard2.jpg) and the only component that could possibly be a MOSFET is the SOT23 device in the middle (IALLM), but the switching current is at roughly 3A. You saw my measurement of the pins from the hot plate itself. The two pins measured 6.4 Ohm are clearly for the heating element so the MOSFET can't be on the hotplate either.
It's a pretty low current, so it doesn't need to be a large package that needs to dissipate 50 watts on a heatsink. A modern low-loss MOSFET in a SOT23 will do.
Miniware just posted a video of a new MHP50 hot plate, it has fan cooling & is twice the size of the MHP30, looks good
mâm nhôm dùng Wire Nichrome gì ?
😮
It’s so small that it’s hard to believe it could really be useful. But it is. So weird.
What a weird take
I don't recommend buying. It costs inadequate money, the controls are inconvenient. I have never used mine; it broke during storage. Correspondence showed that the manufacturer is not interested in these problems. There is some small guarantee that requires documents, and nothing can be decided outside of it. It is impossible to buy a heating pad separately; It’s unclear why they made him replaceable.
Talk about pointless over engineering that improves absolutely nothing.