You are right about not trying to cover the whole strop with compound but the reason is you will always put it too thick, after time the whole surface will be covered by a very thin film of compound and the strop will work better and better. And your point about oil is well taken with one exception. Oil works well to adhere powdered abrasives. In the USA the standard compound for leathercraft is white jewelers rouge. I prefer black I find it works a little quicker when I have neglected my edge but always finish with green. I get my green honing compound from Lee Valley tools. I have no idea if it is any better but I know Leonard Lee spent many many years researching and writing his book on sharpening and I trust him ( most of my tools are 50 to 100 years old so not many issues with much harder tool steels) by the way I have been sharpening edge tools for leather and woodworking for 40 years and have made every mistake possible in sharpening equipment. Like most of your videos that I have seen, very well done
Bark River white compound alone is popular with those using power belts. For strops, the BR green is probably the most popular. I use BR black then BR green then BR white compounds on strops after sharpening with stones and to maintain the edge.
Almost didn't watch, but hung in there.... Wow! 😲So glad I did!!! My first video was "making your own strop." 🧐It got me curious to hear more about the compounds as I'm new to the sharpening world.🤔 Thank you so much for these remarkably well done videos. I really appreciate the thought and time you put in to produce them.👍 Your newest fan!👏👏👏😁
What confuses me is that dialux black is (according to the manufacturer) for silver. Is this something that concerns us using it for leather tools, as these are made from steel?
If you want to view the chart that covers all the Dialux Compounds and their uses go here; www.eternaltools.com/blog/how-to-polish-metals-and-plastics-using-dialux-compounds I highly recommend them cheap and as effective as anything I've ever used.
Very nice video after 3 years, ok why no oils at all? It's really confusing when everyone have a different opinion 🙈 for kitchen knife sharpening, what do you recommend as the first dialux? Black or white? I love courser toothy edge so you know.
Great video. It makes sense for the Picasso (like the famous artist 🎨) compound to contain ceramic if it's for super steels. I mean, don't you have to use ceramic or diamond plates for super steels because they destroy regular wet sharpening stones.
Hey fujitive, what prison did you escape from. Your response is very telling of who and what you are and are aware of/ hope the ptison guards capture you before you actually do some harm/
Hello Jun! Good comprehensive video my friend. Thank you. One question: would you say that the Dialux black is comparable to Bark River black? I've been using the Bark River black and white for years but am interested to try some new products (saves me having to purchase from the US too). I was also very intersted to see that you construct your strops with skin out. That's interesting: I've always made my strops the other way around. Something else to try! Oh and did you see that Terrick gave you a plug? Good wishes Philip
Thanks Philip for comment. Comparing Bark river Black with Dialux Black is interesting topic. I should do comparison video later on but I need something to "measure" the effect scientifically. until then you can let me know how you feel too. I just saw Terrick's video on my video, Thanks for the heads up!
maybe a simple jig to drag a (or pair) chisel edge with a specific weight holding it down for X number of passes on the strop/ compound, compare same blade metals with different compounds for the same # of strokes under the same weight. That would be fairly scientific. Then off to a filament/ weight sharpness tester!
Grab a knife and flip it over so the spine is resting flat and parallel to the strop, press down and scrape the spine down the strop as many times as needed to clear the build up. You'll see it very clearly scraping away, after a few passes it will look as good as new.
ah!!! Cindy!!! You have a youtube channel! this is so cool! I just subscribed to your channel. please upload more videos, I would like to see them coming.
@@cindyhuang9320 oh you arrived Japan, take a good rest, Cindy. I thank you again for your kindness at the fair. : ) please drop me an email! I need your contact for my next Japan trip!
Hallo, ich habe mit Autosol jetzt noch echt viel nach dem schleifen rausholen können. Aber so als Ziel wäre ich auf dem Weg zu ner spiegelnden Klinge. Mit welchen Compounds würdest du ab da weiter machen?
The white one is have bigger particles than black one,White is used for polishing,and black for mirror polishing. In short,the white is coarser than the black. You can check here for more info : drive.google.com/file/d/16htS_KiA5K9YYUOMd0IecHKzFklo0sI_/view?usp=drivesdk
Thank you again for great information. My strops are unfortunately somewhat caked with long time use. Should I or can I scrape off the build up compound or toss them and start new? I have several shapes for specialized wood carving tools.
This video is based on hardware products Definitely non professional Japanese knife makers always use professional compounds Including wax sticks with high concentration of chromium oxide. That is just one small example This video is a basic instruction for early amateur stroppers. Next time I would like you to explain the micron sizing of each of these compounds.
What an asinine comment. I've been watching knife sharpening & stopping videos for years. From true knife designers and sharpeners like David C Anderson at Knife Center to Jared Neeves of Neeves Knives. They don't overcomplicate things with all that crap. They do exactly what this guy did. They kept it simple. Most TH-camrs aren't going to set & watch an hour long video with complicated graphics and charts, FFS. That said, the knife pros all have their own way of sharpening their knives. Especially James Gibson. They tell say it's up to you to get into a flow based on your own knives & how you use them. Apparently you get off on complaining about someones video.
Complaining, correct/ you who does not understand the first or last of abrasives, seem to be speaklng out of your behind. You know zero about professional abrasives/ go to your local hardware store and sniff some more glue.
@@randystrand908 you are correct. Unfortunately , most of all are incorrect for any [professional purpose/ whatever the title states, finding crap in the waste basket, doesn't translate to a good thing!
![โรงเรียนตอนตี 2 โคตรหลอน..!! [โรงเรียนไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2MAEMwqVYh8/mqdefault.jpg)
BUY DIALUX BLACK HERE : amzn.to/3202p3r
BUY DIALUX GREEN HERE : amzn.to/2V45f69
All of my recommended lists are here: www.amazon.com/shop/leathertoolz
You are right about not trying to cover the whole strop with compound but the reason is you will always put it too thick, after time the whole surface will be covered by a very thin film of compound and the strop will work better and better. And your point about oil is well taken with one exception. Oil works well to adhere powdered abrasives. In the USA the standard compound for leathercraft is white jewelers rouge. I prefer black I find it works a little quicker when I have neglected my edge but always finish with green. I get my green honing compound from Lee Valley tools. I have no idea if it is any better but I know Leonard Lee spent many many years researching and writing his book on sharpening and I trust him ( most of my tools are 50 to 100 years old so not many issues with much harder tool steels) by the way I have been sharpening edge tools for leather and woodworking for 40 years and have made every mistake possible in sharpening equipment. Like most of your videos that I have seen, very well done
Very nice explanation of the various compounds and when and how to use them!
My man laying down the knowledge! Thanks buddy.
Bark River white compound alone is popular with those using power belts. For strops, the BR green is probably the most popular. I use BR black then BR green then BR white compounds on strops after sharpening with stones and to maintain the edge.
I appreciate your research and explanation. -Thank you from Aurora, IL USA.
Great video! Learned a lot. Thank you for your video & time👍 All the best 🙏
Almost didn't watch, but hung in there....
Wow! 😲So glad I did!!! My first video was "making your own strop." 🧐It got me curious to hear more about the compounds as I'm new to the sharpening world.🤔
Thank you so much for these remarkably well done videos. I really appreciate the thought and time you put in to produce them.👍
Your newest fan!👏👏👏😁
Excellent information not generally discussed. Many thanks.
What confuses me is that dialux black is (according to the manufacturer) for silver. Is this something that concerns us using it for leather tools, as these are made from steel?
Very informative and great explanation. Thank you.
For dialux I recommend you get red and gray The red is the fine and gray is coarse
You are a treasure chest of technical information
If you want to view the chart that covers all the Dialux Compounds and their uses go here; www.eternaltools.com/blog/how-to-polish-metals-and-plastics-using-dialux-compounds I highly recommend them cheap and as effective as anything I've ever used.
Thanks! The chart they have on the website is quite helpful.
Would’ve been knife to see a knife stropped and a cut test
Very nice video after 3 years, ok why no oils at all? It's really confusing when everyone have a different opinion 🙈 for kitchen knife sharpening, what do you recommend as the first dialux? Black or white? I love courser toothy edge so you know.
Great video, I learned a lot.
Great video. It makes sense for the Picasso (like the famous artist 🎨) compound to contain ceramic if it's for super steels. I mean, don't you have to use ceramic or diamond plates for super steels because they destroy regular wet sharpening stones.
Hey fujitive, what prison did you escape from. Your response is very telling of who and what you are and are aware of/ hope the ptison guards capture you before you actually do some harm/
A simple 6 micron diamond emulsion will do a better job than ANY of those, followed by a 2 micron to finish.
21:30 One of the ingredients for the "Picasso" Platinum blue is 'FLAVOR'. ?
Maybe it’s a dental polishing compound???
My leather is 5mm thick ? Is this wrong for stropping? Thank you
Hello Jun! Good comprehensive video my friend. Thank you. One question: would you say that the Dialux black is comparable to Bark River black? I've been using the Bark River black and white for years but am interested to try some new products (saves me having to purchase from the US too). I was also very intersted to see that you construct your strops with skin out. That's interesting: I've always made my strops the other way around. Something else to try! Oh and did you see that Terrick gave you a plug? Good wishes Philip
Thanks Philip for comment. Comparing Bark river Black with Dialux Black is interesting topic. I should do comparison video later on but I need something to "measure" the effect scientifically. until then you can let me know how you feel too. I just saw Terrick's video on my video, Thanks for the heads up!
maybe a simple jig to drag a (or pair) chisel edge with a specific weight holding it down for X number of passes on the strop/ compound, compare same blade metals with different compounds for the same # of strokes under the same weight. That would be fairly scientific. Then off to a filament/ weight sharpness tester!
I just love this video!
I use the green for my straight razors
Thanks i need this info
Thank you 👌
Do you have any opinion on luxor merard compounds ? Thank you
Name some alternative of compounds
Blue Rouge
What about red?
How do you clean the strop after the strop gets a buildup from many applications?
Grab a knife and flip it over so the spine is resting flat and parallel to the strop, press down and scrape the spine down the strop as many times as needed to clear the build up.
You'll see it very clearly scraping away, after a few passes it will look as good as new.
Great video.
Can one apply a black compound this time and a green one the next time to the same side of the strop?
The bark river instruction sheet that comes with the compound says to never mix different types of compound.
One? Anyone who refers to themselves as one is bent and needs a slap
Hey you got nice videos!!! This is Cindy^^
ah!!! Cindy!!! You have a youtube channel! this is so cool! I just subscribed to your channel. please upload more videos, I would like to see them coming.
Haha I wish I could but after start working life I don’t really travel a lot 😁
@@cindyhuang9320 your travel VLOG is highly addictive. I am watching them all.
You’re so kind Jun😊
Thanks for loving that😁
Still suffering from jet lag
@@cindyhuang9320 oh you arrived Japan, take a good rest, Cindy.
I thank you again for your kindness at the fair. : )
please drop me an email! I need your contact for my next Japan trip!
Hallo, ich habe mit Autosol jetzt noch echt viel nach dem schleifen rausholen können. Aber so als Ziel wäre ich auf dem Weg zu ner spiegelnden Klinge. Mit welchen Compounds würdest du ab da weiter machen?
Where can I get a printout of that sharpness guide
It should be available in the future
Ya?
Do you absolutely need leather ?
Denim and some micro fibers work
No, you can put the compound directly on a piece of MDF
I have Dialux White - is ok also or do I need to buy green/black? Thx
white is pretty good too. use Black first and then white. it's really good
The white one is have bigger particles than black one,White is used for polishing,and black for mirror polishing. In short,the white is coarser than the black. You can check here for more info : drive.google.com/file/d/16htS_KiA5K9YYUOMd0IecHKzFklo0sI_/view?usp=drivesdk
Thank you again for great information. My strops are unfortunately somewhat caked with long time use. Should I or can I scrape off the build up compound or toss them and start new? I have several shapes for specialized wood carving tools.
Olive oil, rub it into strop, wipe with kitchen roll, repeat until clean.....
@@philpriestman627 Or mineral oil.
@@philpriestman627 kitchen roll?
nice
This video is based on hardware products
Definitely non professional
Japanese knife makers always use professional compounds
Including wax sticks with high concentration of chromium oxide. That is just one small example
This video is a basic instruction for early amateur stroppers. Next time I would like you to explain the micron sizing of each of these compounds.
What an asinine comment. I've been watching knife sharpening & stopping videos for years. From true knife designers and sharpeners like David C Anderson at Knife Center to Jared Neeves of Neeves Knives.
They don't overcomplicate things with all that crap. They do exactly what this guy did. They kept it simple. Most TH-camrs aren't going to set & watch an hour long video with complicated graphics and charts, FFS.
That said, the knife pros all have their own way of sharpening their knives. Especially James Gibson. They tell say it's up to you to get into a flow based on your own knives & how you use them.
Apparently you get off on complaining about someones video.
Complaining, correct/ you who does not understand the first or last of abrasives, seem to be speaklng out of your behind. You know zero about professional abrasives/ go to your local hardware store and sniff some more glue.
He announced at the start, he would be reviewing products readily available to the public!!!
@@randystrand908 you are correct. Unfortunately , most of all are incorrect for any [professional purpose/ whatever the title states, finding crap in the waste basket, doesn't translate to a good thing!
"Stroping Compound EXPLAINED!" Should read "stropping spelled wrong".
You remind me of someone squeezing on a gnat whilst trying to swallow a camel
There are other videos with spelling lessons. I'm here to learn about stopping compounds. And I think literally everyone else is too.
Stropping* Compounds* - get the title right.