I'm preparing for this job myself. My wife's Escape started to throw belts at 120K miles. One thing you forgot to mention is the cable linkage (yellow plastic cap) that's in the way of the third bolt. You must unclip it and move it out of the way to get access. It's also easier to remove the thermostat housing first.
Hey, did you had any issues with the heater system after you worked on it ? My one doesn't heat at idle, well it heats but not at the right temperature, unless it's driven. I've replaced the water pump and thermostat (2 thermostats actually), and in the winter time still not getting in temperature at idle only. Can't have it getting hot and ready to melt the ice on the windshield. I believe I've done the correct procedure on refiling with coolant so there should be no air pockets.... It's like my new thermostats are still staying open and engine only gets hot enough when I drive the car. Can't understand what the heck it's going on.
@008Sercanu no not at all. Everything has been functioning the way it should. I believe it's an air pocket. Dismantle the far end hose that comes out of the heater core. Start up the car and see if water cycles through it when engine temperature rises. Try to suck water out from that hose to get any air pockets out.
Hi Scott If you mean the larger pulley which the other side of the belt is connected to, Don't believe so. I had to attach the belt with zip ties to it then cranked the engine and killed it quickly to get the belt to sit on it.
Since I save money on labor, I always pick high end parts. I replaced it with motor craft brand water pump which is what Ford recommends. No leaks or any heating issue. Coolant Reservoir is still full from that time. Just make sure to vent the system by loosing the Allen bolt on the top of water pump housing ... I mentioned that at the end of the installation video. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Removing it was pretty much straight forward. We are talking around half an hour to 40 mints. Installing on the other hand need more dedication especially when applying sealers so it took me an hour then top it with another one since I trouble shot taking air bubbles out the system which the maintenance manual didn't mention it.
I'm preparing for this job myself. My wife's Escape started to throw belts at 120K miles. One thing you forgot to mention is the cable linkage (yellow plastic cap) that's in the way of the third bolt. You must unclip it and move it out of the way to get access. It's also easier to remove the thermostat housing first.
Hey, did you had any issues with the heater system after you worked on it ?
My one doesn't heat at idle, well it heats but not at the right temperature, unless it's driven. I've replaced the water pump and thermostat (2 thermostats actually), and in the winter time still not getting in temperature at idle only. Can't have it getting hot and ready to melt the ice on the windshield. I believe I've done the correct procedure on refiling with coolant so there should be no air pockets.... It's like my new thermostats are still staying open and engine only gets hot enough when I drive the car. Can't understand what the heck it's going on.
@008Sercanu no not at all. Everything has been functioning the way it should.
I believe it's an air pocket.
Dismantle the far end hose that comes out of the heater core. Start up the car and see if water cycles through it when engine temperature rises.
Try to suck water out from that hose to get any air pockets out.
Thank for the video. where did you get the water pump? part number?
Rockauto.com .
I chose the motorcraft.
What did you uses to remove the 3rd bolt below the thermostat housing?
Please tell me which time stamp so I have a better idea.. thanks
Around 11:16 when your trying to take the last bolt off the water pump
And was your coolant green? Coz ford gave me a gold one for my 2010 escape
I got mine from the auto shop which has light green color. I believe it should be the same
I had to put the car gear on L so the transmission cable and plastic piece move a way a bit and free some space
Is the larger pulley supposed to turn freely?
Hi Scott
If you mean the larger pulley which the other side of the belt is connected to,
Don't believe so.
I had to attach the belt with zip ties to it then cranked the engine and killed it quickly to get the belt to sit on it.
How many miles did you have on it when your water pump froze?
140K miles... Original pump was in so I bought motor craft brand. Looks like they last for good.
my 2012 went out at 112k, my buddy's 2009 went out at 107k
mine went out at 100k 😬
Great video man... What brand of water pump did you use? I know it's been almost 2 years... Have you had any troubles with it?
Since I save money on labor, I always pick high end parts.
I replaced it with motor craft brand water pump which is what Ford recommends.
No leaks or any heating issue. Coolant Reservoir is still full from that time.
Just make sure to vent the system by loosing the Allen bolt on the top of water pump housing ... I mentioned that at the end of the installation video.
Good luck and thanks for watching.
excellent video!
Thanks Jimmy.. if you have any question let me know.
How long did it take to replace the pump start to finish?
Removing it was pretty much straight forward. We are talking around half an hour to 40 mints.
Installing on the other hand need more dedication especially when applying sealers so it took me an hour then top it with another one since I trouble shot taking air bubbles out the system which the maintenance manual didn't mention it.
great vid
Hero walker I appreciate your feedback. Plz check the installation as it has an air bleeding trick for the system to work right.
you need more lighting can't see what you doing