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@@Rek_Rc yes I agree they can be great cars, once fully upgraded from plastic parts. Even the gear internals are plastic which are a bit mad since tamiya is so expensive! Love the brand but comon here, at least make high ware parts a bit more durable 😌
@@wltoysxtreme I totally agree about the gearing. For plastic they aren't the worst, but certainly could do better with metal. The stock main drive shaft is total junk, if you apply any power aside from the brushed motor it comes with, the main shaft bends and pulls the spur to the edge of the mesh and just shaves it down instantly. If they charged a little more I'd be willing to pay it for a metal drivetrain out of the box.
Tamiya TT02 got me back in the hobby. I spend a LOT of money on it making it faster with the max gearing without cutting the gearbox cover. I'm too ashamed to tell you the cost at the end but it goes 95km/h. Since a few months i discovered MJX and realized that the chinese made some serious steps an offer waaay more for waaaay less money. Got my hyper go 14301 to 125 km/h for 150 euros with way better handling. But still want to say, thank you tamiya for getting me back to the hobby. Love your video's Phil. Greets from a fellow aircraft engineer in the netherlands.
I mean no malice in this and it's admirable that you have shown it. But I love to see youTubers fail once in a while. It shows your human side. I crash or break something almost every time I go out and sometimes just want to give it all up. Keep up the fine work Phil.
That paint job is awesome. My uncle was in the RAF, and also worked on Tornados. My grandfather worked for DeHavilland and worked on the prototype Mosquito. My favourite aircraft ever. Anyway. I love your channel Phil. Great reviews, and very informative. Gives me the motivation to get my RCs out.
That Limitless body is absolutely spectacular!😮😮 I have a thing for the military aircraft design- paint schemes, I absolutely knew I had to have one of those TA Reflex14 b the instant I saw it! Now I have several 1/14 scale cars and an appropriately sized track in the back yard Just got my first LC Racing buggy thanks in part to your vids on them . Thanks for the great content!
Hi Tomley. Spent my first years speedrunning wondering the same thing. The ESC is cutting because of your connectors, they HAVE to be 8mm with that many amps, but even with the 8mm the Hobbywing will cut. You should be golden next year for that PB!
Thank you for your service. New to the channel and love it! First car was a Tamiya Super Shot, 1986-ish I believe I had it. Looking to get back into the hobby. I want to build it, so Tamiya seems like the best and most cost effective choice. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Well, I don't believe it... I've just come across an older video of Tomleys that I HAVEN'T WATCHED.!!!! I'm currently rectifying my oversight..!! 👍 👍 👍
awesome video tomley bro and ive got the hobao vte2 kit also hoping to have it done for next year for rossa and ill be there also with you so hopefully we can both hit new speeds :) looking forward to it
Dang. Sorry to here it didn't work out. It almost makes me want to find a TA04 to try with. (But mostly because I've been eyeing one to go with the TA04 Corvette body that I've had and used on my own first speed run attempts) Any how, bestbof luck with your next car. Cheers!
Isn’t the cut usually happen when the motor and wax draw to many amps from the lipo’s. Wont higher powered lipo’s fix that There’s a possibility one of the solder points may be a little less then capable of the high amp draw. But then a wire would in solder you’d think. Keep on the great vids Tomley 👌😉
The Limitless body is fantastic. It has such detail and also meaning behind. It's one of the best I have ever seen. You mentioned the old truck body for your TA04 was the one you used to reach 78mph. I would suggest that the truck body might be faster. Many, many years ago in the U.S. there was an oval class called Trinity Street Spec. The cars were cheap pan cars with NASCAR bodies. There was also a class for NASTRUCK bodies. They were equally as fast was the car bodies. Although you made a lot of changes, the truck body might be faster.
I have the same Limitless setup. That Hobbywing is holding you back. I took the Hobbywing out and put in the XLX2 in with the same gearing and battery's i went from 109 to 119MPH.
I'm no Inspector Clouseau, but the car had massive rear instability... before the rear wheel fell off. Also, the body has tons of rear lift, and I suspect that a rigid rear suspension would only work with lots of downforce.
Just rewatched this video. Do you really think the solid rear is a good idea? Hitting the smallest stone at 60mph would upset the whole chassis and steering I think. Having some light spring and a little damping would let the rear wheels to move and not upset the chassis dynamics! Just been running my wltoys 10428 over grass and noticed how much the rear wheels move but chassis doesn't!! Just a thought. Always enjoy videos, keep it up.
Awww, that's shame! Never mind, though. Turn it back to a touring car and build it into a proper handling machine- car park basher / retro racer. You've got lots of stuff that can be quick in a straight line. Build that into something quick through the corners! Our old race club had a TA-04S and the thing was on rails! All the best.
After working for a hobby shop in the northeastern US, I learned we couldn’t even warranty them directly. We had to make the customer go through the process themselves. The Horizon Hobby stuff I could warranty easy, but the castle stuff would show problems with 3/4 customers who bought them, and castle support is junk so I couldn’t help them. Castle is Traxxas, which is junk. But then again, everything in the hobby is overpriced and junk, all of it.
I'm finding that out now myself, and the main difference is parts availability and price. Most if not all is made in China. Thankfully, some far off parts are sold by US vendors through Amazon, so some stuff you can get quickly.
It’s funny I’ve had nothing but excellent support and warranty from castle and I’m in Australia! Maybe it’s because inspection of the data logs confirm that what I stated in the letter provided to them was indeed correct! not saying everyone lies to them but I’d say a good portion of warranty claims are indeed false! Often being operator error! Incorrect polarity,poor cell performance,overloading,impact damage, incorrect application just to name a few that they would deal with! I’m done with idiots too so if you try to pull a fast one don’t be surprised if they don’t get back to you!
@@needmoreboost6369 If castle can’t make an ESC that’s “impact rated” or can’t run on some older tired LiPos, then it’s an inferior product. Period. Because other manufacturers ESC’s don’t have the same issues. A hobbywing max10 can take a little tough love. I can’t breath the air in the same room as a copperhead 10 without it getting wildly upset. Castle makes underperforming products and have poor customer service, but has a strong enough following of fanboys that buy their products at ABSURD price points without hesitation. They don’t need to change a thing. Nevermind the poor quality and aging designs (talking about their software programs as well, it’s not 2003 on an old Windows 98 machine) everything is heavily overpriced. I really do dislike the “well if you were better with your stuff”… it’s a hobby consisting of young people and adults who behave like young people… if you’re ESC can’t handle a middle schooler having fun in the backyard, it’s not worth buying. That’s not even my opinion, that’s a common sense thing?
@@needmoreboost6369 I've seen otherwise decent and trustworthy people lie through their teeth to avoid paying for their own mistakes. It's disheartening, and I would not want to own an RC electronics company. It has to be among the worst for false warranty claims.
I didn't know you were in the Militry. Awesome stuff. That body is really nice. Ummm, did you try using a gyro on that Tamiya chassis? Might have helped.
a decade of sedan racing tells me its the boxy sedan body im afraid, without a big tail on it the center of pressure is up where the windscreen is. which makes it really squirrely at speed(but great for tight tracks!). toe in both ends, drop in a front 1-way bearing, and get a whale tail on it, you'll blow past the PB.
Did you check the steering linkage and servo on the TA4? I struggled keeping the Rlaarlo straight and lastly found out the servo had a massive slop....
We’re in the poor boys RC tt02 speed run challenge. It’s hard to get these TT02 cars to handle high power. We have the power and gearing to do well over 100 but so far can’t get over 35 without spinning out. I put a differential back in the rear so hopefully that helps us with the spinning out. There’s guys going 101-110 mph currently..
The funny thing is I’ve had the opposite experience with escs. I’ve had a max 6 go up in flames along with a spektrum but never a castle. I ran a smoking mamba monster for 3 batts without flames(I wanted to see how far it would go before total failure. It was cutting in and out but never gave out completely). I guess I must be a fanboy but I’ve beat on every castle system I’ve had and they just seen to work for me lol.
Don't be a quitter. Everytime you run it you learn something. Just switch it to a fun thing instead of a super serious effort. Taking the pressure off may let it surprise you
You can get that to the speed you looking for. You just have to spend some money. But if you take a team Trinity drag motor combine it with a 4S ESC like a RX8. Running on 4S with shocks off of 1/8 scale on road car. You'll hit that hundred miles an hour or more
Skip the xlx2 and go right to the Max4. The xlx2 is a fire ball waiting to destroy your RC's. Ask me how I know. I have 2 xlx2 sitting on my shelf as replacements for ones that went up in flames a while back. Im afraid to use them after the first ones destroyed my RC's and lipos. If you can set the car up to max the max4 fit, I suggest going that route, plus it gives you 12S as an option if your motor can handle it.
@@mankind8088 There’s a guy who does daily videos on TH-cam and does both of those brands. After a while, they all look and perform the same. Why bother?
Fyi, next time you can try going down in volts. If you're trying to run 8s, drop back to 6s. If you're running 6s drop back to 4s. I'm not saying this is the best way to proceed but it might have bought you some faster speeds at the event.
have you got any to sell around the £200 including postage please looking for a new quick toy but cant be bothered with the painting and building this time around
100mph is still a lot Tomley! Nice work man. I only hit 120kmh on rather road infront of the house. Btw Tomley what was the ESC and Motor u used in ur old 78mph Record?
Just a wag, but with the bumper being that hight I'd say too much air under the car. With the flat piece of plastic under just the center it may have caused some wonky areo afects
I think part of your problem is removing the rear shocks. It seems to be a very questionable move, you do you, but I would imagine removing the rear shocks would make it unstable at high speed.
We typically speak of setting up a car for 140+ and in that scenario, the rear is usually set with 2-4mm travel max. (Almost locked) the higher your speeds the less travel you want in your rear suspension. Front is usually setup where it is only 5-10 mm off the ground. It's travel limit needs to be set just before it touches the surface. He is running on a RC club race strip. The surface should be quite uniform and not require rear suspension the likely problem is the body is creating enough drag to flip the car over onto itself
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This is funny
Top man. Love it.
Hilarious
Cringe
@@calvinl5726 what size did you order?
get the 2028 1700kv castle motor raz did 193 with one. Think the Tamiya needs a rear wing its probably getting lift
Ditch the tamiya, that's the problem
@@wltoysxtreme😂😂😂
@@wltoysxtremeI have a TT-02 that can do around 75. Making a tamiya go fast is easy, driving a Tamiya fast, not so much.
@@Rek_Rc yes I agree they can be great cars, once fully upgraded from plastic parts. Even the gear internals are plastic which are a bit mad since tamiya is so expensive! Love the brand but comon here, at least make high ware parts a bit more durable 😌
@@wltoysxtreme I totally agree about the gearing. For plastic they aren't the worst, but certainly could do better with metal. The stock main drive shaft is total junk, if you apply any power aside from the brushed motor it comes with, the main shaft bends and pulls the spur to the edge of the mesh and just shaves it down instantly. If they charged a little more I'd be willing to pay it for a metal drivetrain out of the box.
that Limitless body is awesome
Tamiya TT02 got me back in the hobby. I spend a LOT of money on it making it faster with the max gearing without cutting the gearbox cover. I'm too ashamed to tell you the cost at the end but it goes 95km/h. Since a few months i discovered MJX and realized that the chinese made some serious steps an offer waaay more for waaaay less money. Got my hyper go 14301 to 125 km/h for 150 euros with way better handling. But still want to say, thank you tamiya for getting me back to the hobby. Love your video's Phil. Greets from a fellow aircraft engineer in the netherlands.
I mean no malice in this and it's admirable that you have shown it. But I love to see youTubers fail once in a while. It shows your human side. I crash or break something almost every time I go out and sometimes just want to give it all up. Keep up the fine work Phil.
"...How good my body looks..." 😏 Pretty sure that was an invitation Tomley...
That paint job is awesome. My uncle was in the RAF, and also worked on Tornados. My grandfather worked for DeHavilland and worked on the prototype Mosquito. My favourite aircraft ever.
Anyway. I love your channel Phil. Great reviews, and very informative. Gives me the motivation to get my RCs out.
Yep . The paint on the limitless is aaaawesome, looks like someone made an Indy car out of a fighter jet 👍 sick
The paint on the limitless is amazing. To hand paint that many rivets, got to have saint levels of patience.
That Limitless body is absolutely spectacular!😮😮
I have a thing for the military aircraft design- paint schemes, I absolutely knew I had to have one of those TA Reflex14 b the instant I saw it!
Now I have several 1/14 scale
cars and an appropriately sized track in the back yard
Just got my first LC Racing buggy thanks in part to your vids on them .
Thanks for the great content!
B-Boy, Pilot, RC Pro, baw Bag…a man of mystery!
Haha
Looks like it needs more toe-in at the rear to keep it stable at speed, also slower steering!
Hi Tomley. Spent my first years speedrunning wondering the same thing. The ESC is cutting because of your connectors, they HAVE to be 8mm with that many amps, but even with the 8mm the Hobbywing will cut. You should be golden next year for that PB!
Hi Tom you sure one of the coolest British TV shows I used to watch one of the black hatter thank you for bringing my childhood thank you😊👍🇬🇧🇺🇲
You’re welcome 🤘
Omg that fighter jet body
When the wheel fell off I nearly cried. Hilarious. I felt your pain and embarrassment!
Rear suspension is a must
Nice Body on the Arrma.
😮😊❤
Thank you for your service. New to the channel and love it! First car was a Tamiya Super Shot, 1986-ish I believe I had it. Looking to get back into the hobby. I want to build it, so Tamiya seems like the best and most cost effective choice. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Well, I don't believe it... I've just come across an older video of Tomleys that I HAVEN'T WATCHED.!!!!
I'm currently rectifying my oversight..!! 👍 👍 👍
The limitless still sounded epic, shame the ESC let you down. At least you got to drive it back to your feet
That’s all lovely RC bro and im enjoy watching in Paris 👍
Better days 🙂 Thank you for the update.
awesome video tomley bro and ive got the hobao vte2 kit also hoping to have it done for next year for rossa and ill be there also with you so hopefully we can both hit new speeds :) looking forward to it
This could be interesting to have. I only have 3 rc cars intended for more road based driving, maybe the could be number 4. nice review.
Dang. Sorry to here it didn't work out. It almost makes me want to find a TA04 to try with. (But mostly because I've been eyeing one to go with the TA04 Corvette body that I've had and used on my own first speed run attempts)
Any how, bestbof luck with your next car. Cheers!
Isn’t the cut usually happen when the motor and wax draw to many amps from the lipo’s.
Wont higher powered lipo’s fix that
There’s a possibility one of the solder points may be a little less then capable of the high amp draw. But then a wire would in solder you’d think.
Keep on the great vids Tomley 👌😉
The Limitless body is fantastic. It has such detail and also meaning behind. It's one of the best I have ever seen. You mentioned the old truck body for your TA04 was the one you used to reach 78mph. I would suggest that the truck body might be faster. Many, many years ago in the U.S. there was an oval class called Trinity Street Spec. The cars were cheap pan cars with NASCAR bodies. There was also a class for NASTRUCK bodies. They were equally as fast was the car bodies. Although you made a lot of changes, the truck body might be faster.
0:57 Oh mate…… I love the Tornado so much…….. Such a beautiful fighter
Yeah, it was an old girl… but loads of character 🤘
I have the same Limitless setup. That Hobbywing is holding you back. I took the Hobbywing out and put in the XLX2 in with the same gearing and battery's i went from 109 to 119MPH.
He's not complaining about power in the Tamiya but trying to keep it in a straight line😂
I was taking about the limitless I edited my other comment to say Limitless. @@gordonscottrc2561
Love the paint job of the tonka 👌
I'm no Inspector Clouseau, but the car had massive rear instability... before the rear wheel fell off. Also, the body has tons of rear lift, and I suspect that a rigid rear suspension would only work with lots of downforce.
Just rewatched this video. Do you really think the solid rear is a good idea? Hitting the smallest stone at 60mph would upset the whole chassis and steering I think. Having some light spring and a little damping would let the rear wheels to move and not upset the chassis dynamics! Just been running my wltoys 10428 over grass and noticed how much the rear wheels move but chassis doesn't!! Just a thought. Always enjoy videos, keep it up.
We have cheap TT02's doing well over 100 on average roads over at the speed runs. Great looking cars.
Awww, that's shame! Never mind, though. Turn it back to a touring car and build it into a proper handling machine- car park basher / retro racer. You've got lots of stuff that can be quick in a straight line. Build that into something quick through the corners! Our old race club had a TA-04S and the thing was on rails! All the best.
Yeah, not a bad shout
After working for a hobby shop in the northeastern US, I learned we couldn’t even warranty them directly. We had to make the customer go through the process themselves. The Horizon Hobby stuff I could warranty easy, but the castle stuff would show problems with 3/4 customers who bought them, and castle support is junk so I couldn’t help them. Castle is Traxxas, which is junk. But then again, everything in the hobby is overpriced and junk, all of it.
I'm finding that out now myself, and the main difference is parts availability and price. Most if not all is made in China. Thankfully, some far off parts are sold by US vendors through Amazon, so some stuff you can get quickly.
It’s funny I’ve had nothing but excellent support and warranty from castle and I’m in Australia! Maybe it’s because inspection of the data logs confirm that what I stated in the letter provided to them was indeed correct! not saying everyone lies to them but I’d say a good portion of warranty claims are indeed false! Often being operator error! Incorrect polarity,poor cell performance,overloading,impact damage, incorrect application just to name a few that they would deal with! I’m done with idiots too so if you try to pull a fast one don’t be surprised if they don’t get back to you!
@@needmoreboost6369 If castle can’t make an ESC that’s “impact rated” or can’t run on some older tired LiPos, then it’s an inferior product. Period. Because other manufacturers ESC’s don’t have the same issues. A hobbywing max10 can take a little tough love. I can’t breath the air in the same room as a copperhead 10 without it getting wildly upset. Castle makes underperforming products and have poor customer service, but has a strong enough following of fanboys that buy their products at ABSURD price points without hesitation. They don’t need to change a thing. Nevermind the poor quality and aging designs (talking about their software programs as well, it’s not 2003 on an old Windows 98 machine) everything is heavily overpriced. I really do dislike the “well if you were better with your stuff”… it’s a hobby consisting of young people and adults who behave like young people… if you’re ESC can’t handle a middle schooler having fun in the backyard, it’s not worth buying. That’s not even my opinion, that’s a common sense thing?
My arrma is a tank but you have to reinforce these darn things they don't come reinforced
@@needmoreboost6369 I've seen otherwise decent and trustworthy people lie through their teeth to avoid paying for their own mistakes. It's disheartening, and I would not want to own an RC electronics company. It has to be among the worst for false warranty claims.
Sorry for your loss.
I didn't know you were in the Militry. Awesome stuff. That body is really nice. Ummm, did you try using a gyro on that Tamiya chassis? Might have helped.
I love it when you get surly.
a decade of sedan racing tells me its the boxy sedan body im afraid, without a big tail on it the center of pressure is up where the windscreen is. which makes it really squirrely at speed(but great for tight tracks!).
toe in both ends, drop in a front 1-way bearing, and get a whale tail on it, you'll blow past the PB.
Good morning Phil glad to watch this with my coffee
Sad about the tamiya, though the new build looks awesome
You got a lot of stuff rc stuff there 👌🏻
great content, as always! cheers, mate!
What did you do in the military? Im guessing since you said you worked on jets you were some sort of mechanic. Cool video mate 🤙
I was an Aircraft Electrician.
Did you check the steering linkage and servo on the TA4? I struggled keeping the Rlaarlo straight and lastly found out the servo had a massive slop....
We’re in the poor boys RC tt02 speed run challenge. It’s hard to get these TT02 cars to handle high power. We have the power and gearing to do well over 100 but so far can’t get over 35 without spinning out. I put a differential back in the rear so hopefully that helps us with the spinning out. There’s guys going 101-110 mph currently..
Try using gyro
Phil, maybe a rear diffuser? It seems to lift the back, might be from the under body aero.
Yeah that TA03 the side sail area of that body is massive. If you've got a good crosswind you're toast.
The funny thing is I’ve had the opposite experience with escs. I’ve had a max 6 go up in flames along with a spektrum but never a castle. I ran a smoking mamba monster for 3 batts without flames(I wanted to see how far it would go before total failure. It was cutting in and out but never gave out completely). I guess I must be a fanboy but I’ve beat on every castle system I’ve had and they just seen to work for me lol.
Don't be a quitter. Everytime you run it you learn something. Just switch it to a fun thing instead of a super serious effort. Taking the pressure off may let it surprise you
It's the solid rear as soon as u steer there's no compensation which results in slide out
Well... Not everything can work out the way we want, Phil. But... There's always a next time! 😉
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
at 3:50, where were you driving the car?
I wonder if ground-in-effect is causes the crazy steering issues with the Tamiya.
Perhaps its the foam tires getting too much grip?
I’d say the rear shock delete made the car unsettled when accelerating especially when you hit any small pebble or imperfection in the road.
I miss my TL-01 with a R34 Skyline body on it. I had it when the first Fast and Furious came out..
I need the rear belt off that ta-04. I can't find one anywhere!
You need rear dampers. Seems the rear end is stepping out.
set the body lower onto it , add a ducktail spoiler onto it and maybe a splitter instead of the foam bumper , maybe that straightens it out
🙋🏻♂️ Hello Phil
The end really sucks man 😔 you will bring him home right there where Tami belong
Is there such a thing as too light? Especially with cross winds
Looking at that ta04 40mph 50 max. The body needs front and rear wing. No dampers at the rear lol... . Locked front diff ?. I felt your pain lol.
You can get that to the speed you looking for. You just have to spend some money. But if you take a team Trinity drag motor combine it with a 4S ESC like a RX8. Running on 4S with shocks off of 1/8 scale on road car. You'll hit that hundred miles an hour or more
I got the ta03 f and the steering is pants. 😅 it Wonersh all over and can't find parts to renew the steering.😢
Skip the xlx2 and go right to the Max4. The xlx2 is a fire ball waiting to destroy your RC's. Ask me how I know. I have 2 xlx2 sitting on my shelf as replacements for ones that went up in flames a while back. Im afraid to use them after the first ones destroyed my RC's and lipos. If you can set the car up to max the max4 fit, I suggest going that route, plus it gives you 12S as an option if your motor can handle it.
That Limitless looks fantastic! I've never understood the obsession of the Tamiya or the Kyosho = $$$$$.
Tam and Kyo the ultimate money pits💰🕳️
@@mankind8088 There’s a guy who does daily videos on TH-cam and does both of those brands. After a while, they all look and perform the same. Why bother?
Is that Lamby in the pic? Legend
Certainly is! Nicest guy you’ll ever meet. 👍
I bet I can make that tamiya go in a straight line!
Why aren't you just replacing the speed controller etc in the Limitless, that looks so cool ??
Tamiya...
I would put the rear suspension back in and add a rear wing.
Fyi, next time you can try going down in volts. If you're trying to run 8s, drop back to 6s. If you're running 6s drop back to 4s. I'm not saying this is the best way to proceed but it might have bought you some faster speeds at the event.
have you got any to sell around the £200 including postage please looking for a new quick toy but cant be bothered with the painting and building this time around
100mph is still a lot Tomley! Nice work man. I only hit 120kmh on rather road infront of the house. Btw Tomley what was the ESC and Motor u used in ur old 78mph Record?
Vintage TA-04 speed challenge?👍
So it's been a while, did you ever fix these two and get them going again or have I missed that?
Looks like it has toe out on the rear??
Hi guys I'm from southafrica and would like to find out how can I become a tester or What can I do to get a sponsor for RC cars
I'd go with a Tekin esc in the Limitless. Everything else is child's play.
Its better to try than no bother. 😀👍
Just a wag, but with the bumper being that hight I'd say too much air under the car. With the flat piece of plastic under just the center it may have caused some wonky areo afects
got to get rid of the max five and get it Castle
Maybe a gyro might help? Make it wider?
Xlx2 and that limitless will sing.
Your arrma sounds really undergeared dude ,have you checked the rollout ?
With a proper suspension setup and adequate aero this thing should be able to do 100mph safely.
Welcome to the big boy league 🦾🦾
Soon…. 🏎️💨
Why no suspension on the back? That cant be good for stability.
Worlds fastest RC Car has no suspension… so must be good for some things. Maybe not this 😅
bad luck with the Tamiya, but with right motor the Hobao will get you your 150mph cap for sure
Is it obligatory to have a body on at rossa
I think part of your problem is removing the rear shocks. It seems to be a very questionable move, you do you, but I would imagine removing the rear shocks would make it unstable at high speed.
We typically speak of setting up a car for 140+ and in that scenario, the rear is usually set with 2-4mm travel max. (Almost locked) the higher your speeds the less travel you want in your rear suspension.
Front is usually setup where it is only 5-10 mm off the ground. It's travel limit needs to be set just before it touches the surface. He is running on a RC club race strip. The surface should be quite uniform and not require rear suspension the likely problem is the body is creating enough drag to flip the car over onto itself
Was that the newest Max 5 that's 12s capable? If so there is always the Max 4. I just really hate seeing friends RC's burning down.
Its Christmas every day 🎉
Chin up buddy. Can’t win them all
Take the connectors out, solder wires.
It did sound a bit noisy on the fly by dude... Maybe something vibrating?
It didn't sound right 🤷♂️
Needs more aero!
4:15 so, your limitless hit it's ....limit? lol (I know F off MIKE just PISS RIGHT OFF lolol)
Mate...I need a drink after that
😅