Attach the stone to the racking arm, then open the racking arm completely and allow the wort to flow downwards TO the stone, completely covering it. Then, turn on the o2 tank.
I've tried this one for sure. It still seems that it eventually pushes the wort out. I've moved to removing the racking arm when I'm just carbonating but my real solution is that I just bought a brite tank yesterday for my 1/2 bbl (60L) batches which is huge overkill for homebrewing, but seems to make sense for my setup. Cheers!
Most tanks have the stone in contact with the beer, the way you have it doesnt work because gas is pushing beer away from the stone, either put a stone in contact or make an in line loop where your current stone carbs as it recirc back into vessle.
Makes sense. I think it would work much better without the racking arm but still not ideal. I almost brought out my QuickCarb to finish it off, but I'll see where it goes.
I observed the same behavior with my Spike carb stone installed the same way you have it on my CF15 conical. I think the carb stone is designed to be installed directly on the tank in a horizontal fashion so that it touches more beer.
Makes sense. I just wanted to check it out with a sight glass because it does say on the website that it works with the racking arm which makes it a pretty long run to the stone with the valve and arm. If only there was another port....
I just adjusted the racking arm. Definitely did a lot better at bringing in the beer to the stone. I am trying to carb very slow, but it seems like the foam is building up at the top again. But at least this way, if you can control the flow with the valve, it may just bubble slow and keep the stone saturated.
@@beeroquoisnation Yep, it works if you pressurize the vessel, let the beer flow in, then only open the valve an extremely small amount. This way the beer gets in. Even an 8th of a turn open causes the co2 to overtake the beer. Basically you need a flow regulator at a minimal setting to get this thing to actually work like a carbonation stone.
I did release pressure, but once the pressure is re-added, it pushes the beer back out of the racking arm. Possibly using my flow controller might help if less co2 is getting added slower.
Attach the stone to the racking arm, then open the racking arm completely and allow the wort to flow downwards TO the stone, completely covering it. Then, turn on the o2 tank.
I've tried this one for sure. It still seems that it eventually pushes the wort out. I've moved to removing the racking arm when I'm just carbonating but my real solution is that I just bought a brite tank yesterday for my 1/2 bbl (60L) batches which is huge overkill for homebrewing, but seems to make sense for my setup. Cheers!
Most tanks have the stone in contact with the beer, the way you have it doesnt work because gas is pushing beer away from the stone, either put a stone in contact or make an in line loop where your current stone carbs as it recirc back into vessle.
Makes sense. I think it would work much better without the racking arm but still not ideal. I almost brought out my QuickCarb to finish it off, but I'll see where it goes.
I observed the same behavior with my Spike carb stone installed the same way you have it on my CF15 conical. I think the carb stone is designed to be installed directly on the tank in a horizontal fashion so that it touches more beer.
Basically, it needs to be installed on the thermo port.
Makes sense. I just wanted to check it out with a sight glass because it does say on the website that it works with the racking arm which makes it a pretty long run to the stone with the valve and arm. If only there was another port....
The racking arm pointed downward? If so the racking arm will be an airlock essentially preventing the beer from entering the chamber.
I just adjusted the racking arm. Definitely did a lot better at bringing in the beer to the stone. I am trying to carb very slow, but it seems like the foam is building up at the top again. But at least this way, if you can control the flow with the valve, it may just bubble slow and keep the stone saturated.
@@PartyTimeBrewing If it creates an airlock, the beer cannot find its way to the stone. I think you got it now.
Cheers brother.
@@beeroquoisnation Yep, it works if you pressurize the vessel, let the beer flow in, then only open the valve an extremely small amount. This way the beer gets in. Even an 8th of a turn open causes the co2 to overtake the beer. Basically you need a flow regulator at a minimal setting to get this thing to actually work like a carbonation stone.
Or setup a spunding valve to let pressure out and maybe the beer would fall to the stone and carb it up as you want it to
I did release pressure, but once the pressure is re-added, it pushes the beer back out of the racking arm. Possibly using my flow controller might help if less co2 is getting added slower.
Ya I usually have to buy ssbrew tech parts to make it work so much better.
True! I'd like to pick up a bigger carb stone for when I'm using it as a dedicated brite tank. Cheers!
Wow dude Spike isn't cheap hope this was a one off
I think it will work better without the racking arm or maybe I should rotate the racking arm up. Cheers!