The collar on Henry's sweater is a perfect example of your masterful attention to detail. Before you explained what you did it was apparent you made improvements. Beautiful work.
I started working in a sewing store this year. We have a big button wall with thousands of buttons, and one of my favourite parts of my job is helping people choose buttons. I often think of you when I do!
That collar info was fantastic. Great solution. You were dealing with the equivalent of what we call in sewing adjusting for the turn of the cloth. If you make a tailored suit collar the top collar piece has to be cut slightly larger than the under collar (and with other adjustments sometimes) so it accommodates for the folding over of the fabric sandwich (there’s also interfacing inside).
Traditional shawl collars were knit in three pieces, and were shaped to accommodate that corner turn. There's a lot to learn about technique and shaping from older patterns!
Hi Roxanne. I knit the Damaris pullover by Ella Rey. I had to frog the project and restart. The sizing was so off, that I knit the size small, in the end, and normally I would be a large. I used the suggested yarn, correct needles, and had gauge. I don’t think I use their patterns ever again. If you search it in Ravelry, I am one of only a few who knit it. Actually my profile pic is the pullover! Great episode.
I love the purple cardigan for your grandniece too. It's such a pretty design. I've been using the Craft Council's sizing for preemie sizes. I didn't know about the ASTM. As always, this was really helpful. I do check actual measurements where possible for anything for little ones however, since there's such variation.
Great episode Roxanne, I really enjoyed each topic. I’ve wanted to make a balaclava, why I don’t know, but I like the old patterns. One day I’ll try one out. And I always learn a lot as you explain how you adapted your projects to fix problems I would never have figured out until I or someone tried the finished garment on. Thank you!
I always love to see how you solve your knitting problems! Years ago I found myself in a similar situation with the shawl collar of a child’s sweater and found some beneficial tips online for using short rows to help. Both of your sweaters are adorable.
Hi there, lovely to catch up. I hope all is well with you as it is here. You have been busy finishing Henrys and Rosies Sweaters and they both look lovely, particularly the colour of Rosies Sweater. Thank you for the update regarding Balaclava hats. I made 1 for my younger Brother who is a Deer Hunter in Central Otago in New Zealand and mostly in the Winter, he enjoyed wearing it but finding a pattern was not easy. Today's challenge is to make the Christmas Cake, so I must get on and do that. Catch up again soon.
Hi Roxanne. Your work is really lovely. That hat is fantastic and the sweaters are amazing! I’m sure your grandniece and grandnephew are going to look adorable in them. Thanks for sharing the balaclavas and sizing information. Very interesting podcast. 😊
Another great episode. Love the sweaters for Henry and Rosie!! Also found the info on the balaclava patterns interesting. Have thought about making them, when we've had sub zero weather here in Chicago. Might take another look at those.
Roxann, you just gave me quite a laugh. I was knitting and listening to you talk about the sizing issue. I must not have been paying attention when you started talking about the ASTM. I looked up and saw the ASTM logo and had a flash thought, "Why is she using a roads materials reference?" Then the rest of my brain caught up and said, "Idiot. They do more than highway construction materials. 😆
Yes your sweaters are lovely although I was disappointed not to see pink for the little girl that I was somehow expecting . Loved the Blaclava section. My cat was mesmerized watching your fingers move across the screen when you went over the sizing and standards info. lol. I think paying for that info would really have to be for a worthwhile project or multiples as it just seemed way out of bounds especially factoring in the exchange rate to Cdn - to nearly $80! Prices these days are just bonkers ! If the project is for a single knit I would be inclined rather just to measure the child and gift the money to the child or a charity.
I wouldn't recommend forking over that kind of money for a one-size knit. The CYC charts are good enough for that. The ASTM standards are really meant for designers who are grading multiple sizes. It's information that I have wanted for a long time, just because I like information. :-)
Henry and Rosie’s sweater are so cute!! I love the buttons on Rosie’s sweater as well. Your knowledge is amazing. Another interesting podcast. I am just trying to complete my first shirt. Sadly to say, I completed all the rows and did the Icord bind off and tried it on and it’s too short!! So I am in the process of taking that out so I can lengthen it, and a few inches more. But before I pull all the rows out I need to put in a lifeline. I know how to do them on flat knitting. But in the round is going to be the challenge and a learning. Oh well, I might leave it until after Christmas but probably not lol
Use a long circular at a smaller gauge for your in-the-round lifeline. Rip back and merely begin knitting again off the 'lifeline' needle onto the needle appropriate to your project. 9:24
For the measurement questions I'd say the top line is the bust girth and the lower is the chest girth and I say that in relation to bras. Most women don't wear the right size bra and once I learned how to properly measure for a bra, it was a game changer and I had to have a chest measurement as well as a bust measurement (and I thought they'd be the same thing). A chest measurement is where the breast attaches to the body (where underwire would sit) and the bust measurement is the measurement around your breasts.
I would agree, if there were two measurements, but there are three: Upper-Chest Girth, Chest-Bust Girth, and Upper-Chest/Bust Girth, and there are only two circumference markings on the models.
When you show the Weldon's Hospital Comforts balaclava, that same page has an image of a sock I'd love to know more about. It might just be the illustration or how the sock is laid down, but it appears that the heel flap and gusset is followed by extra length in stockinette at the base of the foot. I looked up the original pattern, but I'm not at the point where I can translate text to 3D objects in my head. Is this a "normal" heel flap and gusset or is it indeed a different type of heel turn?
Are you talking about the FIrst Series pamphlet? The sock labeled "Plain Knitted Sock"? It's a Dutch Heel, rather than a round heel, so you maintain the same number of sts across the center for the entire time, eliminating the first and last third of the heel sts. Socks and stockings at that time maintained a "seam stitch" down the back of the leg, which often extended down the heel and even into the heel turn, which this sock does. It helps the knitter track the beginning of the round, maintain symmetrical calf shaping for longer socks and stockings, and to keep track of the center of the heel and turn. I have two videos in my Socks playlist (they should also be in the Sock Heels playlist) for Dutch Heel (also called a square heel), and a modified Dutch Heel. The heel turns in those videos do not maintain a seam stitch.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you for the response! A Dutch heel with a seam makes sense now that you've pointed it out. I've knit a few socks with the Dutch heel but am glad I took a look at those video comments. "The trick is to figure out how many sts you need at the start of the gusset, and then choose your heel flap/heel turn combination so that you have the right number of sts. I have a video in the Sock Heels playlist that explains how to calculate the number of sts/heel flap length based on the circumference of your heel diagonal." is the answer to the question behind the question :-)
I always love your problem solving processes On Henry’s sweater did you think about using short rows on the collar? Just curious if you think it might have worked or not.
This collar is a lot like one that could have been picked up along the diagonal edges and across the back of the neck. Short rows would have just added length to the back of the collar. It's the approach used for cardigans with a V neck. The extra rows needed for the collar are achieved with short rows. These collars often have the same issue of the bind off edge not being long enough to create a nice roll, because you haven't added any sts to make the edge longer. If you work the collar parallel to the vertical/diagonal edge, and then continue the collar perpendicular to the back of the neck (and sew those edges together, later), then you can work short row wedges at the "corners" where the diagonal front piece turns to become the back of the neck. For this type of neck, short rows wouldn't have helped. It needs increases.
@@RoxanneRichardsonThanks for adding this reply and clarification! I was wondering the same about short rows as I am smack the middle of a shawl color on an Arkansas River sweater for my husband, and still have time to improvise a similar fix!
It's not a ratio. Every measurement in that section is a girth measurement, with each one of the chest measurements a bit smaller than the previous one.
Congratulations! If you're trying to clothe a newborn in June, then the same fibers an adult would wear in the summer would work. A wool/cotton blend could work well in air conditioned environments. Cotton tends to be heavier than wool on a per meter basis, but it would certainly work for hats and blankets. (My kids were mostly wearing diapers and a t-shirt as infants in the summer.) That baby will be facing a long Canadian winter soon enough, though! :-)
Thank you Roxanne for your quick answer, I was thinking of a wool /cotton blend also. My daughter lives in Kamouraska, it can be quite windy even in summer.@@RoxanneRichardson
Rox, I don't really want to be *that* person, but in Henry's sweater, in the collar, isn't it that the left side should sit on top of the right side, at least in men's/boys' clothes? Yours has the right on top of the left, which is typical of women's/girls'. Sorry again, ignore me if I'm wrong.
Hi Roxanne, I was trying to find the Fleisher's manual you mentioned, and it looks like the Etsy seller's shop is named "ivarose" rather than "Ivy Rose"
In my collection of Dutch magazines from the 1950s (and early 1960s) I know there's at least one balaclava. I know because I knitted that pattern. If I find it back I'll make a photo and share it in your Ravelry forum group. The pattern description is in Dutch, I don't think that's useful for you.
The collar on Henry's sweater is a perfect example of your masterful attention to detail. Before you explained what you did it was apparent you made improvements. Beautiful work.
I started working in a sewing store this year. We have a big button wall with thousands of buttons, and one of my favourite parts of my job is helping people choose buttons. I often think of you when I do!
Oh, I love the matching mismatched buttons!
That collar info was fantastic. Great solution. You were dealing with the equivalent of what we call in sewing adjusting for the turn of the cloth. If you make a tailored suit collar the top collar piece has to be cut slightly larger than the under collar (and with other adjustments sometimes) so it accommodates for the folding over of the fabric sandwich (there’s also interfacing inside).
Traditional shawl collars were knit in three pieces, and were shaped to accommodate that corner turn. There's a lot to learn about technique and shaping from older patterns!
Oh that’s so interesting, Rox. I think older patterns base a lot on garment sewing structures.
@@NinaKeilin And newer patterns base a lot on "what can I do to avoid seaming" ;-)
Hi Roxanne. I knit the Damaris pullover by Ella Rey. I had to frog the project and restart. The sizing was so off, that I knit the size small, in the end, and normally I would be a large. I used the suggested yarn, correct needles, and had gauge. I don’t think I use their patterns ever again. If you search it in Ravelry, I am one of only a few who knit it. Actually my profile pic is the pullover! Great episode.
There must be 20'' of ease in that sweater!
Thank you for sharing your experience of these two sweaters . Both are beautiful. This is a great place to improve knitting skills.❤
I love the purple cardigan for your grandniece too. It's such a pretty design. I've been using the Craft Council's sizing for preemie sizes. I didn't know about the ASTM. As always, this was really helpful. I do check actual measurements where possible for anything for little ones however, since there's such variation.
Great episode Roxanne, I really enjoyed each topic. I’ve wanted to make a balaclava, why I don’t know, but I like the old patterns. One day I’ll try one out. And I always learn a lot as you explain how you adapted your projects to fix problems I would never have figured out until I or someone tried the finished garment on. Thank you!
I always love to see how you solve your knitting problems! Years ago I found myself in a similar situation with the shawl collar of a child’s sweater and found some beneficial tips online for using short rows to help. Both of your sweaters are adorable.
Hallo! As usually I've lerned something new from you (about metrics standards) . Thank you!
Beautiful little sweaters, love your explanation of your adjustments to pattern!
Hi there, lovely to catch up. I hope all is well with you as it is here. You have been busy finishing Henrys and Rosies Sweaters and they both look lovely, particularly the colour of Rosies Sweater. Thank you for the update regarding Balaclava hats. I made 1 for my younger Brother who is a Deer Hunter in Central Otago in New Zealand and mostly in the Winter, he enjoyed wearing it but finding a pattern was not easy.
Today's challenge is to make the Christmas Cake, so I must get on and do that. Catch up again soon.
Hi Roxanne. Your work is really lovely. That hat is fantastic and the sweaters are amazing! I’m sure your grandniece and grandnephew are going to look adorable in them. Thanks for sharing the balaclavas and sizing information. Very interesting podcast. 😊
Love all your makes, and as usual lots of very interesting information. ❤
Another great episode. Love the sweaters for Henry and Rosie!! Also found the info on the balaclava patterns interesting. Have thought about making them, when we've had sub zero weather here in Chicago. Might take another look at those.
Great episode!
I bought reborn dolls to help knit for those months to toddler sizes. A couple of dolls are larger through the belly area.
Oh man, I didn't know the ASM cost money. I'm glad for Ann Budd - I keep going back to her books.
Yep, that was one of the resources I checked, but her books don't include babies and toddler sizes.
Roxann, you just gave me quite a laugh. I was knitting and listening to you talk about the sizing issue. I must not have been paying attention when you started talking about the ASTM. I looked up and saw the ASTM logo and had a flash thought, "Why is she using a roads materials reference?" Then the rest of my brain caught up and said, "Idiot. They do more than highway construction materials. 😆
Yes your sweaters are lovely although I was disappointed not to see pink for the little girl that I was somehow expecting . Loved the Blaclava section. My cat was mesmerized watching your fingers move across the screen when you went over the sizing and standards info. lol. I think paying for that info would really have to be for a worthwhile project or multiples as it just seemed way out of bounds especially factoring in the exchange rate to Cdn - to nearly $80! Prices these days are just bonkers ! If the project is for a single knit I would be inclined rather just to measure the child and gift the money to the child or a charity.
I wouldn't recommend forking over that kind of money for a one-size knit. The CYC charts are good enough for that. The ASTM standards are really meant for designers who are grading multiple sizes. It's information that I have wanted for a long time, just because I like information. :-)
Henry and Rosie’s sweater are so cute!! I love the buttons on Rosie’s sweater as well. Your knowledge is amazing. Another interesting podcast. I am just trying to complete my first shirt. Sadly to say, I completed all the rows and did the Icord bind off and tried it on and it’s too short!! So I am in the process of taking that out so I can lengthen it, and a few inches more. But before I pull all the rows out I need to put in a lifeline. I know how to do them on flat knitting. But in the round is going to be the challenge and a learning. Oh well, I might leave it until after Christmas but probably not lol
Use a long circular at a smaller gauge for your in-the-round lifeline. Rip back and merely begin knitting again off the 'lifeline' needle onto the needle appropriate to your project. 9:24
Very interesting content.
The sweaters for your young’uns are beautiful. Do you add labels identifying your work, especially as gifts for other people?
For the measurement questions I'd say the top line is the bust girth and the lower is the chest girth and I say that in relation to bras. Most women don't wear the right size bra and once I learned how to properly measure for a bra, it was a game changer and I had to have a chest measurement as well as a bust measurement (and I thought they'd be the same thing). A chest measurement is where the breast attaches to the body (where underwire would sit) and the bust measurement is the measurement around your breasts.
I would agree, if there were two measurements, but there are three: Upper-Chest Girth, Chest-Bust Girth, and Upper-Chest/Bust Girth, and there are only two circumference markings on the models.
When you show the Weldon's Hospital Comforts balaclava, that same page has an image of a sock I'd love to know more about. It might just be the illustration or how the sock is laid down, but it appears that the heel flap and gusset is followed by extra length in stockinette at the base of the foot. I looked up the original pattern, but I'm not at the point where I can translate text to 3D objects in my head. Is this a "normal" heel flap and gusset or is it indeed a different type of heel turn?
Are you talking about the FIrst Series pamphlet? The sock labeled "Plain Knitted Sock"? It's a Dutch Heel, rather than a round heel, so you maintain the same number of sts across the center for the entire time, eliminating the first and last third of the heel sts. Socks and stockings at that time maintained a "seam stitch" down the back of the leg, which often extended down the heel and even into the heel turn, which this sock does. It helps the knitter track the beginning of the round, maintain symmetrical calf shaping for longer socks and stockings, and to keep track of the center of the heel and turn. I have two videos in my Socks playlist (they should also be in the Sock Heels playlist) for Dutch Heel (also called a square heel), and a modified Dutch Heel. The heel turns in those videos do not maintain a seam stitch.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you for the response! A Dutch heel with a seam makes sense now that you've pointed it out. I've knit a few socks with the Dutch heel but am glad I took a look at those video comments. "The trick is to figure out how many sts you need at the start of the gusset, and then choose your heel flap/heel turn combination so that you have the right number of sts. I have a video in the Sock Heels playlist that explains how to calculate the number of sts/heel flap length based on the circumference of your heel diagonal." is the answer to the question behind the question :-)
I always love your problem solving processes On Henry’s sweater did you think about using short rows on the collar? Just curious if you think it might have worked or not.
This collar is a lot like one that could have been picked up along the diagonal edges and across the back of the neck. Short rows would have just added length to the back of the collar. It's the approach used for cardigans with a V neck. The extra rows needed for the collar are achieved with short rows. These collars often have the same issue of the bind off edge not being long enough to create a nice roll, because you haven't added any sts to make the edge longer. If you work the collar parallel to the vertical/diagonal edge, and then continue the collar perpendicular to the back of the neck (and sew those edges together, later), then you can work short row wedges at the "corners" where the diagonal front piece turns to become the back of the neck. For this type of neck, short rows wouldn't have helped. It needs increases.
@@RoxanneRichardsonThanks for adding this reply and clarification! I was wondering the same about short rows as I am smack the middle of a shawl color on an Arkansas River sweater for my husband, and still have time to improvise a similar fix!
Walter library at the U of M may have a set of ASTM standards. (I’ll leave you alone with my comments now. 😊)
Upper chest/bust chest sounds like the ratio of the two. Cervicale is the tip of the dorsal spine of the seventh cervical vertebra.
It's not a ratio. Every measurement in that section is a girth measurement, with each one of the chest measurements a bit smaller than the previous one.
I have vintage balaclava patterns!
❤❤❤
I have just learned yesterday that my dayghter is pregnant, what natural washable fibers would you recommand for a baby born in June ?
Congratulations! If you're trying to clothe a newborn in June, then the same fibers an adult would wear in the summer would work. A wool/cotton blend could work well in air conditioned environments. Cotton tends to be heavier than wool on a per meter basis, but it would certainly work for hats and blankets. (My kids were mostly wearing diapers and a t-shirt as infants in the summer.) That baby will be facing a long Canadian winter soon enough, though! :-)
Thank you Roxanne for your quick answer, I was thinking of a wool /cotton blend also. My daughter lives in Kamouraska, it can be quite windy even in summer.@@RoxanneRichardson
Rox, I don't really want to be *that* person, but in Henry's sweater, in the collar, isn't it that the left side should sit on top of the right side, at least in men's/boys' clothes? Yours has the right on top of the left, which is typical of women's/girls'.
Sorry again, ignore me if I'm wrong.
I don't know that it matters for a shawl collar, particularly children's clothing. Regardless, I sewed it on as instructed in the pattern.
Hi Roxanne, I was trying to find the Fleisher's manual you mentioned, and it looks like the Etsy seller's shop is named "ivarose" rather than "Ivy Rose"
Thanks for the correction!
In my collection of Dutch magazines from the 1950s (and early 1960s) I know there's at least one balaclava. I know because I knitted that pattern. If I find it back I'll make a photo and share it in your Ravelry forum group. The pattern description is in Dutch, I don't think that's useful for you.
Google translate can be very helpful in those situations!