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hi, one question: if i have 4 x 12V 280Ah C100 batteries and want to do a 24V system, is it better to hook them up into: 2 in series + 2 in series and those in paralel or 2 parallel + 2 parallel and those in series ? (To get a better C Rating? Discharging rate?) as allways there are folks that say the first is better and other say the latter is better ...
@@Broxine It will not mater 2 in series and 2 in parallel or vice verse just wire it to 24v build it as to the easiest way to configure the connections obviously the shorter the wire is the less losses you will have. Have a good one.
"C" specifically refers to the discharge capacity, that is the shortest time the battery can be safely completely discharged in quantified in fractions of one hour. Time is measured on a sexagecimal system, in units of 60, so it can be evenly divided 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 ways evenly. So a 20C battery can be discharged in 3 minutes, where a 30C battery can be discharged in 2 minutes, 60C in a minute flat. That way you can multiply to get the total amperage, a 5Ah, 20C cell can discharge in 3 minutes @ 100A, where a 5Ah 30C can discharge @ 150A in 2 minutes.
This could be the best explanation/tutorial I've seen in ages. Another thing, that AA with 2Ah capacity could've been very expensive back in 2014. I barely see rechargeable AAs these days as 18650 is by far, has become the standard size for battery-powered tools.
took TH-cam forever but it finally recommended me something useful, this is probably the best explaination of Ah, A, Wh and C I've ever come across. Definitely looking at batteries in a much more reasonable way now.
I was looking at power packs and powerstation, and seeing they had nearly identical or only marginally different mah ratings (which is what I thought was their capacity) even though they were immensely different sizes and hundreds of dollars different in price, I was very confused and this video has been extremely helpful
I like to think of the C rating as implicitly in units of per-hour (1/hour or hour^-1), so that a 2C rating means you could (in theory) discharge such a battery twice in one hour (or once in half an hour). This way, you have a calculation such as 2.2 Ah x 20/hour, and the hours obviously cancel out, leaving a measure of current.
A similar nuisance occurs with electrical power utilities and their kWh measurements - you end up sometimes thinking about kWh/hour, which always strikes me as bizarre, even though it just means kW. Great videos, BTW. :)
Great explanation! A lot of people today are so confused with (Ah) and (A). These are the things the people need to know when buying power banks, vape batteries etc.
If you have a lipo battery and a sharp object, you can release all that stored energy much much quicker than the C rating says. Unfortunately it causes the battery to exceed its design specifications and malfunction ;-)
That certainly cleared up a few things, I've been curious as to what the amp hours thingy on batteries actually meant. Had to watch some of this a few times before I got it.
Afrotechmods That's just me, on pretty much any video that's about something I'm not familiar with, sometimes I have to replay something several times before I understand it.
Afrotechmods you were very clear on this video. However, I too had to watch more than once since this is all new to me. At least you get more views from us newbies!! Lol.
I'm so glad you're making videos again. I have a question. Why do rechargeable batteries have mAh ratings on them but non-rechargeable ones do not? Aren't regular chemical batteries also able to deliver a set amount of current in amp hours?
Somebody else may've already figured this out in the 2+ years since you posted this and commented about it, but I think I figured out C-rating. Amp-hours is just another way of saying coulombs. 1 ampere of current for 1 second is 1 coulomb of charge. So 1As = 1C. Therefore, 1Ah = 3.6kC and 1mAh = 3.6C. (But it's a lot easier to say 2.2mAh and do the math off of that than to say 7.92C and have to divide that by 3.6C *first* to convert it to mAh.) The C-rating just converts coulombs or amp-seconds to amperes, but abstracts a whole lot of messy physics and chemistry calculations to save the common average person time and mental energy. The C-rating is effectively a single scalar that can be used to simplify a whole complicated mess of math including the rate of charge transfer between the two terminals of the battery (which accounts for the maximum rate of the chemical processes inside) as well as other physics effects that come into play. It takes all of that math and boils it down to a dimensionless number that divides the battery's charge (amp-seconds or coulombs) by the time unit and then multiplies the nominal charge rating to give you... how many amps the battery can deliver instantaneously. The one number is the simplified approximation of multiple derivatives for multiple effects occurring simultaneously. Confusing? Yes, for the electrical engineer. Because marketing bullpucky makes little sense to engineers. But at the same time it can save time for the engineer by providing an adequate approximation of the battery's capability to deliver current. But to the average person who may not know quite so much? One simple little C-rating number they can use to multiply the battery's nominal charge (given in amp-hours) is a cheap, quick, dirty bit of mental math that saves a whole heck of a lot of time when shopping for a battery that can deliver the needed current. EDIT My roommate also just pointed out that C-rating also works exceptionally well when talking to, say, management when proposing that you need to buy this more expensive battery over this cheaper battery. Management may or may not be able to so intuitively grasp electrical engineering. A simple number you can use to multiply a battery's charge rating to give you another number saves time. TL;DR: C-rating is marketing bullpucky, but it's marketing bullpucky that *works* and don't stink. :3 TIDE
I don't usually comment on these types of videos but this was sooo helpful thank you. We were given an assignment with this in it but it wasn't covered in any lectures.
Great video! I always wondered if a machine would only take a number of amps it needed, or if you had too many amps if it would fail. now I know thanks to you!
If you're confused, you should be because this has not been explained adequately. Particularly in relation to C ratings. And not a mention of batter packs construction relating to series and parallel connection and how this relates to Amps Mah and C.
Great video!! Amp hours had me buggin'..lol. The last type battery you showed, we use those type in drone racing/freestyle and they're used in many RC hobbies. With high performance drones, the c rating is very important to us, the higher the better performance, unfortunately the cost goes up too. With an average race/freestyle drone you can hit speeds up to 70mph+ but there is also a lot of sharp turns, flips and all around changes of directions in seconds, which means the throttle stick is constantly moving. Each of the 4 motors can pull appx 15-20amps, and the speed controller chips that operate them are rated at about 40amps for buffer from bursts. So imagine the energy draw on the battery, from 0 to max and back down again, 30 times or so during a flight. What happens to us when battery starts to get low, at the end of a flight, we notice what we call voltage sag, looking at it on a flight data chart, you'll see throttle input increase, and as the quad starts to gain momentum, the battery can't handle it, and the voltage sags, just for a second or so, but in racing that's an eternity..lol. So the higher c rating of a battery, you get lower resistance and way less voltage sag near the tail end of your flight, sometimes when you need it most trying to race to the finish line.
Couldn't figure out how long my power bank will keep my lens heater warm. 30 mins of googling nothing, what the fakk is this magic. Found this video after looking through a few TH-cam videos. Now I can safely say that my power bank should keep my lens heater heating for about 8 and a half hours. Extremely useful video. Well explained to a practical level that's useful, compared to a lot of resources out there that state how amp-hours, watt-hours, and all that relate to each other, which makes no sense when trying to figure out how long a powerbank will last if you're me and know absolutely nothing about anything.
Great video indeed, but you forgot to mention one very importand thing (concidering you show us the discahrge curves you should mention that): Wh is not always Ah*V because voltage tends to drop significantly and with higher loads it drops more significantly and much faster. As you said "idealy" it IS Ah*V, but practicaly it's lower, and the difference is sometimes noticeable - with higher discharge current and higher voltage drop it reaches some 15-25% drop in Wh capacity. Like on these curves for that 1.2V battery - average voltage @ 400 mA is ~1.25V and 1.9 Ah (1.25*1.9=2.375Wh) and for 4A it will be ~1.1V and 1.7 Ah (1.1*1.7=1.87Wh) Now let's compare: 1.7/1.9 is 0.89 ratio, which is bad but not as bad as 1.87/2.375 is 0.78 ratio.
And there you have the reason that most inverters cannot run an electric motor that is close to the stated surge, because of the voltage drop required to get the motor running. now if there were some supercaps of the proper value included in the circuit of the inverter input that might make a difference.
I think the C rating was introduced to give consumers the ability to know if the battery matches the electrical load of motors. Mostly the RC market for cars, planes. As not all electric motors are equal.
I wish everyone doing a review that has anything to do with batteries would watch this. It annoys me so much that manufacturers claim a certain mAh capacity when their packs are actually connected in series, and many reviewers don’t understand why mAh can be super misleading.
I never liked C ratings either and you are right, they are confusing. What I do for my flashlights is just get a good brand since they don't drain batteries quickly anyhow. I use the IMR 18650s and other similar cells. The potential for danger is when you have more than one cell in a flashlight because you must balance them or they can vent or explode or maybe even burn a house down in some cases.
Can you do a video about how you acquired your knowledge (education, career, etc)? I'm taking electrician classes right now so I'm curious. Also, your videos are awesome.
4:35 - yes that's right! coz in the context of physics, power = work done / time. so obviously work must be in the unit Joule thus Power has to do with energy.
Paging igetcha69 (Scott)... I think this may come in handy, especially when answering questions you may be asked quite often. Thanks Afrotechmods :-) Another fine and helpful production. I plan patronage when my income seems stable. Until then you continue to have my gratitude.
Don't forget that you shouldn't draw 88 amps from a nearly discharged battery even though your C rating is 40 and your amp hours is 2.2. In reality you should follow this guideline. C rating X remaining AH of battery. Or in other words, as you discharge your battery you should draw less current or you risk damaging the battery or shortening it's life cycle. It's not that the C rating changes as the battery depletes, it's that the AH remaining in the battery that decreases. So in a properly designed system you should monitor how much energy has gone in/out of your battery and limit your charge/discharge current based off that rather than your raw AH rating X C rating. For example: your battery is 2.2ah at C40. You have discharged it down to 1.5ah. So now 1.5 X 40 is 60 amps max current draw.
Pretty easy even without the equation of voltage x capacity. Because with Voltage x Current will basically give the same answer. So 9.6 volts x 2 Amps = 19.2 Watts, or 19.2 Watts for 1 hour, or 19.2 watt-hours. For the little battery, 1.2v x 2A = 2.4 Watts, or 2.4 watts for 1 hour, or 2.4 watt-hours. Easy.
so correct me if I'm wrong. If our battery capacity is known and we like to know how many times we could charge our phone it doesn't really matter how high the voltage or Ah or our battery is. But rather what our phone could receive in terms of Amps and Voltage. right? Excellent knowledge thank you for sharing
AnthonyTV Think it's something like this: Discharge amp = mAh * C Discharge time = (Generally since Ah) 1 hour/C or C = 1hr/discharge time. 1000mAh*6 = 6 A 60min/6 = 10 min 6 A for 10 minutes The discharge amp * discharge time should always be equal for one battery.
I like this definition. It avoids the inconsistency of Ah and A. My suggestion: C= (Safely deliverable current up to full discharge) / (Nom. Deliverable Current up to full discharge in 1 hour) or also C= 1h / (time to safely full discharge).
Zephree Zen Gold well yes, however the 1C in this case cant provide more than 1 Amp without blowing up. The 6C can provide anywhere from 0 to 6 Amps before it blows up. Same capacity, just different maximum ampere outputs.
Tutorial request. Could you please explain the principle behind capacitor choice in circuits (when to choose ceramic vs. electrolytic, polar vs. non-polar etc.) I always get lost with the huge variety of ceramic and plastic caps. I often pick random non-polar ones based on capacitance and find that they work equally well in PWM circuits for example. The only thing I've noticed is that cheap brown ceramics react to temperature much more than blue and yellow ones. Tantalum caps are most stable. But I'm pretty sure there's more to caps than that. Of all the components I find them the most mysterious and non-intuitive. Thanks.
Great video! I'm trying to power a 5V sensor with a 3.7v booster/charger pcb. What's the minimum mAh battery you think I should use? I have a 120maH lipo on it now and the board seems to dwindle and looses power 😞. Thanks for your time!
I've been searching for this simple basic explanation for so long-_- I wanted to choose a battery for my device, calculate the capacity for it, and I couldn't find ANYTHING, it's so annoying :c Well, at least now I found it..
This taught me more that my school ever can. Im defnitely wathing your vids and subbing. Dont know if you already make videos on normal electronics and electric topics in physics for school, if not you should cause you'd make a great teacher :P
I'm so glad to see your videos popping back up on my feed again. You're always clear, concise, and fun with your explanations. Keep up the stellar work!
Hi, I have a question regarding the internal resistance of 18650 battery 1- What is the risk of building a recycled 18650 lithium battery without checking and measuring the internal resistance? 2- How is the battery built after measuring and knowing the internal resistance values of the 18650 batteries, especially if the internal resistance values for each battery differ from the others for 18650 for recycled lithium batteries?
Thanks for the enlightening explanation in the video. Really hate the shoddy values or hiding the reality of uncertainty. You need to be an expert or ranger nowadays to avoid you will not be cheated by a product that is designed just for maximum sales.
I'm currently testing my surprisingly large collection of AA and AAA batteries with a RS232 logging multimeter and 3.2 ohm load. This makes about 200 ma current draw. I'm logging the data to a computer and working out the total amp-hour capacity of the batteries to estimate their overall maximum charge. Seems to be working pretty good. I'm measuring mA not volts. (If i had arduino or two DMM i'd do both at the same time). Thanks for the vid.
So, in reality, the WattHour rating is actually the area under the discharge curve? Or do the manufacturers just pretend the battery is (say) 3V and lasts 1000 hours of 1mA, and say it's a 3WHour battery?
Like your videos a lot. Can you make a video about powerpack for homes like Tesla Power wall, what are things to know first, the safety, the right materials and calculations.
Thank you! Now I understand how amp-hours and watt-hours work. I have a question though. How do I measure the voltage across a 2200mAh powerbank using a DMM? Or do all powerbanks provide the same amount of voltage? I was thinking of using my powerbank as a source for my future mini-experiments.
Yes. All powerbanks provide the same voltage of 5.2V. This is the standard voltage for a USB port. Yes, the powerbanks can be used for the projects, but have an output current limit of 1Amp to 2.5Amp depending on the size of the powerbank.
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Now I am getting my interest in this subject after becoming a doctor, hope to learn a lot in future..ty
hi, one question:
if i have 4 x 12V 280Ah C100 batteries and want to do a 24V system, is it better to hook them up into:
2 in series + 2 in series and those in paralel or
2 parallel + 2 parallel and those in series ? (To get a better C Rating? Discharging rate?)
as allways there are folks that say the first is better and other say the latter is better ...
@@Broxine It will not mater 2 in series and 2 in parallel or vice verse just wire it to 24v build it as to the easiest way to configure the connections obviously the shorter the wire is the less losses you will have.
Have a good one.
Ok
"C" specifically refers to the discharge capacity, that is the shortest time the battery can be safely completely discharged in quantified in fractions of one hour. Time is measured on a sexagecimal system, in units of 60, so it can be evenly divided 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 ways evenly. So a 20C battery can be discharged in 3 minutes, where a 30C battery can be discharged in 2 minutes, 60C in a minute flat. That way you can multiply to get the total amperage, a 5Ah, 20C cell can discharge in 3 minutes @ 100A, where a 5Ah 30C can discharge @ 150A in 2 minutes.
Thanks for the specific clarification. This should be pinned to the top of the comments.
Hence, you could say that the unit for C ratings is [1/h]
I believe c rating also has an impact on charging time that is perhaps more significant to most users to understand.
sexidecimal... my favorite math system. XD
@@error53ish I am so happy it wasn't just mewho thought of that
This could be the best explanation/tutorial I've seen in ages. Another thing, that AA with 2Ah capacity could've been very expensive back in 2014. I barely see rechargeable AAs these days as 18650 is by far, has become the standard size for battery-powered tools.
When a 6 minute video from 5 years ago explains batteries better than my school did this entire year
Great tutorial!
What you doing here? Xd I loved your videos! Have a nice day
Oh did you learn it from here? I am actually building a speaker with your videos rn.
When's your next cool project? :D Looking forward
wow!
R u here ?u r my favorite ♥️ youtuber
its been more than a week trying to understand these three topics. well you just explained everything in 0.1 h
this is great. nobody talks about how ampere and amp hours are different, and i was confused for long time until got it by myself.
took TH-cam forever but it finally recommended me something useful, this is probably the best explaination of Ah, A, Wh and C I've ever come across. Definitely looking at batteries in a much more reasonable way now.
I was looking at power packs and powerstation, and seeing they had nearly identical or only marginally different mah ratings (which is what I thought was their capacity) even though they were immensely different sizes and hundreds of dollars different in price, I was very confused and this video has been extremely helpful
Great vid, as always. Thanks for the mention!
Yay thank you!
Afrotechmods do you know any other sources for one to llearn electronics?
Moses A
Check out the recommended channels on my channel page
EEVblog
Mo Overall Fitness Hacks
Why don't they just show your vids in physics and engineering classes instead of teaching dude. You've been SO much more helpful to me as a student!
Thanks! In some schools they do!
I like to think of the C rating as implicitly in units of per-hour (1/hour or hour^-1), so that a 2C rating means you could (in theory) discharge such a battery twice in one hour (or once in half an hour). This way, you have a calculation such as 2.2 Ah x 20/hour, and the hours obviously cancel out, leaving a measure of current.
A similar nuisance occurs with electrical power utilities and their kWh measurements - you end up sometimes thinking about kWh/hour, which always strikes me as bizarre, even though it just means kW. Great videos, BTW. :)
Great explanation! A lot of people today are so confused with (Ah) and (A). These are the things the people need to know when buying power banks, vape batteries etc.
Took electronics in high school now years later been playing with solar and a multimeter. Great content for a refresher!
If you have a lipo battery and a sharp object, you can release all that stored energy much much quicker than the C rating says. Unfortunately it causes the battery to exceed its design specifications and malfunction ;-)
How does it work
step one: stab
step two: throw outside
step three: boom
Totally not an electrical engineer or electrician but stumbled across this and it was very clear! thanks man
Just learned more in 6 minutes than in 3 years of high school Electronics class. Subbed.
The way you explain this tedious topic is simply crystal clear and straight forward . Thank you I finally learned it right!
I used to watch you videos back then, man I learn a lot here
That certainly cleared up a few things, I've been curious as to what the amp hours thingy on batteries actually meant. Had to watch some of this a few times before I got it.
What parts were unclear? (just looking for feedback)
Afrotechmods
That's just me, on pretty much any video that's about something I'm not familiar with, sometimes I have to replay something several times before I understand it.
Afrotechmods
I thought your video was very clear, but then I am studying electrical engineering.
Afrotechmods
it's clear. Us dummies just can't absorb and retain new concepts on the first pass a lot of the time :)
Afrotechmods you were very clear on this video. However, I too had to watch more than once since this is all new to me. At least you get more views from us newbies!! Lol.
I didn't even listen to it. I read your captions and everything made sense. Nice!
I'm so glad you're making videos again.
I have a question.
Why do rechargeable batteries have mAh ratings on them but non-rechargeable ones do not? Aren't regular chemical batteries also able to deliver a set amount of current in amp hours?
I'm not sure why they do this but it annoys me too. You can usually find the capacity of alkalines etc. by looking up their datasheet.
Somebody else may've already figured this out in the 2+ years since you posted this and commented about it, but I think I figured out C-rating.
Amp-hours is just another way of saying coulombs. 1 ampere of current for 1 second is 1 coulomb of charge. So 1As = 1C. Therefore, 1Ah = 3.6kC and 1mAh = 3.6C. (But it's a lot easier to say 2.2mAh and do the math off of that than to say 7.92C and have to divide that by 3.6C *first* to convert it to mAh.)
The C-rating just converts coulombs or amp-seconds to amperes, but abstracts a whole lot of messy physics and chemistry calculations to save the common average person time and mental energy.
The C-rating is effectively a single scalar that can be used to simplify a whole complicated mess of math including the rate of charge transfer between the two terminals of the battery (which accounts for the maximum rate of the chemical processes inside) as well as other physics effects that come into play.
It takes all of that math and boils it down to a dimensionless number that divides the battery's charge (amp-seconds or coulombs) by the time unit and then multiplies the nominal charge rating to give you... how many amps the battery can deliver instantaneously.
The one number is the simplified approximation of multiple derivatives for multiple effects occurring simultaneously.
Confusing? Yes, for the electrical engineer. Because marketing bullpucky makes little sense to engineers. But at the same time it can save time for the engineer by providing an adequate approximation of the battery's capability to deliver current.
But to the average person who may not know quite so much? One simple little C-rating number they can use to multiply the battery's nominal charge (given in amp-hours) is a cheap, quick, dirty bit of mental math that saves a whole heck of a lot of time when shopping for a battery that can deliver the needed current.
EDIT
My roommate also just pointed out that C-rating also works exceptionally well when talking to, say, management when proposing that you need to buy this more expensive battery over this cheaper battery. Management may or may not be able to so intuitively grasp electrical engineering. A simple number you can use to multiply a battery's charge rating to give you another number saves time.
TL;DR: C-rating is marketing bullpucky, but it's marketing bullpucky that *works* and don't stink. :3
TIDE
I don't usually comment on these types of videos but this was sooo helpful thank you. We were given an assignment with this in it but it wasn't covered in any lectures.
The best video about batteries and their units i've seen so far. Congratulations!
Great video! Thanks for clarifying that the units do not actually work out when dealing with C ratings.
Great video! I always wondered if a machine would only take a number of amps it needed, or if you had too many amps if it would fail. now I know thanks to you!
Well done tutorial on battery basics. Many are clueless.
I will have to watch it a couple more times. My head is spinning. Good instruction. If I were smarter I could say you made it easier to understand
If you're confused, you should be because this has not been explained adequately. Particularly in relation to C ratings. And not a mention of batter packs construction relating to series and parallel connection and how this relates to Amps Mah and C.
Great video!! Amp hours had me buggin'..lol. The last type battery you showed, we use those type in drone racing/freestyle and they're used in many RC hobbies. With high performance drones, the c rating is very important to us, the higher the better performance, unfortunately the cost goes up too. With an average race/freestyle drone you can hit speeds up to 70mph+ but there is also a lot of sharp turns, flips and all around changes of directions in seconds, which means the throttle stick is constantly moving.
Each of the 4 motors can pull appx 15-20amps, and the speed controller chips that operate them are rated at about 40amps for buffer from bursts. So imagine the energy draw on the battery, from 0 to max and back down again, 30 times or so during a flight. What happens to us when battery starts to get low, at the end of a flight, we notice what we call voltage sag, looking at it on a flight data chart, you'll see throttle input increase, and as the quad starts to gain momentum, the battery can't handle it, and the voltage sags, just for a second or so, but in racing that's an eternity..lol. So the higher c rating of a battery, you get lower resistance and way less voltage sag near the tail end of your flight, sometimes when you need it most trying to race to the finish line.
Couldn't figure out how long my power bank will keep my lens heater warm.
30 mins of googling nothing, what the fakk is this magic.
Found this video after looking through a few TH-cam videos. Now I can safely say that my power bank should keep my lens heater heating for about 8 and a half hours.
Extremely useful video. Well explained to a practical level that's useful, compared to a lot of resources out there that state how amp-hours, watt-hours, and all that relate to each other, which makes no sense when trying to figure out how long a powerbank will last if you're me and know absolutely nothing about anything.
Meow
Great video indeed, but you forgot to mention one very importand thing (concidering you show us the discahrge curves you should mention that): Wh is not always Ah*V because voltage tends to drop significantly and with higher loads it drops more significantly and much faster. As you said "idealy" it IS Ah*V, but practicaly it's lower, and the difference is sometimes noticeable - with higher discharge current and higher voltage drop it reaches some 15-25% drop in Wh capacity. Like on these curves for that 1.2V battery - average voltage @ 400 mA is ~1.25V and 1.9 Ah (1.25*1.9=2.375Wh) and for 4A it will be ~1.1V and 1.7 Ah (1.1*1.7=1.87Wh)
Now let's compare: 1.7/1.9 is 0.89 ratio, which is bad but not as bad as 1.87/2.375 is 0.78 ratio.
And there you have the reason that most inverters cannot run an electric motor that is close to the stated surge, because of the voltage drop required to get the motor running. now if there were some supercaps of the proper value included in the circuit of the inverter input that might make a difference.
I think the C rating was introduced to give consumers the ability to know if the battery matches the electrical load of motors. Mostly the RC market for cars, planes. As not all electric motors are equal.
Excellent tutorial. Same as battery advertised in Wh / V = Ah
Now I know what those C ratings are for and why people were multiplying them with the mAh. Thank you!
I've been waiting for a long time to hear these terms and processes explained to me. Thanks!
If power consumption is measured in watts you can convert watts to amps by simply dividing the watts by the voltage you are using.
I wish everyone doing a review that has anything to do with batteries would watch this. It annoys me so much that manufacturers claim a certain mAh capacity when their packs are actually connected in series, and many reviewers don’t understand why mAh can be super misleading.
thanks about the explanation, Finally I know about C rate and relation to Amper Hours. The video have helped me understand my problem
I never liked C ratings either and you are right, they are confusing. What I do for my flashlights is just get a good brand since they don't drain batteries quickly anyhow. I use the IMR 18650s and other similar cells. The potential for danger is when you have more than one cell in a flashlight because you must balance them or they can vent or explode or maybe even burn a house down in some cases.
The world's best teacher
Can you do a video about how you acquired your knowledge (education, career, etc)? I'm taking electrician classes right now so I'm curious. Also, your videos are awesome.
wow, what a great video to gain an intuitive understanding for all these numbers!
wtf 9 amps from a double a battery. you're my fave man.
great explanation now I understand how this works and what's the difference in between
4:35 - yes that's right! coz in the context of physics, power = work done / time. so obviously work must be in the unit Joule thus Power has to do with energy.
This guy teaches me more than my whole 16 years in school
Thanks for this. It's a nightmare doing a battery bank with solar for a camper.
Paging igetcha69 (Scott)...
I think this may come in handy, especially when answering questions you may be asked quite often.
Thanks Afrotechmods :-)
Another fine and helpful production. I plan patronage when my income seems stable. Until then you continue to have my gratitude.
nice one mate, will take a look :)
Don't forget that you shouldn't draw 88 amps from a nearly discharged battery even though your C rating is 40 and your amp hours is 2.2.
In reality you should follow this guideline. C rating X remaining AH of battery. Or in other words, as you discharge your battery you should draw less current or you risk damaging the battery or shortening it's life cycle. It's not that the C rating changes as the battery depletes, it's that the AH remaining in the battery that decreases. So in a properly designed system you should monitor how much energy has gone in/out of your battery and limit your charge/discharge current based off that rather than your raw AH rating X C rating.
For example: your battery is 2.2ah at C40. You have discharged it down to 1.5ah. So now 1.5 X 40 is 60 amps max current draw.
Thank you very much!! A tutorial well explained like no other. Now I know what others couldn’t explain .
Pretty easy even without the equation of voltage x capacity. Because with Voltage x Current will basically give the same answer. So 9.6 volts x 2 Amps = 19.2 Watts, or 19.2 Watts for 1 hour, or 19.2 watt-hours.
For the little battery, 1.2v x 2A = 2.4 Watts, or 2.4 watts for 1 hour, or 2.4 watt-hours. Easy.
u really rocked it bro.....it is very easy to understand by way u teach...
you explain better than most professors out there
so correct me if I'm wrong. If our battery capacity is known and we like to know how many times we could charge our phone it doesn't really matter how high the voltage or Ah or our battery is. But rather what our phone could receive in terms of Amps and Voltage. right?
Excellent knowledge thank you for sharing
Highly appreciated, far better than my professors.
Excellent video. Difficult topic explained in clear and in understandable terms.
C rating = How much time faster than 1h can you discharge the battery.
So 1C for 1000mah can give 1amp for 1h
6C for 1000mah can give 6amp for 10min
AnthonyTV
Think it's something like this:
Discharge amp = mAh * C
Discharge time = (Generally since Ah) 1 hour/C or C = 1hr/discharge time.
1000mAh*6 = 6 A
60min/6 = 10 min
6 A for 10 minutes
The discharge amp * discharge time should always be equal for one battery.
So you mean It is equal?
I like this definition. It avoids the inconsistency of Ah and A. My suggestion:
C= (Safely deliverable current up to full discharge) / (Nom. Deliverable Current up to full discharge in 1 hour)
or also
C= 1h / (time to safely full discharge).
Zephree Zen Gold well yes, however the 1C in this case cant provide more than 1 Amp without blowing up.
The 6C can provide anywhere from 0 to 6 Amps before it blows up. Same capacity, just different maximum ampere outputs.
@@anthonyvictor883 Find A, T
A=BC
T=60/C
A= amps
B= battery ah rating
C= battery C rating
T= time in minutes
Short, clear and informative. That was very good.
Thanks for the video. Immediately clarify the areas I could not understand.
Brilliant video as usual, my brain loved it. So did I.
Brilliant video as usual, my brain loved it. So did I.
Brilliant video as usual, my brain loved it. So did I.
TheRogerx3 Brilliant usual as video, my love brained it
So I did.
Brilliant video as usual, my brain loved it. So did I.
Brilliant video as usual, my brain loved it. So did I.
Great video. I'd like to have seen a little more mention of the hazard of over discharging some batteries. Venting a Li-Po is bad lol.
Tutorial request. Could you please explain the principle behind capacitor choice in circuits (when to choose ceramic vs. electrolytic, polar vs. non-polar etc.) I always get lost with the huge variety of ceramic and plastic caps. I often pick random non-polar ones based on capacitance and find that they work equally well in PWM circuits for example. The only thing I've noticed is that cheap brown ceramics react to temperature much more than blue and yellow ones. Tantalum caps are most stable. But I'm pretty sure there's more to caps than that. Of all the components I find them the most mysterious and non-intuitive. Thanks.
GREAT!.. NOW I UNDERSTAND CLEARLY ABOUT BATTERY CAPACITY IN HRS, WHRS AND C RATINGS
THANKS BRO
Great explanation to calculate battery life and understand C ratings!
We need more videos on batteries like this!
Wow! This video is very well done and clarified a lot. Thank you!!
Excellent once again. The esr in some batteries can just be down right annoying
Cool!! But I heard that if you connect an ammeter directly to the battery terminals, it would be very destructive, especially without a load.
A Masterpiece as always....!
Ah has been a mystery for me for years untill now..
Great video! I'm trying to power a 5V sensor with a 3.7v booster/charger pcb. What's the minimum mAh battery you think I should use? I have a 120maH lipo on it now and the board seems to dwindle and looses power 😞. Thanks for your time!
I've been searching for this simple basic explanation for so long-_- I wanted to choose a battery for my device, calculate the capacity for it, and I couldn't find ANYTHING, it's so annoying :c
Well, at least now I found it..
Good voice, clearly speech and very good videos.
This taught me more that my school ever can. Im defnitely wathing your vids and subbing. Dont know if you already make videos on normal electronics and electric topics in physics for school, if not you should cause you'd make a great teacher :P
Your videos are awesome. Could you please make a video explaining what it means for a electrical component to draw too much current?
well taught. appreciate the illustrations. will make me into a smarter and more capable shopper for sure.
I'm so glad to see your videos popping back up on my feed again. You're always clear, concise, and fun with your explanations. Keep up the stellar work!
Hi,
I have a question regarding the internal resistance of 18650 battery
1- What is the risk of building a recycled 18650 lithium battery without checking and measuring the internal resistance?
2- How is the battery built after measuring and knowing the internal resistance values of the 18650 batteries, especially if the internal resistance values for each battery differ from the others for 18650 for recycled lithium batteries?
Thanks for the enlightening explanation in the video. Really hate the shoddy values or hiding the reality of uncertainty. You need to be an expert or ranger nowadays to avoid you will not be cheated by a product that is designed just for maximum sales.
From the store, those smith chart T-shirts - very tasteful, just bought one
just think of A as Liter, makes sense very fast !
I'm currently testing my surprisingly large collection of AA and AAA batteries with a RS232 logging multimeter and 3.2 ohm load. This makes about 200 ma current draw. I'm logging the data to a computer and working out the total amp-hour capacity of the batteries to estimate their overall maximum charge. Seems to be working pretty good. I'm measuring mA not volts. (If i had arduino or two DMM i'd do both at the same time). Thanks for the vid.
I've always been so confused by batteries, especially in terms of voltage and current. Thank you for explaining this!
thank you , I've got a circuits midterm in 6 hours and this helped!
You've cleared my confusions...thanks.
Watt-hours is Power, P=VI. Amp hours is Capacitance, Q=It
Very well produced video and accurate information. Bravo!
So, in reality, the WattHour rating is actually the area under the discharge curve?
Or do the manufacturers just pretend the battery is (say) 3V and lasts 1000 hours of 1mA, and say it's a 3WHour battery?
Amazing video, exactly what I was looking for.
Magnificent and easy to understand.
Thank you.
Like your videos a lot. Can you make a video about powerpack for homes like Tesla Power wall, what are things to know first, the safety, the right materials and calculations.
I getting into rc builds with my son and O'boy have we burned up batteries. I gotta watch this again 4 or 5 more time and take note.....again
I Learned so much from you, thanks for that! Things i Never thought i could grasp, now become clear to my aging Brain. Greetings from Germany !
Who r this assholes who put dislikes
Thank you! Now I understand how amp-hours and watt-hours work.
I have a question though. How do I measure the voltage across a 2200mAh powerbank using a DMM? Or do all powerbanks provide the same amount of voltage? I was thinking of using my powerbank as a source for my future mini-experiments.
Yes. All powerbanks provide the same voltage of 5.2V. This is the standard voltage for a USB port. Yes, the powerbanks can be used for the projects, but have an output current limit of 1Amp to 2.5Amp depending on the size of the powerbank.
Now I can understand what is c rating thank you very much
Thank you so much for explaining it so nicely. You’ve answered quite a few things I’ve had on my mind.
Thanks, I could understood c rating of the batteries.
- Now, are you confuse?
Me: [nodding to the screen]
- Because you should be
Me: *smirk*
Dear Sir,
Nice expiation. Please be good enough to explain when you discharge 2000mAx1Hr what will be the terminal voltage.
brs...VCM.