Nice and neat pcbs. I half expected to see some plated slots so you can play musical chairs with the cap position. No actual music though.. or chairs lol. The rectifier could be untouched and keep the wires to keep the look. Your sneaky pcb does all the work :-D Keep tinkering :-D
Maybe you have mentioned it in a previous video, but is there a particylar reason why you choose to use 4 discrete diodes and not a bridge rectifier? It would take up less space on the PCB, and that could come in handy espessially on the smaler PCB.
It’s more a force of habit than anything else. Also, there are various pin spacings for bridge rectifiers, but with diodes you always fit them perfectly 😊
I am still surprised you can get the guts out of those old filter caps. I now had 3 old Philips in a row and 2 Erres, and with all of them the inside of those caps was just totally gunked up and stuck. So unfortunately I can't use these kind of PCB's :(
The idea of using these is if you DON’T want to restuff the caps. To restuff them, you can use a little heat to soften up the gunk a little and then it comes out quite easily.
The spacing between AC and negative pin is not a good design choice, honestly. You could swap 2 diodes and achieve much safer (and potentially less noisier) result.
For secondary voltages we only have to comply with functional creepage and clearances. Most definitely basis at best. Totally different story for primary mains voltages, something a lot of people mix up.
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.15 (2/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qbHbshrA1f0/mqdefault.jpg)
Muitos parabéns! Excelente!
Obrigado
I love your Ideas .
👍
Very cool and nifty little boards..Great ideas Manuel..Love the design, just so much to learn..Ed..uk..😀
👍
Nice design change, M.
Thanks 😊
Nice and neat pcbs.
I half expected to see some plated slots so you can play musical chairs with the cap position.
No actual music though.. or chairs lol.
The rectifier could be untouched and keep the wires to keep the look.
Your sneaky pcb does all the work :-D
Keep tinkering :-D
👍
Do you know which specific videos you have gone over how to choose dropping resistors for silicon rectifier replacement?
Check out the one on the actual pcb project
@@electronicsoldandnewThanks!
Maybe you have mentioned it in a previous video, but is there a particylar reason why you choose to use 4 discrete diodes and not a bridge rectifier?
It would take up less space on the PCB, and that could come in handy espessially on the smaler PCB.
It’s more a force of habit than anything else. Also, there are various pin spacings for bridge rectifiers, but with diodes you always fit them perfectly 😊
Do you have any selenium rectifier boards for an old 1 and 3 volt tube radio?
I’m afraid not
Fantastic
👍
I am still surprised you can get the guts out of those old filter caps. I now had 3 old Philips in a row and 2 Erres, and with all of them the inside of those caps was just totally gunked up and stuck. So unfortunately I can't use these kind of PCB's :(
The idea of using these is if you DON’T want to restuff the caps. To restuff them, you can use a little heat to soften up the gunk a little and then it comes out quite easily.
@@electronicsoldandnew Like boiling it into water or so? I have tried many things, but no luck yet :(
Try a heat gun, or even a hair drier
The spacing between AC and negative pin is not a good design choice, honestly. You could swap 2 diodes and achieve much safer (and potentially less noisier) result.
You’re probably right.
For secondary voltages we only have to comply with functional creepage and clearances.
Most definitely basis at best. Totally different story for primary mains voltages, something a lot of people mix up.
@@p_mouse8676 I'm not sure what you are trying to say here