@@TheYaroslav77 mm my problem it just wait cooling to 50 degrees, anyway I'm using M190 R30 to get the bed to 30 degrees but it just cool to 50 degrees
a question, to me it does everything right until I get to cool the plate to 30 degrees after it does not make the code to move the piece it does not read it and does a strange thing it goes up and continues to extrude wire what to do? thank you
D to put a semi colen before the commands that dissable your stepper motors it will be in end gcode if u dont turn this off it will disable the xyz motors and will not move simply put a semi colen before the comand to make it a comment and it will be ignored !
Probably some limitation in your firmware. If not familiar with editing firmware, I suggest to send a command that stops the bed heating (just after M190 R30, and add a pause command long enough for the bed to cool down to 30. With some margin on that pause, because your room temperature has an influence)
Depending on your bed adhesion this could put a lot of shear on your rods. If you have parts, I recommend you fab one of these. If not, they're still open and shipping as long as the US postal service runs. Just FYI - www.robots-everywhere.com/products/3d-printer-broom/ Matteo Borri invented this ten years ago. Buy one or copy it, the design is open source under a creative commons NC-Attribution-Sharealike license.
I search for that too. I find how do it in file : M808 Lxxx (xxx need replace to 0 for infinite or number) {parts code} M808 But unfortunatly this loop code don’t work on my printers Aquila x2 x3and Ender v3, AM8 :/ maybe cause the syntaxe ? So if you find a solution, please tell me…
@@brico3d779 I'm not absolutely positive but I think it's because it wasn't compiled in the Marlin firmware. The people who made the printer figured you don't need it.
I'm working on the same trick that this guy is using in the video but to do the nozzle I'm just adding an offset to The Purge lines of 1 mm. And because of my version of marlin doesn't have the 808 loop I'm adding the files one right after another but adding in an offset Purge for each print.
I found the below code for a WHILE loop. Would this work instead of copying and pasting the program? www.cnccookbook.com/cnc-g-code-macro-conditions-looping/ #100 = 1 WHILE [#100 LE 5] DO1 (Some G-Code Blocks Go Here to Be Repeated Each Loop) #100 = #100 + 1 (Increase #100 by 1 each iteration of the loop) END1
ever heard "the right tool for the job"...your precision positioning stage / nozzle are most certainly NOT the the right tool for the job. This is the second video I have seen on this, I sincerely hope it does not catch on. If you really need to start new parts unattended, build a proper, dedicated mechanism to remove parts. That would be clever, this is just a lazy mans way of slowly destroying a printer.
Thanks for you comment. I'm happy to tell you that your hope is granted: my printer is fine after +3000 parts printed like this. This was predictable as when the nozzle pushes the part, there is no resistance AT ALL: the glass / FR4 completely releases the part once cold (~40°C). No constraint at all on the printed. "this is just a lazy mans way of slowly destroying a printer" => This a trick made to help people print more shields during COVID crisis. "build a proper, dedicated mechanism to remove parts" => I'm sure you are really good at that, as you talk about it.
@@displaydashtechnoparts5264 in all honestly, I probably glossed over your video a bit too fast, and I have no experience printing on glass. if there really is no resistance, I have less of a problem with it. There are people breaking stuck parts loose with their hotend and that most certainly is a bad idea. So you are saying when its cold the part is no longer bonded at all to the bed? if that's the case, couldn't you just jerk the bed and let it fall off? "build a proper, dedicated mechanism to remove parts" => I'm sure you are really good at that, as you talk about it. not sure if that's sarcasm or not, but yah I am more than capable of fabricating such a device as are many people. and fyi, I too am printing covid related parts, primarily face masks
Hi Zoltan, the code prints 40x2 parts, in about 30 hours. Ok it's not "infinite". But in comparison with normal print of one single part, it looks infinite. I set 40x2 parts, but you can make 100, 1000, 10000 by copy/past the content of one loop if you want to. Note that at some point, you have to replace the filament spool. So indeed, it's not real "infinite". But what is infinite in this world ?
Your hack with the transparency and cutting the holes for the leveling knobs is one of those simple genius ideas. I love it!
I have been looking for many looping videos.. and this video is the perfect one for me.. really suits my needs.. thanks a lot..
still works in 2022, it was very helpfull!
The best video in regard to this topic. Thanks so much
There is no way to make it loop a certain portion of the code instead of using copy/paste?
Great idea! Gonna try that... Not sure if the Cetus printers we have will do that, but looking at the LK4 Pro now and I think it might work on those.
As long as they have a heating bed, and a glass surface it should be OK !
beau travail !
M190 isn't working in my marlin 2.0.9 for this, it wailing to heating plate, but isn't wait to cooling plate.
I having the same issue, did you fix it?
@@lainnovatienda Yes, for cooling you are need use another parameter. S - wait only when heating, R - wait for cooling or heating.
@@TheYaroslav77 mm my problem it just wait cooling to 50 degrees, anyway I'm using M190 R30 to get the bed to 30 degrees but it just cool to 50 degrees
this is nicely made, I tried downloading the 0.4 file but it says "sold out", is there any other way we can download it?
Solved, you can get it now !
Thanks
this video is so good just why so you want it to be fast with slowness your quality will be better
a question, to me it does everything right until I get to cool the plate to 30 degrees after it does not make the code to move the piece it does not read it and does a strange thing it goes up and continues to extrude wire what to do? thank you
Hi Francesco !
Could you share a video of that issue ?
@@displaydashtechnoparts5264 ok where can i send you videos?
D to put a semi colen before the commands that dissable your stepper motors it will be in end gcode if u dont turn this off it will disable the xyz motors and will not move simply put a semi colen before the comand to make it a comment and it will be ignored !
Hey I tried to pay and download but it says it's soldout? Bummer.
Hey Nick, you can get it now
Isn't there a GOTO command in gcode?
Not in marlin firmware
M190 R30 isn't working for me, for some reason it just cool the bed to 50° degrees
Probably some limitation in your firmware. If not familiar with editing firmware, I suggest to send a command that stops the bed heating (just after M190 R30, and add a pause command long enough for the bed to cool down to 30. With some margin on that pause, because your room temperature has an influence)
@@pierrelecoz6313 I don't know a pause timer command in Marlin
Depending on your bed adhesion this could put a lot of shear on your rods. If you have parts, I recommend you fab one of these. If not, they're still open and shipping as long as the US postal service runs.
Just FYI - www.robots-everywhere.com/products/3d-printer-broom/
Matteo Borri invented this ten years ago. Buy one or copy it, the design is open source under a creative commons NC-Attribution-Sharealike license.
Isn't there a g code to do a loop? M808???
I search for that too. I find how do it in file :
M808 Lxxx (xxx need replace to 0 for infinite or number)
{parts code}
M808
But unfortunatly this loop code don’t work on my printers Aquila x2 x3and Ender v3, AM8 :/ maybe cause the syntaxe ?
So if you find a solution, please tell me…
@@brico3d779 I'm not absolutely positive but I think it's because it wasn't compiled in the Marlin firmware. The people who made the printer figured you don't need it.
I'm working on the same trick that this guy is using in the video but to do the nozzle I'm just adding an offset to The Purge lines of 1 mm. And because of my version of marlin doesn't have the 808 loop I'm adding the files one right after another but adding in an offset Purge for each print.
I found the below code for a WHILE loop. Would this work instead of copying and pasting the program?
www.cnccookbook.com/cnc-g-code-macro-conditions-looping/
#100 = 1
WHILE [#100 LE 5] DO1
(Some G-Code Blocks Go Here to Be Repeated Each Loop)
#100 = #100 + 1 (Increase #100 by 1 each iteration of the loop)
END1
Hi Mark !
I've looked at it. But I'm pretty sure the Ender 3 Marlin Firmware won't support theses loop commands.
Let me know !
Did you really need to have that cute accent with those baby blue eyes?
Feeling awkward now :D
ever heard "the right tool for the job"...your precision positioning stage / nozzle are most certainly NOT the the right tool for the job. This is the second video I have seen on this, I sincerely hope it does not catch on.
If you really need to start new parts unattended, build a proper, dedicated mechanism to remove parts. That would be clever, this is just a lazy mans way of slowly destroying a printer.
Thanks for you comment. I'm happy to tell you that your hope is granted: my printer is fine after +3000 parts printed like this. This was predictable as when the nozzle pushes the part, there is no resistance AT ALL: the glass / FR4 completely releases the part once cold (~40°C). No constraint at all on the printed.
"this is just a lazy mans way of slowly destroying a printer" => This a trick made to help people print more shields during COVID crisis.
"build a proper, dedicated mechanism to remove parts" => I'm sure you are really good at that, as you talk about it.
@@displaydashtechnoparts5264
in all honestly, I probably glossed over your video a bit too fast, and I have no experience printing on glass. if there really is no resistance, I have less of a problem with it. There are people breaking stuck parts loose with their hotend and that most certainly is a bad idea.
So you are saying when its cold the part is no longer bonded at all to the bed? if that's the case, couldn't you just jerk the bed and let it fall off?
"build a proper, dedicated mechanism to remove parts" => I'm sure you are really good at that, as you talk about it.
not sure if that's sarcasm or not, but yah I am more than capable of fabricating such a device as are many people.
and fyi, I too am printing covid related parts, primarily face masks
Clickbait, this is not an infinite loop, runs the code, and stops when it ends.
Hi Zoltan, the code prints 40x2 parts, in about 30 hours.
Ok it's not "infinite". But in comparison with normal print of one single part, it looks infinite.
I set 40x2 parts, but you can make 100, 1000, 10000 by copy/past the content of one loop if you want to.
Note that at some point, you have to replace the filament spool. So indeed, it's not real "infinite".
But what is infinite in this world ?