ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- For ATV and SXS work like gear reduction installs in central FL email me at: mudpuppyoffroadllc@gmail.com
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I think the bolt on side looks great. I would use angle iron tho so the flat can't bend
Nice Work Looks Great!💪
Also I love your videos Ive learned alot and its always enjoyable seeing your content!
One thing I see with the welded side vs the bolt and support arm side is that the welded piece is in tension / the shock wants to push out away from the support so all shear force at the shock is kinda localized at the “tip” of the lift where the bolt meets the bracket. On the non welded side the forces are better in a “line” so it has more area to spread that shear in the direction the shock wants to push. Both will probably work but the non welded appears to be the better option, it just has more material in the direction the force is gonna be
I agree. The only downside with the bracket method is that there is some twisting on the tabs because it's kind of only a single shear support but for an ATV it's plenty strong
If you can figure a way to build a 1.5-2” lift front and back a few guys on a 700 fb group would buy them.
I'm sure I could but some s***** company like Rough country would just knock it off and I'd never make any money so it's not really worth my time to sell parts
@@MudPuppyOffroad probably so. It just sucks right now because there’s not much aftermarket support for the G3 platform.
@@canamxmr4760 I sent my video to a few fabricators. Maybe someone will put it into production
@@MudPuppyOffroad thanks man. Appreciate what you do for the community!
Will the s3 front a arm kit work for the gen3 500 outlander?
It's not advertised to fit and it barely fit mine so I don't know LOL.
Hey I was wondering if you were to build a 300 exactly like the one you built how much it would cost? Like the stretch 54 gr and every thing how much it would cost
I have eight different 300s so I'm not sure which one you're talking about, but the price is ridiculously high because you can't get parts for them anymore
Hey what do yall think about the highlifter 6” lift for the 23 can am outlander 1000xmr, yall got any experience with it? Im trying to figure out who makes the best 6” lift as its something im looking to do and everyone says different things!
I ran that satv one on my 1000 renegade. It was ok. Probably better off spending money on clutching though
Doesn't it soften the suspension when you move the bottom out and stiffen it when you move the top out? as in more perpendicular the shock/spring is the more stiff it is?
its not that simple, it depends. the angle of the shock relative to the arm and the motion ratio matter alot but its different for just about every machine. depends on the factory geometry and how far you move things. but if you move the bottom of the shock toward the wheel you lose travel but gain stiffness (unless the shock is super angled)
Going out / making the shocks farther away from vertical increases how much the shock compresses to get the same amount of up down movement. Aka the long side of a right triangle is longer than the vertical side, so 1” of vertical movements makes like 1.1” the shock compresses. The shock acts “stiffer” because it has to move more for the same amount of travel
Do you think 32s are too crazy for an xmr 650 with aftermarket primary and secondary clutches? Tia
No. You will feel them though. Check out let dirt fly. Before he put an 850 in his bike it was a 650. Ran 32s in several videos.
a light 32 is ok... if the clutches are tuned right
@MudPuppyOffroad silverbacks too heavy? I want aztex but they are out of stock and I found some silverbacks pretty cheap in marketplace
@@organabis7132 32 silverbacks are way too hard core for that machine
@@MudPuppyOffroad guess imma have to wait for aztex to get a shipment in