Roland & Hal, Thank you for taking the time to go over your Brass model techniques with regards to painting & prepping. Very informative. I'm sold. Can't wait to see the next how-to segment. Thanx Thom...
A lot of good tips here. Very interesting to me as someone who has done many models. Not any brass yet but looking to. Would have liked to see the sandblasting process and tools and more clarity on the chemical etching process an exact product. The video could have been shortened to 45 min. Not really necessary to show or at least not fast forward the masking and half of the decal process. Micromark makes a decal bath now that I'd highly recommend over this. You set the decal on the sponge and lower into the water and raise back out. This way you don't loose them in a big open bath. I also like to use warm RO or distilled water to avoid any white spots. I'd recommend using tweezers to hold the decals and slide them off directly onto the final surface with the brush. I don't know for sure but always thought the decal paper has some adhesive to it. It would seem like you're losing adhesive if the decal goes on your finger before being applied. It's not just a wetted piece of plastic sheet going on the model or it would dry and fall off. Would like to know what temp the 300 watt bulb gets the inside of the mailbox to in case somebody just wanted to use their oven. It's a neat idea but for the home modeler that doesn't do this all the time, it'd be nice not to have to buy a mail box and commit the space for that. I had never considered baking the paint or decals but good to know. Interesitng to see no primer used. The paint job looked good to me. I know the experts will pick it apart and it seems like this guy was picky himself. I think if you got ten people that airbrush together, nobody would agree on the right technique between them. If you're halfway careful with an airbrush you can't screw it up. Nitrogen idea is good. Hadn't considered that as an option.
Cracks me up when people in other videos think they need a $600 airbrush to do this lol. My H&S Infinity and Iwata's are nice but I can still do Car bodies and Trains easily with my Pasche H or Badger 350. These days I just use my Badger Patriot 105 and everything turns out beautiful. Great video!!
You sir are a master. Much appreciated. I think I noticed you are using Scalecoat 1 #10 black although I could not find the palce where you mention it directly. I have to repaint an S scale tender body that I had painted with black lacquer. I had a problem with gloss overcoat so am starting over. You pretty well convinced me to revert to Scalecoat which is my normal go to paint. It is much more forgiving that lacquer that goes on and dries wherever its put - sometimes in the air on the way to the model. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Interesting video ! I found some of your tips and techniques useful. The mailbox oven is a great idea !!! Ferric Chloride works very nicely on brass BUT it needs to be diluted with water. It leaves an etched surface that is suitable for painting after being washed to neutralize the acid.
Señores, vivo fuera de los EEUU, y a falta de suplidores de pinturas de hobbies en mi país... las que venden no me sirven; sorprendanse, uso laca acrilica automotriz, pero disuelta con solvente (thinner fino) a consistencia de tinta para que pueda aplicarse con el aerógrafo, con matizador para acabado satinado. Aplicada a 20 y algo de libras de presión. Y sí, pistolas de mezcla interna, no esta de Badger porque son muy caras, compresor de aire y trampas de humedad. Uso premier en metal ( zinc o bronce) con un premier etching primer, que vieran qué tragedia es poner ese producto porque casi arruina los aerógrafos y ese producto tiene alta adherencia al metal del modelo. Saludos desde Costa Rica.
@@MondayMorningExpress What are the safety concerns surrounding putting a flammable fluid like lacquer thinner in an ultrasonic cleaner? Is there one? Why utilize the separate beaker in what I assume is water?
I believe the container on the base is the one attached to the ultrasonic cleaner, and probably just has water in it. The ultrasound waves can then be transmitted to the cleaning solution(thinners in this case) in the larger container on top.
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The most comprehensive video on painting brass. I have learned many things that I never knew. Thanks!
That was the most fun 2 hour video I’ve seen yet, really makes me want to try this, thanks Hal and Roland for taking the time to show us this.
Roland & Hal,
Thank you for taking the time to go over your Brass model techniques with regards to painting & prepping. Very informative. I'm sold. Can't wait to see the next how-to segment. Thanx Thom...
Excellent video! One of the best train channels around.
A lot of good tips here. Very interesting to me as someone who has done many models. Not any brass yet but looking to. Would have liked to see the sandblasting process and tools and more clarity on the chemical etching process an exact product. The video could have been shortened to 45 min. Not really necessary to show or at least not fast forward the masking and half of the decal process.
Micromark makes a decal bath now that I'd highly recommend over this. You set the decal on the sponge and lower into the water and raise back out. This way you don't loose them in a big open bath. I also like to use warm RO or distilled water to avoid any white spots.
I'd recommend using tweezers to hold the decals and slide them off directly onto the final surface with the brush. I don't know for sure but always thought the decal paper has some adhesive to it. It would seem like you're losing adhesive if the decal goes on your finger before being applied. It's not just a wetted piece of plastic sheet going on the model or it would dry and fall off.
Would like to know what temp the 300 watt bulb gets the inside of the mailbox to in case somebody just wanted to use their oven. It's a neat idea but for the home modeler that doesn't do this all the time, it'd be nice not to have to buy a mail box and commit the space for that. I had never considered baking the paint or decals but good to know. Interesitng to see no primer used.
The paint job looked good to me. I know the experts will pick it apart and it seems like this guy was picky himself. I think if you got ten people that airbrush together, nobody would agree on the right technique between them. If you're halfway careful with an airbrush you can't screw it up. Nitrogen idea is good. Hadn't considered that as an option.
Cracks me up when people in other videos think they need a $600 airbrush to do this lol. My H&S Infinity and Iwata's are nice but I can still do Car bodies and Trains easily with my Pasche H or Badger 350. These days I just use my Badger Patriot 105 and everything turns out beautiful. Great video!!
Excellent video! Love it ♥
You sir are a master. Much appreciated. I think I noticed you are using Scalecoat 1 #10 black although I could not find the palce where you mention it directly. I have to repaint an S scale tender body that I had painted with black lacquer. I had a problem with gloss overcoat so am starting over. You pretty well convinced me to revert to Scalecoat which is my normal go to paint. It is much more forgiving that lacquer that goes on and dries wherever its put - sometimes in the air on the way to the model. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Interesting video ! I found some of your tips and techniques useful. The mailbox oven is a great idea !!! Ferric Chloride works very nicely on brass BUT it needs to be diluted with water. It leaves an etched surface that is suitable for painting after being washed to neutralize the acid.
Thanks so much for this.
Where can I get one of those shirts!? Great info on painting, Im ready to give it a shot!
would have liked to see the completed model at the end after watching such a long video, great info anyway though.
Can you give a little additional information on how you sandblasted the models. Specifically the tools you used.
Señores, vivo fuera de los EEUU, y a falta de suplidores de pinturas de hobbies en mi país... las que venden no me sirven; sorprendanse, uso laca acrilica automotriz, pero disuelta con solvente (thinner fino) a consistencia de tinta para que pueda aplicarse con el aerógrafo, con matizador para acabado satinado. Aplicada a 20 y algo de libras de presión. Y sí, pistolas de mezcla interna, no esta de Badger porque son muy caras, compresor de aire y trampas de humedad. Uso premier en metal ( zinc o bronce) con un premier etching primer, que vieran qué tragedia es poner ese producto porque casi arruina los aerógrafos y ese producto tiene alta adherencia al metal del modelo. Saludos desde Costa Rica.
Would love to know what you used to build your mailbox oven and how you did it. Its a great idea
Great paint rack! Is that a commercial product?
Have you ever dunked Hallmark Models in lacquer thinner and it ate the plastic wheel insulators?
What is the liquid in the tube in the hydrostatic cleaner?
If you are referring to the Ultrasonic Cleaner, it contains Lacquer Thinner
@@MondayMorningExpress What are the safety concerns surrounding putting a flammable fluid like lacquer thinner in an ultrasonic cleaner? Is there one? Why utilize the separate beaker in what I assume is water?
Great video, about the oven. Is that a mail box?
Yes it is!
Pops knows alot but could definitely work on spray techniques way to much paint and should be long even strokes instead of burst
Narrator seemed to be rushing Hal and made an atmosphere of impatience. Overall, awesome video.
What is Zilean? You said in many times when used with the paint.
Zylene. Great thinner for Scalecoat.
@@jimschneider5193 It is actually Xylene a.k.a. Xylol. Used with Floquil and Scalecoat paints. Hotter solvent than Lacquer or Acetone.
yes touch it up
I notice that you use another container inserted into your ultra sonic cleaner. Can you explain why this is used.
I believe the container on the base is the one attached to the ultrasonic cleaner, and probably just has water in it. The ultrasound waves can then be transmitted to the cleaning solution(thinners in this case) in the larger container on top.
I would strongly recommend that your work surface not have other parts on it while you're painting something else. Paint always goes everywhere.
never use a metal tool for masking
Let the old man talk. Stop interrupting.
to much tape and he puts the model right on the scissors bad job
I do not like his technique. Burst painting is the worst smooth long strokes are better
sorry to much overspray bad masking