@MartinSBrown-tp9ji That may be the case, but he had the fortitude to put out a video detailing one way to go about doing it. If you think your skill is higher, do the community a favor and show us how it's done, please. There are fewer and fewer painters every year - maybe its time for those who can to help teach those who have a desire to do.
I got my first brass diesel locomotive for Christmas this year. It's a Hallmark Fairbanks-Morse H12-44 and it came painted for the Central of Georgia (the road I model) livery. I've already taken it apart for servicing and adding LED headlight and red LED backup light. Got to take her apart one more time to add a couple of diodes to the LED's to keep them from flashing when the reverse current is applied. Have to wait for my diodes get here. I plan to buy more brass engines especially a few steamers. Nice to know how to paint 'em. Thanks for posting. Cheers from eastern TN
Just got the Harbor Freight blaster today in the mail. Got an Ebay Pennsylvania Q2 duplex locomotive special ready to blast. So gkad I found your video!
Great video. Finally started blasting. I'm blasting at 60 psi and I'm not getting nearly the results you did! The Harbor hose did not fit my compressor so I used the one that came with my compressor. The nozzle hole in the sprayer is so tiny that I get about a 1/8 inch blast pattern. Took me 25 minutes to do one side of my Q2! Strange. I'll experiment since this is my first time using this equipment.
I've got a few engines (Mantua & Tyco) that have open frame (Pittman) motors in them. I never change out the motors as the Pittman motors are just fine. What I do to improve them is change out the magnets to neodymium (rare earth) magnets and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and now they will "creep" around the tracks just like you guys' DCC step 1 speed. I only do DC as I hate the sound of HO DCC sound. It sounds way too tinny. O gauge DCC sound is much better. I guess the speakers are just so small in HO DCC. Cheers from eastern TN
just barely got into ho and n scale trains this week. im over here going nuts. i have about 13 engines and 50 cars and tons of track and town stuff already. bridges, log dumper etc etc. :p
Great series and thank you! Im learning to paint brass as well, I have a hard time stripping painted OMI models I was wondering if you recommend the air-eraser with the same particulate for a painted model? Peace!
I find it easier to wire wheel mine (ultra fine), it buff's it up so shiny that it creates a very, very strong bond. I then acid etch prime with a bit of heat. I find that model grade primer's don't stay on the model for very long.
Helmikins, have you ever tried any other blast media, or other grit numbers? I've heard of people using pumice as it's a bit easier on the brass surface.
Don't ever take an engine apart this far. Your chance of ever getting it back together with out any problems is a far trip to hell. If you do this,, good luck. Ask me how long it took to get it ruining again.
By any chance do you know if painting a brass loco prevents it from being conductive? I have an issue with my lead trucks touching the locomotive and shorting out the engine.
The lead truck can wear through the paint and short it out. I put a thin piece of styrene, .010, over where the wheels could touch. I also do this on the bottom of the cow catcher.
Not a must but does help with adhesion. Just make sure that it is de-greased well and if possible use scale coat, it sticks the best to bare metal. I have been using it on all my bare brass models now.
Primer coats should be a very light coat. This guy put it on to heavy. Don't use this man's instructions for anything. HE IS NO PRO!
Who said he was?
can you do any better?
@@Reading_Modeler Yes, my models won a national N.M.R.A. contest Twice in the 1980's
@@MartinSBrown-tp9ji
The 1880s or 1980s?
@MartinSBrown-tp9ji That may be the case, but he had the fortitude to put out a video detailing one way to go about doing it. If you think your skill is higher, do the community a favor and show us how it's done, please. There are fewer and fewer painters every year - maybe its time for those who can to help teach those who have a desire to do.
I got my first brass diesel locomotive for Christmas this year. It's a Hallmark Fairbanks-Morse H12-44 and it came painted for the Central of Georgia (the road I model) livery. I've already taken it apart for servicing and adding LED headlight and red LED backup light. Got to take her apart one more time to add a couple of diodes to the LED's to keep them from flashing when the reverse current is applied. Have to wait for my diodes get here. I plan to buy more brass engines especially a few steamers. Nice to know how to paint 'em. Thanks for posting. Cheers from eastern TN
Most informative video! Thanks for sharing!
wow, very nice work. you put a lot into it and its looking great
This gives me hope. Working on a PFM Union Pacific 2-8-0. Thanks again for the inspiration
Can’t believe he did not take the trucks off and take them apart
Just got the Harbor Freight blaster today in the mail. Got an Ebay Pennsylvania Q2 duplex locomotive special ready to blast. So gkad I found your video!
Great video. Finally started blasting. I'm blasting at 60 psi and I'm not getting nearly the results you did! The Harbor hose did not fit my compressor so I used the one that came with my compressor. The nozzle hole in the sprayer is so tiny that I get about a 1/8 inch blast pattern. Took me 25 minutes to do one side of my Q2! Strange. I'll experiment since this is my first time using this equipment.
Put Blue Tack or equivalent on the screwdriver tip. It keeps the screw in place and is really helpful.
I've got a few engines (Mantua & Tyco) that have open frame (Pittman) motors in them. I never change out the motors as the Pittman motors are just fine. What I do to improve them is change out the magnets to neodymium (rare earth) magnets and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and now they will "creep" around the tracks just like you guys' DCC step 1 speed. I only do DC as I hate the sound of HO DCC sound. It sounds way too tinny. O gauge DCC sound is much better. I guess the speakers are just so small in HO DCC. Cheers from eastern TN
just barely got into ho and n scale trains this week. im over here going nuts. i have about 13 engines and 50 cars and tons of track and town stuff already. bridges, log dumper etc etc. :p
I found that taking a pics with my phone as I take it apart was really useful. Then you can see where/ what parts went.
Great series and thank you!
Im learning to paint brass as well, I have a hard time stripping painted OMI models I was wondering if you recommend the air-eraser with the same particulate for a painted model? Peace!
I find it easier to wire wheel mine (ultra fine), it buff's it up so shiny that it creates a very, very strong bond.
I then acid etch prime with a bit of heat. I find that model grade primer's don't stay on the model for very long.
You really should use a foam cradle to hold the steam engine in place while unscrewing the small brass parts from it. 👉04:35. 😉
My dad did watch repairs. He had lots of those tiny screws.
That would be my first guess as to where to get some small screws like that. Hopefully I don't loose any.
Helmikins, have you ever tried any other blast media, or other grit numbers? I've heard of people using pumice as it's a bit easier on the brass surface.
I'm sure any material that would spray out would work. Try it out in a piece of scrap brass before hand.
Don't ever take an engine apart this far. Your chance of ever getting it back together with out any problems is a far trip to hell. If you do this,, good luck. Ask me how long it took to get it ruining again.
Did this locomotive have a lacquer finish before you honed it? If so what did you use to strip the lacquer?
I think it did, but the media blasting removes the clear.
By any chance do you know if painting a brass loco prevents it from being conductive? I have an issue with my lead trucks touching the locomotive and shorting out the engine.
The lead truck can wear through the paint and short it out. I put a thin piece of styrene, .010, over where the wheels could touch. I also do this on the bottom of the cow catcher.
@@Helmikins Thank you for the info, appreciate it.
MrGassRight you can use Teflon sheet to insulate
What PSI are you running the eraser at?
Between 50-60 PSI if I remember correctly.
@@Helmikins thanks
Would the media blasting be necessary to abrade the surface if it didn't have any coating on it at all? Thanks.
It really helps with adhesion especially if you are not painting with scalecoat. It gives it a rough surface for the paint to adhere to.
@@Helmikins Thanks very much. The videos were good and I appreciate your helpful insights.
Is sand blasting a must or can a good cleaning suffice?
Not a must but does help with adhesion. Just make sure that it is de-greased well and if possible use scale coat, it sticks the best to bare metal. I have been using it on all my bare brass models now.
where did y get graphite color paint
Trucolor TCP-008 Graphite
Spray can primer? This will never be as accurate, thin, or proper as using an air brush. Goes on too heavy as Martin pointed out.
Made for vehicles.