Steven you have done a fine job of demonstrating just how difficult and a royal pain removing and replacing old baseboard covers can be. Easy slip-on Baseboarders® are the preferred modern solution and can be used on the existing back plate or in situations like this video shows where the copper and finned tube element are totally replaced. You'll be back to replace these covers in a few years once they start rusting.
any boiler/baseboard is good ,there are many good brands,i would see what your supply house has in stock .i hope it works out for you..... thanks for commenting@ watching frank
Steve: Try using split point self tapping screws instead of those drywall screws especially for that heavy gauge baseboard covers, drywall screws are hardened steel ,when then break off they are not easy to get out.+ The split point come in both pan head and hex head. Works great on smoke pipe or duct work too !!!
thanks diesal for commenting well this guy has been a good customer for years .he is just cheap lol i have just been straight out with work .so i don t have much time .trying to please everyone is a challange .
lol mega i though i would leave that toilet story it there ,it was a handy man telling me that story that was working in that apartment .thanks for watching many fall/winter videos to come stay tuned
Steve, help! I followed your directions and manage to drain the zone (Zone 2 of 4 zones) and then build up the baseboard piping to get my baseboard above the proposed new subfloor height. I worked slowly and carefully and with your great videos managed to not only break down desolder a rather oddly installed baseboard system (the supply and return pipes were embedded in the wood and drywall!) but to also build up and install new piping with a "Vent 90" as per your recommendation. Great NO LEAKS! on 8 separate pipe joints. I used your vent 90 to let off air out of zone 2. Now the bad part. I went back to the boiler and put everything back on. I had hot water, etc. I go to use the shower and at first there was hot water, then after a minute or two it goes cold. I am stumped. I hit the reset button and again had hot water in the house so I though that might have been the problem. Wrong b/c I had the same thing this morning that is no hot water in the zone 4 shower. I went downstairs and pushed the Zone 4 valve to manual open position and presto! Hot shower! Now the zone 4 valve seems stuck in open! Any thoughts? What i have done wrong? I think I went off track when turned the system back on. Why would zone 4 be effected when I worked on Zone 2. I didn't purge air from the system except at the vent 90 you had me install. That worked great. Now what?
Okay, I am a sparky not a plumber, but some visegrips will make a good heat sink so you don't overheat the baseboard heater. Super thanks for the video! Dad taught us how to sweat solder copper by age 12, God rest his soul. I was wondering if I needed silver solder and a two gas torch, but I guess not! Good deal, I will have those basement units plumbed myself! Bleeder valves, Taco control valves, a new zone, a T stat and we shall see what happens next! NICE WORK!
the landload had purcharsed the baseboard replacements then called me to replace them ...as far a rusting that won't happen, its not wet or damp in the house in the house (only place that gets rusty is by a toilet) were men piss on covers ....thats what i have found .
do you think I could just follow your steps in removing our baseboard heaters? we've switched over to central air and they're just taking up space and looking their age. it's been three years since switching over so i'm assuming all the water is gone from them and thought i could recycle whatever we remove? i haven't even thought about problem solving the pipe going through the wood floors and how i'm going to cap that. uuuggh, do i have to go into the crawl space?
Nicely done! That was some tight-spot soldering there! You're a master with that angle grinder, too! I have never seen a system like this but, we don't really have any radiant heating out here on the west coast. I'm sure it is very commonplace most everywhere else, though! Great video
hey steven, i live in a basement apt. and no heating i have to use electric heaters but the landloard has given me the opertunity to install a baseboard water heater at her expense do to her electric bill being to high and i came across your video while searching for a good brand. would u recomand a slant fin baseboard heater for a basement? its a nice size apartment id say about 70 square feet, your advice would be much appreciated
I see you have the baseboard almost right up against the wall on the right side. How do you install the end caps when there is hardly any space to slide them in from the side? I have the Slantfin Fine line 30 and I am going to install them tomorrow.
Do you have any videos on the baseboards itself around the radiator like the sheet metal style that's behind that radiator having trouble getting one installed maybe I don't have all the parts that I need though do you have any videos
Steven your a good guy to do that. I live with this type of heating system in the place I rent, I've always had forced air I don't know if I could go back to forced air for heat it's so nice and even. But I'd just have my central air seperate. Very neat hope to see your winter time videos they are very good now!!! PS loved the toilet story ROL... Take care Steven. :)
Great video for sharing detail. Our house has older baseboard which is closely identical to the forms shown. Problem is, in 1965 when the house was built, they nailed the forms to the wall and now they are pulling out leaving a gap on the wall--ugly. I fixed one by removing the nails and plates and sliding the backboard piece out along a long wall to repaint it (Not disturbing the tubing/fins). The others, unfortunately, cannot be done this way. Other owners painted the metal with latex paint which is ugly as well. They will have to be stripped and spray painted with metal paint. Looks like the only way to remove the others is to cut the fin tubing out--a lot of work as you show!! I love the hot water heat!! Yeah, ya gotta use screws to keep these on the wall!!!
Just curious, why do you wipe down your joints right after you solder them? Sure it gives a clean look, but logically it makes no sense. I always leave that solder on there, including the drop on the bottom. This leaves a nice shoulder on the joint for extra strength. More material means more strength. Of course after the joint has cooled to room temp. you clean with warm water and a rag to remove the acid paste.
Walter's Playground whats on the out side is just for looks and yes i whip of every joint .because i do not want to be known as a hack that leaves grapes hanging of solder piping,,, no thanks i will whip every solder joint i do .it looks so much better and neater.i try to do good quilty work .and take pride in what i do and leave out there ,its like a trophy it will be there forever .till the next guy comes along
ok Steve i went and got the zone valve (honeywell ) 8043e1012 unstuck cause I was too stupid to know how to do it at first. Basically press to the right and hold it for a second and it goes back to auto. Anyway it seems like i might have air in the system. The pressure valve shows good presure around 12 and the temp indicates around 155 so that looks good. Maybe I need to purge air in each zone? I have valves for each zone or do I just hook the hose up at the bottom and turn everything on at the zone valves and ball valves? Sorry for bothering you about this but I am learning. PS you saved me prolly 750 bucks. As an aside the trouble zone 4 definitely had air in it cause I could hear it banging when I opened the zone valve on 4 and then I opened that purge valve and air came out. Thanks
Great video, thanks! Can you stack copper fin baseboard pipes and build a custom cover? For example, run, say, three or 4 of those on top of one another, with a piece of sheet metal against the wall, a few support arms to hold them up sturdy, and then a wood casing with vents?
they make high output base board or double stack baseboard or you can put a wall unit in if you need more heat also they have a kick base heater that goes under a cabenit also,you can do alot with hydronic heating
Thanks for the info, but could you build one even bigger, say, a quadruple stack or quintuple stack? As an alternative to those you mentioned. It seems like it would be cheaper.
WILSON! i guess you could but the cabinet would have to be built properly or the convector would not operate properly follow the design of the baseboard ....cold air comes in the bottom then flows up and out top
Awesome, many thanks. If I build a cover with sheet metal backing, and a metal grill in front, opening at the bottom, and at the top, I think I should be pretty good. I'm trying to figure out how big it should be for the space I'm trying to heat.
WILSON! if it was me i would just put in something designed for that size area unless you want to try to design your own it might not work so well i never tryed it with 3 stacks i am not sure how the air flow will be and if you will get to much more heat out of it i never tryed 3 stack i know they make a 2 stack that can be orded as needed not to poperler here never seen one installed in 30 years .
what the best baseboard heater or radiator heater. I ask there a house Im going to flip it have the tall radiator heater. i like to remover them to install wood flooring.
BTW This video was great I just wish it was a start to finish type thing cause this part really showed me to do the replacement or change part. Its really the draining and refill part that has me foxed.
Steve I am putting a subfloor that will raise the total floor level about 6 inches. My problem. I have to raise my baseboard radiator copper fin just like you have here. I assume I have to drain the whole? system or just the zone? Then can I someone how add pipe height and reattach baseboard at the new higher height. I really wish there was a video showing how to 1. Drain the system. 2. Raise the height. 3. Refill the system. Any suggestions would help thanks.
+1800NoFault i have many videos on filling and purging systems look up my play lists.you can add coupling and raise up the baseboard but i would put a vent 90 or it will build pressure and blow out the solder.
Oh thanks yes the fitting that the last guy, the "professional" who charged me $950 plus parts to install the baseboard the first time should have installed. There are no vents anywhere on the work he did. Thank you Steve.
Steve I think I fixed zone 4 no hot water in shower. Basically I isolated zone 4 and purged it BUT I also opened up the street regulator and really pushed the water through the system. Boom a ton of air came out. I checked the shower and it is really running hot now. Maybe I am good. I will let you know. Thanks for your great vids. I am the only one who finds this stuff cool?
Steven you have done a fine job of demonstrating just how difficult and a royal pain removing and replacing old baseboard covers can be. Easy slip-on Baseboarders® are the preferred modern solution and can be used on the existing back plate or in situations like this video shows where the copper and finned tube element are totally replaced. You'll be back to replace these covers in a few years once they start rusting.
any boiler/baseboard is good ,there are many good brands,i would see what your supply house has in stock .i hope it works out for you..... thanks for commenting@ watching frank
Steve: Try using split point self tapping screws instead of those drywall screws especially for that heavy gauge baseboard covers, drywall screws are hardened steel ,when then break off they are not easy to get out.+ The split point come in both pan head and hex head. Works great on smoke pipe or duct work too !!!
Thanks for posting these - really helpful to see these jobs start to finish and pick up on tips for dealing with unexpected things.
Jack Ludden thanks for watching
help from damaging the floor also thanks for watching rob
thanks diesal for commenting well this guy has been a good customer for years .he is just cheap lol i have just been straight out with work .so i don t have much time .trying to please everyone is a challange .
lol mega i though i would leave that toilet story it there ,it was a handy man telling me that story that was working in that apartment .thanks for watching many fall/winter videos to come stay tuned
Enjoying all of your videos Steve. Always nice watching a true craftsman.
Nicholas CeeA thanks for the nice comment
i don t know how to make them ...i might look into it though .. thanks for commenting steve
most of our heat is baseboard some hot air ,,, thanks for watching bones
Nice job, just curious would you use PEX with sharkbites as a option for the install? thanks.
well the customer needed it done so people could move it .. thanks for watching ray many heating videos to come
So....to replace these types of heaters....this is what I have.....you only have to shut the hot water off to replace it?
Steve, help! I followed your directions and manage to drain the zone (Zone 2 of 4 zones) and then build up the baseboard piping to get my baseboard above the proposed new subfloor height. I worked slowly and carefully and with your great videos managed to not only break down desolder a rather oddly installed baseboard system (the supply and return pipes were embedded in the wood and drywall!) but to also build up and install new piping with a "Vent 90" as per your recommendation. Great NO LEAKS! on 8 separate pipe joints. I used your vent 90 to let off air out of zone 2. Now the bad part. I went back to the boiler and put everything back on. I had hot water, etc. I go to use the shower and at first there was hot water, then after a minute or two it goes cold. I am stumped. I hit the reset button and again had hot water in the house so I though that might have been the problem. Wrong b/c I had the same thing this morning that is no hot water in the zone 4 shower. I went downstairs and pushed the Zone 4 valve to manual open position and presto! Hot shower! Now the zone 4 valve seems stuck in open! Any thoughts? What i have done wrong? I think I went off track when turned the system back on. Why would zone 4 be effected when I worked on Zone 2. I didn't purge air from the system except at the vent 90 you had me install. That worked great. Now what?
thanks ralph,, copper fin baseboard is big up here in the north east
I need to remove a baseboard not replace. Do you have a video for that?
Are you in NJ?
Okay, I am a sparky not a plumber, but some visegrips will make a good heat sink so you don't overheat the baseboard heater. Super thanks for the video! Dad taught us how to sweat solder copper by age 12, God rest his soul. I was wondering if I needed silver solder and a two gas torch, but I guess not! Good deal, I will have those basement units plumbed myself! Bleeder valves, Taco control valves, a new zone, a T stat and we shall see what happens next! NICE WORK!
Seth B thanks for watching
+Seth B Vice grips as a heat sink, good tip!
the landload had purcharsed the baseboard replacements then called me to replace them ...as far a rusting that won't happen, its not wet or damp in the house in the house (only place that gets rusty is by a toilet) were men piss on covers ....thats what i have found .
do you think I could just follow your steps in removing our baseboard heaters? we've switched over to central air and they're just taking up space and looking their age. it's been three years since switching over so i'm assuming all the water is gone from them and thought i could recycle whatever we remove? i haven't even thought about problem solving the pipe going through the wood floors and how i'm going to cap that. uuuggh, do i have to go into the crawl space?
Did you do this? We are in the same boat....old unused hot water baseboard heaters....want to take them out but no idea what to do
Blue Woods Design Alexa Doebler If there is no water in the system just cut the pipes below the floor in the basement / crawlspace.
Nicely done! That was some tight-spot soldering there! You're a master with that angle grinder, too! I have never seen a system like this but, we don't really have any radiant heating out here on the west coast. I'm sure it is very commonplace most everywhere else, though! Great video
Is there a benefit to replacing the finned tubing itself with new tubing? Does the heat dissipation performance degrade over time? Thanks.
Your new rad looks like the one recently installed in my house. Question: where is the bleed valve!?
Hi. How do you drain the water from the system in order to repair a pinhole leak?
hey steven, i live in a basement apt. and no heating i have to use electric heaters but the landloard has given me the opertunity to install a baseboard water heater at her expense do to her electric bill being to high and i came across your video while searching for a good brand. would u recomand a slant fin baseboard heater for a basement? its a nice size apartment id say about 70 square feet, your advice would be much appreciated
really thats cool thanks for watching paltech
great work steven what is the best baseboard heater for the most b t u heat per foot
How do you get the water going after this ? Does the furnace fill itself automatically or do you need to bleed the pipes of air .
I see you have the baseboard almost right up against the wall on the right side. How do you install the end caps when there is hardly any space to slide them in from the side? I have the Slantfin Fine line 30 and I am going to install them tomorrow.
you need to buy,,,, end caps there called ,,,wall end's
Do you have any videos on the baseboards itself around the radiator like the sheet metal style that's behind that radiator having trouble getting one installed maybe I don't have all the parts that I need though do you have any videos
Steven your a good guy to do that. I live with this type of heating system in the place I rent, I've always had forced air I don't know if I could go back to forced air for heat it's so nice and even. But I'd just have my central air seperate. Very neat hope to see your winter time videos they are very good now!!! PS loved the toilet story ROL... Take care Steven. :)
Great video for sharing detail. Our house has older baseboard which is closely identical to the forms shown. Problem is, in 1965 when the house was built, they nailed the forms to the wall and now they are pulling out leaving a gap on the wall--ugly. I fixed one by removing the nails and plates and sliding the backboard piece out along a long wall to repaint it (Not disturbing the tubing/fins). The others, unfortunately, cannot be done this way. Other owners painted the metal with latex paint which is ugly as well. They will have to be stripped and spray painted with metal paint. Looks like the only way to remove the others is to cut the fin tubing out--a lot of work as you show!! I love the hot water heat!! Yeah, ya gotta use screws to keep these on the wall!!!
DOLRED thanks for commenting @ watching
Just curious, why do you wipe down your joints right after you solder them?
Sure it gives a clean look, but logically it makes no sense.
I always leave that solder on there, including the drop on the bottom. This leaves a nice shoulder on the joint for extra strength. More material means more strength.
Of course after the joint has cooled to room temp. you clean with warm water and a rag to remove the acid paste.
Walter's Playground whats on the out side is just for looks and yes i whip of every joint .because i do not want to be known as a hack that leaves grapes hanging of solder piping,,, no thanks i will whip every solder joint i do .it looks so much better and neater.i try to do good quilty work .and take pride in what i do and leave out there ,its like a trophy it will be there forever .till the next guy comes along
Glad to see you back. Been real busy with the heat here. Nice job.
Nice work Steven!
I don't mind installing customers own equipment so long as they understand they have to warranty it themselves!
ok Steve i went and got the zone valve (honeywell ) 8043e1012 unstuck cause I was too stupid to know how to do it at first. Basically press to the right and hold it for a second and it goes back to auto. Anyway it seems like i might have air in the system. The pressure valve shows good presure around 12 and the temp indicates around 155 so that looks good. Maybe I need to purge air in each zone? I have valves for each zone or do I just hook the hose up at the bottom and turn everything on at the zone valves and ball valves? Sorry for bothering you about this but I am learning. PS you saved me prolly 750 bucks. As an aside the trouble zone 4 definitely had air in it cause I could hear it banging when I opened the zone valve on 4 and then I opened that purge valve and air came out. Thanks
When I see a Benny’s I know it’s a fellow RIer I’m supporting. Rip Benny’s!
Great video, thanks! Can you stack copper fin baseboard pipes and build a custom cover? For example, run, say, three or 4 of those on top of one another, with a piece of sheet metal against the wall, a few support arms to hold them up sturdy, and then a wood casing with vents?
they make high output base board or double stack baseboard or you can put a wall unit in if you need more heat also they have a kick base heater that goes under a cabenit also,you can do alot with hydronic heating
Thanks for the info, but could you build one even bigger, say, a quadruple stack or quintuple stack? As an alternative to those you mentioned. It seems like it would be cheaper.
WILSON! i guess you could but the cabinet would have to be built properly or the convector would not operate properly follow the design of the baseboard ....cold air comes in the bottom then flows up and out top
Awesome, many thanks. If I build a cover with sheet metal backing, and a metal grill in front, opening at the bottom, and at the top, I think I should be pretty good. I'm trying to figure out how big it should be for the space I'm trying to heat.
WILSON! if it was me i would just put in something designed for that size area unless you want to try to design your own it might not work so well i never tryed it with 3 stacks i am not sure how the air flow will be and if you will get to much more heat out of it i never tryed 3 stack i know they make a 2 stack that can be orded as needed not to poperler here never seen one installed in 30 years .
Great job Steven!!!!! You look like you've done that a time or two.
what the best baseboard heater or radiator heater. I ask there a house Im going to flip it have the tall radiator heater. i like to remover them to install wood flooring.
BTW This video was great I just wish it was a start to finish type thing cause this part really showed me to do the replacement or change part. Its really the draining and refill part that has me foxed.
1800NoFault did you ever find a good resource on how to drain and refill?
@@bobvilla2508 Not really it was sort of trial and error and each system is a little different but I eventually figured it out.
Steve I am putting a subfloor that will raise the total floor level about 6 inches. My problem. I have to raise my baseboard radiator copper fin just like you have here. I assume I have to drain the whole? system or just the zone? Then can I someone how add pipe height and reattach baseboard at the new higher height. I really wish there was a video showing how to 1. Drain the system. 2. Raise the height. 3. Refill the system.
Any suggestions would help thanks.
+1800NoFault i have many videos on filling and purging systems look up my play lists.you can add coupling and raise up the baseboard but i would put a vent 90 or it will build pressure and blow out the solder.
+steven lavimoniere Thank you so much. I thought there might be a problem with raising the height. Ok great, uh what the heck is a vent 90?
amzn.to/27QrRFO
Oh thanks yes the fitting that the last guy, the "professional" who charged me $950 plus parts to install the baseboard the first time should have installed. There are no vents anywhere on the work he did. Thank you Steve.
thanks! I learned alot by watching your video. great job!
Steve I think I fixed zone 4 no hot water in shower. Basically I isolated zone 4 and purged it BUT I also opened up the street regulator and really pushed the water through the system. Boom a ton of air came out. I checked the shower and it is really running hot now. Maybe I am good. I will let you know. Thanks for your great vids. I am the only one who finds this stuff cool?
glad you could fix it
Thanks. Been looking for video on that for a while now!!
I bought a standard length 4ft radiator. How can I trim it from 48in to 40in without messing up the cover? Would love to see a video on how it's done.
use a 4 " angle grinder with a cut off wheel it will cut right thru it like butter
steven lavimoniere That is great. Thanks for the awesome advice and video!
Hey Steven tell me what you want I'll get you fixed up
thanks man
You should create a signature intro for your videos just like T&N Services, talyn875, FritzHVAC, etc. Nice job Steve!
worst drill for the job
Great job steven!!!!!!!
thanks wink
Ok, I liked the video and learned something but my God, put the phone down when you're driving. You were in the middle of the road swaying all over!
i though i would leave the toilet story in the video lol it was some mantanance guy trying to impress me with his plumbing skills lol
Why you hate me :( btw i dont even know what is copperfin but its my name :D
+CopperFIN i do not hate anyone
nice, man =)
+Tim Spriggs okay