I keep commenting as I watch. One thing you have to remember when mounting your brackets is to make you you avoid the “knuckles” on the back of the square bar.
Another thing with the wind sensor is to install it on the same side as your motor. It makes it easier for the transmitter/receiver to work. Make sure you change your batteries at least once every year and check the wind sensor for spiders and battery acid which can make it rust inside. With your cord, you can run it behind the square bar and tie it up with zip ties. You can hide it behind your siding or even in the channel of the trim around the window or door. You can also cut the wire down if there’s way too much excess. Those wires from somfy are easy to put connectors back on.
One last thing.. They have lights you can buy from Sunsetter or Sunesta. They’re very nice and can be put on timers with your awning’s remote. If that’s out of your price range then Lowe’s sells some LED strips that are cheaper and some are even solar. They can also change colors which can help with the pesky bugs/insects. I wouldn’t suggest having it out in the rain unless yours is specifically made for it (which your’s isn’t). A little rain won’t hurt it though. As far as the wind sensor. They usually work, but it only takes one big gust to rip those lags out. I know you don’t want legs, but you can drill a lil i-hook in the middle of the front bar then use a line to connect it to the flooring you have underneath. This is just as a backup for windy locations and the peace of mind going further than the wind sensor to protect your investments, friends and family. The downside is choosing to tie it down or use the wind sensor. I sell the wind sensors, but I let them know (for the protection of my family) the wind sensors don’t always work and it only takes one gust to pick it up and slam it down. The arms are under extreme tension and can kill people if they come loose. If you ever have to swap a motor, you better unroll the whole thing or securely tie the arms together. When it ships to you, I’m sure you saw the plastic that was wrapped around them and you had to cut off. Best of luck! I’m here if you ever have any questions too.
I never have it extended when there is wind. The wind sensors work as I test it from time to time by shaking the end of the awning. It always retracts but I don't rely on it. Overall, I am happy with the awning and it works great for our needs. I appreciate the tips on the motor and tie. I will reach out if I ever have to venture down that path. Thanks.
@@randyj7476 Most of us don’t have it out in the wind, but the gusts do come of of nowhere sometimes. I have customers every year who say they just went inside to grab the phone or something quick and it happens. I change batteries for our customers twice a year (I do close-ins for the winter) and have to check the wind sensors to make sure they stayed programmed. So just like you said, it looks for 3-4 bounces within 12-15 seconds before it will send itself in. Again, most people are careful but I do have to fix a few awnings/lags a year. I’m glad you’re happy with it. The sun feels hotter and hotter every year.
Hi Randy!!! Your video is great. I know it's a couple of years old but I just decided to install an awning (from AwnTech). My question is, what are the measurements of the blocks you created to attach the brackets? Where they all the same size or each one was a bit different? Also, in your video you show the first block installed and it looks like the bottom of it is sticking down about 1/2 inch. Is that correct or did you have to go back and make it line up with the fascia? Thank you!
The blocks were the same width as the brackets. They did hang down a bit. but that was so that I could make contact with the siding at the point where the siding actually touches the wall. I didn't want the siding to crush. Your house will probably be different so I would just make them the size you need to get the same effect. The wood blocks I made do extend below the fascia board but that is because the vinyl soffit sticks down that much. I needed to make sure that the board was touching the backside of the soffit so when I bolted the bracket to it the soffit would not be pulled up but instead would remain exactly in the same position. I hope my explanation makes sense and doesn't add confusion. Good luck with your install.
Great video, explains a lot. I’m about to replace a 12 foot wide manual sunsetter with a 13 foot wide motorized sunsetter. I’m wondering if it “dips” more than the manual, since support arms are underneath and not on each side like the manual. Currently ours is mounted on the house 7.5 feet high, and when it’s fully open the other end barely grazes my head (I’m 5’ 10”) I’m just a little concerned based on the videos I’ve seen that the motorized version dips more, so I’d be hurting my head constantly. What do you think?
You can adjust the pitch so that it is higher of lower at the end when it is extended. It doesn't dip or sag in the middle. The arms that extend are pretty rigid and will keep the awning in a straight line. Like I said, you can adjust/change the pitch so that the outer end of the awning can be a little higher if it is too low when it is fully extended.
Randy J Thanks, I’ll be placing our order today! We have an old manual sunsetter and my wife can’t raise or lower it, it’s too hard, and I have a health condition that unfortunately over time will make it hard for me to do. Plus the arms extending out always are in the way.
There is a way to change the pitch although I haven't done that yet but I was considering changing the pitch of mine so that when it is fully extended the outer edge would be about 4 " higher. It sounds like you just need to change the pitch on one side so that the outer bar is level. The installation manual has the pitch change procedure. The manual link is here: support.sunsetter.com/SunSetterData/SUNSETTER_TECHNICAL_SUPPORT/1c_Motorized_Motorized_XL__VISTA_Awnings_and%20_Accessories/1_Awning_Owner%E2%80%99s_Manual_and_Installation_Instructions/01c.%20SunSetter%20PRO%20%20Installation%20-%202017.pdf Here is the extract from the manual that describes the pitch change procedure: Tools Needed: 6mm Allen wrench (included with Awning), large adjustable wrench, step ladder(s), and a helper(s). Follow these instructions to change the pitch or angle (see Figure 26 on Page 24) of your Awning. Note: A Visual Guide is available on the Installation DVD and on the Owner’s Corner. 1. Close the Awning. 2. Have your helper slightly lift the Front Bar close to the Front Bar Connector, to remove pressure on the Arm Clamp. 3. Remove the plastic cover from the Arm Clamp. Remove by hand, no tools required. See Figure 27 Insert A. 4. Using an adjustable wrench, tighten the large Lock Nut in the Arm Clamp for safety. See Figure 27 insert B on Page 24. 5. Release the Front Bar and stand to the side of the Awning. 6. Open the Awning. 7. Loosen the large Lock Nut in the Arm Clamp, not more than one quarter turn. See Figure 27 Insert B. Note: Adjust each Lateral Arm, one at a time, until both are at the desired height and the Front Bar is level. Note: Depending on the Awning size and model, the weight of the Front Bar varies (Example: Wider Awnings will have heavier Front Bars). This will impact how high you can raise the Front Bar, using the adjustment capabilities of the Arm Clamps. See Figure 27, Insert B for the Pitch Channel Range. If you reach the maximum adjustment and are still not happy with the height of the Front Bar, you can shim the Wall Brackets upward to raise the Front Bar further. Make sure that all Wall Brackets are shimmed evenly. I hope this helps and good luck with your project.
You said there’s no structure above the vinyl. There should be rafters every 16”, 20” or 24” running perpendicular to your gutter. Those brackets you have can be used for Wall Mounting or Sulfite Mounting. What I would’ve recommended was roof mounting it. It’s is a lot easier to mount it that way and it also gives you more headroom and a better pitch (angle). Your awning is pretty low and I’m wondering if they gave you over/under arms or not. I’m only a minute in. I guess I should’ve watched it all first, huh?
Yeah I ended up making something to give it structure behind the vinyl. It's been working great. I am able to change the pitch of the awning but you are right it is a little low for real tall people only at the end when fully extended. I like it under the soffit because it is protected from the elements when retracted.
@@randyj7476 A lot of people will go the route you chose to. I does keep it cleaner and helps with fading for the fabric. We do sell aluminum awning hoods that you can cover the awning no matter where you mount it. They match the color of the frame. We also have vinyl covers you can tie on with bungees for the winter. Oh, make sure to take your wind sensor inside for the winter unless you use the awning in the winter. And you mentioned looking into hiding the cord. Until then another thing you can do is wrap it around your outlet housing a few times for the excess. Some people wait on that part of the install so we just run it down the closest straight channel (window/door frame) and wrap the rest of it around the outlet. If you put it through your siding, use the small end of your power cable. It should unscrew from itself about a foot away from the motor. That way you don’t have a hole 🕳 the size of your plug 🔌. You seem smart enough to figure that out on your own, but I’ve had a few people surprise me. Again, best of luck!
I am in the process of installing the SunSetter awning 18 feet wide and discovered that I had no support. I am thinking of installing (8) 4 X 4 X 20 " support and attach them to a slide in brackets from each side. On one side I will attach to the main structure of my house and the other one to the end beam by the soffit, which is 2 X 6. Do you think that would be strong enough to hold it???
I am having difficulty envisioning the support and attachments that you described so I can't really say. One thing to keep in mind is that the further out the awning is opened the more stress will be on your supports. To illustrate my point, take a 5 lb weight and hold it straight out with your hand. It is pretty easy to do. Now take that same 5 lb weight and put it at the end of a 6' pole and then try to hold it straight out by holding the opposite end of the pole. You'll get the idea. Good luck with your project.
I haven't had to do that since mine came with a motor installed as a package. I'm assuming that yours is a manual and only has a crank. Sorry, I don't know anything about that style or what it would take to add a motor.
Thanks Richard. The plastic block can be found From any supplier that deals with raw stock. I like McMaster-Carr because I can usually order by 6 PM and get it the next day. www.mcmaster.com/plastic-bars I believe that I used white UHMW. There are a lot of different suppliers online if you search for "plastic bar". I even seen it on Amazon. I chose plastic because it is weatherproof and easy to work with. You can cut it with a saw just like wood and it is easy to drill through also. Good luck with your project and I'm glad you liked the video.
Not extra work. The awning is hung from under the soffit at a certain distance from the wall. I wanted to make sure that the stress to the the mounts under the soffit were reduced since I had to build up that area. It would be difficult to find a wall bracket that fit in the area between the awning bracket and the wall. Additionally, I didn't want to flatten the siding by having something flat against it so I had to create something that took all that into consideration. It was relatively quick and simple and won't rot or rust either. That's a win in my book. Anyway, I had fun doing it and solving the challenge myself. :)
@@randyj7476 I use a 1.25 inch nylon spacer that I use a whole saw to remove siding so the spacer slides right into the hole I drilled... Then the siding doesn't get crushed and the awning sqare bar clears all of the other trims and things on the wall...
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
My favorite DIY videos are from a regular guy, using plain language and having fun doing it. You fit the bill. Subscribed.
Since my only option to install a awning since it's less than 8' 5" in height, this is what I was looking for...Thanks
I keep commenting as I watch. One thing you have to remember when mounting your brackets is to make you you avoid the “knuckles” on the back of the square bar.
I like your innovations on this project.
Thanks. It's been working great ever since.
Another thing with the wind sensor is to install it on the same side as your motor. It makes it easier for the transmitter/receiver to work.
Make sure you change your batteries at least once every year and check the wind sensor for spiders and battery acid which can make it rust inside.
With your cord, you can run it behind the square bar and tie it up with zip ties. You can hide it behind your siding or even in the channel of the trim around the window or door.
You can also cut the wire down if there’s way too much excess. Those wires from somfy are easy to put connectors back on.
One last thing.. They have lights you can buy from Sunsetter or Sunesta. They’re very nice and can be put on timers with your awning’s remote.
If that’s out of your price range then Lowe’s sells some LED strips that are cheaper and some are even solar. They can also change colors which can help with the pesky bugs/insects.
I wouldn’t suggest having it out in the rain unless yours is specifically made for it (which your’s isn’t). A little rain won’t hurt it though. As far as the wind sensor. They usually work, but it only takes one big gust to rip those lags out. I know you don’t want legs, but you can drill a lil i-hook in the middle of the front bar then use a line to connect it to the flooring you have underneath.
This is just as a backup for windy locations and the peace of mind going further than the wind sensor to protect your investments, friends and family.
The downside is choosing to tie it down or use the wind sensor. I sell the wind sensors, but I let them know (for the protection of my family) the wind sensors don’t always work and it only takes one gust to pick it up and slam it down. The arms are under extreme tension and can kill people if they come loose. If you ever have to swap a motor, you better unroll the whole thing or securely tie the arms together. When it ships to you, I’m sure you saw the plastic that was wrapped around them and you had to cut off.
Best of luck! I’m here if you ever have any questions too.
I never have it extended when there is wind. The wind sensors work as I test it from time to time by shaking the end of the awning. It always retracts but I don't rely on it. Overall, I am happy with the awning and it works great for our needs. I appreciate the tips on the motor and tie. I will reach out if I ever have to venture down that path. Thanks.
@@randyj7476 Most of us don’t have it out in the wind, but the gusts do come of of nowhere sometimes. I have customers every year who say they just went inside to grab the phone or something quick and it happens.
I change batteries for our customers twice a year (I do close-ins for the winter) and have to check the wind sensors to make sure they stayed programmed. So just like you said, it looks for 3-4 bounces within 12-15 seconds before it will send itself in.
Again, most people are careful but I do have to fix a few awnings/lags a year. I’m glad you’re happy with it. The sun feels hotter and hotter every year.
Hi Randy!!! Your video is great. I know it's a couple of years old but I just decided to install an awning (from AwnTech). My question is, what are the measurements of the blocks you created to attach the brackets? Where they all the same size or each one was a bit different? Also, in your video you show the first block installed and it looks like the bottom of it is sticking down about 1/2 inch. Is that correct or did you have to go back and make it line up with the fascia? Thank you!
The blocks were the same width as the brackets. They did hang down a bit. but that was so that I could make contact with the siding at the point where the siding actually touches the wall. I didn't want the siding to crush. Your house will probably be different so I would just make them the size you need to get the same effect.
The wood blocks I made do extend below the fascia board but that is because the vinyl soffit sticks down that much. I needed to make sure that the board was touching the backside of the soffit so when I bolted the bracket to it the soffit would not be pulled up but instead would remain exactly in the same position.
I hope my explanation makes sense and doesn't add confusion. Good luck with your install.
@@randyj7476 Thank you!!! The info is great!!!!
Nice work on the support brackets reinforcements
Thanks
When you don’t have rafters in there, you can make your own usually with a 2”x8”, 2”x10” or 2”x12”.
Great video, explains a lot. I’m about to replace a 12 foot wide manual sunsetter with a 13 foot wide motorized sunsetter. I’m wondering if it “dips” more than the manual, since support arms are underneath and not on each side like the manual. Currently ours is mounted on the house 7.5 feet high, and when it’s fully open the other end barely grazes my head (I’m 5’ 10”) I’m just a little concerned based on the videos I’ve seen that the motorized version dips more, so I’d be hurting my head constantly. What do you think?
You can adjust the pitch so that it is higher of lower at the end when it is extended. It doesn't dip or sag in the middle. The arms that extend are pretty rigid and will keep the awning in a straight line. Like I said, you can adjust/change the pitch so that the outer end of the awning can be a little higher if it is too low when it is fully extended.
Randy J Thanks, I’ll be placing our order today! We have an old manual sunsetter and my wife can’t raise or lower it, it’s too hard, and I have a health condition that unfortunately over time will make it hard for me to do. Plus the arms extending out always are in the way.
Nice work...nice fittings
Genius Randy also it's a perfect color for your deck and siding. do you recall what the fabric name was that you picked?
Sorry but I don't recall and I can't find any of the paperwork from that purchase.
@@randyj7476 Hey thanks for the reply Randy no worries going down to the new place in Florida next week and we'll try and match yours Love it
@@saustinredsox I love our awning. It works great and keeps us out of the sun.
nice video, We have a motorized sunsetter but we are unable to pitch it straight. It is leaning on one side. Can you offer any advise??? Terry
There is a way to change the pitch although I haven't done that yet but I was considering changing the pitch of mine so that when it is fully extended the outer edge would be about 4 " higher. It sounds like you just need to change the pitch on one side so that the outer bar is level.
The installation manual has the pitch change procedure. The manual link is here:
support.sunsetter.com/SunSetterData/SUNSETTER_TECHNICAL_SUPPORT/1c_Motorized_Motorized_XL__VISTA_Awnings_and%20_Accessories/1_Awning_Owner%E2%80%99s_Manual_and_Installation_Instructions/01c.%20SunSetter%20PRO%20%20Installation%20-%202017.pdf
Here is the extract from the manual that describes the pitch change procedure:
Tools Needed: 6mm Allen wrench (included with Awning), large adjustable wrench, step ladder(s), and a helper(s).
Follow these instructions to change the pitch or angle (see Figure 26 on Page 24) of your Awning.
Note: A Visual Guide is available on the Installation DVD and on the Owner’s Corner.
1. Close the Awning.
2. Have your helper slightly lift the Front Bar close to the Front Bar Connector, to remove pressure on the Arm Clamp.
3. Remove the plastic cover from the Arm Clamp. Remove by hand, no tools required. See Figure 27 Insert A.
4. Using an adjustable wrench, tighten the large Lock Nut in the Arm Clamp for safety. See Figure 27 insert B on Page 24.
5. Release the Front Bar and stand to the side of the Awning.
6. Open the Awning.
7. Loosen the large Lock Nut in the Arm Clamp, not more than one quarter turn. See Figure 27 Insert B.
Note: Adjust each Lateral Arm, one at a time, until both are at the desired height and the Front Bar is level.
Note: Depending on the Awning size and model, the weight of the Front Bar varies (Example: Wider Awnings will have
heavier Front Bars). This will impact how high you can raise the Front Bar, using the adjustment capabilities of the Arm
Clamps. See Figure 27, Insert B for the Pitch Channel Range. If you reach the maximum adjustment and are still not
happy with the height of the Front Bar, you can shim the Wall Brackets upward to raise the Front Bar further. Make sure
that all Wall Brackets are shimmed evenly.
I hope this helps and good luck with your project.
@@randyj7476 thank you so much
You said there’s no structure above the vinyl. There should be rafters every 16”, 20” or 24” running perpendicular to your gutter.
Those brackets you have can be used for Wall Mounting or Sulfite Mounting.
What I would’ve recommended was roof mounting it. It’s is a lot easier to mount it that way and it also gives you more headroom and a better pitch (angle). Your awning is pretty low and I’m wondering if they gave you over/under arms or not. I’m only a minute in. I guess I should’ve watched it all first, huh?
Yeah I ended up making something to give it structure behind the vinyl. It's been working great. I am able to change the pitch of the awning but you are right it is a little low for real tall people only at the end when fully extended. I like it under the soffit because it is protected from the elements when retracted.
@@randyj7476 A lot of people will go the route you chose to. I does keep it cleaner and helps with fading for the fabric.
We do sell aluminum awning hoods that you can cover the awning no matter where you mount it. They match the color of the frame.
We also have vinyl covers you can tie on with bungees for the winter. Oh, make sure to take your wind sensor inside for the winter unless you use the awning in the winter.
And you mentioned looking into hiding the cord. Until then another thing you can do is wrap it around your outlet housing a few times for the excess. Some people wait on that part of the install so we just run it down the closest straight channel (window/door frame) and wrap the rest of it around the outlet.
If you put it through your siding, use the small end of your power cable. It should unscrew from itself about a foot away from the motor. That way you don’t have a hole 🕳 the size of your plug 🔌.
You seem smart enough to figure that out on your own, but I’ve had a few people surprise me.
Again, best of luck!
@@NickkaDUB Thanks
@@randyj7476 Anytime, brother.
Nice Delrin blocks. You could have saved yourself a lot of trouble and installed it on the roof.
I am in the process of installing the SunSetter awning 18 feet wide and discovered that I had no support. I am thinking of installing (8) 4 X 4 X 20 " support and attach them to a slide in brackets from each side. On one side I will attach to the main structure of my house and the other one to the end beam by the soffit, which is 2 X 6. Do you think that would be strong enough to hold it???
I am having difficulty envisioning the support and attachments that you described so I can't really say. One thing to keep in mind is that the further out the awning is opened the more stress will be on your supports. To illustrate my point, take a 5 lb weight and hold it straight out with your hand. It is pretty easy to do. Now take that same 5 lb weight and put it at the end of a 6' pole and then try to hold it straight out by holding the opposite end of the pole. You'll get the idea. Good luck with your project.
How to install a motor to my sunsetted crank
I haven't had to do that since mine came with a motor installed as a package. I'm assuming that yours is a manual and only has a crank. Sorry, I don't know anything about that style or what it would take to add a motor.
Great video Randy and I like the idea of the plastic block to support the weight of the awning. Where can I find the plastic blocking?
Thanks Richard. The plastic block can be found From any supplier that deals with raw stock. I like McMaster-Carr because I can usually order by 6 PM and get it the next day. www.mcmaster.com/plastic-bars
I believe that I used white UHMW.
There are a lot of different suppliers online if you search for "plastic bar". I even seen it on Amazon.
I chose plastic because it is weatherproof and easy to work with. You can cut it with a saw just like wood and it is easy to drill through also. Good luck with your project and I'm glad you liked the video.
Why didn't you just get regular wall brackets??? Lots of extra work going on here..
Not extra work. The awning is hung from under the soffit at a certain distance from the wall. I wanted to make sure that the stress to the the mounts under the soffit were reduced since I had to build up that area. It would be difficult to find a wall bracket that fit in the area between the awning bracket and the wall. Additionally, I didn't want to flatten the siding by having something flat against it so I had to create something that took all that into consideration. It was relatively quick and simple and won't rot or rust either. That's a win in my book. Anyway, I had fun doing it and solving the challenge myself. :)
@@randyj7476 I use a 1.25 inch nylon spacer that I use a whole saw to remove siding so the spacer slides right into the hole I drilled... Then the siding doesn't get crushed and the awning sqare bar clears all of the other trims and things on the wall...
@@davidbrown1700 That certainly will prevent the siding from crushing and it probably would have worked for me too. Good tip.
Thanks, very useful
wow, you look like matt damon's half brother. anyone ever tell you that? :) thanks for the vid btw!
No one has ever told me that before. :)
How much
This is a 14' awning and it cost just under $2,200 from Costco.