To those of us who didn’t have the luxury of attending any of the “top art schools” this is a well presented primer allowing the uneducated an opportunity to learn the basics. I thank you for taking the time to start the uneducated on the road to painting. This was a wonderful video. 😊
I am in my first year of oil painting as a self taught artist and I have watched and saved countless videos but this video covered EVERYTHING! What an amazing teacher!! Thank you!! 👏👏👏 I wish I could purchase the handout.
I also watched this as a Ground Zero introduction to Oil Painting - was amazed at how much I discovered - almost adding to my anxiety of trying to learn this by myself without the benefit of being in a class
This is the best tutorial I've ever seen for oil painting students and I've seen possibly a hundred on youtube. My heart is bursting with "Thank You's!" I'm just now getting serious about using oils and I neeeeeeded ALL this valuable information. .... joyce
Not to cast disrespect to anyone with art videos. But this is the most thoroughly explained at a level even I can understand video on oils. Great job young lady 🎉
I like how you really pressed the issue of pigments. It is SOOOO important and honestly I hardly hear many artists talking about it. I don’t think enough people experiment with single pigments enough because it’s not often taught in intro type instruction. So I appreciate hearing you really drive the details of the paint itself and what is in it. I love oil painting and don’t do it enough. Thanks
I had the privilege of studying with Cindy MacMillan in workshops in Richmond. They were some of the best classes I’ve ever done. Thanks for posting this. I’m so glad the channel showed up in my suggestions list.
Excellent lecture to an Intro to painting class. I went to the Savannah College of Art and Design in the late 90s. Took Intro to Painting... I was HOPING that class was even 1% of this, instead we watched VHS demos of other painters copying other masters works from various movements and was told... now use what you learn and reproduce something that fits that movement. I hope their program has gotten better, but I switched majors after I realized how unstructured their painting program was. Took me many years of learning and trial and error to pick up what Julie lectured in the first 30 mins (this was before social media and TH-cam). Saved to watch again later.
SCAD got bigger and better since the early 90's. I went to CCA, Parsons, and a couple others and they all dance around instruction the 1st couple years. I guess to weed out the curious and then focus on the dedicated????
This is Amazing!!! Thank You Julie. This is much better than "Watch Me Paint" videos, or videos where an explanation of one or two concepts are drawn out into a 45 min. video just to rack up the AD views. I've learned more in this one video than I have reading multiple books or watching dozens of other videos. Looking forward to future videos like this one.
Very useful. There is such a variety of information and opinion on the internet that it is helpful to have a one-stop, reliable and comprehensive lecture on the basics for beginners. 😊
I graduated from a 6 years Art Academy with a bachelor degree, I never heard any of my instructors explaining oil colour this way and simplifying technique, elements, and tools the way Julie did. I now have a better understanding of oil painting and this short video improved my way of pre-thinking before any project, and advanced my technical skills by knowing even better what I am dealing with. Thank you for that and looking forward to another amazing video.
I watch this a few times this truly is the most articulated video on oil painting and what it’s about and how do use them I’ve ever seen thank you wonderful
Thank you for sharing such helpful information especially for a beginner oil artist like myself. You can try and learn the balance and ways of oils but unless you understand the substance you provided in this lecture you will never truly know how to work with oil paints and their mediums. Thank you again 🙏
2:32:10 describing my EXACT situation... I've been drawing me whole life, but I'm new to painting. I've done 4 paintings so far and have been banging my head against a wall wondering how people are packing so much detail into such small paintings, I'm realizing now I've been using waaayyy too much solvent/medium. Thank you for this video!
Thank you so much! I have been fully engrossed in this lecture, and scribbling pages of notes! Brilliant lecture, found just at the right time for me. I have experimented with oils a little, but mostly painted in watercolour and acrylics. I'm really keen to try oils again. Looking at lists of paints and colours and short demos on the internet, had left me confused. But this lecturer has answered so many questions. Thank you for your very clear explanations. I can't wait to get started. Thank you and Best wishes, Pippa xx
This is the most amazing TH-cam video I have yet discovered after more than 3 years of searching for really educational art tutorials. I feel as though I am actually one of your lucky students. Thank you so much for this video. New subscriber 😊
I feel exactly the same as you. I’ve been watching videos and reading for 3 years also and this made me want to move to Boston so I could learn from Julie!
Hi I loved this video I have learnt a lot of this my self by trial and error and by doing it's been a 20 year journey. I've enjoyed every minute of it but this information at the beginning of the journey would have been so beneficial. Your explanation and descriptions are so clear and precise and clarifying the difference between this and that. So impressed to share with other people.Thanks for your time and effort Sheila
Thank you SOOO MUCH for this video! There are so many of us new oil painters looking for great-quality, professional information in this format. I literally just subscribed. Please please please make more videos like these!
This lady knows what she's talking about. This kind of video seems to be hard to find on the net. At least I haven't seen anything this good very often.
This is amazing and what ive been looking for. Ive been painting with acrylics for about 5 years and an just starting to play around with oils. It's been a bit confusing fumbling along on my own. I would dearly love to attend your class but it isn't in the cards for me. Thank you for sharing this video. It answered sooo many questions for me.
Happy to help! I also have some recorded classes which might be helpful. I recommend the Color Bootcamp one to get a feel for oil painting basics and color mixing/color studies.
This is an excellent video. Brava!! Alizarin, by the way, is not a pigment, it's a LAKE, which means it is essentially a dye. Traditional alizarin is fugitive and is now replaced by a synthetic version (Alizarin Crimson Permanent); however, this is slightly lighter than the original.
The modern version of alizarin crimson is quinacridone magenta (PR122) or similar quinacridones like quinacridone crimson. The reason alizarin crimson was often chosen in a limited palette was because it offered a cool red. For that purpose, quinacridone magenta is far superior. It gives cleaner mixtures and a broader range of color gamut than alizarin crimson. It also has excellent lightfastness, while alizarin crimson is fugitive. Most paint manufacturers produce Alizarin Crimson *Permanent* or Alizarin Crimson *Hue* with some form of quinacridone red/magenta/crimson pigments. Still, alizarin crimson remains a popular paint color because it’s what old paint teachers teach. People continue using it just because that’s what has always been done without bothering to know why. Also because Bob Ross uses it.
@@ethonica That's very thorough; people will find it useful. Thanks!! I always use quinacridone magenta for a cool red-one has to be careful with it, though: it is a VERY strong tinter and it is easy to add too much to a mixture. As for "old paint teachers," this 77-year-old teacher tells his students to use quinacridone magenta rather than alizarin. It might be worth mentioning that alizarin is not that old a paint: it was created in the 19th century as a replacement for the even more fugitive rose madder. I agree with you that many painters today use alizarin because it's marketed as being "traditional," even thogh it's not really. It's the same with lead white (flake white, cremnitz white, bianco d'argento …), which is a terrible material that darkens and yellows after a short time-the old people used it only because it was the best available to them.
Tell it like it is, Sir. *winks* I enjoyed being nosy and reading your conversation. Btw.. I adore Lead White. Yes, it does not age well but then again... neither am I. Lead white and I make a great pair. @@michaeljohnangel6359
I really appreciate this magnificent lecture that is rich with a plethora of knowledge.. I have one question regarding the layering process.. you’ve mentioned that the next layer must be equal in drying time to the one underneath it or slower.. meaning, starting to lay a new layer with the same drying time is fine, taking in consideration that the previous layer has already started the drying process.. the question is: do you mean it’s good to lay down the next layer with no need to wait for the previous layer to dry out completely? If so, how much time to wait for the previous layer to be ready for the next one, considering that the previous layer is just paint with no added mediums or thinners? I hope I’ve made myself clear.. thank you so so much.
The previous layer needs to be dry before you paint on it again. “Dry” and “fully oxidized” are two different things. If the previous layer isn’t dry, you will activate the paint and it will be gross and chunky. If the layer is dry, the paint sits on top of the previous layer. In terms of layering the paint in general. You ideally want paints that will dry faster to go down first, (like paints with solvent, or paints with a drier added) and then slower drying layers (like just paint or paint with added oil) to be put on top. You want the added flexibility and slower drying layers on top. You want each successive layer to be equal to or slower drying than the previous layer. Oil paint takes a long time to fully oxidize and you don’t want a lower layer to dry slower than the top layer.
Very nice lecture. Thanks. A question about dispose the oily paper towels. If I have such an oil disposal bin like you have at school, when you say you empty it every night, question is where do you empty it to? To regular trash? Isn’t it still dangerous if the rags or paper towels still are going through the drying process?
Ive noticed that artists refer to some paints as being transparent. I believe this is the wrong word. Transparent means clear like glass. Translucent would be the proper word.
It is inexpensive, and an OK paint, I've heard (not that easy to get hold of Gamblin paints in the UK) but no Titanium-based paint is ever going to be a true replacement for Flake White. If you're in the USA, thank your lucky stars you still have a genuine choice: we've been robbed of ours.
@@RobertJonesWightpaint Definately not a replacement for the real thing and you are right we are lucky to have some choices still. I use the Gamblin Flake replacement in my studies and practice work as it is less harsh than Titamium on its own and has a warmer feel though it is still PW6
Thanks for the video. I believe Gamblin 1980 line is student grade however what is nice is that it is just pigment and oil with no other fillers. Old Holland, Vasari and Michael Harding are my three favorites.
@@mariagalanis6476 Yes they do use marble dust..I completely forgot. Thank you! They do not use other binders and fillers which could alter the color. I use the 1980 for some of my palette knife paintings without issue.
Gamblin's site claims their 1980 line contains 50% less pigment than their "artist grade. So, the other 50% cannot just be oil, can it? (which would explain why I despise Gamblin as the wettest oil paint that must be stored on end.. :/ There must be fillers yes?
@@manicangel7796 100% correct- I corrected myself in another comment on this. I believe they use marble dust as the filler. I store all of my gamblins flat in tube and have not had any issue with it breaking. I only use the Gamblins about 1 time a month for some fun palette knife painting.
What's funny is I went 6 years to top art schools (plus even more "education"), and I never had a basic information class like this. However, in the end, I don't think it would have helped or made any difference since these are all things one quickly learns by simply painting.
You are telling lie. Don’t you get basics of painting & colors even you went for top schools for 6 years????? I haven’t took any training, still I deliver 33 wonderful oil paints so far.. the rule of thumb is 1. Artist should learn from nature, if you don’t read the nature you can’t become good artist. 2. Learn from nature means - how green leaves turning to yellow then to red? This is natural color transformation and transition…. Observe how rainbow is forming and while shading out which colors left out ??? Orange to RED Green to yellow, yellow to orange , orange to red. Blue is stand alone color. Once you had RYGB, all colors can be achieved via proper mixing … there is no super science… Similarly burnt sienna is base color which is less opaque and you can draw your outline once you have thin layer of burnt sienna on while canvas. Somebody fill thin layer of titanium white as well. This makes you easy to wipe off your drawing if something need correction. Once drawing ( usually charcoal) then apply lean layer first then apply Fat layers. If you want to experiment with alla prima (wet on wet) still you need thin layer as under paint. For thin layer use the LUKAS thin layer oil medium, for later layers (fat layers ) use LUKAS fat layer medium or prepare your own recipe. 3. Universal recipe for oils - 1 part graham & Co Walnut alkyd+ 1 part Venice turpentine + 1 part of cold pressed linseed oil+ 1/2 part of damer varnish( if you want glaze your art otherwise don’t use) For impasto use the beeswax with paint. For FAT medium: same recipe + 1 part of STAND OIL. Enjoy your imagination & innovation with ART.
@@sairama9248Wow, that's a pretty harsh conclusion to just call someone a liar, especially when I spoke the truth. What you get at most art schools is immersion in the field, exposure to perhaps some worthwhile teachers and other aspiring artists, but mostly you get the time to achieve things on your own. I don't regret the years in art school. There may be some specific unaccredited art schools where there is more discipline and demand that students follow defined assignments, but in regular accredited art schools these days, the student is very much left on his own. The reigning philosophy seems to be that it is viewed as demeaning to harshly criticize student's efforts, or for professors to do much more than make generalized comments and suggestions. In all my classes there was zero basic guidance about use of paints and materials like shown in this video. By the way, I have a lengthy resume' of successes and top awards, plus works in many important collections and museums, so I would really appreciate your toning down the insults.
Yes! Its difficult to get a proper art training in most art schools, especially in universities. To get a proper art training I needed to go through New Masters Academy and it changed my life. Came here for the recommended intro to oils.
@@peterp79 My point was that, even at the best top art schools, studio art is not taught this way it is demonstrated in this video. And I'm not saying that it should be! Art schools and professors mostly take a hands-off approach, where they are there to provide occasional feedback, but not "how-to" instruction. The exception is in printmaking (intaglio, lithography, serigraphy) where students must be taught the basic processes. My other point is that, generally speaking, top art schools assume that fine art students have painted for years already, so they should already be quite familiar with materials and other basics shown in this video.
Alkyd paints are going to be incredibly fast drying. However, I also find how they act when you paint with them is less than desirable. They feel loose and watery sometimes and I don't love their consistencies. I do sometimes use them to "cut" regular oils for a first layer. It's kind of a compromise in a way.
When doing the initial underpainting, you said to thin the paint with turps. But what about binders? If I thin too much with turpentine, won't the next oil layers over this, flake off with the loose paint particles underneath in the underpainting?
when you mentioned oiling out, you mean just put oil on the areas that looked like they have turned soft like velvet? someone suggested that was damaged canvas and not the oil in the paint sinking in. if it is damage to the canvas will oiling it out solve the issue and then varnishing it wont show it?
You are hilarious as you have some idea that us artist types are like nurses or doctors. I've never known any real artist to be so practical. I paint in a frantic mess. I would love to see what your art is like???
Oil paint manufacturers have different formulas so some of your comments are not correct .Wiliamsburg Kings Blue is not the same as their Ultramarine Blue+ white. It also has PB15.3 in it. Calling "Hues knockoffs" isn't correct. Some artists use artist quality hues to avoid using toxic colors like Cadmiums. In Gamblin Artist quality paints Cad Yellow Medium and Cad Yellow Deep are different pigments. In WinsorNewton, Cad Yellow Deep is PY35 + PO20 And Cad Yellow Pale is only PY35. The holes on the grey scale are used for laying the scale on a painting/photograph to determine the value.
Yes you are correct on all accounts. However know that my goal here is accessible and digestable information for a beginner to start painting. I sometimes find that "useful" does not always mean perfectly technically correct. I'm trying to keep things at a simple level for anyone to understand.
For anyone that's interested in oil painting and is a beginner I always recommend this video along with art prof's oil painting techniques for beginners as well! th-cam.com/video/dPw8J2G7cqI/w-d-xo.html
I would have loved a deeper delve into Lead White as well. I used OH Cremnitz #1 for a long time (50/50 Zinc/Lead), and loved that white. Lately though I'm seeing Titanium and Lead more like an opacity spectrum, and have both on my palette, for the full spectrum.
Is there something you have a hard time understanding what I mean? Happy to elaborate if there's any confusion! Let me know any time stamps and I can clarify
I’m an acrylic painter that occasionally use oil . But this tutorial seems very old school. It’s interesting but there’s no mention of of water based oils or Liquin being used to speed drying.
This is meant for total beginners. I do not think beginners should be using additional driers becuase it changes the way the oil paint works. Same with water based oils... they act different. I prefer students start with the basics first and then get more complicated.
This is not old school either, this is just simple basics and solid technical information. I'm not having them use pig bladders to store their hand ground oil paint or anything.
This is extremely valuable content, and she did cover alkyd mediums. The only thing she missed was surface tension causing beading when oiling out, which is easily overcome by applying slight pressure in a circular motion with a bright.
To those of us who didn’t have the luxury of attending any of the “top art schools” this is a well presented primer allowing the uneducated an opportunity to learn the basics. I thank you for taking the time to start the uneducated on the road to painting. This was a wonderful video. 😊
I agree 100% from a self taught artist
I am in my first year of oil painting as a self taught artist and I have watched and saved countless videos but this video covered EVERYTHING!
What an amazing teacher!! Thank you!! 👏👏👏
I wish I could purchase the handout.
I also watched this as a Ground Zero introduction to Oil Painting - was amazed at how much I discovered - almost adding to my anxiety of trying to learn this by myself without the benefit of being in a class
“Does that make sense?” Darn right it makes sense.
Superb teacher. Generous.
Yes!! Finally, It makes sense!! 🤯 BRILLIANT!!
This is the singular most informative video I have found yet for a beginner painter. Thank you.
This is the best tutorial I've ever seen for oil painting students and I've seen possibly a hundred on youtube. My heart is bursting with "Thank You's!" I'm just now getting serious about using oils and I neeeeeeded ALL this valuable information. .... joyce
What an incredible teacher!
11 minutes in and I'm already super grateful for this fundamentals video. Thank you.
Not to cast disrespect to anyone with art videos. But this is the most thoroughly explained at a level even I can understand video on oils. Great job young lady 🎉
I like how you really pressed the issue of pigments. It is SOOOO important and honestly I hardly hear many artists talking about it. I don’t think enough people experiment with single pigments enough because it’s not often taught in intro type instruction. So I appreciate hearing you really drive the details of the paint itself and what is in it. I love oil painting and don’t do it enough. Thanks
Regarding materials, this is the best video on YT.
As an artist that stopped doing art in the early 90s, I can honestly say, this is some damn good teaching right here!
Thanks Julie. This intro class was top notch; you are an excellent instructor. I’m looking forward to more of your instructional videos!
I had the privilege of studying with Cindy MacMillan in workshops in Richmond. They were some of the best classes I’ve ever done. Thanks for posting this. I’m so glad the channel showed up in my suggestions list.
I hope she reads these comments and sees how much we appreciate her ❤️
Excellent lecture to an Intro to painting class. I went to the Savannah College of Art and Design in the late 90s. Took Intro to Painting... I was HOPING that class was even 1% of this, instead we watched VHS demos of other painters copying other masters works from various movements and was told... now use what you learn and reproduce something that fits that movement. I hope their program has gotten better, but I switched majors after I realized how unstructured their painting program was. Took me many years of learning and trial and error to pick up what Julie lectured in the first 30 mins (this was before social media and TH-cam).
Saved to watch again later.
SCAD got bigger and better since the early 90's. I went to CCA, Parsons, and a couple others and they all dance around instruction the 1st couple years. I guess to weed out the curious and then focus on the dedicated????
Doesn't make any sense to use poor quality course or delivery to 'weed out the curious'. The students are paying for proper instruction.
Outstanding! Would love to be there! Thankful it was recorded for the rest of us!
This is Amazing!!! Thank You Julie. This is much better than "Watch Me Paint" videos, or videos where an explanation of one or two concepts are drawn out into a 45 min. video just to rack up the AD views.
I've learned more in this one video than I have reading multiple books or watching dozens of other videos.
Looking forward to future videos like this one.
Very useful. There is such a variety of information and opinion on the internet that it is helpful to have a one-stop, reliable and comprehensive lecture on the basics for beginners. 😊
I graduated from a 6 years Art Academy with a bachelor degree, I never heard any of my instructors explaining oil colour this way and simplifying technique, elements, and tools the way Julie did. I now have a better understanding of oil painting and this short video improved my way of pre-thinking before any project, and advanced my technical skills by knowing even better what I am dealing with. Thank you for that and looking forward to another amazing video.
so glad you enjoyed it!!
This content is gold! thank you for sharing.
you are one of the best teachers I have ever had. Thank you so much for this very informative class
After watching your intro to oil painting I'm going to transition from acrylics back to oils. Thanks.
I watch this a few times this truly is the most articulated video on oil painting and what it’s about and how do use them I’ve ever seen thank you wonderful
What an efficient form of teaching🎉
I’m happy you guys are posting on TH-cam again 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾🙏🏾
Thank you! The best comprehensive informational video I’ve ever seen. Great Job!
Thank you for sharing such helpful information especially for a beginner oil artist like myself. You can try and learn the balance and ways of oils but unless you understand the substance you provided in this lecture you will never truly know how to work with oil paints and their mediums. Thank you again 🙏
2:32:10 describing my EXACT situation... I've been drawing me whole life, but I'm new to painting. I've done 4 paintings so far and have been banging my head against a wall wondering how people are packing so much detail into such small paintings, I'm realizing now I've been using waaayyy too much solvent/medium.
Thank you for this video!
I just loved this tutorial. Just starting oils and information is Wonderful!
Thank you so much! I have been fully engrossed in this lecture, and scribbling pages of notes! Brilliant lecture, found just at the right time for me. I have experimented with oils a little, but mostly painted in watercolour and acrylics. I'm really keen to try oils again. Looking at lists of paints and colours and short demos on the internet, had left me confused. But this lecturer has answered so many questions. Thank you for your very clear explanations. I can't wait to get started. Thank you and Best wishes, Pippa xx
This is the most amazing TH-cam video I have yet discovered after more than 3 years of searching for really educational art tutorials. I feel as though I am actually one of your lucky students. Thank you so much for this video. New subscriber 😊
I feel exactly the same as you. I’ve been watching videos and reading for 3 years also and this made me want to move to Boston so I could learn from Julie!
Hi I loved this video
I have learnt a lot of this my self by trial and error and by doing it's been a 20 year journey.
I've enjoyed every minute of it but this information at the beginning of the journey would have been so beneficial.
Your explanation and descriptions are so clear and precise and clarifying the difference between this and that.
So impressed to share with other people.Thanks for your time and effort
Sheila
Thank you SOOO MUCH for this video! There are so many of us new oil painters looking for great-quality, professional information in this format. I literally just subscribed. Please please please make more videos like these!
incredibly good tutorial video and amazing teacher!!!!
Thank you for making this available. I did not go to art school and I wish I had
I soooo glad I find you ALL! To the subject I need to learn a lot.. thanks!!!
THANK YOU for being so thorough and focused on the technical side of working with oils. Much appreciate!
This lady knows what she's talking about. This kind of video seems to be hard to find on the net. At least I haven't seen anything this good very often.
This was amazing. Thank you, and appreciate being able to watch this. 💜🖼️🖌️🎨
Excellent. So very helpful. Thank you.
Great class! ❤ Julie’s break dance move while she’s explaining the layer flexibility is the best : )
Best video yet on this subject. Thanks so much 🙏🏾
I have learned so much, thank you.
Very well presented lecture!
Very informative and great class.
Excellent lesson! ❤
This is amazing and what ive been looking for. Ive been painting with acrylics for about 5 years and an just starting to play around with oils. It's been a bit confusing fumbling along on my own. I would dearly love to attend your class but it isn't in the cards for me. Thank you for sharing this video. It answered sooo many questions for me.
Happy to help! I also have some recorded classes which might be helpful. I recommend the Color Bootcamp one to get a feel for oil painting basics and color mixing/color studies.
Can those be found on the website?
Wonderful presentation, thanks for posting :)
Beautiful!!! Cant wait to try this!!
Really enjoyable. Thanks for publishing.
Very informative. thank you very much
This is an excellent video. Brava!! Alizarin, by the way, is not a pigment, it's a LAKE, which means it is essentially a dye. Traditional alizarin is fugitive and is now replaced by a synthetic version (Alizarin Crimson Permanent); however, this is slightly lighter than the original.
😍😍😍 thank you soooo much!
The modern version of alizarin crimson is quinacridone magenta (PR122) or similar quinacridones like quinacridone crimson.
The reason alizarin crimson was often chosen in a limited palette was because it offered a cool red. For that purpose, quinacridone magenta is far superior. It gives cleaner mixtures and a broader range of color gamut than alizarin crimson. It also has excellent lightfastness, while alizarin crimson is fugitive.
Most paint manufacturers produce Alizarin Crimson *Permanent* or Alizarin Crimson *Hue* with some form of quinacridone red/magenta/crimson pigments.
Still, alizarin crimson remains a popular paint color because it’s what old paint teachers teach. People continue using it just because that’s what has always been done without bothering to know why. Also because Bob Ross uses it.
@@ethonica That's very thorough; people will find it useful. Thanks!! I always use quinacridone magenta for a cool red-one has to be careful with it, though: it is a VERY strong tinter and it is easy to add too much to a mixture. As for "old paint teachers," this 77-year-old teacher tells his students to use quinacridone magenta rather than alizarin. It might be worth mentioning that alizarin is not that old a paint: it was created in the 19th century as a replacement for the even more fugitive rose madder.
I agree with you that many painters today use alizarin because it's marketed as being "traditional," even thogh it's not really. It's the same with lead white (flake white, cremnitz white, bianco d'argento …), which is a terrible material that darkens and yellows after a short time-the old people used it only because it was the best available to them.
Tell it like it is, Sir. *winks* I enjoyed being nosy and reading your conversation. Btw.. I adore Lead White. Yes, it does not age well but then again... neither am I. Lead white and I make a great pair. @@michaeljohnangel6359
Age is irrelevant except when it is a blessing. @@ethonica
Thank you so much for posting this!
Absolutely excellent!
I’d love this lady as my tutor !!
this is excellent, thankyou
this is amazing! thank you so much
Very informative, well put thank you...
right at the beginning, sensible safety advice and not pearl clutching panic about oils.
Very informative. Thanks
Is there by chance a download of the handout she kept showing on screen?
Yes please! That is what I keep hoping for.
There is! juliebcreative.gumroad.com/l/furhj
juliebcreative.gumroad.com/l/furhj
@@araboston wow, thanks so much !
30:40 Didn't notice the zoom window, and I freaked out with the hand becoming huge.
I really appreciate this magnificent lecture that is rich with a plethora of knowledge.. I have one question regarding the layering process.. you’ve mentioned that the next layer must be equal in drying time to the one underneath it or slower.. meaning, starting to lay a new layer with the same drying time is fine, taking in consideration that the previous layer has already started the drying process.. the question is: do you mean it’s good to lay down the next layer with no need to wait for the previous layer to dry out completely? If so, how much time to wait for the previous layer to be ready for the next one, considering that the previous layer is just paint with no added mediums or thinners? I hope I’ve made myself clear.. thank you so so much.
The previous layer needs to be dry before you paint on it again. “Dry” and “fully oxidized” are two different things. If the previous layer isn’t dry, you will activate the paint and it will be gross and chunky. If the layer is dry, the paint sits on top of the previous layer.
In terms of layering the paint in general. You ideally want paints that will dry faster to go down first, (like paints with solvent, or paints with a drier added) and then slower drying layers (like just paint or paint with added oil) to be put on top. You want the added flexibility and slower drying layers on top. You want each successive layer to be equal to or slower drying than the previous layer. Oil paint takes a long time to fully oxidize and you don’t want a lower layer to dry slower than the top layer.
@@JulieBeck Thank you so much for the reply.. I’ve just discovered your channel and I appreciate you teachings greatly..
Very nice lecture. Thanks. A question about dispose the oily paper towels. If I have such an oil disposal bin like you have at school, when you say you empty it every night, question is where do you empty it to? To regular trash? Isn’t it still dangerous if the rags or paper towels still are going through the drying process?
Can you elaborate on the Kerry’s Canvas? Which line exactly and how is it they have gone down? Please and thank you!
Ive noticed that artists refer to some paints as being transparent. I believe this is the wrong word. Transparent means clear like glass. Translucent would be the proper word.
Love love love this information lesson. Thank you so much!
Question: is there a possibility that I can buy a handout through Paypal please.?
Also have made the switch to Rublev/Natural Pigments Lead White. A really nice white that is inexpensive is Gamblin Flake White Replacement.
It is inexpensive, and an OK paint, I've heard (not that easy to get hold of Gamblin paints in the UK) but no Titanium-based paint is ever going to be a true replacement for Flake White. If you're in the USA, thank your lucky stars you still have a genuine choice: we've been robbed of ours.
@@RobertJonesWightpaint Definately not a replacement for the real thing and you are right we are lucky to have some choices still. I use the Gamblin Flake replacement in my studies and practice work as it is less harsh than Titamium on its own and has a warmer feel though it is still PW6
Great advice
Thanks for the video. I believe Gamblin 1980 line is student grade however what is nice is that it is just pigment and oil with no other fillers. Old Holland, Vasari and Michael Harding are my three favorites.
I think you’ll find Gamblin does actually use a filler in their student quality oil paints-calcium carbonate (marble dust) 🌞🎨
@@mariagalanis6476 Yes they do use marble dust..I completely forgot. Thank you! They do not use other binders and fillers which could alter the color. I use the 1980 for some of my palette knife paintings without issue.
Gamblin's site claims their 1980 line contains 50% less pigment than their "artist grade. So, the other 50% cannot just be oil, can it? (which would explain why I despise Gamblin as the wettest oil paint that must be stored on end.. :/ There must be fillers yes?
@@manicangel7796 100% correct- I corrected myself in another comment on this. I believe they use marble dust as the filler. I store all of my gamblins flat in tube and have not had any issue with it breaking. I only use the Gamblins about 1 time a month for some fun palette knife painting.
What's funny is I went 6 years to top art schools (plus even more "education"), and I never had a basic information class like this. However, in the end, I don't think it would have helped or made any difference since these are all things one quickly learns by simply painting.
You are telling lie. Don’t you get basics of painting & colors even you went for top schools for 6 years?????
I haven’t took any training, still I deliver 33 wonderful oil paints so far.. the rule of thumb is
1. Artist should learn from nature, if you don’t read the nature you can’t become good artist.
2. Learn from nature means - how green leaves turning to yellow then to red?
This is natural color transformation and transition…. Observe how rainbow is forming and while shading out which colors left out ???
Orange to RED
Green to yellow, yellow to orange , orange to red.
Blue is stand alone color. Once you had
RYGB, all colors can be achieved via proper mixing … there is no super science…
Similarly burnt sienna is base color which is less opaque and you can draw your outline once you have thin layer of burnt sienna on while canvas. Somebody fill thin layer of titanium white as well. This makes you easy to wipe off your drawing if something need correction.
Once drawing ( usually charcoal) then apply lean layer first then apply Fat layers.
If you want to experiment with alla prima (wet on wet) still you need thin layer as under paint.
For thin layer use the LUKAS thin layer oil medium, for later layers (fat layers ) use LUKAS fat layer medium or prepare your own recipe.
3. Universal recipe for oils -
1 part graham & Co Walnut alkyd+ 1 part Venice turpentine + 1 part of cold pressed linseed oil+ 1/2 part of damer varnish( if you want glaze your art otherwise don’t use)
For impasto use the beeswax with paint.
For FAT medium: same recipe + 1 part of STAND OIL. Enjoy your imagination & innovation with ART.
@@sairama9248Wow, that's a pretty harsh conclusion to just call someone a liar, especially when I spoke the truth. What you get at most art schools is immersion in the field, exposure to perhaps some worthwhile teachers and other aspiring artists, but mostly you get the time to achieve things on your own. I don't regret the years in art school. There may be some specific unaccredited art schools where there is more discipline and demand that students follow defined assignments, but in regular accredited art schools these days, the student is very much left on his own. The reigning philosophy seems to be that it is viewed as demeaning to harshly criticize student's efforts, or for professors to do much more than make generalized comments and suggestions. In all my classes there was zero basic guidance about use of paints and materials like shown in this video. By the way, I have a lengthy resume' of successes and top awards, plus works in many important collections and museums, so I would really appreciate your toning down the insults.
Yes! Its difficult to get a proper art training in most art schools, especially in universities. To get a proper art training I needed to go through New Masters Academy and it changed my life. Came here for the recommended intro to oils.
I 1 fine arts class and they never went this deep. Loving this.
@@peterp79 My point was that, even at the best top art schools, studio art is not taught this way it is demonstrated in this video. And I'm not saying that it should be! Art schools and professors mostly take a hands-off approach, where they are there to provide occasional feedback, but not "how-to" instruction. The exception is in printmaking (intaglio, lithography, serigraphy) where students must be taught the basic processes. My other point is that, generally speaking, top art schools assume that fine art students have painted for years already, so they should already be quite familiar with materials and other basics shown in this video.
Thanks for the video Julie. What about alkyd paints. Windsor Newton
Alkyd paints are going to be incredibly fast drying. However, I also find how they act when you paint with them is less than desirable. They feel loose and watery sometimes and I don't love their consistencies. I do sometimes use them to "cut" regular oils for a first layer. It's kind of a compromise in a way.
Does "deep" always refer to warmer and "light" always refer to cooler, and "medium" nuetral? Really wish I had the handout!
Is white a color or tint?
When doing the initial underpainting, you said to thin the paint with turps. But what about binders? If I thin too much with turpentine, won't the next oil layers over this, flake off with the loose paint particles underneath in the underpainting?
You should only use A LITTLE BIT of solvent. A dab will do ya!
@@JulieBeck Thanks
Good stuff!
when you mentioned oiling out, you mean just put oil on the areas that looked like they have turned soft like velvet? someone suggested that was damaged canvas and not the oil in the paint sinking in. if it is damage to the canvas will oiling it out solve the issue and then varnishing it wont show it?
I can’t live without a colbalt teal
Very interesting
Hahaha “Don’t Eat Your Paint!” 😂 my wife always tells me “you need to switch to something non toxic” and that’s my response too 🎉
I'm not really sure why, as it makes ZERO sense but for some reason Paynes Grey taste like grape.
@@manicangel7796 🤣🍇
Oil does evaporate just more slowly
Thank You!
Very nice "Does that make sense"?
😍
You are hilarious as you have some idea that us artist types are like nurses or doctors. I've never known any real artist to be so practical. I paint in a frantic mess. I would love to see what your art is like???
Gamblin oil paint is not stiff. Maybe some selective tubes can be, but it's not common, and Gamblin is better than WN for sure
Her hair is freaking cool
Thanks!!
The only thing that would make this better was if I had the handout!! It would save me trying to record notes on paper.
Handout is free on my Gumroad!
I found the handout free on your website! Outstanding!
She understands the drawer's struggle with paint 😢
You’d learn a lot about how the pigments differ by using watercolor
Paint flexibility can be remedied by using Masonite as a substrate.
Harris Shirley Jones Eric Gonzalez Mark
35:00
I have heard of people using baby oil? No?
absolutely not. Baby oil does not dry. Never introduce a non-drying oil into your brushes or into your paint.
Oil paint manufacturers have different formulas so some of your comments are not correct .Wiliamsburg Kings Blue is not the same as their Ultramarine Blue+ white. It also has PB15.3 in it. Calling "Hues knockoffs" isn't correct. Some artists use artist quality hues to avoid using toxic colors like Cadmiums. In Gamblin Artist quality paints Cad Yellow Medium and Cad Yellow Deep are different pigments. In WinsorNewton, Cad Yellow Deep is PY35 + PO20 And Cad Yellow Pale is only PY35. The holes on the grey scale are used for laying the scale on a painting/photograph to determine the value.
Yes you are correct on all accounts. However know that my goal here is accessible and digestable information for a beginner to start painting. I sometimes find that "useful" does not always mean perfectly technically correct. I'm trying to keep things at a simple level for anyone to understand.
@@JulieBeck nailed it calling hues knock offs, they just do not have the pigment load as you said.
@@JulieBeckThere's always a pendant. ALWAYS!
I'm not sure what you're referring to here? A pendant? @@damienkearns3654
For anyone that's interested in oil painting and is a beginner I always recommend this video along with art prof's oil painting techniques for beginners as well! th-cam.com/video/dPw8J2G7cqI/w-d-xo.html
No mention of Flake white.
Flake white is lead white
I would have loved a deeper delve into Lead White as well. I used OH Cremnitz #1 for a long time (50/50 Zinc/Lead), and loved that white. Lately though I'm seeing Titanium and Lead more like an opacity spectrum, and have both on my palette, for the full spectrum.
As an instructor, how many times is she going to say "stuff" instead of what she actually means by "stuff"? Just sayin...
Is there something you have a hard time understanding what I mean? Happy to elaborate if there's any confusion! Let me know any time stamps and I can clarify
she means stuff bro, relax
mommy
The oil painting term might be "Rubenesque," but yes, motivation to paint is a big, sizeable topic that every artist needs to grapple with.
This wickedness is nothing like mom marvelous's
I’m an acrylic painter that occasionally use oil . But this tutorial seems very old school. It’s interesting but there’s no mention of of water based oils or Liquin being used to speed drying.
This is meant for total beginners. I do not think beginners should be using additional driers becuase it changes the way the oil paint works. Same with water based oils... they act different. I prefer students start with the basics first and then get more complicated.
This is not old school either, this is just simple basics and solid technical information. I'm not having them use pig bladders to store their hand ground oil paint or anything.
This is extremely valuable content, and she did cover alkyd mediums. The only thing she missed was surface tension causing beading when oiling out, which is easily overcome by applying slight pressure in a circular motion with a bright.
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