Devin, Is there a reason you like this style bead for this pattern as opposed to a regular bead? Is it purely bc that bead will invert the fly without the use of lead or a jig hook?
Thanks Devin, I really enjoy your videos, books, and tying sessions. I have one question, when tying a fly that is intended to be used as a dropper, do you add a bead to the fly even if your point fly is heavy enough for the entire setup? Thanks very much,
Devin, I guess I'm missing something, If the point fly is reaching the bottom why add additional weight to the dropper? Wouldn't the dropper move more naturally without weight?
Fishing two flies will automatically separate them into different current seams which will reduce the quality of the drift to begin with. So if I’m already getting to depth with one fly I will leave it a single fly rig for the best possible drift or I will reduce the size and weight of the point fly but have a weighted dropper so both flies can be smaller. Unweighted droppers tend to wrap around the leader as well which can lead to tangled or the fly looking like it has two pieces of tippet attached to it.
Roy, I do feel more confident with the addition of the wingcase personally but that's up to each tyer to decide. If you want a little food for thought you should read this www.tacticalflyfisher.com/blog/wingcases-shellbacks-and-wings-to-invert-or-not-to-invert-that-is-the-question/
Hey Devin - having a tough time keeping a slotted bead in place even with weight on a straight nymph hook. Any suggestions on how to keep it in place with or without weight on both a jig and nymph hook? Thanks
Love those beads! Hope we can get them here in Scotland. These beads would allow me to use any hook without always having to use a jig hook. I like using the synthetic printed quills, have you tried them in olive? They last much longer and are far stronger than the natural ones. A wee blob of uv over them and they look great. Terrific looking wee Baetis nymph and I'll be tying these up for our winter Grayling. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Cailean. I do ship to Scotland if you are interested in the inverting beads. And I have tried the synthetic quills but appreciate the width and thinness of the natural quills on smaller patterns.
Do you oversize beads do that you can fish a smaller fly with the same weight. For an example fish a 18 with a 2.3 mil bead instead of using a size 16 with the 2.3 mil bead. Or do you just oversize your beads to use a heavier fly?
Give this post a read and it will help you understand the reasoning behind why I kept the wingcase on the top of an inverted fly. www.tacticalflyfisher.com/blog/wingcases-shellbacks-and-wings-to-invert-or-not-to-invert-that-is-the-question/
Got it. Essentially, it's all about attraction "theory" (rather assumption). Makes sense. Story of tumbling insects seems to me too stretched, kind of excuse . Statistically... just doesn't makes any sense. However, keying dark spot, regardless of position, seem just enough. Here's my two cents: almost all my nymphs with beads, rides hook up, statistically most of the time. Practically, anybodies nymph goes hook up if it is tied (1) heavy, on a (2) down eyed hook. Jig hook just force that position even more. My kind of "testing" of a Copper John Nymph (regular - with "wing case of flash", and other kind -with "wing case of flash" that rides toward surface) tells me that is more successful to have that pearl flash that rides toward bottom, hence toward fish (tied on the opposite side of a hook gap, regular way; which goes hook up anyway, almost all the time). Thank You for those inspiring thought! ;)
It doesn’t really matter. Just submerge them and by the time you get to that step it will be ready. You can leave the rest of them in the drink until you get to that step for each bug in the batch you tie.
I catch a lot of fish with these. Great fly!
Devin,
Is there a reason you like this style bead for this pattern as opposed to a regular bead? Is it purely bc that bead will invert the fly without the use of lead or a jig hook?
Hi what color would you recommend for lighter version of this fly? I’m thinking for PMDs etc
Thanks
The BWO's are hatching on my home river, the little juniata, and this pattern has been producing very well
Robert Payne glad to hear it!
Thank you for sharing your expertise ! You’re a legend !!
Ahhh thanks!
Wooooooo Competition Flies My Favourite ! Happy Thanksgiving.
Happy Thanksgiving to you too!
Thanks Devin, I really enjoy your videos, books, and tying sessions. I have one question, when tying a fly that is intended to be used as a dropper, do you add a bead to the fly even if your point fly is heavy enough for the entire setup? Thanks very much,
rjfeld11 yes. If I’m going to fish two flies it would be very rare to not have the dropper add weight to the system.
Devin, I guess I'm missing something, If the point fly is reaching the bottom why add additional weight to the dropper? Wouldn't the dropper move more naturally without weight?
Fishing two flies will automatically separate them into different current seams which will reduce the quality of the drift to begin with. So if I’m already getting to depth with one fly I will leave it a single fly rig for the best possible drift or I will reduce the size and weight of the point fly but have a weighted dropper so both flies can be smaller. Unweighted droppers tend to wrap around the leader as well which can lead to tangled or the fly looking like it has two pieces of tippet attached to it.
Thank you very much, I really appreciate your work and your personal interest.
1@@tacticalflyfisher3817
Does the black spot *really* contribute to attracting fish?
Roy,
I do feel more confident with the addition of the wingcase personally but that's up to each tyer to decide. If you want a little food for thought you should read this www.tacticalflyfisher.com/blog/wingcases-shellbacks-and-wings-to-invert-or-not-to-invert-that-is-the-question/
Hey Devin - having a tough time keeping a slotted bead in place even with weight on a straight nymph hook. Any suggestions on how to keep it in place with or without weight on both a jig and nymph hook? Thanks
You can always prop it up with some thread wraps behind the bead. If you put enough behind it it will hold it in place.
Love those beads! Hope we can get them here in Scotland. These beads would allow me to use any hook without always having to use a jig hook. I like using the synthetic printed quills, have you tried them in olive? They last much longer and are far stronger than the natural ones. A wee blob of uv over them and they look great. Terrific looking wee Baetis nymph and I'll be tying these up for our winter Grayling. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Cailean. I do ship to Scotland if you are interested in the inverting beads. And I have tried the synthetic quills but appreciate the width and thinness of the natural quills on smaller patterns.
@Tactical Fly Fisher, do you have any problems fitting this bead style through the 4mm hole in a fips mouche gauge?
Wayne S. I’ve tried them all through the gauge I have and they fit
Do you oversize beads do that you can fish a smaller fly with the same weight. For an example fish a 18 with a 2.3 mil bead instead of using a size 16 with the 2.3 mil bead. Or do you just oversize your beads to use a heavier fly?
Yes. I will fish multiple sizes of beads on the same size hook depending on the weight I'm after.
Tactical Fly Fisher general how many different bead sizes will you fish on one hook size
What kind of wing buds grows on belly side?!? ;)
I like your tactical approach, hence the question. Keep up with good work..
Give this post a read and it will help you understand the reasoning behind why I kept the wingcase on the top of an inverted fly.
www.tacticalflyfisher.com/blog/wingcases-shellbacks-and-wings-to-invert-or-not-to-invert-that-is-the-question/
Got it. Essentially, it's all about attraction "theory" (rather assumption). Makes sense.
Story of tumbling insects seems to me too stretched, kind of excuse . Statistically... just doesn't makes any sense.
However, keying dark spot, regardless of position, seem just enough.
Here's my two cents: almost all my nymphs with beads, rides hook up, statistically most of the time. Practically, anybodies nymph goes hook up if it is tied (1) heavy, on a (2) down eyed hook. Jig hook just force that position even more.
My kind of "testing" of a Copper John Nymph (regular - with "wing case of flash", and other kind -with "wing case of flash" that rides toward surface) tells me that is more successful to have that pearl flash that rides toward bottom, hence toward fish (tied on the opposite side of a hook gap, regular way; which goes hook up anyway, almost all the time).
Thank You for those inspiring thought! ;)
How long do you soak the quills for prior to tying? Thanks
It doesn’t really matter. Just submerge them and by the time you get to that step it will be ready. You can leave the rest of them in the drink until you get to that step for each bug in the batch you tie.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 thx. Also do you just get one fly out of each quill?
@@chriscrumbley9219 yes
Very cool
USE VEG OIL TO SOFTEN QUILL
That would soften it but the resin wouldn’t stick to it afterward.
Would be great if you re did this video with a slotted bead and jig hook
If you were to recommend only two perdigons for 90% of your fishing which two would you recommend?thanks
The Quilldigon and a black krystal flash version of the butano
So the identical tie as per your orange butano but substitute with black krystal flash?
correct