Very good tip about checking connectivity with heatsink. In tech-college during the first semester, we had to make a 240V dimmer using a triac. When I went to get it approved, by the teacher he was like, looks great just push the triac down on the circuit board and screw it down. So I pushed it back and got a massive jolt. My teacher looked at me as if I was a typical Hollywood actor faking it. I was like: "FUCK ME! THAT'S THE 220V!" He was like: "No way!!! If it's even on the 'hot bed' than it's on the low voltage end 12V. So I said: "Well you try it, sir!" He said: "Do I look that stupid to you? I have the DIGITAL" (which was The Dutch component bible off the early 90s -- ironic for a typical analogue part). He looked it up and was amazed to see that the heatsink was indeed the AC, ground (for AC it makes no difference). He made in in the spur of the moment lesson out of it. Pretty cool to be in the 5th or 6th week of your college and learn this shit the hard way. I guess that's what college is all about, learning by doing it.
Something to keep in mind about that thermocouple - the temperature 'read' by the chip is the difference between the thermocouple itself and the reference built into that chip - so 'inside' the oven control area the chip might get warm which means your oven will read higher than it is - A good idea to check and make sure once the oven is hot use a thermocouple on a multimeter and verify the readings are still good.
Another really good video Ben. I particularly like the tips about proper troubleshooting, and going in reverse with one piece at a time. It sounds obvious to people who have experience with troubleshooting issues with code, circuitry, etc.; but people new to this type of stuff probably won't automatically think about it that way. Good job.
Ben, how about some links for the various modules for this project. And more detail on how they are exactly connected. -- Example: Thermal Couples & controllers. Brand and/or part # - Power Supply, etc. Also the LCD and its controller. -- And the Code would be nice!
Is there a list of all the components I would need to do this build and the code for the embedded chip? Is there a step by step guide to build these? Also any toaster recommendations?
instead of using two thermocouple amplifiers, and since you can read only one at the time anyway, would it be feasible to add some switch to select which of the thermocouples to read instead?, and use only one amplifier? Or is there some requirements around the amplifier and thermocouple that it should be connected the whole time?
So, about this thing... The solid state relay is mounted to the wooden panel - which means practically no heat conduction away from the SSR. Is this a problem in practice? I've been gearing up to build my own reflow toaster, and one of the things that's concerned me is that all the documentation on the SSRs (plus several angry reviews) seem to indicate they dissipate some of the switched power as heat, and therefore need to either be seriously de-rated (like using a 50W SSR to control a 10W load) or else stuck on a big heatsink to dissipate that heat. With that in mind I went with a higher current rating on my SSR than I really needed when ordering parts... How important are these concerns in practice, given that a reflow toaster like this will only be operating for a few minutes at a time, etc.? Also, what kind of heat-up/cool-down rate did you get from this oven? Was it fast enough to fit the profile? (And isn't it kind of irritating to have the controls and display on the side of the oven instead of the front?)
I guess you could add a fan but that would create additional failure modes. If you're building ONE re-flow toaster (or anything) for that matter, then you should over engineer the design anyway. It should only set you back a few bucks.
Hey Ben, I'm really interested in these home-made reflow ovens and I've seen another youtuber using a 3rd-Party module to convert a toaster to a reflow-oven. In his video he had problems with the grill where the pcb's are sitting at. Do you encounter the same problems as him like bad reflow of the solderpaste where the rods of the grill are located? I'm really curious about that. Greetings from Vienna - Andreas
Hi Ben, Where can I find the code and any schematics used in this reflow oven project please? I'm designing a homebrew reflow oven at the minute and I want to incorporate the best features of several designs I've seen on the internet including this one. By doing so I hope to eliminate any early teething issues by making use of tried and tested designs. The oven I'm using has 4 standard elements. All wired up seperately. Because standard elements aren't as responsive as halogen or infrared, I plan to control these elements either independently or as banks of 2 to get finer control over the heating to stay closer to the profile - if that makes sense? I'll also be including a rear mounted circulation and cooling fan into my design to help circulate the warm air during the reflow process and to aid with cooling at the end. My coding skills are pretty weak due to lack of practice so my firmware will be an amalgamation of all the software from the designs I use - at least until I get my C foo back :) Many thanks. Really enjoy your shows. They've inspired me no end :)
Tumbleweed hi ben, please send me all your hard work for free, then tell me how it works, ill take all the software you've developed, gerber files, schematics and extra components you have laying around, thanks. also, could you pay for shipping?? great, thanks
+Jeff Waterman A of people learn through code examples and reverse engineering projects like this. Taking a known working example, and tweaking it can be paramount for some when it comes to learning coding and electronics in general.
You actually don't need any of that craziness... We've baked 1000's of SMT boards in several different $10 toaster ovens from goodwill. You set to highest temp and wait till everything has flowed ~3-5min. Once completely flowed, kill oven, and open door to cool. DONE. It really is that simple.
I tried this in the toaster I bought for my reflow oven project, and in four trials, I got one successful reflow - and three melted PCBs. I really would not recommend melting PCBs. It produces a really foul (and poisonous, no doubt) stench. It could be the toasters you tried don't produce as much heat, and therefore don't get close to burning the PCB material in the amount of time you have them running... But if you're getting whatever toaster you happen to find at the thrift shop, I'd be careful, run the thing with some good ventilation if nothing else.
Scope-Eye video Well it's pretty important to turn off the oven and open the door as soon as all the paste has flowed. If it's hot enough to burn the PCB the solder should have flowed well over a min ago. I do recommend performing a few experiments to get the feel of it. I've burn boards as well, but only when forgetting to set a reminder alarm. It's really not that hard. FWIW I use leaded solder paste, not sure how lead free would perform in comparison. This routinely works for me with batches of six 10x10cm boards.
hmm, wonder if this could be used to reflow a PS3 or Xbox 360 board...yea, I know the oven would need to be bigger to accommodate for the size of the PS3/Xbox 360 boards
Ben you Rock! Great as all ways, cant wait! to get started..the code part was funny...software/hardware ugh! glad I married a software girl. Thank You!
The Ben Heck Show Ben, I have watched your videos for inspiration since you started out, and this was one of the projects I recreated myself. Obviously I tried to not copy you, creating my own code and design, but I have a small request. I think many users on here, like me have more trouble with the code rather than the wiring and theory. If you could do more programming explanations or even a video with tips, that would be great. Keep up the good work.
What, you mean like what the Wii U does? Don't count on it... The Wii U's entire system design was built around being able to do that... I mean, I can hook up my tablet so it will show the desktop on my PC, but it runs at about 3fps, and there's a huge delay before the screen updates if it has to update the whole thing, and you'd go mad trying to play games that way. The Wii U needs all of the following to make it's wireless display streaming work: 1. High Bandwidth Wi-fi (It's a 5ghz dual band wi-fi stream, JUST for the screen. There is an entirely different wi-fi chip in the system to be able to connect to the internet as well.). - The range is also pretty low compared to generic wifi systems. 2. Low resolution display; (The screen is 720 by 480 aka 480p - And that's not just so they can use a cheap screen or lower powered GPU... It's hard to stream video with very low latency over a wireless connecion.) 3. Custom video encoding. - Most streaming video is not optimised in the slightest for gaming; You'd need to use something where the most important thing is latency. In short, if you used a tablet PC as a base you might get partway there, but without a lot of pretty complex stuff, you couldn't just do this with an xbox controller and create a result you could actually play games with. Or even watch movies with... (You might be able to use the menus or browser over a system like that, but that's about all...)
Scope-Eye video Ah... You do have a point there... But what kind of wireless, low-latency video streaming technologies exist that would be easy for a modder to implement? The 'low latency' stuff in particular is very challenging...
KuraIthys I used to have this thing, it was made for people who wanted to share the picture from their cable box or VCR in multiple rooms. I expect it just took the video signal, modulated it with an RF carrier and transmitted it. Then there was a similar box on the other end that would receive the signal and convert it back to something the TV could handle (composite? Or re-modulated for channel 3?) Though now that I actually bother to do a Google search or two - PS4 doesn't have a composite out, it only does HDMI apparently. So I guess that wouldn't work.
Using oven as reflow was only good if you are heating a particular target, without the other components within the board or else you will fry them along with the chip and will be destroyed
I know this project here is probably the low end of your genius mind, you're one smart cookie! I love having projects of all kinds, but people do Solder Reflows in a frying pan which sounds crazy to me, why can't you just use the oven as is with a high quality oven thermostat, keeping a trained eye on the project? Please don't get me wrong, I appreciate this project as well!
14:05 I'm sure you can design a circuit to keep the kids a certain distance from the TV. But can you design a circuit to prevent adults from buying into an urban legend about how being close to a TV is somehow harmful?
Scope-Eye video Sorry - watched it again but on a larger screen. Now I can see them melting. So it's just faster than to do it one by one (using solder machine, or whatever it called in english don't really know). I always thought it's danger to expose them (circuit boards) to high temperatures. Sorry if my english is not so good. ;-)
I originally built a similar one a while ago but have recently built a new version which improves on the design.. It incorporates more heat (4 elements instead of 2) but more importantly 1) a fan to move the air around inside which gives a much more even heating.. 2) a solenoid to automatically open the door when it gets up to temperature 3) a heatsink for the SSR 4) a fan to keep the electronics cool because it has a fan, there is no need for two thermocouples... results are better than the original toaster oven for version 3.0 have a look at this video XmSbU3uDNm4 and H4tSKgHLTck
It solders the chip down to the board. When you're designing a circuit using surface-mount components, it's often possible to hand-solder it but the process can be difficult and time-consuming. An easier way is to reflow the board: You apply solder paste to the solder pads on the board, put the components in place, and heat up the board until the solder paste melts. If you do it right, you can solder all the components onto the board (or multiple boards) all at once.
respected sir , could please make teach how to make a polargraph drawing machine, i am not a sciencestudent so i get a few queries , soplease make it a video which even a dummy could understand , and instead of an arduino processor can u find out a way to use my nexus 7 2012 , or any other android device for the project , please help thanking you ,from india
LoL the description says thermal couples LMFAO! Allyson MUST HAVE goofed that thermo-couples business! RIP ALLYSON, you were replaced with sub- par guy! IT IS NOTICEABLE IN THE PRODUCTION QUALITY, THE NEW KID IS A NOOB!
no....if someone puts food in it you;ve fucked up. one, you dont want food anywhere near the flux and or lead residue building up over years. 2) to really follow a temp profile you should have added tons of insulation and heat tape over the window in the door
i really like your shows. My only complaint is that you're only giving us ideas, but your not giving any sort of 'how-to'. Its amusing to watch, but not very useful! it would be appreciated if there is a way to share the hardware/software of your projects so we can learn as well. Thanks.
I watched this whole thing and learned virtually nothing. I did hear a lot of technobabble though but for someone like me who is new to this, none of this helped much. Sorry.
Time & Parts = $1000 later... you got a $200 appliance ! Lets get real. A real electronics tech understands time&money .... throws that in the garbage, and buys the proper appliance. Problem solved... and still see kids grow up.
finally, project that only took 1 episode. its much better than having it split. i like it
You might want to check the Thermistor circuit - the analogue sensor will always see Vcc. (I am glad to see that others can leave stuff out as well!)
Very good tip about checking connectivity with heatsink. In tech-college during the first semester, we had to make a 240V dimmer using a triac.
When I went to get it approved, by the teacher he was like, looks great just push the triac down on the circuit board and screw it down. So I pushed it back and got a massive jolt.
My teacher looked at me as if I was a typical Hollywood actor faking it. I was like: "FUCK ME! THAT'S THE 220V!" He was like: "No way!!! If it's even on the 'hot bed' than it's on the low voltage end 12V. So I said: "Well you try it, sir!"
He said: "Do I look that stupid to you? I have the DIGITAL" (which was The Dutch component bible off the early 90s -- ironic for a typical analogue part).
He looked it up and was amazed to see that the heatsink was indeed the AC, ground (for AC it makes no difference). He made in in the spur of the moment lesson out of it. Pretty cool to be in the 5th or 6th week of your college and learn this shit the hard way. I guess that's what college is all about, learning by doing it.
Something to keep in mind about that thermocouple - the temperature 'read' by the chip is the difference between the thermocouple itself and the reference built into that chip - so 'inside' the oven control area the chip might get warm which means your oven will read higher than it is - A good idea to check and make sure once the oven is hot use a thermocouple on a multimeter and verify the readings are still good.
Thanks for the thermistor and thermocouple introduction this was just what i was needing! Thanks a million!
you are missing a resistor in the thermistor schemmatic
in the thermistor you should have a resistor beforethe ptc /ntc else you will always get vcc
3:41 this guys a slayer!!
1) Dim control is actually Contrast control.
2) Using header is a very good idea.
Another really good video Ben. I particularly like the tips about proper troubleshooting, and going in reverse with one piece at a time. It sounds obvious to people who have experience with troubleshooting issues with code, circuitry, etc.; but people new to this type of stuff probably won't automatically think about it that way. Good job.
This is on my todo project list! Thanks Ben!
Ben, how about some links for the various modules for this project.
And more detail on how they are exactly connected.
--
Example: Thermal Couples & controllers. Brand and/or part # - Power Supply, etc.
Also the LCD and its controller.
--
And the Code would be nice!
Another great show! Thanks! I might add, though, that I think you can get rid of the constant background music.
Very,very nicely done video. I really enjoyed it.
Is there a list of all the components I would need to do this build and the code for the embedded chip? Is there a step by step guide to build these? Also any toaster recommendations?
Ben where can I get the code you used and plans for the Ben Heck's Home-Brew Solder Reflow Oven 2.0.
Is the white board drawing of the thermistor right ... the analog sensor signal is connected directly to Vcc ... just asking ... ???
Wish they would sell those toasters in my country. Sadly haven't found any in consumer stores...
instead of using two thermocouple amplifiers, and since you can read only one at the time anyway, would it be feasible to add some switch to select which of the thermocouples to read instead?, and use only one amplifier?
Or is there some requirements around the amplifier and thermocouple that it should be connected the whole time?
Is the sketch used in this project available? Would love to see the averaging code..
So, about this thing...
The solid state relay is mounted to the wooden panel - which means practically no heat conduction away from the SSR. Is this a problem in practice? I've been gearing up to build my own reflow toaster, and one of the things that's concerned me is that all the documentation on the SSRs (plus several angry reviews) seem to indicate they dissipate some of the switched power as heat, and therefore need to either be seriously de-rated (like using a 50W SSR to control a 10W load) or else stuck on a big heatsink to dissipate that heat. With that in mind I went with a higher current rating on my SSR than I really needed when ordering parts... How important are these concerns in practice, given that a reflow toaster like this will only be operating for a few minutes at a time, etc.?
Also, what kind of heat-up/cool-down rate did you get from this oven? Was it fast enough to fit the profile?
(And isn't it kind of irritating to have the controls and display on the side of the oven instead of the front?)
I guess you could add a fan but that would create additional failure modes. If you're building ONE re-flow toaster (or anything) for that matter, then you should over engineer the design anyway. It should only set you back a few bucks.
I see the r9 in the background also the intel chip gaming build?
What did you base the reflow code off of? Or did you write the whole thing from scratch?
I have to build one of these but were do you get the parts I could use this for sure.
Nice sweater. It's like Darth Vader meets Mr. Rogers
Hey Ben, I'm really interested in these home-made reflow ovens and I've seen another youtuber using a 3rd-Party module to convert a toaster to a reflow-oven. In his video he had problems with the grill where the pcb's are sitting at. Do you encounter the same problems as him like bad reflow of the solderpaste where the rods of the grill are located? I'm really curious about that.
Greetings from Vienna
- Andreas
Spoiler alert, Workshop Found!: Femrite Drive, Madison, Wisconsin. Coordinates: 43.051208,-89.305277
You should look at the UDOO.
Can you tell me how you get a raspbery pic to pair with an oven
Great video. Thanks!
What programming software do you use?
Hi Ben,
Where can I find the code and any schematics used in this reflow oven project please?
I'm designing a homebrew reflow oven at the minute and I want to incorporate the best features of several designs I've seen on the internet including this one. By doing so I hope to eliminate any early teething issues by making use of tried and tested designs.
The oven I'm using has 4 standard elements. All wired up seperately. Because standard elements aren't as responsive as halogen or infrared, I plan to control these elements either independently or as banks of 2 to get finer control over the heating to stay closer to the profile - if that makes sense?
I'll also be including a rear mounted circulation and cooling fan into my design to help circulate the warm air during the reflow process and to aid with cooling at the end.
My coding skills are pretty weak due to lack of practice so my firmware will be an amalgamation of all the software from the designs I use - at least until I get my C foo back :)
Many thanks. Really enjoy your shows. They've inspired me no end :)
Tumbleweed hi ben, please send me all your hard work for free, then tell me how it works, ill take all the software you've developed, gerber files, schematics and extra components you have laying around, thanks. also, could you pay for shipping?? great, thanks
+Jeff Waterman A of people learn through code examples and reverse engineering projects like this. Taking a known working example, and tweaking it can be paramount for some when it comes to learning coding and electronics in general.
+Jeff Waterman he clearly is doing this project for fun and educational purposes, not like hes trying to sell the designs...
You actually don't need any of that craziness... We've baked 1000's of SMT boards in several different $10 toaster ovens from goodwill. You set to highest temp and wait till everything has flowed ~3-5min. Once completely flowed, kill oven, and open door to cool. DONE. It really is that simple.
I tried this in the toaster I bought for my reflow oven project, and in four trials, I got one successful reflow - and three melted PCBs.
I really would not recommend melting PCBs. It produces a really foul (and poisonous, no doubt) stench. It could be the toasters you tried don't produce as much heat, and therefore don't get close to burning the PCB material in the amount of time you have them running... But if you're getting whatever toaster you happen to find at the thrift shop, I'd be careful, run the thing with some good ventilation if nothing else.
Scope-Eye video
Well it's pretty important to turn off the oven and open the door as soon as all the paste has flowed. If it's hot enough to burn the PCB the solder should have flowed well over a min ago. I do recommend performing a few experiments to get the feel of it. I've burn boards as well, but only when forgetting to set a reminder alarm. It's really not that hard. FWIW I use leaded solder paste, not sure how lead free would perform in comparison. This routinely works for me with batches of six 10x10cm boards.
Yeah, I don't doubt you can get it right with practice - I just wanted to warn against "turn the oven on full blast and wait". :)
ben, is there a place you post the code for your projects?
We upload the code at www.element14.com/community/community/experts/benheck
Thanks for watching!
I love you Ben Heck!!
hi where can I buy these cheap ovens??
hmm, wonder if this could be used to reflow a PS3 or Xbox 360 board...yea, I know the oven would need to be bigger to accommodate for the size of the PS3/Xbox 360 boards
Ben you Rock! Great as all ways, cant wait! to get started..the code part was funny...software/hardware ugh! glad I married a software girl. Thank You!
so...how long was it until someone put a bagel in there? :P
hey Ben how do I drop 5v to 3v.? help please !
Plywood + oven. Great idea.
Is there a schematic and code for this?
Ben, you need one of those cheap Saleae clone logic analysers in your toolkit, you would have identified the issue in seconds!
someone's been watchin eevblog....
Where is the bagel profile?
Could you mod a pinball machine to be soundproof ?
at how many grades initiates to solder??
The Ben Heck Show Ben, I have watched your videos for inspiration since you started out, and this was one of the projects I recreated myself. Obviously I tried to not copy you, creating my own code and design, but I have a small request. I think many users on here, like me have more trouble with the code rather than the wiring and theory. If you could do more programming explanations or even a video with tips, that would be great. Keep up the good work.
I want to see Ben do his version of a Rube Goldberg machine!
Can u build an LCD screen on an xbox one controller to use it when you got to use the bathroom
What, you mean like what the Wii U does? Don't count on it... The Wii U's entire system design was built around being able to do that... I mean, I can hook up my tablet so it will show the desktop on my PC, but it runs at about 3fps, and there's a huge delay before the screen updates if it has to update the whole thing, and you'd go mad trying to play games that way. The Wii U needs all of the following to make it's wireless display streaming work:
1. High Bandwidth Wi-fi (It's a 5ghz dual band wi-fi stream, JUST for the screen. There is an entirely different wi-fi chip in the system to be able to connect to the internet as well.). - The range is also pretty low compared to generic wifi systems.
2. Low resolution display; (The screen is 720 by 480 aka 480p - And that's not just so they can use a cheap screen or lower powered GPU... It's hard to stream video with very low latency over a wireless connecion.)
3. Custom video encoding. - Most streaming video is not optimised in the slightest for gaming; You'd need to use something where the most important thing is latency.
In short, if you used a tablet PC as a base you might get partway there, but without a lot of pretty complex stuff, you couldn't just do this with an xbox controller and create a result you could actually play games with. Or even watch movies with... (You might be able to use the menus or browser over a system like that, but that's about all...)
if you had a ps4 and a psvita you wouldnt have this problem, lol
KuraIthys *shrug* there's no reason the video feed has to go over wi-fi. There are other ways to wirelessly transmit video from one room to another.
Scope-Eye video Ah... You do have a point there... But what kind of wireless, low-latency video streaming technologies exist that would be easy for a modder to implement? The 'low latency' stuff in particular is very challenging...
KuraIthys
I used to have this thing, it was made for people who wanted to share the picture from their cable box or VCR in multiple rooms. I expect it just took the video signal, modulated it with an RF carrier and transmitted it. Then there was a similar box on the other end that would receive the signal and convert it back to something the TV could handle (composite? Or re-modulated for channel 3?)
Though now that I actually bother to do a Google search or two - PS4 doesn't have a composite out, it only does HDMI apparently. So I guess that wouldn't work.
Wish there was source for your cool walkthrough :(
Ben can you make a portable game stick in a altoids tin skips me for more details at E.P.I.C surface
can i buy an home made re-flow oven from you Ben?
TV proximity sensor is not really needed since CRT TVs are no longer in the market.
You would be surprised how many still have perfectly working ones.
Now that non-CRT TVs are on the market on a fair price (this is not 2000) I wouldn't let my kid behind a CRT screen.
Using oven as reflow was only good if you are heating a particular target, without the other components within the board or else you will fry them along with the chip and will be destroyed
I know this project here is probably the low end of your genius mind, you're one smart cookie! I love having projects of all kinds, but people do Solder Reflows in a frying pan which sounds crazy to me, why can't you just use the oven as is with a high quality oven thermostat, keeping a trained eye on the project? Please don't get me wrong, I appreciate this project as well!
It's called a "thermocouple", Ben. Not a "thermal couple".
But they've already busted that myth, sitting close to the tv only apply to older box televisions.
14:05
I'm sure you can design a circuit to keep the kids a certain distance from the TV. But can you design a circuit to prevent adults from buying into an urban legend about how being close to a TV is somehow harmful?
Did you solder a crimp terminal!?!? BEN!!!!
how you doing that?
Question from a random person: What's happening with those little boards when he "cooking" them ?
The heat melts solder (paste) that's been applied to the board, soldering all the components down to the board at once.
Scope-Eye video
Sorry - watched it again but on a larger screen. Now I can see them melting.
So it's just faster than to do it one by one (using solder machine, or whatever it called in english don't really know).
I always thought it's danger to expose them (circuit boards) to high temperatures.
Sorry if my english is not so good. ;-)
Dear Ben please can you make a portable DVD player. GOOD LUCK
What about an small Steam PC in a old VCR Case
Why you have PC components on your CNC router??
And a PS4 later in the clip???
I never knew you can pick parts in a mini oven...
So the new guy's just gone...?
Awesome!
So Ben, i sense a PS4 Hack comming soon?
We should rename hacks to hecks XD
yes,like project on my page, this device working well
Love watching your hacks but I know your American but please put the l in soldering, sodering sounds very rude over here in the UK!
what the hell, not available for mobile devices
Hey Jose Saenz! Are you still having trouble watching this on mobile?
No it's ok now thanks, and sorry i didn't wanted to be rude
Ben can you make something with walkie talkie btw i love your videos
Try working with a Mindstorms EV3.
PS4 or Xbox one Laptop
My head hurts lol
Seconded good job keep it up Ben
***** It's been on element14 all day.
Why don't you make a record player?
for $199 - the new one
Does anyone else hear the constant beeping that's been in his videos recently?
I spy with my little eye, a PS4 box in the background :p
Can you make A Xbox one and a Xbox 360 together that will be awesome and it will let people play with their new system but also could play old games
I see a PS4 box in the background, can we expect a PS4 tear-down in the near future?
I originally built a similar one a while ago but have recently built a new version which improves on the design..
It incorporates more heat (4 elements instead of 2) but more importantly
1) a fan to move the air around inside which gives a much more even heating..
2) a solenoid to automatically open the door when it gets up to temperature
3) a heatsink for the SSR
4) a fan to keep the electronics cool
because it has a fan, there is no need for two thermocouples...
results are better than the original toaster oven
for version 3.0 have a look at this video XmSbU3uDNm4 and H4tSKgHLTck
oops I meant 8 elements instead of 2
Dang i do not get what baking a motherboad chip does for it....
It solders the chip down to the board.
When you're designing a circuit using surface-mount components, it's often possible to hand-solder it but the process can be difficult and time-consuming.
An easier way is to reflow the board: You apply solder paste to the solder pads on the board, put the components in place, and heat up the board until the solder paste melts. If you do it right, you can solder all the components onto the board (or multiple boards) all at once.
respected sir , could please make teach how to make a polargraph drawing machine, i am not a sciencestudent so i get a few queries , soplease make it a video which even a dummy could understand , and instead of an arduino processor can u find out a way to use my nexus 7 2012 , or any other android device for the project , please help
thanking you ,from india
buy a digital toaster oven and save all this trouble? For reflowing few boards, digital toaster oven does a great job - without any mods
LoL the description says thermal couples LMFAO! Allyson MUST HAVE goofed that thermo-couples business! RIP ALLYSON, you were replaced with sub- par guy! IT IS NOTICEABLE IN THE PRODUCTION QUALITY, THE NEW KID IS A NOOB!
no....if someone puts food in it you;ve fucked up. one, you dont want food anywhere near the flux and or lead residue building up over years. 2) to really follow a temp profile you should have added tons of insulation and heat tape over the window in the door
i really like your shows. My only complaint is that you're only giving us ideas, but your not giving any sort of 'how-to'. Its amusing to watch, but not very useful! it would be appreciated if there is a way to share the hardware/software of your projects so we can learn as well. Thanks.
I'm tempted to say first.
when are you going to be working on that ps4 in the back ground?
the only one who in the
12th
Cool I got first view yay
I watched this whole thing and learned virtually nothing. I did hear a lot of technobabble though but for someone like me who is new to this, none of this helped much. Sorry.
6th
First!
Time & Parts = $1000 later... you got a $200 appliance !
Lets get real.
A real electronics tech understands time&money .... throws that in the garbage, and buys the proper appliance.
Problem solved... and still see kids grow up.
IM 12TH :D