Mickey used to eat at Jack in the Box near San Clemente after his Trestle surfs. He'd come in and carefully read the menu, then order a hamburger, fries, and a small Jack Cola. He ordered the same way every time. I recognized him. I idolized him. But I never let him know I knew who he was.
“My whole life is this wave. I drop into it, set the whole thing up, pull up a bottom turn, pull up into it, and shoot for my life. Going for broke, man. And behind me, all the shit goes over my back. The screaming parents, teachers, police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers - they’re all going over the falls headfirst into the fuckin’ reef. And I’m shooting for my life. And when it starts to close out I pull out through the bottom out to the back, and I pick up another one and do the same goddamn thing.”
Hi Micky, I'll never forget the wink and a smile that day long ago.. with my cut off levis and that fucked up board that I hacked off and rode.. thanks for teaching me how to live brother.. My JoAnn is gone and I will be soon to follow.. hope to see you both on the other side.. love brother
thanks Mick...you were the original...one of a kind...absolute stand alone take no bullshit above it all could care less wave-rider...god put you here to ride waves...glad we caught your show...no one else ever like you.
"Miki took to his grave many stories that no one will ever know, but this book will also tell many and give new insight into his life. In the end only a select group knew the real person. I'm not sure I did -- but almost." -Kelly Slater, best-known surfer in the world
@lorduenon Great story, I respect Dora and know a little about him even though I know nothing about surfing. I'm a musician and I gave up everything for it ten years ago. It sounds like a clique now to say your following your dream. People who haven't done it do not know how hard it is. It's not just what you give up....
I got to see Dora when I was a kid surfing Malibu in the mid 60's. Many surfers came to "The Bu" and Dora always stood apart. His fluid style still stands apart in these films. But it was the lifestyle he perfected - following Tom Blake. Miki came from a very wealthy Montecito family. He was an elitist that went beyond "pro". He was among the last of the "great white hunters" of the nineteenth century like Alistair Crowley climbing K2. A relic pointing to the future - find your own island!!
Miki Dora. No one and I mean no one will ever know what a great talent and person he really was. Perhaps I would compare him to Bob Dylan. And I mean that in the most respectful way.
Ah, there's nothing like old men complaining about how f***d up the world is today, as if the present just manifested itself instantaneously, with no contribution from them. This is about as classic as Laird complaining about how crowded Jaws is now.
Mickey used to eat at Jack in the Box near San Clemente after his Trestle surfs. He'd come in and carefully read the menu, then order a hamburger, fries, and a small Jack Cola. He ordered the same way every time. I recognized him. I idolized him. But I never let him know I knew who he was.
Good story
He was a very cruel person
@@helloitsmehb to other people he was incredibly cool and gentle, specially with the kids.
@@fernandomaron87
I knew Miki very well. Once you saw his motivations you’d be hard pressed to think of him as anything but a simple thief.
“My whole life is this wave. I drop into it, set the whole thing up, pull up a bottom turn, pull up into it, and shoot for my life. Going for broke, man. And behind me, all the shit goes over my back. The screaming parents, teachers, police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers - they’re all going over the falls headfirst into the fuckin’ reef. And I’m shooting for my life. And when it starts to close out I pull out through the bottom out to the back, and I pick up another one and do the same goddamn thing.”
Best interview ever..
We know.
Yep. A selfish prick. What a life
Also here after listening the Anderson Paak Venice track “Miki Doralude” ? He made me discover this great athlete THX mr Paak
absolutely correct!
hopefully I too will be forging my own destiny soon... hitting the road, long term, solo. surf surf and surf.
Hi Micky, I'll never forget the wink and a smile that day long ago.. with my cut off levis and that fucked up board that I hacked off and rode.. thanks for teaching me how to live brother.. My JoAnn is gone and I will be soon to follow.. hope to see you both on the other side.. love brother
Are u still alive?
The guy was a dick. Are you too?
@@ricky7973 seems like no
He was terrible human being. Hope you didn’t end up like Miki
Miki the #asshole
thanks Mick...you were the original...one of a kind...absolute stand alone take no bullshit above it all could care less wave-rider...god put you here to ride waves...glad we caught your show...no one else ever like you.
outstanding words ! right on miki
"Miki took to his grave many stories
that no one will ever know, but this
book will also tell many and give
new insight into his life. In the end
only a select group knew the real
person. I'm not sure I did --
but almost."
-Kelly Slater, best-known surfer in
the world
It is my favorite book, and I must have read it a bunch of times. Thank you for creating it.
I prefer Andy Irons personally.
@@jeffdarnell7942yeah but irons comes after
@@jeffdarnell7942 Apples and oranges. Both are amazing in their own way
Miki was one cool cat 🤙🏼
Deep stuff he was saying- sadly compromised by the stupid music in the background.
We love you cat
@lorduenon Great story, I respect Dora and know a little about him even though I know nothing about surfing. I'm a musician and I gave up everything for it ten years ago. It sounds like a clique now to say your following your dream. People who haven't done it do not know how hard it is. It's not just what you give up....
Da Cat 🌊🐱
I got to see Dora when I was a kid surfing Malibu in the mid 60's. Many surfers came to "The Bu" and Dora always stood apart. His fluid style still stands apart in these films. But it was the lifestyle he perfected - following Tom Blake. Miki came from a very wealthy Montecito family. He was an elitist that went beyond "pro". He was among the last of the "great white hunters" of the nineteenth century like Alistair Crowley climbing K2. A relic pointing to the future - find your own island!!
clarkewi
19th?
always the Posers who spew forth crap like this trying to impress........... The Bu ? The Bu??? Really? ...... Pathetic
Miki Dora. No one and I mean no one will ever know what a great talent and person he really was. Perhaps I would compare him to Bob Dylan. And I mean that in the most respectful way.
He. Was a common thief
Massive racist too
@@helloitsmehb so what??
@@LittleBrother-t6n Because thieving racists are assholes and don’t deserve second thoughts.
@@LittleBrother-t6nhey if you’re into thieving racist pricks ..more power to you
it is from Surfer's the movie by Bill Delaney . the author
Hello! I'm an archive researcher and I'm trying to source this. Do you know where this is coming from ?
Thanks!
Love this guy
@friendsofbrookpark from SURFERS the MOVIE by Delaney
so many good surfers their hands and arms were out of sync. Mr. Dora's arms always moved gracefully in synch with the rest of his movement.
his skills were mediocre by todays standards
What is this from? Is there an extended version? Thanks!
The movie "surfers", great movie!
Nothing wrong with Miki Dora, just reacting to a world that got more insane by the day. That shit starts to rub off on you.
when was that interview filmed? mid 80s?
I believe 1989.
@@nevets1279 The movie Surfers
the individual is fucking finished! DORA
Year?
he was sure pretty to watch at Malibu
"lonely."
... they're all going head first into the reef..hahah
Not my rights
G
Ah, there's nothing like old men complaining about how f***d up the world is today, as if the present just manifested itself instantaneously, with no contribution from them.
This is about as classic as Laird complaining about how crowded Jaws is now.
Right tho init!
Total narcissist....his ol' timey 'California style' held back the shortboard revolution for years.
scooter boy lives!