Awesome! I met Greg Noll and Robert August in Tamarindo Costa Rica back in 1995. At the time Greg told me he loved Costa Rica because it reminded him of Hawaii back in the 50’s.
Love this! I'm so blessed to have an pristine 1964 Greg Noll. I rode it once before putting it away and it was awesome. These guys were and still are legends.
This is the film that inspired and challenged me as a young boy in the late 1950's to become a surfer... I bought my first surfboard from Greg Noll in Hermosa, Beach 1959-60. The rest is beautiful history!
Me and my bro had a Greg Noll board with inlaid red wood stringers in summer of 66 . We were real early on surfers on Long Island NY waves.Greg was the OG inspiration for surfers those days! Instilled " Go For It" into us gremmies....THANX GREG !!!!
this is art!!!!!....I know mr. Noll in Crescent city!!!!....fantastic person....good luck Mr. Noll! thank you for everything!.....you have changed the philosophy of surfing...RESPECT
I was introduced to Greg by Riding Giants. I love that movie and Greg was so great in it. As a kid from a college town in Western VA I never surfed a day in my life. That movie introduced me to that world and some of its greatest characters. RIP Greg.
I surfed Waimea In 1973 ; no leashes, jet skies or lifeguards ; that really added to the fear/ danger vibe. Now it's the crowds that are the major danger.
That is because you didnt surf it big enough to require them, else you wouldn't have surfed it. The jetskis are vital now to keep surfers from drowning. Going over with the lip and being stuck on the inside is a probable death sentence at most breaks when waves are "big" by today's standards. On big days there are no "crowds" outside of the worlds best. A good example is in this very video. They were "charging big waves" when a 20 foot swell was coming. Nowadays they don't even hold the Eddie Invitational at Waimea unless the reported swell is ATLEAST 60 feet, meaning there will be waves in the bay 70+. Guys survive because they condition themselves year round for such major hold downs and if they are lucky a jetski will manage to get them out of the inside before the next set. The "no leashes" thing really says it all. There is no holding onto your board in big waves. If you didnt have a leash you would have to go to the beach to find your smashed board before you even caught a wave.
I grew up with Greg's grandchildren, Rhyn's children. Great kids. They kept the culture alive in our small, Northern California town of nothing. I'll never forget rallying friends for their families surfing competitions, and I never knew until I was an adult just how big their family was in this industry. Truly, awesomely genuine people. Rest easy, Greg.
The first time I rode the Bay I was shaking and wondering what am I doing. I trained for that moment for 14 years. I was 20 and the year was 1978 and the Bay was 20-25 feet. I returned to town and got in my lifeguard tower on Waikiki and watched the sun go down knowing that I am a waterman.
James Jones Im from Ohio and cant get enough of this stuff. These guys had huge cajones to explore that wave. Hats off to you also. Surfing has always been and will continue to be the coolest sport. Ive never surfed but when I skateboarded we tried to look like surfers.
Hi James. I remember, when I was a kid, reading about your exploits at The Bay, trying to be the first to tube ride a twenty footer. I remember you as one of the most rock solid big wave surfers of your time. And you eventually became the first surfer to ride the barrel on twenty five plus! That's man size balls, and you've got them. Our hats off to you mate.
RIP Greg Noll. That crew of surfers inspired me to take up surfing in the late 60's and live that lifestyle. My all time favorite board was one shaped by Mickey Munoz of whom I had the pleasure of meeting and even being in the water with. Historical surfing giants.
Greg, the biggest balls in surf history. So many big waves conquered. His backhand ride at 3rd reef Pipeline is simply legendary. Rest in Peace Da Bull
My first board was a Greg Noll 9' 4" 3 stringer with a square fin. I was 15. !962. Bought it at his shop in Hermosa Beach. I was proud as hell of that board. Broke the nose off at Dana Point. My friend glassed a balsa wood nose on it.
I was 6 years old back in 64 and we live in Peal City, one Sat, morning my dad got me up and had me ride with him to get some pineapple at the Dole Planation, then he ask me if I wanted to see some big waves! We went to the Bay and park at the church and walk across the road onto the rocks on the point, my dad told me the waves where 40ft , saw a guy with black and white shorts make 6 rides in a hour! I was in my teens when I was into surfing in North Carolina that I found out who that guys was ! RIP Greg
Even in the 70s they were pretty regular guys. Jeff Hakman gave us kids an unglassed kneeboard blank and many waves were ridden, itchily, on it. Then there was a guy named "Owl (he didn't like to be called Owl)" Chapman.
My first experience surfing was at Waimea ... it was wonderful! Of course it was on the shore break after the river had been drained so it made a nice little 1-2 ft. break. At the time I lived in Pupukea up the road the heiau's on, and it was using a borrowed surfboard. We had a bunch of those surfers living all around there.
That's coming from James Jones, one of the greatest surfers to ever live. Pioneer big wave surfboard designer/shaper, pioneer of huge big wave high performance. James didn't just take off and stand there, he was one of the first ones to take command of the entire surf spot and each wave he caught, whether there were others out there or not, and do deep carves in the pit and get deeply barreled at Waimea, where others were frozen stiff and running for their lives. Sometimes at Waimea or Pipeline, he would sit patiently for hours in a place where no one else was sitting, and then all of a sudden out of nowhere, here comes the wave of the day, and James isn't just on it, he is as far out as you could possibly catch it, reads it like a master, holds a perfect line in the deepest part of the wave in every section, and rides it as far as you could ride it. Definatley a stand out anywhere he surfed. A true icon of a Hawaiian Surfing Legend for many many decades at all the best spots on Oahu and the outer islands, on all the best swells. Whenever I was lucky enough to catch a classic swell going off and I saw James Jones in his car studying the waves I knew I was on the right track.
I often think of Dickey Cross often when I am in the water, and his family, I don't much about him/his background but no doubt he was a charger; I wish we could get a little more background on the "man"/kid who did not come home...
Back when Waimea, north shore, pipeline were absolutely MASSIVE!! Now these days it’s still pretty frickin massive and you can still die out there but back then, MAN I wish I could’ve at least seen it in it’s prime!!! And feel that fear and the rush the adrenaline!!! It’s waves like this that make u realize, “this is gonna kill me before any shark can get close to me” I wanna feel that man!!!
Greg Noll, Mike Stang, Pat Curren, Mickey Munoz....and the other guys that names that are in legend of books....Lead the way....for crying out loud...look at the equipment...No surf reports..the final fronteir....yeah they paved it...to say the least and we owe them for years to come.🌊🌊🌊🌊👍👍🤙🤙👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😎😏💥💥
Scott James... At first, it was always incorrectly pronounced why-uh-mea. It wasn't until recently, about the last fifteen years or so ago, that everyone finally started to pronounce it correctly - why-mea. That's why you'll hear in older surf movies and the older surfers mispronouncing of The Bay's name that way. Same with Haleiwa, everyone pronounced it with a W instead of a V.
Native speakers of Hawaiian language always pronounce(d) it correctly: Wai + mea. "Wai" means water, "mea" means reddish brown (the color of Hawaiian soil/dirt). The name is from the stream water ("wai"), often brown ("mea") due to rain washing dirt into the stream. The "why-uh-mea" pronunciation came simply from ignorance of the Wai-mea pronunciation, and maybe confusion based on the name of nearby Wai-a-lua.
W and V are in free variation in Hawaiian language. In other words, they are one-and-the-same sound. You say WAI, it means "water". You say VAI, it means "water". No difference. Also, Haleʻiwa or Haleʻiva, same thing, no difference. Technically, [ w ] and [ v ] are allophones of the Hawaiian phoneme / w /. This is similar in some other languages also, like Hindi/Urdu. W/V is seen in some cognates, like English "Water", German "Wasser" [ Vasser ].
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Awesome! I met Greg Noll and Robert August in Tamarindo Costa Rica back in 1995. At the time Greg told me he loved Costa Rica because it reminded him of Hawaii back in the 50’s.
RIP Greg. Now you can surf the biggest wave in afterlife!
RIP
Big dude woke up Waimea this year for the Eddie.
when "Rumbler" starts, all hairs on my arms are going up. Amazing video
This is from riding giants.
Link Wreys rumble is a great track. One of jimmy pages favourites.
Love this! I'm so blessed to have an pristine 1964 Greg Noll. I rode it once before putting it away and it was awesome. These guys were and still are legends.
This is the film that inspired and challenged me as a young boy in the late 1950's to become a surfer... I bought my first surfboard from Greg Noll in Hermosa, Beach 1959-60. The rest is beautiful history!
Whatever gets someone in the water is fortune.
Steve Sparks this film didn't come out till the 2004..... ??? How can it inspire you in the 50s...😐?
Steve Sparks I grew up in Hermosa Beach and remember his shop at Pacific coast Hwy and pier ave. The good day.
😮
🙋👍👊🙏
Me and my bro had a Greg Noll board with inlaid red wood stringers in summer of 66 . We were real early on surfers on Long Island NY waves.Greg was the OG inspiration for surfers those days! Instilled " Go For It" into us gremmies....THANX GREG !!!!
this is art!!!!!....I know mr. Noll in Crescent city!!!!....fantastic person....good luck Mr. Noll! thank you for everything!.....you have changed the philosophy of surfing...RESPECT
Hello from Gasquet!
I was introduced to Greg by Riding Giants. I love that movie and Greg was so great in it. As a kid from a college town in Western VA I never surfed a day in my life. That movie introduced me to that world and some of its greatest characters. RIP Greg.
I surfed Waimea In 1973 ; no leashes, jet skies or lifeguards ; that really added to the fear/ danger vibe. Now it's the crowds that are the major danger.
I might have watched you, l was there in the late 60s, early 70s, but never aquired the skills for the big waves. But l had fun, what an era.
That is because you didnt surf it big enough to require them, else you wouldn't have surfed it. The jetskis are vital now to keep surfers from drowning. Going over with the lip and being stuck on the inside is a probable death sentence at most breaks when waves are "big" by today's standards. On big days there are no "crowds" outside of the worlds best. A good example is in this very video. They were "charging big waves" when a 20 foot swell was coming. Nowadays they don't even hold the Eddie Invitational at Waimea unless the reported swell is ATLEAST 60 feet, meaning there will be waves in the bay 70+. Guys survive because they condition themselves year round for such major hold downs and if they are lucky a jetski will manage to get them out of the inside before the next set. The "no leashes" thing really says it all. There is no holding onto your board in big waves. If you didnt have a leash you would have to go to the beach to find your smashed board before you even caught a wave.
I grew up with Greg's grandchildren, Rhyn's children. Great kids. They kept the culture alive in our small, Northern California town of nothing. I'll never forget rallying friends for their families surfing competitions, and I never knew until I was an adult just how big their family was in this industry. Truly, awesomely genuine people. Rest easy, Greg.
The possibility of one of those logs coming over the falls at a guy seems scarier than sharks.
5 years later...lol
I loved this movie. Must have watched it 50 times.
The first time I rode the Bay I was shaking and wondering what am I doing. I trained for that moment for 14 years. I was 20 and the year was 1978 and the Bay was 20-25 feet. I returned to town and got in my lifeguard tower on Waikiki and watched the sun go down knowing that I am a waterman.
James Jones love ya self much...?
James Jones Im from Ohio and cant get enough of this stuff. These guys had huge cajones to explore that wave. Hats off to you also. Surfing has always been and will continue to be the coolest sport. Ive never surfed but when I skateboarded we tried to look like surfers.
Hi James. I remember, when I was a kid, reading about your exploits at The Bay, trying to be the first to tube ride a twenty footer. I remember you as one of the most rock solid big wave surfers of your time. And you eventually became the first surfer to ride the barrel on twenty five plus! That's man size balls, and you've got them. Our hats off to you mate.
You truly are a water main and a great person. I remember reading about you in the 80s in the surf mag's .
James Jones legendary
RIP Greg Noll. That crew of surfers inspired me to take up surfing in the late 60's and live that lifestyle. My all time favorite board was one shaped by Mickey Munoz of whom I had the pleasure of meeting and even being in the water with. Historical surfing giants.
Greg, the biggest balls in surf history. So many big waves conquered. His backhand ride at 3rd reef Pipeline is simply legendary. Rest in Peace Da Bull
You would only say that if you didn't know Woody Brown or Pat Curren. I knew tham.
Historic and best music evah! Dah Bull signed my fin. In Canada of all places!
Rest in peace Pat Curren. To die on the day of the Eddie shows that the world is in tune with those who chose to be one with it. Adios Amigo-
My first board was a Greg Noll 9' 4" 3 stringer with a square fin. I was 15. !962. Bought it at his shop in Hermosa Beach. I was proud as hell of that board. Broke the nose off at Dana Point. My friend glassed a balsa wood nose on it.
Surf in Peace, Legend Greg hopefully reunited with ya Gal, Waimea Bay !!
Cool guy. I remember seeing him in Surfer magazine in the 1960s.
So good!!! Bring it back!!! :0)
Very brave adventurers…..thank you for your commitment and courage.
No leashes... enough said.
Charlie Cornwell if they wiped out they had to swim back and get them, then paddle back out.
Thankyou
I was 6 years old back in 64 and we live in
Peal City, one Sat, morning my dad got me up and had me ride with him to get some pineapple at the Dole Planation, then he ask me if I wanted to see some big waves! We went to the Bay and park at the church and walk across the road onto the rocks on the point, my dad told me the waves where 40ft , saw a guy with black and white shorts make 6 rides in a hour! I was in my teens when I was into surfing in North Carolina that I found out who that guys was ! RIP Greg
Riding Giants by giants.
Greg you have fans you never know you had.
the best movie ever
Such a great story. From back when surfers were regular guys....
Even in the 70s they were pretty regular guys. Jeff Hakman gave us kids an unglassed kneeboard blank and many waves were ridden, itchily, on it. Then there was a guy named "Owl (he didn't like to be called Owl)" Chapman.
Legends,
Neste ano, dependendo o mês, eu estava nascendo, wameia Bay, long time
Foi em novembro esse dia épico que eles pegaram
Great Video, I am sorry to hear about surfers that never come back though. Outrageous Waves.
My first experience surfing was at Waimea ... it was wonderful! Of course it was on the shore break after the river had been drained so it made a nice little 1-2 ft. break. At the time I lived in Pupukea up the road the heiau's on, and it was using a borrowed surfboard. We had a bunch of those surfers living all around there.
Old School...love it!
Bought my first surfboard from Greg Noll in 1960. George in Montana
That's coming from James Jones, one of the greatest surfers to ever live. Pioneer big wave surfboard designer/shaper, pioneer of huge big wave high performance. James didn't just take off and stand there, he was one of the first ones to take command of the entire surf spot and each wave he caught, whether there were others out there or not, and do deep carves in the pit and get deeply barreled at Waimea, where others were frozen stiff and running for their lives. Sometimes at Waimea or Pipeline, he would sit patiently for hours in a place where no one else was sitting, and then all of a sudden out of nowhere, here comes the wave of the day, and James isn't just on it, he is as far out as you could possibly catch it, reads it like a master, holds a perfect line in the deepest part of the wave in every section, and rides it as far as you could ride it. Definatley a stand out anywhere he surfed. A true icon of a Hawaiian Surfing Legend for many many decades at all the best spots on Oahu and the outer islands, on all the best swells. Whenever I was lucky enough to catch a classic swell going off and I saw James Jones in his car studying the waves I knew I was on the right track.
Absolute legends.
Greg ----> Legend
Greg ' Da Bull ' Noll....Shine on. Longboards rule
RIP Greg!🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Like wish RIP
Likewise *
Real history and real good guys.
These big days are no joke!
I often think of Dickey Cross often when I am in the water, and his family, I don't much about him/his background but no doubt he was a charger; I wish we could get a little more background on the "man"/kid who did not come home...
First board I ever owned was a 6'8" Noll Spear...
What year?
Best documentary ever.. Stacey killed it pipe masters is a good one too
I sat on the beach talking with Mickey Munoz for about 2 hours. He was quite the gentleman.
Awesome !
The first song is "Glass Off" by Bangkok Starters
Fantastic !
amazing
Riding Giants = Best movie ever.
When it came to the Space Race - These were top Astronaut prospects.
RIP greg, it was long journey.
Who is here because Greg Noll just died? RIP
Rip to this great great man!
Buen Viaje grandote.
Gladiators!!
Back when Waimea, north shore, pipeline were absolutely MASSIVE!! Now these days it’s still pretty frickin massive and you can still die out there but back then, MAN I wish I could’ve at least seen it in it’s prime!!! And feel that fear and the rush the adrenaline!!! It’s waves like this that make u realize, “this is gonna kill me before any shark can get close to me” I wanna feel that man!!!
Jewel.
imagine doing riding these waves on a single fin surfboard LOl .. these guys were mental
RIP Noll
Legends Neva Die.
Jeeesh, now you can walk across all the boards out there these days and not get wet!
Noll is a Badass
Shea, so do I brother!!! So do I!!!!
RIP to Da Bull
Now surfers are riding Nazare. Big difference though, there were no jetskis to rescue these guys or leashes for boards.
Can someone please tell me the name of this movie
Did Polynesians not ride 20'+ waves or was it really groundbreaking for the time?
🙏
holo nalu a mau loa me ka maluhia ❤🤙
Surf forever in peace.
Aloha nui loa.
Mahalo
RIP
Greg Noll, Mike Stang, Pat Curren, Mickey Munoz....and the other guys that names that are in legend of books....Lead the way....for crying out loud...look at the equipment...No surf reports..the final fronteir....yeah they paved it...to say the least and we owe them for years to come.🌊🌊🌊🌊👍👍🤙🤙👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😎😏💥💥
R.I.P. DA BULL!
They didn't mention anything about Buzzy Trent. Shame...
If you watch the full movie he's very much featured
You did recognize Mr Hahn's mix right? :D
I wonder how these guys were able to walk. With 10lb cast iron balls!
Gotta love Pat Curren aka Mr. Understatement
I wonder how long it took to paddle out on hose huge beach break days. Where are the jet skis and flotation vests?
I saw Greg's high priced art at mckibben art museum in Corona del Mar
Pioneers☯️🌈☯️♥️♥️
Doing that with the support of Jet Ski is pretty full-on, but pulling yourself into waves like that - that is batshit crazy...
Aloha Brother!
This is from Riding Giants
Anyone know the name of the music starting around 21 seconds?
เป็น10ปีแล้ว
song?
Some people say that Harry Schurch was out surfing Waimea earlier the same day.
wooden boards no leash incredible
epic
ยังหาด
1957 is the year I started surfing in Sunset Beach
Jeez. I was 4 splashing around at Ala Moana.
Why is there a yellow clam in the shot? Ruined the post
so glad i moved to north shore from malibu. i have a whole new life now. and its awesome
"The safer... deep water... Waimea Bay..." "Safer." BALLS!
Rip bull... What's the first zik????
of course even the documentary got it wrong. its why-mea. not why-uh-mea... don't know where that pronunciation came from.
Scott James... At first, it was always incorrectly pronounced why-uh-mea. It wasn't until recently, about the last fifteen years or so ago, that everyone finally started to pronounce it correctly - why-mea. That's why you'll hear in older surf movies and the older surfers mispronouncing of The Bay's name that way. Same with Haleiwa, everyone pronounced it with a W instead of a V.
Native speakers of Hawaiian language always pronounce(d) it correctly: Wai + mea. "Wai" means water, "mea" means reddish brown (the color of Hawaiian soil/dirt). The name is from the stream water ("wai"), often brown ("mea") due to rain washing dirt into the stream. The "why-uh-mea" pronunciation came simply from ignorance of the Wai-mea pronunciation, and maybe confusion based on the name of nearby Wai-a-lua.
W and V are in free variation in Hawaiian language. In other words, they are one-and-the-same sound. You say WAI, it means "water". You say VAI, it means "water". No difference. Also, Haleʻiwa or Haleʻiva, same thing, no difference. Technically, [ w ] and [ v ] are allophones of the Hawaiian phoneme / w /. This is similar in some other languages also, like Hindi/Urdu. W/V is seen in some cognates, like English "Water", German "Wasser" [ Vasser ].
JOKE ---> In Waikiki, a tourist asked a man: "Is it HaWaii? Or HaVaii?"
The man: "HaVaii."
The tourist: "Thank you."
The man: "You're Velcome."
Great big z
Fuckin soooooo sick
Greg knoll*
The wedge was unsurfable til the 80s - then Christian Fletcher showed them how 🌊
When did you hear led zeppelin?