For taking out the points I find it simpler to place the arrows in a mug and pour in boiling water. Give it a few seconds and the point should slide out using a pillars as demoed in the video.
Easy peasy indeed. Using same glue and procedure. One word of caution however, if it's a carbon only shaft (I use the Easton Carbon One) it's important not to get the shaft heated. The resin in the pure carbon shafts is likely to suffer and as such also the entire shaft itself. Just heat the point enough for the glue to stay fluid, so you don't have to heat during insertion and immediately upon insertion, stick the point/shaft end into a cold glass of water and let it cool off for a some seconds. This will also make it easier to remove the excess glue, as José points out. It slides off over the tip almost like small rubber bands. Thanks for the tip and always enlightening videos :) EDIT: Didn't unfold José's comment and read to the end, which I should have done, as he gives the exact same warning. Sorry for the redundancy :) Still enjoy your videos though ;)
Hi, I've watched and enjoied your videos, others just make me laugh. I've been in archery since 2005 and been learning how to do my own stuff. I would recomend that you leave the point to cool down before removing the excess glue, this way the glue is removed cleanly instead of spreading ot around the shaft. Also for the guy of the glued inserts it is better to screw in the point and hear the point and thus the insert, NEVER apply direct fire to a carbon shaft, it will distroy it. A good way to notice the correct amount of heat for removing the point is to pinch the arrow as near to the point's shank and feel the heat building up, it is when you start noticing the heat that the point can be removed without overheating, and dammaging the shaft, especially with carbon arrows. Greetings from mexico.
Removing a point with a candle can damage the carbon. I prefer to boil water and put the arrow in it. It can take more than using a candle but it is better. Sorry for my English but I'm Italian.
I would expect this was the method used for a very long time, all that would change is the glue. Thermal glues have been around for thousands of years.
i am thinking of making my own hunting heads but i need to know the most common size eg- thickness of the head shaft-i will be casting alloy or brass ones-any thoughts would be great tyia
My arrow heads screw into inserts , I am unable to screw the head off of the insert, does removing the entire insert make it easier for the head to screw off?
Ugh I wish I saw this video before I put my arrows together. I've seen quite a few other videos that talk about using epoxy or goat tough, and it was a pretty stressful process because I was told if you screw up the glue job you can get the inserts stuck in there incorrectly. I had no idea about using glue melt to apply and even remove the inserts if I need to. Seems like a better way.
Soo i just cut my arrow cuz the shaft near the point is kind of widen like a flower, then after i inserted my point but it didnt work, like theres a divider inside my arrow? What do i do to fix this? I cut musen spine 700 carbon , i cut like only 1cm from the start point of the shaft ( near the points)
Hey nu sensei Last week ı was in the archery training and there was a fast wind and of course ı missed a shot than ı realize the arrow that ı missed the tip of the arrow is about an cm out t try to put it inside by heating it but ı failed what is your suggestions
+NUSensei First one I ever did I superheated the point and when I glued it up and slid it into the shaft the extreme heat cracked the shaft. So right, heat the glue and apply to the unheated point. Gotta move a bit quicker but it's much more shaft friendly.
I have field that out outserts and I need to attach it to a carbon shaft. Can I use any standard mult purpose hot met glue? How should I attach it to the shaft since it's a outsert?
I've tried heating my tips and no way does it come out as easy as your did. In fact I've given up on it. I need to break off some sections but it's just to tough to remove
No they don't. That's simply not factual. A 40# recurve at 150 fps yields only 20 ft-lbs of kinetic energy, and 27 at 175 fps. A compound at 300 fps yields 80 ft-lbs. A standard .22lr is going to be 800-200 fps and carries 115-120 ft-lbs of energy. A 9mm is over 380 ft-lbs. Arrows also do not expand and have very poor transfer of kinetic energy to the target, while bullets have exceptional energy transfer through their terminal ballistics as they flatten and spread. That is going to have a huge effect on
I wish it worked that easy for me. Recently I tried to remove an insert from an aluminium arrow. (Screw-in point.) It doesn't seem like hot-melt was used. Any tips on removing glued-in inserts? Acetone maybe?
I remove inserts the same way. You will have to heat the shaft where the insert is so that the glue sufficiently melts. Some glues are much harder to work with than others, but with enough heat most glues will break down.
NUSensei You were correct. After a lighter, then boiling water didn't work, I tried a propane torch! When the glue gets hot enough, or maybe hot for long enough, it will break down. The residue cleaned off easily using acetone. In this case I way over did it. Discoloued the end of the shaft and inhaled some chemical fumes. I plan to cut 1/2" to 1" off the shaft anyway, and it seems dimensionally intact. (Don't try this with carbon shafts! haha)
I see you use the blue glue stick...is it any better than the gold glue stick by the same manufacturer? Also what is the name of the tips used in your video...l'm only aware of the tips that use inserts. As always another very informative video thanks for posting.
It's no substitute for practising with real arrows. They're OK if you feel like you need to practise the full shot process and shoot an arrow safely indoors, but they're completely different to your regular arrows. I'd rather use a stretching band or a shot trainer.
thanks man, are you going to do a full series of DYI arrow making, do you find it alot cheaper/better quality than buying bulk cheap arrows from china? any particular brands you suggest? -Also I recently got a 70lb recurve, and it keeps destroying my arrows, can u suggest some more durable arrows?
Arrows you buy in bulk are of mediocre quality and aren't properly tuned to your bow and will rarely fly straight. NUSensei's arrows are perfectly matched to his draw weight and draw length. I don't believe there is a single arrow in the world that can withstand being shot from a 70lb recurve at a rock, shed or wooden frame.
I've probably lost one or two points, but it's often because of not putting on enough glue. Though some points have loosened, I haven't lost a point since I did this batch of arrows, and that was months ago.
I'm confused. I know this vid is old, but I have field tips that screw into arrow shafts. They don't stay screwed in and come loose after shooting; so every time I collect an arrow, I have to make sure the tip is screwed in... 25% of the time it's loose. What am I doing wrong?
That's normal for screw-ins. They will rattle loose between shots. If you're not intending on replacing them frequently, melting a bit of wax on the points can help keep them in.
NUSensei well I have field tip arrows that aren't reatachable so I was thinking that I could take a field tip out and put in a broadhead with a hot melt.
Slightly adjacent to the topic in hand, but be careful with tea lights... They get real hot underneath and can damage surfaces or start fires if not on a relevant material...
For taking out the points I find it simpler to place the arrows in a mug and pour in boiling water. Give it a few seconds and the point should slide out using a pillars as demoed in the video.
Easy peasy indeed. Using same glue and procedure.
One word of caution however, if it's a carbon only shaft (I use the Easton Carbon One) it's important not to get the shaft heated. The resin in the pure carbon shafts is likely to suffer and as such also the entire shaft itself. Just heat the point enough for the glue to stay fluid, so you don't have to heat during insertion and immediately upon insertion, stick the point/shaft end into a cold glass of water and let it cool off for a some seconds. This will also make it easier to remove the excess glue, as José points out. It slides off over the tip almost like small rubber bands.
Thanks for the tip and always enlightening videos :)
EDIT: Didn't unfold José's comment and read to the end, which I should have done, as he gives the exact same warning. Sorry for the redundancy :)
Still enjoy your videos though ;)
Perfect. This was just what I was looking for. Just attached two new points in a couple of minutes following your advice here. Thanks.
Thank you, Nusensei. You are quick and concise. Thanks for another great video!
Hi, I've watched and enjoied your videos, others just make me laugh. I've been in archery since 2005 and been learning how to do my own stuff. I would recomend that you leave the point to cool down before removing the excess glue, this way the glue is removed cleanly instead of spreading ot around the shaft. Also for the guy of the glued inserts it is better to screw in the point and hear the point and thus the insert, NEVER apply direct fire to a carbon shaft, it will distroy it. A good way to notice the correct amount of heat for removing the point is to pinch the arrow as near to the point's shank and feel the heat building up, it is when you start noticing the heat that the point can be removed without overheating, and dammaging the shaft, especially with carbon arrows. Greetings from mexico.
Best regards
Removing a point with a candle can damage the carbon. I prefer to boil water and put the arrow in it. It can take more than using a candle but it is better.
Sorry for my English but I'm Italian.
I would expect this was the method used for a very long time, all that would change is the glue. Thermal glues have been around for thousands of years.
A block of what??? I re-watched it 5 times and cannot figure it out...
Hotmelt (glue).
Tks soooo much Man... 🏹
i am thinking of making my own hunting heads but i need to know the most common size eg- thickness of the head shaft-i will be casting alloy or brass ones-any thoughts would be great tyia
My arrow heads screw into inserts , I am unable to screw the head off of the insert, does removing the entire insert make it easier for the head to screw off?
Wow thanks sensei you're awesome.
Ugh I wish I saw this video before I put my arrows together. I've seen quite a few other videos that talk about using epoxy or goat tough, and it was a pretty stressful process because I was told if you screw up the glue job you can get the inserts stuck in there incorrectly.
I had no idea about using glue melt to apply and even remove the inserts if I need to. Seems like a better way.
Thanks for the help
Soo i just cut my arrow cuz the shaft near the point is kind of widen like a flower, then after i inserted my point but it didnt work, like theres a divider inside my arrow? What do i do to fix this? I cut musen spine 700 carbon , i cut like only 1cm from the start point of the shaft ( near the points)
Hey nu sensei
Last week ı was in the archery training and there was a fast wind and of course ı missed a shot than ı realize the arrow that ı missed the tip of the arrow is about an cm out t try to put it inside by heating it but ı failed what is your suggestions
Apply more heat and push it hard against a surface. Many shops use a different kind of glue that has a much higher melting point than hot-melt sticks.
what is name of the glue???
How do the Victory break off points work?
Sir my point becomes black when i heated it please tell me that it creates problem or not
Points are universal size?
***** I'd apply the heat directly onto to glue, then smear it onto the shaft and put the point before the glue cools.
+NUSensei First one I ever did I superheated the point and when I glued it up and slid it into the shaft the extreme heat cracked the shaft. So right, heat the glue and apply to the unheated point. Gotta move a bit quicker but it's much more shaft friendly.
I have field that out outserts and I need to attach it to a carbon shaft. Can I use any standard mult purpose hot met glue? How should I attach it to the shaft since it's a outsert?
Problem i have is them coming out, they just fall off. This helps alot.. thank you
I've tried heating my tips and no way does it come out as easy as your did. In fact I've given up on it. I need to break off some sections but it's just to tough to remove
Can you use the same method with wooden shafts
So if someone with a gun was in your house and you had a bow and a gun what would you take
Depends which is close lol, but an arrow packs a lot more punch tbh.
No they don't. That's simply not factual.
A 40# recurve at 150 fps yields only 20 ft-lbs of kinetic energy, and 27 at 175 fps.
A compound at 300 fps yields 80 ft-lbs.
A standard .22lr is going to be 800-200 fps and carries 115-120 ft-lbs of energy.
A 9mm is over 380 ft-lbs.
Arrows also do not expand and have very poor transfer of kinetic energy to the target, while bullets have exceptional energy transfer through their terminal ballistics as they flatten and spread. That is going to have a huge effect on
Are you using complete carbon arrows?
I wish it worked that easy for me. Recently I tried to remove an insert from an aluminium arrow. (Screw-in point.) It doesn't seem like hot-melt was used. Any tips on removing glued-in inserts? Acetone maybe?
I remove inserts the same way. You will have to heat the shaft where the insert is so that the glue sufficiently melts. Some glues are much harder to work with than others, but with enough heat most glues will break down.
NUSensei
You were correct. After a lighter, then boiling water didn't work, I tried a propane torch! When the glue gets hot enough, or maybe hot for long enough, it will break down. The residue cleaned off easily using acetone. In this case I way over did it. Discoloued the end of the shaft and inhaled some chemical fumes. I plan to cut 1/2" to 1" off the shaft anyway, and it seems dimensionally intact.
(Don't try this with carbon shafts! haha)
I see you use the blue glue stick...is it any better than the gold glue stick by the same manufacturer?
Also what is the name of the tips used in your video...l'm only aware of the tips that use inserts.
As always another very informative video thanks for posting.
The blue stick has a lower melting point than the gold stick, so it's easier to use. The tips are Easton A/C/E break-off points.
NUSensei Thank you.
Hey man what do you think about practicing with buffer arrows?
It's no substitute for practising with real arrows. They're OK if you feel like you need to practise the full shot process and shoot an arrow safely indoors, but they're completely different to your regular arrows. I'd rather use a stretching band or a shot trainer.
thanks man, are you going to do a full series of DYI arrow making, do you find it alot cheaper/better quality than buying bulk cheap arrows from china? any particular brands you suggest?
-Also I recently got a 70lb recurve, and it keeps destroying my arrows, can u suggest some more durable arrows?
Arrows you buy in bulk are of mediocre quality and aren't properly tuned to your bow and will rarely fly straight. NUSensei's arrows are perfectly matched to his draw weight and draw length. I don't believe there is a single arrow in the world that can withstand being shot from a 70lb recurve at a rock, shed or wooden frame.
thx. but their being wrecked by hitting carpeted hay >…> what brand/material can you suggest?
What kind of arrows are you using now, and what kind of damage is happening to your arrows?
And the guy asking never replies
by using this glue has anyone lost their point in a normal target? I.E. hay bales, foam targets, carpet?
I've probably lost one or two points, but it's often because of not putting on enough glue. Though some points have loosened, I haven't lost a point since I did this batch of arrows, and that was months ago.
Hi In some of your videos you say you go with Abby archery I go throw Abby archery I find them great do you 😄
I'm confused. I know this vid is old, but I have field tips that screw into arrow shafts. They don't stay screwed in and come loose after shooting; so every time I collect an arrow, I have to make sure the tip is screwed in... 25% of the time it's loose. What am I doing wrong?
That's normal for screw-ins. They will rattle loose between shots. If you're not intending on replacing them frequently, melting a bit of wax on the points can help keep them in.
can you do the same with broadheads?
Broadheads are usually screwed on and can be screwed off.
NUSensei well I have field tip arrows that aren't reatachable so I was thinking that I could take a field tip out and put in a broadhead with a hot melt.
My point arrow going deep, i can't pull out that point..
Thanks, I bought some used arrows and my tips came out :'(
Bond-it glue
The project like this step by step is described on the Stodoys website and many more plans you can find on that website.
Its said he still hasn't cut his fingernails till this day
Slightly adjacent to the topic in hand, but be careful with tea lights... They get real hot underneath and can damage surfaces or start fires if not on a relevant material...