NEED HELP WITH BRIGGS ENGINE WIRING
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2014
- Swapping an 17.5 intek Briggs Engine from a Troy Bilt To A John Deere...Have 2 different harness hook ups to engine and am NOT sure how they should go. Any Help would be Greatly appreciated. Thanks Guys, Book 'Em DanO'
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The engine you took off has a 9 amp regulated charging system... the square box is the regulator/rectifier.
The engine you put on has a 3 amp unregulated system with an AC lead for lights.
In both cases the red wire is your DC charging wire. On your replacement engine the white or yellow wire After the white plug/connection is your lighting circuit.
Those are the wires coming out Behind the starter.... The ones coming from in front of it are as you said, a kill wire & the wire for the solenoid on the carb.
Very Good...so basically everything but the black kill wire need Juice Full Time? Is that correct?
MrDanoconnor
Not full time...
The wire going to the solenoid on the carb needs switched power on with the ignition in Start & Run.
The Red charging wire is hot full time... it either runs back to the battery side of the starter solenoid or thru the key switch on the B terminal. There is usually a fuse inline.
The white charging wire is AC current for the lights, it cannot go to the battery... it usually runs thru a switch and then to the lights.
*****
So, if I understand, you are talking about the wires on the engine...then all I have to do is use a test light to see what the 4 wires on that Harness do with the key on...juice, no juice, ground, and hook them up as you said. Right?
MrDanoconnor
You've got it.
The kill wire will be grounded with the ignition off... and will not make ground with the ignition in the on or start position.
The solenoid on the carb needs to receive power in On and Start.
The charging wire may have power full time, or it may be switched with the On position... that depends on how the mower is wired.
*****
Thanks Buddy, I hope to finish it up tomorrow and thanks to your Genius will be posting the finished project & a Running Tractor.
That module is a bridge rectifier / voltage regulator. It converts AC from the alternator to DC and then regulates the voltage.
The square box on bad engine is your voltage regulator. The two wires coming out from under the fly wheel are AC voltage off the stator. The voltage regulator has a third wire which is DC output to go to your battery for charge. Notice the bulge in one AC wire on new engine coming out from under flywheel. This is a DIODE that converts the AC to DC and has to go to battery or battery side of solenoid to charge battery thus eliminating the voltage regulator on bad engine. Just make sure the wire WITH diode is feeding back to battery. Other AC wire feeds your lights. Or cut out the diode on new engine and you can use the voltage regulator on the new engine. Look for the diode.
Thank You For the Info
I have a 21 hp intek that has no external voltage regulator, it appears to have the diode in the red wire at the disconnect, and while its running I get a reading of 12.6v at the battery. I disconnected the alternator from the 6 pin connect and got a voltage of 12.6 again. Is this the correct voltage? If so, can this charging system carry the load of an electric pto clutch and keep the battery charged?
MrDanoconnor n
To create a kill switch Do I just put in a switch from the 2 wires coming from stator to ground?
@MrDanOConnor, I am having the same issues. Did you ever figure out how to solve the problem? Any help or advice you could give me would be great! Thank You!
Your new engine has the diode in the red wire your older engine has the square rectifier it wouldn't hurt to use both just wire the to the diode how it goes
did you do a video after fixing this problem i subbed your channel and went back to find it i cant and i need to see how it was fixed im doing something similar but mounting it on an old snapper rear drive and just want to be able to crank with a battery and kill with gas shut off if need be thanks all help appriciated ...
All, love the comments below, I appear to have the same problem but backwards. I have an LT1000, the original B&S engine pooped out on me, I purchased a new Intek 17.5hp engine, 31R977-0054, The old engine did no have a fuel pump (gravity feed system) while this new engine does have the pump. I also have the regulator on the new engine with that one pesky red wire, not sure where to hook it up. From what I have read and if I understand correctly, that wire needs a constant power feed from the battery so it is possible to wire it directly to the positive side of the solenoid? The B&S site is not helpful when it comes to wiring diagrams for this engine. Thanks for the help on this.
Hi, just wondering if you ever resolved the single red wire, I have the same problem
@@clintontaylor2536 Sorry to take so long to reply, had to get the mower out to do my lawn and see the way I hooked it up (did not remember off the top of my head). I took the red wire from the engine and connected to the battery wire on the relay. Have been using that set up for two seasons, no issues, battery continues to be charged while mowing.
It will all still work the same just red with diod goes to battery side on solinoid the white wire goes to the light part on ignition switch then the gray one will be going to a spot on key switch with 12 volts going to it in the on position so your carm will work then the black goes to m on the key switch so it will open amd close to shut egin off or let it run all the other wire will be for safty switches or for electronice pto if it has one
after ya cut seloniod plunger, PUT ON FUEL SHUTOFF VALVE...
Amount of volts and amp or resistance to ignition
One design to charge with electric clutch, other not so much
Hi guys, I’m hoping someone can help, I’ve just put a 18hp v-twin engine onto my John Deere ride on, according to the owner I got it off they originally had a 18.5hp single exhaust, now I’ve got everything connected accept the wiring, I have the harness running from the ignition but I’ve got the same problem I have two loose wires that need to be connected to the original wiring harness. I wish I could post photos to make it easier for everyone, sorry if no one can understand this I’m not good at explaining things
little late but i have a wiring dia. if you could tell where it comes fom i can tell where it gos and what it for
seperate the wirimng regulators ar for charging and using an attachment check the coils should have diodes bet you have a bad electrical switch check it with an ohm meter
Removed wiring harness form bad engine and put into other engine
Did you ever get this solved??? If so can you link or explain in the description please?
Hi Alex, did you get this solved? If so, pictures on how please
@@clintontaylor2536 I DID!! sadly I can't post pictures here. TH-cam sucks the big D.
@@AlexMcMeeken did you just attach it to the solenoid?
@@clintontaylor2536 yep, I took the old connector off the previous engine and tied that red wire into the connector and then it plugged in.
not the STARTER wire, that goes to the battery
Just match the colors up on that plastic connector.
Your problems is actually a very easy fix, I’m sure by now it’s already been done.
You just needed to swap out the black wire and gray wire from your old engine to your new engine, that little module is just a voltage regulator you should have swapped it most likely the tracker did need it.
e ifif
that other comment i is a miss print skip it what iwas trying to tell about the rectifyer ( 3 wires ) 2 wires will have about 36 volts ac with eng running the 3rd wire should read abut 18 volts dc with eng running this is whats charging the battery
It had it in the red wire on the other different engine actually newer engine the newest engines have the diodes olders have the square rectifiers with either one red wire 2 yellow wires sometimes 1 yellow wire the diode does the same act as the rectifier does its just little its easy to miss hard to find if you don't know about them
That's the voltage regulator
Hello there . Did you ever figure it out. I removed my old engine that didn’t have module put in new engine that does. I wired up gray and black. But don’t know where the single red wire from module connects to on my other plug. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Looks like I have reverse of what you had.
Luis perez i have the exact problem as you. Have you solved yours? If so, how...thanks.
someone tell me how to check out that electricAl box
Its a voltage regulater
I match the colors if something bad happens then it does and i look at the situation and say oh well fuck it it ain't gonna blow nothing out not even the stator maybe the ignition fuse not even a relay
On my old engine i can't find the charging system wiring hook up how to so i twisted both the yellows together and cut the red into the ignition switch it doesn't seem to be doing shit unless the battery is so old wont hold a charge i can't find buffalo shit on how to hook up the rectifier to the old i/c 12 hp briggs engine so thats how its hooked up now i jump start it and it runs fine without the rectifier
hmm well I can say this much the square thing is a power relay for the stator
Thanks...I know I'm gonna eliminate it, whatever the hell it is but the wiring is a bit of a puzzle.
hm yes it is. if you want ill do a reply video on how I did mines tomorrow maybe it will help a little
dragon124356 Sure, if you have the time that would be great and I'm sure it will be helpful to others as well. Thanks
ok sure will
dragon124356 wasent able to put it up because of rain but I think chevy has this solved :)
If this video wasnt so old i couldve told you everything you wanted to know its more simple that you think
I I’m in the process of doing an engine swap and I’m facing the same issue so I’d be very appreciative to know what you do. Thanks
@@popskull6617 do you have the as he calls it "square modual" or just the two wires one with a bulge? That you are putting on
Where does the black wire go to from the voltage regulator grounded to what my mower doesnt start have the black wire on the regulator hanging where does it go its a Briggs 17hp only 1 wire for the stator for this model engine
@rannz8 I’m facing this issue in reverse. My old mower had the “square module” my new motor does not.
The new motor has two wires coming from under the flywheel (one red, fat on the end THE DIODE IM ASSUMING and one black) they go in to a white connector.
But the only free standing wire I have that could even potentially connect is a violet colored wire that runs into a fuse panel on my toro z420
Thoughts?
Dan if you need it I have a pdf file of Briggs wiring, if you want it pm me an email I can send it to.
savagenomore can you help me my coils it stop running I unhook the wires and I got Spark so I ran a new kill wire when I take both coils and time together and I run it to ground the get it to stop but soon as I put the two coil wires together the motor loses spark without hooking up nothing is that normal you can't hook to coil wires together on the kill switch on the mags
Dan I have a 17.5 opposing twin briggs im installing in place of the same type engine Mrdanoconner has but it was a 15.5 briggs OHV sgl cyl can I use the old voltage reg on the 17.5 twin? The mower is a CZ3815 Husqvarna zero turn with a PTO to Blades does it need the regulator to run the PTO? Thanks
Hello I have a 1996 mtd lawn machine 20 hp briggs with a 7 post key switch safety. switch for blade/ seat /reverse. Have new sylanoid 4 post as original equipment. And new safety switches and key switch. No wiring T all. Wiring harness was removed. I also have pigtails thAt go to sylanoid. Can some one help me. Mabey a wiring diagram. I'm stArting fresh. Btw. I priced a harness. Very expensive. Any help would be appreciated. Thank u
send it to me, please.
More amps bigger out put
So the two little wires that you think go to the ignition module that is wrong the gray wire is supposed to go over to the carburetor and tie to a anti-fire solenoid the black one actually goes to the ignition module for the kill switch the two wires coming out from under the front of the flywheel the one with the diode or the fat wire that's your DC output the little skinny wire that's your AC output that little box there that's just basically like a miniature computer you don't really need it all you really need is the that little harness the one is square like the plug going out from under your flywheel with the two wires they plug into that one the one with the diode it should be on the side with the red wire and then you just plug the other end into your main harness that won't work the scratch off the flywheel and change out the stator I know those engines are nothing alike one that you put on that the Chinese piece of junk bridge and Stratton usually found on stuff like the new crap man's or the d o y built it is a Chinese piece of junk is an actual Briggs & Stratton those engines can be hit or miss if they have a full pressure lubrication system meaning that they actually have an oil filter like most all your Kohler engines that's a good thing me I'm a stiffer for the old school Kawasaki that's how you know when you got a real John Deere Home Depot obviously but with those engines like the one that you put on that lawn mower I've seen one of those blow up the first 2 hours of cutting so they're just junk old school humongous black hair Stratton in one of those
I would wire the rectifier up with the engine that already has the rectifier/diode in the red wire and then it'll shoot a ton of charge back to the battery
Either engine is a good engine the one with the diode is new one with rectifier is older both still good lot newer then my 3hp 8 hp and 12 hp briggs they don't have no oil filters to fuck with or change when changing the oil they'll all run without a battery can your Japanese Kawasaki run without a battery hooked up and mow grass my usa made Briggs engines with China parts do
I never had a Kawasaki engine just keep on receiving more Kohlers what i don't really want or need i have 2 good junk ones as you say
John Deere's suck so do cub Cadets while craftsman make cubs the cubs decks look alot similar to deere L series mowers even the mowers back side looks like a Deere L series they both suck because of how they're made underneath harder to change the drive belt
Old dark green craftsman's aren't nothing is in the way of changing its drive belt or deck belt
Im hooking up one of my old dark green ones with a old craftsman 22hp twin cylinder engine thrn fix its badly made hood so it'll have a permanent hinge but hood still removable if need to but a bunch of my mowers and transmissions say made in usa