This video saved me. I was lost with my timing and I was able to put my car back together correctly because of this video.By far the best video I've ever found. Thank you so much for posting this.God bless you🙏🙏🙏
I am an experienced mechanic and your explanation of TDC to cam lobe positioning is explained in amazing detail so that even a newbie can understand, relation to reality quodos my man,keep up the great work,not all teachers can get there point across in clear and concise manner you can😂.bw
I was searching all over for the rotation direction of the 2.2L engine on a 2007 Saturn Ion (L61) to see if the engine is siezed before I replace the starter. THIS VIDEO answered my question: Clockwise (CW)/Right. Thank you!
Just wanted to let you no if no one else has that you are a hero this video gave me more knowledge and the confidence to take this task on when I was lost. Your very appreciated
Wait, hold up, are you saying that you time this engine at TDC after EXHAUST? Not compression? I just tore this engine back down because I thought it was 180 out. Couldn't figure out how the hell out could be out with the links in the marks but, damn. Well thanks for clearing that up for me.
GM Ecotec has its own variants too of course. So if you’re taking this video reference, watch one thing close to not to get confused. In this video on the crank pulley there’s a white reference mark. I believe the mechanic marked that with paint as an indicator. Actual crank timing is behind the pulley on the sprocket. When the paint mark is at 12 o’clock, actual crank timing mark is supposed to be at 5 o’clock. So what he says 6 an 12 are actually key marks. Repair manual never mentions a 6 o’clock. Basically install your chain at exhaust stroke tdc when exhaust camshaft is at 10 o’clock; intake camshaft is at 2 o’clock and your crankshaft is at 5 o’clock mark.
Your Cavalier timing job vids were my primary source in replacing my destroyed timing guides. I got it running again but it seems the cam timing is off a bit and Im getting p0340 along with p0315. Trying to relearn the crank position variation but test keeps terminating due to camshaft code. Seems like I need to take it a part and go over the strokes using this vid to verify my timing.
Hello ( reason for working onthe is butting in new head gasket etc. ) i also hope you can help me i am in process of turning crankshaft by hand it moved nicely than it kinda sprockets had a sudden quick movent from that point crankshat will not budge.
Man I really need your help I'll trying to pay a timing chain in mine but I took the tensioner out first in my cams moved on me so I don't know if it's in line tideline all the marks up in the cans with the timing marks but I don't know if my camps or off I put new gears on there please help
How do you know whether the crank is on the compression or exhaust stroke. I'm assuming the crank position sensor has to be in proper relationship since it's a 2 to 1 relationship. Crank could be on exhaust stroke when cams are on compression stroke. Computer needs to know.
Your question is quite reasonable. This is my concern too. I think the answer will be find in another question "does ecu sparks in all cyliders at the time they reach TDC, irelatively if they are in compresion or exhaust phase? For example if sparks at the same time in #1 & #4 at TDC, whether one of them is ending the exhaust phase, then crank sensor is not confused. It will send ECU the signal to spark anyway to both at TDC. Am I getting it right? If not the case, then I'm confused too :(
How did you tighten the sprockets on the balancer chain, seems the punch method I tried did not work. Was thinking of designing a chain tool with the old chain to hold the sprocket in place in order to tighten. Thoughts?
@@TheOriginalMechanic lol, there are two sprockets on the balance chain (water pump and crank are on the same chain). Your obviously a pro since it anit no thing for ya! Great video for shore!
Would this be the same for a 2.4 ecotec and if so would this be exactly how you want it timed after literally putting the chain back on , tdc end of exhaust, crank at 12 , exhaust lobe on cam at 7 , intake lobe at 5?
did you figure this out? You have to make sure you have the correct engine code. from what i'm reading the LE5 which is mine with the 8th digit 0 the marks are different than others, but regardless it gets timed on the exhaust stroke chilton's says, I can't quite figure out the exhaust vs compression stroke.
Buenas tardes. Espero puedan ayudarme, quité una cadena de tiempo de este vehículo pero no tiene marcas, se borraron, si pueden decirme cuántos eslabones hay entre marcas para poder armar y poner a tiempo. No encuentro esa información en la red. Gracias, saludos.
how did you keep the timing chain from becoming slack between cam gears when partially turning the crank to check for interference. mine goes tight, slack, tigjt, slack every time. it's all new parts, and the timing marks match up what am I doing wrong
did that, and replaced it three times thinking I got bad parts. someone somewhere said something about loading the cam gear, don't know what that means. I've had the car running after install all three times and have the timing chain slap on upper guide every time, no codes set, never has thrown a code. and somehow it has never skipped any teeth, the car is apart in my garage with the valve cover off, and voila, loose chain again.
@@snowrider5150 I recall during the install the chain being very tight and hard to get over the firewall side cam gear. I had to use a helper tool to install it. You can see it here; th-cam.com/video/ZSCRUOLOd9k/w-d-xo.html
You have to make sure the single chain mark goes to the intake sprocket mark at 2 o’clock and then one of the other two of the same chain marks goes to the crankshaft 5 o’clock mark then the middle tensioner then the other chain mark goes to the exhaust sprocket mark at 10 o’clock, then bring in counter clockwise the intake cam so you would be able to fit the exhaust sprocket in its right place, now you’re all tight in.
Just to be precise the loves on the on take at TDC, 4:30 to 7:30 intake stroke 7:30 to 10:30 comp stroke 10:30 to 1:30 fire stroke 1:30 to 4:30 exhaust stroke
last time I followed your videos it work my car started after 15 minutes my chain guide have broke so I had to redo my timing but it's cranking but not starting if I didn't make sure the cam position was in the right position but timing chain marks and cranks was in the right position would it not start I try for about an hour maybe a little over would never seem like it was catching
Be sure you set the valves at TDC on the exhaust stroke and verify by looking at the positions of the cam lobes on the #1 cylinder, exactly as shown on the video. To verify TDC, do this: at the 11:00 position on the balancer on the crankshaft, there is a scribed line in the metal rim of the balancer that precisely lines up with a mark in front timing cover of the engine. The light in the video was not at the correct angle to show this mark, and it can be hard to see without removing the top engine mount on the passenger side and the belt tensioner. Support the oil pan of the engine on a wooden block on a jack, if you remove that one top engine mount.
Thanks. I made it myself by resting a piece of straight steel (like welding rod or stiff wire) on top of a piston, through the spark plug hole. Then I manually turned the engine and marked the rod at the top and bottom of the stroke.
You may have not noticed that you were referring to the intake and the exhaust reversed. Unless the engine is the 2.5 with the throttle at the nose/Front or 12 O’clock. If so then the intake would be to the right if standing at front right fender looking across the engine in the direction of the battery and left front fender. If it’s the model where the throttle body is Jamed under the brake booster and firewall on the driver side. Then the intake is to the left,6.o’clock or SOUTH. Either way THE CHEVY/GM ECO TECH 2.4/2.5 direct fuel injection 4 cylinder engine is a MEDIUM SIZE PILE OF SHIT. I have a 2015 CHEVY MALABU WITH 89k miles. I change my oil 2 times a year and used SYNTHETIC FRONT BRAND OIL. Not gonna say the brand name, but it’s in the top 5 best ones category. The trouble started with the batteries going out which is normal no problem. But from there VTS,CAM SHAFT POSITIONING SENSORS,PCV FRESH/ SECONDARY/VACUUM PUMP,O2SENSORS UP/DOWN STREAM/CRANK SHAFT SENSORS/SPARK PLUGS/MAF SENSOR/FUEL PUMP under the hood not the fuel tank/OIL PRESSURE REG UNDER THE INTAKE VTS. Took valve cover off and never in my life I have seen so much slug and gunk. So 12 oil filters, 25 quarts of oil, 1.5 gallons of DEISEL/2 QUARTS STP ENGINE OIL FLUSH and OIL PAN AND OIL PUMP STRAINER CLEANED AND WASHED OUT THE ENGINE AND DRAINED OUT 6 TIMES. And now the engine is still not working. Took ECM tested and passed but got another one from salvage yard anyway. Both are doing the same. This ENGINE IS A PIECE OF SHIT.
I am a FORD MAN, I built my own engine power up in My 2017 MUSTANG GT Single TURBO pure street car and daily driver and runs consistent 7.80’s 1/4 mile 179.7MPH and 4.12 in the 1/8 @150.3 MPH, MY FORD SUV HAS 176k miles my F-450 has 58k, my wife’s LEXUS GS460 had 81k miles. I do all the work and servicing of all my vehicles. This is a newer car and it’s nothing but a pile of CRAP. Stay away from 2.5 GM!!!
This video saved me. I was lost with my timing and I was able to put my car back together correctly because of this video.By far the best video I've ever found. Thank you so much for posting this.God bless you🙏🙏🙏
You made my day. Thanks for the comment!
I am an experienced mechanic and your explanation of TDC to cam lobe positioning is explained in amazing detail so that even a newbie can understand, relation to reality quodos my man,keep up the great work,not all teachers can get there point across in clear and concise manner you can😂.bw
I really appreciate your taking the time to comment. This video was kind of an add- on idea I got after replacing the timing chain.
This is one of the best detailed explanation video I've seen! Ty!
I was stuck questioning if I had everything back right after crank slipped the chain. Thank you so much for making this video, it was a Godsend!
I was searching all over for the rotation direction of the 2.2L engine on a 2007 Saturn Ion (L61) to see if the engine is siezed before I replace the starter. THIS VIDEO answered my question: Clockwise (CW)/Right. Thank you!
Just wanted to let you no if no one else has that you are a hero this video gave me more knowledge and the confidence to take this task on when I was lost. Your very appreciated
Your video gave me confidence, and I was able to start my motor and it runs great thank you very much
What did you do
Kudos to this man how well he explains the timing and the position of the camshaft thank you my good man😊😊
Wait, hold up, are you saying that you time this engine at TDC after EXHAUST? Not compression? I just tore this engine back down because I thought it was 180 out. Couldn't figure out how the hell out could be out with the links in the marks but, damn. Well thanks for clearing that up for me.
Thank you for this video this is the only video that’s that detailed again thank you
GM Ecotec has its own variants too of course. So if you’re taking this video reference, watch one thing close to not to get confused. In this video on the crank pulley there’s a white reference mark. I believe the mechanic marked that with paint as an indicator. Actual crank timing is behind the pulley on the sprocket. When the paint mark is at 12 o’clock, actual crank timing mark is supposed to be at 5 o’clock. So what he says 6 an 12 are actually key marks. Repair manual never mentions a 6 o’clock. Basically install your chain at exhaust stroke tdc when exhaust camshaft is at 10 o’clock; intake camshaft is at 2 o’clock and your crankshaft is at 5 o’clock mark.
Thank you so much for clarifying this. Yes, the chain mark and the mark on crank sprocket should be 5:00.God bless you 🙏🙏🙏
Your Cavalier timing job vids were my primary source in replacing my destroyed timing guides. I got it running again but it seems the cam timing is off a bit and Im getting p0340 along with p0315. Trying to relearn the crank position variation but test keeps terminating due to camshaft code. Seems like I need to take it a part and go over the strokes using this vid to verify my timing.
Thanks for watching and I hope you are able to get it running good again.
Hello ( reason for working onthe is butting in new head gasket etc. ) i also hope you can help me i am in process of turning crankshaft by hand it moved nicely than it kinda sprockets had a sudden quick movent from that point crankshat will not budge.
Man I really need your help I'll trying to pay a timing chain in mine but I took the tensioner out first in my cams moved on me so I don't know if it's in line tideline all the marks up in the cans with the timing marks but I don't know if my camps or off I put new gears on there please help
How do you know whether the crank is on the compression or exhaust stroke. I'm assuming the crank position sensor has to be in proper relationship since it's a 2 to 1 relationship. Crank could be on exhaust stroke when cams are on compression stroke. Computer needs to know.
I have not replaced a crank sensor but I wouldn't think you need to know about where the stroke is to replace it.
Your question is quite reasonable. This is my concern too. I think the answer will be find in another question "does ecu sparks in all cyliders at the time they reach TDC, irelatively if they are in compresion or exhaust phase? For example if sparks at the same time in #1 & #4 at TDC, whether one of them is ending the exhaust phase, then crank sensor is not confused. It will send ECU the signal to spark anyway to both at TDC. Am I getting it right? If not the case, then I'm confused too :(
THANK YOU I BEEN LOOKING FOR THIS INFORMTION
I wish I could give you 10 thumbs up..... You valid!
how do i verify the #1 is at TDC on proper stroke? Timing chain was broken.
Good question
How did you tighten the sprockets on the balancer chain, seems the punch method I tried did not work. Was thinking of designing a chain tool with the old chain to hold the sprocket in place in order to tighten. Thoughts?
I didn't know sprocket tightening was a thing. So I'm at a loss as to suggestions.
@@TheOriginalMechanic lol, there are two sprockets on the balance chain (water pump and crank are on the same chain). Your obviously a pro since it anit no thing for ya! Great video for shore!
@@cgonedfishing Not a pro for shore! I didn't bother changing the water pump or maybe I would have learned about the need for sprocket tightening.
Great video, very clean and precise
Would this be the same for a 2.4 ecotec and if so would this be exactly how you want it timed after literally putting the chain back on , tdc end of exhaust, crank at 12 , exhaust lobe on cam at 7 , intake lobe at 5?
Possibly but I can't say for sure. I've only worked on the 2.2.
did you figure this out? You have to make sure you have the correct engine code. from what i'm reading the LE5 which is mine with the 8th digit 0 the marks are different than others, but regardless it gets timed on the exhaust stroke chilton's says, I can't quite figure out the exhaust vs compression stroke.
I bet this is why I'm getting ckp sensor codes. A rocker arm. Or lobe broke an I replaced it but did not do this
Buenas tardes.
Espero puedan ayudarme, quité una cadena de tiempo de este vehículo pero no tiene marcas, se borraron, si pueden decirme cuántos eslabones hay entre marcas para poder armar y poner a tiempo.
No encuentro esa información en la red.
Gracias, saludos.
Sorry, I don't have that information.
how did you keep the timing chain from becoming slack between cam gears when partially turning the crank to check for interference.
mine goes tight, slack, tigjt, slack every time. it's all new parts, and the timing marks match up what am I doing wrong
mine is vvt by the way
may sure the tensioner is activated.
did that, and replaced it three times thinking I got bad parts.
someone somewhere said something about loading the cam gear, don't know what that means.
I've had the car running after install all three times and have the timing chain slap on upper guide every time, no codes set, never has thrown a code. and somehow it has never skipped any teeth, the car is apart in my garage with the valve cover off, and voila, loose chain again.
@@snowrider5150 I recall during the install the chain being very tight and hard to get over the firewall side cam gear. I had to use a helper tool to install it. You can see it here; th-cam.com/video/ZSCRUOLOd9k/w-d-xo.html
You have to make sure the single chain mark goes to the intake sprocket mark at 2 o’clock and then one of the other two of the same chain marks goes to the crankshaft 5 o’clock mark then the middle tensioner then the other chain mark goes to the exhaust sprocket mark at 10 o’clock, then bring in
counter clockwise the intake cam so you would be able to fit the exhaust sprocket in its right place, now you’re all tight in.
Just to be precise the loves on the on take at TDC,
4:30 to 7:30 intake stroke
7:30 to 10:30 comp stroke
10:30 to 1:30 fire stroke
1:30 to 4:30 exhaust stroke
last time I followed your videos it work my car started after 15 minutes my chain guide have broke so I had to redo my timing but it's cranking but not starting if I didn't make sure the cam position was in the right position but timing chain marks and cranks was in the right position would it not start I try for about an hour maybe a little over would never seem like it was catching
If your sure the timing is right and you're getting gas and spark, you may have to be concerned about valve damage on this engine.
Be sure you set the valves at TDC on the exhaust stroke and verify by looking at the positions of the cam lobes on the #1 cylinder, exactly as shown on the video. To verify TDC, do this: at the 11:00 position on the balancer on the crankshaft, there is a scribed line in the metal rim of the balancer that precisely lines up with a mark in front timing cover of the engine. The light in the video was not at the correct angle to show this mark, and it can be hard to see without removing the top engine mount on the passenger side and the belt tensioner. Support the oil pan of the engine on a wooden block on a jack, if you remove that one top engine mount.
great video ,exactly what i needed ,hope it works with vvt timing also ,Thanks
I think there are some differences, some other considerations with vvt timing
How do u re establish timing?
I made a series of videos on replacing the timing chain. Here is the popular part 4: th-cam.com/video/ZSCRUOLOd9k/w-d-xo.html
The white dot on the harmonic balance is that the tdc mark you have marked
yes, on cylinder 1
Well done, clear and concise. Your "indicator", did you make it, buy it? If you made it, how?
Thanks. I made it myself by resting a piece of straight steel (like welding rod or stiff wire) on top of a piston, through the spark plug hole. Then I manually turned the engine and marked the rod at the top and bottom of the stroke.
Es lo.as perfecto 👍
You may have not noticed that you were referring to the intake and the exhaust reversed. Unless the engine is the 2.5 with the throttle at the nose/Front or 12 O’clock. If so then the intake would be to the right if standing at front right fender looking across the engine in the direction of the battery and left front fender. If it’s the model where the throttle body is Jamed under the brake booster and firewall on the driver side. Then the intake is to the left,6.o’clock or SOUTH. Either way THE CHEVY/GM ECO TECH 2.4/2.5 direct fuel injection 4 cylinder engine is a MEDIUM SIZE PILE OF SHIT. I have a 2015 CHEVY MALABU WITH 89k miles. I change my oil 2 times a year and used SYNTHETIC FRONT BRAND OIL. Not gonna say the brand name, but it’s in the top 5 best ones category. The trouble started with the batteries going out which is normal no problem. But from there VTS,CAM SHAFT POSITIONING SENSORS,PCV FRESH/ SECONDARY/VACUUM PUMP,O2SENSORS UP/DOWN STREAM/CRANK SHAFT SENSORS/SPARK PLUGS/MAF SENSOR/FUEL PUMP under the hood not the fuel tank/OIL PRESSURE REG UNDER THE INTAKE VTS. Took valve cover off and never in my life I have seen so much slug and gunk. So 12 oil filters, 25 quarts of oil, 1.5 gallons of DEISEL/2 QUARTS STP ENGINE OIL FLUSH and OIL PAN AND OIL PUMP STRAINER CLEANED AND WASHED OUT THE ENGINE AND DRAINED OUT 6 TIMES. And now the engine is still not working. Took ECM tested and passed but got another one from salvage yard anyway. Both are doing the same. This ENGINE IS A PIECE OF SHIT.
That's the damn truth. Two makes of vehicles I hope I never own again: Chevrolet and Dodge.
^lobes
Stop trying to talk smart…talk clearer
I am a FORD MAN, I built my own engine power up in
My 2017 MUSTANG GT Single TURBO pure street car and daily driver and runs consistent 7.80’s 1/4 mile 179.7MPH and 4.12 in the 1/8 @150.3 MPH, MY FORD SUV HAS 176k miles my F-450 has 58k, my wife’s LEXUS GS460 had 81k miles. I do all the work and servicing of all my vehicles. This is a newer car and it’s nothing but a pile of CRAP. Stay away from 2.5 GM!!!