You will need a set of tracks on either side of the kiln, with a crain structure built between them so that you can lift lids, and charcoal tubes in and out. So much potential.
Absolutely excellent. Not only did I learn a lot but I now have a use for a mini dumpster that's been sitting behind the shed for years. It's looks exactly the right shape however it's considerably larger. I also noticed the chap doing the welding, Tim I think, uses the same safety boots I do and I've also found someone with the perfect voice if I ever want to narrate a children's audio book. Good job well done.
I suggest you connect the track to your workshop so when you build more rolling stock, the rest of the kilm parts ect then could just push it straight on to the track therefore saving your backs arms and legs.
What a great video! Anyone watching who wants to try making char with the flame-cap method like this, but lacking steel and a welder, can dig the cone shape into the ground and it works quite well. I've tried it a number of times with good success and there are a lot of tutorials floating around.
Tim, look at rocket stove flue designs for the chimney. Where the flue stack is lined with refactory, which is heated by the combustion, to aid with the reburning of gases by the extra air. Though they do require a lot of heat from the combustion to get/keep the stack hot. Which you may be struggling to provide?
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 ah yes.... maybe look for the bricks out of old storage radiators... heat them up in the charcoal kiln and run them by rail to where you need the warmth....toasty.
That's great! I've made a bit of charcoal in an old wok with a loose lid inside our wood stove. The gases that escape burn with a blue flame that changes to yellow. After about 30 minutes, I know that when those flames go out, the process is complete. I was surprised that the gases coming out of Tim's retort didn't combust, because that would have been a way of telling how the pyrolisis was going.
Be careful adding water directly to the bottom, if it flash boils then the only direction the steam can go is up, and you would have yourself a toasty charcoal shower.
The Best explanation of Flame Cap Pyrolysis I have seen to date wonderful great stuff. When I want to start my fire quickly in my kiln I use a tepee fire to begin, this fire can be quickly scaled by adding rings of longer and longer sticks, I usually blind each layer with the wood from our branch logger to fill in the gaps.
Great Video! I'd like to see how YOU explain how the water filter works with "activated charcoal" as you have a great way of explaining things in ways i can understand. I feel this is something we could have been taught in high school Yr 9 ish (over 30yrs ago) but i don't remember it, probably dismissed it as useless information(which was the style at that time). luckily youtube came about and I learn something most days from people like you.
What I have read is it many harmful chemicals, like chlorine or oils, will stick to it while the water passes through. The pores, cracks, and holes in activated charcoal help it soak up lots of contaminants.
I did some experiments with the retort-style kiln, and had good results on my channel. It may not be best by itself, but wonderful if you already have heat from another kiln process. My retort kiln ended up making so much wood-gas that I wonder if it could be a self-fueled process if you released the gas under it and burned it in an old gas stove element.
It can at least help/improve efficiency! I *think* burners may need to be modified / custom made (i need to grab the name, but there is a TH-cam channel that does stuff like this really well and it seems do-able!) due to the air/fuel mis being optimized for methane or propane, not wood pyrolysis gas or maybe more pure syngas, but yeah. (Granted *just a bent tube with a flashback arrestor could probably work too lol* )
Neat ideas though, and I wonder if there could be *collaboration* on all this / maybe a competition like the #SpeedBoatRace / “Speed Benchies” did for 3d printing, but for charcoal. Cross Promotion, Hype, and just in general a bunch of tinkering + designing!
That's what I expected to see when he mentioned a Retort kiln. Ones I have seen were a 45 gallon drum on its side with what was the bottom cut off and refitted as a door. A scaffold pole is attached with plumbing fittings to the cap hole and 2 90 degree bends to run it underneath with the end capped. Holes are drilled in the pole for gasses to escape. The barrel is filled with wood and the door sealed. A fire underneath gets the process started and is reduced while it is running. When it's hot enough the wood gas is ignited under the barrel by the fire and helps heat it. When the gas stops, the charcoal is cooked. An improvement would be a spaced off cover with flue to keep the fire around and over the barrel. Further improvement is a blanket over that cover.
Whilst trying to build these kilns, perhaps bring out tornado more to help out a little more, not only could he bring supplies up to the kiln sight as your working on it, it would also work for an opportunity to find out how much tornado can pull in his current form
Why, if pushing them works fine? He’s explained previously that he doesn’t really have a use for it until the large extension is built. It would just require more time and effort to get it prepared.
very cool, love this kind of project! could add a little metal child's slide from where the chips drop that leads to the hopper, then a hog door at the bottom for "control"
Great work guys. I just got a five hundred gallon propane tank that I am tweaking into a coke oven, I just cut a hole in both sides and it work great. Your local propane delivery company probably has a few sitting around that don’t hold gas anymore.
with the bar you are going to remove on the log carts, you can regain some of that reinforcement by putting a couple chunky pieces of steel across the front and back with the hitch mounted to that then use strips of steel down the side of the cart to connect the ends. it might not be as strong as the steel bar but its better than just the wood frame.
I am very excited about your announced heat storage project. The idea of somehow storing excess thermal energy from the charcoal production process for later use sounds quite ambitious at first glance... I have only seen something like this on a FAR BIGGER and industrial scale until now!?
11:35 Perhaps have a sort of conveyor, or even passive ramp like one would have for soda cans!, that has numerous kilns like that gradually travel through the heat then drop out to be emptied? Would have the simplicity of that genius kiln of yours, with a more continuous nature. Could even use a cooling rack/bath pre-opening them to prevent that spontaneous combustion issue you mentioned!
I like the video. I believe it is educational more than anything else. Charcoal is coming back strongly in the following few years. For the track, enjoy your hobby man.
A recommendation; as someone who uses homemade charcoal for blacksmithing: loads of information online (and people you meet) will say all sorts of warnings about "don't use such and such charcoal, it won't burn hot enough" or that charcoal has to be made to be super hard high-temperature hardwood char or else it won't work. I've used it all; they're incorrect, I think it's because so many smiths (here in Ontario at least) use coking coal and few try charcoal, fewer still make their own char, but you can in my experience reach temperatures well over the burning and melting point of steel easily with ANY charcoal - Provided critically that it be dry. I've even forged in ashy stuff sifted out of a campfire pit that had been rained on and dried in the sun; it all works but won't burn well until it's dried a few moments in the forge's heat. All charcoal is porous and collects moisture over time, this is okay and barring drenching the stuff moisture won't ruin it for forging. Hard high-temp hardwood or softwood charcoal genuinely burns nicer and gives less sparks/embers in the forced air of the tuyere, but even fluffy porous stuff burns hot, if with more ash and crinkling than ideal.
you can make a steel wagon for the charcoal with left-over metal and making a box with it so you can carry charcoal and activated charcoal to where it's gonna get grinded and with a loco motive i'd suggest using your rocket boiler to supply the power as what most fireless engines did, using the steam from factory boilers to power themselfs like what tornado is or you can make a flatbed and put a gas motor and a barrel to supply the fuel. and make a quick and easy diesel loco for your expanding railway
Very nice ; because I didn’t have a cone kiln I made charcoal ina a bucket and it worked! Thanks this is why I tried making chat coal; I didn’t think it would be so easy!
Airtight lid is better than water, because then, all the volatiles can escape while it remains hot. With water, you basically quench the reaction and some volatiles/tar that burn with bright flame, remain back. Charcoal is also nice to insulate garden shed etc. doesn't rot, keeps constant humidity by absorbing/releasing water vapor and isn't ugly stuff such as rock wool.
18:02 Some ideas for Grinding: In-Sink Wet Food Waste Grinders (“Insinkerator” is a brand, we often call them “Garbage Disposals” or “Kitchen Grinders” here in the USA) work really well, although they make small particle size if that isn’t what you want (although you could then pelletize/press that into bricks/briquettes maybe!) Granted that option may be a bit pricy. If you use it for compost too, the surface area increase speeds things up dramatically! Another option may be a ball mill that runs off of an old cement mixer, your stationary engine, or maybe even a crank/bike? I would think any sort of drum filled with charcoal and ball bearings/rocks etc would work well, maybe with bar stock for lifting stuff as it spins? Finally a Hammer Mill or Jaw Crusher could be used. Granted high power need, and a major safety hazard (so use proper guarding/shields etc, want ground charcoal, not hands!), but they are pretty simple and that may be nice. Also some good designs around TH-cam and whatnot already. Either way i wish you luck on all that!
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 a wood chipper seems like the ideal setup....the chips they put out seem almost ideal size for charcoal briquettes.... from my chair they look right anyway lol this is really cool, grateful to have found your channel
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 I’d second the ball mill idea. I use a much smaller scale setup to grind charcoal for making black powder for antique firearms- it’s a large metal bucket chucked up in my lathe, filled with lead balls. It gives a very consistent, repeatable grind when run at the same speed and duration. I’d recommend using brass or another soft metal as your balls though, so sense in contaminating your soil additive with lead! Avoid steel agitators, though, they’ll spark against the drum and each other and could make the whole thing go up in smoke!
Great video. I've never seen anyone have a retort above the cone before. I've done something similar to make use of the heat. I look forward to seeing what plans you've got to harness even more of the escaping heat.
I like your approach to wood burning in regards to environmentalism, I hear a lot about how it's not ecological cuz it's fire, but those people seem to disregard that the main problem with burnables is that most of them are carbon dragged up from under the earth and added to the cycle, while wood burning is just an alternative way of closing it.
I once built a batch-type charcoal retort in support of my pyrotechnics hobby. 20L stainless-steel stock pot (purchased at a kitchen discounter store in Toronto for almost nothing). The supporting fire was in a 200L barrel that I'd lower the retort in to. OK, for small batches, but not for anything "at scale".
Learning. This is really getting interesting now! I am in awe. So much knowledge. Love the kindly demeanor/ attitude. I believe I'm going to subscribe. Kudos
The addition of a water filled auger at the bottom of the kiln may work . Initially fill the kiln base with gravel to build the fire on . Once there is a sufficient amount of charcoal , the auger could be turned , pulling the charcoal out allowing more space for more biomass . The water filled auger would need a constant supply and could be nutrient rich
Copper coil in the chimney connected to a heat exchange, circulate water through the coil to capture the heat. Works great in fireplaces to pump heat in the house that would otherwise go up the flue.
Chemist here. I don't want to lecture you. You should do this, you are wrong in that detail there. No, I just wanted to say: You are performing some interesting experiments there! Hard work, open mind, gentle character, creative solutions. Keep it up:)
Just love watching you Tim your a genius and we love Ireland 🇮🇪 it’s amazing what you do.We would rather be there than here with this lot of Muppets.Love to Sandra and peace and respect and Good luck 🤞.
Super awesome. A few of my thoughts. You need a set of tracks down in the kiln area. I do not know how much deeper you can go in that area. Either way I think I would do about that size of the kiln as you could almost make them tipping dumping kilns to which you could then tip out on to a conveyor and then send it up to the tracks to waiting carts. The wet down process in my mind would be to fill the cone kiln up then release the water back to a tank that can settle out the water and then be pumped back up to a tank/tower. The transferring of the wood to the kiln is going to be a big of back breaking work from what I gather and see. How I see it in my mind is the kilns on a track. Which I am not sure how that could be done due to the wheels needing to roll. The kiln move in front of the chute and fire is started and loaded then pushed away and another one is moved in place where another fire is started and moved away again then one moved back in place topped off and so on. These kilns could then be filled with water in their place cooled and drained and tipped on to a conveyor of sorts. Either way its a super cool project and I would love to build a kiln and make some charcoal as well. Though I would mainly use it in one of those old coal cook stoves for heat and cooking in the winter. I want to build an outdoor gazebo type thing where it has a place to hang out in the winter and cook out and stay warm.
Hi Tim! What about storing the excess energy in a battery…, that would be very useful as it is storage for mid long term! Capture energy: first use the heat to create steam, use the steam pressure to power a turbine, which then turns a dynamo.
You were saying about preheating the Chips to drive off that last bit of moisture, would feeding the Kiln with an Auger work for that? a slow steady addition of chips to the center of the fire so that the wood preheats a bit before dropping. That should alow the water vapor to go away above the combustion layer and keep the fire hotter. it would also make it closer to a continuous feed than currently. Another addition I thought of, a trapdoor at the bottom of the kiln to a hopper/bunker to drain the water at teh end and bring out the charcoal easily and quickly for another firing.
Tim, great job. I know you have the cars set, but I think if you were to put doors on the side of the cart and the kiln to the side of the tracks, you wouldn't have so much work moving the chips. Think of them as side dump cars per se or how they would use chutes to load coal into a canal boat.
if you can get your chips to a relatively uniform size (easier said than done) you could make a pretty slick hopper to pump the chips into the kiln. maybe a screw pump or a conveyer and feed it right from the rail car but the fun part would be pumping the char up the hill, into a char car.
Hi Tim. I've got a couple of ideas and I wanted to fully develope them before suggesting to you, but I can't. I've got stuck. One idea is what if you use a series of retorts and only half fill them and then rotate them while in the fire. This might make for a more consistent result.
using retort, its mouch better to have slow rotation applied, kinda like a rotisery chicken, where the contents get mixed more and you have less unaffected wood in the centre
I had a go at charcoal making in a retort, lots of fun. Very smelly. Hit and miss, yet I got a lot of charcoal at the end of the process. Might cook with it given the cost of gas now.
Good work Tim. I enjoy watching your projects and I wish I was there to lend a hand. Have you considered using the wood gas to aid in heating the retort?
Before solar PV got cheap there were some solar thermal schemes that used concentrated light to ultimately melt salts as a heat transfer/storage mechanism. I love Tim's historically inspired projects, but I would be curious to see some modern retrospective engineering as well. Some things we have in the modern world would have been possible with the technologies of the past, we just didn't know!
You now need a threaded bung. To drain the water out and rain water when not in used. Keep your eye out for 4 rubber tires Make a rolling A frame. To make it easy to lift and move heavy things. Wood or steel, what materials are available. Will be fun to see just how black you get. When you grind the char coal. Be warn about sparks. We don't want to hear about any explosions 😬
Looks like you need a way to drain the water from the kiln. It also looks like you need a girder crane with a chainfall to help you with the retort, especially if you have more than one. The water pipe also needs a valve at the end to help control the output.
A fine sausage indeed xD For strengthening the carts, Id suggest just putting the steel round the outside, which I dont think will affect the wood frames, since wood is usually quite good in compression
Heat storage. Many decades ago there was an article either in Popular Mechanics, Mother Earth News or a magazine of similar thought; there was a heat storage using an underground room filled with rock. The rock was large enough to allow air movement. The rock would then absorb heat or release it depending on the temperature of the air flowing into the chamber. If you used corrugated tube and gravel could you store the heat in the soil and gravel?
Concerning the decomposition-stability of charcoal: Most bio-char/charcoal wont come close to lasting 2000 years in its original form. Not even the carbon will last that long. Usual charcoal is fully broken down after anything between one and one hundred years. The stable carbon compound fraction is what matters here, and it depends on a plethora of factors. Heat for example. Hotter pyrolysis will give more SC, but less yield overall. Feedstock material is another easy to adjust factor. Hardwood (specially oak) produce higher amounts of SC as well. Now I know that the sequestration of carbon is not the main focus of most bio-char users, just wanted to set this straight. Awesome video as always! I am looking very much forward to upcoming improvements on the system!
I love how you are slowly mechanising your farm more and more, its like a mini industrial revolution and its seriously fun to watch.
"Shoestring Charcoal Co." I think thats a great name for the charcoal plant
You will need a set of tracks on either side of the kiln, with a crain structure built between them so that you can lift lids, and charcoal tubes in and out. So much potential.
I am fascinated by your perpetual optimism. Best of luck with your projects.
Thank you amazing Sandra and Shoestring Tim 🤯
Absolutely excellent. Not only did I learn a lot but I now have a use for a mini dumpster that's been sitting behind the shed for years. It's looks exactly the right shape however it's considerably larger. I also noticed the chap doing the welding, Tim I think, uses the same safety boots I do and I've also found someone with the perfect voice if I ever want to narrate a children's audio book. Good job well done.
This series is more interesting with each episode. I've forgotten about building a locomotive and I'am learning chemistry now!
Cheers 🇨🇦
I suggest you connect the track to your workshop so when you build more rolling stock, the rest of the kilm parts ect then could just push it straight on to the track therefore saving your backs arms and legs.
Very interesting. People like you, deserve to live a long and healthy life, so you could implement all your wonderful ideas.
A rain gatherer to refill the water tank seems an interesting project, that way even the water used to douse the fire is sourced locally!
Can you imagine being the first people who worked this out thousands of years ago!
What a great video! Anyone watching who wants to try making char with the flame-cap method like this, but lacking steel and a welder, can dig the cone shape into the ground and it works quite well. I've tried it a number of times with good success and there are a lot of tutorials floating around.
Tim, look at rocket stove flue designs for the chimney. Where the flue stack is lined with refactory, which is heated by the combustion, to aid with the reburning of gases by the extra air.
Though they do require a lot of heat from the combustion to get/keep the stack hot. Which you may be struggling to provide?
heating... a sand rail waggon.....get super hot. ....push it into the barn. ....toast barn.
Sand's not great for storing heat (too many gaps) but solid hot rocks would work.
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 ah yes.... maybe look for the bricks out of old storage radiators... heat them up in the charcoal kiln and run them by rail to where you need the warmth....toasty.
That's great! I've made a bit of charcoal in an old wok with a loose lid inside our wood stove. The gases that escape burn with a blue flame that changes to yellow. After about 30 minutes, I know that when those flames go out, the process is complete. I was surprised that the gases coming out of Tim's retort didn't combust, because that would have been a way of telling how the pyrolisis was going.
Be careful adding water directly to the bottom, if it flash boils then the only direction the steam can go is up, and you would have yourself a toasty charcoal shower.
well, it does have a pipe for air, wouldn't it also work in reverse as a sort of exhaust for said steam?
The Best explanation of Flame Cap Pyrolysis I have seen to date wonderful great stuff.
When I want to start my fire quickly in my kiln I use a tepee fire to begin, this fire can be quickly scaled by adding rings of longer and longer sticks, I usually blind each layer with the wood from our branch logger to fill in the gaps.
Great Video! I'd like to see how YOU explain how the water filter works with "activated charcoal" as you have a great way of explaining things in ways i can understand. I feel this is something we could have been taught in high school Yr 9 ish (over 30yrs ago) but i don't remember it, probably dismissed it as useless information(which was the style at that time). luckily youtube came about and I learn something most days from people like you.
What I have read is it many harmful chemicals, like chlorine or oils, will stick to it while the water passes through. The pores, cracks, and holes in activated charcoal help it soak up lots of contaminants.
@@andrewreynolds4949 thanks for the reply, i'm even more interested now.
I did some experiments with the retort-style kiln, and had good results on my channel. It may not be best by itself, but wonderful if you already have heat from another kiln process. My retort kiln ended up making so much wood-gas that I wonder if it could be a self-fueled process if you released the gas under it and burned it in an old gas stove element.
It can at least help/improve efficiency!
I *think* burners may need to be modified / custom made (i need to grab the name, but there is a TH-cam channel that does stuff like this really well and it seems do-able!) due to the air/fuel mis being optimized for methane or propane, not wood pyrolysis gas or maybe more pure syngas, but yeah. (Granted *just a bent tube with a flashback arrestor could probably work too lol* )
Neat ideas though, and I wonder if there could be *collaboration* on all this / maybe a competition like the #SpeedBoatRace / “Speed Benchies” did for 3d printing, but for charcoal.
Cross Promotion, Hype, and just in general a bunch of tinkering + designing!
That's what I expected to see when he mentioned a Retort kiln.
Ones I have seen were a 45 gallon drum on its side with what was the bottom cut off and refitted as a door. A scaffold pole is attached with plumbing fittings to the cap hole and 2 90 degree bends to run it underneath with the end capped. Holes are drilled in the pole for gasses to escape.
The barrel is filled with wood and the door sealed. A fire underneath gets the process started and is reduced while it is running.
When it's hot enough the wood gas is ignited under the barrel by the fire and helps heat it. When the gas stops, the charcoal is cooked.
An improvement would be a spaced off cover with flue to keep the fire around and over the barrel. Further improvement is a blanket over that cover.
Whilst trying to build these kilns, perhaps bring out tornado more to help out a little more, not only could he bring supplies up to the kiln sight as your working on it, it would also work for an opportunity to find out how much tornado can pull in his current form
Or try to push all the wagons with Tornado.
Yes pushing the wagons with tornade
Why, if pushing them works fine? He’s explained previously that he doesn’t really have a use for it until the large extension is built. It would just require more time and effort to get it prepared.
@@harryrobinson2901 touche
@@harryrobinson2901 to test tornados strenght ofcourse.
Gotta love work flowing as intended. Tweaks aside, this will be very efficient for your old shoestrings to keep running. Cheers.
You seem to be enjoying a fairytale life. Oh what fun you have. Wish I lived next door. 😊😊😊😊😊
very cool, love this kind of project! could add a little metal child's slide from where the chips drop that leads to the hopper, then a hog door at the bottom for "control"
Great work guys.
I just got a five hundred gallon propane tank that I am tweaking into a coke oven, I just cut a hole in both sides and it work great. Your local propane delivery company probably has a few sitting around that don’t hold gas anymore.
Nice lesson on the chemistry of charcoal... thanks! 😁😎👍
with the bar you are going to remove on the log carts, you can regain some of that reinforcement by putting a couple chunky pieces of steel across the front and back with the hitch mounted to that then use strips of steel down the side of the cart to connect the ends. it might not be as strong as the steel bar but its better than just the wood frame.
I am very excited about your announced heat storage project. The idea of somehow storing excess thermal energy from the charcoal production process for later use sounds quite ambitious at first glance...
I have only seen something like this on a FAR BIGGER and industrial scale until now!?
Nice work Tim. Love to see some "smithing" with the retort charcoal.
I 110% loved it Tim, all the while learning some neat stuff, Thanks so much!
11:35 Perhaps have a sort of conveyor, or even passive ramp like one would have for soda cans!, that has numerous kilns like that gradually travel through the heat then drop out to be emptied?
Would have the simplicity of that genius kiln of yours, with a more continuous nature.
Could even use a cooling rack/bath pre-opening them to prevent that spontaneous combustion issue you mentioned!
I like the video. I believe it is educational more than anything else. Charcoal is coming back strongly in the following few years. For the track, enjoy your hobby man.
Well done👍👍👍Thank you for sharing. Take care of yourselves, be safe, and healthy 🇨🇦
A recommendation; as someone who uses homemade charcoal for blacksmithing: loads of information online (and people you meet) will say all sorts of warnings about "don't use such and such charcoal, it won't burn hot enough" or that charcoal has to be made to be super hard high-temperature hardwood char or else it won't work.
I've used it all; they're incorrect, I think it's because so many smiths (here in Ontario at least) use coking coal and few try charcoal, fewer still make their own char, but you can in my experience reach temperatures well over the burning and melting point of steel easily with ANY charcoal - Provided critically that it be dry. I've even forged in ashy stuff sifted out of a campfire pit that had been rained on and dried in the sun; it all works but won't burn well until it's dried a few moments in the forge's heat. All charcoal is porous and collects moisture over time, this is okay and barring drenching the stuff moisture won't ruin it for forging. Hard high-temp hardwood or softwood charcoal genuinely burns nicer and gives less sparks/embers in the forced air of the tuyere, but even fluffy porous stuff burns hot, if with more ash and crinkling than ideal.
Thanks, Nick. Yes, I'm looking forward to leaning more when I get a chance to experiment.
I’m really enjoying the wisdom. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
16:00 interesting talk about charcoal..thanks
Wow! To see it all come together after all this time is fantastic. Great video Tim!
Pyro-technicality perfectly explained and sausages too 😀
Thank you guiys. I really enjoy watching the videos and I always learn something new. 👍👍
Thank you! Looks/sounds exciting. Very much looking forward to watching in the evening. Hope you are well!
you can make a steel wagon for the charcoal with left-over metal and making a box with it so you can carry charcoal and activated charcoal to where it's gonna get grinded and with a loco motive i'd suggest using your rocket boiler to supply the power as what most fireless engines did, using the steam from factory boilers to power themselfs like what tornado is or you can make a flatbed and put a gas motor and a barrel to supply the fuel. and make a quick and easy diesel loco for your expanding railway
What a milestone!
Yes! Very exciting.
Very nice ; because I didn’t have a cone kiln I made charcoal ina a bucket and it worked! Thanks this is why I tried making chat coal; I didn’t think it would be so easy!
Airtight lid is better than water, because then, all the volatiles can escape while it remains hot.
With water, you basically quench the reaction and some volatiles/tar that burn with bright flame, remain back.
Charcoal is also nice to insulate garden shed etc. doesn't rot, keeps constant humidity by absorbing/releasing water vapor and isn't ugly stuff such as rock wool.
OMG WE'RE TIPPING THE WOODCHIPS LET'S GOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
18:02 Some ideas for Grinding:
In-Sink Wet Food Waste Grinders (“Insinkerator” is a brand, we often call them “Garbage Disposals” or “Kitchen Grinders” here in the USA) work really well, although they make small particle size if that isn’t what you want (although you could then pelletize/press that into bricks/briquettes maybe!)
Granted that option may be a bit pricy. If you use it for compost too, the surface area increase speeds things up dramatically!
Another option may be a ball mill that runs off of an old cement mixer, your stationary engine, or maybe even a crank/bike? I would think any sort of drum filled with charcoal and ball bearings/rocks etc would work well, maybe with bar stock for lifting stuff as it spins?
Finally a Hammer Mill or Jaw Crusher could be used. Granted high power need, and a major safety hazard (so use proper guarding/shields etc, want ground charcoal, not hands!), but they are pretty simple and that may be nice. Also some good designs around TH-cam and whatnot already.
Either way i wish you luck on all that!
Thanks, Eric. I've been looking into all those grinder designs - and others - but I'm still not sure which to build
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 a wood chipper seems like the ideal setup....the chips they put out seem almost ideal size for charcoal briquettes.... from my chair they look right anyway lol this is really cool, grateful to have found your channel
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 I’d second the ball mill idea. I use a much smaller scale setup to grind charcoal for making black powder for antique firearms- it’s a large metal bucket chucked up in my lathe, filled with lead balls. It gives a very consistent, repeatable grind when run at the same speed and duration. I’d recommend using brass or another soft metal as your balls though, so sense in contaminating your soil additive with lead! Avoid steel agitators, though, they’ll spark against the drum and each other and could make the whole thing go up in smoke!
Great video. I've never seen anyone have a retort above the cone before. I've done something similar to make use of the heat. I look forward to seeing what plans you've got to harness even more of the escaping heat.
I like your approach to wood burning in regards to environmentalism, I hear a lot about how it's not ecological cuz it's fire, but those people seem to disregard that the main problem with burnables is that most of them are carbon dragged up from under the earth and added to the cycle, while wood burning is just an alternative way of closing it.
I once built a batch-type charcoal retort in support of my pyrotechnics hobby. 20L stainless-steel stock pot (purchased at a kitchen discounter store in Toronto for almost nothing). The supporting fire was in a 200L barrel that I'd lower the retort in to. OK, for small batches, but not for anything "at scale".
The little chat about co2 is all well and good, so long as you're growing more trees than your chopping down.
Learning.
This is really getting interesting now!
I am in awe. So much knowledge. Love the kindly demeanor/ attitude.
I believe I'm going to subscribe. Kudos
That's amazing!!!
I'm so infatuated with where this is going. I cannot WAIT to see what else is coming!
I love the 20 minute videos and i learn soo much more awesome videos tim much love from Goderich Ontario Canada
You could always use the semi charded wood from the retort to start the fire for your next batch of charcoal to 😊
Great Videos! Make my day better! keep it up!
The addition of a water filled auger at the bottom of the kiln may work . Initially fill the kiln base with gravel to build the fire on . Once there is a sufficient amount of charcoal , the auger could be turned , pulling the charcoal out allowing more space for more biomass . The water filled auger would need a constant supply and could be nutrient rich
Copper coil in the chimney connected to a heat exchange, circulate water through the coil to capture the heat. Works great in fireplaces to pump heat in the house that would otherwise go up the flue.
And that copper coil connected to a hot tub that will be just at the perfect temperature at the end of a hard day of work.
Made for very interesting viewing bro and your technical stuff is interesting to listen to too. Safe travels
Chemist here. I don't want to lecture you. You should do this, you are wrong in that detail there. No, I just wanted to say: You are performing some interesting experiments there! Hard work, open mind, gentle character, creative solutions. Keep it up:)
Wow!... all the charcoal!
What I'm learning is great. Thanks
I like that you did the taste test on the charcoal 😋
Very educational Tim! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the education.... Jolly good.
Well that was quite the education!
Steam cools in the chamber, one of the reasons to vent and use the off gas as a reburn.
I put a retort like that inside my outdoor burner, also self-built. I have a 4-part series on my channel plus the charcoal kiln operating.
When plants die, some of the carbon can be stored in the ground in the form of peat, instead of being released into the air.
Hi Tim. That was very interesting 🤔
15:10 The most important piece of equipment - the Afternoon Tea Tray!
Just love watching you Tim your a genius and we love Ireland 🇮🇪 it’s amazing what you do.We would rather be there than here with this lot of Muppets.Love to Sandra and peace and respect and Good luck 🤞.
Loved the longer video, Tim!!!
Super awesome.
A few of my thoughts.
You need a set of tracks down in the kiln area. I do not know how much deeper you can go in that area. Either way I think I would do about that size of the kiln as you could almost make them tipping dumping kilns to which you could then tip out on to a conveyor and then send it up to the tracks to waiting carts.
The wet down process in my mind would be to fill the cone kiln up then release the water back to a tank that can settle out the water and then be pumped back up to a tank/tower.
The transferring of the wood to the kiln is going to be a big of back breaking work from what I gather and see.
How I see it in my mind is the kilns on a track. Which I am not sure how that could be done due to the wheels needing to roll. The kiln move in front of the chute and fire is started and loaded then pushed away and another one is moved in place where another fire is started and moved away again then one moved back in place topped off and so on. These kilns could then be filled with water in their place cooled and drained and tipped on to a conveyor of sorts.
Either way its a super cool project and I would love to build a kiln and make some charcoal as well. Though I would mainly use it in one of those old coal cook stoves for heat and cooking in the winter. I want to build an outdoor gazebo type thing where it has a place to hang out in the winter and cook out and stay warm.
Well done! I was a bit concern about unloading the cart - but in the end it work well enough.
Hi Tim! What about storing the excess energy in a battery…, that would be very useful as it is storage for mid long term!
Capture energy:
first use the heat to create steam, use the steam pressure to power a turbine, which then turns a dynamo.
You were saying about preheating the Chips to drive off that last bit of moisture, would feeding the Kiln with an Auger work for that? a slow steady addition of chips to the center of the fire so that the wood preheats a bit before dropping. That should alow the water vapor to go away above the combustion layer and keep the fire hotter. it would also make it closer to a continuous feed than currently.
Another addition I thought of, a trapdoor at the bottom of the kiln to a hopper/bunker to drain the water at teh end and bring out the charcoal easily and quickly for another firing.
Tim, great job. I know you have the cars set, but I think if you were to put doors on the side of the cart and the kiln to the side of the tracks, you wouldn't have so much work moving the chips. Think of them as side dump cars per se or how they would use chutes to load coal into a canal boat.
if you can get your chips to a relatively uniform size (easier said than done) you could make a pretty slick hopper to pump the chips into the kiln. maybe a screw pump or a conveyer and feed it right from the rail car but the fun part would be pumping the char up the hill, into a char car.
Hi Tim. I've got a couple of ideas and I wanted to fully develope them before suggesting to you, but I can't. I've got stuck. One idea is what if you use a series of retorts and only half fill them and then rotate them while in the fire. This might make for a more consistent result.
using retort, its mouch better to have slow rotation applied, kinda like a rotisery chicken, where the contents get mixed more and you have less unaffected wood in the centre
Another really interesting video! Thanks Tim!
I had a go at charcoal making in a retort, lots of fun. Very smelly. Hit and miss, yet I got a lot of charcoal at the end of the process. Might cook with it given the cost of gas now.
Awesome video, love to see what you come up with
Hurrah! Lovely!
Good work Tim. I enjoy watching your projects and I wish I was there to lend a hand. Have you considered using the wood gas to aid in heating the retort?
Your mig welds look quite good
Edible Acres -channel does small batches of charcoal in a retort (a stainless steel "hotel pan") while heating their home with a wood stove.
I wonder if there is a way you could empty the charcoal out of the bottom of the cone kiln as you add fuel to the top
Concrete blocks are used to slow release heat in electric storage heaters.
I've heard that salt and be molten into a liquid and is good at storing lots of heat.
Common salt melts at 800 degrees Centigrade/Kelvin good luck with that!!
Before solar PV got cheap there were some solar thermal schemes that used concentrated light to ultimately melt salts as a heat transfer/storage mechanism. I love Tim's historically inspired projects, but I would be curious to see some modern retrospective engineering as well. Some things we have in the modern world would have been possible with the technologies of the past, we just didn't know!
Love all your videos keep them coming 😊
You now need a threaded bung. To drain the water out and rain water when not in used.
Keep your eye out for 4 rubber tires
Make a rolling A frame. To make it easy to lift and move heavy things. Wood or steel, what materials are available.
Will be fun to see just how black you get. When you grind the char coal. Be warn about sparks. We don't want to hear about any explosions 😬
Very interesting.
Looks like you need a way to drain the water from the kiln. It also looks like you need a girder crane with a chainfall to help you with the retort, especially if you have more than one. The water pipe also needs a valve at the end to help control the output.
I was planning to just tip it out!
A fine sausage indeed xD
For strengthening the carts, Id suggest just putting the steel round the outside, which I dont think will affect the wood frames, since wood is usually quite good in compression
Super informative and Super interesting, thank you guys.
Heat storage. Many decades ago there was an article either in Popular Mechanics, Mother Earth News or a magazine of similar thought; there was a heat storage using an underground room filled with rock. The rock was large enough to allow air movement. The rock would then absorb heat or release it depending on the temperature of the air flowing into the chamber. If you used corrugated tube and gravel could you store the heat in the soil and gravel?
Concerning the decomposition-stability of charcoal: Most bio-char/charcoal wont come close to lasting 2000 years in its original form. Not even the carbon will last that long. Usual charcoal is fully broken down after anything between one and one hundred years. The stable carbon compound fraction is what matters here, and it depends on a plethora of factors. Heat for example. Hotter pyrolysis will give more SC, but less yield overall. Feedstock material is another easy to adjust factor. Hardwood (specially oak) produce higher amounts of SC as well. Now I know that the sequestration of carbon is not the main focus of most bio-char users, just wanted to set this straight. Awesome video as always! I am looking very much forward to upcoming improvements on the system!
Thanks, there is a lot of conflicting talk about how long it lasts in the soil, so I'm happy to keep learning
Saftey sandles for welding in Will , let any sparks out !!
So now that you have a big cone of soaking wet charcoal, how do you plan to drain off the charcoal broth and dry the charcoal?
You'll have to keep watching : - )
So interesting and mesmerising. I learned a lot.