thanks for the video. I just dense packed an 1894 plaster and lathe investment property and it worked exactly as the video shows. Thanks to the plexiglass view, I really had an understanding of exactly what was going on in the wall. I managed to stuff this house with an unbelievable quantity of cellulose! That's one less uninsulated house in the world. Thanks!
Just a suggestion... when mentioning how to densely pack the wall, that the guy listens for the machine to start to work harder before moving the hose...maybe it would be a good idea to mute the background music so the viewer can hear the machine/blower as well... so if attempting this job, there would be a little reference as to what to listen for.
Great video. Best one yet. Just a suggestion... How about trying the demonstration without the plexiglass and then pulling away the drywall just to see how it turns out. It's obviously easier when you can see it being blown in. Thanks!
Cincinnati Flem exactly what I was thinking, easy to pack to much into the wall and blow the sheet rock off the wall because of too much built up air pressure if not carful , it’s tricky in real life application when you can’t see into the wall cavity
Very thorough presentation, thanks- and it tells you enough about technique so you can see what kind of job you're getting when you sub out this work. Just blowing it in isn't enough, so it is a big help to watch this first.
Thank you VERY much !! This is exactly the type of information/education I was looking for ! I've never done blown-in insulation before and I wondered what the differences were between loose pack and dense pack, and also the benefits of drilling low, medium, or high holes to install the material. Your video not only explained everything clearly step-by-step, but scientifically analyzed the amount of insulation material installed by each method. Again, thank you SO much !!!
Thanks for this video, it has been very informative. However, I was wondering if you could you do the same demonstration, but with a wall with existing fiberglass batting? I would like to see the process and how well it actually works with existing batting obstructing the fill.
I was really interested in learning how to do dense packing, and did find the video somewhat helpful. The problem is, at the beginning of the video, you mentioned listening for the sound change to indicate when the cavity is full. However, for each of the four different wall sections, there was music on the video that (to my ears) completely obliterated the sound of the machine as the cavity reached full density. Thus, we watchers/listeners were not able to learn the sound change for which we were instructed to listen. The problem is, when it is a previously-built lath or drywall constructed wall, one doesn't have the benefit of seeing the fill and density happen through clear plastic, but the installer can only rely on the sound change . . . which I couldn't hear because of the music. So, I was pretty disappointed that I was not able to hear the very specific sound for which you were trying to teach us to listen.
You will be able to hear the sound change,it sounds like its filling to now its filled. There should NOT be,but there is pointless music behind everything in this country. I did this job to 4 homes with a Kirby vacume,removed the roller brush taped off the suction hole to measure about 6 to 8 in wide, fed cellulose into the suction hole by hand,it was not high speed work but it worked perfect.Then patch the hole in the sheetrock with the 2 in wide sheetrock you cut out.The sheet rock cookee you patch the hole with could not be cheaper,a pro company wanted $1.00 each for a tapered wooden plug. I thought to much $$ for a simple piece of wood. Enjoy. Mike
WOW... Brads really got a feel on how to pack those cavities... all he has to do is watch his progress through the plexiglass. I guess now I'll have to replace my sheetrock with plexiglass. What a stupid deminstration!
I have a house built in 1959 i need to insulate the walls and attic, but i have fount a fire break at about 40" forty inches on all exterior walls, there is a tar paper barrier on the exterior of studs with wood slat paneling. enjoyed your info video it has been very informative.
Why don't you run the tube from the top to the bottom and wait for it to labor and pull it up a little at a time? Wouldn't that dense pack the wall? Or am I missing something?............. Good vid...
That's what I do fill the bottome before you angle it up. By the time you get to the hole filling it from the bottom the insulation is only 4 to 6 inches above the hole so it's still easy to get the tube in.
I don't see how he's going to get that stiff vinyl hose into a drywall hole if it takes that much pressure to get it in place. Working through a hole in a wood plank is one thing, but you put that much pressure on drywall and you're going to break out that hole.
A terrific video that shows how important it is to choose a reliable contractor. In such a cavity you would prefer to use x-jet 63 blow-in nozzle from X-Floc GmbH, though. Świetny film pokazujący dlaczego wybór wykonawcy i narzędzi ma znaczenie. Przy ocieplaniu takich przegród korzystniej jest wybrać dyszę odpowietrzaną x-jet 63 lub igłę do wdmuchiwania Einblasnadel z firmy X-Floc GmbH.
True. In the field I rely on watching the rate of the cellulose going through the clear tube and the sound of the blower. If a section of the larger tubes is being backlit by the sun I’ll also keep an eye on that.
why wouldn't you just start from the top, put the hose down to the bottom and dense pack it all the way up and not have to reinsert the hose ?. I ask this because I don't know anything about doing this. Thank you.
More information which might be handy:. What were your are settings to get that capacity? How much insulation did it require to fill that one wall? How do you calculate how much insulation you will need? Nice music by the way, thought I heard it in a porn video.
To echo what others have said... Most of us... Well, none of us have a plexiglass wall in our homes and cannot see how well we are packing. How about a video that applies to most of us where we have a hole at the top or center of a cavity, or perhaps the upper 6" of the cavity cut away because we had to run electrical or data wires thru the wall but want to insulate it before putting the rock back up? In the latter example (which applies to me), how would you recommend keeping the insulation from blowing out from the large opening at the top? Would you put the hose all the way to the bottom? And then slowly pulled up as it fills? Would you go ahead and close up the hole and then cut a smaller one for just the hose? Would you maybe make a temporary 'cap' for the top opening so you can fill to the too, then remove the cal and replace the rock? What about using this in an exterior wall cavity (like in Texas)? Would you recommend, or not? What about vapor/moisture barriers? How do you go from a bigger holes which is normally the host that you get when you rent from Home Depot or Lowe's, down to a smaller size hose? Great video, but still many unanswered questions.
I realize that this is a pretty old comment, but it would actually be helpful if you could explain WHY you understand that Green Fiber is one of the worst cellulose products and maybe recommend another manufacturer or two.
But in reality you do not see if the space is already filled up or not! And ... will not the weight of the cellulose after some time having pressed down from above to below, making gaps above and to much densly packed cellulose below? Also variations in temperature and humidity and possibly some airflow from tiny gaps may dislocate or deform cellulose distribution or its isolation properties.
@Edgar Kaufmann LOTS of holes. I’m blowing my house myself so I can take more time than someone trying to make a living would. My house has wood siding so I mark the wood stud locations and pencil in light lines showing their location. That shows me the best location for drilling each hole.
What is the diameter of the plastic hose at the end? The only machine I can rent from local big orange has a 3" corregated hose and I suspect that this hose would be too flexible to allow the dense packing that we are aiming for.
The best is a 1 1/4 inch hose with reducers down from the 3 inch hose The f/2 they use is the best dense pack machine for this application Bill Jewell Insulation Technology Corp (INTEC)
Hi Justin. I was planning on blowing in cellulose insulation in a couple months. Could you please explain what you mean buy "insulation on the face of those studs." How would you prevent insulation NOT contacting the studs? Also, what do you do to prevent "blowing out the sheetrock"? Thank you for any feedback. - Dave from Iowa
@@DavidDouglasZach You need to have the sheet rock secure. Usually it is. But some people cheap out and use staples. Which I think stupid. It works really well. However each home is different and requires a inspection to see what works best 👌 Climate and home construction is key
I do it all the time. You need a 3 inch hole saw. If drilling through more than 1 layer then you need to drill 2 holes on top of each other to get tube at a good angle to force up. Sometimes it gets stuck on the back of the plaster. You just have kinda go in the hole sideways before you go up or down so the end doesnt fetch up.
In the world where, unbeknownst to you, friction exists and makes the whole freakin' difference between glass and drywall paper backing. Opaqueness, also. But that's just crazy, right?
For the first time I'm really seeing potential problems with inexperienced DIYers doing this job on their own. If you don't know what you're doing you could really have a serious issue before too long as things settle.
The grey color of the cellulose shows that poisionous print colors are still in the insulating cellulose. Is it so expensive to wash out those poisons?
Does it always settle to the bottom or does it leave random gaps within any length of wall-- I would not mind if it is simply a matter of filling from the top, since I will always have access.
I don't know where you are getting your calculations from but 8lbs 10oz is not a density of 4.1 lbs per cu ft if those cavities are 14.5"x3.5"x96". The weight would have to be 11.55 lbs of cellulose.
Blake, the 8 lb 10 oz was the weight of the insulation and tarp for the first bay, which they say came out to 2.4 lb/ft^3. So if the tarp is about 1.5 lbs, and the insulation was 6.9 lbs then this is correct.
@@berthull9333 hi Bert, If the cavity is (14.5" x 3.5" x 96" = 4872"/1728 cu ft = 2.81 cu ft) then, 2.81 cu ft x 4.1 lbs would = 11.5 lbs of cellulose and not 6.9 lbs.
@@meblake7359 you are right. they weighed the bays in reverse order that they filled them. I missed that. either they edited out of order, or they mis-calculated the densities, as you said. nice catch!
I see it now. The last cavity is not as wide as the others. I wish they would have stated that because the whole point is that you can pack denser depending on how you approach the cavity.
Cannot see a company spending that much time on every cavity. You're just not going to get that result in the real world. And probably not even close to the result on the first hole. Sure, if you had a see through wall and stood there watching him, you'd be able to argue about when it is full. But in the real world, this is not going to happen. And this is why I prefer spray foam.
truth teller Are you suggesting spray foam does not expand to fill cavities? Hahahaha! Surely you jest. Just how much real world experience have you had with insulation? Let me give you a lesson on insulation. Insulation is absolutely worthless unless it used in conjunction with a complete vapour barrier. You can argue all you like on that point, but it is a fact. The truth is, Spray foam forms a vapour barrier, and adds strength to a wall. So, two things, for the price of one. That fluffy crap is useless as an insulator. It allows hot and cold air to pass right through, in the presence of a draft. So how is that effective insulation? It's not! You do not understand insulation, and that's the problem with the industry. Too many cowboys playing the hero, with zero education.
truth teller You just want to argue. You're clearly think name calling is substitute for intelligent comments, but it isn't. It simply proves you have nothing of worth to add. Open cell is still a hundred times more effective than that fluffy, useless rubbish. And yes, open cell can be installed in existing walls in exactly the same way. But why bother insulating if you're not going to do it right? Do the job properly, or not at all. My original comments still stand. Pull the plaster board off and do it right. Closed cell spray foam, every time.
truth teller Can't you read? Closed cell, every time, I said. I'd never use open cell. And I'd never use that fluffy crap either, it's a mold trap. And just so you know, there are many different weights of spray foam, from heavy closed all the way to open and everything in between. just depends on how you mix it. So when you want to brag about how much you know, remember, all spray foams are not equal. And I never changed my mind about closed spray foam? I never mentioned closed or open, you did. I'd never use open, not even if it was free. i'd pull off my plaster board and do it right. And you shouldn't talk, since you've been trying to support that fluffy crap in the video, all along. So, now you've had a lesson on spray foam.
truth teller I don't need google sites, I use closed cell spray foam on all my jobs. I know what it is and i know how to use it. I'm done with you. I've read back through all my comments and cannot understand why you insist I've changed my story? Ha! As i said, you just like to argue. No amount of reason or information will change your mind. You go ahead, fill your walls with crap. I'll stick to the good stuff.
truth teller What the hell kind of English is that? Hahahaha. All I said was, "OPEN CELL is still a hundred times more effective than that fluffy, useless rubbish." I never said it was the best. Closed cell is what I use and I'm pretty sure I made that clear. Your argument seems to be focused on what I'm saying, rather than your original point. So, I take it you've changed your mind on that fluffy rubbish and realize spray foam CAN be sprayed into existing wall cavities. (You must have done a few google searches yourself.) ROFL. I know how you hate that. And if you are struggling to sort through the 6 comments I've now made to find one statement? Well, you just can't read. Or, maybe you lack understanding. Go take an English 101 class. Educate yourself.
thanks for the video. I just dense packed an 1894 plaster and lathe investment property and it worked exactly as the video shows. Thanks to the plexiglass view, I really had an understanding of exactly what was going on in the wall. I managed to stuff this house with an unbelievable quantity of cellulose! That's one less uninsulated house in the world. Thanks!
Just a suggestion... when mentioning how to densely pack the wall, that the guy listens for the machine to start to work harder before moving the hose...maybe it would be a good idea to mute the background music so the viewer can hear the machine/blower as well... so if attempting this job, there would be a little reference as to what to listen for.
Nothing like a little porno background music
@@mattalbrecht7471 seems the porn theme plays nicely with their dialogue as well...😂
Great video. Best one yet. Just a suggestion... How about trying the demonstration without the plexiglass and then pulling away the drywall just to see how it turns out. It's obviously easier when you can see it being blown in. Thanks!
Cincinnati Flem exactly what I was thinking, easy to pack to much into the wall and blow the sheet rock off the wall because of too much built up air pressure if not carful , it’s tricky in real life application when you can’t see into the wall cavity
Very thorough presentation, thanks- and it tells you enough about technique so you can see what kind of job you're getting when you sub out this work. Just blowing it in isn't enough, so it is a big help to watch this first.
Thank you VERY much !! This is exactly the type of information/education I was looking for ! I've never done blown-in insulation before and I wondered what the differences were between loose pack and dense pack, and also the benefits of drilling low, medium, or high holes to install the material. Your video not only explained everything clearly step-by-step, but scientifically analyzed the amount of insulation material installed by each method.
Again, thank you SO much !!!
Thanks for this video, it has been very informative. However, I was wondering if you could you do the same demonstration, but with a wall with existing fiberglass batting? I would like to see the process and how well it actually works with existing batting obstructing the fill.
I was really interested in learning how to do dense packing, and did find the video somewhat helpful. The problem is, at the beginning of the video, you mentioned listening for the sound change to indicate when the cavity is full. However, for each of the four different wall sections, there was music on the video that (to my ears) completely obliterated the sound of the machine as the cavity reached full density. Thus, we watchers/listeners were not able to learn the sound change for which we were instructed to listen. The problem is, when it is a previously-built lath or drywall constructed wall, one doesn't have the benefit of seeing the fill and density happen through clear plastic, but the installer can only rely on the sound change . . . which I couldn't hear because of the music. So, I was pretty disappointed that I was not able to hear the very specific sound for which you were trying to teach us to listen.
You will be able to hear the sound change,it sounds like its filling to now its filled. There should NOT be,but there is pointless music behind everything in this country. I did this job to 4 homes with a Kirby vacume,removed the roller brush taped off the suction hole to measure about 6 to 8 in wide, fed cellulose into the suction hole by hand,it was not high speed work but it worked perfect.Then patch the hole in the sheetrock with the 2 in wide sheetrock you cut out.The sheet rock cookee you patch the hole with could not be cheaper,a pro company wanted $1.00 each for a tapered wooden plug. I thought to much $$ for a simple piece of wood. Enjoy. Mike
Absolute best video out there on retrofit cellulose
Great video so you know the people you may have doing are doing it correctly.
WOW... Brads really got a feel on how to pack those cavities... all he has to do is watch his progress through the plexiglass. I guess now I'll have to replace my sheetrock with plexiglass. What a stupid deminstration!
Well at least you could see if mice were living in the wall
I have a house built in 1959 i need to insulate the walls and attic, but i have fount a fire break at about 40" forty inches on all exterior walls, there is a tar paper barrier on the exterior of studs with wood slat paneling. enjoyed your info video it has been very informative.
Did you ever blow the insulation in, I've got a house the same age. And, wanted to see how difficult or costly the job was.
Which hose attachment would be needed to place on the blower hose in order to do this? Diameter, etc.
Nicely done! thanks, I needed to explain this to someone and this is perfect
Why don't you run the tube from the top to the bottom and wait for it to labor and pull it up a little at a time? Wouldn't that dense pack the wall?
Or am I missing something?.............
Good vid...
That's what I do fill the bottome before you angle it up. By the time you get to the hole filling it from the bottom the insulation is only 4 to 6 inches above the hole so it's still easy to get the tube in.
I'm trying to figure out how to calculate how much insulation it takes per cavity.
I don't see how he's going to get that stiff vinyl hose into a drywall hole if it takes that much pressure to get it in place. Working through a hole in a wood plank is one thing, but you put that much pressure on drywall and you're going to break out that hole.
A terrific video that shows how important it is to choose a reliable contractor. In such a cavity you would prefer to use x-jet 63 blow-in nozzle from X-Floc GmbH, though.
Świetny film pokazujący dlaczego wybór wykonawcy i narzędzi ma znaczenie. Przy ocieplaniu takich przegród korzystniej jest wybrać dyszę odpowietrzaną x-jet 63 lub igłę do wdmuchiwania Einblasnadel z firmy X-Floc GmbH.
Thanks for the great vid.
Seems so easy because in the demo you can easily see the cavity being filled.
Not the case in real life...unfortunately
True. In the field I rely on watching the rate of the cellulose going through the clear tube and the sound of the blower. If a section of the larger tubes is being backlit by the sun I’ll also keep an eye on that.
why wouldn't you just start from the top, put the hose down to the bottom and dense pack it all the way up and not have to reinsert the hose ?. I ask this because I don't know anything about doing this. Thank you.
When filling a glass with water to you fill from the top or bottom? Doesn't matter still have to go back and top/ pack it dense.
Filling it from the top on a second floor is a long way up and down
This video was very helpful. Excellent.
What about the common horizontal fire break ??
More information which might be handy:. What were your are settings to get that capacity? How much insulation did it require to fill that one wall? How do you calculate how much insulation you will need?
Nice music by the way, thought I heard it in a porn video.
What is there is old fiberglass insulation already in the wall ?
To echo what others have said... Most of us... Well, none of us have a plexiglass wall in our homes and cannot see how well we are packing. How about a video that applies to most of us where we have a hole at the top or center of a cavity, or perhaps the upper 6" of the cavity cut away because we had to run electrical or data wires thru the wall but want to insulate it before putting the rock back up?
In the latter example (which applies to me), how would you recommend keeping the insulation from blowing out from the large opening at the top? Would you put the hose all the way to the bottom? And then slowly pulled up as it fills? Would you go ahead and close up the hole and then cut a smaller one for just the hose? Would you maybe make a temporary 'cap' for the top opening so you can fill to the too, then remove the cal and replace the rock?
What about using this in an exterior wall cavity (like in Texas)? Would you recommend, or not? What about vapor/moisture barriers?
How do you go from a bigger holes which is normally the host that you get when you rent from Home Depot or Lowe's, down to a smaller size hose?
Great video, but still many unanswered questions.
Have a question! Why used all the holes?
That looks like vinyl tubing which is thick and not very flexible. Is there a better type of hose?
Would I be able to do this in a metal studded wall and if so how much of it do you think would blow to the next cavity.?
not a bad idea. but those wooden 2x4 still act like thermal bridges and transport cold temps.
Build with a SIP wall system to get rid of the thermal bridges.
Can you sense pack as you go?
I wish they could do a sound pass thru test
I realize that this is a pretty old comment, but it would actually be helpful if you could explain WHY you understand that Green Fiber is one of the worst cellulose products and maybe recommend another manufacturer or two.
But in reality you do not see if the space is already filled up or not!
And ... will not the weight of the cellulose after some time having pressed down from above to below, making gaps above and to much densly packed cellulose below? Also variations in temperature and humidity and possibly some airflow from tiny gaps may dislocate or deform cellulose distribution or its isolation properties.
Dose this help with sound???
Yes it does
In reality there will be not always straight walls without any blocking things. How do you cope with this?
@Edgar Kaufmann LOTS of holes. I’m blowing my house myself so I can take more time than someone trying to make a living would. My house has wood siding so I mark the wood stud locations and pencil in light lines showing their location. That shows me the best location for drilling each hole.
What is the diameter of the plastic hose at the end? The only machine I can rent from local big orange has a 3" corregated hose and I suspect that this hose would be too flexible to allow the dense packing that we are aiming for.
The best is a 1 1/4 inch hose with reducers down from the 3 inch hose The f/2 they use is the best dense pack machine for this application Bill Jewell Insulation Technology Corp (INTEC)
@norman 23 I’ve never seen dense pack hoses rented. But some of the big box stores sell them or you might luck out on EBay.
I think if we could watch Brad without noise we could figure it out.
Everywhere you see cellulose on the face of those studs, consider that blown off sheetrock.
Hi Justin. I was planning on blowing in cellulose insulation in a couple months. Could you please explain what you mean buy "insulation on the face of those studs." How would you prevent insulation NOT contacting the studs? Also, what do you do to prevent "blowing out the sheetrock"? Thank you for any feedback. - Dave from Iowa
@@DavidDouglasZach You need to have the sheet rock secure. Usually it is. But some people cheap out and use staples. Which I think stupid. It works really well. However each home is different and requires a inspection to see what works best 👌
Climate and home construction is key
If that was a plaster wall there's no way he could force that tube up the wall.
I do it all the time. You need a 3 inch hole saw. If drilling through more than 1 layer then you need to drill 2 holes on top of each other to get tube at a good angle to force up. Sometimes it gets stuck on the back of the plaster. You just have kinda go in the hole sideways before you go up or down so the end doesnt fetch up.
@Dylan Fenimore I also cut the end of the tube at a long slant to help it from hanging up.
what is this tool caslled\
What means "Dense Packing"??? Why?
In the world where, unbeknownst to you, friction exists and makes the whole freakin' difference between glass and drywall paper backing. Opaqueness, also. But that's just crazy, right?
Easy when you can see where the gaps are but in the real world all the installer can do is guess
new construction has plastic and you can see through it
God help the poor SOB who has to open these walls.
For the first time I'm really seeing potential problems with inexperienced DIYers doing this job on their own. If you don't know what you're doing you could really have a serious issue before too long as things settle.
That's gotta be hard on the wrists and fingers if you're doing that all day long. Arthritis and carpal tunnel syndrome anyone?
ur beard could have insulated the whole wall
good vid
The grey color of the cellulose shows that poisionous print colors are still in the insulating cellulose. Is it so expensive to wash out those poisons?
I've had to go back on a 14 ft wall and redo a settle of 2 ft
Does it always settle to the bottom or does it leave random gaps within any length of wall-- I would not mind if it is simply a matter of filling from the top, since I will always have access.
like the bolts to hold together.. "typical house wall"...you wpould've blown the drywall off in a 'normal' house..
'
@richard michalko Fortunately undamaged plaster and lath walls usually do fine.
I don't know where you are getting your calculations from but 8lbs 10oz is not a density of 4.1 lbs per cu ft if those cavities are 14.5"x3.5"x96". The weight would have to be 11.55 lbs of cellulose.
Blake, the 8 lb 10 oz was the weight of the insulation and tarp for the first bay, which they say came out to 2.4 lb/ft^3. So if the tarp is about 1.5 lbs, and the insulation was 6.9 lbs then this is correct.
@@berthull9333 hi Bert,
If the cavity is (14.5" x 3.5" x 96" = 4872"/1728 cu ft = 2.81 cu ft) then,
2.81 cu ft x 4.1 lbs would = 11.5 lbs of cellulose and not 6.9 lbs.
@@meblake7359 you are right. they weighed the bays in reverse order that they filled them. I missed that. either they edited out of order, or they mis-calculated the densities, as you said. nice catch!
I see it now. The last cavity is not as wide as the others. I wish they would have stated that because the whole point is that you can pack denser depending on how you approach the cavity.
Gooo Brad
"And just a lot of different factors." A completely MEANINGLESS sentence; Definitely not informative.
I`d like to see it done where the installer cant see what he`s doing as he`s doing it. This does not represent anything actually.
Cannot see a company spending that much time on every cavity. You're just not going to get that result in the real world. And probably not even close to the result on the first hole. Sure, if you had a see through wall and stood there watching him, you'd be able to argue about when it is full. But in the real world, this is not going to happen. And this is why I prefer spray foam.
truth teller
Are you suggesting spray foam does not expand to fill cavities? Hahahaha! Surely you jest.
Just how much real world experience have you had with insulation?
Let me give you a lesson on insulation. Insulation is absolutely worthless unless it used in conjunction with a complete vapour barrier. You can argue all you like on that point, but it is a fact. The truth is, Spray foam forms a vapour barrier, and adds strength to a wall. So, two things, for the price of one.
That fluffy crap is useless as an insulator. It allows hot and cold air to pass right through, in the presence of a draft. So how is that effective insulation? It's not!
You do not understand insulation, and that's the problem with the industry. Too many cowboys playing the hero, with zero education.
truth teller
You just want to argue. You're clearly think name calling is substitute for intelligent comments, but it isn't. It simply proves you have nothing of worth to add.
Open cell is still a hundred times more effective than that fluffy, useless rubbish. And yes, open cell can be installed in existing walls in exactly the same way.
But why bother insulating if you're not going to do it right? Do the job properly, or not at all.
My original comments still stand. Pull the plaster board off and do it right. Closed cell spray foam, every time.
truth teller
Can't you read?
Closed cell, every time, I said. I'd never use open cell. And I'd never use that fluffy crap either, it's a mold trap.
And just so you know, there are many different weights of spray foam, from heavy closed all the way to open and everything in between. just depends on how you mix it. So when you want to brag about how much you know, remember, all spray foams are not equal. And I never changed my mind about closed spray foam? I never mentioned closed or open, you did.
I'd never use open, not even if it was free. i'd pull off my plaster board and do it right.
And you shouldn't talk, since you've been trying to support that fluffy crap in the video, all along.
So, now you've had a lesson on spray foam.
truth teller
I don't need google sites, I use closed cell spray foam on all my jobs. I know what it is and i know how to use it.
I'm done with you. I've read back through all my comments and cannot understand why you insist I've changed my story? Ha! As i said, you just like to argue. No amount of reason or information will change your mind.
You go ahead, fill your walls with crap. I'll stick to the good stuff.
truth teller
What the hell kind of English
is that? Hahahaha.
All I said was, "OPEN CELL is still a hundred times more effective than that fluffy, useless rubbish." I never said it was the best. Closed cell is what I use and I'm pretty sure I made that clear.
Your argument seems to be focused on what I'm saying, rather than your original point. So, I take it you've changed your mind on that fluffy rubbish and realize spray foam CAN be sprayed into existing wall cavities. (You must have done a few google searches yourself.) ROFL. I know how you hate that.
And if you are struggling to sort through the 6 comments I've now made to find one statement? Well, you just can't read. Or, maybe you lack understanding. Go take an English 101 class. Educate yourself.
In reality there will be not always straight walls without any blocking things. How do you cope with this?
drill more holes to fill up all the cavities and use an infrared camera to "see" the coverage level.
What means "Dense Packing"??? Why?