I cant wait to begin using this beautiful technique, it feels easy when you explain and show the work in the videos. Thanks for giving everything step by step so kind of you
.. well that's great Tina becasue it is gone now - replaced a couple of years after the filming by a shiney new one - but I've never again seen the grasses like they were on that day. Thanks for watching and enjoying :)
Love this piece - stunning work and great videos. Thanks for sharing. I am just starting off and your videos are so informative and helpful as well as inspirational.
Thanks Anne. Glad it encourages you. The fence has since been replaced by a new one with shiny galvanised wire, but I did enjoy that day filming this piece : )
In these examples I just used clear wax first to soak into the MDF board. For some approaches I use a mix of 20% white acrylic gesso, 10% white PVA wood glue and 70% water - it depends on what you want to achieve. I do not necessarily want a "white" under surface. I apply this primer mostly to help seal the MDF so that it does not absorb so much wax. The priming is affected by the method of application used for the molten wax. If hot wax on cold board maybe make the first coat white wax. : )
I use Auro Orange Oil No.191 and put this into a big glass jar with purified beeswax. The proportion will determine the softness and easy of use of the paste. - you will discover that fast enough. Start with about 5:1 or 6:1 (beeswax:solvent). I have realised that use of ANY solvent is best done in very well ventilated areas. Since making this video I have worked with solvent only outside in the open air. And of course, be aware to let the solvent evaporate overnight before flaming with a torch!
can you tell me what citrus solvent you used with the wax to make your wax paste? There are so many different ideas or recipes I've found but you don't really say how yo made yours?
+Julie Carr (ERjules1) I made a straight beeswax solvent paste by mostly filling a jar with refined beeswax pellets. The pour in some solvent - I used Orange oil solvent but you can use what you choose. I filled up the jar about 2/3 up the pellets. Then leave overnight. Orange oil will absorb in that time - other solvents may take longer. Put something in the softened pellets to mix them into one body of wax paste. If it is still too thick add a bit more solvent and repeat the process until you get the consistency you want. Less solvent = thicker mix. NOTE: it is best to allow the applied paste to dry for 24 hours or so before fusing this paste outdoors with the wind coming from behind so that any fumes are blown away. Good ventilation using this is vital. Hope this helps you :)
Just wanted to add that although you can use cold wax with your encaustic, it should be one of the last layers because you do NOT want to heat it up. It releases a lot of toxic fumes from heating up the solvent that is in the cold wax. Most professionals agree that this is a technique that should not be used as it is very dangerous to your health.
Thankyou for your generosity Michael.
A beautiful and very useful tutorial, that shows the variety and possibilities working with wax.
Bravo Michael! :)
I cant wait to begin using this beautiful technique, it feels easy when you explain and show the work in the videos. Thanks for giving everything step by step so kind of you
I WILL NEVER FORGET THE GRASS FENCE!
.. well that's great Tina becasue it is gone now - replaced a couple of years after the filming by a shiney new one - but I've never again seen the grasses like they were on that day. Thanks for watching and enjoying :)
Hello Michael. Thank you for your video. I learned a great deal today and thoroughly enjoyed ur results.
... and thanks for your time and your supportive comment.
Love this piece - stunning work and great videos. Thanks for sharing. I am just starting off and your videos are so informative and helpful as well as inspirational.
Thanks Anne. Glad it encourages you. The fence has since been replaced by a new one with shiny galvanised wire, but I did enjoy that day filming this piece : )
Hmm, I like this. Much different from your other work. Love the last piece.
Thanks Mari - still bimbling about with that fence in my head, but I think I'm getting close to the final stuff now. Thanks.
In these examples I just used clear wax first to soak into the MDF board. For some approaches I use a mix of 20% white acrylic gesso, 10% white PVA wood glue and 70% water - it depends on what you want to achieve. I do not necessarily want a "white" under surface. I apply this primer mostly to help seal the MDF so that it does not absorb so much wax. The priming is affected by the method of application used for the molten wax. If hot wax on cold board maybe make the first coat white wax. : )
I use Auro Orange Oil No.191 and put this into a big glass jar with purified beeswax. The proportion will determine the softness and easy of use of the paste. - you will discover that fast enough. Start with about 5:1 or 6:1 (beeswax:solvent). I have realised that use of ANY solvent is best done in very well ventilated areas. Since making this video I have worked with solvent only outside in the open air. And of course, be aware to let the solvent evaporate overnight before flaming with a torch!
Beautiful piece.
Thank you so much for doing this! Could you please tell me what you use for primer?
can you tell me what citrus solvent you used with the wax to make your wax paste? There are so many different ideas or recipes I've found but you don't really say how yo made yours?
where can I find the solvent paste? and do you melt the wax to blend with solvent and what ratio?
+Julie Carr (ERjules1) I made a straight beeswax solvent paste by mostly filling a jar with refined beeswax pellets. The pour in some solvent - I used Orange oil solvent but you can use what you choose. I filled up the jar about 2/3 up the pellets. Then leave overnight. Orange oil will absorb in that time - other solvents may take longer. Put something in the softened pellets to mix them into one body of wax paste. If it is still too thick add a bit more solvent and repeat the process until you get the consistency you want. Less solvent = thicker mix. NOTE: it is best to allow the applied paste to dry for 24 hours or so before fusing this paste outdoors with the wind coming from behind so that any fumes are blown away. Good ventilation using this is vital. Hope this helps you :)
Just wanted to add that although you can use cold wax with your encaustic, it should be one of the last layers because you do NOT want to heat it up. It releases a lot of toxic fumes from heating up the solvent that is in the cold wax. Most professionals agree that this is a technique that should not be used as it is very dangerous to your health.