I was curious about the same mode shifter of my neighbors which was indicating it was bad. You are suppose to get 70 ohms or something on the coil. I got nothing. Totally open between the contacts on the mode shifter. This is what powers the coil that allows it to go into agitate or spin modes. I disassembled the shifter coil and lo and behold there’s a small thermal fuse in it which was bad. So when they say these shifters get a short more than likely, it’s this little bitty thermal fuse that can be replaced. Once the coil is removed from the actual shifter mount, you can remove the plastic cover exposing the actual copper coils. Inside that is a small thermal fuse. I bet 90% or more of these failures is the small thermal fuse. At 12:26 you can see the coil metal housing. Drill out two small rivets to access the coil winding. Here is the fuse ‘Thermal Fuse Cutoff 130c 250V 2A A4-F New’.
Good Stuff! Best video on the subject. The PVC pipe trick is really cool. However, I got the center shaft out just by holding the outer shaft and tapping the motor side of the center shaft with a rubber mallet. Just make sure to have something soft under the work area to catch the inner shaft when it comes out. Of course, before you try this, make sure that you've removed the snap ring, the gears and the magnet. A light tap was all it took. Of course, YMMV.
@@uavpilotsmitty thanks! Can’t believe it’s four years since I made this video. Same washing machine same repair still running strong! Probably due for some kind of maintenance soon though! Thanks
Appreciate the helpful video. It's funny though, none of the bearing removal vids actually walk us through the process of whacking in and whacking out the actual bearing to replace it! Would have been great to see your technique with the threaded rod, for example.
This has been an excellent repair so far. The machine is super quiet now and you can actually talk while it’s in high spin mode and you’re right next to it. It’s also bone dry on the shaft looking from underneath so the main tub seal change worked very well. Totally happy with the repair! This should last at least three or four years. Take care. Update - still going strong after a month. One issue was the tub started wobbling during spin. Immediately thought the main tub but was loose and sure enough it was. Tightened that sucker down again. So put a reminder for a few weeks after repairs and check seal/shaft from underneath and that 1 11/16ths tub nut is torque tightly.
Amazon sells the mode shifter assembly and shaft for $75 bucks used. I think I'll just do that. I don't have the space or tools for everything. But since my tub is not leaking, do you think I need to wrestle with the bearing for the tub? I'll prob replace the seal and belt while I'm down there. But what do you think of the tub bearing?
@@rotcod2886 - The only ‘bearing’ that I’m aware of is the replacement ball bearing discussed in the video. Yes there is a collar that I think is referred to maybe as a bearing that I replaced as well. It sits in the plastic tub and the shaft goes through it. My thoughts are if you’ve got it taken apart where you’re replacing the shaft and the mode shifter assembly you may as well replace the bearings and all other seals as I mentioned in the video. You’re only talking another 20 bucks or something. That way you’re sure everything is new on the parts that ensure water stays where it supposed to be.
Glad it helped. This washer is still running like new. And it’s been three years since I did this. The bearing is completely dry and this washing machine gets tons of use. Granted it may be needing some maintenance in the next year but for now it’s working great and this repair was well worth it.
this is an excellent video. be aware that in 2024 I bought a newtub seal , plastic tub, and transmission. the seal does not fit into the plastic tub. It is VERY difficult to get it seated, and after sitting for a few seconds, it pushes itselt up and out of the plastic tub. the reason for this is that the seal is about 1 mm larger in diameter than the seal recepticle in the tub. it just wont fit. I ended up taking sandpaper around the seal edge to remove about 1mm of diameter, then permatexed the seal into place. now it will sit flat and stay in the plastic tub. it is shameful for GE to be selling parts that do not fit together. I used all GE parts and not copycats. PS - i thought i had the seal seated the first go - put the machine back together. it leaked right away and ruined the brand new transmission i had just put in. when i took the machine apart, the seal had pushed itself up and that allowed the leak. if you dont believe me, seat your seal and come back an hour later and see if its sitting flat. if it is, your are good to go and lucky, other wise you will see that the seal is not flush, and it will leak on you. Im pretty PO'ed that GE cost me a brand new transmission with their crappy tolerance control. I measured 3 different new GE seals - all three were the same and too big for the hole. its maddening. what are you doing GE ?
Very strange. I too permatex’d the seal area I recall. I don’t recall anything related to it not seating correctly like you describe. My is still running strong after this repair and I am very happy. My neighbor had the same washer but her board and shifter both were bad so she just got another washer - which broke the first day she had it! I just posted an interesting note about this shifter which I found out after she gave me the old washer and I scrapped it for parts. Did you end up keeping yours?Thanks for posting!
I want to thank you for your video. I just needed help with knowing how that little snap ring holds that white washer in place. I rebuilt my whole unit. cost me $4.15 Canadian. whole unit new is $455.00 here. I skipped a few steps you did. I did not remove the assembly from the frame used it as a support and worked well. I also did not see the merit of removing the electromagnet coil so left it on as well. I am a repair technician here for almost 40 years.
Can you specify what special tools you used? As in the bearing tools etc. I was looking online and i see alot of them specific to Auto repair, but if you could say what tools you used, that would be great! I'm wondering if any of the loaner tools from Oreilly work, or something from Harbor freight? This would probably be the only time I'd ever use them.
@@condor5635 I had the typical noises during the spin cycle. Investigated. Ordered parts including a rebuilt shifter shaft drive for $81 from Corecentric on ebay. Got all of the parts, made the repair machine works fine. Corecentric provides "recyclng" box to send them the old shifter drive. Neat business for them to then rebuild and sell - seems like a win,win. So I thought I would try to put a new bearing in. Thanks to you and other youtube videos, I am at the point of driving out the bad bearing and, if successful, I'll order the new bearing and press it in. Thanks again
What end of the outer shaft are you banging to get the shaft off the bearing at 3:41. The long side outer shaft referencing from the frame? What side does the bearing come out at 3:58. You mention top of frame, what is the top? The long side of the outer shaft from the frame? Thanks in advance
The outer shaft comes out of the bearing by banging on the short end that’s within the electromagnet housing. It only has to be banged an inch or two I’m guessing to get it off of the bearing. You’re obviously not bringing the shaft in its entire length through the bearing. You’re banging on the short end. Hope that helps
I've been scouring the internet to find a video of the noise this bad bearing would make. Our washer makes a horendous noise when it goes into spin cycle and only the spin cycle, but it still goes through all the cycles etc. Also, when it spins, the clothes don't get wrung out very well. In your opinion do you think it's the bearing in the mode shifter would make, or is it perhaps only the tub bearing? It's definately leaking too BTW, water in the bottom of the pan inside the washer.
You can’t go wrong replacing all of the parts mentioned that I did in the video. It will make it a new washer. Mine has been doing great now at least 4 yrs later
Not exactly sure which piece you’re talking about but maybe you try heat or PB blaster or something. None of these pieces that I recall were seized together or anything for mine. You do need to use the proper sockets and what have you to ensure you’re putting pressure on the proper piece
mine was stuck rusted as one part. I just hit it harder with a hammer. either it comes off or you break it off. then get another part. mine came off eventually nothing broke use a punch and hit it evenly all in a circle
We're talking about the sleeve gear under the white plastic cap, right?Mine was tight, although not corroded. I was able to slowly, carefully pry it off with a variety of screw drivers and pry bars. It's splined on the inside so it won't twist off. Took a few minutes but it eventually came off. PB Blaster would also help if yours isn't corroded.
Good vid, I attempted it a few years ago but did something wrong as I broke the bearing housing using a shop press. Ended up selling the seal and bearings as a kit online and parting out the washer and scrapping the rest.
Sorry to hear it did not work out. Bearing removal and installation is definitely somewhat of an art where you have to keep in mind where the force is being applied and how to support the assembly at the same time. Proper sized tools (sockets etc) are essential as well. Thanks for commenting!
We have a loud noise during the spin cycle on our GE top load washer, along with a metallic smell. My research led me to the Repair Clinic video about replacing the tub bearing, and the comments then led me here. I'm trying to determine if it's the tub bearing or the clutch bearing that's the issue. Any suggestions on how I might be able to tell the culprit prior to ordering parts or disassembling the machine?
What I would do is takeoff the front cover and observe where the bearing is with a flashlight. If your bearing is shot water will probably have come down the seal and down the shaft and onto the bearing and you should be able to see evidence of a bad bearing with rust etc. If it’s a loud noise during the spin cycle and the tub bearing is a few years old I would entirely believe that the bearing is bad. There’s not really a clutch bearing per se it’s an electromagnet that throws the clutch teeth up and down allowing it to enter spin or agitate modes. Other than a clicking noise when it engages I can’t imagine this really making much noise if it’s working and you’re getting both spin and agitating to work. I bet it’s your main bearing
@@condor5635 I'll take a look behind the front cover. Spin is definitely working, just really loud (kind of like the roar of an airplane engine when it's spinning). Agitation is not working very much if at all, which is another thing I noticed.
Just took a quick look and the underside looks pretty clean. Maybe a few small drops of rusty water but not much. No signs of salt or other corrosion. Overall it seems pristine and visually in great shape. I made a quick video if you have a minute to look: th-cam.com/video/ROOiHt6rF2U/w-d-xo.html
@@prwood78 - interesting it does look very clean Peter. One thing you need to make sure is those mounting bolts that mount the bearing housing to the frame. I had one of those come loose. I believe there’s four of them one is screwed in backwards or from the top or something like that and the other three are accessible. It’s possible one of those might’ve come loose so definitely check the mounts of those bolts. If you could post a video of what’s going on when it’s making The actual noise that would help as well
@@prwood78 - I just checked ours there’s three bolts that you’ll see threads coming through the frame these bolts are black and you can see them against the silver housing pretty easily. The one on the far right side in the back is a bolt head- probably a 10 or 12 mm in size. Make sure all four of those bolts are secure and not missing. The other thing you might check is your brick in the back is it firm and in place and secured well or has it broken and become loose. This is the counterweight to balance the entire assembly
If you just search for the bearing like I listed in the video you’ll find it but here it is from Amazon. (4 Pack) PGN 6006-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing - C3-30x55x13 - Lubricated - Chrome Steel www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYVQJDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_N4QQWX5Q1E8XZ21GE4JX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
hey thanks so much for making this. i found this vid from the comment you left on the repair clinic video. i was unable to get that bearing out of the shirt assembly. what tools can I use to get this off? i attempted banging it out with the old tub bearing I was going to replace but it ended up breaking up when i hit it with a hammer attempting to bust that bearing off with it. could u give some advice on getting that bearing off?
So you got the shaft off of the bearing already? If so then at 3:52 it talks about getting the bearing out. Support the assembly frame on the side that the bearing comes out. Support it with as much as you can to support the round area but have enough area to allow the bearing to come out. Using a socket on the other side - largest socket that you can - bang the socket with a hammer and this should allow the bearing to exit the assembly. Let me know how it goes! Thanks!
@@condor5635 i got the aluminum assembly to come off the bearing. but i still have the bearing stuck on the shaft. will not budge any tips? UPDATE just got it with a sledge hammer and cinder blocks. ill update tomorrow when i assemble it
It seems the 6006-RS bearing goes bad when water gets past the shaft seal located inside the tub barrel and drips down the shaft on to the bearing causing it to rust over time. Of course when repairing you install a new shaft seal inside the tub barrel, but why not add another seal (same one) on the shaft and place it right above the Mode Shifter Shaft Drive Assembly bearing? Now if the shaft seal inside the tube barrel leaks, you have another seal that you have placed on the shaft under the tub barrel and slid down to sit above the bearing. When I open my washer up I'll take a look and see if that is feasible. It's April, 2023 and the whole shaft assembly is going for $118 on Amazon. Tempting to just buy the shaft at that price and save my time. And add that extra seal over the bearing...
Tempting to buy yes but $118 is a lot more than 10 bucks. Not sure if I am following you but I believe you are saying to put another seal on the shaft that divert the said dripping water away from being able to drip directly on the bearing? If so you still have the original seal that is going bad and needs replacing so not sure what that buys you. Maybe some additional time but not much because you don’t want it leaking anyway. Thanks for comment
I think that's a great idea. If you can divert the water leak away from the bearing itself and catch notice of the leak timely before it damages the bearing, this would give you a chance to replace the tub bearing and shaft seal and get it back to working order. Now the only thing I would be concerned with this idea is that suppose there's a leak and water runs down onto the secondary seal over the bearing and the washer is in spinning mode, won't the water running on top of the rotating seal cause it to spray out towards the motor possibly damaging it? Just a thought.
@@rogerbec5766 - yeah that’s why I’m saying protecting the bearing with some kind of secondary seal or guard really is not addressing the problem and is causing other problems. Best to keep an eye on the seal and replace it before the day the bearing goes out. I did this work over two years ago in our machine is still running strong with no signs of leaks so I’ve been very happy.
@@condor5635I haven't opened up the washer yet. I currently have a metal grinding noise during wash cycle but not during spin. So when I take it apart, I'll be looking at motor gears to see if that's were noise coming from and if so what caused it. Or if its the 6006-RS bearing that's gone bad, I will check to see if it's the barrel seal that caused failure. I'll go ahead and replace that seal and add another seal but put/slide that second seal on the shaft, above the 6006-RS bearing so if barrel seal should start leaking sometime in the future, it may not be caught till it kills the new bearing. But, thank you Condor5635 for your write up/video, very detailed, lots of great tips, and if it is the bearing I'll have to consider your technique for bearing replacement. I have some experience replacing bearing as I used to buy rebuilt alts for my truck/cars, but then figured out it's not that hard to open up the alternator and replace the bearings, stator, diodes, and any other parts needed. Saves a lot of $, plus it's a lot of fun/satisfying to rebuild your alternator.
@@rogerbec5766 Thank you for this comment. I'll take a look and see if adding the extra seal and if leak occurred in future if water spin off from second seal would damage motor. I would hope if I replaced barrel seal, I would be good for at least a couple of years. Second seal would be like a emergency back up. It would probably take a couple of years for the water spin off from second seal to kill the gearbox... maybe by then it's time for another machine as other parts may start to break down or the wife may demand a new washer :)
Thank you for this video. I was just about to order the whole shaft for about 200CAD and I found your video and decided to try this fix. And wow it worked so well. The washer is now really quiet 🙏
I was curious about the same mode shifter of my neighbors which was indicating it was bad. You are suppose to get 70 ohms or something on the coil. I got nothing. Totally open between the contacts on the mode shifter. This is what powers the coil that allows it to go into agitate or spin modes. I disassembled the shifter coil and lo and behold there’s a small thermal fuse in it which was bad. So when they say these shifters get a short more than likely, it’s this little bitty thermal fuse that can be replaced. Once the coil is removed from the actual shifter mount, you can remove the plastic cover exposing the actual copper coils. Inside that is a small thermal fuse. I bet 90% or more of these failures is the small thermal fuse. At 12:26 you can see the coil metal housing. Drill out two small rivets to access the coil winding. Here is the fuse ‘Thermal Fuse Cutoff 130c 250V 2A A4-F New’.
Good Stuff! Best video on the subject. The PVC pipe trick is really cool. However, I got the center shaft out just by holding the outer shaft and tapping the motor side of the center shaft with a rubber mallet. Just make sure to have something soft under the work area to catch the inner shaft when it comes out. Of course, before you try this, make sure that you've removed the snap ring, the gears and the magnet. A light tap was all it took. Of course, YMMV.
@@uavpilotsmitty thanks! Can’t believe it’s four years since I made this video. Same washing machine same repair still running strong! Probably due for some kind of maintenance soon though! Thanks
Appreciate the helpful video. It's funny though, none of the bearing removal vids actually walk us through the process of whacking in and whacking out the actual bearing to replace it! Would have been great to see your technique with the threaded rod, for example.
This has been an excellent repair so far. The machine is super quiet now and you can actually talk while it’s in high spin mode and you’re right next to it. It’s also bone dry on the shaft looking from underneath so the main tub seal change worked very well. Totally happy with the repair! This should last at least three or four years. Take care.
Update - still going strong after a month. One issue was the tub started wobbling during spin. Immediately thought the main tub but was loose and sure enough it was. Tightened that sucker down again. So put a reminder for a few weeks after repairs and check seal/shaft from underneath and that 1 11/16ths tub nut is torque tightly.
Amazon sells the mode shifter assembly and shaft for $75 bucks used. I think I'll just do that. I don't have the space or tools for everything. But since my tub is not leaking, do you think I need to wrestle with the bearing for the tub? I'll prob replace the seal and belt while I'm down there. But what do you think of the tub bearing?
@@rotcod2886 - The only ‘bearing’ that I’m aware of is the replacement ball bearing discussed in the video. Yes there is a collar that I think is referred to maybe as a bearing that I replaced as well. It sits in the plastic tub and the shaft goes through it. My thoughts are if you’ve got it taken apart where you’re replacing the shaft and the mode shifter assembly you may as well replace the bearings and all other seals as I mentioned in the video. You’re only talking another 20 bucks or something. That way you’re sure everything is new on the parts that ensure water stays where it supposed to be.
Thank you, you’re the bestest
Glad it helped. This washer is still running like new. And it’s been three years since I did this. The bearing is completely dry and this washing machine gets tons of use. Granted it may be needing some maintenance in the next year but for now it’s working great and this repair was well worth it.
Would've rather you did the whole video without the words... I'm a hands on guy
this is an excellent video. be aware that in 2024 I bought a newtub seal , plastic tub, and transmission. the seal does not fit into the plastic tub. It is VERY difficult to get it seated, and after sitting for a few seconds, it pushes itselt up and out of the plastic tub. the reason for this is that the seal is about 1 mm larger in diameter than the seal recepticle in the tub. it just wont fit. I ended up taking sandpaper around the seal edge to remove about 1mm of diameter, then permatexed the seal into place. now it will sit flat and stay in the plastic tub. it is shameful for GE to be selling parts that do not fit together. I used all GE parts and not copycats. PS - i thought i had the seal seated the first go - put the machine back together. it leaked right away and ruined the brand new transmission i had just put in. when i took the machine apart, the seal had pushed itself up and that allowed the leak. if you dont believe me, seat your seal and come back an hour later and see if its sitting flat. if it is, your are good to go and lucky, other wise you will see that the seal is not flush, and it will leak on you. Im pretty PO'ed that GE cost me a brand new transmission with their crappy tolerance control. I measured 3 different new GE seals - all three were the same and too big for the hole. its maddening. what are you doing GE ?
Very strange. I too permatex’d the seal area I recall. I don’t recall anything related to it not seating correctly like you describe. My is still running strong after this repair and I am very happy. My neighbor had the same washer but her board and shifter both were bad so she just got another washer - which broke the first day she had it! I just posted an interesting note about this shifter which I found out after she gave me the old washer and I scrapped it for parts. Did you end up keeping yours?Thanks for posting!
I want to thank you for your video. I just needed help with knowing how that little snap ring holds that white washer in place. I rebuilt my whole unit. cost me $4.15 Canadian. whole unit new is $455.00 here. I skipped a few steps you did. I did not remove the assembly from the frame used it as a support and worked well. I also did not see the merit of removing the electromagnet coil so left it on as well. I am a repair technician here for almost 40 years.
Glad it helped Brian! 2 years later and our’s is still working great. No issues! Have a great day
You should do a video on how you rebuilt it. You got my attention for sure.
@@rogerbec5766 - I do have a video you can search for it. Hopefully it’s entertaining!
Can you specify what special tools you used? As in the bearing tools etc.
I was looking online and i see alot of them specific to Auto repair, but if you could say what tools you used, that would be great! I'm wondering if any of the loaner tools from Oreilly work, or something from Harbor freight? This would probably be the only time I'd ever use them.
You did an excellent job explaining ths process. Take care
dejapex1 Thank you. It is still running fantastic. Hope you repair goes well if you are actually needing to undertake it.
@@condor5635 I had the typical noises during the spin cycle. Investigated. Ordered parts including a rebuilt shifter shaft drive for $81 from Corecentric on ebay. Got all of the parts, made the repair machine works fine. Corecentric provides "recyclng" box to send them the old shifter drive. Neat business for them to then rebuild and sell - seems like a win,win. So I thought I would try to put a new bearing in. Thanks to you and other youtube videos, I am at the point of driving out the bad bearing and, if successful, I'll order the new bearing and press it in. Thanks again
What end of the outer shaft are you banging to get the shaft off the bearing at 3:41. The long side outer shaft referencing from the frame? What side does the bearing come out at 3:58. You mention top of frame, what is the top? The long side of the outer shaft from the frame? Thanks in advance
The outer shaft comes out of the bearing by banging on the short end that’s within the electromagnet housing. It only has to be banged an inch or two I’m guessing to get it off of the bearing. You’re obviously not bringing the shaft in its entire length through the bearing. You’re banging on the short end. Hope that helps
@@condor5635 thanks 👍
I've been scouring the internet to find a video of the noise this bad bearing would make.
Our washer makes a horendous noise when it goes into spin cycle and only the spin cycle, but it still goes through all the cycles etc. Also, when it spins, the clothes don't get wrung out very well. In your opinion do you think it's the bearing in the mode shifter would make, or
is it perhaps only the tub bearing? It's definately leaking too BTW, water in the bottom of the pan inside the washer.
You can’t go wrong replacing all of the parts mentioned that I did in the video. It will make it a new washer. Mine has been doing great now at least 4 yrs later
Thank you for the video. I think I ruined that little snap/slip ring trying to get it off the shaft. Hopefully Ace Hardware has a replacement.
How to change the bearing?
Yes
That last splined sprocket piece that you easily slid off won't come off of mine. It seems to be permanently attached to the spin tube.
Not exactly sure which piece you’re talking about but maybe you try heat or PB blaster or something. None of these pieces that I recall were seized together or anything for mine. You do need to use the proper sockets and what have you to ensure you’re putting pressure on the proper piece
Me too
mine was stuck rusted as one part. I just hit it harder with a hammer. either it comes off or you break it off. then get another part. mine came off eventually nothing broke use a punch and hit it evenly all in a circle
We're talking about the sleeve gear under the white plastic cap, right?Mine was tight, although not corroded. I was able to slowly, carefully pry it off with a variety of screw drivers and pry bars. It's splined on the inside so it won't twist off. Took a few minutes but it eventually came off. PB Blaster would also help if yours isn't corroded.
Good vid, I attempted it a few years ago but did something wrong as I broke the bearing housing using a shop press. Ended up selling the seal and bearings as a kit online and parting out the washer and scrapping the rest.
Sorry to hear it did not work out. Bearing removal and installation is definitely somewhat of an art where you have to keep in mind where the force is being applied and how to support the assembly at the same time. Proper sized tools (sockets etc) are essential as well. Thanks for commenting!
We have a loud noise during the spin cycle on our GE top load washer, along with a metallic smell. My research led me to the Repair Clinic video about replacing the tub bearing, and the comments then led me here. I'm trying to determine if it's the tub bearing or the clutch bearing that's the issue. Any suggestions on how I might be able to tell the culprit prior to ordering parts or disassembling the machine?
What I would do is takeoff the front cover and observe where the bearing is with a flashlight. If your bearing is shot water will probably have come down the seal and down the shaft and onto the bearing and you should be able to see evidence of a bad bearing with rust etc. If it’s a loud noise during the spin cycle and the tub bearing is a few years old I would entirely believe that the bearing is bad. There’s not really a clutch bearing per se it’s an electromagnet that throws the clutch teeth up and down allowing it to enter spin or agitate modes. Other than a clicking noise when it engages I can’t imagine this really making much noise if it’s working and you’re getting both spin and agitating to work. I bet it’s your main bearing
@@condor5635 I'll take a look behind the front cover. Spin is definitely working, just really loud (kind of like the roar of an airplane engine when it's spinning). Agitation is not working very much if at all, which is another thing I noticed.
Just took a quick look and the underside looks pretty clean. Maybe a few small drops of rusty water but not much. No signs of salt or other corrosion. Overall it seems pristine and visually in great shape. I made a quick video if you have a minute to look: th-cam.com/video/ROOiHt6rF2U/w-d-xo.html
@@prwood78 - interesting it does look very clean Peter. One thing you need to make sure is those mounting bolts that mount the bearing housing to the frame. I had one of those come loose. I believe there’s four of them one is screwed in backwards or from the top or something like that and the other three are accessible. It’s possible one of those might’ve come loose so definitely check the mounts of those bolts. If you could post a video of what’s going on when it’s making The actual noise that would help as well
@@prwood78 - I just checked ours there’s three bolts that you’ll see threads coming through the frame these bolts are black and you can see them against the silver housing pretty easily. The one on the far right side in the back is a bolt head- probably a 10 or 12 mm in size. Make sure all four of those bolts are secure and not missing. The other thing you might check is your brick in the back is it firm and in place and secured well or has it broken and become loose. This is the counterweight to balance the entire assembly
Thank you very much! I'm going to try to do it :)
Were you successful?
Is there a link to the Amazon page, or at leary a description of what I am looking for
If you just search for the bearing like I listed in the video you’ll find it but here it is from Amazon. (4 Pack) PGN 6006-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing - C3-30x55x13 - Lubricated - Chrome Steel www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYVQJDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_N4QQWX5Q1E8XZ21GE4JX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@condor5635 thanks
hey thanks so much for making this. i found this vid from the comment you left on the repair clinic video. i was unable to get that bearing out of the shirt assembly. what tools can I use to get this off? i attempted banging it out with the old tub bearing I was going to replace but it ended up breaking up when i hit it with a hammer attempting to bust that bearing off with it. could u give some advice on getting that bearing off?
So you got the shaft off of the bearing already? If so then at 3:52 it talks about getting the bearing out. Support the assembly frame on the side that the bearing comes out. Support it with as much as you can to support the round area but have enough area to allow the bearing to come out. Using a socket on the other side - largest socket that you can - bang the socket with a hammer and this should allow the bearing to exit the assembly. Let me know how it goes! Thanks!
@@condor5635 i got the aluminum assembly to come off the bearing. but i still have the bearing stuck on the shaft. will not budge any tips? UPDATE just got it with a sledge hammer and cinder blocks. ill update tomorrow when i assemble it
Wesley Sullivan - how did it go?
@@condor5635 broke the piece of metal on the shifter assembly while trying to get the new bearing on the shaft.
Wesley Sullivan - did not get proper support I am guessing? Guess just buy the whole assembly?
It seems the 6006-RS bearing goes bad when water gets past the shaft seal located inside the tub barrel and drips down the shaft on to the bearing causing it to rust over time. Of course when repairing you install a new shaft seal inside the tub barrel, but why not add another seal (same one) on the shaft and place it right above the Mode Shifter Shaft Drive Assembly bearing? Now if the shaft seal inside the tube barrel leaks, you have another seal that you have placed on the shaft under the tub barrel and slid down to sit above the bearing. When I open my washer up I'll take a look and see if that is feasible. It's April, 2023 and the whole shaft assembly is going for $118 on Amazon. Tempting to just buy the shaft at that price and save my time. And add that extra seal over the bearing...
Tempting to buy yes but $118 is a lot more than 10 bucks. Not sure if I am following you but I believe you are saying to put another seal on the shaft that divert the said dripping water away from being able to drip directly on the bearing? If so you still have the original seal that is going bad and needs replacing so not sure what that buys you. Maybe some additional time but not much because you don’t want it leaking anyway. Thanks for comment
I think that's a great idea. If you can divert the water leak away from the bearing itself and catch notice of the leak timely before it damages the bearing, this would give you a chance to replace the tub bearing and shaft seal and get it back to working order. Now the only thing I would be concerned with this idea is that suppose there's a leak and water runs down onto the secondary seal over the bearing and the washer is in spinning mode, won't the water running on top of the rotating seal cause it to spray out towards the motor possibly damaging it? Just a thought.
@@rogerbec5766 - yeah that’s why I’m saying protecting the bearing with some kind of secondary seal or guard really is not addressing the problem and is causing other problems. Best to keep an eye on the seal and replace it before the day the bearing goes out. I did this work over two years ago in our machine is still running strong with no signs of leaks so I’ve been very happy.
@@condor5635I haven't opened up the washer yet. I currently have a metal grinding noise during wash cycle but not during spin. So when I take it apart, I'll be looking at motor gears to see if that's were noise coming from and if so what caused it. Or if its the 6006-RS bearing that's gone bad, I will check to see if it's the barrel seal that caused failure. I'll go ahead and replace that seal and add another seal but put/slide that second seal on the shaft, above the 6006-RS bearing so if barrel seal should start leaking sometime in the future, it may not be caught till it kills the new bearing.
But, thank you Condor5635 for your write up/video, very detailed, lots of great tips, and if it is the bearing I'll have to consider your technique for bearing replacement.
I have some experience replacing bearing as I used to buy rebuilt alts for my truck/cars, but then figured out it's not that hard to open up the alternator and replace the bearings, stator, diodes, and any other parts needed. Saves a lot of $, plus it's a lot of fun/satisfying to rebuild your alternator.
@@rogerbec5766 Thank you for this comment. I'll take a look and see if adding the extra seal and if leak occurred in future if water spin off from second seal would damage motor. I would hope if I replaced barrel seal, I would be good for at least a couple of years. Second seal would be like a emergency back up. It would probably take a couple of years for the water spin off from second seal to kill the gearbox... maybe by then it's time for another machine as other parts may start to break down or the wife may demand a new washer :)
This particular machine is notorious of a bad bearing
Some more pictures would've been nice.
Any questions let me know. Did you attempt it?
Thank you for this video. I was just about to order the whole shaft for about 200CAD and I found your video and decided to try this fix. And wow it worked so well. The washer is now really quiet 🙏