JOHN DEERE BREAKS DOWN PULLING A BATWING MOWER THE FIRST TIME
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- It wouldn't be another GWT project if something didn't go wrong. But boy would we love for that tune to change. Out at the property we've got the shrubs and small trees cleared out of the fields, and are ready to mow. Best of all, we have a Rhino TS10 Batwing Mower ready for its inaugural pull behind our John Deere 4720. Should be a good day! Should....
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Regarding the temp, when it’s already running warm & the tractor is running it’s constantly circulating coolant but when you shut off an already warm engine you stop that circulation & that already hot coolant is sitting at that temp sensor & is going to get warmer because it’s not circulating & just collecting heat off of the engine components & getting hotter until everything starts to naturally cool down. Fix to this is when your tractor starts to run warm & you’re gonna shut it off to clean screens let it idle for a little bit with out a load on the engine so it’s naturally cooling itself down before you just shut it off while it was already running hot
That makes perfect sense. Might have bought me some time, but I feel like there is something more significant going on.
@@GoodWorksTractors Yepp you may be absolutely correct, I’m just sharing something I found out the hard way operating a grain cart in the Texas heat
Seeing your post saved me from regurgitating the same information. The one thing left out - on severely overheated engines, crank over every minute or so till cooled down a little to prevent seizing.
Definitely, experience is the best teacher 😂. Have a great day!
Also, along with what was already mentioned about a running cool down, just check and make sure the radiator and ac condenser aren't partly plugged with dust\dirt. Mud wasps love radiators! There's allot of heat being dumped through both and when you add the extra heat of a hydraulic cooler into it on a 90+ day with a good load, that might all be enough to push it over the edge. It's that a hydrostat machine?
Diesel engines are cooled. When they start to run hot, the best thing to do is find some shade if possible. Allow the engine to idle 1100 - 1300 rpm. This will usually cool them down. While the engine cools, you can pop the hood and clean the radiator screen. Turning a diesel engine off can cause major damage as it continues to heat up. Just a little something I was taught on the farm many years ago.
was about to write this, do NOT shut of the engine when it runs hot, let it idle to allow the coolant and radiator fan to do their job. That apply to any water cooled engine out there, not only diesels.
He should also turned the cab Heating on that will help to get the heat awas from the engine (and it gets even hotter in the cab so 90degree suddenly dont seem to be that hot)
We had the same situation....used compressed air to blow out before starting to use....get the air wand that has 5 holes for your air hose and blow the radiator out before you start work..when you notice the heat guage moving stop the tractor and clean the radiator screen...we carry a Stihl blower on the tractor..this helps in the field...
Man, you make some great videos! Aside from the excellent information, from the first few seconds with the drone shot of a JD pulling a batwing, and the acoustic guitar and mandolin...it is so very well crafted. I really appreciate the work that obviously goes into this and I always look forward to it. Thank you!
We appreciate it! That's my brother doing all the camera work and editing. I only had to beg him to work with me for three years before he finally did! 🤣
Agreed!
Courtney, as large as that field is, I'd work out an agreement with a local farmer. Turn that into a hay field, let them take the hay for enough years to recoup their investment for tillage, seeding, fertilizer, etc. In the end, you'll still have a beautiful field that someone else maintains for you. Once they fulfill their agreement, you could continue to grow and trade hay for beef with any farmer.
I plan to turn much of it into food plots, the north end by the tree will be our house and yard, I plan to put a soccer field in it too. Plus, I want something to mow for myself! :)
Rhino does a great job. Did not realize how thick the stuff was until you see ground shots. Like the drone coverage. Really great
Beautiful property! Reflects my love of the country life..... Our 3005 has a secret screen (lol) hidden in front of the radiator. Impossible to see, even if staring at it, it catches lots of debris. That thorn looks like what a honey locust produces, might want to find that tree & mark it for removal lol...
Haha, no doubt. I'm going to have to search for that tree!
Very good tip from a viewer, if the engine is running hot, set the heater control to the lowest setting & turn the heater fan to the highest setting.
The fan blowing hot air is acting as a radiator as it forces heat away from the engine. Love your videos.
I did that years ago on the way back from college. Made the entire 7 hour trip back home in the summer with the heat on high and the windows down 🤣
I bought a cheap craftsman battery blower from lowes just to keep with me on the tractor for mowing to blow out the rad and screens to help cut down the chances of overheating. The place is looking good.
Like my grandfather used to say....... nothing runs like a Deere.....if and when it's running! Edit/add he was a Farmall and Oliver guy. He said a deer belongs in two places.....the freezer and in your belly the green ones make good lawn ornaments. I never remember his tractors down.
Beautiful property!
Thank you sir!
The old Farmall C has about a 2mm gap between the radiator fins. Debris passes right through. Never had it overheat in 70 years.
Haha, so I didn't go old enough when I went with an older tractor. Is that what you're saying! 🤣
In hot conditions take the cowling off engine compartment, I have the same tractor that’s one of the remedies to getting it to run cooler.
Thanks for the tip!
I take my side panels off my jd web brush hogging big field. So far on the yanmar ive ran into no issues. But ill keep you posted will be mowing soon
Nice video. Sorry for the hassle. It was always drilled in my head to do exactly what you did to trouble shoot your tractor. Don't give up on the 4720 (right number?) just yet. You will figure it out or get it solved. Also have a lot of help and insight on line here. Have a great day and be safe guys!. Tim
Slipping Belt, Bad water pump or a Janky thermostat would be my first checks. I do love that Rhino mower .
Me too, can't wait to get back at it. I was feeling pretty darn good there for awhile!
I too use a TS10. It’s matched to a 55 hp 4 series red cab tractor. You’re getting some good advice regarding the overheating so I’ll refrain from commenting on that. I did notice you had your quick hitch on the back end while connected to the TS10. I am not able to do that as the pro shaft comes too close for comfort to the bottom of the quick hitch when turning. Wish I didn’t have to.remove it every time I mow! Love the videos!
Do you ever have overheat issues? What type of speed do you normally run? Thanks for watching!
@@GoodWorksTractors I have had both tractor and mower a little over a year. Purchased them new. About an hour into mowing 4’ high thick field, 90 degree day I noticed the A/c not cold enough with temp gauge a little high. I let the engine idle while I cleaned the screen and all was good. That occurred only the one time but I have not let it grow that high before mowing since. I typically mow for 4 hours or so and clean the screen upon completion.
When I set the cruise control it’s 3.5 - 3.9 mph depending upon how high I let it grow.
Nice, thanks for your feedback. Yeah my a/c had to get recharged a few weeks ago. They couldn't find a leak, but it was low. So my a/c my be unrelated to the overheat. Not sure. Debris was negligible, filter was good, hardly anything inside the compartment. I feel like it's gotta be something else.
@@GoodWorksTractors I hope you get to the bottom of it soon!
The first thing I thought of when I saw the excessive smoke on startup in the video was that you might have a DPF/emissions issue. Was there any dash indication of a regen occurring while you were mowing?
I have a 4052r. When I mow I remove the loader and carry a blower to blow out the radiator. With the loader off the high weeds tend to wipe the side covers off better which keeps it cooler. I still have to stop now and again to blow out radiator and front shields. It never overheats in regular mowing. Somewhat of a flaw in design in my opinion but I had a kabota l series do the same in tall grass.
Yeah, this was recently serviced and detailed with only a few hours on it since. There wasn't enough debris on the front grill to even worry about. I'd guess 5% of the grill was covered. I've used dozens of tractors in the field and never had an experience like this until now. I've been fortunate I suppose!
Yes, good idea.
Thank you for the video
Change the thermostat. Check coolant boiling point as well. Might be weak.
All liquid cooled engines go into “thermal soak” when shut off after running at normal operating temperature. The ability of the coolant/antifreeze to remove heat stops when the water pump stops. The engine is now totally relying on thermal radiation. (This is one reason why drag racers will use an electric water pump. They can circulate coolant with the engine off.)
Those things tend to leak coolant past the front cover, John Deere released an updated front cover to prevent this happening. Nice machines to drive.
Watch OUT! Tim and Vinnie may show up! hehe , IF he isnt GREAAAZZIN' :)
😂
Well I hope that you get it figured out all colors have problems time to time at least u didn't hide it not really over working that tractor
Sorry to see your JD having some major issues here lately. I think the cameraman is your brother and I don't remember his name but his drone footage is getting better and better. Looks like he just sits in the truck and does his thing. Some great high up shots of your new property. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Phil, yeah my bro is the camera man. He does an amazing job.
When you are bush hogging, and your engine starts to over heat. Don’t shut your engine off, clean the screen and radiator off and let the fan pull air across the radiator. When you shut it down the the coolant didn’t move and just sets stagnant and continues to heat up.
Yeah that makes sense except there wasn't any debris covering the screen nor anything under the hood. Air filter had hardly any dust on it. Fluid levels are good too.
Good Luck!!!
Thanks!! 🤞
Sure enough just had this same issue with my 1025R while mowing the other day. Temp went from 1/3rd into the green arc to red line. Turned it off, popped the hood and coolant level was fine, oil was fine, but my air filter in front of the radiator was caked in bugs/dirt. Cleaned it off, started her up and the temp dropped to normal in seconds.
Could be as simple as loose belts or low on coolant. Also as stated by another person, don't shut off a hot machine unless it is leaking fluids. Leave it running at a fast idle (1000 rpm), and let the cooling system do it's job. Plus turn off all loads on the engine I E; a/c, pto, lights etc. You can also turn the heater on high if your desperate, it acts as another small radiator.
Yeah, good tips for sure. Still, it means there's some bigger issue going on.
@@GoodWorksTractors ....hoping you’ll see this since it’s kind of buried in the comments. You mentioned that you were surprised that there wasn’t much, if any , debris on the filters or front screen. Is the fan blade spinning full speed? Could be a loose belt or fan clutch problem. Also, I would wash the radiator and a/c condenser out with water ...not just blow it out. I’ve had a tiny black seed like material ( probably from Baha’i grass) clog up my radiator before and blowing didn’t help...and you couldn’t see the clog. It really surprised me to look down as I was washing it to see all the crap that was on the concrete . The a/c not cooling good was what prompted me to do that. Also...look under the tractor for any crimped hydraulic lines. I had a stick jam one of my hard hydraulic line to where it was restricting and causing the fluid to get really hot
In my opinion, you were going pretty fast under the conditions. I have a 6430 and I pull a 15 foot batwing and I go slower. If it's smoking, you're working it pretty hard. Keep in mind, my tractor is probably almost three times the pto hp as your and I'm only pulling a five foot bigger mower. Also, mine has screens like would be on a screen door that you can pull out and clean in addition to the ventilation on the hood. I also use my tractor for haying pulling a mower conditioner, and I can't run my a/c at full while I'm doing that or else it will get hotter than I would like to see.
Is 3-3.5 mph in low range is fast? Engine rpm's never wavered at any point like it was bogged down. I've bogged down and stalled tractors quite a few times, but this showed nosigns of taxing the system. A/C had to get recharged a few weeks ago even though they couldn't find a leak.
It only smoked two times that day upon starting and one of those times was before I'd ever turned on the mower, so it wasn't because it was being worked hard.
Thanks for your input and have a great day!
@@GoodWorksTractors Did you speed up the video, because to my eyes it looked faster? I go about three in my 6430 in most cases when I'm mowing, but I normally don't have that heavy of mowing in my area living in the high plains with less rain. I wonder if you got chaff built up between the a/c and radiator because that has happened to me and I had to take everything apart and hose out all the dirt. I had a Kubota that was that way. Is your tractor hydrostatic and does it have a hydraulic oil cooler in front of the radiator? That might contribute to heating issues on a hot day. My first tractor was a Kubota B3030 before I got into actual farming, and it got warm under heavy mowing conditions. That's all I can think of, I enjoy your videos.
Yeah, it has an oil cooler on it. Didn't speed up video. The max the tractor even goes in low range is 3.9 mph and I was just setting cruise at 3 mph and increasing slightly from there. Got it at the dealer now so they can take a closer look. Besides an extremely small amount of debris, there wasn't anything off that I could find. Have a great day!
@@GoodWorksTractors Sure hope they can get it figured out. Nothing more frustrating than a machine problem when you have work to do.
My 1025r overheats sometimes when I brushhog however it's usually caused by low coolant level because it sucks up coolant for some reason I usually just let it cool down add coolant and it's good to go
Yeah, plenty of coolant here fortunately.
It shouldn't be going through college. If it's still under warranty I'd get it into the dealer. If there isn't a visible leak you could easily have a leaking head gasket or cracked cylinder head and you don't want to do those jobs out of warranty...
I must say beautiful drone work, I rather enjoy watching tractors work from an annoying bird's perspective, even if the tractor your watching is about to Chernobyl on you!
I've had a similar problem with my 4066r of getting hot. When I looked closely at the front of the radiator, behind the oil cooler, the fins were clogged to the point no air could pass. This is a very tight and almost inaccessible area. I keep the tractor clean, and check regularly, but this has escaped me on this smaller tractor. Yours should be inspected for the same reason. Very difficult to clean, by the way. 👍
Thanks Rob. I know what you're talking about there. It is a hard area to clean. Had to replace a compressor on one 4066r and pinched a wire for the air ride seat on the other. Those were the only issues I had on those machines in 2+ years. Issues are piling up on this guy quickly.
@@GoodWorksTractors Tractor Mike sells a product that fits in the gap to clean it out, you get two , one for water and one air.
@@baz7647 Yes I bought one of those and they were nice when you're not out in the field. I have a lot smaller tractor and just keep an eye on the temperature when I'm out in high brush with a 4 ft brush hog. I think somebody else's suggestion to have a blower to blow it off periodically when you're doing that much work on this project would help. I know others on TH-camrs said though that hydrostatic transmissions have a tendency to run the engine hotter than a shift transmission. I think on tractor time with Tim is larger John Deere has the power shift transmission which may give you the best of both worlds. I know Kubota has a similar system which they call glide shift transmission or GST. My almost 40-year-old's small Kubota is a manual transmission and I haven't really experienced it getting too hot, but Courtney is doing a lot bigger project plus he's got an AC cab and a huge rhino batwing behind him. Hopefully there is just a problem that they can find at the dealer, but if it continues not to perform to your liking, you may consider a Kubota with a GST or a John Deere with the power shifter.
I had a 4052R and had this issue a lot when using my 6' and 12' cutters. It's very hard to keep the radiator and ac coil clean under the hoods of the smaller tractors.. And it being a hydrostatic transmission didn't help with the overheating. I got tired of going back and washing it out every hour, so I sold it and purchased a 5075E. Love the new tractor and handles the larger jobs much better. Haven't ran it hot not once.
Exactly as Rob has noted. I run our 4066R in tall weeds. Clean out the cooler and radiator with compressed air and keep air filter clean. Engine temp will com down quickly. It will happen to any tractor in those conditions. Deere needs to increase cooling capacity
If you had a portable air compressor, you would’ve had that job done
If it has parts, it will break down. Why do we put up with it? Well, you can answer that question by getting yourself a scythe and trying the same job by hand. And, tractors are more fun! So we handle the issues and move on. Keep up the good work!
Haha, I've seen those guys using scythes. No thank you!
Courtney, I usually catch all your videos as they come out but didn't see this till today. I think you have a ground fault in your electrical system. It can cause all sorts of strange problems like this. I had a car that randomly wouldn't start and would have to jump off, car alarm would go off randomly, and temperature would read normal then high then back to normal. I replaced the battery, thermostat and main alarm unit with no luck. Then one day trouble shooting ended up noticing I coul wiggle the ground on the engine block. Tightened and no more problems. Hope it's not too late for you to see this and maybe it will help.
Very frustrating...I feel your pain. Good luck chasing down your gremlins. 👍😎
Sounds like you need to change the green tractor in for an orange one. 😊
I did take a look to see if there were any good deals on L6060's 😂😬
All if these issues my friend seem to point to the electrical system. Not saying this is the cause but something like a bad ground, bad alternator, damaged wires, etc.. When you had that issue with your hydraulics and they could not repro it that made me think something electrical was wigging out the PTO solenoid and other solenoids randomly.
You will find it, still think you made the right choice and I know you won't give up till you find it. 🙂
Yeah you could be right. It isn't the usual stuff that most of these folks are commenting on. Those things were crossed off the list already. It's something funky!
@@GoodWorksTractors as you know my friend our modern tractors are more and more dependent on the electrical system. The CPU and components are very sensitive to ground and voltage issues also. Someone at the dealer needs to go over the entire electrical system with a fine tooth comb. Start with the alternator/regulator, then fuses/relays (and the fuse/relay box), then CPU/Control System, then harness. It will take them some time but that is why they get paid the big bucks. 🙂
What really points me in that direction is the case of your battery acting dead and them working again at the dealer. There is no reason it should be doing that if your electical system is ok.
You will find it my friend, I know you will. Rooting for you!
Bad luck. Sounds like my 4066R I has pulling a TS12 a few years ago. I think those hydro tractor just can’t take pulling a rotary mower in thick heavy weeds. I fixed mine by trading up to a full size Case IH Farmall 100c and a Land Pride RC3615 15 foot rotary mower. Good luck I hope you get it fixed. I tried cleaning radiator and holding over to mower less with each pass but only thing that fixed it was the trade.
The real take away from this video is that the airstrip is mowed.
Haha that's right!
I'm amazed at all the comments saying you are working the tractor too hard or that the load is too much for that tractor.
I worked on a 400 acre farm through the late 1970's through to close to 2000. All of our equipment was at least 10 to 40 years old (back then) and we used to run everything hard. Many of them would have the governor pegged wide open, trying to hit the set rpm for hour after hour after hour.
Never, not once, do I remember having a tractor overheat unless it was low on coolant or had a water pump with an impeller with no blades (cavitation sometimes corrodes the blades into oblivion).
On top of that, none of those old tractors would even overheat with the radiator substantially blocked with chaff. Once in a blue moon we'd notice a temperature gauge slightly higher than normal and it was because the radiator was completely blocked. This was super rare though and a quick blast with compressed air and the temperature was back to normal. Those old tractors had cooling systems with a good 2x more cooling that required.
Are tractors today that much weaker that they can overheat at less than full rated power?
Its the emissions bs it causes the tractor to be weaker and they put off more heat themselves than the engines do
Hydraulic oil filters need to be changed?
Get a compact battery operated blower I recommend the small Dewalt, make sure all the radiators are spotless clean, I don’t know about yours but they usually have a very small narrow radiator hidden between the other radiators hard to get to make sure it’s not clogged up, when it overheats blow the radiator out quickly then start upAnd run it full throttle and watch the temperature gage slowly drop don’t drive it just run it until it cools down then all the lights go off and start operating tractor again what I have found on my 4066R is there is no clean out screens and it’s very frustrating basically I have to carefully pressure wash everything out with a wide spread fan of water so it doesn’t bend the fins on the radiator when spotless the only thing you can do is run it keep an eye on everything blow out the radiators on hot days, I had to get rid of my 4066R for that reason, I run now five series, but come spring time I work seven days a week running full PTO speed for five months nonstop and at the end of the season when it’s hot and dusty it’s almost impossible to finish a job because of the heat & the dust there’s times I have to blow out the radiators every 10 minutes, it’s so frustrating if they put clean out screens it would make life so much easier, on the 4066 if you pull off the right and left side panels then on the bottom of the front grill on each side there are two clips on the right side two clips on the left side unclip those disconnect the headlights and lift the whole grill up and out this way you have access to all the radiators look down underneath the bottom and make sure that tiny little radiator is spotless clean and the only way you will get it all out is eventually pressure washing it, but before pressure washing make sure you blow it out with air as much as possible without bending the fins otherwise you will get mud, It’s frustrating but it is doable, As of five years of running a 4066R it’s always late season where I have these problems otherwise it’s a great tractor, I average at least 600 hours a year saddle time and have never had any breakdowns just the overheating problem.
If it is a turbo engine and the turbo isn't spooling like it should you will generate more smoke and considerably more heat.
Not that it would make a difference in terms of your overheating issue but that looks like a big enough open space that you should take the loader off to mow it.
Need to just check the basics: THOROUGHLY clean all the coolers up front. Preferably with a pressure washer with the coolers pulled apart as far as possible. Check fan belt tension, coolant level. After that, might look at thermostats, then water pump. But the last 2 are unlikely to be the culprit. Usually it's just lack of air flow.
The excessive black smoke would immediately make me want to check the air filter/intake plumbing. Lack of air to the engine will cause excessive black smoke and will also contribute to overheating.
Thanks. Yeah this tractor was just serviced and detailed recently. Maybe 3 hours of use on it since then. You're right, that black smoke does seem to be air related. Gotta dig deeper. Thanks for the tips!
I see you are getting beat up over shutting the tractor down. Sorry and they are right. Many of us carry small battery operated blowers for exactly this issue. For when you are near an air or water source, I use the Radiator Genie - Water & Air Cleaning Wands for High Efficiency Cooling Systems and Radiators - Blow Out / Wash Out Kit (Amazon). Best of luck. On another note, if your air filters are dirty, it will run hotter as it struggles to get enough air for combustion. There also may be debris in the air filter canister. It happens.
Air filter was clean, almost no debris on the front grill and temp was in the green when I turned it off. It didn't jump to red until it was off for a little while. There is very little that a blower would have done and if a tractor is that finicky, then it's not worth buying. Not my first time cutting a field, but have ran dozens of tractors with brush hogs and have not had it happen. I only mow in the summer, so it's not like this hot summer day was any different than the rest over the years.
I think your black smoke concern is what will end up being the problem. I would guess emissions problem.
leaky injectors, and injector pump not pumping enough fuel. Running Lean causes heat
Do you know when the tractor was built? It may have winter air in the engine. Might have to swap it out for some summer air. Consult your local JD dealer.
That's likely the culprit, haha!
Ohh Deere, couple of things I have seen people already post, idle it while you open the hood and check things out. If you can't see anything there and the radiator isn't blocked up, well things could get interesting first I'd flush and change the coolant, then the thermostat, and if it's still overheating maybe a head gasket or even a water pump, I did notice the cloud of black smoke on startup and thought that's odd. Was it hard to start back up like cranked abit more etc? I have a mix of water and air cooled tractors and I prefer the air cooled tractors in the crap like your mowing in summer. I've had the overheating issue a few times doing clean up work it's not fun
Ha!
The thing is that the needle was not in the red when I turned it off. It was in the green, but rising. So, I wasn't thinking it was in danger of overheating. I hopped off to clean the grill expecting it to be covered in debris, but it was not. It was almost completely free of debris. Something I've done on dozens of tractors over the years while mowing. Keep an eye on the needle, as soon as you see it start to rise, time to clean it off and check under the hood. So, it caught me off guard when I turned it back on on the needle was literally buried as deep in the red as it could go intiially. Spiraled downhill quickly!
PS -- no, wasn't any harder to start up. Cranked up like it always had. Goofy for sure.
@@GoodWorksTractors yeah that's goofy alright might have just been the uncirculated hot coolant sitting on the temp sensor. It is a big mower your running on it and it would of been under abit of load so might have just come up to a higher working temp. I don't think I will ever ask my new 4066r to pull anything like that as I have alot of choice in the shed ( 35hp - 130hp) I am going to try and mow and bale hay with it and the mower will test it (need a minimum of 55hp at the pto to run it) I feels for you it's annoying to say the least
@@GoodWorksTractors check to see if the engine cooling fan is working. I don’t know if these tractors have a fan clutch or if they have a fan that runs all the time, but no debris on the grill sounds to me like a lack of suction or no air being drawn through the coolers and to the motor. Just a suggestion...
@@GoodWorksTractors Heat soak after shut down is normal, but your tractor is running LEAN due to Injector pump issues, and 1 or some injectors are leaking ( dark smoke at start)
Since I had owned that machine for the past year or so.
I thought I would try and help here.
It was never uncommon for that tractor to smoke a little on start up in varying degrees.
Being that it is black smoke it is nothing but unburnt fuel, that being a pre-emissions machine
there is no DPF to capture it.
I always felt that was a big part of why that tractor was so much louder then my 4066R.
I always sort of liked that about that tractor, that classic diesel plum at start up, and the clear wine of the turbo shining through.
I would not be worried about that black smoke at all.
Now if you see white smoke, you may have a problem.
Black smoke especially on start up or when lugging it down under load is not uncommon at all on a pre-emissions machine.
Now whenever your having hydraulic issues, remember that machine has a tinny T shaped pressure relief valve on that loader 3rd scv.
It is located right on top of that rear scv ports.
If your having trouble with bleed off or pressure issues while operating that machine, I found the best place to look first was that little T shaped relief valve and make sure it was tight.
You have to turn it sometimes to get the pressure off the system since, I learned the hard way that machine does not work off simply turning the Key on and toggling the thumb button like on a 4066R to relieve the 3rd functions pressure.
Every time I ever had hydraulic issues with that tractor that little T relief valve was not tight.
Since the whole system is tied together in some ways that might have been part of your issues with the hydraulics.
Just a thought.
Yeah, normally it has a little black smoke on start-up, but this was enough that had me taking a look in the grass to make sure nothing was on fire, haha! So, it was just different than normal.
Hmm, good to know about the T valve. Haven't checked that at all. I'll have to keep that in mind! No issues yet relieving hydraulic pressure, but it could happen!
Thank you for taking the time!!
Time to go Orange. I don’t see many orange hoods up in my neck of the woods 🤔
Haha, the L6060 is tempting!
I'm starting to get flashbacks to the gator. I can already hear the sales pitch haha sorry things keep happening to you but on the positive side it's interesting content.
Haha, if you don't always need the three point or hydraulics, and like taking plenty of unscheduled breaks, and don't mind when the job is done, then I have the tractor for you!
@@GoodWorksTractors 🤣🤣🤣
Had the same issue but I had a case ih 225 200ish hours on it and it was a ground wire issue had the same dumb looks from dealership they thought I was crazy too but after 4 times in shop then they found
Haha yeah I had some ground wire issues on one of my skid steers. That was a mystery for several weeks.
Just my opinion I would just do a coolant flush maybe there is a clog or something. Then I’d change all filters and change every fluid there is oil,axles,transmission and so on. Maybe something can be found.
Yeah might need to do all that.
Man sorry bout the trouble sucks my tractor been in the shop a lot since I got it in February. On another note should’ve cut GWT in the grass and got an aerial view. That would’ve been cool. Anyway head up man toys break can’t get around that sometimes.
Sounds like you need to sell that 4720 with rhino mower to me just to get it off your hands 🤣
every now and then you get a lemon lol
Good video. Your brother does a very good job with the video and audio!! Scrolled thur and read the 115 comments. Most are very good advice based on the little I know about a 4 Series. Would be interesting to know from other 4 Series owners what gear they brush hog in to keep the gas pedal hammered down as much as you can to keep the fluid flowing. And these tractors are tested from north of the Arctic Circle to the deserts...so they're good to go in all temps. On a positive, these videos sure make me a jealous of your tractor having a factory cab :-)
Haha thanks Bob. Yeah, lots of advice. Hopefully it helps out some others in the future. That's what this channel is all about!
It's normal if you shut off a hot engine it will gain heat at the temperature sensor because it's no longer circulating the coolant . But I'll bet you know that now . Drive it back to the yard and blow it off real well and go back to work ..
Internal water pump either weak/failing and/or gasket leaking coolant / causing oil to mix with antifreeze to cause the odd smoke? Would reduce cooling efficiency and lead to the overheating. If someone didn't put the right coolant mix in it before, let it freeze hard one winter, all sorts of drama happens. Prayers!
Injector pump, and leaky injectors. It is running LEAN = HEAT
Does it have a cooling fan and if yes was it working. I know cars with AC on but no fan working have hard time keeping inside of car cool and in that heat would overheat the engine. Just a thought
nice tractor therapy video...until the end when it broke :-(
Haha, yeah the first part was great! 😂
Seems like a lot of folks are having trouble with the new units..
You put a big load on a diesel engine it will puff black smoke. I would shut off the ac and slow down a little with that big of a brush cutter. And always let it idle for a couple minutes before shutting it off unless it is really over heating. The engine will thank you for it.
Sounds like your water pump may be going out. ???
Take air compressor blow from back to front to get it cleaned out blow water from to back with spray nossel
There was something very relaxing about watching this video, up until the tractor stopped. I wish I had more mechanical expertise to offer a more informed opinion on what it might be that caused the overheating, but you did mention the AC in the cab was sluggish, so my thoughts turn to a circulation issue somewhere, perhaps a blockage in or near what is pumping the coolant?
Other than that, my best guess would be that the thingy next to the other gizmo has stopped working. :)
Yeah, my machines groan at my lack of mechanical skills as well, sorry bout that. LOL
Haha, yeah, I'm not a mechanic either. Maybe a creature got inside there overnight and caused some issues that I can't see. Not sure yet!
Would love to know if youve had that TS10 on a hill and if the 4066r had any trouble with power. Thanks
thick black smoke and overheating? You have more fuel than air. blown turbo or overzealous injectors. im not always right but i always think of the most expensive things first. if not check your air filter and air intake for clogs. OR if you have no compression in the cylinders its a blown head gasket.. but check everything first.
Wondering if this tractor has a hydraulic oil cooler? (Oil to water/coolant) In the automotive world I know you can end up with similar issues if you have an internal cooler leak allowing hydraulic fluid to mix with the coolant. That could explain both recent issues.
Good question. I believe it does. There would probably be noticeable separation in the tank between those fluids?
@@GoodWorksTractors yes, it might not be so apparent in the field, but I would expect the fluid to be cloudy/muddy. After sitting for some time possibly an oil slick at the top of the radiator or coolant jug.
Could you realistically run this on a 3 series JD (33 PTO Hp)?
I wouldn’t try it.
Yeah, I don't think there's any issue. Tractor Time With Tim runs on a 2038r in a couple videos.
Are you going to follow up with the reason(s) the JD was no cooperating? If there is any guage I watch the most, it's the engine temp.....like a hawk! I carry a brush or hand broom to clear of the grille or radiator or what ever. If I need to, I go back to the barn to the air compressor. Works every time. Engine heat is not your friend.....
Yeah, I plan to for sure. Frustrating!
You could spell your name in the field
That would have been great
My 3046 John Deere is worthless to mow with. The high speed light weight motors with an undersized radiator requires a high speed fan and lots of air to cool the undersized radiator. Net result, the fan sucks in debris and plugs the radiator within 20 minutes. I use my older tractors like my 955 and 855 to mow with. When I was a kid mowing with a G John Deere we didn’t clean the radiator all year. Even my 299D2 Cat has to be cleaned every 2-3 hours when mowing. The fan on it sounds like a helicopter.
Does your radiator cover get covered pretty quickly
Please let us know what you find.
how big of a spacer can i safely run on my 3038E
Hey yall , i have BUSCHES ON MY PROPERTY and yall was ar had a link for a spade attachment for a front loader ...how much are they and when can i pick one up before fall....
8/12/21; 2day yur 'Pulling Bat Wing & JD overheat'..was emotional in 2 ways: 1, absolutely great visual Droan footage from opening, during yur cutting 2-3ft high brush..from 300ft birds eye view of your beautiful acreage showing 'sculptured' cutting & descending down to flying 'waist high' ground level views. 2nd Sad to see that big, new JD tractor dead in the field! Waaay too much trouble coming from this tractor! Feel sick for you on this! Glad you are showing this to us! Please keep us informed! That is huge hassle & anxiety to deal with: disconnecting mower & getting heavy tractor relocated? ..and/or getting JD 'call-out/road service' tech to drive his service truck into the (dry enough?) pasture & analyze & fix your new stalled $$ tractor! !🤬👨🔧
What a bummer.
Yeah, bummer, but we'll get back at it soon...I hope!
Kinda disappointed you didn't carve GWT into the grass as the first pass.
Would've been great!
I'm gettin sick of hearing and contending with reliability issues. My 1025r is beautiful. Has 35 hrs. About to warranty it for a 2nd time. My family has a 1950 AC CA model that the brakes are worn off and it just keeps going. Who knows how many hours it ran the bush hog empty of fluids or how much water has been in the oil from sitting outside all winter? I can't keep hydro lines from bursting or the underbelly attachments from falling apart on the 1025r and it eating itself. Lean 6S has failed this time.
Yeah, sometimes things happen. My 1025r has been pretty reliable overall. Front axle seal leak, but not the end of the world. Had to replace the battery. I think that's all and I am trying to push it to the limits.
Your drone man needs a pay raise….
Isn't he good?
Yup, love the positive attitude. (Landing strip)
Always keep a m18 leaf blower on the rig to blow her out after a while
Maybe so, but this was not a case of debris build up while mowing. There was almost nothing on the outside screen and the tractor had been serviced and detailed recently with only about 3 hours on it since then.
How big is the field or open area on your new property?
That field we're in is about 12 acres. The one on the other side of the fence row is a little smaller.
BYTW i dont want to create any axel stress
Any spacer will add more stress than no spacer. I'm not sure how additional stress would be calculated or when it reaches an unsafe amount. I do know that it's more important to me to stabilize my tractor vs shortening axle life.
Courtney, I'd recommend taking the pallet forks off -- you've got a big ass headache rack out in front, and I'm thinking air flow is blocked by the fork rack, and combine that to stressing the tractor with that big batwing mower, I think it becomes a perfect storm.
I normally have a bucket or grapple on as protection against the unknown. I don't think that's much of an issue. The tractor is going 3mph, not highway speeds though. Have never had an issue pop up this bad previously.
Courtney are you regretting selling the 5115m yet
Haha, sorta except that would be even more expensive attachments and hard to navigate the rest of the property with it besides this small section.
Traded my 4 series for a 5075e
Is there a discount from Bora? Thanks
Negative
Typo I meant to say mow not move.
Haha, I'm more of an abstract kind of artist!
Nothing runs like a Deere till they don’t
Yeah, this one is seeing a lot of down time. No bueno.
@@GoodWorksTractors any buddy looking for a barely used 4720. Will trade for a 4066. Lol. Was it a thermostat?
Sounds like a clogged or stuck thermostat or a bad water temp sensor.
Could be!
From what I read. Your overworking that tractor with that mower. According to the info I got off the net. That mower is required to have a minimum of 60 horsepower and that tractor has a PTO horsepower rating of 56hp.
That 3515 is more than that 4720 can handle.
You read the wrong stuff unfortunately. This mower only takes 25HP at the PTO. I sell tractor attachments and know how to properly match equipment to the tractor. www.rhinoag.com/products/rotary-cutters/flex-wing/ts10/
Gremlins. Lol. That's frustrating. All symptoms put together sound like computer or electrical related? Hard when JD Deere can't figure it out. Good luck.
Haha, it might be gremlins! Hadn't checked for those yet 😂
should have kept the 4066
Haha I know!
change fuel filter
I challenge your driving skills move the name John Deere in the field.
Your radiator, A/C condenser, and engine air filter are packed full of grass seed. Pretty simple.
Nope, it's almost like you didn't listen to a thing I said.
@@GoodWorksTractors The radiator can appear clean but be packed between the fins deeper inside.
Squeeze that lemon and pass it on as lemonade to someone else.
Might need to