Tamiya 1/14 Truck Steering Modification... The Easy way...
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ม.ค. 2017
- This will improve the steering lock and turning circle of your American Style Tamiya 1/14 Scale RC Tractor Truck using only basic tools & basic skills, and only replacing the Stock Link Rod Ball Ends with Cranked Ball Ends from RC4WD....
You will still have a little Play/Slop in the stock joints and stock hubs which is common with Tamiya Trucks.... you can reduce Slop/Play by buying a All Alloy pre-assembled axles off eBay but you will still have to do this modification to it to improve the steering angle....
So I have the long and short M3 ball ends, I plan on disassembling the front axle and using brass shim stock to snug up the pins, trimming the first web to create the initial clearance, and then bending the drag link rod just behind the threaded section to pull the stems back and avoid or minimize cutting on the shock hangers.
I'll be putting the steering servo in the stock position but using a short horn to get the rod in line; Flipping the servo and using the supplied long aluminium arm, I ended up needing to crank the servo endpoints down to like 30%, which I can tell is making the action really... Gritty, I think is the right term.
Awesome awesome
For anyone like myself who has come across this great little mod, the rod ends are called "M3 offset long plastic rod ends" now, not "cranked ball ends". ;-)
Very simple and clever upgrade!! I'll have to try that on my upcoming build.
very simple, very low cost and effective modification, my king hauler truck turns tighter than a 4x2 Scania 🙂
Yeah, I'm looking forward to that!! I've got a Grand Hauler on the way, and if budget allows - a Globe Liner too!! 😁
This is definitely a worthwhile Upgrade!!
First thing i noticed with my truck. This mod is perfect
great tip, thanks. 😀 👍 👍 👍
Very nice, Teri!
Instead of the RC4WD rod ends, you can use the standard Tamiya ones and get some M3 threaded bar (all thread) from a local hardware store or ebay. I'd get some stainless steel (or brass if you don't mind the gold :D ), because the zinc threaded rods are low quality steel that might break if you don't bend it carefully.
Then you bend the rod into this shape \_________/ to clear the (modified) holders.
The steering geometry on these trucks is not perfect. The shaft of the servo should be directly under the front axle beam for proper kinematics, but with the motor in the way, your solution is the best you can do with standard-size servos. Maybe using a mini servo for the gear change could allow a better arrangement for the steering. But then it gets quite involved with new brackets and so forth...
the video was to show the easiest and cheapest way of doing it for people with who have limited tools and skills... plus the RC4WD Ball Ends have less play than the ones which come in the kit which you would be using if you got M3 rod and bent it yourself.... :o)
Hope I didn't offend you, Teri! Was just thinking both options are similar money, performance and effort, so no harm in suggesting it :)
YensR
absolutely... either way will work... :o)
do you know that you can improof your steering angle by bending the connection rod 45° where the joint end are at the end of the threaded area on both ends this
will make one side getting more angle and create an asymetric steering, did that on my knight hauler, wich now is a 359, gonna do it on my scanias as well.
that's a great mod I may well try this on my grand hauler
madtopp
the Grand Hauler would be much better with it, and it's not much work either...
Yeah I've been looking at something like this for a while seeing the length of it make's the turning circle bad
Nice mod
Muito boa a sua informação ,gostei vou aplicar no meu tamiya ; D
De nada... :o)
How to attach standard 12 mm Hex wheels to this axle. Please help :)
You can buy hex to bearing adaptors...
Https://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/321031
Or search your country for them, they might be on eBay.
Ok, that seems good - but what's about wheel nut? Wouldn't it stop wheel from spinning?
There is a easier way first take left upright off then the right upright put left upright on right side and right on left side so the tie-rod is at the front of truck then put servo so shaft is at the back then connect steering rod
that doesn't work as good as this way... the steering is impaired buy the Axle also so you need to file out the part where it hits... swapping the hubs over right to left and left to right so the Link Rod is on the opposite side will only improve it slightly and not as much as doing it this way... I've done it the way you suggested years ago...
Check out how to make steering better by star man that is my truck
Steven Wakefield
no thanks, my way works perfectly... :o)
OK don't want us to fall out but If you don't look at my video you will never known but l am not say what l have done best but it does work
Steven Wakefield
I used to do it that way... but now I do it this way... :)
How much did you pay for the metal front axle?
It's the stock axle that comes in the Tamiya kit... :)
@@TeriWilde thanks, is it worth changing the stock akle for an all metal one?
Personally, I don't think it's worth the extra cost. An all metal might give a little less play but I've never really seen any significant advantage...
@@TeriWilde thank you.
💫⭐️💫⭐️💫💫⭐️💫⭐️
How can I change the rate the servo turns around? Anyone got any ideas?
"change the rate"... I'm not sure I understand what you mean....?
Teri Wilde can you make the servo turn more with a digital transmitter?
it depends what servo you use, what radio you use and what settings you use...
Teri Wilde yeah you was right. It was the transmitter settings. It needed some fine tuning and it's perfect now thank you Teri. Next question is about the mfc-01. Can you do a short video on some hints and tips on the wiring? Things like how to hide the wires well and if you did anything different to make it more tidy? Also a brief show on the mfc itself with the plugs in. I know it's a lot to ask but I would like to do it once and not many times trying different configurations
just wrap them up in tape and feed them through 6mm holes drilled through the chassis cross members for the rear lights... if you're on Facebook join the Group I help Admin because there's an endless source of helpful hints and tips.... facebook.com/groups/tamiyasemitrucks/