LOL but they might be missing an entire PSU too. Just that it's one of their most basic 550W models (not 1,500!!) I recently bought a Thermaltake case that came with a cheap non 80+ certified 450W PSU and it looked similar to this one right down to the single Rubycon cap (the one big one, the rest were all Chinese)
I can see that it's a recent UTPower platform, but it's not the lowest end execution of it. I'm thinking a good bit more than 450, but without looking at each component, it's difficult to guess. But caution is advised, since i've seen someone order this exact item with same description and same enclosure and same sticker from a different similar website and receive the usual $10 ATX 1.x junk board inside that is not suitable for any modern PC. It's some kind of salvage operation that just packages up whatever they can get their hands on.
@@kire929I rate it a you'd have to pay me to use one out of 10. it probably won't explode, but the ripple is horrendous and will cause instability and premature vrm failure.
Yes, if you can find a motherboard to support that 250w inferno of a CPU and the quite rare and expensive R9 295X2. Oh and enough cooling to keep it from setting itself on fire.
Looking at the internals I say: 1) You have enough heat sink mass to support 500 Watts _Maximum_ OR 2) It will deliver 1500 Watts because it is 99.5% efficient go with (1)
it has actually good internals for noname psu for example all noname pover supply units that seen is ~350w max (they burns/explode at 400-450w of load) none of them had dc-dc converters, emi filter or even apfc (i remember in 1 of them had fake ppfc inductor, just a box with metal pieces inside of it)
about main inductor - i can guess it's around 350-500w but it's needs to test how hot is it underload (over 95°C is actually hot for intuctors because of wire isolation that can melt because of high temperatures)
Rubicon are good quality capacitors (are you sure it wasn't "Lubicon" -- a Chinese knock-off? :-)). The soldering of the wiring in that PSU was pretty dodgy and the lightweight metalwork reeks of cost-cutting. I would not risk any expensive computer components to it.
That “soldering” I think you’re talking about is glue that helps hold various components in place, you see it in quite a lot of power supply units, especially external bricks for things like consoles. But yeah, seems fairly legit internals to be honest, but can’t understand why you would need that amount of power with that cable arrangement.
It feels more like a filler video with no content. People will notice if you are ignorant about a particular subject and will call you on it. It feels like he's assuming that people are not very smart which is kind of insulting for his audience.
My thoughts exactly, his sacrificicial CPU is better than 3-4/5 in my apartment... I have a phenom II black in a drawer you can overclock and blow up, that's kinda why I have it
@@DawidDoesTechStuff I atm use an I5-7600K and you dare call it a sacrificial component. My pc is hurt. (Have been running it at 4.6 ghz for the past 3 years, been holding up very well)
My theory is it's a "third-shift" ThermalTake PSU. It's pretty common for factories to make unauthorised extra units during downtime and sell them on the grey market. It would explain why the PSU was completely unbranded except for the fan, yet seemed to work and be relatively decent.
It has "As sealed stick was removed, lost or damaged it shall be out of warranty validity" written on the side. Yep, nothing at all suspicious there. It's GOT to be legit!
I bought a power supply that has the same sticker. It's 800W. I bought it to be used as a power supply for a battery charger, because it pulls 600W on the input.
Steve from Gamers Nexus has PSU testing equipment, maybe send it to him if possible and see if it goes boom? And the wattage is peak for sure, not continuous. :P
You could also try DiodeGoneWild. It's dodgy Chinese crap that's likely to burst in flames so it's right up his alley! He can even make use of that plug that came with it.
Dawid Does Tech Stuff you can make a heater wire, it’s just 12v load you don’t need it to be from a computer. For example, you can use heavy gauge copper housing wire and cut to the correct resistance for the load you want. I was going to do this for testing power supplies also in the 1500w range and setting the 12v powered cable in a 5 gallon bucket of water (since it’s 12v, even wet it can’t shock you, the water keeps it from overheating and it will take a pretty long test run before the water gets too hot). Or there are RC airplane motors or any high 12v load that would also work. Power = V^2/R, so resistance = v^2/power or 12^2/1500 means you need 0.096 ohm so like 10 wires of 1 ohm each in parallel or just a thick copper wire ;)
It good power supply (not really) from cap and look is fucking good bit then again idk what componen they use but that power supply is decent you can see the pcb is black (they dont cut the cost) and the have like card pcb that cost more i think is a decent psu but yeah my best bet it can go to 1500 for 1 sec and your house on fire
You are actually quite stupid. The manufacturer is a noname chinese company, just multiplied the actual PSU wattage number by 2. That's it that's literally all they did. The PSU (750W) is not that bad to be honest either. Though I wouldn't put it in my system, it seems to be working better than my branded cooler master one.
I even doubt anything more like 450W would be powered... Even a LC420 from those cheap dogy case psu combos from LC Power is built better internally. And they are know to be insurances worst enemy...
This is a 350w or so PSU based on the Bulk capacitor that it has. Usually in this configuration, they attribute roughly 1uF per watt . It looks like a very decent quality 350ish power supply as it has branded capacitor, proper input filtering,what looks like dedicated pcbs for 5 and 3.3 volt,even PFC. So it is an OK product in a kinda higher price.
The uF is equally dependent on switching frequency than watts for ripple caps tho..(edit: if you were referring to the low voltage side) I would like to see it's emi ratings actually tested as well as how well that pf works. I am willing to bet that stuff is one gaint noise source for rf
probably just unbranded leftover parts from the Corsair/Thermaltake factory which is common for Chinese manufacturers to use excess parts and designs for "side projects" just without the brand name on it plus to my understanding there is only really 2-3 actual psu manufacturers and then Corsair, Thermaltake etc just slap their branding on with maybe a few minor tweaks especially on their lower end or entry level stuff
It's a good power supply. Because it has different buck converters for different output voltages from the same 12v rail. And also, it has APFC circuitry - which is a good thing that cheap PSU's don't have.
@@user-bj3pq2si2l Yes, the Name comes from the German Word "Schutzkontakt", but this plug-system is used in many European Countries, as you can check at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schuko
Import charges. You're correct. If they say it's below a certain amount they can avoid paying for it. The old way was to charge stupid low amounts for the product and like £60 for postage
That circuitry looks about the same as some of the ~600W power supplies I've bought from more reputable manufacturers, so I'd be surprised if it's capable of much more than that.
I ordered a $25 "500W" PSU a few years back that looks eerily similar to that one...and is the only piece of computer hardware I've ever owned that actually had a part straight up explode...and since the component exploded, some type of capacitor, I could never figure out what a suitable replacement could be. Not that the PSU was worth resurrecting to begin with...the exploding cap sounded like a freaking gun shot.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff More people should do it, I find the internals most interesting about a PSU. Many people should nonsense about all cheap pus's being rubbish while having no clue to the internals.
It makes me wonder if there is a market for clone or referb first gen riing fans. If I can get them for well under the original retail I would buy them in large volume. I like the style and I have bought knock off and real riing fans many times.
For giggles I would run the serial and or model number of the fan inside... it could be just a clone sticker but I am curious if it is at least pretending to be what it is supposed to be. It seems identical. Also it is hard to find the green ones.
@J Fz Thanks for the detailed breakdown. I was wondering if I should try discharge somethinf but I didnt want to accidently die. I will apply this info next time I open a PSU though.
J Fz working on fridges and A/C I’ve got belts from some larger rated ones from being out late and wanting to get home of the job so not thinking, they aren’t the nicest things. A electrical screwdriver across both points also does the trick.
Looks like a 300 maybe 400W psu... It has common mode ac filtering stage which is usually the first thing to go in a cheapy, looks like secondary is 12V only with modular DC-DC boards providing 5v, 3.3v, another thing not seen in cheapies... I think I see active power factor correction circuitry as well, so it's not a horrifying gutless wonder PSU but nowhere near 1500W. Build quality inside is decent too, they took time to glu things down, components quality looks good... It's a rebadged 300-400W (maybe even 80 plus) PSU, would work great in small budget builds. She's safe to run for sure.
The quality of the board looks really nice I need to say. The coils are well isolated. And the size of the heatsinks looks like it has a lot of MOSFETs for power delivery. What I don't like much is the cable diameter and the number of capazitors. That's means that the output power can be a little bit unstable. You can use a wall wattmeter and a thermal gun. If heatsinks stays below 80° in full load it's will be fine. Obviously it won't deliver 1500w but it can be close to 800-900w
Electrical engineer here! A good power supply is based on a couple factors. 1. Stability of output signal. All power supplies take an AC signal and covert it to a DC signal. The flatness of this DC signal is how good the components are. A wavy DC signal is tough on electronics and can reduce operating life to look at this you really need an Oscilloscope. 2. Second is the ability to provide the desired power load. You test this with a power resistor. The lower the resistance and the higher the power capacity the more expensive the power resistor is. Basically you take an appropriate resistor and short the power supply to ground and if it can continuously provide the needed power you have a good power supply. If you burn up the resistor your power supply is better than expected of it cuts off and blows its fuse you have junk. If it doesn’t have a fuse you might have a neat fire. As far as the components inside you are looking at inductors (the wire coils), capacitors, voltage regulators (the things with heat sinks on them) and diodes and some other interesting parts. The more capacitors and inductors you have the cleaner the signal but the less efficient you’re going to be. It’s a balancing act really. It would be fun to actually test the thing, I’ll be honest I’ve been really into your content lately but this review was a bit lack luster. You didn’t know much about what you were testing and it kind of shows. Your knowledge on motherboards, CPUs, ram and video cards really is outstanding but this seems to have been out of your comfort zone. If you need some help actually testing dodgy power supplies I could give you some tips. I’m honestly a big fan of your work.
To measure it, you would just have to measure the input corrent and multiply it with 230V or whatever voltage you have and you would get the approximate power output in Watts, coz what goes in, goes out.
One of the rectangular silver labels is a quality control label from a hi-pot test, which is a voltage isolation/breakdown test. You could (theoretically) do a lot of calculations based on the component values and figure out how much power it could _supposedly_ put out, but the only way to tell for sure is to hook it up with some adjustable loads on the output to see how many amps it can actually provide without the voltage sagging.
I am a electrical engineer and that doesn't look like a 1500w power supply 7:35 . I have opened power supply before and this look like 300w to 450w power supply
Stored electricity? lol wut? That's not how electricity works. You cannot "store" electricity outside of a battery. If it doesn't have a battery, it doesn't have the capability to shock you when not plugged into a wall. Also, if you are touching the table there, and said table is not made of something like rubber, then you are grounded (weather your feet are touching the floor or not). lmao this statement was like the Verge PC build and how he thought a power supply could short circuit if it touched the case.
Judging from the video, the power supply looks to have decent quality internals. My guess is a more reputable company made a bunch of 400-600w power supply boards, and the client didn't want them for some reason. Perhaps a bad design, or a faulty component, the computers they were built for were discontinued (the quality of them makes me think they were for some OEM equipment) or the client went with a different manufacturer -- it could be for anything. After that, at some point, an enterprising little factory picked them up by some means (my guess, with a large supply of Thermaltake green Riing fans) and plopped the bits into the lowest price enclosures they could find. I'm honestly most curious to two things. One, if there are any production markings on the power supply board; and two, how the fan cable was modified to work with the power supply.
On the fan cable issue, it wasn't modified. At 7:39 you can see where the fan is plugged into what looks like a standard 3 or 4 pin fan header on the PSU logic board.
I know that we didn't get to see any component names etc but having Rubicon caps is a good start. Since we know that the caps are a good brand, then it seems to me to probably be a good quality power supply. Finding out the real power output would let you know if to snap up these puppies before they sell out, or to leave them well alone.
It's quite common to write down value on the CN22 customs declaration, even like sending a package from EU to US. The guy who sent it to you probably didn't know that it's filled with a retail price not with a smaller number that makes you calculate how much of a rip-off it is.
I mean....i have a dodgy ryzen 3 3200g prebuild computer that has a 180w PSU lmao. it works fine, but i cant add 32gb of ram to it like they claim it can take. I just built a $1150 gaming computer for this reason. The PSU cant be switched out so no choice, but in the end it was totally worth!
Lmao If it makes you feel better my ‘gaming’ rig when I made the comment had a power brick and a 1080p 27 inch display Edit: I’m still and idiot and read it as an 150 dollar gaming pc
My guess its a budget 500-750w power supply that has had a sticker put on it look better than it is. most people buying will never use more 500w so will never know they were lied too. You really need an extreme setup to draw 1500 watts.
Be EXTREMELY careful when disassembling a power supply. That big capacitor on the board can store huge voltages. It can bet at 130V potential. Touch any of those contacts on the high voltage side, and you're dead or dying on the floor. You can't really tell what kind of power the power supply is rated at just looking at the components. These things are switching supplies, so there's more going on behind the scenes. One clue would probably be the size of the tracks, but even that doesn't really tell.
This actually looks like a ThermalTake Smart Series Power Supply... they sell pretty cheap, so even buying it at $69 US... they made a profit by reselling it. The Smart Series ranges from 430 watts to 700 watts and is 80plus White certified. It is a perfectly acceptable power supply for a cheap general purpose computer... BUT... The current price (12/21/2020) for a ThermalTake Smart Series 700 Watt Power Supply, New from NewEgg, is $67.92. So even if that was the most expensive version, probably not, you overpaid by getting it through WISH.
TL;DW: Has 0 knowledge about PSUs, his "stress test" was 18 hours of constant 350-400W drawing from the PSU and we're overall left scratching our heads. He doesn't even test it in some more professional way such as with a PSU testing unit that conducts a plethora of tests beforehand.
The Plug is from Germany. It's a Schuko plug. To the quality: On first sight the heat sinks are pretty to small for a PSU with 1500W. It could be that the MOSFETs are go up in smoke some day. The second quality point are the capacitors. If the are from a good brand like Rubycon etc. then it lasts relatively long. But the are some other things too like the Pulse Frequency Modulation to avoid to high ripple voltages, the safety arrangements for shorts, overload etc. To put a PSU to its paces you really need a PSU test system from Chroma. This device also show you the efficiency level, the real wattage etc.
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Whan you started taking damn thing apart, you said something like: "I will isolate myself from the floor"... you really think that it is going to make any difference?
Ehm yes it makes a huge difference. If you have megaohms of resistance to te floor you can touch live wires without getting shocked. Basic electricity
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@@TheAdatto you are wrong. please check at 06:35. Power supply is not connected to power line. Only stored DC in capacitors, no current path to ground... but if you short out the high voltage capacitor with a finger, it will shock you, no matter if you are standing on the ground or floating in the air.
Don't know if you got an explanation what you're looking at. @8:05 minutes. Small white/metal part next to white wire on the right edge is a fuse. Yellow capacitor and coils in lower right corner handle inrush current. Small black with metal part next to the coil is the rectifying bridge that make DC. Big coil in yellow and big capacitor charge and discharge at high frequency through the transformers, black parts in the middle. 3 small optocouplers, 4-legged ic's next to small transformer, handle feedback and controlling of output voltage. This part in the middle is also where you have mains power on the lower side and 3.3, 5 and 12 volts on the upper side. Small diodes , not seen here, rectify AC from transformer. Big coil and capacitors at the output to smooth the voltage for low ripple. The 2 seperate PCBs standing are probably for 5 V and 3.3 V. Since these are seperate PCBs you should be able to put 12 V at the 12 V output and get 5 and 3.3 volts without plugging in the mains cable. Capacitors, especially the big one, should be 105 degree C model instead of 85 degree C for longer life in a PSU. Cheap caps with high ESR generate more heat at the high switching frequency.
The quality seems pretty good The capacitors too Definitely not 1500w but a lot better than other cheap power supplies. Even Corsair's vs series is a lot worst that this. I'm surprised. I guest it's about 550 to 750w good deal
lol its definitely not 750watts, but I guess could be 550 watts, if you compare the board with other 550 power-supplies some things look alike, i am not an expert but that big 400v 330uf capacitor is also in the ''enermax-maxpro 500w power'' and the layout looks close to its, the pcb is about the same size.
so...the conclusion is "the power supply works, and I don't know shit..." ok, no offence, but you basically said nothing. Put that aside, this PSU is probably a 400w one with a 1500w sticker
Testing phase a fire extinguisher was on standby, opening phase an ambulance was on standby. It's rated at 1500 watts in Turkmenistan, around 450 watts in the rest of the modem world.
6:58 No one should repeat what this guy is doing, this is very dangerous, as in deadly dangerous "isolated from the floor" or not! No one should take a power supply apart EVEN if you have never turned it on, they test these out before shipping from the factory, and the capacitors will hold a charge. 8:14 " I dont know what I'm looking at" then why the heck are you taking it apart? That's like me taking apart a gas furnace ( that I know nothing about) then saying, I dont know what this does, but lets look at it. KABOOM!
Buying power supplies above 500 watts usually makes me look at the specs as to the amount of power cables available and whether it is modular or not. If you decide to purchase a PSU above 800 watts then it better have more than a couple of VGA, SATA, and other ancillary cables attached to it.
I was thinking the same thing. If that's a real Rubycon cap in there (look at it closely, some of them are Rulycon, which is a crap Chinese brand), then it's probably a decent 500-600W unit from some Chinese OEM that some crook has put a 1500W label on. No way in hell that can do a thousand, let alone 1500.
3:00 if you look at the input rating it says 115-230V, 5A. So 115V*5A =575W so at 115V input you can't expect more than 575W of power coming thru the PSU
I dabble with stuff like this due to people really wanting to get PCs as cheap as possible. Like a Triple A gaming PC with monitor for $250. I help out with my friends PC Shop/Rental business. My safety limit for me in these PSUs is to divide its supposed power limit in half. In this case at best, I'd be comfortable giving this thing at max 750W of power. The worse thing about these PSUs is not it can explode (After all, even high quality PSUs can still technically blow up when its capacitors fail etc) its that it can catch fire when overloaded due to lack of safety features. PS. For a "dodgy" PSU, its pretty expensive. I can buy 600W True Rated PSUs for $50 nowadays.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
"What plug is that?"
*EU triggered*
Hahaha! I am clearly uncultured.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff that's an EU plug. :)
@@p3chv0gel22 yeah they do DHL was actually founded in San Francisco and DHL are just the first letters of the names of the three original founders
@@PixelSheep ah really? I never saw them outside of Germany😂
Nice to know, thanks
@@p3chv0gel22 DHL is the second largest postal service in the world...
A ThermalTake assembly line somewhere in China is missing a fan.
Haha!! Definitely.
LOL but they might be missing an entire PSU too. Just that it's one of their most basic 550W models (not 1,500!!)
I recently bought a Thermaltake case that came with a cheap non 80+ certified 450W PSU and it looked similar to this one right down to the single Rubycon cap (the one big one, the rest were all Chinese)
Wouldn't doubt it. Fuck china
@Rick Blignaut hes Canadian
@Rick Blignaut Pretty sure he's Welsh. It doesn't sound like an Afrikaner accent to me.
that's a rebranded thermaltake TR2 S. the highest output model is 700 watts, I'm guessing this is the 450 based on it's guts
^ This guy has High PSU Energy
I can see that it's a recent UTPower platform, but it's not the lowest end execution of it. I'm thinking a good bit more than 450, but without looking at each component, it's difficult to guess.
But caution is advised, since i've seen someone order this exact item with same description and same enclosure and same sticker from a different similar website and receive the usual $10 ATX 1.x junk board inside that is not suitable for any modern PC. It's some kind of salvage operation that just packages up whatever they can get their hands on.
From 0 to 10, how would you rate a TR2?
@@kire929I rate it a you'd have to pay me to use one out of 10. it probably won't explode, but the ripple is horrendous and will cause instability and premature vrm failure.
@@butre. What about Aerocool KCAS? I've seen it in a lot of places and I don't know if it's a bang for the buck or just a bad memeable PSU
I like how you’re surprised that your house isn’t on fire 😂
Hahaha!! You never know with this stuff. :P
its crap.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff how did you sleep at night knowing it was on?!!
@@dadgamer6717 he probably didn't. I know I definitely wouldn't.
To be fair it is wish, the website slogan might as well be false advertising central
Best components to really stress test a PSU:
CPU - AMD Fx-9590
GPU - Radeon R9 295X2
gtx 580 quad sli
lol im running that setup and cant even plug my headphones cuz the power fails lol
Well I'm not a whole lot better, 8320 at 4.42ghz all core and RX480 at 1400mhz. Not quite 9590 draw but I'm pushing 1.53v to maintain stable.
R9 290x
Yes, if you can find a motherboard to support that 250w inferno of a CPU and the quite rare and expensive R9 295X2. Oh and enough cooling to keep it from setting itself on fire.
Looking at the internals I say:
1) You have enough heat sink mass to support 500 Watts _Maximum_
OR
2) It will deliver 1500 Watts because it is 99.5% efficient
go with (1)
500W I think you are generous, the fan is a copy for sure
@@Irilia_neko shame he didn't use a kilowatt meter on it to see how much power it pulled running the test system compare to a real power supply
it has actually good internals for noname psu
for example all noname pover supply units that seen is ~350w max (they burns/explode at 400-450w of load) none of them had dc-dc converters, emi filter or even apfc (i remember in 1 of them had fake ppfc inductor, just a box with metal pieces inside of it)
about main inductor - i can guess it's around 350-500w but it's needs to test how hot is it underload (over 95°C is actually hot for intuctors because of wire isolation that can melt because of high temperatures)
@@I_D86 that would be a shitty psu to not shut down if you pushed it past it's power limit
“It could set something on fire”
“I’ll leave it on overnight”
Hahaha!😂
You know a studio full of stuff it's totally free 🤣
Rubicon are good quality capacitors (are you sure it wasn't "Lubicon" -- a Chinese knock-off? :-)). The soldering of the wiring in that PSU was pretty dodgy and the lightweight metalwork reeks of cost-cutting. I would not risk any expensive computer components to it.
Rubicom
The psu looks pretty authentic , by the look of the internals this is probably a used 650w thermaltake psu & they changed the case.
That “soldering” I think you’re talking about is glue that helps hold various components in place, you see it in quite a lot of power supply units, especially external bricks for things like consoles. But yeah, seems fairly legit internals to be honest, but can’t understand why you would need that amount of power with that cable arrangement.
There is a pretty good chance they are fake Rubycon capacitors
these can also be used capacitors, this is not uncommon.
Buys PSU from Wish
Doesn't know anything about PSU's
Makes a video about it that doesn't tell me anything
Great Job dude.
I like Dawid but that was exactly my thought as well :(
Same.
It was a massive waste of everyone's time, including his.
It feels more like a filler video with no content. People will notice if you are ignorant about a particular subject and will call you on it. It feels like he's assuming that people are not very smart which is kind of insulting for his audience.
Not my proudest fap but it will do
That doesn't mean he didn't learn anything from it
"7600k, a sacrifical component" i´ll take it if u dont want it, but dont hurt him >
Haha!! Ill be gentle.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff why not use a old core 2 quad
My thoughts exactly, his sacrificicial CPU is better than 3-4/5 in my apartment... I have a phenom II black in a drawer you can overclock and blow up, that's kinda why I have it
@@DawidDoesTechStuff I atm use an I5-7600K and you dare call it a sacrificial component. My pc is hurt.
(Have been running it at 4.6 ghz for the past 3 years, been holding up very well)
@@k1er4n544 I still use a core 2 duo. This hurts my pc too Dx
My theory is it's a "third-shift" ThermalTake PSU. It's pretty common for factories to make unauthorised extra units during downtime and sell them on the grey market. It would explain why the PSU was completely unbranded except for the fan, yet seemed to work and be relatively decent.
100% correct
They also tend to use parts that didn't pass QC for these types of units.
It has "As sealed stick was removed, lost or damaged it shall be out of warranty validity" written on the side. Yep, nothing at all suspicious there. It's GOT to be legit!
That's exactly what I thought. XD
I bought a power supply that has the same sticker. It's 800W. I bought it to be used as a power supply for a battery charger, because it pulls 600W on the input.
They quoted the price cheaper than it was to pay less tax getting it through customs during shipping.
Steve from Gamers Nexus has PSU testing equipment, maybe send it to him if possible and see if it goes boom?
And the wattage is peak for sure, not continuous. :P
That's a good idea. Ill see what I can do.
You could also try DiodeGoneWild. It's dodgy Chinese crap that's likely to burst in flames so it's right up his alley! He can even make use of that plug that came with it.
JonnyGuru could also look at the internals and tear it a new one, his PSU reviews are highly detailed and one of the most (if not the most) reputable.
Dawid Does Tech Stuff you can make a heater wire, it’s just 12v load you don’t need it to be from a computer. For example, you can use heavy gauge copper housing wire and cut to the correct resistance for the load you want. I was going to do this for testing power supplies also in the 1500w range and setting the 12v powered cable in a 5 gallon bucket of water (since it’s 12v, even wet it can’t shock you, the water keeps it from overheating and it will take a pretty long test run before the water gets too hot). Or there are RC airplane motors or any high 12v load that would also work.
Power = V^2/R, so resistance = v^2/power or 12^2/1500 means you need 0.096 ohm so like 10 wires of 1 ohm each in parallel or just a thick copper wire ;)
@@DawidDoesTechStuff Please send it to DiodeGoneWild :)
"that's pretty dodgy"
Proceeds to cut towards himself with a knife*
but he would dodge that knife!
I'm pretty sure it's a pry tool not a knife
I'm pretty sure it has a bit sharp edge and pointed tip.Call it a showel if you want,but for me it's a knife.
@@TheChudoviste I dont think theres a sharp edge lol, I've used a pry tool like that before for a phone screen and it didnt have a sharp edge
@@TheChudoviste that's not a knife, it's a pry tool bro
I swear that PSU could be used for a terrorist attack 0_0
They just need to integrate it into the White House server stack and it would cause chaos.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff lets hope that doesn't happen. (Harold! fetch the notepad!)
not really
you need 5 volts to produce explosives not 12 unless you hook up the production cells in series but they be too dumb anyway
terrorists will just put down a computer and open metro exodus with that psu
Bomb has been planted(Bombsite Intel)Terrorists Win.
I think by the components:
Inductors: super dodgy
Capacitor: ok
...
I think it can deliver max 800w
i dont think it can go over 500 but even if it can deliver real 1500w i wouldnt use it anyways, ill rather go with lower quality corsair cx
It good power supply (not really) from cap and look is fucking good bit then again idk what componen they use but that power supply is decent you can see the pcb is black (they dont cut the cost) and the have like card pcb that cost more i think is a decent psu but yeah my best bet it can go to 1500 for 1 sec and your house on fire
You are actually quite stupid. The manufacturer is a noname chinese company, just multiplied the actual PSU wattage number by 2. That's it that's literally all they did. The PSU (750W) is not that bad to be honest either. Though I wouldn't put it in my system, it seems to be working better than my branded cooler master one.
I even doubt anything more like 450W would be powered... Even a LC420 from those cheap dogy case psu combos from LC Power is built better internally. And they are know to be insurances worst enemy...
If its from China, i wouldnt count on that Capacitor being an actual Nichicon. There is a big market in China for fakes.
Now we'll all know what happened if u ever stop uploading all of a sudden
Haha!! Please call the fire department if that happens.
Wish: illegaly selling used or broken items to the internet
The internet: "i approve this"
This is a 350w or so PSU based on the Bulk capacitor that it has. Usually in this configuration, they attribute roughly 1uF per watt . It looks like a very decent quality 350ish power supply as it has branded capacitor, proper input filtering,what looks like dedicated pcbs for 5 and 3.3 volt,even PFC. So it is an OK product in a kinda higher price.
The uF is equally dependent on switching frequency than watts for ripple caps tho..(edit: if you were referring to the low voltage side)
I would like to see it's emi ratings actually tested as well as how well that pf works.
I am willing to bet that stuff is one gaint noise source for rf
I think that power supply is pretty impressive and looking on its circuitry it can deliver 500 to 600 watts
probably just unbranded leftover parts from the Corsair/Thermaltake factory which is common for Chinese manufacturers to use excess parts and designs for "side projects" just without the brand name on it plus to my understanding there is only really 2-3 actual psu manufacturers and then Corsair, Thermaltake etc just slap their branding on with maybe a few minor tweaks especially on their lower end or entry level stuff
Oh okay. That makes sense. I wonder if each of these PSUs bought from Wish would be different.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff possibly depending on what materials they had access to
It's a good power supply. Because it has different buck converters for different output voltages from the same 12v rail. And also, it has APFC circuitry - which is a good thing that cheap PSU's don't have.
"Now that its fully primed and ready to kill me, I'm going to be really careful ."
Proceeds to shove a steak knife in it. 😂🤦♂️
He is brave af!
electroboom would be proud
how small are the steaks you're eating?? lmao
2:25 This extra Power-Cord we use in Europe! The plugs name is "Schuko"
Thanks for letting me know. :D
unischuko*
are you sure that is not only the German expression for it?
"SCHUtzKOntakt"
@@user-bj3pq2si2l Yes, the Name comes from the German Word "Schutzkontakt", but this plug-system is used in many European Countries, as you can check at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schuko
German boi
I've heard that they lie about the actual value of the product so that you won't have to pay custom tax or import tax...something like that.
Import charges. You're correct. If they say it's below a certain amount they can avoid paying for it. The old way was to charge stupid low amounts for the product and like £60 for postage
$69
nice
Nice
Nice
@@DawidDoesTechStuff nice
@@DawidDoesTechStuff nice
@@pietervanacht2373 nice
That circuitry looks about the same as some of the ~600W power supplies I've bought from more reputable manufacturers, so I'd be surprised if it's capable of much more than that.
115/230 volts 5 amps ac input.
@ 115 volts, 5 amps and 100% efficiency, that's 575 watts.
@230 volts 5 amps, that's 1150 watts.
They can't even lie correctly on the label :D
1500w I say "No" but it looks more like a middle grade 650 watt unit.
You insulted EU plug how could you ☹️
The EU plug's Mama so fat, when she jump for joy... She get stuck.
@J Fz You know I'm joking right? :O
@J Fz Haha!! Well then I apologize. :P
@J Fz r/wooosh
@@DawidDoesTechStuff r/wooosh
That thing is stable till 500W, above that it could catch fire
At 8:10 you can see markings around the input wires on the PCB, it's a ~500 watt PSU. Thanks for uploading in 4k!
I ordered a $25 "500W" PSU a few years back that looks eerily similar to that one...and is the only piece of computer hardware I've ever owned that actually had a part straight up explode...and since the component exploded, some type of capacitor, I could never figure out what a suitable replacement could be. Not that the PSU was worth resurrecting to begin with...the exploding cap sounded like a freaking gun shot.
I love the fact the you dont know much about the inside, but you still take the time to show us!!
Even though I dont know much about it, I also find it very interesting. :D
Dawid Does Tech Stuff I’m exactly like you! My parents used get so mad at me when I was a kid for doing exactly that
@@pedrofortunas Haha!! Same here. I broke everything trting to get inside. XD
Dawid Does Tech Stuff but when I tried to get everything back together, it magically worked although I still had a few screws left
@@DawidDoesTechStuff More people should do it, I find the internals most interesting about a PSU. Many people should nonsense about all cheap pus's being rubbish while having no clue to the internals.
Opens up, reveals he doesn't know what he's looking at. I love this channel.
Me: can you not deceive people?
Wish: you wish.
Wish GPU’s is one thing, but this
I hear electrical fire
it's really simple, it will last you a week but on the 8th day your entire city is on fire and it's traced back to your pc desk
😂
The biggest surprise was the thermaltake fan.
Is that a first gen riing 140mm?
I know right? It looks like one.
It makes me wonder if there is a market for clone or referb first gen riing fans.
If I can get them for well under the original retail I would buy them in large volume. I like the style and I have bought knock off and real riing fans many times.
For giggles I would run the serial and or model number of the fan inside... it could be just a clone sticker but I am curious if it is at least pretending to be what it is supposed to be. It seems identical. Also it is hard to find the green ones.
"... it may actually set something on fire... so I decided to buy one ..." best part
Like isolating yourself from the floor would help you when you touch a charged capacitor.
Haha!! Every little helps. :P
@J Fz Thanks for the detailed breakdown. I was wondering if I should try discharge somethinf but I didnt want to accidently die. I will apply this info next time I open a PSU though.
J Fz
working on fridges and A/C I’ve got belts from some larger rated ones from being out late and wanting to get home of the job so not thinking, they aren’t the nicest things. A electrical screwdriver across both points also does the trick.
Looks like a 300 maybe 400W psu... It has common mode ac filtering stage which is usually the first thing to go in a cheapy, looks like secondary is 12V only with modular DC-DC boards providing 5v, 3.3v, another thing not seen in cheapies... I think I see active power factor correction circuitry as well, so it's not a horrifying gutless wonder PSU but nowhere near 1500W. Build quality inside is decent too, they took time to glu things down, components quality looks good... It's a rebadged 300-400W (maybe even 80 plus) PSU, would work great in small budget builds. She's safe to run for sure.
"OH its working"
Famous last words
The quality of the board looks really nice I need to say. The coils are well isolated. And the size of the heatsinks looks like it has a lot of MOSFETs for power delivery. What I don't like much is the cable diameter and the number of capazitors. That's means that the output power can be a little bit unstable. You can use a wall wattmeter and a thermal gun. If heatsinks stays below 80° in full load it's will be fine. Obviously it won't deliver 1500w but it can be close to 800-900w
That's almost the same amount of connectors that my CX450M has.
Yeah, it really is very limited. I wonder what kind of output this PSU is actually capable of.
Electrical engineer here!
A good power supply is based on a couple factors.
1. Stability of output signal. All power supplies take an AC signal and covert it to a DC signal. The flatness of this DC signal is how good the components are. A wavy DC signal is tough on electronics and can reduce operating life to look at this you really need an Oscilloscope.
2. Second is the ability to provide the desired power load. You test this with a power resistor. The lower the resistance and the higher the power capacity the more expensive the power resistor is. Basically you take an appropriate resistor and short the power supply to ground and if it can continuously provide the needed power you have a good power supply. If you burn up the resistor your power supply is better than expected of it cuts off and blows its fuse you have junk. If it doesn’t have a fuse you might have a neat fire.
As far as the components inside you are looking at inductors (the wire coils), capacitors, voltage regulators (the things with heat sinks on them) and diodes and some other interesting parts. The more capacitors and inductors you have the cleaner the signal but the less efficient you’re going to be. It’s a balancing act really.
It would be fun to actually test the thing, I’ll be honest I’ve been really into your content lately but this review was a bit lack luster. You didn’t know much about what you were testing and it kind of shows. Your knowledge on motherboards, CPUs, ram and video cards really is outstanding but this seems to have been out of your comfort zone.
If you need some help actually testing dodgy power supplies I could give you some tips. I’m honestly a big fan of your work.
To measure it, you would just have to measure the input corrent and multiply it with 230V or whatever voltage you have and you would get the approximate power output in Watts, coz what goes in, goes out.
thats not a good way to test the efficiency
@@kyles8524 not the accuratest but the easiest
One of the rectangular silver labels is a quality control label from a hi-pot test, which is a voltage isolation/breakdown test. You could (theoretically) do a lot of calculations based on the component values and figure out how much power it could _supposedly_ put out, but the only way to tell for sure is to hook it up with some adjustable loads on the output to see how many amps it can actually provide without the voltage sagging.
“Bomb has been planted”
I am a electrical engineer and that doesn't look like a 1500w power supply 7:35 . I have opened power supply before and this look like 300w to 450w power supply
Oh when you said S.A.T.A cable i could hear the afrikaans almost coming out. 😂 Great vid man!!💪🏻
Stored electricity? lol wut? That's not how electricity works. You cannot "store" electricity outside of a battery. If it doesn't have a battery, it doesn't have the capability to shock you when not plugged into a wall. Also, if you are touching the table there, and said table is not made of something like rubber, then you are grounded (weather your feet are touching the floor or not). lmao this statement was like the Verge PC build and how he thought a power supply could short circuit if it touched the case.
Judging from the video, the power supply looks to have decent quality internals. My guess is a more reputable company made a bunch of 400-600w power supply boards, and the client didn't want them for some reason. Perhaps a bad design, or a faulty component, the computers they were built for were discontinued (the quality of them makes me think they were for some OEM equipment) or the client went with a different manufacturer -- it could be for anything. After that, at some point, an enterprising little factory picked them up by some means (my guess, with a large supply of Thermaltake green Riing fans) and plopped the bits into the lowest price enclosures they could find.
I'm honestly most curious to two things. One, if there are any production markings on the power supply board; and two, how the fan cable was modified to work with the power supply.
On the fan cable issue, it wasn't modified. At 7:39 you can see where the fan is plugged into what looks like a standard 3 or 4 pin fan header on the PSU logic board.
Check the amps on the fuse. Multiply with your wall socket Voltage and then you know that it's certain that the useable Watts is less than that.
I'm must say i'm disappointed that it just kind of worked... was hoping for some fireworks
Definitely. I was pretty disappointed when I woke up the next moring and nothing was on fire.
I know that wasn't supposed to sound suicidal but my god man. It almost sounded like you were upset that you even woke up at all....
Dawid: thats not very much.
Pulls out a nest of cables
I know that we didn't get to see any component names etc but having Rubicon caps is a good start. Since we know that the caps are a good brand, then it seems to me to probably be a good quality power supply. Finding out the real power output would let you know if to snap up these puppies before they sell out, or to leave them well alone.
It's quite common to write down value on the CN22 customs declaration, even like sending a package from EU to US. The guy who sent it to you probably didn't know that it's filled with a retail price not with a smaller number that makes you calculate how much of a rip-off it is.
I read it as a 150w psu and was thinking “they make these?”
I mean....i have a dodgy ryzen 3 3200g prebuild computer that has a 180w PSU lmao. it works fine, but i cant add 32gb of ram to it like they claim it can take.
I just built a $1150 gaming computer for this reason. The PSU cant be switched out so no choice, but in the end it was totally worth!
Lmao If it makes you feel better my ‘gaming’ rig when I made the comment had a power brick and a 1080p 27 inch display
Edit: I’m still and idiot and read it as an 150 dollar gaming pc
All u need to mesure the curent is a shunt(or a long wire) and simple multimeter
My guess its a budget 500-750w power supply that has had a sticker put on it look better than it is. most people buying will never use more 500w so will never know they were lied too. You really need an extreme setup to draw 1500 watts.
Yeah, I agree. That is definitely what they are doing.
Be EXTREMELY careful when disassembling a power supply. That big capacitor on the board can store huge voltages. It can bet at 130V potential. Touch any of those contacts on the high voltage side, and you're dead or dying on the floor.
You can't really tell what kind of power the power supply is rated at just looking at the components. These things are switching supplies, so there's more going on behind the scenes. One clue would probably be the size of the tracks, but even that doesn't really tell.
I wonder how bad the efficiency of that thing is, given that it doesn't have that 80+ sticker certification
I know right! I cant imagine how bad it must be
or 90+ (if you know the fake PSU market)
Dawid: It may could potentially set something on fire
also Dawid: *OVER NIGHT STRESS TEST*
Its under 33 $ because the German police (Zoll) dont will look inside to proof the Quality.
This actually looks like a ThermalTake Smart Series Power Supply... they sell pretty cheap, so even buying it at $69 US... they made a profit by reselling it.
The Smart Series ranges from 430 watts to 700 watts and is 80plus White certified. It is a perfectly acceptable power supply for a cheap general purpose computer... BUT...
The current price (12/21/2020) for a ThermalTake Smart Series 700 Watt Power Supply, New from NewEgg, is $67.92. So even if that was the most expensive version, probably not, you overpaid by getting it through WISH.
Dawid: "For todays video, i bought some more dodgy crap"
Me: This man has earned another subscription.
Also 69$? LMAO
Yr sacrificial components like gold for me .
You're isolating yourself from the floor? How does that help with a DC capacitor?
it's so that he isn't grounded
TL;DW: Has 0 knowledge about PSUs, his "stress test" was 18 hours of constant 350-400W drawing from the PSU and we're overall left scratching our heads.
He doesn't even test it in some more professional way such as with a PSU testing unit that conducts a plethora of tests beforehand.
80+ certification doesn't beans that the power supply isn't going to blow it only has to do with the efficiency nothing else
Yeah I know, but atleast it means it passed some actual tests.
yeah my power supply has 80+ but the beans inside of it makes it less efficient
what do you bean? dude that doesn't bean anything...I bean, judging by what you're saying, 80+ beans nothing?!?!?!? what the bean dude
The Plug is from Germany. It's a Schuko plug. To the quality: On first sight the heat sinks are pretty to small for a PSU with 1500W. It could be that the MOSFETs are go up in smoke some day. The second quality point are the capacitors. If the are from a good brand like Rubycon etc. then it lasts relatively long. But the are some other things too like the Pulse Frequency Modulation to avoid to high ripple voltages, the safety arrangements for shorts, overload etc. To put a PSU to its paces you really need a PSU test system from Chroma. This device also show you the efficiency level, the real wattage etc.
Whan you started taking damn thing apart, you said something like: "I will isolate myself from the floor"... you really think that it is going to make any difference?
Željan Alduk as long as it wasn’t just me who laughed at that haha 😂 gotta watch out for that conductive floor 😂 his pc must be powered by lightning!
Ehm yes it makes a huge difference. If you have megaohms of resistance to te floor you can touch live wires without getting shocked. Basic electricity
@@TheAdatto you are wrong. please check at 06:35. Power supply is not connected to power line. Only stored DC in capacitors, no current path to ground... but if you short out the high voltage capacitor with a finger, it will shock you, no matter if you are standing on the ground or floating in the air.
@ i know but i mean if you touch ONLY the live plus side. And if you touch both with a finger the shock will be mostly in the finger from + finger -.
Don't know if you got an explanation what you're looking at. @8:05 minutes. Small white/metal part next to white wire on the right edge is a fuse. Yellow capacitor and coils in lower right corner handle inrush current. Small black with metal part next to the coil is the rectifying bridge that make DC. Big coil in yellow and big capacitor charge and discharge at high frequency through the transformers, black parts in the middle. 3 small optocouplers, 4-legged ic's next to small transformer, handle feedback and controlling of output voltage. This part in the middle is also where you have mains power on the lower side and 3.3, 5 and 12 volts on the upper side. Small diodes , not seen here, rectify AC from transformer. Big coil and capacitors at the output to smooth the voltage for low ripple. The 2 seperate PCBs standing are probably for 5 V and 3.3 V. Since these are seperate PCBs you should be able to put 12 V at the 12 V output and get 5 and 3.3 volts without plugging in the mains cable. Capacitors, especially the big one, should be 105 degree C model instead of 85 degree C for longer life in a PSU. Cheap caps with high ESR generate more heat at the high switching frequency.
The quality seems pretty good
The capacitors too
Definitely not 1500w but a lot better than other cheap power supplies. Even Corsair's vs series is a lot worst that this. I'm surprised. I guest it's about 550 to 750w good deal
It's seems very reliable to me not a firestarter whatsoever you can use it safely
@@panosd5693 Oh really? That's interesting. So maybe if they advertised it accurately, it will actually be decent?
Of course from the teardown seems very well designed and with good quality capacitors
@@DawidDoesTechStuff so can you give us link?
lol its definitely not 750watts, but I guess could be 550 watts, if you compare the board with other 550 power-supplies some things look alike, i am not an expert but that big 400v 330uf capacitor is also in the ''enermax-maxpro 500w power'' and the layout looks close to its, the pcb is about the same size.
"As sealed stick was removed. Lost or damaged it shall be out of warranty validity!"
And that's a great price!
I know right! What a bargain.
North American space heaters consume around 1500 watts, which is a wattage reccomend to be ran continuously on a 15/20 amp circuit
pro tip: Keep the beard
Dawid: This is the 8 pin cable for the gpu
Cable: ... out of frame.
so...the conclusion is "the power supply works, and I don't know shit..." ok, no offence, but you basically said nothing. Put that aside, this PSU is probably a 400w one with a 1500w sticker
Testing phase a fire extinguisher was on standby, opening phase an ambulance was on standby. It's rated at 1500 watts in Turkmenistan, around 450 watts in the rest of the modem world.
6:58 No one should repeat what this guy is doing, this is very dangerous, as in deadly dangerous "isolated from the floor" or not! No one should take a power supply apart EVEN if you have never turned it on, they test these out before shipping from the factory, and the capacitors will hold a charge. 8:14 " I dont know what I'm looking at" then why the heck are you taking it apart? That's like me taking apart a gas furnace ( that I know nothing about) then saying, I dont know what this does, but lets look at it. KABOOM!
Patrick G. Shut the fuck up
I like how he read comments and actually replay to them hats of to this man:)
this plug is used in europe, who doesn't know that
lack of formation
Filipe Coelho Uhh... people who aren’t from Europe?
Buying power supplies above 500 watts usually makes me look at the specs as to the amount of power cables available and whether it is modular or not. If you decide to purchase a PSU above 800 watts then it better have more than a couple of VGA, SATA, and other ancillary cables attached to it.
✌️😏 send it over to johnyguru for analysis
I was thinking the same thing. If that's a real Rubycon cap in there (look at it closely, some of them are Rulycon, which is a crap Chinese brand), then it's probably a decent 500-600W unit from some Chinese OEM that some crook has put a 1500W label on. No way in hell that can do a thousand, let alone 1500.
@@johncate9541 🙂 yes maybe its at least a 500w psu if hes lucky ☺️☘️
"Oh, nothing's exploded."
Why does he sound disappointed
The claimed value likely has something to do with shipping insurance of some kind. They claimed a lower number for cheaper coverage.
looks like a 400 watt power supply from 2004 on the inside
3:00 if you look at the input rating it says 115-230V, 5A. So 115V*5A =575W so at 115V input you can't expect more than 575W of power coming thru the PSU
"sacrificial components" dooode that pc is 3x more than my current rig
Ah, time to buy this for my 3090 build.
those thermaltake fans are actually very good fans lol especially on radiators
This thing looks like an about 500 watts PSU but really not too bad, just like an old fashion 2010 PSU.
the heatsinks look pretty beefy, but i dont think it could handle more than 450w.
Binging Dawid content and getting these gems of two years ago!
This is the "Mr Burn Your House Down" tier PSU, rated for 10 MINUS
I dabble with stuff like this due to people really wanting to get PCs as cheap as possible. Like a Triple A gaming PC with monitor for $250. I help out with my friends PC Shop/Rental business.
My safety limit for me in these PSUs is to divide its supposed power limit in half. In this case at best, I'd be comfortable giving this thing at max 750W of power.
The worse thing about these PSUs is not it can explode (After all, even high quality PSUs can still technically blow up when its capacitors fail etc) its that it can catch fire when overloaded due to lack of safety features.
PS. For a "dodgy" PSU, its pretty expensive. I can buy 600W True Rated PSUs for $50 nowadays.
That's not a psu, that's a bomb