Thanks! I think that a good sharp handsaw is one of the most important tools in a woodworking tool kit and a woodworking work shop. You can control it to your own preferences and speed. It also cuts downwards so there’s every chance of a clean cut on the face of your material. There’s so many more reasons to use one as often as you can manage. The more you practice (in a safe manner) the better you’ll get. Thanks for subscribing also, I really appreciate it. James
OH WOW -THANK you...BOTH tips are awesome !! ( Plus you've just SAVED me from hiring or buying a rail saw !! .MASSIVE thank you !!!! ) 50 ++++ ( lol) lady having a go at fitting a kitchen ( gulp) .. how hard can it be right ( huh oh ) lol..mm
Take your time and you’ll get there and then you’ll be proud! Just a bit at a time and don’t worry about the next task, just concentrate on the one you’re on, one step at a time.
You are right , hand cutting is the tidiest of all but most will laugh at you and get the jig saw or table saw out because that is the fashion, but you can’t beat a sharpe saw 👍
Mate, this is the best scribing explanation I have seen compared to both TH-cam, and joiners who have explained this to me. The tip on angling the saw is amazing. Your finish flush to the wall is the best I have seen, again, on youtube and in person. Massive salute to you. P. S if you were putting in a run of kitchen base units, would you put one to the wall, and scribe it, and then do the next one, and screw them together, and carry on the run like that? I hope the question makes sense. Cheers 👍🏽
Hi, thanks for your nice comments. Regarding scribing units that are between the end ones in a run, I would just cut away a proportion from back leaving about 100mm at the top to bracket to the wall if required. This allows for services like pipes, cables etc to run behind the units and stops the need to scribe them. Maybe you’ll need to take a bit off of the remaining top 100mm if the wall isn’t straight to get the units straight at the front. If you have end panels you can do this to the end units too as they won’t be seen as the panels will cover them. If you’re scribing the end (seen side) of a unit it can be done with a block. I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can help or explain further. James
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 Hi James, you are welcome, just being honest mate 👍🏽 Yes that makes perfect sense. When you say the end panel which can be seen can be scribed using a block, do you mean an offcut of timber for example? I've actually been hanging some kitchen doors today which I found to be a nightmare as there were no pre-drilled holes in the units, any tips on how to do this effectively. The way I did it was to line the first door up with the hinge on, removed the screw, and marked this point with a pencil. I then screwed the hinge into the unit, and marked the other 3 hinge holes. For subsequent units I just took the actual measurements for the holes and transferred them. I have a feeling there is a much simpler way of doing it. Anyway sorry for the length of this post, think I need to scribe it down a bit 🤣 Thank you again for your help 👍🏽
I think that the best way to get the backplate holes piloted for positioning in the side of the unit would be to make a jig/template that has the holes pre drilled in it. That way you just need to push a drill bit through the jig/template and put a little mark on the unit to drill or screw directly into. You can get the front of unit to screw positioning measurement either by using the hinge manufacturers recommended measurements or measuring the distances with a backplate on a hinge on a door. For the vertical measurement I normally make the jig/template to sit inside the unit so that means reducing the jig/template by the thickness of the unit at the top or bottom. The size should be- Hinge centre measurement from top or bottom of door + the gap (normally about 2mm. It depends on door manufacturer and unit manufacturer) -(minus) unit top or bottom thickness (normally 18mm but these differ too). I hope this helps. James
Hi James, really appreciate your reply. In the end what I did was really simple, I just hope I can explain it in understandable terms. Basically I got a 2x1 batten, and clamped it under the unit with a g clamp. The side of the batten was flush with the edge of the unit, directly under where the door would sit when screwing in. The length of the batten was about the same size as the width of the cabinet door. This gave me a base for the door to sit on, and also meant that the door was sitting at exactly the right place so that the bottom of the door is flush with the bottom of the unit. I did all the pilot holes and screwed the hinges in, and then removed the g clamp and batten. I had an excellent result. I'm really looking forward to your future videos 👍🏽
That's how they did it in the old days but the best way is to set a slight bevel on the table saw remove the guide and free hand the cut getting as close as possible. It cuts on the down stroke so there won't be any tear out. If you couldn't get it perfect finish it to ur line with the belt sander on the down stroke to also keep from causing tear out. Perfect scribes while also not taking forever cutting it with a handsaw
I got confused with the last scribing and had to rewatch a few times.. you used a 22mm thich scrap block to draw your line and you had the work piece inline with the frame (which is 22mm thick) then once the piece is cut it will be flush with the wonky wall and straight frame? Is that correct? Are those scribing tools and use? Or only for patterns like bricks and skirting etc?
Hi , the 22mm block matches the frame thickness to sit perfectly inside the frame. The smaller the block height the more accurate the scribe, especially on very uneven walls or scribes into patterns. Just make sure to keep the scribe block perfectly horizontal at 90 degrees to the wall.
Great Scribe Trick James!! Learning a lot here. 1 Question Please, in the last scribe you did, what was the thickness of the piece you used with pencil to scribe the line?? Was it the thickness of the large panel you were cutting? OR the Cab front face frame thickness? (or is it a moot question cause they are the same thickness?) HaHa! Thank you in advance, Paul
Hi, to get the panel to sit behind the face frame I would sit the panel flush with the front of the face frame and use a scribe the same thickness as the face frame, therefore taking the amount of the face frame off to sit behind it. James
Hi, good question. First you need to scribe the top and bottom so you can stand the panel upright in position so you can scribe to the wall. A way to do this is to put a level on the ceiling and take a note of the gap (how out of level the ceiling is) over the distance where the panel will be. A way to do this is to use a parallel piece of board/wood that is the same width as the panel and place the level on this. Next do the same with the floor and then measure a level vertical measurement at where the front of the panel will be and also the back. It may be easier to do this by marking the floor and ceiling where the panel will be (use some masking tape to mark on if you don’t want to mark anything). Now you need to set these measurements on your panel. Measure one of the distances (front or back) on your panel and then mark a square line on the panel, top and bottom. The amount of difference that you measured with your level should now be marked on your panel. This amount will be the difference from level (or square) on your panel. Once you’ve done this on the top and bottom you can check how accurate it is by measuring your other distance just to check that it’s correct before cutting. For floors and ceilings that are not straight/flat you need to follow the same process but also create a template from cardboard or a thin board of the scribe and then transfer this onto the board using the front and back marks as your height. Once the panel is sitting upright you can scribe to the wall like in the video. I hope this helps! James
hi, nice video, and its good to see you used simple blocks of wood to help you scribe instead of these gizmos you can buy . Can I ask you a question which may seem a bit silly,,, when you cut the scribe do you cut upto the pencil line or the pencil line also (so in effect when done no pencil line is there any longer) ? thanks in advance
Hi, thanks for your comments. It’s always best to leave the line in when cutting to get a nice gap free scribe. If you are using a finished product and don’t want to have to remove the pencil line I usually put masking tape on the piece to be scribed and mark my line on that and remove the tape once I’m happy with the fit. James
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 excellent idea!! speaking of masking tape someone was showing a tip using it with a nail gun(16 or 18 gauge) put a bit of masking tape where you are going to put the nail so when you come to fill/cover the nail hole, fill in the nail hole, remove masking tape and hey presto no mess. These days so many things out there which make it over complicated and adds to your expense. :) pss what make etc of hand saw was you using mine is a bit c**p ?
Content of your videos is excellent, I need some help understanding wall unit hanging, I'm doing my 1st kitchen fit (in my own home) and was wondering about the wall rail you used to hang the wall units in the small kitchenette, my kitchen is from DIY kitchens and they come with the small brackets (individual) can I use the rail instead to simplify the job?
Hi, yes, you should be able to use the continuous rail as show in the video, just check that the profile is similar to that of which was supplied by your kitchen cabinet supplier. You can purchase these from many places online. They are better to use as they offer more fixing areas. Please let me know if you have any questions. James
Just clamp the end panel level on the unit that it’ll fit to and then measure the overhang on the front. Deduct the door thickness plus a little for a gap between the door (normally about 2mm plus door thickness) and unit then cut a block to that size. Next run a line on the panel with the block against the wall and that’s your cut. It might be best to put masking tape on the panel and mark with a pencil onto that.
@@Hussain-ch3pr there is no need to line up with the back. As long as you are upright (the same measurements at the top and bottom from the unit to the panel front) with the front as the wall will be uneven. The idea is that you remove whatever is overhanging at the front from the back using a scribe block cut to the correct size which you can run along the wall.
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 regarding the cut block, is the size of block equal to the size of the overhang (that needs to be removed from the panel)? Have I understood this correctly, sorry for so many questions 😅
This is very confusing, when scribing the large tall end panel, how is it placed against the side of the wardrobe? It can't be flush and why 22mm in front? Do you have to take a long cut off the back of the panel first before placing and scribing? Great video but just can't work out the position of that big panel!
Hi, the thickness of the face frame is 22mm thick so by putting the panel flush with the front of it and taking 22mm from the back it will sit nicely behind the face frame. If the panel was say 10mm forward of the face frame and you wanted it to sit behind it you would have a scribe block of 22 + 10 = 32mm. Hope this explains James
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 thank you. I was considering buying a festool plainer for the same use, but after spending money on other tools this may be a just effective way to do the same but save on money I have not got :) thanks again and have a good Sunday
you need to mark the piece you are going to save...so we can see exactly which piece is cut off and which is saved and which to cut an angle on. thanks.
Anyone know how to scribe into floor, ceiling and wall with one piece? Well just wall and ceiling because a carpet will hide the floor edge, but the panel must go from floor to ceiling? Also, fantastic saw skills!
Hi, you need to scribe the ceiling first which can normally be done by holding a level on it and noting the difference. Then once you are able to stand the panel up and perfectly level you can scribe to the wall. James
..... thanks for your praise to the sawing skills by the way. No matter how many tools I have on site I still look to the handsaw for scribes. Please let me know if I can advise further on anything. James
That’s what I call sawing skills!!!!. I’d be all over the place with that hand saw😂😂😂😂
Thanks! I think that a good sharp handsaw is one of the most important tools in a woodworking tool kit and a woodworking work shop. You can control it to your own preferences and speed. It also cuts downwards so there’s every chance of a clean cut on the face of your material. There’s so many more reasons to use one as often as you can manage. The more you practice (in a safe manner) the better you’ll get.
Thanks for subscribing also, I really appreciate it. James
Very good, and glad to see I'm not the only carpenter that works in Crocs!
Hi Dave, I normally get slated for wearing Crocs so it’s good to hear that someone else wears them! James
OH WOW -THANK you...BOTH tips are awesome !! ( Plus you've just SAVED me from hiring or buying a rail saw !! .MASSIVE thank you !!!! ) 50 ++++ ( lol) lady having a go at fitting a kitchen ( gulp) .. how hard can it be right ( huh oh ) lol..mm
Take your time and you’ll get there and then you’ll be proud! Just a bit at a time and don’t worry about the next task, just concentrate on the one you’re on, one step at a time.
Great video, Master Grafter! I love the PPE FOOTWEAR
Brilliant. Just what I needed. Really appreciate the clarity and brevity. Watched several videos where the demonstrators yammered on for ages.
Thanks for your comment, it’s good to know that the video is helping. James
You are right , hand cutting is the tidiest of all but most will laugh at you and get the jig saw or table saw out because that is the fashion, but you can’t beat a sharpe saw 👍
Really interesting and helpful ! Thank you for sharing !
Great video! Convinced me to get a hand saw for the job
Mate, this is the best scribing explanation I have seen compared to both TH-cam, and joiners who have explained this to me. The tip on angling the saw is amazing. Your finish flush to the wall is the best I have seen, again, on youtube and in person. Massive salute to you. P. S if you were putting in a run of kitchen base units, would you put one to the wall, and scribe it, and then do the next one, and screw them together, and carry on the run like that? I hope the question makes sense. Cheers 👍🏽
Hi, thanks for your nice comments. Regarding scribing units that are between the end ones in a run, I would just cut away a proportion from back leaving about 100mm at the top to bracket to the wall if required. This allows for services like pipes, cables etc to run behind the units and stops the need to scribe them. Maybe you’ll need to take a bit off of the remaining top 100mm if the wall isn’t straight to get the units straight at the front. If you have end panels you can do this to the end units too as they won’t be seen as the panels will cover them. If you’re scribing the end (seen side) of a unit it can be done with a block.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can help or explain further. James
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 Hi James, you are welcome, just being honest mate 👍🏽 Yes that makes perfect sense. When you say the end panel which can be seen can be scribed using a block, do you mean an offcut of timber for example? I've actually been hanging some kitchen doors today which I found to be a nightmare as there were no pre-drilled holes in the units, any tips on how to do this effectively. The way I did it was to line the first door up with the hinge on, removed the screw, and marked this point with a pencil. I then screwed the hinge into the unit, and marked the other 3 hinge holes. For subsequent units I just took the actual measurements for the holes and transferred them. I have a feeling there is a much simpler way of doing it. Anyway sorry for the length of this post, think I need to scribe it down a bit 🤣 Thank you again for your help 👍🏽
I think that the best way to get the backplate holes piloted for positioning in the side of the unit would be to make a jig/template that has the holes pre drilled in it. That way you just need to push a drill bit through the jig/template and put a little mark on the unit to drill or screw directly into.
You can get the front of unit to screw positioning measurement either by using the hinge manufacturers recommended measurements or measuring the distances with a backplate on a hinge on a door.
For the vertical measurement I normally make the jig/template to sit inside the unit so that means reducing the jig/template by the thickness of the unit at the top or bottom. The size should be-
Hinge centre measurement from top or bottom of door + the gap (normally about 2mm. It depends on door manufacturer and unit manufacturer) -(minus) unit top or bottom thickness (normally 18mm but these differ too).
I hope this helps.
James
Hi James, really appreciate your reply. In the end what I did was really simple, I just hope I can explain it in understandable terms. Basically I got a 2x1 batten, and clamped it under the unit with a g clamp. The side of the batten was flush with the edge of the unit, directly under where the door would sit when screwing in. The length of the batten was about the same size as the width of the cabinet door. This gave me a base for the door to sit on, and also meant that the door was sitting at exactly the right place so that the bottom of the door is flush with the bottom of the unit. I did all the pilot holes and screwed the hinges in, and then removed the g clamp and batten. I had an excellent result. I'm really looking forward to your future videos 👍🏽
That's how they did it in the old days but the best way is to set a slight bevel on the table saw remove the guide and free hand the cut getting as close as possible. It cuts on the down stroke so there won't be any tear out. If you couldn't get it perfect finish it to ur line with the belt sander on the down stroke to also keep from causing tear out. Perfect scribes while also not taking forever cutting it with a handsaw
Excellent video thank you
luvly bit of scribing fair play
Thank you
Beautiful
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks. New sub
Thank you 😊
Beautiful! I'll say
Nice. I do it differently, but I will try it your way. Thank you.
Hopefully I’ve explained it well enough. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
I got confused with the last scribing and had to rewatch a few times..
you used a 22mm thich scrap block to draw your line and you had the work piece inline with the frame (which is 22mm thick) then once the piece is cut it will be flush with the wonky wall and straight frame? Is that correct?
Are those scribing tools and use? Or only for patterns like bricks and skirting etc?
Hi , the 22mm block matches the frame thickness to sit perfectly inside the frame. The smaller the block height the more accurate the scribe, especially on very uneven walls or scribes into patterns. Just make sure to keep the scribe block perfectly horizontal at 90 degrees to the wall.
I thought I recognised you! Hi Jamie 🙌🏻
Hi!
Nice low-tech work 👍 What handsaw would you use for a high-gloss decor end panel? (Screwfix item number welcome! 😀)
Great Scribe Trick James!! Learning a lot here. 1 Question Please, in the last scribe you did, what was the thickness of the piece you used with pencil to scribe the line?? Was it the thickness of the large panel you were cutting? OR the Cab front face frame thickness? (or is it a moot question cause they are the same thickness?) HaHa! Thank you in advance, Paul
Hi, to get the panel to sit behind the face frame I would sit the panel flush with the front of the face frame and use a scribe the same thickness as the face frame, therefore taking the amount of the face frame off to sit behind it. James
Awesome video.
Thanks! Please subscribe, I’ll share some more tips soon!
Great video, i have a side panel i want to fit floor to ceiling for the built in look, any tips on how best to do this well
Hi, good question.
First you need to scribe the top and bottom so you can stand the panel upright in position so you can scribe to the wall. A way to do this is to put a level on the ceiling and take a note of the gap (how out of level the ceiling is) over the distance where the panel will be. A way to do this is to use a parallel piece of board/wood that is the same width as the panel and place the level on this. Next do the same with the floor and then measure a level vertical measurement at where the front of the panel will be and also the back. It may be easier to do this by marking the floor and ceiling where the panel will be (use some masking tape to mark on if you don’t want to mark anything).
Now you need to set these measurements on your panel. Measure one of the distances (front or back) on your panel and then mark a square line on the panel, top and bottom. The amount of difference that you measured with your level should now be marked on your panel. This amount will be the difference from level (or square) on your panel. Once you’ve done this on the top and bottom you can check how accurate it is by measuring your other distance just to check that it’s correct before cutting. For floors and ceilings that are not straight/flat you need to follow the same process but also create a template from cardboard or a thin board of the scribe and then transfer this onto the board using the front and back marks as your height.
Once the panel is sitting upright you can scribe to the wall like in the video.
I hope this helps!
James
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 thanks for your great reply. I really appreciate it. Hopefully i can put your advice into action. Thanks again
Good info.
Thanks Jonathan, please subscribe, I need subscribers 😀
hi, nice video, and its good to see you used simple blocks of wood to help you scribe instead of these gizmos you can buy . Can I ask you a question which may seem a bit silly,,, when you cut the scribe do you cut upto the pencil line or the pencil line also (so in effect when done no pencil line is there any longer) ? thanks in advance
Hi, thanks for your comments. It’s always best to leave the line in when cutting to get a nice gap free scribe. If you are using a finished product and don’t want to have to remove the pencil line I usually put masking tape on the piece to be scribed and mark my line on that and remove the tape once I’m happy with the fit. James
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 excellent idea!! speaking of masking tape someone was showing a tip using it with a nail gun(16 or 18 gauge) put a bit of masking tape where you are going to put the nail so when you come to fill/cover the nail hole, fill in the nail hole, remove masking tape and hey presto no mess. These days so many things out there which make it over complicated and adds to your expense. :) pss what make etc of hand saw was you using mine is a bit c**p ?
That’s a great tip! Thanks, I’ll remember that.
Content of your videos is excellent, I need some help understanding wall unit hanging, I'm doing my 1st kitchen fit (in my own home) and was wondering about the wall rail you used to hang the wall units in the small kitchenette, my kitchen is from DIY kitchens and they come with the small brackets (individual) can I use the rail instead to simplify the job?
Hi, yes, you should be able to use the continuous rail as show in the video, just check that the profile is similar to that of which was supplied by your kitchen cabinet supplier. You can purchase these from many places online. They are better to use as they offer more fixing areas. Please let me know if you have any questions. James
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 Thanks James appreciate the help mate
Hello, how would you scribe a wall unit end panel on a uneven wall so that the end panel is flush with unit door? Thanks in advance.
Just clamp the end panel level on the unit that it’ll fit to and then measure the overhang on the front. Deduct the door thickness plus a little for a gap between the door (normally about 2mm plus door thickness) and unit then cut a block to that size. Next run a line on the panel with the block against the wall and that’s your cut. It might be best to put masking tape on the panel and mark with a pencil onto that.
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 do I have to line up the back end of the panel with the back end of the unit?
@@Hussain-ch3pr there is no need to line up with the back. As long as you are upright (the same measurements at the top and bottom from the unit to the panel front) with the front as the wall will be uneven. The idea is that you remove whatever is overhanging at the front from the back using a scribe block cut to the correct size which you can run along the wall.
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 regarding the cut block, is the size of block equal to the size of the overhang (that needs to be removed from the panel)?
Have I understood this correctly, sorry for so many questions 😅
@@Hussain-ch3pr yes, that’s correct. The size of the overhang with the door attached if you’d like the panel to cover the door.
This is very confusing, when scribing the large tall end panel, how is it placed against the side of the wardrobe? It can't be flush and why 22mm in front? Do you have to take a long cut off the back of the panel first before placing and scribing? Great video but just can't work out the position of that big panel!
Hi, the thickness of the face frame is 22mm thick so by putting the panel flush with the front of it and taking 22mm from the back it will sit nicely behind the face frame. If the panel was say 10mm forward of the face frame and you wanted it to sit behind it you would have a scribe block of 22 + 10 = 32mm.
Hope this explains
James
hi again :), what hand plain did you use ? (spec) thanks in advance once more
Hi Christopher, it’s a Stanley no.4. A block plane is good for more seriously out of straight walls.
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 thank you. I was considering buying a festool plainer for the same use, but after spending money on other tools this may be a just effective way to do the same but save on money I have not got :) thanks again and have a good Sunday
you need to mark the piece you are going to save...so we can see exactly which piece is cut off and which is saved and which to cut an angle on. thanks.
Anyone know how to scribe into floor, ceiling and wall with one piece? Well just wall and ceiling because a carpet will hide the floor edge, but the panel must go from floor to ceiling?
Also, fantastic saw skills!
Hi, you need to scribe the ceiling first which can normally be done by holding a level on it and noting the difference. Then once you are able to stand the panel up and perfectly level you can scribe to the wall. James
..... thanks for your praise to the sawing skills by the way. No matter how many tools I have on site I still look to the handsaw for scribes. Please let me know if I can advise further on anything. James
Where did you get the handsaw?
Just from Screwfix, but any descent tool shop sell them. I think that Irwin saws are pretty good.
You need to use a jigsaw :)
You need to use a handsaw 😀
.......and subscribe please 🙂
@@mastergraftersworkshop3344 and planner. Leave handsaw at museum 😉
😂😂😂
They have this thing called Electric plane