**WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of the forge and those who enjoy the ambiance. saya-nomi (scabbard chisel) forged from reclaimed carbon steel harrow tooth, magnolia handle. more on carving saya (scabbards): islandblacksmith.ca/process/carving-saya-scabbard/ Saya-nomi (鞘鑿) are a type of Japanese chisel with several unique features designed for carving the inside of a wooden scabbard. Hand forged from a reclaimed harrow tooth, the elongated neck is slightly curved for clearance and the bottom and side corners are slightly rounded to facilitate cutting inside a concave surface without leaving corner marks. A scrap of magnolia makes a clean, simple handle for use as a push chisel. knife making process: islandblacksmith.ca/process/ workshop tour: islandblacksmith.ca/forge/
Don't know why it took me so long to notice the Wakizashi Kata on the far right on the wall, THE SIZE OF THAT THING! Oh that would be a fun blade to forge!
it has an impressive silhouette indeed...make a kata first! Hasebe Kuninobu, Yamashiro, 1300's Nagasa: 1 Shaku 3 Sun 4 Bu (40.7cm) Sori: 2 Bu (0.76cm) Moto-haba: 1 Sun 2 Bu 7 Rin (3.85cm) Moto-kasane: 2 Bu 4 Rin (0.73cm) Nakago: 3 Sun 3 Bu (9.7cm) Hira-zukuri, Mitsu-mune markussesko.files.wordpress.com/2017/09/hasebekuninobu3.jpg www.sho-shin.com/hasebe.htm markussesko.com/2017/09/07/kantei-4-yamashiro-32-hasebe-%E9%95%B7%E8%B0%B7%E9%83%A8-school-3/
Thanks for this quality content I'm wondering myself if I should switch to a japanese style forge My concern is about the charcoal (charcoal only!) consumption and the neutral zone... Isn't the Steel realy near the tuyère ? Is this shape good for small blades, or is it burning more fuel than necessery ? If someone has advices ...
the forge should be the proper size for the type of work, this one is large for swordsmithing but i have extra bricks inside to narrow it down for knifemaking...one brick width or less (~10cm/4") is fine for most work, the depth of the fire is what keeps your work out of the air blast, charcoal takes less air than mineral coal so it is less of an issue...you can stack some bricks and do some testing to see what works best for you...
@@islandblacksmith Thank you for your answer. I'm going to take a look at your videos about the forge again. If I understand well, the bed of charcoal between the tuyere and the blade, allowing it to heat, is sufficiant to avoid decarb ?
you normally have enough fuel depth that the workpiece is not right next to the higuchi/tuyere (this is why narrow helps save charcoal)...and using "just enough" air keeps the rest of the fire neutral or even reducing (see one of my habaki videos for silver soldering in the forge)...
@@islandblacksmith Ok thanks ! So everytime you pull your workpiece back in the forge, charcoal as to be added if needed I imagine. Just watch the video, it's clear about the reducing place in the fire. I have the impression that I'm at the fire too much time in order to add fuel, organise it, etc. Is it because I'm new or it's like this ?
Hello ! Looking forward to new videos Why did you abandon the only and such unique channel? Something happened ? Or are you tired of it? Thanks you ! Sergei
have you found these playlists yet? plenty to study: th-cam.com/play/PLBJ5AOs7cMwDCK5FCUwz3dFOYdroKPbT0.html th-cam.com/play/PLBJ5AOs7cMwBG2b9zpdv9RYK9dG1PrCfR.html
With all due respect; Ask yourself why you decided to not show the thumbs up or down. Better yet your audience should ask themselves. Ask yourself; Is this video for me or for my audience? Ask yourself would I be willing to sit and watch someone else's video that is mostly " All SHOW & NO GO?" Ask yourself if you offer your audience anything worth enduring all those ads? The costume, the atmosphere etc. may be gratifying for yourself but it may fall flat for a "sub." It took a very long time before seeing the steel worked on. That's like a book with on thesis? I get you love what you do and the building and atmosphere is nice, but one can only hold so much water in the palm of their hands.
I think the reason for the fact that it takes some time to get to the "moving the steel"part is that forging, especially japansese style, is much more then just simply getting steel hot and hitting it with a hammer. Every step shown is part of the end result, therefor its worth telling the story from page 1 to the last page! Having watched the entire video now: On the other hand, for same reason i explained, i dont understand why we dont get to see the making of the handle as its part of the endresult!
short answer is i am not a youtuber, i am a blacksmith...if i have managed to capture any useful footage i have the option of putting up what i have or putting up nothing, i don't cater to an audience but there are many folks who watch for study purposes and others who just enjoy the atmosphere of the workshop...gotta do the best i can with what i have! if you are looking for more detailed process footage i have plenty of videos that will help you with that, and more detailed techniques on the website...
similar answer: i am not a youtuber, i am a blacksmith...if i have managed to capture any useful footage on top of getting work done i have the option of putting up what i have or putting up nothing, i could have stopped the video at the end of the forging but i had a photo and think having a look at the finished piece is good when possible...i have several other project videos that document the steps better but this one gives a good look at the forge and the preparation/atmosphere...
![You Can Forge a Knife Correctly [Here's How] !](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NJeGALX8UNQ/mqdefault.jpg)
**WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of the forge and those who enjoy the ambiance.
saya-nomi (scabbard chisel) forged from reclaimed carbon steel harrow tooth, magnolia handle. more on carving saya (scabbards): islandblacksmith.ca/process/carving-saya-scabbard/
Saya-nomi (鞘鑿) are a type of Japanese chisel with several unique features designed for carving the inside of a wooden scabbard. Hand forged from a reclaimed harrow tooth, the elongated neck is slightly curved for clearance and the bottom and side corners are slightly rounded to facilitate cutting inside a concave surface without leaving corner marks. A scrap of magnolia makes a clean, simple handle for use as a push chisel.
knife making process:
islandblacksmith.ca/process/
workshop tour:
islandblacksmith.ca/forge/
your channel is lovely, thank you very much for uploading. just read on your blog you needed to tear apart your workshop, did you give up smithing?
no, i just had to unexpectedly get off the property i was working at...still working on a new location...thanks!
See something being fully handcrafted is so satisfying
I’ve been watching your videos for a wile now and I finally to the jump to try and make my own tanto style knife thank you for your inspiration
...and there is plenty of info on the website which may be helpful, this tag archive is a good place to start: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/tanto-geometry/
I going an unusually hard piece of rebar so I might try to make one aswell
I’ve been needing this. Thanks!
Very nice self made tool. Great skills and a big thumbs up from the UK.
That llama looked happy to be on camera but nice job Dave love ur vids
alpaca! ^_____^
@@islandblacksmith alpaca sorry
it is a very common confusion, i just want to make sure alpacas get their shout out too ^____^
Love the saya nomi out of curiosity don't they have a hallow at the flat of the chisel
not saya-nomi as they are often slightly rounded (convex) on the ura...
Great video and work, but I have a question why you put water on the bottom of the forge ? Thanks !
there is a layer of fine charcoal there to insulate the forge, wetting it down keeps it from burning up too quickly...
@@islandblacksmith thanks!!!
Thank you so much for sharing!
Don't know why it took me so long to notice the Wakizashi Kata on the far right on the wall, THE SIZE OF THAT THING! Oh that would be a fun blade to forge!
it has an impressive silhouette indeed...make a kata first!
Hasebe Kuninobu, Yamashiro, 1300's
Nagasa: 1 Shaku 3 Sun 4 Bu (40.7cm)
Sori: 2 Bu (0.76cm)
Moto-haba: 1 Sun 2 Bu 7 Rin (3.85cm)
Moto-kasane: 2 Bu 4 Rin (0.73cm)
Nakago: 3 Sun 3 Bu (9.7cm)
Hira-zukuri, Mitsu-mune
markussesko.files.wordpress.com/2017/09/hasebekuninobu3.jpg
www.sho-shin.com/hasebe.htm
markussesko.com/2017/09/07/kantei-4-yamashiro-32-hasebe-%E9%95%B7%E8%B0%B7%E9%83%A8-school-3/
Hello !
Please tell me how thick a shirasaya tanto with a blade of 30 cm
Thank !
Should I make a smaller saya nomi for a tanto or is the size more of a matter of ergonomics?
smaller is nice for tanto...you can easily make do with one 3/8" or you could make a pair, one slightly smaller and one slightly larger than that...
great video... i wanted to ask what are you brushing on before the quench
Thanks for this quality content
I'm wondering myself if I should switch to a japanese style forge
My concern is about the charcoal (charcoal only!) consumption and the neutral zone... Isn't the Steel realy near the tuyère ?
Is this shape good for small blades, or is it burning more fuel than necessery ?
If someone has advices ...
the forge should be the proper size for the type of work, this one is large for swordsmithing but i have extra bricks inside to narrow it down for knifemaking...one brick width or less (~10cm/4") is fine for most work, the depth of the fire is what keeps your work out of the air blast, charcoal takes less air than mineral coal so it is less of an issue...you can stack some bricks and do some testing to see what works best for you...
@@islandblacksmith Thank you for your answer.
I'm going to take a look at your videos about the forge again.
If I understand well, the bed of charcoal between the tuyere and the blade, allowing it to heat, is sufficiant to avoid decarb ?
you normally have enough fuel depth that the workpiece is not right next to the higuchi/tuyere (this is why narrow helps save charcoal)...and using "just enough" air keeps the rest of the fire neutral or even reducing (see one of my habaki videos for silver soldering in the forge)...
@@islandblacksmith Ok thanks !
So everytime you pull your workpiece back in the forge, charcoal as to be added if needed I imagine.
Just watch the video, it's clear about the reducing place in the fire.
I have the impression that I'm at the fire too much time in order to add fuel, organise it, etc. Is it because I'm new or it's like this ?
it just becomes habit to place the piece in, rake the charcoal back over (and add new if necessary) each time...
What type of coal are you using for forging
Inspiration 😊
Hello ! Looking forward to new videos
Why did you abandon the only and such unique channel?
Something happened ? Or are you tired of it?
Thanks you !
Sergei
6 months gap is not unusual between videos for me, i have to pay the rent by making knives in the real world too ^____^
It’s been 5 months where are you??? Or did corona get in the way of this
long story...but mostly working hard towards getting caught up...stay tuned!
Thank you! Very good video!
this is the stuff I can get into, tantos and katanas are nice but...cant use em, soo...
I really like japanese blacksmithing that isnt about those. :D
have you found these playlists yet? plenty to study:
th-cam.com/play/PLBJ5AOs7cMwDCK5FCUwz3dFOYdroKPbT0.html
th-cam.com/play/PLBJ5AOs7cMwBG2b9zpdv9RYK9dG1PrCfR.html
Holy Cow, oh, I mean Holy Lama!
alpaca...and not so holy, they were fighting just a few minutes before... ^_____^
😂😂
so good
maruwa ni kenkatabami…
With all due respect; Ask yourself why you decided to not show the thumbs up or down. Better yet your audience should ask themselves. Ask yourself; Is this video for me or for my audience? Ask yourself would I be willing to sit and watch someone else's video that is mostly " All SHOW & NO GO?" Ask yourself if you offer your audience anything worth enduring all those ads? The costume, the atmosphere etc. may be gratifying for yourself but it may fall flat for a "sub." It took a very long time before seeing the steel worked on. That's like a book with on thesis? I get you love what you do and the building and atmosphere is nice, but one can only hold so much water in the palm of their hands.
I think the reason for the fact that it takes some time to get to the "moving the steel"part is that forging, especially japansese style, is much more then just simply getting steel hot and hitting it with a hammer. Every step shown is part of the end result, therefor its worth telling the story from page 1 to the last page!
Having watched the entire video now: On the other hand, for same reason i explained, i dont understand why we dont get to see the making of the handle as its part of the endresult!
short answer is i am not a youtuber, i am a blacksmith...if i have managed to capture any useful footage i have the option of putting up what i have or putting up nothing, i don't cater to an audience but there are many folks who watch for study purposes and others who just enjoy the atmosphere of the workshop...gotta do the best i can with what i have! if you are looking for more detailed process footage i have plenty of videos that will help you with that, and more detailed techniques on the website...
similar answer: i am not a youtuber, i am a blacksmith...if i have managed to capture any useful footage on top of getting work done i have the option of putting up what i have or putting up nothing, i could have stopped the video at the end of the forging but i had a photo and think having a look at the finished piece is good when possible...i have several other project videos that document the steps better but this one gives a good look at the forge and the preparation/atmosphere...
@@bronchiosaurus2766 Good answer.