You did awesome job, I am impressed to see that there is still mechanics out there that don’t rush the job, you took you time and ensure everything was oiled, lubed and greased, you can work on my cars any day. some of the inexperienced mechanics can learn a thing or two from you. Keep it up. Great job.
thank you! your video helped me a lot. tools: 7mm hex bit, t30 torx bit. screw driver for prying, anti seize grease, wire brush, 17mm socket for the wheel removal and 18mm for the bracket removal.
This is crazy I did the exact same job last week on a GLK but wasn't as easy the vehicle had over 200 000 km's on it and the brake disk had never been remove before and as you know we have a lot of salt here on the east coast so there was a big rust ridge on the inside of the disk and the star adjuster was seized so I had to use the torch to cut the adjuster and then remove the disk only one side I had to do this the other side was rusted too but I manage to remove it buy hitting it with a hammer I personally like the hand brake on the caliber and preferably electric you don't have to deal with frozen cables or stuck levers on callipers but it's way more expensive to repair if any thing goes wrong.
+V10PDTDI Yeah... for the most part everything comes apart nicely here on the west coast. Mitchell labour guide should have a special tab to cover rust belt areas. A) suggested labour B) warranty labour C) rust belt labour
10000% for rust belt labor. Customers dont understand sometimes. Something as simple as valve cover bolts on a v8 audi...7 minutes to take apart normally...all rusted over and seized...start cleaning, welding nuts on, etc etc...time, time time.. PS excellent channel, subbed
Excellent work. Pretty obvious your top notch mechanic. I picked up a lot of tips that will help me out as I'm about to do my first break job on a glk. Big favor to ask. Would you possibly rough estimate the prices for a break job, with/without new rotors, turning rotors, etc. Also what break pads do you like. Just a ball park figure on the price. I'd like to know roughly what the prices should be. Much appreciated. Your videos help me a lot and save me money. I've passed on about your videos to friends Thanks!
Sorry... I don't deal with pricing at my work location. Go to www.ecstuning.com/ and look up the parts for your vehicle. They carry OEM & aftermarket parts. Thank you for watching!
Do you ever feel like you could do these in your sleep? I've done my Eurovan and other brakes, and watched so many videos that I feel like I could do these sleeping.
Just like oil changes... after the car leaves the shop, "did I tighten that nut / bolt?". Things do get to the point where they are second nature.... which can be good & bad.
The long 7mm has a ball tip which allows me to work at an angle.... I believe that my ratchet head was hitting the lower control arm with the short 7mm allen. A shorter 7mm allen than the one I used would probably work ok on the lower bolt.
There are a number of different compounds that can be found at auto parts stores (ask the guys behind the counter). I prefer silicone grease / compound for the slider pins (whatever you use has to be rubber friendly). For the pad sliding / contact surface, I use a mixture of anti-seize (on the bottle it says that it is good for brake part applications) and synthetic engine oil. The mix with the oil tends to stay "liquid" for longer... anti-seize alone, tends to dry up over time.
Yep, i'm using Eze-Slide Brake Lubricant from kleen-flo and I guess it's the same stuff,but it's almost gone so i want to try this f rom wurth. I've tried to find this wurth silicone grease here in Poland or even Europe ! but with no results ?! , will need to call wurth on monday to check with them. Regards,
You did awesome job, I am impressed to see that there is still mechanics out there that don’t rush the job, you took you time and ensure everything was oiled, lubed and greased, you can work on my cars any day. some of the inexperienced mechanics can learn a thing or two from you. Keep it up. Great job.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
thank you! your video helped me a lot. tools: 7mm hex bit, t30 torx bit. screw driver for prying, anti seize grease, wire brush, 17mm socket for the wheel removal and 18mm for the bracket removal.
Thank you , that's nice to hear! Thank you for watching!
Awesome video. Thank you for saving me $600 at my local Mercedes shop!!!! Highly recommend this video to all diy guys!!!
Kind of you to say! Thank you for watching!
After you do a 1000 brake jobs you've gotten real efficient. I've done maybe a dozen in my life and it still takes me half a day. :)
+wyattoneable Don't forget that I edit a lot and I don't always show the assembling.
Ok I'm back. Good stuff, seems brake jobs are the mainstay of the industry.
Safety first!
You do excellent work with attention to details.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
This is crazy I did the exact same job last week on a GLK but wasn't as easy the vehicle had over 200 000 km's on it and the brake disk had never been remove before and as you know we have a lot of salt here on the east coast so there was a big rust ridge on the inside of the disk and the star adjuster was seized so I had to use the torch to cut the adjuster and then remove the disk only one side I had to do this the other side was rusted too but I manage to remove it buy hitting it with a hammer I personally like the hand brake on the caliber and preferably electric you don't have to deal with frozen cables or stuck levers on callipers but it's way more expensive to repair if any thing goes wrong.
+V10PDTDI Yeah... for the most part everything comes apart nicely here on the west coast. Mitchell labour guide should have a special tab to cover rust belt areas.
A) suggested labour
B) warranty labour
C) rust belt labour
10000% for rust belt labor. Customers dont understand sometimes. Something as simple as valve cover bolts on a v8 audi...7 minutes to take apart normally...all rusted over and seized...start cleaning, welding nuts on, etc etc...time, time time..
PS excellent channel, subbed
Nice looking Scirocco in the next bay!
I like the first generation more.
I wonder if the owner appreciates the complexity of that multi-link rear suspension.
Hehe.. probably not.
That was some fast wrenching on that caliber bracket 😊 Good vid. !
Wouldn't want anyone to fall asleep!
+Thomas EXOVCDS Who me 😴
***** Anyone.
+Thomas EXOVCDS -:)
Excellent work. Pretty obvious your top notch mechanic. I picked up a lot of tips that will help me out as I'm about to do my first break job on a glk. Big favor to ask. Would you possibly rough estimate the prices for a break job, with/without new rotors, turning rotors, etc. Also what break pads do you like. Just a ball park figure on the price. I'd like to know roughly what the prices should be. Much appreciated. Your videos help me a lot and save me money. I've passed on about your videos to friends
Thanks!
Sorry... I don't deal with pricing at my work location. Go to www.ecstuning.com/ and look up the parts for your vehicle. They carry OEM & aftermarket parts. Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS I perfectly understand. Thanks for the reply.
I wish you were my mechanic.
Thank you for watching!
I read the ebrake needed the computer to release? your videos are always helpful
Not this one.
Do you ever feel like you could do these in your sleep? I've done my Eurovan and other brakes, and watched so many videos that I feel like I could do these sleeping.
Just like oil changes... after the car leaves the shop, "did I tighten that nut / bolt?". Things do get to the point where they are second nature.... which can be good & bad.
Good job
To just replace the pads and not the disk would make it a easier job, but what is the downside?
Daniel Leung noise most likely and the discs will be undersize by the time the pads are 50 to 70% worn.
Nice work... do you know where I can find a service manual?
www.repairsurge.com/
$19.95/year
I have never used it... I only did a quick Google search and found it. $20 for 1 year access is not bad at all.
Hi, is there a specific reason why you used the longer Hex socket for the bottom screw? Not enough clearance?
The long 7mm has a ball tip which allows me to work at an angle.... I believe that my ratchet head was hitting the lower control arm with the short 7mm allen. A shorter 7mm allen than the one I used would probably work ok on the lower bolt.
Are you a flat rate technician?
No.
You like MB?
Very nice... but too expensive to own & repair.
What do you use to lubricate calliper pins ?
There are a number of different compounds that can be found at auto parts stores (ask the guys behind the counter). I prefer silicone grease / compound for the slider pins (whatever you use has to be rubber friendly). For the pad sliding / contact surface, I use a mixture of anti-seize (on the bottle it says that it is good for brake part applications) and synthetic engine oil. The mix with the oil tends to stay "liquid" for longer... anti-seize alone, tends to dry up over time.
Yep, i'm using Eze-Slide Brake Lubricant from kleen-flo and I guess it's the same stuff,but it's almost gone so i want to try this f rom wurth. I've tried to find this wurth silicone grease here in Poland or even Europe ! but with no results ?! , will need to call wurth on monday to check with them.
Regards,