How to Rebuild 9 1/4" Rear End 1970-2009
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- A Step by Step Guide for the 9 1/4" Rear End
Limited Slip Differential.
Please Call Your Local Dodge Dealership with your VIN code to Confirm if your Gear is a 9 1/4".
The Following list of Vehicles I have NOT had a chance to Confirm.
Regardless, this guide covers the General Guidelines for any Rear End (except for how to Select/Install Side Carrier Shims, and Alternate Axle Wheel Bearing Styles)
Also excepting: How to Change the Clutch Pack (the Stock Carrier is Not really sturdy enough, and I Recommend a Yukon Gear Carrier... But many other Heavy Duty Carrier Options are available)
General Compatibility List:
B100 Dodge Van 1/2 Ton: 1970 - 1980 (Rear)
B150 Dodge Van 1/2 Ton: 1981 - 1994 (Rear)
B1500 Dodge Van 1/2 Ton: 1995 - 1998 (Rear)
B200 Dodge Van 3/4 Ton: 1970 - 1981 (Rear)
B250 Dodge Van 3/4 Ton: 1981 - 1994 (Rear)
B2500 Dodge Van 3/4 Ton: 1995 - 1998 (Rear)
B300 Dodge Van 1 Ton: 1970 - 1980 (Rear)
B350 Dodge Van 1 Ton: 1981 - 1994 (Rear)
B3500 Dodge Van 1 Ton: 1995 - 1998 (Rear)
CHALLENGER: 1973 - 1974 (Rear)
CHARGER: 68 - 79 (Rear)
CORDOBA: 75-81 (Rear)
D100 2wd 1/2 Ton: 1970 - 1979 (Rear)
D150 2wd 1/2 Ton: 1976 - 1993 (Rear)
D200 2wd 3/4 Ton: 1967 - 1980 (Rear)
D250 2wd 3/4 Ton: 1974 - 1993 (Rear)
D300 2wd 1 Ton: 1974 - 1980 (Rear)
D350 2wd 1 Ton: 1981 - 1989 (Rear)
DAKOTA W/V8 98 - ON
DAKOTA: 1997 - 2000 (Rear)
DAKOTA: 2001 - 2008 (Rear)
DIPLOMAT: 1977 - 1989 (Rear)
DURANGO: 1998 - 2008
FIFTH AVENUE: 1980 - 1981 (Rear)
FURY: 1971 - 1981 (Rear)
GTX: 1967 - 1971 (Rear)
IMPERIAL: 1974 - 1981 (Rear)
MAGNUM: 1978 - 1983 (Rear)
MONACO: 1966 - 1985 (Rear)
NEWPORT: 1973 - 1981
NEW YORKER: 1970 - 1982
POLARA: 1970 - 1974
RAM 1500 1/2 Ton: 1994 - 2000 (Rear)
RAM 1500 1/2 Ton: 2001 - 2009 (Rear)
RAM 2500 3/4 Ton: 1994 - 2000 (Rear)
RAM VAN 1500 1/2 Ton: 1974 - 2003 (Rear)
RAM VAN 2500 3/4 Ton: 1974 - 2003 (Rear)
RAM VAN 3500 1 Ton: 1978 - 1993 (Rear)
RAMCHARGER: 1974 - 1993 (Rear)
ROAD RUNNER: 1973 - 1980 (Rear)
TRAILDUSTER: 1974 - ON
TRUCK 1/2 TON: 1974 - ON
TRUCK 3/4 TON: 1974 - ON
TRUCK 1 TON: 1974 - 2000
W100/W150/W200/W250: 1974 - ON
W150 1/2 Ton 4x4: 1977 - 1993
W200 3/4 Ton 4x4: 1969 - 1993
W250 3/4 Ton 4x4: 1981 - 1993
W300 1 Ton 4x4: 1974 - 1980
W350 1 Ton 4x4: 1981 - 1989
SPECIFICATIONS:
• Ring Gear DIAMETER 9.25"
• PINION DIAMETER 1.876" 29 SPLINES
• CASE: 2.71 & NUMERICALLY HIGHER
• Ring Gear Bolts: • 12 x 7/16"X18 LH THREADED BOLTS
• Cover Bolts: 12
• AXLE Spline Count: 31
Rear Suspension: Solid
Fix Howling, Binding, Noises etc. If the Ring gear and Pinion Gear Teeth are in good shape, you can Re-Use them. Check for Uneven Teeth Thickness (All Along Tooth on Both Ring and Pinion. Also check for Pitting or Chipping. When in doubt, take them to an Expert for Inspection)
If you ARE NOT replacing with a New or Rebuilt Carrier, Your Clutch Pack will need to be Dis-Assembled and Inspected, as well as the Half Moon Cut-Aways in the Carrier that Hold the Clutch Pack Pressure Plate Tabs (Inspect for NO Grooving in Cut-Aways)
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This has to be the best well explained video on diffs i ever seen.
Thank you very much ;)
@@wolfiestechbites3773 ßßs
LOVE IT, " if it's not perfect - you shouldn't be a mechanic" man if only more people thought that way about their profession.. Thanks a million for your time and efforts.. subscribed!
Thanks John. Sorry for the late reply. but I do appreciate your recognition of our industries major flaw.... laziness!
Excellent demo and verbal explanation on how parts work and safely do the work. Keep up the great work!
Well done, It's always nice to see someone who does a good job with the tools at hand and not giving you a bunch of tool numbers, Chrysler is so bad about making you buy one-off tools, thanks for some good ideas.
Thank You. I appreciate the feedback. Never surrender to the "need" to buy special tools, when you can just make something instead
Big Difference between using the Right tools or using totally wrong stuff like adjustable wrench instead of a tap driver or 1/4" wrench and just getting lucky.
Amazing video/how to! I have been watching this on multiple occasions in preparation for some upcoming rear end work and I learn something new each time!
You sir are a life saver with that shortcut for the side adjusters. Thank you!
you can make a tool from 3 foot 1/2" gal plumbing pipe and 1 " nut for adjusting the caps to adjust the play.
Very skilled and thorough, mobile technician and very articulately explained. I learned a lot. Thanks.
Negative.
U ignorant, if you think this job was done correctly.
@@themanthemyththelegend1392 Yeah this was a horrible job, lots of wrong info! Waste of money on a rebuild kit to be installed like that.
I've been looking for this video for years. Thanks for going through it in detail, I'm sure I'll use it one day.
Excellent video. Was a great help to me when I rebuilt the 9.25 rear in my Dakota.
Thank you so much for the detailed video! I've done a few rear ends but not for other people. I wanted to make sure I got this right the first time!
Thank you!
I watched the whole thing. I did learn a lot of things I didn't know. I'm changing the ratio completely on my ring & pinion. I think there would be a lot of guessing on shims. Unless the same technique would work on a different gear ratio. Too much for me to handle. Mostly I learned that I'd rather pay an guy who does nothing but rear ends and have it done perfect. I thought the dye looked perfect on the first look. Having to change the shims after all that would have driven me over the edge. Feel like $400 in labor isn't so bad now. Great video...I liked & subbed.
It is a Big decision to attempt it yourself. At the very least, you now have a good general idea about how it can be done. In the case where you end up paying someone else to do it for you, the best bet is to ask around. Check online reviews. And think about the level of specialized knowledge a technician must have to do this job. An actual Rear-end shop is ideal. They have senior techs to guide the junior techs thru the process. Not that many shops even attempt this type of work anymore
I called in a pro builder. He did a nice quiet 3.90 posi. It's almost broke in now. I never even knew that I have to break them in. At least I can handle draining & replacing the oil. Saved myself a few bones anyway. Thanks again.
Awesome. I'm glad you learned some new things and most importantly, were able to judge the limit you were willing to go with fixing it yourself. I'm always glad to share knowledge. Hope you enjoy many years of trouble-free service with it now :)
It is good to see someone say, “Do it correctly”. Also if you want to save a bit of time. Get a propane cook stove, “the single one that screws on top of the tank”, and an old cast iron skillet. Put the bearings you need to heat in and cover.
thanks for the idea Bob! And your comment is appreciated
Great video. I really appreciate the detail and tips you included with every step.
Thank you very much.
got an 01 dak rt, rear end is fried. thanks for the video dude. Will make life a bit easier.
👍
Thanks for this video. It's helping me a lot!
You're very welcome!
On my way to the garage to attempt this same thing. Dealer wants $3,300.00 for a complete rebuild for a loose pinion nut. Didn't add up, so we will see whats going on. No noise or anything, just noticed my pinion seal was leaking and after pulling the driveshaft, noticed my pinion nut was just about ready to fall off... Thanks for the in depth video!
brian hannah Least you got lucky and caught it before it came off. A month ago mine came off after a two minute noise warning and the rear axle locked up and would only go backwards. Lucky for me the pinion and ring was undamaged. I am rebuilding the whole rear end myself with the help of a service manual as it is way cheaper. I got a master bearing kit, axle bearings, axle seals, gear oil, parking brake rebuild kit with dust shield and two U-joints. I spent about $255 on parts and about $200 on tools that I needed anyway. Junk yard wanted $900-1500 for a used one that might do the same thing. One thing though, get a new nut and use red thread locker on it. Also check for broken clutch pack clips! Good luck.
I have a dodge 1998 rv weights 8500lb according to the dealer by its vin # it's a 9,25 diff, where i live mechanics asking from $1500 to $3300 to fix it and don't even know how bad it is, i saw ion ebay the bearing set with pinon the whole thing for about $500 bucks, I don't know if I should order one of this or if is made for a smaller van or less weight one.
I think is way to much $$ used it's more than a used tranny.
I need some help to figure it out.
Ron Gatson damn this same thing happened to me 3:30 am this morning headed to work . I was a tad late lol. thought the pinion nut just came loose so got the wife to come tow me home ( was only 2 miles from house ) but it wouldn't roll forward the darn wrecker had to use the metal sliders to get it loaded up . looks like I have a nice job ahead of me this weekend. truck isn't worth much money but it was my dads so im kind of attached to it as he gave it too me b4 he died
old fashion way heat up in oil, we in holland have these repair books , long time ago I had a bedford van and book says for the preload , wind a rope few times around and attach to a spring balance, probably you already know by now.good video
Good video , but as you were explaining safety of locking in your jack stand properly I saw that your jack stands are in grass area I'd worry about jack stands sinking into ground ... safety 1st st
That's true John. Thankfully the ground was bone dry at the time. Normally I use plywood in those situations.
You need the special tool to adjust the side bearings. They need to be torqued to 75 ft lbs for proper preload. The dealership I worked at had one, so I bought one from eBay for about $50 that someone made. Worked great not having to move the tool from side to side during the process. However I didn’t enjoy rebuilding these for 3.7 hours under the pinion nut recall. That’s why techs struggle to make money in dealerships
Yep. Dealership jobs are like slavery. And the system tempts techs, with low seniority, to make up bs work to make ends meet. And the time the writers allow is a stretch, to get it done without rushing and missing something.
The system has to change. Perhaps have the most senior tech on fixed salary and out there daily, working with the younger techs, assisting where needed.
The way you carefully explain how to crush the colapsable spacer is the right way to do , pipe wrench with 3/4" rachet and a pipe tube for increase force .Never use any impact tool , race of bearing will be hurt , if you use impact the measurement of the preload will be not consistant the needle of the inches pound torque wrench will give you an oscillating reading , resulting of the impact use. Lead to short life of pignion brg...
Thanks Top. Sometimes easier is not better lol.
@@wolfiestechbites3773 I rebuilt a lot of those 9 1/4 has a mopar tech over 35 years , that procédure you explain is the most accurate way to do found in the internet... good job !
great info thanks. Also make sure if you use a click style torque wrench that it is capable of clicking in reverse. Most do not work for left hand thread bolts. I might buy one of the beam style ones such as yours. I would take a large rolled up peice of cardboard to lay out under that vehicle. Insulates, blocks rocks, bugs and keeps you cleaner.
Excellent video and a near impossible job for most roadside. The only issue I noticed is you mixed up the bearing caps upon reassembly.
Thank you for the tutorial as I need to do this to my 2003 Durango. Great video !!!
I wanted to do the heat trick but I'm bringing it to shop with a press. $20 or so bucks is worth it.
Excellent vid and I respect what you said about doing the job perfectly.
Excellent video. I will have to sub to your channel. What manual do you have to get specs?
good video man!! I want to put a taller gear and limited slip carrier in my truck. I think I'm just going to take it to my family's friends shop that specializes in transmission and differential work.
Bradley Preston Thanks Bradley! Good luck with your truck :)
Thank You! I appreciate your time. Terrific explanation. You saved me a lot of thinking and a few mistakes, I'm sure. Now, it's time to get greasy ;-)
Nice video and explanation wolfies on this problem if it happens because tomorrow I am going to try and change the seals on the axels on my 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 3.9L rear wheel drive and if the bolt breaks i will not panic and try this tanks and keep up this good videos and I will give you a thumbs up
+Ferber b Thanks so much. Hope it helped you when the time came :)
i have 2000 dodge ram 1500 I took the side bearin caps off/out now havin a problems getting them togo back in any suggestions awesome video by the way
You may be putting the caps on upside down. It's important to mark them before they come out. Try getting someone to hold the gear assembly in place while you try flipping the caps to find the right way. They should have a shiny spot where the shims or adjusters were contacting the caps
You sound like the Captain of the Sophisticated Lady on sailing SSL
Lol. Should I start singing the theme song to the "Love Boat" ? Hahaha
great video. I'm getting ready to tear the rear end out of my 2003 ram.I'm clueless what the gear ratio is .there's no identification tags no where its a 1500 4 wheel drive.I'm pretty sure its a 355.when I pull out it feel like my ring gear is missing a few teeth????? guess I'll find out now that I no how to screw the shims back in.thanks alot
easy one. call the Dodge Dealer with your VIN code and they can decode what Ratio you have with it. Assuming your Truck Hasn't been modified
Very helpful video!! Thanks
great educational video
This is by far the best tutorial I have seen as I prepare for my project. Question though, in the beginning, you can see the ABS tone ring to the left of the ring gear. but near the end, it appears it is missing or replaces with a smooth tone ring? Is there a reason for that, or what is the purpose of a smooth tone ring?
Noah Forbes LOL. Yeah, I did a text overlay at that part of the video, to point out that I noticed I forgot about it and took it all apart again to install it, but didn't capture video of it... good eye to catch that! It's all in the details ;)
Nice job. When you test drove it did the ABS light come on? Looks like you forgot to install the tone ring.
actually, I did catch that and included a text overlay during that part of the video. but no, the abs lite did not come on. but it sure would have had I not caught it ;)
That exciter ring was still off at the end of the video. !! That would of been painful
haha. yeah, I did realize before it was too late. all that would have happened, if I missed it, is the ABS lite would have come on
getting ready to swap a 9.25 in my first gen dakota, have to change the yoke since i wanted the disk brakes on a 03 dakota and the disks aren't interchangeable on other 9.25's
Matco tools sells a kit to remove that spider gear pin and does work.Seals,don't ever buy the cheap seals and you will do the job all over again.Buy the good axle seals and you won't do the job all over again.Reuse the crush sleeve,the new one is a real bastard to crush when tightening the pinion nut.
Good tips on the seals. Very true. As far as the crush sleeve goes, I always use new ones with bearing replacement. If the old sleeve is used, it may be too short. But if a 3/4 " impact is used very carefully with new bearings and sleeve, you can blip the yoke nut a little at a time and get the right bearing preload without having to resort to the grief I went thru with the floor jack and the 3/4" Ratchet lol.
My father reuses them,slides them in a punch or a good round piece hammering them out.Last cheap seal that on a job I did was in a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee.Was a rear axle seal and came back with a leak.Put in a good name brand seal a second time,no more leak
Good video. In the notes you mentioned that the side adjusters were more than 75 lbs. ft. of torque. Since they are recessed and hidden by the axle tubes, how did you torque them?
+William Huff I just used a medium flat screwdriver thru the housing hole right next to the gasket surface
good info, thanks for making the video
Some the pin lock is an allen not broken
Very Helpful video!
Valerie Schlabach Thank you for the kind comment :)
GREAT Video thanks for taking the time to make it. I have the 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Is that a Dana 60 axle? Everyone refers to it as a Dana axle and I need to know which ring and pinion and carrier to purchase. YOur video rocks.
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9:15 you talk about instructions. What kind of instructions are you using and where could we purchase these set of instructions?
very well done.
Awesome video.
grande ...
I have 09 2500 dodge. Want to put in a truetrac in the front. I've read i need to use ring/pinion gears for a 03-06. Anyone know why? Awesome video. Sure I'll watch it a few times.
Truetrac
I have a 2005 ram 1500 with an open diff. I have recently been considering swapping it for a LSD. About 6 months ago my truck was Im for recall service on the diff and they changed out all of the seals and what not. So my question is if I am not going to need to change the front seals or barings do I need to remove and then replace the back end? Or do I still have to pull everything?
Great video. thank you! One question, do you take into account the bearing thickness when determining the pinion shim or should that be the same from the old bearing to the new?
When you're using the shortcut on the threaded couplers holding the carrier in are you prying on the holes the tool would lock into? I'm going to be replacing the pinion bearing, how do I know what the preload should be at for a new bearing and crush sleeve?
My Durango has this axle and the pin keeper bolt sheared off letting the pin slide out a little. Now the pin is galled at the end and I can't slide the pin out either way. It will slide about an inch out either way. Got an idea how to get it out?
Great video and very well explained. I just pull my axle's to replace the seals and new u joints. I noticed that my pinion shaft has about a 1/4" free play back and forth is that normal? Thanks in advance for your advice!
1/4” travel Is NOT good. It’s supposed to be very snug. If you watch towards the end of the video, I cover the pinion assembly
@@wolfiestechbites3773 Thanks for the advice.
Why don't they make an adjustable pinion race instead of using shims same way they do the side bearings Seem backwards to have to take it all apart to ad shims if its off dimension.
they show a video bout the preload saw should b bout 12 miccrons thanks for the advice
What changed from 2009 and up? I thought they were the same still
How did you fix the speedometer for it can read your speed sense Yukon carrier do not have the same markings because I have a 03 ram 1500 and I purchased the Yukon carrier and now my speedometer do not work thanks
Thanks great video....
I am preparing to rebuild by 2005 Ram 1500 rear end. I have it tore down with the carrier and the pinion out. Is there much difference between the one you did and the 2005? Any other suggestions would be very helpful. This is my first rear end rebuild. Thanks
? I'm doing complete Yukon swap on a 00 dodge offroad it was on its 3rd diff and now pinion went. So doing everything How do you remove the old races for the pinion and mine has the groves ring on the old one like diff in beginning of video has is that reused or is that removed and does it set off abs ? Also what is the best gear oil for Brake in and what do you run after the 5-600 mile were time
becuase i dont have the speacial tools for it i got all the others except the one that is speacial for the iside for playing with the alignment or removol
Just watch the entire video. You can Rent the special puller tools or even borrow them (by leaving a full deposit for value) at some Auto parts stores. Canadian Tire is one. Make some phone calls.
Why does my axle keep breaking pulling out of a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 for a key spawn on the passenger side axle comes right out when I was driving two weeks ago pulled right out what causes that can you tell me
What kind of oil is good for this? duragrip i install one in my ram same as the one in the video this video hellp allot on my instalation
I have what i will call some type of rumbling sound,,,on acceraltion,,and off,,,when i painted the ring i was hitting middle to outside on teeth,,,but NO mark on drive side
then you need to move carrier left and right and retest. did you replace all bearings and shims? More details should help
Can you do a video for the newer dodge axles. My 2014 Ram 1500 needs a LSD and I don't know if the $1500 I was quoted is worth it.
That file is called a Pipping file
Do you notice any notchniness in pinions after you install them?
Im going to have to have my 02 4x4 rams rear end rebuilt. The shop I took it to so we could find out for sure what the problem was, said at first they were gonna use Yukon parts. Before I left the service manager said that his mechanic reminded him that Yukon is louder on the Dodge and suggested using OEM instead. Can you give me your personal opinion or experience with Yukon Vs Chrysler parts for this job? Thanks in advance.
again, sorry for the late reply... I definitely recommend Yukon because it is engineered to exceed original design specs. and that is critical because the original design .... um.... blows lol. pun intended
How do you get 75 lbs torque on the carrier nuts that push on the race, Without the special tool, I don't have the tool, also the carrier you put in has purple springs and I'm has red, mine is the same yr!
The color of the springs doesn't matter. As long as you gave the parts store the right info about your vehicle, you will get the right parts. Can't hurt to count teeth and take measurements as well. As far as Torque, U can get a cheap torque wrench for under $30 (the sweep bar style shown in the video) and if you really had to, you could use a half inch ratchet and torque it as hard as you can. Rather than using a large flex bar (which gives you more leverage, making it possible to break the bolts ). My rule of thumb for ANY bolt is to really feel the torque being applied as final tightening is occurring and observe how much more exponential torque is required to make the bolt tighten ... u observe how it take 10 times the torque to make the bolt tighten even a bit more. The trick is practicing with different sized bolts and really concentrating as u tighten by hand and Feel the threads and how they are resisting the final max torque. This comes with experience and can be an invaluable skill when a torque chart or torque wrench are not available.
Hey man do you really need a dial indicator to measure the backlash? Or can you just look at the pattern where the pinion touches the ring?
Pattern does the job according to the book, but you can use rod type feeler gauges
I have a 1999 dakota, I would like to install an LSD kit like this one but I can't find it here in Brazil.
You’ll have to import it directly from the dealer in the USA. They also have them in Canada
If you need a link, let me know
do u have to heat the ring gear up like you would the bearings
The audio's all screwed up. I skip forward, and the AUDIO restartes from the beginning.
Try deleting your browser cookies and reboot PC and watch video again. or just watch on your phone.
Can you come to Alabama and do one on a 2001 Dodge 4x4
I'm doing this to my 2005 dodge ram 1500, I installed the original shim of the pinion onto the new pinion and I got my back lash with in spec, now once I try to do the back lash the gear itself hits the top of the housing, I made sure that I torqued, cleaned, installed all the races good, any ideas?
Not all good obviously...... First idea take it back apart and start again! This time do it right.
Do you replace gear set, ? it is an oem parts ? It is the same ratio ?
great video. thank you for posting. The two smaller gears inside the carrier, are they supposed to have any play? i've got a whining sound and just opened up the differential. one of the smaller gears inside the carrier has two chipped teeth and there is some play in those gears.
Chipped teeth is Bad. The chunks will have been ground up and ground into all bearing parts and that's where the howling is coming from. likely the gear oil was not changed for a long time and/or leaked out. if you get a kit, they don't usually come with spider gears. but you can likely order those too. Get a Yukon Gear Carrier. your supplier may have a used set of spiders. and don't forget the outer bearings at the wheels. they howl too.
thanks for the reply. I replaced the spider gears hoping that would fix it, but still the same sound. Looks like I'm looking at replacing all the bearings now.
here's what the spider gear looked like: i.imgbox.com/9ygBXnDV.jpg
here's a video of the sound i'm getting. Keep in mind, there is no play at the differential/drive shaft yoke area. feels very solid.
/watch?v=fGtXtRB2fqY
+Nick Pavone oh yeah. that's a lot of metal to grind into ALL the bearings including side axle bearings at the wheels. don't forget to clean the axle tubes VERY thoroughly
I just got done doing a full rebuild on my dodge Dakota rear end after watching this video and I can not understand why after doing the torque and pre load correctly on the pinion according to my manual I now have slack in and out on the pinion shaft after a test drive and I can't seem to get rid of it. If you could give me any advice I would really appreciate it. Awesome video BTW!
+Jerod Black did you use a new pinion nut. Did you have the pinion bearing closest to the pinion gear fully pressed onto the pinion. Did you use a new crush sleeve and achieved the proper pinion bearing preload of inch pounds (somewhere around 15 to 30 inch pounds). Also, did you fully seat the bearing races in the housing? What did you try to get rid of it? Did the truck make noise when you drove it. I would guess it should have since the pinion had no preload on it and was flopping around.
+Zundfolge1432 I used the old pinion nut BC I only had a socket for it. the new one is like a 33 mm. I got the races fully pressed in and I used a new pinion shaft as well as bearings and seals. the smaller bearing I used the yoke with the nut to get it sucked down onto the shaft BC there is no good way to beat it on there while its in the pumpkin. I also installed a new crush sleeve and torqued the nut to the minimum spec of 210ft lbs and up to 220 till I achieved the proper inch pounds rotation. the only reason I new it was all of a sudden loose is BC I got under there to check that everything was okay during my test drive. it was not loose before driving it.
+Zundfolge1432 the bearing closest to the gear was fully pressed on with a press
+Zundfolge1432 when I discovered it was loose I tried to tighten it more but it only seemed like it took a little of the play out when I reached about 250 ft lbs
+Jerod Black something has to be providing more slack/binding up to not give you the proper pinion preload. Test drive loosens it up.
what are the odds of my 2003 being the same and if i only do the bearing if i put it back the same and do the best i can
this Video applies to all up to 2009
Great video, very informative. One question though, how are you getting the required (specified) torque on the side adjusters if you didn't have the tool?
Good point. I used a rule of thumb for torque specs on all nuts and bolts. As you reach perfect torque, the force necessary to apply more torque increases Exponentially. Even though you COULD apply more torque at this point, if you really grunted, Don't. But where bearings are involved, it's even easier. You apply enough Torque to prevent the bearing assembly from free-wheeling upon attempting to give it a spin. Check the Part of the video regarding the two finger pinion shaft test, and that should give you an idea. keep in mind that the carrier has a lot of Centrifugal force, so try using just your middle finger or ring finger and slowly rotate the carrier while feeling how much resistance there is and if it stops immediately, it may be too tight (make sure it's got some oil on bearings) there is absolutely No Play, side to side, on the carrier.
Did I hear you giving jack stand advice while having yours on dirt?🤔
Yes....
Michael oh, ok.
Thought my hearing was starting to go.
Shhhhhhhh!
Thanks for the video! Maybe you can help me with a question I have my crush sleeve I took off looks a lot different than the one that’s in the kit. The one in the kit has a concave pump the one I took off as a convex bump in the middle. Do you think that’ll be a problem? Thank you!
Shouldn’t be a problem. The engineering is the same. Provide a consistent bell-curve to provide “resistance” to crushing so it’s providing constant tension. Perhaps it’s a patent issue with the original design. As long as it was provided in a “sealed” Kit and not loose parts in a box, I see absolutely no problem.
@@wolfiestechbites3773 thanks bud. I’m a huge fan of your main channel. It was a sigh of relief hearing you do this particular differential. You are so thorough and I can only imagine what you say on your other channel doing the same job. I know you’re not gonna respond to this but keep up the good work bro!
I’m rebuilding my deceased brother’s truck kind of sentimental. Make my mind roll because of the date you posted the video.
Hate to bother you again but I got the tires back on and there’s a slight bit of slop sound. You can’t see the tire move but you can hear a little clunk when pushing the top of the tire. I haven’t added fluid yet but while tightening the lugs I noticed the noise. Like I said you can’t really see any movement. I might be paranoid because I’ve already had this thing apart and within a couple months the Oreilly Masterpoo bearings💩 shat out on me and here I am. Don’t buy shit Chinesium bearings.
@@rustyzipperband it’s to be expected that the axle moves a bit in and out. I am assuming that you had tire off the ground when you pushed the top of the tire in a bit. If it wasn’t off ground, let me know. The important thing is that you checked the torque of the side carrier bearing half cap bolts and the cent pin 8mm long pin bolt-retainer. And of course the 8 thou play in the crown and pinion and the contact pattern etc etc etc. If you were meticulous, and you are not missing any bolts. And you didn’t get the carrier bearing caps mixed up left to right or upside down, all should be good.
Make sure there’s some gear oil on the outer axle support roller bearings by the axle seals after you fill it with the proper gear oil and limited slip additive. You can do this by blocking front wheels front and back and jacking up on rear tire really high and sit for 2 min and then alternate and then you can take it for a gentle test ride. You can drive slow tight circles in a parking lot or cul de sac right and left turning to distribute the gear oil thoroughly where it needs to go. Drive about 100 miles max and then let it sit overnight to let bubbles in oil pop. Then next day, get a whistle clean drain pan, super clean the outer housing cover, cover bolts and bottom of housing and do a surgical clean drain of fluid into clean pan and check for metal in oil, magnet for metal and while up on axle stands and blocked, check the pinion to crown clearance. You can use a magnet dial gauge, as I’m assuming that’s how you checked it during assembly for that 8 thou “click to click” gap as you rotate the crown.
If all looks good. Add fresh oil and friction additive and run for 500 miles and recheck and then last check at 1000 miles. That’s more of an interval than the “book” calls for, but it’s important to you, Yes?
After a big project I ALWAYS go over every step in my mind of the final assembly a couple times start to finish and that gives your sub-conscious a chance to poke you back if you forgot a step (usually during phone calls or the like).
Good luck :)
1 more thing, do you have to clean off gear marking compound before adding oil
Yes, I use brake cleaner and a parts cleaning brush. It may react to the clutch material over time.
how do I know if my truck came with shims or not it's a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 automatic 2 wheel drive
Danette Naviaux Your Dodge Ram 1500 is listed in the video description as being covered by this video. Therefore, yours does not use shims. it uses threaded adjusters (covered by this video). Cheers!
my pinion nut is being exceptionally difficult. the yoke appears to be going on crooked or not seating into the pinion seal. What do i do. I have lost several days of work because of the damn pinion nut.
Nice
when you took the diff carrier out there wasn't any springs in it. you reassembled it with springs. maybe I missed it but what is their purpose and are they necessary?
Wilkerson's mower shop I removed the old carrier and installed a Yukon gear aftermarket, stronger pre-loaded carrier (means it comes with all the guts). The springs are designed to hold tension on the internal components. As the 9 1/4" rear limited slip differentials all have clutch packs that help give you a bit more traction when you are in a tough spot (like one wheel on the pavement and the other on ice. Without the clutches, it would spin on the ice and the wheel on the pavement would not turn at all. With the clutches both wheels turn and help get you back on the road.)
So the entire carrier was purchased as an assembly (only thing you add is the side carrier bearings (included in the master bearing kit, bought separately)
Wolfies Tech Bites thanks for the info. I have an 89 w100 with a bad rearend. took the cover off start the engine put it in gear ring and pinion are turning but not the axle shafts. so we found another rearend to replace it with and that's where my spring inquiry comes about. my original has the springs and the replacement had them. when we inspected the replacement the springs were busted and the two plates were also broken. the rearend seems fine but will the diff function without them?
Wilkerson's mower shop oh no. I'm sorry, but you cannot overlook anything when it comes to rear diffs. With broken springs it will cause internal damage very quickly.
Wolfies Tech Bites I want to thank you again for the great vids. we got our rear end back together and it seems fine. my axle splines was striped out. we swapped the carrier and axles but I used the old ring gear. runs out good and no noise. thanks again!
1:04:32 Deez nuts
FistFullofSilence got em!
in future I'll edit the long videos, for those of us who just need the salient details lol
how did you torque the side adjusters? im about to rebuild a Mitsubishi rear (9.25 Chrysler ) and i figured out the shortcut to remove the adjusters but i dont see how to torque without the special tool.
There are 1/2" Diameter holes on the left and right that are covered by the differential cover ... you just use a screwdriver thru those holes to rotate the adjusters. look at around the 10 min mark in my video
+Wolfies Tech Bites Understood that. I used those to get the differential out of the housing. I was wondering how you achieve 75 foot pounds of torque using those holes? Is it possible or should i shell out the 30 dollars for the tool to torque it?
+Ryan Kelly I think about 20 ft lbs on the end of a 8" screwdriver is about enough. considering the leverage of how far the pivot point of the hole in the housing related to the radius measurement of the outer holes of the nut to the center of the nut I'm assuming it's about a 5/1 torque advantage
+Wolfies Tech Bites or perhaps 4/1. and on an 8" long screwdriver 20 ft Lbs at the end would give you an actual torque of about 15 ft lbs. you can feel the nut tightening in an exponential way as it nears it's peak, designed max torque. you could torque it to those general guidelines and recheck at 500 km when you should be changing the gear oil and additive anyways. if it's maintaining it's torque, and there is no evidence of excess metal filings in the oil or on the magnet and the contact wear pattern on the gear teeth is showing no issues u should be good to go. However, $30 is not too bad, as I was led to believe it was a very pricy tool
+Wolfies Tech Bites eastcoastgearsupply.com has tools for cheap price. it uses an extension you supply to reach the adjusters.
great video,but where did you find this truck? at the bottom of the Atlantic😂😂😂?
Actually, on the edge of the Pacific lol.
Hahaha touché
O-K now i know what to do just need to know aboutt R V K ? or gasket maker
YTV permatex high temp red or blue or high bond strength grey silicone gasket maker is ideal. gaskets are not really a good idea. they really do start to leak after a while. I usually get a caulking gun size tube and then squeeze out a ball of silicone about 1/2" Diameter to rest at the tip I cut off and let it set for a day and then store the tube in a big double ziploc bag in a cool dry place and just pull the ball off up to months later and at most have to push out hardened material from the ip with a nail, after unthreading the plastic tip
when i installed my diff, i tightend down the main caps, and now its bound up. 98 f15, any clue?
+randog32 f150
many ford's use shims on the side of the carrier bearings. use a thinner shim on the drivers side. this let's he crown gear move away from he pinion. the exact backlash you should check the specifications in a manual. but a general rule is about 8 thousandths or bigger (10 thou is fine too) different thickness shims are sold by the Ford parts dealer. alldatadiy.com is a great resource for specific details when you want to be 100% sure. it's a pay site but they get their info directly from dealer repair manuals
Cool thanks a lot for the tip! I moved the diff over 10 thousands of an inch, works just fine!!!!
how do u install a ring gear on a dodge ram 1500
Sorry to have missed your comment Scott. I know it's a hell of a long time coming. but you usually won't need to heat it. I tapped it with a brass or steel punch in cross pattern, lightly, in sequence and it fell off easily. if you use a propane torch it can't possibly take the temper out of the metal. and if it seems you require heat, by all means do so, but focus all the heat on one spot or at most two (12 O'clock and 6 O'clock) using two torches. or you can use one torch if you focus on each of the spots for ten to 15 seconds at a time. a final few taps should have a gear come right off
Cool
Should have hearted it up
Enjoyed watching your video. I noticed your old differential carrier has two holes the right side for clutch guides . And the new differential carrier is setup different with springs. Any how on my truck... I was working on my truck and on mine, one of the clutch guides broke out and laying on the bottom inside of the pumpkin. I was told you need them in there to help stabilizing the diff. carrier My truck is a 2003 dodge dakota. 4 door V8 4.7 lt. same rear end as yours.
if you check my TH-cam video Called " Look at what i found inside the pumpkin"
Dont worry about that , if the track lock still locked clean the debris
How much did you spent to fix that?
I think it cost about $850 for the redesigned carrier and master kit and oil/additive
👍♥️♥️
Where did you get the carrier from?
kyle mcmullen ... from Yukon Gear