I've been cutting wood since I was a boy, and have always used one of these, great tool, and helps to keep your blade sharp longer by keeping it out of the dirt. Thanks for sharing Kevin, be well my friend.
I hop your son learn everything about you and appreciated all your tools and knowledge. Great less than regular price for buy one.. Everything high price
The jack is a great thing to do. Soooo many folks get saw cut by trying to hold a stem with a foot. Keep em both on the ground all the time eh ! Well done fella. This may save a lot of stitches eh. Great build fella !
Hi Kevin. I tried to build a cant hook, without welding. I have a pipe threader, metal cut off saw, 5" grinder, and electric rotary tool. I made my 51" piece of 3/4" in 2 parts. The bottom piece was around 12" long. I thread both ends of each piece of pipe. I joined the them with a 3/4"T, on the bottom of the 12" piece I put another 3/4"T. The lower T is to mount a T piece to convert the log cant into a log jack. On the bottom of the bottom T I put a 1" x 3/4" nipple with cap. I ended up slotting the nipple to bolt the bottom hook in. The top T, I slotted to bolt the big curved hook into. I mount a cap on top of the long pipe for a grip point. I tested today, worked good as a log cant. As a log jack it broke at the threads at the top of the 12" point. (I forgot to tighten it all the way.) I rethreaded the broken piece. The other small problem, the bottom hook might need to be longer. I'll know more after retesting. Regards George
I built one just a week or so ago. The Leverage advantage is 14:1. I tested it on a pretty big log and it came straight up off the ground in one pull... I'll suggest a couple of things which I've done which I believe makes it more versatile. First is that the very same leg and foot as you have, could have been welded on at 45 degrees just under the hinge of the top swinging hook. This greatly improves leverage. And second suggestion is that instead of a solid curved top hook which limits you to only certain sizes of log, use a broad link chain about 14 inches long and this way you drive a spike into the log first then bring the chain over the spike. Larger logs you spike at the full chain length and smaller at the shorter.... Great job you have done though and like everything, its trial and error..... I wished that I'd made what I have 1/3 of my lifetime ago because I have spent hundreds of hours hand digging under logs to put a piece of timber so as my chain did not hit the dirt. We learn something every day..... Lets see a video on your log roller in action.
Are you suggesting the leg be 45 deg AWAY from the handle, or back towards it? Also, all the commercially made jacks I've seen have the leg under the end hook, not the swinging hook. Does your design provide more leverage? Is there any way you can post a pic or video? Thanks!
Thanks for the Demo Kevin, may build one too. Think you may like to check out the Gorillabac log lift system. The log lifter that fits the most common log splitters on the market. Every woodsman can benefit by having an attachment that will pull, lift, position and hold firewood blocks for wood splitting and loading into a pickup. Improve safety, efficiency, wood yield and fun. Save your back and let a Gorilla do the work. Get Your Wood Up at @t related videos below @ @ @
You made a timberjack. A can't hook has a lip at the end to hook into the timber, a peavy has a straight spike out the end to roll logs, and a timberjack is a can't hook with a stand attached.
@@Robinson-Homestead interesting, inner shield and Flux core I use have shielded nozzles, it's the first time in 50 years of welding I've ever seen that. Cool.
Great work mate, love it !
Thanks my friend.
Looks great Kevin! Thank you for sharing!
I've been cutting wood since I was a boy, and have always used one of these, great tool, and helps to keep your blade sharp longer by keeping it out of the dirt. Thanks for sharing Kevin, be well my friend.
Top video mate. Just knocked up a 70" jack this afternoon using mostly this video and your testing/updates as a guide. Thanks from Australia. 👍👍
Thank you my friend glad to help.
I hop your son learn everything about you and appreciated all your tools and knowledge. Great less than regular price for buy one.. Everything high price
My boys have TH-cam Channels also they like helping people.
Very good video Kevin, I really enjoy your videos you do a great job of explaining all that you are doing Great Job
Great Job Kevin! That sure looks real handy!
Hope it works.
The jack is a great thing to do. Soooo many folks get saw cut by trying to hold a stem with a foot. Keep em both on the ground all the time eh ! Well done fella. This may save a lot of stitches eh. Great build fella !
Nice work.ive been putting mine off for awhile now thanks for sharing
Thanks for the comment Johnny.
Excellent tutorial, will start on mine tomorrow following your guidance exactly.
Best of luck!
did you get around to making a vidio on how well it worked
Nice job dad!
Hi Kevin.
I tried to build a cant hook, without welding. I have a pipe threader, metal cut off saw, 5" grinder, and electric rotary tool.
I made my 51" piece of 3/4" in 2 parts. The bottom piece was around 12" long. I thread both ends of each piece of pipe. I joined the them with a 3/4"T, on the bottom of the 12" piece I put another 3/4"T. The lower T is to mount a T piece to convert the log cant into a log jack. On the bottom of the bottom T I put a 1" x 3/4" nipple with cap. I ended up slotting the nipple to bolt the bottom hook in.
The top T, I slotted to bolt the big curved hook into. I mount a cap on top of the long pipe for a grip point.
I tested today, worked good as a log cant. As a log jack it broke at the threads at the top of the 12" point.
(I forgot to tighten it all the way.)
I rethreaded the broken piece. The other small problem, the bottom hook might need to be longer. I'll know more after retesting.
Regards
George
I'm sure you will get it thanks for the comment and watching.
Great video I really enjoyed it thanks my friend your Number one fan G-man
Thank you G-man my friend.
I built one just a week or so ago. The Leverage advantage is 14:1. I tested it on a pretty big log and it came straight up off the ground in one pull... I'll suggest a couple of things which I've done which I believe makes it more versatile. First is that the very same leg and foot as you have, could have been welded on at 45 degrees just under the hinge of the top swinging hook. This greatly improves leverage. And second suggestion is that instead of a solid curved top hook which limits you to only certain sizes of log, use a broad link chain about 14 inches long and this way you drive a spike into the log first then bring the chain over the spike. Larger logs you spike at the full chain length and smaller at the shorter.... Great job you have done though and like everything, its trial and error..... I wished that I'd made what I have 1/3 of my lifetime ago because I have spent hundreds of hours hand digging under logs to put a piece of timber so as my chain did not hit the dirt. We learn something every day..... Lets see a video on your log roller in action.
I have a video th-cam.com/video/SMcPQvVKpvI/w-d-xo.html
Are you suggesting the leg be 45 deg AWAY from the handle, or back towards it?
Also, all the commercially made jacks I've seen have the leg under the end hook, not the swinging hook. Does your design provide more leverage?
Is there any way you can post a pic or video? Thanks!
Thanks for the Demo Kevin, may build one too. Think you may like to check out the Gorillabac log lift system. The log lifter that fits the most common log splitters on the market. Every woodsman can benefit by having an attachment that will pull, lift, position and hold firewood blocks for wood splitting and loading into a pickup. Improve safety, efficiency, wood yield and fun.
Save your back and let a Gorilla do the work. Get Your Wood Up at @t related videos below
@
@
@
Looks great please make a video of how it worked it looks way more heavy duty than the ones you can buy in the store
I will be getting on that one thanks.
Great job on that one👍
Thank you Charlie.
Good video 👍
Wow it's the perfect design
It's working great thanks for the comment
Heavy, better handle made by wood. Keep up the good work.
Thank you 123kkambiz.
Nice video, I just wish I had a forge.
I have videos on how to build a forge.
Looking to see how well your timberjack works. I am going to make one since the one I have is too short (48"), I want 60".
thanks for watching
awesome crafstmanship ;)
Thank you.
there called a log peavy , good build
it's a peavy in England but it is a cant hook in the USA good vid
You can use an old u-bolt from a truck spring. They can be had at any truck repair shop for free.
Good idea thanks.
😂
Thanks for watching.
You made a timberjack. A can't hook has a lip at the end to hook into the timber, a peavy has a straight spike out the end to roll logs, and a timberjack is a can't hook with a stand attached.
Thank you for the info Alex.
👍😎
Thanks for the video. Did you get a chance to use it? How well did it work? Was there anything you would change? Thanks again.
Yes I have a video th-cam.com/video/SMcPQvVKpvI/w-d-xo.html thank you for watching
You could have avoided the time forging by just welding a flat stock piece on the end of the rod
Thanks for the comment
Where's your nozzle for your mig gun? LOL ....That is unless it's just Flux core...
I'm using flux core no need for nozzle thanks for the comment.
@@Robinson-Homestead interesting, inner shield and Flux core I use have shielded nozzles, it's the first time in 50 years of welding I've ever seen that. Cool.
Quero fazer uma baitaca trabalhando com motor serra vejo que é muito útil
Thanks for watching.
Two cannisters of gas close to where he's welding. just saying
Bobby,yeah i need to be more careful next time thanks for the comment.
Your foot for the log jack is to small and must be flat.
Thanks for the comment Mark.
Don't get me wrong, it was a good video just,,,,,,get to the point..
Thanks for the comment Russell.
Talk too much.
Thanks for the comment