Thanks, Larry, for a great comparison of different mortar techniques in a controlled test. I love following your weathering videos. If you ever want to try more products for filling mortar lines, may I suggest you look at Distress Crayons. I've been using them for years to fill in mortar lines, especially in laser-cut walls where the mortar lines are often finer and more to scale. But they've been effective in plastic, hydrocal, and resin walls as well. I have a few videos showing how to apply them. Keep up the great work.
I have a roundhouse I've been waiting for a good video to watch to help me paint. This was an excellent video! I think the concrete base with red dry brush technique (1st one) turned out really well. Thanks Larry.
thank you for your informative video, I too am thinking of removing paint from a industrial building and was wondering what method would be most useful in producing the best results? thank you, Ken.
To strip the paint it depends on what kind of paint was originally used. I often use plain old isopropyl alcohol as a paint stripper and it does a pretty good job. People used to used Pinesol cleaner too but my wife hates the smell so I can’t do that. My favorite commercial stripper is made by Scalecoat and does a great job. However if the paint you want to remove isn’t very heavy you could just try apply a light overcoat and go for it-that’s what I ended up doing with the small building in this case.
Very interesting. I use the dry brush technique myself in N Scale; however, I don't use paint--I use dark rust weathering powder. It sticks very well to the mortar colored paint. Rather than a brush, I use a makeup sponge. I get great results. Thanks for sharing.
Nice work Larry i have found two ways of ading the mortar that works for me. 1 make a wash and apply it over the surface and remove the excess paint of the top of the bricks and secondly use the paint full strengh and work in small sections and wipe the excess of straight away and i have found those two methods have worked the best for me.
One little more work requiring method is to coat the bricks with gloss varnish, then use some enamel/oil based panel liner or paint and finish it up with a final coat of matte varnish! Enamel and spirit based oil paints have very low surface tension so they tend to naturally flow to every nook and cranny on the brick wall. Gloss varnish is used to help the flow even more and also makes it easier to remove the excess using a piece of damp cloth or something similar.
Thanks for posting. Good stuff! One technique that I have used very successfully on my N scale projects is spackling paste. I buy it in small 8 oz. plastic containers and add a couple teaspoons of water, and mix until it is the consistency of tooth paste. Then I dip in a finger and just rub it onto the surface. After a few minutes of drying I wipe off with a dry finger tip or maybe a soft cloth. It looks awesome. What I really like about it is that you can then go back and stain with watered down paint or ink to prevent the "mortar" from having an overly consistent white look. Not sure the paste would work as well on HO scale. It might. Another time I used Colgate toothpaste (whitening formula). It worked pretty well also, but not as good as the paste.
Good video. I have tried most of the same techniques as you show with mixed results. I now use Roberts Brick Mortar Formula with good results. I have successfully (although somewhat tedious) used a "wicking" method of applying a wash of gray paint with a few drops of alcohol added as a flow agent. With this method I load up the brush the just touch it to an area and the wash will wick down into the mortar lines without getting on the brick surface.. Also, when brushing or wiping the brick surface, I always try to wipe at a 45 degree angle to the mortar lines to avoid fiber or brush hairs from getting down into the mortar lines as much as possible. I have also found that the best thing to wipe the brick surface is a moist finger as it does not get into the mortar lines at all. Just my tips on how I do it.
I use Robert's Brick Mortar formula as well. It works really well. I just completed one of Walters industrial background buildings where I first airbrushed the panels a uniform brown, then spent over a day just individually painting at random roughly 20% of the bricks mineral red, all before adding the mortar lines and weathering. It was tedious, but I was really pleased with how it turned out.
Larry really good post. I liked the base coat, cement/gray paint wipe off with the India ink wash. It may look good with the mat finish. I'll have to try my test walls. It's up to the individual for the look they are after. You've done a great job on the backdrop walls on your layout. Thanks and take care.
I like the India ink technique the best. Have you tried different color India ink washes? I was looking on Amazon and they have browns, white and different colors that I think would work in addition to black.
Someone else suggested that too. I am not sure how it will work. The black India ink has lamp black in it which bonds to surfaces without any added bonding agents. The colored inks have pigments in them and I assume a binding agent to make them stick. I guess it would be worth an experiment.
I use some of the Hubrol Enamel washes, the dust one works well for mortar, and once dry can be worked back with a cotton bud and thinner, which will let the brick coulour come to the fore. Great video Paul
I think the real issue with this model was the very thin and shallow mortar lines. Made it very difficult to get the paint in them without wiping it back out or filling it with paint when I dry brushed. I used a thin light gray wash on a more recent Peco model with deeper lines and it came out great. For the gas works as a whole I just used the black ink wash method and am happy with it. I still need to give the joint compound a test-there seem to be are about as many different methods as there are kits.
Drybrushing on brick surfaces for the effect you're looking for is easier with a foam "brush" or fine foam make-up pad. If you must use a brush, only stroke against the masonry lines, not parallel with them; this keeps the hairs from getting down into the masonry. Also, it's a whole lot easier to do any of the finishing on these structures before they are assembled.
I'll soon be kitbashing a backdrop factory built from old Revell/AHM enginehouse/bakery/newspaper kits, so this video was very timely for me. In my opinion, the India ink wash looked the best, at least for a dirty building. I did learn the hard way to avoid alcohol based washes over Vallejo paints and matt varnishes, as it gums them up if the wash is too heavy. In that case I use a water based acrylic wash, adding a flow additive if it's homemade to avoid puddling (unless I want puddling). I do plan on using hardware store red primer as you did for this upcoming project, so I'll likely use the India ink wash for that. Thanks for sharing!
@@JohnMullerJDGCTRy I haven't planned ahead far enough to give you a good answer, John. A preliminary look suggests that at a minimum all the side walls will be used, as I have a fairly long stretch of backdrop to cover. It's really a shame that these classic kits are no longer available.
That's true. The engine house was one of the first kits that I built (with help) for my first 4x8 when I going on 8. My dad had his own layout and for Christmas he built the base and I 80% of the rest. I'm 70 now and still can remember my first set 4 or 5. Thanks for the reply.
Hi Larry, great to see your various techniques. I think I preferred adding the grey wash over the sprayed red brick and then wiping it off. You mentioned that you just might strip it and paint it again. Is there a video you have that shows how you do that? Would it work to strip paint off locos or rolling stock?
I ended up just hitting it with the same spray paint as I initially used and then weathered it with the black wash and some dry brushing for highlights. When stripping locos I like Scalecoat paint stripper. Some paints can be stripped using concentrated IPA.
I've had success with artist oil paint washes. I use Unbleached Titanium White by Master's Touch (Hobby Lobby house brand, but any grayish-tan will do, you can mix your own if you need to), VERY thinned down with mineral spirits, and a REALLY cheap nylon-bristled paint brush (like the ones that come with those cheap kid's solid pan water color paint sets, the important thing is that the bristles are not able to actually absorb the wash), and through capillary action the mortar just flows off the brush and into the mortar lines just by touching the brush to the surface, and because you're not smearing anything to the actual surface of the brick, there's nothing to wipe off when you're done! Plus, once dry, the mortar is impervious to any water-based weathering you apply next.
Yes, oils can be much more forgiving than acrylics which dry very quickly. However they also can be trickier for many not used to them to use. They use them a lot more in the UK than we seem to do here in the US.
Gee whiz! Not an hour ago I asked if you'd ever dealt with this subject, and bingo! Are you hiding a few thousand videos in your back pocket? In any event, thank you so very much for posting this. It's fascinating and VERY helpful. Regarding the baking soda test: I might try the same technique using a finely ground gray chalk. Presumably the fine grains are solidly pigmented. I wonder if they'd not dissolve as the baking soda did when you added the fixative. When I can try that, I'll post info about the result. If it seems to work well, I'll add process information. Thank you again.
I don’t think it dissolved as the same thing happens when I use chalk or weathering powders on freight cars. I’ve used larger grain powder on O scale brick and also did the same thing. Not sure what the physics involved are.
I appreciate the demo. I'm wondering if you'd get a better effect if the white/gray mortar lines were restricted to a smaller section of a wall with some overlap left on the bricks in this area. The idea being that it's lime leaching out. Then zap it with the india ink to add the grime effect.
They usually come out with quite a bit of variability on a larger surface so experiment with it. In reality having variations on the coverage will make it look more realistic.
I use two methods that you may want to try first one I mix white India ink with a small drop of black India ink to make a grey color with a drop of flow aid. second way is to use Tamiya dark grey panel liner when dry I use a moist q tip with paint thinner to clean up the brick. On your building I would use the second type to get in the off set brick work.
I have used DAP wall filler with very good results. Just wipe on, let it dry, then lightly buff off any excess. If you don't like the look you can just use water and remove portions or all and start over. Very easy.
The method I use is common house filler applied and then wipe most off. Brick painted or not,but some individual bricks painted in different shades/colours. Flat finish sprayed to seal. If you are going to paint bricks ,do base colour first.For me this gives best result.Of course you may want to do painted brick (prototype) or simulate stucco,this is an option.
Nice to see different methods side by side, but I thought you went way too fast without letting each application dry between methods. I also prefer using a smaller brush. My preferred method, which you did not show is to paint the brick, then apply a 10:1 'wash' of 'mortar' paint which can be blotted out of corners/crevices with a Q-tip or tissue - be sure to keep the walls flat until they are dry before you go to another side. This way the 'mortar' doesn't run to one side of the model. After it dries, a second application of the mortar wash may help to get the mortar to 'pop' a bit more. Your India Ink wash was similar to this, but I think using a grey paint wash gives a better look than the 'buffing' method.
The dry brush method requires 2 or 3 lightly applied coats brushing from all directions to get a good even look that finishes looking the brick color and not the mortor color .
Larry, You are missing two other methods I use that are a bit easier. Both are washes. One is an Acrylic and distilled water wash and the other 91% alcohol and acrylic gray or cement paint. I like Aged cement paint for old and light gray for newer buildings. The 91% alcohol method dries faster. I use Rustolium or Krylon brick colored primer like you do and let it dry. With the Acrylic and water method, mist a bit of 'wet' water ( distilled water and a drop of dawn dish soap is what I use) over the model. Holding it at an angle with the bottom down take the same sized brush you were using and dip it in the mixture. When you touch the model the paint will flow into the mortar lines and wick its way down the model. You can do the whole model or just one side. Let is set for about 3 to 5 minutes and set the model on its bass. Wick away any excess with a paper towel when it gets to the bottom. The other is just like your alcohol and India ink method only you don't pre-wet the model. When they are dry you can blend it in with India ink black or brown wash. Let that dry. Then you can either leave it as is or use a matte finish. Here's a neat trick for weathering grey on roofs. Paint the roof you color you want. then apply Dullcoat. After the dullcoat dries use your India ink and alcohol wash over the top of it. When it dries it leaves a grayish haze on it. Now if you don't like it, spray it with Dullcoat and it disappears.
A light white/gray coating on the brick is actually prototypical. It's known as efflorescence. It's what happens when water brings out the salts to the surface of the brick. I use a wash of light gray acrylic and cover the brick. I let it dry, then use a cloth and buff it off the surface. Letting it dry allows me to buff the surface of the brick, but it doesn't pull the wash out of the mortar lines. Any gray wash left on the surface is just efflorescence.
Is the concrete and light grey wash oil or acrylic? I think this looks best. Most contrast. Seems easy too. I recently tried the dry brush on top method to no avail. I have also had decent success with powdered pastels. Great tutorial!!!! Thanks again as always. Such a pleasure watching your videos.
Think I'm old school Larry. Paint the brickwork, drybrush in the mortar, ('buff') wipe off from the brick faces, dry brush in weathering and finally seal with dulcote. Prefer acrylics thse days.
How many people on here realize that your were a contributer for M.R Magazine for years/decades. I've been following you that long 😜🚂🚂🚂🚂 young man.
Thanks, Larry, for a great comparison of different mortar techniques in a controlled test. I love following your weathering videos. If you ever want to try more products for filling mortar lines, may I suggest you look at Distress Crayons. I've been using them for years to fill in mortar lines, especially in laser-cut walls where the mortar lines are often finer and more to scale. But they've been effective in plastic, hydrocal, and resin walls as well. I have a few videos showing how to apply them. Keep up the great work.
I have a roundhouse I've been waiting for a good video to watch to help me paint. This was an excellent video! I think the concrete base with red dry brush technique (1st one) turned out really well. Thanks Larry.
Great video Larry
The india ink did the job
thank you for your informative video, I too am thinking of removing paint from a industrial building and was wondering what method would be most useful in producing the best results? thank you, Ken.
To strip the paint it depends on what kind of paint was originally used. I often use plain old isopropyl alcohol as a paint stripper and it does a pretty good job. People used to used Pinesol cleaner too but my wife hates the smell so I can’t do that. My favorite commercial stripper is made by Scalecoat and does a great job. However if the paint you want to remove isn’t very heavy you could just try apply a light overcoat and go for it-that’s what I ended up doing with the small building in this case.
Great to see the different techniques in such detail....Thanks for sharing!!!! I think we all struggle to get the right look on our models!
Very interesting. I use the dry brush technique myself in N Scale; however, I don't use paint--I use dark rust weathering powder. It sticks very well to the mortar colored paint. Rather than a brush, I use a makeup sponge. I get great results. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for this video!! I think i'm gonna try the grey base + dry painting the brick over, looks like a technique i can use pretty well!
What if you combined the first twi methods? Buff off the mortar paint then dry brush on the red?
Nice work Larry i have found two ways of ading the mortar that works for me. 1 make a wash and apply it over the surface and remove the excess paint of the top of the bricks and secondly use the paint full strengh and work in small sections and wipe the excess of straight away and i have found those two methods have worked the best for me.
For baking soda, sealing it with hairspray works really well. It will disappear initially but come back once it dries out.
Thanks Larry, Helps me a lot. 🐾🚂 BearCreek RR, KY.
Thank you. I think using different techniques is best, so each structure looks prototypicaly
...different.
I've used drywall patch.
One little more work requiring method is to coat the bricks with gloss varnish, then use some enamel/oil based panel liner or paint and finish it up with a final coat of matte varnish!
Enamel and spirit based oil paints have very low surface tension so they tend to naturally flow to every nook and cranny on the brick wall. Gloss varnish is used to help the flow even more and also makes it easier to remove the excess using a piece of damp cloth or something similar.
Thanks for posting. Good stuff! One technique that I have used very successfully on my N scale projects is spackling paste. I buy it in small 8 oz. plastic containers and add a couple teaspoons of water, and mix until it is the consistency of tooth paste. Then I dip in a finger and just rub it onto the surface. After a few minutes of drying I wipe off with a dry finger tip or maybe a soft cloth. It looks awesome. What I really like about it is that you can then go back and stain with watered down paint or ink to prevent the "mortar" from having an overly consistent white look. Not sure the paste would work as well on HO scale. It might. Another time I used Colgate toothpaste (whitening formula). It worked pretty well also, but not as good as the paste.
Good video. I have tried most of the same techniques as you show with mixed results. I now use Roberts Brick Mortar Formula with good results. I have successfully (although somewhat tedious) used a "wicking" method of applying a wash of gray paint with a few drops of alcohol added as a flow agent. With this method I load up the brush the just touch it to an area and the wash will wick down into the mortar lines without getting on the brick surface.. Also, when brushing or wiping the brick surface, I always try to wipe at a 45 degree angle to the mortar lines to avoid fiber or brush hairs from getting down into the mortar lines as much as possible. I have also found that the best thing to wipe the brick surface is a moist finger as it does not get into the mortar lines at all. Just my tips on how I do it.
I use Robert's Brick Mortar formula as well. It works really well. I just completed one of Walters industrial background buildings where I first airbrushed the panels a uniform brown, then spent over a day just individually painting at random roughly 20% of the bricks mineral red, all before adding the mortar lines and weathering. It was tedious, but I was really pleased with how it turned out.
Larry really good post. I liked the base coat, cement/gray paint wipe off with the India ink wash. It may look good with the mat finish. I'll have to try my test walls. It's up to the individual for the look they are after. You've done a great job on the backdrop walls on your layout. Thanks and take care.
Great video, keep em' coming.
I like the India ink technique the best. Have you tried different color India ink washes? I was looking on Amazon and they have browns, white and different colors that I think would work in addition to black.
Someone else suggested that too. I am not sure how it will work. The black India ink has lamp black in it which bonds to surfaces without any added bonding agents. The colored inks have pigments in them and I assume a binding agent to make them stick. I guess it would be worth an experiment.
Great video and idea, thanks so much.
I use some of the Hubrol Enamel washes, the dust one works well for mortar, and once dry can be worked back with a cotton bud and thinner, which will let the brick coulour come to the fore.
Great video
Paul
I think the real issue with this model was the very thin and shallow mortar lines. Made it very difficult to get the paint in them without wiping it back out or filling it with paint when I dry brushed. I used a thin light gray wash on a more recent Peco model with deeper lines and it came out great. For the gas works as a whole I just used the black ink wash method and am happy with it. I still need to give the joint compound a test-there seem to be are about as many different methods as there are kits.
Thanks Larry!
I've got one more Larry. Though I don't know if you can find it.
I use white shoe polish. Then wipe it off . It dries well and takes India ink well.
Drybrushing on brick surfaces for the effect you're looking for is easier with a foam "brush" or fine foam make-up pad. If you must use a brush, only stroke against the masonry lines, not parallel with them; this keeps the hairs from getting down into the masonry. Also, it's a whole lot easier to do any of the finishing on these structures before they are assembled.
That model looks like the Airfix Victorian Cottage which would look wonderful in Humbrol Brick Red!!
Awesome thank you 🙏 your video was absolutely amazing and so helpful 😀
I'll soon be kitbashing a backdrop factory built from old Revell/AHM enginehouse/bakery/newspaper kits, so this video was very timely for me. In my opinion, the India ink wash looked the best, at least for a dirty building. I did learn the hard way to avoid alcohol based washes over Vallejo paints and matt varnishes, as it gums them up if the wash is too heavy. In that case I use a water based acrylic wash, adding a flow additive if it's homemade to avoid puddling (unless I want puddling). I do plan on using hardware store red primer as you did for this upcoming project, so I'll likely use the India ink wash for that. Thanks for sharing!
Andrew I wish I had some of those kits in the worst way. You are a very lucky man. Do you have any extra walls or kits you'd be willing to sell?
@@JohnMullerJDGCTRy I haven't planned ahead far enough to give you a good answer, John. A preliminary look suggests that at a minimum all the side walls will be used, as I have a fairly long stretch of backdrop to cover. It's really a shame that these classic kits are no longer available.
That's true. The engine house was one of the first kits that I built (with help) for my first 4x8 when I going on 8. My dad had his own layout and for Christmas he built the base and I 80% of the rest. I'm 70 now and still can remember my first set 4 or 5. Thanks for the reply.
Hi Larry, great to see your various techniques. I think I preferred adding the grey wash over the sprayed red brick and then wiping it off.
You mentioned that you just might strip it and paint it again. Is there a video you have that shows how you do that? Would it work to strip paint off locos or rolling stock?
I ended up just hitting it with the same spray paint as I initially used and then weathered it with the black wash and some dry brushing for highlights. When stripping locos I like Scalecoat paint stripper. Some paints can be stripped using concentrated IPA.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for the fast reply. I sure am enjoying your video instructions.
I've had success with artist oil paint washes. I use Unbleached Titanium White by Master's Touch (Hobby Lobby house brand, but any grayish-tan will do, you can mix your own if you need to), VERY thinned down with mineral spirits, and a REALLY cheap nylon-bristled paint brush (like the ones that come with those cheap kid's solid pan water color paint sets, the important thing is that the bristles are not able to actually absorb the wash), and through capillary action the mortar just flows off the brush and into the mortar lines just by touching the brush to the surface, and because you're not smearing anything to the actual surface of the brick, there's nothing to wipe off when you're done! Plus, once dry, the mortar is impervious to any water-based weathering you apply next.
Yes, oils can be much more forgiving than acrylics which dry very quickly. However they also can be trickier for many not used to them to use. They use them a lot more in the UK than we seem to do here in the US.
Have you ever tried liquid shoe polish for mortar lines?
I have heard of it but not tried it.
Gee whiz! Not an hour ago I asked if you'd ever dealt with this subject, and bingo! Are you hiding a few thousand videos in your back pocket? In any event, thank you so very much for posting this. It's fascinating and VERY helpful.
Regarding the baking soda test: I might try the same technique using a finely ground gray chalk. Presumably the fine grains are solidly pigmented. I wonder if they'd not dissolve as the baking soda did when you added the fixative. When I can try that, I'll post info about the result. If it seems to work well, I'll add process information.
Thank you again.
I don’t think it dissolved as the same thing happens when I use chalk or weathering powders on freight cars. I’ve used larger grain powder on O scale brick and also did the same thing. Not sure what the physics involved are.
I appreciate the demo. I'm wondering if you'd get a better effect if the white/gray mortar lines were restricted to a smaller section of a wall with some overlap left on the bricks in this area. The idea being that it's lime leaching out. Then zap it with the india ink to add the grime effect.
They usually come out with quite a bit of variability on a larger surface so experiment with it. In reality having variations on the coverage will make it look more realistic.
We, over here in the Old Country, would use a Humbrol Red Oxide enamel paint to undercoat the building, and Humbrol Brick Red as a topcoat.
Joint compound can be used instead of paint or powder. Wipe it on, maybe watered down, and wipe it off.
I use two methods that you may want to try first one I mix white India ink with a small drop of black India ink to make a grey color with a drop of flow aid. second way is to use Tamiya dark grey panel liner when dry I use a moist q tip with paint thinner to clean up the brick. On your building I would use the second type to get in the off set brick work.
Try talcum power!! We do it for creating mortar on model houses!!
I have used DAP wall filler with very good results. Just wipe on, let it dry, then lightly buff off any excess. If you don't like the look you can just use water and remove portions or all and start over. Very easy.
The method I use is common house filler applied and then wipe most off. Brick painted or not,but some individual bricks painted in different shades/colours. Flat finish sprayed to seal. If you are going to paint bricks ,do base colour first.For me this gives best result.Of course you may want to do painted brick (prototype) or simulate stucco,this is an option.
Because you get salt in bricks any light patches is salt coming through you get a lot of this in the uk but enjoyed the video 😊
Nice to see different methods side by side, but I thought you went way too fast without letting each application dry between methods. I also prefer using a smaller brush.
My preferred method, which you did not show is to paint the brick, then apply a 10:1 'wash' of 'mortar' paint which can be blotted out of corners/crevices with a Q-tip or tissue - be sure to keep the walls flat until they are dry before you go to another side. This way the 'mortar' doesn't run to one side of the model. After it dries, a second application of the mortar wash may help to get the mortar to 'pop' a bit more. Your India Ink wash was similar to this, but I think using a grey paint wash gives a better look than the 'buffing' method.
The dry brush method requires 2 or 3 lightly applied coats brushing from all directions to get a good even look that finishes looking the brick color and not the mortor color .
Larry, You are missing two other methods I use that are a bit easier. Both are washes. One is an Acrylic and distilled water wash and the other 91% alcohol and acrylic gray or cement paint. I like Aged cement paint for old and light gray for newer buildings. The 91% alcohol method dries faster. I use Rustolium or Krylon brick colored primer like you do and let it dry. With the Acrylic and water method, mist a bit of 'wet' water ( distilled water and a drop of dawn dish soap is what I use) over the model. Holding it at an angle with the bottom down take the same sized brush you were using and dip it in the mixture. When you touch the model the paint will flow into the mortar lines and wick its way down the model. You can do the whole model or just one side. Let is set for about 3 to 5 minutes and set the model on its bass. Wick away any excess with a paper towel when it gets to the bottom. The other is just like your alcohol and India ink method only you don't pre-wet the model. When they are dry you can blend it in with India ink black or brown wash. Let that dry. Then you can either leave it as is or use a matte finish. Here's a neat trick for weathering grey on roofs. Paint the roof you color you want. then apply Dullcoat. After the dullcoat dries use your India ink and alcohol wash over the top of it. When it dries it leaves a grayish haze on it. Now if you don't like it, spray it with Dullcoat and it disappears.
A light white/gray coating on the brick is actually prototypical. It's known as efflorescence. It's what happens when water brings out the salts to the surface of the brick. I use a wash of light gray acrylic and cover the brick. I let it dry, then use a cloth and buff it off the surface. Letting it dry allows me to buff the surface of the brick, but it doesn't pull the wash out of the mortar lines. Any gray wash left on the surface is just efflorescence.
India ink comes in a variety of colors. Perhaps a grey ink would give a realistic mortar color.
Your India Ink mix... That would be 10 parts Ink to 1 part water? And is this similar to the Tamiya Panel Accent Line Color?
...and as you can tell from my question... I'm leaning towards the Black (Ink) Wash effect.
Is the concrete and light grey wash oil or acrylic? I think this looks best. Most contrast. Seems easy too. I recently tried the dry brush on top method to no avail. I have also had decent success with powdered pastels. Great tutorial!!!! Thanks again as always. Such a pleasure watching your videos.
Isopropyl alcohol.
The stuff in the can probably is enamel but the grey wash was acrylic.
Thanks so much!! I accidentally commented on BigAl’s comment. Sorry for the accidental hijack.
Indie ink excellent way for steam era.
Think I'm old school Larry. Paint the brickwork, drybrush in the mortar, ('buff') wipe off from the brick faces, dry brush in weathering and finally seal with dulcote. Prefer acrylics thse days.
Your alcohol expired in 06!😀 love your videos
Does alcohol go bad?
@@TheDCCGuy never