Cracking video. Liked and subbed. As hobbyists we could definitely learn from your "have a go" attitude. The highlights for me (excuse the pun) were; the white ink for pre-shading and that yellow crane is gorgeous. Love your work.
Thanks, and welcome to Goobertown! I probably have more test models around here than finished models. Lots of fun experiments to make videos out of :-)
Thank you for this all-encompassing review. It inspired me to test some new things. I never used inks through the airbrush before. BTW did you ever tried to use Daler Romney’s fluorescent acrylic inks through the airbrush? Does it have the same flow and consistency as usual inks?
Awesome work, my friend. For me, the real winners were the smoothness of the liquid white pigment through the airbrush, and the vibrancy of the yellow. Paints that use granulated pigment just take so much work to get right, whereas this seems like it just wants to be sprayed! From one new channel to another, you're making amazing content! :)
It’s so nice to find a hobby youtuber that is so relaxed, just sharing info and isn’t selling their way as “the correct way” do to things, humble and their content isn’t like watching an energy drink commercial at a monster truck rally. Great stuff!
Hahaha "energy drink commercial at a monster truck rally." I know exactly what you mean. Thanks for watching! I'm really glad that you're liking the channel, I'll keep making these videos :-)
Wow! A+ video man. I've used some of the darker green liquitex ink through an airbrush for doing mossy/grime effects but I never even considered that something like a white ink would work so well. This is so much better than thinning white paint.
I have to admit that I had never thought of airbrushing models with acrylic inks but the results are outstanding. I think the Thalo Blue would work very well as a base color for a Space Marine tank or APC. The Land Raider color is close enough to the Salamander scheme that I would finish it as such. After seeing the results a wash would really set off the color schemes. I will seriously think of using this method on a Rhino model I plan to build. Thanks for sharing this interesting and helpful tutorial.
I'm glad to hear that this is giving you ideas- these inks definitely have a ton of potential. Please let me know if you end up inking that rhino or anything else! :-)
I had to come back to this one Brent, a brilliant tour of the ink possibilities. I've just bought a set of 6 plus BW, so tomorrow my Frostgrave Demons. Thank you for the great videos.
Thank you so much for this. If nothing else the white for Zenithal is something everyone should switch to. It was so bad for me I always have a sponge moistened with airbrush cleaner so when the tip dry/clog happens every 30-45 sec using white primer and clean and be back in business relatively quickly (as quick as you can be having to do something so often that isn't your paint job.) Thanks again!
I was just sitting there procrastinating today, but this video really put me in the mood to some painting! got the whole night ahead of me now :) thanks for making such awesome videos!
Thank you for your video using the inks. For the army painter paints ( I am sure you did this ) but when you first open the paint to remove the excess medium they put in the bottle for shelf life. If you don’t and just mix the paint it will end up super splotchy. If you already have opened and let it stand a couple of days the extra medium will separate and will be able to remove some of it. I have had good luck with thin orc blood ( 2 coats coverage over black primer ) I like it for base of demon skin
if you did a amazon associate account for your youtube, you could put links in the description for the paints you use and make $$$ off of it. Just a suggestion great video.
Thanks! You're right I should really get that set up. I've been surprised by the amount of views I'm getting recently, I gotta hurry up and get GoobertownHobbies.com opperational with some affiliate links to useful supplies up there. :-)
Thanks for pointing this out! I should have mentioned it. This is one reason why I like having the pigments listed on the bottle :-) It's the heavy metal pigments that I pay the most attention to, and one of the yellows WAS cadmium yellow. I looked into it and that particular metal complex isn't anywhere near as dangerous as some of the others. The reds I used were organic molecules (nahpthols and pyrroles), which aren't too worrisome. Thanks again for mentioning this, I'll put some safety info in the next video I make about pigments or airbrushing!
That's why you always wear a mask with carbon filters. No vapours of particles inhaled. Should be standard practice when working with any spray paints or solvents. Just like wearing gloves.
These videos are such a joy to watch. I love your risk taking approach combined with your calm manner in the videos. Just gives the most happy chilled vibes when viewing. Thanks for making these. The pigment discussions are also interesting and educational for me. Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks Johnny, I'm glad that you like watching this stuff! I appreciate the feedback, I'm aiming for calm and relaxing without being too boring :-) More of this stuff is in the pipeline!
interesting you base paint with inks, I use the FW Artist inks for lifting the yellows and whites during highlighting which are usually the problematic acrylic colours.
That primary blue ink is a lie lol. The pigment Primary Blue 15 is right but essentially you have the ink suspended with Primary White 6 which turns it into a paint. I'm thinking it'd be better to buy a inkjet cyan refill to get a true tint-only PB15 that will mix with anything else, including white to get their primary blue color lol. Notice that all the inks on the FW website chart that have PW6 in them have less transparency. If you're trying to tint a zenithal (which looks sweet) these opaques are less up for the job. As an aside, is that a Badger patriot airbrush are you using in this video? It puts down spray like a skunk trying to save it's life compared to my measly spray cone lol. Thanks for all you do Brent. This was really helpful to see.
@@GoobertownHobbies Do what is comfortable there is no right and wrong when it comes to art. Can you imagine if they told Michael Angelo he was holding is chisel wrong?
I work pretty much only with inks during basecoating. Favorite stuff. One thing I love is if you've got ink left in the cup and you want to go back and pick out details like the tops of shoulders, you can mix a drop or two of white into your cup and mix it in there before going back. Prevents you from wasting ink you overestimated needing.
Yep, straight out of the bottle flows great and doesn't clog (I did at least rinse a bit between colors). I was using 0.2 mm and 30 PSI, but I really don't know what is ideal. Have fun! It's super easy to make this effect look cool :-)
That makes sense. I'm just so enamored by the way that green highlights up to yellow that I was wondering if blue could do anything exciting like that :-)
Beautiful. What makes your vids so engaging is your modesty and your willingness to make mistakes. An inspiration, most of all for we perfectionists, who need to get out of our way more often and just have some fun.
Thanks for watching Mark! Yep, the only way to learn is to try new things and see what happens :-) I definitely stumbled on some fun ideas in this video that I'll use "for real" eventually.
I'm a fine artist and I use acrylic inks to paint on canvases. I don't paint models but I think yours are very cool. (I used to paint my then-husband's little D&D metal figurines, especially to make scrolls look antique, but with a brush, not an airbrush.) What I'm trying to find out which is "the best" acrylic ink, Liquitex or Daler Rowney. Do you have a preference? Thanks for uploading, this is really cool.
Holy crap those muted inks on the Dark Eldar / Drukhari are gorgeous!!!!!! Do you still have those models? I would purchase from you if youd were interested!
thanks! I still have some of them, but they're not for sale... I keep almost everything that I paint because they always end up coming handy for making future videos... eventually :-) I totally believe in you though, if you have some extra cash you should buy an airbrush and some inks and give it a try!! :-)
Someone in the comments told me to try yellow over pink+white. It sounds insane, but it's my new favorite thing. I'll show it off in a video one of these days!
Hey! What setup are you painting on? I was thinking of setting up an airbrush booth in my home, but was wondering about ventilation. If you're not using a booth, how are you handling the fumes?
I do have a HEPA filter running full blast just offscreen. This one I think: th-cam.com/video/HRmkY8QyHO0/w-d-xo.html For longer projects I often wear a 3m breathing mask. I don't want to encourage anyone to take risks with their health, but the fumes are nowhere near as bad as spraypaint, and they settle out of the air pretty quickly. If you're just whipping the airbrush out for 10 minutes at a time it really shouldn't be a problem. If you do an hour worth of work, go spend then next hour in a different room of your house. I do actually own a spray booth, I just haven't found a convenient setup for it yet. That, plus it blocks line of sight for the filming...
I've used the liquitex inks mixed with some plain acrylic medium and it has worked great for glazing and creating other similar effects. The layer is translucent and also works as "glass" or "crystal" effect when used with high gloss medium.
Awesome!! I've been meaning to do some experiments like this, I definitely be giving this a shot. I've got a variety of media around here waiting for some color :-)
Thanks so much. I think I've grown as a painter since finding your channel. As others have said, you inspire less "this is how you should" and really got me into "just play around and find what you like" Thank you, Brent
Hi Derek! Yeah I had a few models that didn't make the cut to show up in this video. Actually I think I experimented with 3 different old rhinos. I think the red rhino may have been "muted pink" from liquitex sprayed in the same way as the other colors. I'll take a look later tonight to see if I can jog my memory on that one :-)
And now, having watched it all the way through, I just want to say GREAT JOB! I'm loving the long-form, easy-delivery style you have. Love the cat. Love the laid back approach and nod to Bob Ross. Just love it! Keep it up!
Goober is changing the game with some of these tips, these inks look like they could be fantastic for my upcoming Squig army, keep up the good work Goober.
It's probably a good habit to clear coat after airbrushing, but these inks actually seemed quite durable. I don't know if it shows up in the video, but they have a hard semi-gloss finish when they dry, and they don't seem to scratch or rub off easily.
This video got me to Sub, love your attitude, love your Bob Ross voice style, makes it enjoyable to listen along. Thanks for the great video. Off to look through your others :D
Super fun! I just airbrushed for the first time this weekend. I'm curious what ratio of thinner:paint:flow improver you'd recommend for trying to use the paints I already have in the air brush (Vallejo game color mostly). I'll check your other vids to see if I can find it :)
hello! I don't thin my inks. I use 30 PSI and an extremely light touch on the trigger, gradually build up those colors without leaving liquid on the surface. good luck! :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies Dude.... I was running it at 20 PSI. After I cranked it up to 30, all graining I experienced was gone. Game changer for me, thanks a lot sir!
gonna be totally honest, that Carnifex with a blue carapace looks really cool. I hope you do finish that one and use the scheme to make a small Tyranid skirmish team at the very least. Love watching your vids and this is the best one I've seen around for airbrushing so far. Honestly, your advice works for more than just miniature painting too. My fiance just doodles characters on her drawing tablet from time to time in order to practice the muscle memory. The practice she has gotten has helped her lineart feel much more alive than it used to be.
@@GoobertownHobbies TH-camr "Like Gunpla" has a quite a few videos on those techniques. I watch car builds and model making videos when I can't sleep. th-cam.com/video/1o-fmO2RwaM/w-d-xo.html
That was interesting to watch o.o I'v watched some of your Goobertown Roulette a few weeks ago as well and well while you give a lot of useful information, I'd love to see some proper video on some basic stuff I've been wanting to get into modeling myself but between paint, tools, and the models, it can get a bit expensive the first time and I'm not even sure the different paint I could use (I kinda would like to avoid the overly expensive dedicated ones from gameworkshop and what not if there is other good options out there) as well as techniques that won't require an airbrush, stuff like that I'm sure I could find some other video on that and maybe you know some, but that'd still be neat to watch from you anyway, great video again :D
Hey, thanks for watching! I agree, I should put together some videos covering the basics, from building the model to choosing tools and paints to making them look great. I love how many new people are interested in the hobby, and I want to make sure that they have some solid advice to get started. Stay tuned! :-)
I have two brushes, Badger Patriot 105 with a larger needle that I use for priming, and Badger Khrome with a smaller needle that I use for finer detail work ( I think I used the khrome for most of this video). I like them both, but I don't have a lot of context. You should totally dive into airbrushing though- its super fun!
Excellent video. It was really nice to see just how vibrant these inks are and how well they cover. I’ve previously heard about using the black and sepia tones from these ranges to make more economical Nuln oil but this was a really interesting look at wider application for these inks.
Thanks! Yeah i'm going to try to get some more use out of these colorful inks soon. I also still need to try the darker inks for making washes and doing weathering, but I've heard good things.
Pretty good representation of what the inks will and won't do! Thanks for the view into your experiments! Can you thin them for more of a wash effect? Where can I find a list of pigments?
Oh hey thanks! Sorry I just saw your question! - You can absolutely thin the inks with something like airbrush thinner if you want. If you click on the colors in this page it tells you what pigment is in each ink. www.liquitex.com/us/products/professional/colors/acrylic-ink/ If you want a comprehensive list of pigments known to mankind, check out this site: www.artiscreation.com/Color_index_names.html#.XTsXdehKiUk Have fun!!! :-)
I just bought my very first of these, the Liquitex Deep Violet at 10:45, and I absolutely love it. This feels like it was MADE for my cheapo Harbor Freight airbrush, and I think it's probably the smoothest-to-use paint of any of the ones I've tried, even more so than the already-very-good Army Painter Air starters and Citadel Contrasts that I've tried. I absolutely intend to buy more of these inks, plus the airs and contrasts. Thank you so much.
Would love to see you do an absolute beginner's tutorial on how to start out with airbrushing. It's been something I've considered, on and off, for a couple of years now, but I've never taken the plunge. Since you seem pretty new to it as well I'd love to see you go through how you started out. Plus your videos are so nice to watch! Keep up the great work.
Hi Brent, I do enjoy watching your videos I may say that A lot but I am a newer mini painter. Well I have not painted models in over 20 years so I have so much to re-learn! This is a rather old video so I imagine you have solved your blue highlight conundrum. If you are still looking for an ink answer, you might try a blue that is transparent, it will layer differently than ink with the white pigment,(like some cerulean) which tends to be opaque. You can also try to use color shift to highlight, go to a violet transparent ink for shifting your blue inks to lighter or darker! Just a splash can change an image drastically so I imagine it is the same for a mini? I hope to see more and learn more from you and your channel. Take care and be safe!
Great spraying. I just wish you had based them O.O unbased but well painted minis kill me every time. Great tutorial. I wanna pop my air brush cherry. Any recommendations for brands? Btw iv never properly consider actual pigments and ingredients as a guide. I may look into this. Very interesting info
I'm a novice at spraying myself, but it's a lot of fun and you can do cool stuff with very little experience. I own two brushes right now, Badger Krome (the one I used in this video) for finer control, and a Badger patriot 105 that has a wider nozzle for priming and basecoating. Don't worry, I completely agree with you about bases. If I finish any of these models I'll give them nice bases :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies thanks for your reply. Any advice on how to do large metallic terrain pieces eg octarius? I'd like to do heavy metallics but $20 leadbelcher undercoat spray is rough😵💫
Ciao Brent!!! I'm totally necroposting here on an older video for a question about using acrylic inks in the airbrush. I'm having some speckling issues with white (undiluted) ink. FYI I use a 0.4 airbrush tip and FW white ink. Watching your video a few times, I thinkit is because either the pressure is too low and/or the ink is too thick for said use. My plan of action would be to: - increase pressure (at about 36-40psi, from the starting 20 I mistakenly used) - increase dilution if needed - training muscle memory to pull the trigger as less as possible. All of the above, to have a smoother zenithal highlight. Is there something else you would suggest to avoid speckling and have smoother ink spray?
Have you tried using any of these inks as SLA resin dyes? I ask because you, as a chemist, could probably talk rings around anyone else as to whether and why they might work or might even be a very bad idea. I'm looking/hoping to dye my SLA resins for the purpose of keeping added paint or ink layers as micro-thin as possible, with "bright white" over black and "aspen gold" over black being the two toughest challenges I face [I'm a Rio (and not Ariana) "Grande Fan"]. It's important, in my applications, to keep finish layers as thin as possible--thin in my case meaning dimensional/thickness terms, rather than as mere, barely detectable "wisps of color". If not, could you perhaps point me in the direction to find answers to my query? Thanks! Fantastic series of videos, BTW. VERY helpful and time-saving both.
Maybe I missed it, but did you find a favorite between the two brands so far? My only experience is with illustration. I know that with the liquatex heavy body paints they us a matting agent to unify the sheen which also increases their opacity. I wonder if they carry that practice over to their inks? Which is essentially a lower viscosity/fluid acrylic. Did one seem to have a better opacity over the other?
Very good questions - I haven't noticed a difference between the brands yet. There is a fair bit of difference in opacity between the different pigments- both brands have some very opaque and very translucent colors. I'll let you know if I find any reason to favor one over the other.
This was super interesting, particularly how the white ink covered a black base coat. That alone is really useful information for the future. Also, I'm envious of that Kroot model at the end. I've been trying to find that one for a while now.
That white ink changes everything doesn't it? :-) I've been very lucky with a few craigslist scores- the gentleman with the Kroot hooked me up with a whole bunch of other cool stuff (like that big eisenhorn and the white dwarf). Anyway, that Kroot is all bagged up and sitting somewhere in my goobertown roulette treasure box, I hope I get to it someday!
I absolutely love those ink bottles, I tried to find used or empty bottles to buy in bulk but couldn’t find any. Anyone have used or empty ink bottles they want to sell for a reasonable price? Liquitex inks cost a fortune in Australia, $100 AUD for the 6 primary colour starter set or $13 AUD per colour 😥 I just realised. It’s actually cheaper to buy the individual 6 colours than buying that set wth! Not to mention Jackson’s Art sells the set for $38 AUD but sadly charges like $65 AUD for shipping to Australia 🥵
Now that you've had some years of practice with the inks. Which do you prefer? Daler Rowney - White, or Liquitex - Titanium White for the zenithal highlighting?
Love your videos! I have a bunch of Golden brand artist acrylics. Can they be used successfully for miniatures, or do I have to get miniatures specific paints? Other than thinning the heavy body acrylics, what is the difference between artist acrylics and model acrylics? THANKS!
Great video - thanks for explaining the translucency/opacity symbols ! I was recently in a local craft store, looking at the inks (they sell the Daler and Rawney ones), it really made my choices so much easier ! One thing I wanted to ask was: have you ever tried pearlescent inks ? I picked a few pearlescent inks (Daler and Rowney), to try out (they essentially look a bit like metallic inks). Haven't tried them yet - but was wondering if perhaps - you had tried them ? And advice regarding those ?
Great informative tutorial video! I may have missed it but what do you use to thin these inks for airbrushing? Do you use a flow medium or a retarder to enhance spraying or extend your drying time? Thanks again for this video. Tom S.
Love the various examples of the colours here. I've been trying something similar, but I can't seem to get my white to spray as smooth as it looks here. Did you thin the white ink with anything, or add any airbrush medium to it? Thanks!
I see videos all the time with minis primed in black. This is the first I've seen with bigger items primed in black. Why black of all things? My question comes from my years painting 1:1 cars, bikes and aircraft, and using grays, red oxides and zinc chromate. Not once have I ever primed any of those black. I tried painting over a black primed kitchen plaque for my wife and it looks like hammered hell. It took multiple coats just to get close, and I said screw it. It's going to get stripped and redone with gray or white primer. So again, why black?
I really appreciate you taking some time to talk about airbrush safety. I feel like thats something that often goes unmentioned. From someone who lives in a small place with two cats, and just purchased my first airbrush, thanks a lot!
Damn, I wish I would of seen this long ago. Those ink examples are really useful. Thanks! All my "Reds" sometimes come out with what I see as orange. My Necromunda Goliaths came out Orange with "Model Air Vallejo Ferrari Red". Its a nice orange and I kept it. Decided I would keep the red color pallet for weapon blood effects. The Army Painters Warpaints "Pure Red" also comes out kind of orange. Their "Dragon Red" and "Vampire Red" are really nice reds.
Whoa, just saw this comment! The Yellow - orange - red range is interesting. With these inks the scarlet came out looking way more orange than red, and there's a yellow-orange color that end up looking solid yellow when it's applied. I have the armypainter warpaints line, and I find the same thing that you do with some of those reds. Just gotta try it out and get experience I guess! :-)
Late to the party here, But what a wonderful video. I do have a few questions, if you would be willing to answer. I've started to play around with some inks on infantry scale, for 40k. But i'm having some difficulty with it coming out smooth. Im using the Daler rowney white ink, straight from its jar, and out my airbrush, at 10-15 psi. It doesn't seem to sit on the surface well, it pools in corners, and leaves the flat surfaces not so nice looking. Any tips?
Great video, especially for someone who’s a beginner. Bringing Bob Ross to airbrushing😊Just got my first airbrush a few days ago and gonna try this out because I already have a few inks. Do you recommend thinning them out at all?
For a warm yellow scheme, start with a "dark pink" base coat, like of the color of Pepto Bismol but a little deeper. Then do zenithal highlighting with white. Finally, spray on a layer of transparent yellow.
@@strangetonic I might give it a shot myself in the next week or two. That sounds like a fun trick, I'm sure I could work that into a video someday :-) I have Stynyylrez dull pink airbrush primer, I might give that a try as the basecoat.
Also, Golden's line of acrylic inks are called "high flow acrylics". The sell a product called "high flow medium", which is basically clear ink. You can use that with inks in the same way that you would mix Citadel washes with Lahmian Medium, i.e. to make their color less intense.
Cracking video. Liked and subbed. As hobbyists we could definitely learn from your "have a go" attitude. The highlights for me (excuse the pun) were; the white ink for pre-shading and that yellow crane is gorgeous. Love your work.
Thanks, and welcome to Goobertown! I probably have more test models around here than finished models. Lots of fun experiments to make videos out of :-)
I look forward to watching your experiments unfold! Hope you don't mind me asking but how do you think the inks would paint on with a manual brush?
@@goblinking2012 I haven't tried yet (more experimenting to do) but Vince Venturella seems to like them! th-cam.com/video/vCOZjijoxcA/w-d-xo.html
Awesome, thanks for sharing dude, I appreciate it. Got a feeling that inks will be my next hobby spend now. ;)
Thank you for this all-encompassing review. It inspired me to test some new things. I never used inks through the airbrush before.
BTW did you ever tried to use Daler Romney’s fluorescent acrylic inks through the airbrush? Does it have the same flow and consistency as usual inks?
The cat footage was unnecessary and added nothing to the video. On the other hand, needs more cat.
Right on!
The Bob Ross of mini painters. So glad I stumbled on this channel , sub'd .
Welcome! I'm very glad that you're here :-)
You should definitely check out the channel Paint on Plastic by Lincoln Wright. :P
@@GurtMcDirt That channel is great! I've been meaning to spend more time watching Lincoln :-)
I think he's an extremely underrated modeler over here. I know he lives in Japan and does a lot of conventions over there though.
I was thinking the same thing. Brent you have that calm "it's a nice little cloud' Bob Ross vibe.
:-)
Awesome work, my friend. For me, the real winners were the smoothness of the liquid white pigment through the airbrush, and the vibrancy of the yellow. Paints that use granulated pigment just take so much work to get right, whereas this seems like it just wants to be sprayed! From one new channel to another, you're making amazing content! :)
Right? This stuff is great!
I've been a subscriber of yours for a little while now and I love it. Both of our channels are having a great month :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies GO TEAM ;)
I subbed you this very moment.
It’s so nice to find a hobby youtuber that is so relaxed, just sharing info and isn’t selling their way as “the correct way” do to things, humble and their content isn’t like watching an energy drink commercial at a monster truck rally. Great stuff!
Hahaha "energy drink commercial at a monster truck rally." I know exactly what you mean.
Thanks for watching! I'm really glad that you're liking the channel, I'll keep making these videos :-)
I wonder who you could be referring to with that last comment.....I mean I'm not an energy drink scientist, but I do have an idea.
@@arinthel Yo Dawg?
@@GoobertownHobbies Dammit Kenny!
I definitely agree, I much prefer his more relaxed approach.
Wow! A+ video man. I've used some of the darker green liquitex ink through an airbrush for doing mossy/grime effects but I never even considered that something like a white ink would work so well. This is so much better than thinning white paint.
Thanks Jeremy! That white ink is a game-changer, have fun with it :-)
Hey Jeremy, I got here from your channel!
@@garfieldwithissuez Me too! Someone recommended this video in the comments section and I actually checked it out. Was not disappointed.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial - Huzzah,, great minds think alike.
I have to admit that I had never thought of airbrushing models with acrylic inks but the results are outstanding. I think the Thalo Blue would work very well as a base color for a Space Marine tank or APC. The Land Raider color is close enough to the Salamander scheme that I would finish it as such. After seeing the results a wash would really set off the color schemes. I will seriously think of using this method on a Rhino model I plan to build. Thanks for sharing this interesting and helpful tutorial.
I'm glad to hear that this is giving you ideas- these inks definitely have a ton of potential. Please let me know if you end up inking that rhino or anything else! :-)
But wich colors did you use to paint the cat? I'm loving the color scheme/pattern there.
I had to come back to this one Brent, a brilliant tour of the ink possibilities.
I've just bought a set of 6 plus BW, so tomorrow my Frostgrave Demons.
Thank you for the great videos.
Thank you so much for this. If nothing else the white for Zenithal is something everyone should switch to. It was so bad for me I always have a sponge moistened with airbrush cleaner so when the tip dry/clog happens every 30-45 sec using white primer and clean and be back in business relatively quickly (as quick as you can be having to do something so often that isn't your paint job.) Thanks again!
You bet! Yeah I was pretty stoked about that white ink :-) Have fun with it!
Your calm demeanor and methodical approach to painting minis makes me glad you're into this hobby and not murder.
Oh yeah, this hobby helps keep my mind off of things :-)
I was just sitting there procrastinating today, but this video really put me in the mood to some painting! got the whole night ahead of me now :)
thanks for making such awesome videos!
Looking to get an airbrush for terrain projects. Great video!
This channel has everything l need. Advice, music, cats, and the channel name puts a smile on me. SUBBED
Thank you for your video using the inks. For the army painter paints ( I am sure you did this ) but when you first open the paint to remove the excess medium they put in the bottle for shelf life. If you don’t and just mix the paint it will end up super splotchy. If you already have opened and let it stand a couple of days the extra medium will separate and will be able to remove some of it. I have had good luck with thin orc blood ( 2 coats coverage over black primer ) I like it for base of demon skin
Bob Ross got reincarnated as a miniatures painter?! Great video, love your voice and style thanks :-)
Thanks for the kind words! I'll keep making content like this :-)
if you did a amazon associate account for your youtube, you could put links in the description for the paints you use and make $$$ off of it. Just a suggestion great video.
Thanks! You're right I should really get that set up. I've been surprised by the amount of views I'm getting recently, I gotta hurry up and get GoobertownHobbies.com opperational with some affiliate links to useful supplies up there. :-)
Goobs, faster please! I started airbrushing because of you and now I want to support you!
Some of yellow and red acrylic pigments are dangerous to airbrush. Be careful with your health.
Thanks for pointing this out! I should have mentioned it. This is one reason why I like having the pigments listed on the bottle :-) It's the heavy metal pigments that I pay the most attention to, and one of the yellows WAS cadmium yellow. I looked into it and that particular metal complex isn't anywhere near as dangerous as some of the others. The reds I used were organic molecules (nahpthols and pyrroles), which aren't too worrisome.
Thanks again for mentioning this, I'll put some safety info in the next video I make about pigments or airbrushing!
Goobertown Hobbies thanks for the info, guys. It’s always good to know stuff like that.
@@annaibanez2499 absolutely!
That's why you always wear a mask with carbon filters. No vapours of particles inhaled. Should be standard practice when working with any spray paints or solvents. Just like wearing gloves.
These videos are such a joy to watch. I love your risk taking approach combined with your calm manner in the videos. Just gives the most happy chilled vibes when viewing. Thanks for making these. The pigment discussions are also interesting and educational for me. Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks Johnny, I'm glad that you like watching this stuff! I appreciate the feedback, I'm aiming for calm and relaxing without being too boring :-) More of this stuff is in the pipeline!
interesting you base paint with inks, I use the FW Artist inks for lifting the yellows and whites during highlighting which are usually the problematic acrylic colours.
That sounds like a great technique, I'll definitely keep that in mind when working with yellow and white!
That primary blue ink is a lie lol. The pigment Primary Blue 15 is right but essentially you have the ink suspended with Primary White 6 which turns it into a paint.
I'm thinking it'd be better to buy a inkjet cyan refill to get a true tint-only PB15 that will mix with anything else, including white to get their primary blue color lol. Notice that all the inks on the FW website chart that have PW6 in them have less transparency. If you're trying to tint a zenithal (which looks sweet) these opaques are less up for the job. As an aside, is that a Badger patriot airbrush are you using in this video? It puts down spray like a skunk trying to save it's life compared to my measly spray cone lol. Thanks for all you do Brent. This was really helpful to see.
I think you can adjust those blues with mixing some white ink and some medium / transparent medium for the opaque inks?
you hold your airbrush in a very unusual way. I may have to try that and see if I can get more control with my thumb. :)
I'm getting some feedback that thumb method might be the wrong way :-) Now I need to try using my index finger!
@@GoobertownHobbies Do what is comfortable there is no right and wrong when it comes to art. Can you imagine if they told Michael Angelo he was holding is chisel wrong?
@@BryanNWright hehe, thanks for the support!
I work pretty much only with inks during basecoating. Favorite stuff. One thing I love is if you've got ink left in the cup and you want to go back and pick out details like the tops of shoulders, you can mix a drop or two of white into your cup and mix it in there before going back. Prevents you from wasting ink you overestimated needing.
COOL ! Keep trying .
Did you use it straight from the bottle? I'm using 0.5mm at 15psi with a regulator. Seriously outstanding..
Yep, straight out of the bottle flows great and doesn't clog (I did at least rinse a bit between colors). I was using 0.2 mm and 30 PSI, but I really don't know what is ideal. Have fun! It's super easy to make this effect look cool :-)
Hi, blue is actually one of the easiest to highlight just mix more and more white in
That makes sense. I'm just so enamored by the way that green highlights up to yellow that I was wondering if blue could do anything exciting like that :-)
Beautiful. What makes your vids so engaging is your modesty and your willingness to make mistakes. An inspiration, most of all for we perfectionists, who need to get out of our way more often and just have some fun.
Thanks for watching Mark! Yep, the only way to learn is to try new things and see what happens :-) I definitely stumbled on some fun ideas in this video that I'll use "for real" eventually.
YES THIS RIGHT HERE! Agree fully.
I'm a fine artist and I use acrylic inks to paint on canvases. I don't paint models but I think yours are very cool. (I used to paint my then-husband's little D&D metal figurines, especially to make scrolls look antique, but with a brush, not an airbrush.) What I'm trying to find out which is "the best" acrylic ink, Liquitex or Daler Rowney. Do you have a preference?
Thanks for uploading, this is really cool.
Finally another excellent video! The pigments in the paint are crazy. Which airbrush do you use?
Thanks! This was done with a Badger Krome .2 mm needle size.
11:06 Oi! I see what you glued onto that SoB rhino!!!! That's a BattleFleet Gothic Imperial Fighter bay
WHOA! I didn't know that, this particular model is one that I got from ebay :-) Thanks for the identify!
Holy crap those muted inks on the Dark Eldar / Drukhari are gorgeous!!!!!! Do you still have those models? I would purchase from you if youd were interested!
thanks! I still have some of them, but they're not for sale... I keep almost everything that I paint because they always end up coming handy for making future videos... eventually :-) I totally believe in you though, if you have some extra cash you should buy an airbrush and some inks and give it a try!! :-)
Dude, yellow over brown looks gross, nevermind black. You'll want gray they white.
Someone in the comments told me to try yellow over pink+white. It sounds insane, but it's my new favorite thing. I'll show it off in a video one of these days!
Very nice work. Did you use straight ink or thinned, and if so what thinner would you recommend and what percentage? Cheers.
Thanks! All of these experiments were with ink straight from the bottle. If I find some cool effects with thinned inks I'll do a video on that too!
I'm digging that phthalo green
Looking forward to the series on pigment!
This was a Fun video to watch.
I'm looking forward to talking about pigments too :-) Once I've researched the topic enough to do the topic justice I'll start putting those out.
I just subbed to your channel I really like your video. your humor is great keep it up.
Thanks! Welcome aboard :-)
Hey! What setup are you painting on? I was thinking of setting up an airbrush booth in my home, but was wondering about ventilation. If you're not using a booth, how are you handling the fumes?
I do have a HEPA filter running full blast just offscreen. This one I think: th-cam.com/video/HRmkY8QyHO0/w-d-xo.html For longer projects I often wear a 3m breathing mask.
I don't want to encourage anyone to take risks with their health, but the fumes are nowhere near as bad as spraypaint, and they settle out of the air pretty quickly. If you're just whipping the airbrush out for 10 minutes at a time it really shouldn't be a problem. If you do an hour worth of work, go spend then next hour in a different room of your house.
I do actually own a spray booth, I just haven't found a convenient setup for it yet. That, plus it blocks line of sight for the filming...
did you thin the paints at all?
nope! you could, but I normally don't :-)
Yellow over brown eh? I was about to start my Imperial Fist army and I was planning on priming in grey, but I will try brown instead.
Yeah I like to use brown or tan or white. Do a couple of test models and see what works for you!
I've used the liquitex inks mixed with some plain acrylic medium and it has worked great for glazing and creating other similar effects. The layer is translucent and also works as "glass" or "crystal" effect when used with high gloss medium.
Awesome!! I've been meaning to do some experiments like this, I definitely be giving this a shot. I've got a variety of media around here waiting for some color :-)
Nice idea, thanks.
Treat yo self!!
Thanks so much. I think I've grown as a painter since finding your channel. As others have said, you inspire less "this is how you should" and really got me into "just play around and find what you like"
Thank you, Brent
Excellent video. Therapeutic to watch
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the feedback, I'll keep making videos like this :-)
Do you need to thin the inks down at all through an airbrush or are they ready to shoot straight out of the jar? What PSI were you using?
No thinning needed! I used 30 PSI.
Great video! Thanks so much!
Right on! Thanks for watching :-)
Excellent video I think I might try this method of painting for my model car builds. Might be very interesting...................................Ken
It looks like the rhino changed from blue to a red color. What did you use to get the deep red color?
Hi Derek! Yeah I had a few models that didn't make the cut to show up in this video. Actually I think I experimented with 3 different old rhinos. I think the red rhino may have been "muted pink" from liquitex sprayed in the same way as the other colors. I'll take a look later tonight to see if I can jog my memory on that one :-)
Woohoo! Glad to see you crank out another high quality video!
And now, having watched it all the way through, I just want to say GREAT JOB! I'm loving the long-form, easy-delivery style you have. Love the cat. Love the laid back approach and nod to Bob Ross. Just love it! Keep it up!
Thanks for checking it out! and thanks for the encouragement :-)
I just picked up some winsor and Newton inks for glazing but I will definitely pick up more now I've seen this
Excellent!! Have fun :-)
Goober is changing the game with some of these tips, these inks look like they could be fantastic for my upcoming Squig army, keep up the good work Goober.
Ooooh, squigs would look great in some of these colors. Please let us know when you get some pictures of your squigs!
Great video! Helped me decide to get a set of the liquitex inks.
it's fun stuff!!! :-)
I'm a newbie to airbrushing, especially with inks. Do you clear coat your models afterwards?
It's probably a good habit to clear coat after airbrushing, but these inks actually seemed quite durable. I don't know if it shows up in the video, but they have a hard semi-gloss finish when they dry, and they don't seem to scratch or rub off easily.
@@GoobertownHobbies Thanks for answering me! I'll give it a try.
This video got me to Sub, love your attitude, love your Bob Ross voice style, makes it enjoyable to listen along. Thanks for the great video. Off to look through your others :D
Welcome! I'm glad that you're here. I'll try to keep making stuff with that relaxing vibe :-)
Super fun! I just airbrushed for the first time this weekend. I'm curious what ratio of thinner:paint:flow improver you'd recommend for trying to use the paints I already have in the air brush (Vallejo game color mostly). I'll check your other vids to see if I can find it :)
Hi mate,
I am having hard time using liquitex ink. I cannot find decent pressure, so my question is did you thin liquitex white prior the use?
hello! I don't thin my inks. I use 30 PSI and an extremely light touch on the trigger, gradually build up those colors without leaving liquid on the surface. good luck! :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies Dude.... I was running it at 20 PSI. After I cranked it up to 30, all graining I experienced was gone. Game changer for me, thanks a lot sir!
gonna be totally honest, that Carnifex with a blue carapace looks really cool. I hope you do finish that one and use the scheme to make a small Tyranid skirmish team at the very least. Love watching your vids and this is the best one I've seen around for airbrushing so far.
Honestly, your advice works for more than just miniature painting too. My fiance just doodles characters on her drawing tablet from time to time in order to practice the muscle memory. The practice she has gotten has helped her lineart feel much more alive than it used to be.
White base coats mute bright colors you should apply your shading after with Model Markers You will get less of a hazy colors and crisper details.
Model Markers eh? Thanks for the tip! I don't know if I've seen this technique before, do you know of any good tutorials?
@@GoobertownHobbies TH-camr "Like Gunpla" has a quite a few videos on those techniques. I watch car builds and model making videos when I can't sleep. th-cam.com/video/1o-fmO2RwaM/w-d-xo.html
you are really channeling Bob Ross here. Great and inspiring vid.
Thanks!! That's high praise :-) I'll try to keep making stuff with this vibe.
Dr goobertown: I like to use light grays to highlight blues.
And have had any success mixing inks?
That was interesting to watch o.o
I'v watched some of your Goobertown Roulette a few weeks ago as well and well while you give a lot of useful information, I'd love to see some proper video on some basic stuff
I've been wanting to get into modeling myself but between paint, tools, and the models, it can get a bit expensive the first time and I'm not even sure the different paint I could use (I kinda would like to avoid the overly expensive dedicated ones from gameworkshop and what not if there is other good options out there) as well as techniques that won't require an airbrush, stuff like that
I'm sure I could find some other video on that and maybe you know some, but that'd still be neat to watch from you
anyway, great video again :D
Hey, thanks for watching! I agree, I should put together some videos covering the basics, from building the model to choosing tools and paints to making them look great. I love how many new people are interested in the hobby, and I want to make sure that they have some solid advice to get started. Stay tuned! :-)
Did you have to thin the inks at all and what pressure did you shoot these at?
No thinning at all! They're great right out of the bottle. I was using a pressure of 30 psi.
great video! just a quick question do you have to thin the ink in any way? or is it sprayed straight out of the bottle ?
thanks
These were sprayed straight from the bottle, but you could certainly thin it if you wanted to! :-)
Would you mind if you could tell me what air brush you used as I was thinking of getting one but I am not sure which would be best.
Great vid btw.
I have two brushes, Badger Patriot 105 with a larger needle that I use for priming, and Badger Khrome with a smaller needle that I use for finer detail work ( I think I used the khrome for most of this video). I like them both, but I don't have a lot of context. You should totally dive into airbrushing though- its super fun!
Why did you not introduce the kitty! you monster
Oh yeah, that's Snuffles. She and her orange friend Gordon wander through a lot of shots on this channel. :-)
I really need to push myself my airbrush. This has been very inspiring, thank you.
I'm glad to hear that! I'm still learning the airbrush myself. Have fun airbrushing!!! :-)
What?? Cat intros and cat outros? It must be christmas! Keep up the good work dude, great vid!
:-) They get in the way just enough for some fun footage. I'm glad you liked the video!
Hey man, just liked and subscribed. Really loved your attitude towards the hobby and that you just had some fun. Keep up the good work!
Welcome! I'm glad you're here. More videos like this are under construction :-)
Would grey be a good highlight for blue perhaps?
Excellent video. It was really nice to see just how vibrant these inks are and how well they cover. I’ve previously heard about using the black and sepia tones from these ranges to make more economical Nuln oil but this was a really interesting look at wider application for these inks.
Thanks! Yeah i'm going to try to get some more use out of these colorful inks soon. I also still need to try the darker inks for making washes and doing weathering, but I've heard good things.
Pretty good representation of what the inks will and won't do! Thanks for the view into your experiments! Can you thin them for more of a wash effect? Where can I find a list of pigments?
Oh hey thanks! Sorry I just saw your question! - You can absolutely thin the inks with something like airbrush thinner if you want. If you click on the colors in this page it tells you what pigment is in each ink. www.liquitex.com/us/products/professional/colors/acrylic-ink/
If you want a comprehensive list of pigments known to mankind, check out this site: www.artiscreation.com/Color_index_names.html#.XTsXdehKiUk
Have fun!!! :-)
I plan on painting a white Tau army and have been experimenting with different recipes of off-whites. Definitely going to give white ink a try now.
Cool! I didn't give the gray ink (liquitex neutral gray) much screen time, but that might be worth looking into for your project as well.
I just bought my very first of these, the Liquitex Deep Violet at 10:45, and I absolutely love it. This feels like it was MADE for my cheapo Harbor Freight airbrush, and I think it's probably the smoothest-to-use paint of any of the ones I've tried, even more so than the already-very-good Army Painter Air starters and Citadel Contrasts that I've tried. I absolutely intend to buy more of these inks, plus the airs and contrasts. Thank you so much.
Would love to see you do an absolute beginner's tutorial on how to start out with airbrushing. It's been something I've considered, on and off, for a couple of years now, but I've never taken the plunge. Since you seem pretty new to it as well I'd love to see you go through how you started out. Plus your videos are so nice to watch! Keep up the great work.
Thanks james! Yeah I may work on that someday, I feel like I need to learn just a little bit more first :-)
Hi Brent, I do enjoy watching your videos I may say that A lot but I am a newer mini painter. Well I have not painted models in over 20 years so I have so much to re-learn! This is a rather old video so I imagine you have solved your blue highlight conundrum. If you are still looking for an ink answer, you might try a blue that is transparent, it will layer differently than ink with the white pigment,(like some cerulean) which tends to be opaque. You can also try to use color shift to highlight, go to a violet transparent ink for shifting your blue inks to lighter or darker! Just a splash can change an image drastically so I imagine it is the same for a mini? I hope to see more and learn more from you and your channel. Take care and be safe!
I would be tempted to paint my (3D printed) electronic enclosures/boxes like this... would certainly improve their look... nice video by the way...
Great spraying. I just wish you had based them O.O unbased but well painted minis kill me every time. Great tutorial. I wanna pop my air brush cherry. Any recommendations for brands?
Btw iv never properly consider actual pigments and ingredients as a guide. I may look into this. Very interesting info
I'm a novice at spraying myself, but it's a lot of fun and you can do cool stuff with very little experience. I own two brushes right now, Badger Krome (the one I used in this video) for finer control, and a Badger patriot 105 that has a wider nozzle for priming and basecoating.
Don't worry, I completely agree with you about bases. If I finish any of these models I'll give them nice bases :-)
Thanks buddy, again great video. Very clear and concise.
9:02 the Dark eldar vehicles especially would look awesome with the scheme. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Yeah, that one really jumped out didn't it! Believe me, I'm thinking about it :-)
Interesting video. I’m going to steal using white ink to zenithal prime minis with an airbrush. Thanks!
I'm curious if you've tried metallic inks?
a couple from liquitex, yep. They're... OK. Not great, but OK
@@GoobertownHobbies thanks for your reply.
Any advice on how to do large metallic terrain pieces eg octarius? I'd like to do heavy metallics but $20 leadbelcher undercoat spray is rough😵💫
Ciao Brent!!! I'm totally necroposting here on an older video for a question about using acrylic inks in the airbrush. I'm having some speckling issues with white (undiluted) ink. FYI I use a 0.4 airbrush tip and FW white ink.
Watching your video a few times, I thinkit is because either the pressure is too low and/or the ink is too thick for said use.
My plan of action would be to:
- increase pressure (at about 36-40psi, from the starting 20 I mistakenly used)
- increase dilution if needed
- training muscle memory to pull the trigger as less as possible.
All of the above, to have a smoother zenithal highlight. Is there something else you would suggest to avoid speckling and have smoother ink spray?
Have you tried using any of these inks as SLA resin dyes? I ask because you, as a chemist, could probably talk rings around anyone else as to whether and why they might work or might even be a very bad idea. I'm looking/hoping to dye my SLA resins for the purpose of keeping added paint or ink layers as micro-thin as possible, with "bright white" over black and "aspen gold" over black being the two toughest challenges I face [I'm a Rio (and not Ariana) "Grande Fan"].
It's important, in my applications, to keep finish layers as thin as possible--thin in my case meaning dimensional/thickness terms, rather than as mere, barely detectable "wisps of color".
If not, could you perhaps point me in the direction to find answers to my query? Thanks!
Fantastic series of videos, BTW. VERY helpful and time-saving both.
Maybe I missed it, but did you find a favorite between the two brands so far?
My only experience is with illustration. I know that with the liquatex heavy body paints they us a matting agent to unify the sheen which also increases their opacity.
I wonder if they carry that practice over to their inks? Which is essentially a lower viscosity/fluid acrylic.
Did one seem to have a better opacity over the other?
Very good questions - I haven't noticed a difference between the brands yet. There is a fair bit of difference in opacity between the different pigments- both brands have some very opaque and very translucent colors. I'll let you know if I find any reason to favor one over the other.
This was super interesting, particularly how the white ink covered a black base coat. That alone is really useful information for the future. Also, I'm envious of that Kroot model at the end. I've been trying to find that one for a while now.
That white ink changes everything doesn't it? :-) I've been very lucky with a few craigslist scores- the gentleman with the Kroot hooked me up with a whole bunch of other cool stuff (like that big eisenhorn and the white dwarf). Anyway, that Kroot is all bagged up and sitting somewhere in my goobertown roulette treasure box, I hope I get to it someday!
I absolutely love those ink bottles, I tried to find used or empty bottles to buy in bulk but couldn’t find any. Anyone have used or empty ink bottles they want to sell for a reasonable price? Liquitex inks cost a fortune in Australia, $100 AUD for the 6 primary colour starter set or $13 AUD per colour 😥 I just realised. It’s actually cheaper to buy the individual 6 colours than buying that set wth! Not to mention Jackson’s Art sells the set for $38 AUD but sadly charges like $65 AUD for shipping to Australia 🥵
Now that you've had some years of practice with the inks. Which do you prefer? Daler Rowney - White, or Liquitex - Titanium White for the zenithal highlighting?
Love your videos! I have a bunch of Golden brand artist acrylics. Can they be used successfully for miniatures, or do I have to get miniatures specific paints? Other than thinning the heavy body acrylics, what is the difference between artist acrylics and model acrylics? THANKS!
Great video - thanks for explaining the translucency/opacity symbols ! I was recently in a local craft store, looking at the inks (they sell the Daler and Rawney ones), it really made my choices so much easier ! One thing I wanted to ask was: have you ever tried pearlescent inks ? I picked a few pearlescent inks (Daler and Rowney), to try out (they essentially look a bit like metallic inks). Haven't tried them yet - but was wondering if perhaps - you had tried them ? And advice regarding those ?
Great informative tutorial video! I may have missed it but what do you use to thin these inks for airbrushing? Do you use a flow medium or a retarder to enhance spraying or extend your drying time? Thanks again for this video.
Tom S.
Love the various examples of the colours here. I've been trying something similar, but I can't seem to get my white to spray as smooth as it looks here. Did you thin the white ink with anything, or add any airbrush medium to it? Thanks!
I see videos all the time with minis primed in black. This is the first I've seen with bigger items primed in black. Why black of all things? My question comes from my years painting 1:1 cars, bikes and aircraft, and using grays, red oxides and zinc chromate. Not once have I ever primed any of those black. I tried painting over a black primed kitchen plaque for my wife and it looks like hammered hell. It took multiple coats just to get close, and I said screw it. It's going to get stripped and redone with gray or white primer. So again, why black?
Over the past 2 months ive bought most of the Daler Rowney FW range. Great for making custom glazes and use in colouring illustrations.
I really appreciate you taking some time to talk about airbrush safety. I feel like thats something that often goes unmentioned. From someone who lives in a small place with two cats, and just purchased my first airbrush, thanks a lot!
Damn, I wish I would of seen this long ago. Those ink examples are really useful. Thanks!
All my "Reds" sometimes come out with what I see as orange. My Necromunda Goliaths came out Orange with "Model Air Vallejo Ferrari Red". Its a nice orange and I kept it. Decided I would keep the red color pallet for weapon blood effects.
The Army Painters Warpaints "Pure Red" also comes out kind of orange. Their "Dragon Red" and "Vampire Red" are really nice reds.
Whoa, just saw this comment! The Yellow - orange - red range is interesting. With these inks the scarlet came out looking way more orange than red, and there's a yellow-orange color that end up looking solid yellow when it's applied. I have the armypainter warpaints line, and I find the same thing that you do with some of those reds. Just gotta try it out and get experience I guess! :-)
Fantastic video! Did you thin the inks at all? I’m really digging this black/white/transparent ink approach.
Hey Brent! What PSI do you use when airbrushing Liquitex inks? Thanks.
Late to the party here, But what a wonderful video. I do have a few questions, if you would be willing to answer. I've started to play around with some inks on infantry scale, for 40k. But i'm having some difficulty with it coming out smooth. Im using the Daler rowney white ink, straight from its jar, and out my airbrush, at 10-15 psi. It doesn't seem to sit on the surface well, it pools in corners, and leaves the flat surfaces not so nice looking. Any tips?
Have a lot of inks lying around which I can now use. Inspirational.
Great video, especially for someone who’s a beginner. Bringing Bob Ross to airbrushing😊Just got my first airbrush a few days ago and gonna try this out because I already have a few inks. Do you recommend thinning them out at all?
For a warm yellow scheme, start with a "dark pink" base coat, like of the color of Pepto Bismol but a little deeper. Then do zenithal highlighting with white. Finally, spray on a layer of transparent yellow.
Interesting! I've never heard of this before, I really want to try it. Do you have a picture or a video to check out?
I don't have photos that show each step, but I could get started on a sample miniature for that purpose.
@@strangetonic I might give it a shot myself in the next week or two. That sounds like a fun trick, I'm sure I could work that into a video someday :-) I have Stynyylrez dull pink airbrush primer, I might give that a try as the basecoat.
@@GoobertownHobbies I Googled "Stynyylrez dull pink", and on my screen it looks like the perfect "dark Pepto Bismol" color.
Also, Golden's line of acrylic inks are called "high flow acrylics". The sell a product called "high flow medium", which is basically clear ink. You can use that with inks in the same way that you would mix Citadel washes with Lahmian Medium, i.e. to make their color less intense.