Thanks mate, it may have been simple, but rather valuable to me. First Brew day tomorrow .. I have a bag of grain, then started scratching my head about water. This vid made it really really clear .. Thanks Again.
Its a very basic explanation but its how it works, you may have to test your boil off and dead space, and your grain absorption will probably be about .8 ish per kilo, but its a great place to start. Cheers mate!
Have brewed for years with kits but i am now going All Grain (not sure why it has taken me so long!). Have spent a small fortune at Kegland and my BrewZilla 65l was delivered yesterday so anxious to give it a go. Found this video really good and the calculation is so obvious when you know and i appreciate that with experience you will be able to tweak it. I have BeerSmith3 and I am looking at so many videos that my head is spinning - there is a huge learning curve but your many great videos is straightening out the road for me!
G'day Gash - your vids convinced me to get a RoboBrew. First brew today, and suffice to say i've been stalking your vids during the brew to help me stay on track. Much appreciated - thank you.
A nice simple explanation to work out quantities. I always forget to include the dead space on the bottom of the boil pot and just end up pouring as much as I can into the FV. Surely all the trub will sink to the bottom of the FV by the end of fermentation. Cheers for another great video.
No worries mate, greatly simplified but its fairly accurate, I'll just mention 1kg to 1L is usually for a regular mash tun, for brew in a bag or robobrew its usually somewhere between .6 and .7 of a litre to a kg, because you're lifting it up it drains more. I kept it at the basic 1L to 1 Kg for simplicity and keep the maths easy so people concentrated more on the concept and how it all works. Cheers mate!
I've been watching a few of your videos lately Gash. they are very helpful and the way you simplified this video made me buy a grainfather - an upgrade from BIAB. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your videos mate. You have a great way of explaining things. You have with the help of your videos made me start to get more creative. If will be following your hopped pale ale tonight and will in the near future start all graining. Still working on the wife about a spare fridge and kegging. Cheers
+Matthew Leonard Thats great to hear mate! I just left empty bottles every where, pretty soon the wife was completely over it and wanted me to keg :) Cheers!
Great advice and run through with the volume numbers mate. Has taught me quickly about grain vessel brewing. Cheers & hope to brew with one myself soon!
Hi, Installed a sight-glass on my Gen 3, robobrew. As I scribe the first gallon mark on my sight-glass do I include the dead space water to make up the first gallon mark then go from there? Thx, Thom
Can you tell CraigTube to do what everyone else has done and move to all grain,this obsession he has with Coopers Syrup kits is ridiculous, he is the only brewer still doing the things
Was wondering if you’d be kind enough to convert that to US measurements. I was racking my brain last night trying to convert your numbers and was getting different results.
A useful video Gash. The last couple of brews on my Brewzilla, I've found my OG to be under what beersmith says. As you mentioned, I think I need to adjust the boil off rate to suit my system. Currently it is 4.3. How do I test the boil off rate, is it as simple as accurately measuring 10 L of water, and boiling for 15 min, then multiplying by 4?
Thats not going to be very accurate. What you would do is boil full amount for 60mins, of course a pain in the arse. What happens is you lose some coming up to boil, so it doesnt really work 4x a 15min boil and 10L is going to boil differently to 30L. To save that trouble next batch just really take notice of where levels are from preboil to post boil. If you're worried about numbers in your next batch maybe lower efficiency to match the actual eff you've been getting. You can always put it up next batch. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Thanks for the reply and no worries, I'll keep a closer eye on the boil off rate next brew. I think I need to be more accurate with measuring my water volumes as well. I remember you mentioning in a previous vid about a scientific jug you had being way off. It's just another thing I need to dial in as I am too trusting of the graduations on my gear.
Yes thats true too, its a very organic process, boil off can vary from brew to brew, volumes mean a lot. If a measuring jug is just 200ml out, by the time you get to the 35L or more you need for a brew, that 200ml can add up to a lot. It's all about fine tuning for your set up, nothing will be perfect. The brewers who say its perfect every time are liars.. Theres ways to adjust the brewing process, by measuring the whole way through and extending boils, or adding extra sugars, all work. Just depends which way you want to go. Don't get caught up with efficiency numbers, what matters is consistency. The eff numbers vary so differently between setups, my 3V had a much lower eff, but thats because you lose more in the mash tun, and just 2 litres in the mash tun makes a massive difference, but thankfully not to the taste, just that you may have to use 500g more grain.... its really nothing.. but people get caught up on the numbers, kinda ridiculous. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork yeah agreed mate, and you are right, I don't really care about high efficiency, I'm just after consistency. Thanks for the detailed replies.
Hey Gash was wondering cost wise how much in Aus to do an average 19 litre keg of Ale all grain compared to say a coopers kit and how many hours for your brew day. Great vid cheers Gash.
g'day. grain about $15 if you are buying in bulk or about 20-25 if buying each time. hops varies from 5-15 and yeast $6-12. and maybe $1 for whirlfloc. So anywhere from $26 to $55. usually. Depending on the beer. Cheers!
Hey Gash loving your channel, Just wondering if you could help, I'm a AG noob who just got a brewzilla after brewing extract for a couple of years and was wondering if this formula works for it. Im going to do a 40L batch with an 8.6 kilo grain bill but the recipe said to mash in with 22L and sparge with 32L but 22L doesnt seem like not enough. I haven't worked out the dead space or boil off yet but if they were both 4L for example this formula would work out to be 40L for mash and 16.6L for sparge. Am i better off ditching the volumes on the recipe and going with your formula? Im having trouble finding info regarding the brewzilla as the 35L Robobrew seems to be more popular. Cheers Jim
@@willisgilles6279 The false bottom or are you talking about the the actual mash pipe? I've never seen a false bottom ever totally block, if that's the case I'd be looking your crush, Is it very fine or double crushed? I've thrown massive amounts of hops and grains at it and its never blocked, maybe try a quick stir at the end of boil, a whirlpool, to centre the trub. If its the mash pipe ditch the fine screen totally and again look at your crush. Cheers!
Interestingly my Robobrew has 1.75L of dead space. I have the newer version with the volume markers on the side and clip down lid. I wonder if they lowered the tap?
+antdinham umm that could or will the eff%s umm I'll have a look at it tomorrow and play around with some numbers.. its mucking around with tun dead space and chiller loss numbers, both these affect the eff%s and need tweaking to get everything right, because they'll change mash eff, which is what we dont want.
+Gash Slugg Thanks! I'm not sure what you mean when you say you can't alter the efficiency directly? I can type in any value for brewhouse efficiency I like? I'm running version 2.2.12.
Heya Gash can you help me with some advice re a 7.5kg grain bill - was going to do a reiterated mash, and have been trying to figure out the two strike/sparge volumes - or whether you think a 35l Robobrew would handle it in one!
I think you will squeeze it in, it'll be tight, and you'll have to work it, as in might have to stir etc to keep flow going, just be becareful with strike amount, maybe start with 19l or maybe 20l just see how it goes, reckon you may need to add more, a litre or two but better off starring with too little, than overflowing. Cheers
If you're really worried maybe remove centre pipe and put a grain bag in the mash pipe so you can fill it past the handle holes.. just another option probably not needed.
Umm not exactly sure what you mean, but if its because of more boil off yeah you will have a stronger beer, but if it was because of other reasons it may not. Cheers Jason
Gash Slugg Brewing sorry if I were to use the same ingredients and had 1 litre less wort before boil will the abv be higher because I have less water in the robobrew brew. Sorry mate it’s hard for me to explain😂😂
Gash Slugg Brewing hi mate I’ve been looking at the Grainfather.com and they have a water mash sparge calculator is it possible to use this for the robobrew or is it completely different?
This method is using basic numbers to simplify the maths for beginners, but the method is right, you need to work out your boil off, your dead spaces and your grain absorption, robobrew grain absorption with be something like .6 - .9 L per kg, each grain is slightly different. Your boil off will be different depending on your power supply and extension leads etc. Dead space in the newer V2 and V3 is nearly nothing maybe a litre. Cheers!
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Thanks mate, it may have been simple, but rather valuable to me. First Brew day tomorrow .. I have a bag of grain, then started scratching my head about water. This vid made it really really clear ..
Thanks Again.
Cheers mate, thanks for watching!
Thanks so much mate, a really straight forward and clear explanation. I've just had my 35 lt Brewzilla delivered and can't wait to give it a go.
Its a very basic explanation but its how it works, you may have to test your boil off and dead space, and your grain absorption will probably be about .8 ish per kilo, but its a great place to start. Cheers mate!
Have brewed for years with kits but i am now going All Grain (not sure why it has taken me so long!). Have spent a small fortune at Kegland and my BrewZilla 65l was delivered yesterday so anxious to give it a go. Found this video really good and the calculation is so obvious when you know and i appreciate that with experience you will be able to tweak it. I have BeerSmith3 and I am looking at so many videos that my head is spinning - there is a huge learning curve but your many great videos is straightening out the road for me!
G'day Gash - your vids convinced me to get a RoboBrew. First brew today, and suffice to say i've been stalking your vids during the brew to help me stay on track. Much appreciated - thank you.
+OzNick81P Cheers mate, glad I could help and thanks for watching!
A nice simple explanation to work out quantities. I always forget to include the dead space on the bottom of the boil pot and just end up pouring as much as I can into the FV. Surely all the trub will sink to the bottom of the FV by the end of fermentation. Cheers for another great video.
Great, visual description. Common sense instruction. Thanks so much GS.
No worries mate, greatly simplified but its fairly accurate, I'll just mention 1kg to 1L is usually for a regular mash tun, for brew in a bag or robobrew its usually somewhere between .6 and .7 of a litre to a kg, because you're lifting it up it drains more. I kept it at the basic 1L to 1 Kg for simplicity and keep the maths easy so people concentrated more on the concept and how it all works. Cheers mate!
I've been watching a few of your videos lately Gash. they are very helpful and the way you simplified this video made me buy a grainfather - an upgrade from BIAB. Keep up the good work!
Cheers mate! and thanks for watching!
Thanks for your videos mate. You have a great way of explaining things. You have with the help of your videos made me start to get more creative. If will be following your hopped pale ale tonight and will in the near future start all graining. Still working on the wife about a spare fridge and kegging.
Cheers
+Matthew Leonard Thats great to hear mate! I just left empty bottles every where, pretty soon the wife was completely over it and wanted me to keg :) Cheers!
I will start today slowly pepering the house with bottles. F'N great idea
Great advice and run through with the volume numbers mate. Has taught me quickly about grain vessel brewing. Cheers & hope to brew with one myself soon!
Apparently the new models are different with dead space etc but same principles apply, Cheers Nick!
Great topic, Gash. I seem to always forget about the dead space and how much it actually cost me. Cheers, Man!
+Chris Meek Cheers mate , thanks for watchin!
Thanks Gash,I'll see how that works out when I do a brew with the Grainfather 🍻
+Keith Russell Good luck! Cheers!
Nice starting point Gash, sometimes easy to overlook things like "dead space"👍🏻.
+Ogdenstormcrow Cheers mate!
Cheers for this, helps a lot! Now to brew...
Callum M it's a rough guideline but will get you headed in the right direction Cheers mate!
Thanks for this bud! 👍🏻
Does the 1kg to 1l apply for the 3.1.1🍻🍻
Gash ,love your vids. how about doing a 1 gallon choc stout for your next vid :) , Bit of a challenge :)
I'll try mate! Been really busy, but hopefully going to do some more videos very soon! Thanks for watching, Cheers mate!
Hi, Installed a sight-glass on my Gen 3, robobrew. As I scribe the first gallon mark on my sight-glass do I include the dead space water to make up the first gallon mark then go from there? Thx, Thom
Id include it all, but its really up to you. Cheers!
Can you tell CraigTube to do what everyone else has done and move to all grain,this obsession he has with Coopers Syrup kits is ridiculous, he is the only brewer still doing the things
Where do I get one of those Chucky hats?
Was wondering if you’d be kind enough to convert that to US measurements. I was racking my brain last night trying to convert your numbers and was getting different results.
Hence imperial is an inferior measurement standard in all measurement types. Metric is king
@@adamin35 your reply really doesn't help though
A useful video Gash. The last couple of brews on my Brewzilla, I've found my OG to be under what beersmith says. As you mentioned, I think I need to adjust the boil off rate to suit my system. Currently it is 4.3. How do I test the boil off rate, is it as simple as accurately measuring 10 L of water, and boiling for 15 min, then multiplying by 4?
Thats not going to be very accurate. What you would do is boil full amount for 60mins, of course a pain in the arse. What happens is you lose some coming up to boil, so it doesnt really work 4x a 15min boil and 10L is going to boil differently to 30L. To save that trouble next batch just really take notice of where levels are from preboil to post boil.
If you're worried about numbers in your next batch maybe lower efficiency to match the actual eff you've been getting. You can always put it up next batch.
Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Thanks for the reply and no worries, I'll keep a closer eye on the boil off rate next brew. I think I need to be more accurate with measuring my water volumes as well. I remember you mentioning in a previous vid about a scientific jug you had being way off. It's just another thing I need to dial in as I am too trusting of the graduations on my gear.
Yes thats true too, its a very organic process, boil off can vary from brew to brew, volumes mean a lot. If a measuring jug is just 200ml out, by the time you get to the 35L or more you need for a brew, that 200ml can add up to a lot. It's all about fine tuning for your set up, nothing will be perfect. The brewers who say its perfect every time are liars.. Theres ways to adjust the brewing process, by measuring the whole way through and extending boils, or adding extra sugars, all work. Just depends which way you want to go. Don't get caught up with efficiency numbers, what matters is consistency. The eff numbers vary so differently between setups, my 3V had a much lower eff, but thats because you lose more in the mash tun, and just 2 litres in the mash tun makes a massive difference, but thankfully not to the taste, just that you may have to use 500g more grain.... its really nothing.. but people get caught up on the numbers, kinda ridiculous. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork yeah agreed mate, and you are right, I don't really care about high efficiency, I'm just after consistency. Thanks for the detailed replies.
Hi Gash, just bought a robobrew myself. My dead space below tap seems to be 1.7 litres. Wonder why, as I thought they would all be the same.
+Todd Gambell I think the new model is slightly different, mine is from the first batch of them. Cheers!
Hey Gash was wondering cost wise how much in Aus to do an average 19 litre keg of Ale all grain compared to say a coopers kit and how many hours for your brew day. Great vid cheers Gash.
g'day. grain about $15 if you are buying in bulk or about 20-25 if buying each time. hops varies from 5-15 and yeast $6-12. and maybe $1 for whirlfloc. So anywhere from $26 to $55. usually. Depending on the beer. Cheers!
+Brad Butler oh and a brew day goes to about 4 to 6 hrs depnding on methods used! Cheers!
Cheers Gash..
Hey Gash loving your channel, Just wondering if you could help, I'm a AG noob who just got a brewzilla after brewing extract for a couple of years and was wondering if this formula works for it. Im going to do a 40L batch with an 8.6 kilo grain bill but the recipe said to mash in with 22L and sparge with 32L but 22L doesnt seem like not enough. I haven't worked out the dead space or boil off yet but if they were both 4L for example this formula would work out to be 40L for mash and 16.6L for sparge. Am i better off ditching the volumes on the recipe and going with your formula? Im having trouble finding info regarding the brewzilla as the 35L Robobrew seems to be more popular. Cheers Jim
Yes this theory will work with any system. its a rough estimate, but gives you some where to start. 22L wont be enough for your mash, Cheers!
Thanks Gash will give it a go!
I have a question regarding the false bottom below the mash pipe. Do you use this screen?
Yes
@@HomeBrewNetwork I've found it gets clogged, any tips or tricks for that issue?
@@willisgilles6279 The false bottom or are you talking about the the actual mash pipe? I've never seen a false bottom ever totally block, if that's the case I'd be looking your crush, Is it very fine or double crushed? I've thrown massive amounts of hops and grains at it and its never blocked, maybe try a quick stir at the end of boil, a whirlpool, to centre the trub.
If its the mash pipe ditch the fine screen totally and again look at your crush.
Cheers!
Thanks for your time your information is invaluable . I was confused about mash and sparge volumes until I watched your video 👍🏻🍀
Interestingly my Robobrew has 1.75L of dead space. I have the newer version with the volume markers on the side and clip down lid. I wonder if they lowered the tap?
+antdinham Im not sure mate, havent used the newer version, easy to adjust though, Cheers
+Gash Slugg So just use your Beer Smith profile but change the dead space volume?
+antdinham umm that could or will the eff%s umm I'll have a look at it tomorrow and play around with some numbers.. its mucking around with tun dead space and chiller loss numbers, both these affect the eff%s and need tweaking to get everything right, because they'll change mash eff, which is what we dont want.
+Gash Slugg Thanks! I'm not sure what you mean when you say you can't alter the efficiency directly? I can type in any value for brewhouse efficiency I like? I'm running version 2.2.12.
+antdinham Yeah, I'm talking about the mash eff so we get the the numbers right for preboil/post boil
Heya Gash
can you help me with some advice re a 7.5kg grain bill - was going to do a reiterated mash, and have been trying to figure out the two strike/sparge volumes - or whether you think a 35l Robobrew would handle it in one!
I think you will squeeze it in, it'll be tight, and you'll have to work it, as in might have to stir etc to keep flow going, just be becareful with strike amount, maybe start with 19l or maybe 20l just see how it goes, reckon you may need to add more, a litre or two but better off starring with too little, than overflowing. Cheers
If you're really worried maybe remove centre pipe and put a grain bag in the mash pipe so you can fill it past the handle holes.. just another option probably not needed.
when's the next video?it's been a while....😊
Sorry mate, kids in the way.. Hopefully not too long... Cheers!
Hi mate will that change the abv if it was 19 litres or 20 litres of wort at the end?
Umm not exactly sure what you mean, but if its because of more boil off yeah you will have a stronger beer, but if it was because of other reasons it may not. Cheers Jason
Gash Slugg Brewing sorry if I were to use the same ingredients and had 1 litre less wort before boil will the abv be higher because I have less water in the robobrew brew. Sorry mate it’s hard for me to explain😂😂
It would likely be slightly higher, yep mate, cheers!
Gash Slugg Brewing hi mate I’ve been looking at the Grainfather.com and they have a water mash sparge calculator is it possible to use this for the robobrew or is it completely different?
This method is using basic numbers to simplify the maths for beginners, but the method is right, you need to work out your boil off, your dead spaces and your grain absorption, robobrew grain absorption with be something like .6 - .9 L per kg, each grain is slightly different. Your boil off will be different depending on your power supply and extension leads etc. Dead space in the newer V2 and V3 is nearly nothing maybe a litre. Cheers!
What sort of alcohol content do you get from five kilos of malt grain to 19 litres ?
G'day, if it was 5kg of a base ale malt you'd be about 6%. Cheers!
When I say 5kg of malt, its probably 4Kg of base and some munich malt and small bits of speciality malt and be closer to 4.9-5.5% depending.
Biggest beer I've done in it so far was 6.8Kg and hit around 9-10%
Longer boil for that one as well
Cheers mate, good work with the vids. A+++ youtuber highly recommended.
Cheers buddy
Cheers mate!