Awesome and helpful video. Your videos are incredible, helpful, and insightful Cody, and have encouraged me and will further encourage the next generation of climbers.
thanks for the good advices! at the end of the video, the cordellete pass directly through the couple of hangers. Is this a safe? I thought that the hanger is too "sharp" for a cordellette to pass through
That is something you should definitely look for and be cautious of! Typically, bolted stations are not as susceptible to the dynamic forces that cause burrs to form. This isn’t the ideal, but cord tends to do very well for quite a long time in this situation, surprisingly.
I've also bailed passing 6mm (preferebly 7mm) cordellete directly through hangers. As long as the rappel is straight down, I assume the minimal risk. So far I'm still here. I would advice hou do what you feel confortable using and doing.
@@LukeFrisken You leave as little as possible at every rappel. But in worst case you might have left a thousand dollars worth of cams, nuts, slings and biners. That's just life.
How would we feel about tying into the wall, threading a couple feet of cordalette through the hanger to make a loop. Passing the climbing rope through the cordalette up to the mid point of the climbing rope, and then rappelling down both strands. Less than ideal, but cheap and maybe better for the next guy than leaving a quick link in the hanger?
Awesome and helpful video. Your videos are incredible, helpful, and insightful Cody, and have encouraged me and will further encourage the next generation of climbers.
Love all your videos!!
thanks for the good advices! at the end of the video, the cordellete pass directly through the couple of hangers. Is this a safe? I thought that the hanger is too "sharp" for a cordellette to pass through
That is something you should definitely look for and be cautious of! Typically, bolted stations are not as susceptible to the dynamic forces that cause burrs to form. This isn’t the ideal, but cord tends to do very well for quite a long time in this situation, surprisingly.
I've also bailed passing 6mm (preferebly 7mm) cordellete directly through hangers. As long as the rappel is straight down, I assume the minimal risk. So far I'm still here. I would advice hou do what you feel confortable using and doing.
What do you do on an alpine route where there may be in the region of 10 rappels on a retreat?
I’m guessing you only bail once mid route. After that you simply rap off the anchors, business as usual.
@@allaprima let's say this is a first ascent or a rarely repeated ascent on a big wall/mountain
@@LukeFrisken You leave as little as possible at every rappel. But in worst case you might have left a thousand dollars worth of cams, nuts, slings and biners. That's just life.
@@timonix2mountains get polluted if we leave stuff behind.
@@domen1154that's another reason to not leave stuff behind. But if you don't come down alive all your stuff remains there anyways.
Thank you.
You ROCK🙏🙏🤙
Great pun and cheers, my friend! Hope these things prove helpful!
How would we feel about tying into the wall, threading a couple feet of cordalette through the hanger to make a loop. Passing the climbing rope through the cordalette up to the mid point of the climbing rope, and then rappelling down both strands. Less than ideal, but cheap and maybe better for the next guy than leaving a quick link in the hanger?