The best thing about these kinds of videos are it’s reassuring to the rest of us when we are struggling with hurdles that we aren’t failures, everyone has these types of struggles. When all you see is videos of techs figuring things out instantly and case studies where some guy flew in and figured out a problem a shop spent a ton of time on it sets the expectation that we should be able to as well every time.
Oh man this was Deja Vu- about a year ago I ran into this exact situation with an HID high and low beam failure despite new bulbs right down to testing the other side to try and figure out the system and determining the wire diagram was misleading. Ultimately since I had both headlight assemblies out I just swapped them and found the microprocessor in the one assembly was bad- not serviceable so had to replace entire assembly. Wasn’t really satisfied that I couldn’t diagnose it in a more technical way but it was a total learning experience for sure.
Great video, Paul! No apologies needed for not having the right wiring diagram. That's a reality check. Sometimes, we spend more time trying to find correct information than it does to actually diagnose the problem. That's where proper training and understanding the circuits helps when you can't find the information you need.
The comments r a mixed bag. Paul is showing us real time finding, fixing. I really doubt that one in 500 commenters could fix or find the problem faster than Paul. I guess any and all comments drive the algorithm. I am just thankful that father and son teach me a lot!! Can u imagine how much it would cost to pay for the education we get first free. The last video about the aftermarket crank sensor was a gem. And guess what? All his old videos help us thru almost any problem we have. BP (before Scanner Danner) I had no clue about electrical diagnosis on cars. I even use a scope once in awhile. If nothing more, get his book. The electronic version gives u access to pertinent vids. Paul and Caleb, please keep it up!!!!! Thank u!!
Well then, I recommend to all fully qualified electric enginers with a master degree to call fixing an extension cord difficult in future.... Congratulations you fixed it, but you still don't understand how that light works. 4 functions: high low running and signal, needs for ingoing wires on a dump unit like this. Plus grounds of course, 2 in this case.
@@mannebk9978 I do now lol. I didn't know that assembly was also parking lights and turn signals. But if I had you there with me I could have fixed it in no time! 😂
My own curiosity I had to look up the wiring diagrams. The 2012 Ram showed me the diagram you had. The 2013 Ram offered a different one… A ST or SLT has two connectors for each headlight. A C1 and C2. C2 has the ground on the end and controls parking light and turn signal. C1 has the ground in the middle and has the Hi/Lo functions. It goes to show that Chrysler wiring is so bad even their wiring diagrams are bad. 😆
@@Scofflaw_k10to be fair, the Ram pickups went through a refresh between 2012 and 2013 model years. I've seen this in the past with Ford trucks (1995 f250 to be specific) where it appears they started the transition late mid year without good documentation. It is almost as if the factory ran low on old style parts and someone decided to use the new versions instead of putting in an order for the old and having waste at the end of the production cycle. Of course that is just my conjecture as to why but it does seem to be common for undocumented mismatches across manufacturers when changes like these are expected.
The black connector belong to the Parking Light circuit. The Green Connector is for the Low/High beam circuit. That’s why it the voltage didn’t change when switching between Low/Hight beam. When you put the test light from ground to the pin 3, on that black connector, it flicker because that one belong to the left turn signal. Both, Green & Black have similar wire colors, that’s why the confusion. If you go to the External Light Circuit you’ll see the black connector belong to the Park/Signal Circuit with similar (not same) wire colors. God bless you…
This video is great because this is what we seen in the field. Aftermarket headlights, wrong info and being able to see past your initial hypothesis. Awesome stuff.
It's bad enough not having good diagrams, but when customers dink around and put in aftermarket parts that don't work right with the car electronics--- it's a real nightmare. THANK YOU for this video!
I think this video is more valuable as is, than if curve balls never happened. Watching some one else struggle imprints on us more than watching them breeze through it. You can't get it right till you get it wrong first. Thank you, Paul.
Paul , I’ve watched enough of your videos to know that you know what you’re doing. Poor description of computer controlled operation and incorrect system diagrams can sure lead you down a dark road. Sometimes comparing with a known good unit is only way to avoid being a parts changer. You have the patience of a saint.
Years ago a Toyota Sienna taught me why an LED, or HID, will cause DTCS in a module. Many of these module controlled circuits will detect the ground through the incandescent bulb. When a diode is put in place, the module can't detect that ground, therefore setting a DTC. I had rke operation problems on my personal car because a previous owner put an LED, in the dome lamp, apparently the BCM needed to have a ground path through the dome lamp in order to know when the doors were closed and allow the fob to lock the car.
Which is why a lot of the LED lamp assemblies have a resistor in them to allow that current to flow, allowing the BCM to detect the circuit is complete, and not set the code.
You can't really fault yourself in this video. You went where the information took you. The information was bad. You then diagnosed the information as being bad. The input screwed your output for you. Good work again, man!
I am an aftermarket installer for stuff like this and when I get something like this in not working I ALWAYS touch EVERYTHING that has been touched before messing with diagrams and circuits etc. Retrace their steps. Never assume the last guy/gal knew what they were doing. Aftermarket connectors are notorious for being poorly made. I have plugged in a set of similar lights and then changed back and had connection issues because the aftermarket plug spread the terminals!
As some other commenters have mentioned, the big car companies like to do mid year refreshes and that's caught me out a bunch of times too... Currently working on a 2000 Ram Van and it's actually a 2001 model year, but was made in 2000 🤦♂️ so many differences, brake lines, ignition switches to name a couple 🤷♂️
ScannerDanner, Hello there, my name is Luis, I’m a dealership technician all the way over in Southern California. I’ve decided to subscribe to scannerdanner premium and also got your book. You have inspired me deeply to change my mindset and to bring my career to a whole new level. I am diving headfirst into your teachings. From this day forward I am going to submerge myself in your classes on your premium page and also bring your manual to my work to help me apply these teachings right there at work every day ! im hungry for this knowledge you have so gratuitously made available to us on the internet. Thank you so much for that. I don’t want to be a part changer , I want to make a difference from this day forward . Im gonna do things right. We are gonna change this industry together ! I’ll be recommending you to my coworkers as well ! Time for an adventure let’s go !!!!!!
Where is my "let's go!" Gif? Thank you my friend. I look forward to watching your path. What's your user name on my site? So I'll recognize you in the comments.
Great comment sir and greater still that there are technicians like you who want to make their skills better and their industry the better for it. Not just parts changers but using skills and knowledge like ScannerDanner shows. South Main Auto, Pine Hollow Diagnostics, Diagnose Dan, Watch Wes Work, are channels i like watching as well.
Some systems are looking for the right amount of current when on en a circuit when off. ( hot and cold diagnosis) I often power the lights myself through the multimeter and you will see the current it takes. And you can calculate or compare to a known good light. This method helped me a lot of times.
Been in the similar situations, was in consumer, then industrial, then finally in medical electronics repairs since early 80s have ran into diagrams that were incorrect, missing data on several occasions. Very frustrating sometimes it's obvious caught quickly sometimes not. Yup it sucks but it's always a learning experience. Thanks for the video
Another awesome video for the community, its always troubling when wiring diagrams lead you the wrong way but with excellent electrical fundamental and patience you got to the problem. Thx for sharing Paul and Caleb did great job editing once again 😂👍
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Glad to see we are all human and can be mislead by faulty information. Glad you got it sorted by good old fashioned detective work. Good Job, God Bless.
Great diag! I'd be a worry wart about a comeback and I'd have bypassed that connector with crimp/seal connectors to be extra sure, but that ruins the servicability of it so I understand why you wouldn't. Plus it's NPR! No Parts Required
I think the one thing you didn’t think about as far as the diagram is the turn signal and running light circuit. I’m sure on of those connectors was for those circuits.
The HID option I would say turns off the PWM of the lamps, and also turns off the bulb failure detection as well, as the module no longer will be able to detect failed lamps based on the presence voltage, and instead will have to rely on current sense instead.
Here if you have dtc for some light you don't get volt or current to them.... ...makeing testing sell new pc that it didn't need as some one made am headlamp that didn't work in firsth place! EDIT: Great find! I was thinking here, that it was 1 power and 2 ground control and the weard ground readings, was do to the "led pulps"...
14:14 At this point I would have front probed with an h11 bulb and seen what happens, but to be fair I have uTest kit. 24:00 pin fit / burnt connectors are 90% of all headlight failures I see that are not bulb failures. Tightening pin fit rarely works long term since after market headlights get so much hotter and draw more current
Dear Mr. Paul & All People, I heard somewhere else that the computer are precicely calibrated to certain resistances or amp. draw when it comes to external lighting so that any aftermarket lamp other than stock will trigger DTC. My opinion is that auto computer systems purpose should only control emissions as it was initially intended, without interfering with everything else. I guess manufacturers control policies do not want to allow owners the freedom to benefit aftermarket or customise their own cars. This excessive control, domination and snooping as well which makes lots of people refrains from buying new cars. Take Care you All.
The "snooping and control" I agree with. But computer control in general is a net good for the consumers. Take pulse width modulation lights for instance, it allows a brighter light and the ability to change the beam width when needed without blinding oncoming traffic as they can self adjust according to ambient light. Other features like single press window functions or various ADAS functions wouldn't be possible without computerized systems- or a huge weight and bulk issue from analog systems. The problem as I see it is the lack of adequate documentation being openly available and access to the tools neccesary for regular people.
@@sumduma55You are right my Friend, but over complicating things everywhere on common people's cars (not high marque) vehicles which raises repair costs, time and prevent common People from making simple tasks at weekends to their cars Loool. One worse thing on some models that changing a battery will probably hault a vehicle and require a certain programing (a sort of organ transplant adaptation) to be done on specific equipment or programs with paid subscriptions. From Broader perspective, the scenario is part monopoly with s series of loots from end user and repair technicians. Maybe 2 years ago I saw at "Advanced Level Auto Diagnostic" Channel on U Tube a common failure of Fuel pump control module on Ford F150, the module is somehow bulky steel wrapped bigger than ECM placed beside the fuel tank which contains a complex electronic card inside, and since these cars have CAN Bus, I came to assume that maybe a manufacturer have an underground (darkweb) hackers whereas after a certain years / miles they can send a scrip to such a complex fuel pump module to put to death its operation. Not only that, but programming that module need a specific paid program where the technician log in to Ford only to be able to make the programming, i.e. playing in Ford's yard inside their fences only Looool. Nice Talking to you. Take Care.
I killed a bunch of time on a '17 Porsche Cayenne that the dealer gave up on, last week, with no lights on the left headlights. There is only one diagram in Alldata, which lists the specific fuses for each lamp, and the owner's manual shows those same fuses. There are NO fuses in the car for either side, and no wires for them in the fusebox. Unreal! '16 and '18 diagrams are identical.... Went to the headlamp to test power, and found the harness plug to the lamp broken and someone had plugged it in backwards. Oops! Plugging it in correctly fixed all the lights on the lamp except the low beam, which needed a Xenon bulb driver. Darn those wiring connectors!
If you could see the schematic for ins inside the light assemblies you would find like a head light BCM that the truck diagnostic cant access . Also in there is not a hot filament instead close to a arc welder using a smart ignition coil to drive it . I like like using Hella h-4 , 90/130w bulbs with relays hooked to the alt. output , for my upgrades
Good morning, I’m curious on a job like you did here, how do you charge the customer and what sort of time it took to go through what you did? Thanks for such great trouble shooting information. Great job Dan!
Hi Paul! Big fan here. Short story: I already have been working on my own into the electrical and electronic spec of vehicles, but what I find myself a little troubled in, is wanting to buy a good scanner that’s cheap (since I don’t have a big budget for it) and reliable. I use cheap ones, since I’ve only been working on old cars (2000s) but I already feel confident enough to take a big step and start working on new models, so what actually worries me the most are the next things: topology and VATS (including key repros) hope you can help me with this, I really love working in this area of the automotive repair industry, but I think it’s starting to get way more complex working on new models than it used to be without good equipment. Saludos from Mexico.
For real, start off with the Topdon TopScan Pro and then go from there. It will be the best spent $100 ever. I promise. Use my affiliate link if you want www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner-c512/
@@ScannerDanner oh right! I think I saw that one in one of your last videos, I just checked the specifications, looks fantastic to start with! Tysm Paul. 🫡
Thats a good one there Paul. Some real world stuff! Cant really tell whats/wut sometimes. Alldata has the same exact schematic you were using. Anyway, really appreciate you sharing!
Good video but u have to remember there is always going to b more than one plug for the headlights u can't forget about running lights and turn signals in 2013 was split year for ram trucks trucks looked the same but is totally different electronics on 2013 u can change settings on bcm to run leds or hids
You should have seen from the colors of the wires in the first place that you are in the wrong connector. Because the wiring diagram had pin number 2 black, and 1 and 3 white. And this where you measured first, the black wire was at the edge, not in the middle.
@@ScannerDanner yes, it is easier look here behind TV, than in real life when do works 😁 probably all of us commenters would have been made the same, measured by what was easiest to access. especially if there was only one connector marked in the wiring diagram...
WoW Amazing👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Really cool car, there's a thing with Chrysler products they're intimidating😅 Thanks for sharing SD😍😍😍 Special Thanks to cameraman Caleb😎 Stay Blessed Danner Family🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Now imagine the fun if there were problems with active light aim based on steering angle inputs and beam leveling based on rear axle ride height sensors.
at 30:01 I noticed that "left high beam" code didn't set, because that bulb is still an incandescent. the LED are setting the codes, they'll have to add resistors to "waste" energy to fool the (tipm/computer) to not set codes. looked like led marker and maybe turn signals, probably set more codes when blinkers are used. "sler" products. lol
I ran into this on a 2003 jeep renegade. Same problem after market headlights don't work right with them. 2 hrs to get them working. Wires were cut and taped bad instal and still couldn't get the low beam working it was on high beam all the time owner refused any more repair.
When I see you wiping the sweat off your face, I remember Jimmy Swaggart doing that and can see you preaching and wiping your face on a hot Sunday morning.
I've never understood why dealers are usually helpful in providing info like this to people who ask. I'm not complaining but I just want to understand why.
@@abdul-kabiralegbe5660My guess is customer service and image. It's part of the "we have the expertise" ordeal but if you are working on something they sell or sold, do you want the sentiment from the public to be - they are assholes and only want to help if you pay them? Or would a - this dealership is is helpful, knowledgeable, and courteous be better. Which would you prefer to purchase a new car from or recommend someone else to go to?
Hey Paul, if you ever see this i have a 2014 kia forte koup with the 1.6 Turbo gdi engine, my vacuum pump has caused a short somewhere so i ran the car with it unplugged after trying to fix the pump and reinstalling it now my Ecu will not turn on unless it is plugged in. What direction should i go?
May I ask you...I have a Meriva in Argentina but i test with my ometer positive and negative hot lines and it is CERO high connection ? I take out all the relays and fuse but still the terminals on the battery is CERO means connected negative and positive it can be normal ?
@@ScannerDanner I don't agree with the computer world's opinion that capitals mean shouting. I like to use them for EMPHASIS sometimes. Back in the old days when people could actually print, sometimes they used all capitals or preferred it that way. Maybe i am being a bit facetious but sometimes i wonder what is going on in schools these days where iPads are being used by even the earliest grades. But maybe that's our future that people will have no handwriting skills. So, if i use capitals in the future, i'm not yelling at you ScannerDanner. I have too much respect for you and your abilities.
that would be something you would do if you found the TIPM was not sending power out. Once we saw the same results on the working side, there was no reason to dig into the TIPM wiring
My neighbor has 2014 Jeep JL he has had replacement LED lights. But the front turn signals don’t work no flash it lights when on but no flash when turn signal’s activated. BUT back ones flash perfectly 🤷♂️ I gave up told him I can’t fix it . Totally lost. Oh yeah 13.3 volts on feed wire
I imagine this happen after installing LEDs? A lot of times, especially on Dodge you have to had a load resistor to the circuit or you will have problems
@@ScannerDanner Amazon usually has them for $90 on sale right now for $60… $50 yearly subscriptions or it stops working. That’s kinda holding me up. The subscription part over a few years of owning it.
Mr. My name is Jamar cox I’m a former student of yours I have a situation with a dodge caravan doing something weird I’m having an issue figuring it out I was wondering if can provide some insight please 🙏🏾
Sir please reply... this question is very very confusing... I have 2 identical 12V DC 7.5Ah batteries say X and Y. One side of a normal bulb is connected to postive terminal of X battery, and another side of the bulb is connected to the negative terminal of the Y battery. The negative terminal of X battery and the positive terminal of Y battery are not connected to anything. So, in this case, I want to know whether there will be a current flow to the bulb, and whether the bulb will glow??? Give reasons if bulb will glow, and reasons why bulb will not glow. Thanks in advance.
First, this is a hypothetical of what real world condition? Second, in theory, nothing will happen (no current flow) as it is an open circuit, but is there some sort of equalization that happens first? Connecting batteries this way, you'll now have 24v, so does the bulb glow during this "equalization" process (probably the wrong word I'm using here)
With all this new technology that vehicles have, why do people want to add aftermarket stuff like this? Yeah, i guess there are those who want to have a different "look". I think auto lighting systems today provide enough light. You are only asking for trouble. Unless the aftermarket supplies components that cause no problems with the onboard computer and modules setting codes, i would be staying original. As SD stated, those codes will remain there.
The best thing about these kinds of videos are it’s reassuring to the rest of us when we are struggling with hurdles that we aren’t failures, everyone has these types of struggles. When all you see is videos of techs figuring things out instantly and case studies where some guy flew in and figured out a problem a shop spent a ton of time on it sets the expectation that we should be able to as well every time.
Oh man this was Deja Vu- about a year ago I ran into this exact situation with an HID high and low beam failure despite new bulbs right down to testing the other side to try and figure out the system and determining the wire diagram was misleading.
Ultimately since I had both headlight assemblies out I just swapped them and found the microprocessor in the one assembly was bad- not serviceable so had to replace entire assembly. Wasn’t really satisfied that I couldn’t diagnose it in a more technical way but it was a total learning experience for sure.
Great video, Paul! No apologies needed for not having the right wiring diagram. That's a reality check. Sometimes, we spend more time trying to find correct information than it does to actually diagnose the problem. That's where proper training and understanding the circuits helps when you can't find the information you need.
The comments r a mixed bag. Paul is showing us real time finding, fixing. I really doubt that one in 500 commenters could fix or find the problem faster than Paul. I guess any and all comments drive the algorithm. I am just thankful that father and son teach me a lot!! Can u imagine how much it would cost to pay for the education we get first free. The last video about the aftermarket crank sensor was a gem. And guess what? All his old videos help us thru almost any problem we have. BP (before Scanner Danner) I had no clue about electrical diagnosis on cars. I even use a scope once in awhile. If nothing more, get his book. The electronic version gives u access to pertinent vids. Paul and Caleb, please keep it up!!!!! Thank u!!
Thank you Bill!
Trying to learn an unfamiliar system can be really difficult when the service info that you have is wrong. Let's figure this out together.
And this is exactly why I teach to NEVER rely upon a color aftermarket diagram. It slows down every diag with missing or incorrect information
Well then, I recommend to all fully qualified electric enginers with a master degree to call fixing an extension cord difficult in future.... Congratulations you fixed it, but you still don't understand how that light works. 4 functions: high low running and signal, needs for ingoing wires on a dump unit like this. Plus grounds of course, 2 in this case.
@@mannebk9978 I do now lol. I didn't know that assembly was also parking lights and turn signals. But if I had you there with me I could have fixed it in no time! 😂
My own curiosity I had to look up the wiring diagrams. The 2012 Ram showed me the diagram you had. The 2013 Ram offered a different one… A ST or SLT has two connectors for each headlight. A C1 and C2. C2 has the ground on the end and controls parking light and turn signal. C1 has the ground in the middle and has the Hi/Lo functions. It goes to show that Chrysler wiring is so bad even their wiring diagrams are bad. 😆
@@Scofflaw_k10to be fair, the Ram pickups went through a refresh between 2012 and 2013 model years. I've seen this in the past with Ford trucks (1995 f250 to be specific) where it appears they started the transition late mid year without good documentation. It is almost as if the factory ran low on old style parts and someone decided to use the new versions instead of putting in an order for the old and having waste at the end of the production cycle. Of course that is just my conjecture as to why but it does seem to be common for undocumented mismatches across manufacturers when changes like these are expected.
The black connector belong to the Parking Light circuit. The Green Connector is for the Low/High beam circuit. That’s why it the voltage didn’t change when switching between Low/Hight beam. When you put the test light from ground to the pin 3, on that black connector, it flicker because that one belong to the left turn signal. Both, Green & Black have similar wire colors, that’s why the confusion. If you go to the External Light Circuit you’ll see the black connector belong to the Park/Signal Circuit with similar (not same) wire colors. God bless you…
This video is great because this is what we seen in the field. Aftermarket headlights, wrong info and being able to see past your initial hypothesis. Awesome stuff.
It's bad enough not having good diagrams, but when customers dink around and put in aftermarket parts that don't work right with the car electronics--- it's a real nightmare. THANK YOU for this video!
I think this video is more valuable as is, than if curve balls never happened. Watching some one else struggle imprints on us more than watching them breeze through it. You can't get it right till you get it wrong first. Thank you, Paul.
Paul , I’ve watched enough of your videos to know that you know what you’re doing.
Poor description of computer controlled operation and incorrect system diagrams can sure lead you down a dark road.
Sometimes comparing with a known good unit is only way to avoid being a parts changer.
You have the patience of a saint.
Years ago a Toyota Sienna taught me why an LED, or HID, will cause DTCS in a module. Many of these module controlled circuits will detect the ground through the incandescent bulb. When a diode is put in place, the module can't detect that ground, therefore setting a DTC. I had rke operation problems on my personal car because a previous owner put an LED, in the dome lamp, apparently the BCM needed to have a ground path through the dome lamp in order to know when the doors were closed and allow the fob to lock the car.
Which is why a lot of the LED lamp assemblies have a resistor in them to allow that current to flow, allowing the BCM to detect the circuit is complete, and not set the code.
Buying cheap lights
You can't really fault yourself in this video. You went where the information took you. The information was bad. You then diagnosed the information as being bad. The input screwed your output for you. Good work again, man!
great video,I like the voltmeter readings displayed on the video screen as you diagnosed the problem really good visual effect.
Agree. All the screen overlays they do are really helpful
I am an aftermarket installer for stuff like this and when I get something like this in not working I ALWAYS touch EVERYTHING that has been touched before messing with diagrams and circuits etc. Retrace their steps. Never assume the last guy/gal knew what they were doing. Aftermarket connectors are notorious for being poorly made. I have plugged in a set of similar lights and then changed back and had connection issues because the aftermarket plug spread the terminals!
Because the next guy knows everything lol
Great job my friend ! Wrong information always sucks but you got through it ! Isn't this fun .
As some other commenters have mentioned, the big car companies like to do mid year refreshes and that's caught me out a bunch of times too... Currently working on a 2000 Ram Van and it's actually a 2001 model year, but was made in 2000 🤦♂️ so many differences, brake lines, ignition switches to name a couple 🤷♂️
Learn something new everyday with your hard work and effort thank you for sharing your skills 👍🏼
ScannerDanner, Hello there, my name is Luis, I’m a dealership technician all the way over in Southern California. I’ve decided to subscribe to scannerdanner premium and also got your book. You have inspired me deeply to change my mindset and to bring my career to a whole new level. I am diving headfirst into your teachings. From this day forward I am going to submerge myself in your classes on your premium page and also bring your manual to my work to help me apply these teachings right there at work every day ! im hungry for this knowledge you have so gratuitously made available to us on the internet. Thank you so much for that. I don’t want to be a part changer , I want to make a difference from this day forward . Im gonna do things right. We are gonna change this industry together ! I’ll be recommending you to my coworkers as well ! Time for an adventure let’s go !!!!!!
Where is my "let's go!" Gif?
Thank you my friend. I look forward to watching your path. What's your user name on my site? So I'll recognize you in the comments.
Great comment sir and greater still that there are technicians like you who want to make their skills better and their industry the better for it. Not just parts changers but using skills and knowledge like ScannerDanner shows. South Main Auto, Pine Hollow Diagnostics, Diagnose Dan, Watch Wes Work, are channels i like watching as well.
@@ScannerDanner my name on there is Luisrlopez
Some systems are looking for the right amount of current when on en a circuit when off. ( hot and cold diagnosis)
I often power the lights myself through the multimeter and you will see the current it takes. And you can calculate or compare to a known good light. This method helped me a lot of times.
yep, bias voltage
Great video, Paul as always. Another video where we all learn. No need to apologies needed. God Bless.
Paul is the king at diagnostics.
Been in the similar situations, was in consumer, then industrial, then finally in medical electronics repairs since early 80s have ran into diagrams that were incorrect, missing data on several occasions. Very frustrating sometimes it's obvious caught quickly sometimes not. Yup it sucks but it's always a learning experience. Thanks for the video
Another awesome video for the community, its always troubling when wiring diagrams lead you the wrong way but with excellent electrical fundamental and patience you got to the problem. Thx for sharing Paul and Caleb did great job editing once again 😂👍
Cudos to Caleb on his fancy vid effects! Beautiful!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Glad to see we are all human and can be mislead by faulty information. Glad you got it sorted by good old fashioned detective work. Good Job, God Bless.
Aftermarket. What a hoot. And mot telling you or believe its not important. They dont tell you because they know you wouldnt work on them.
Always excellent demonstration. Basics , connectors are often overlooked..good reminders. Thank you.
Will been nice to use protection on the bumper for scratches 😊
Great diag! I'd be a worry wart about a comeback and I'd have bypassed that connector with crimp/seal connectors to be extra sure, but that ruins the servicability of it so I understand why you wouldn't. Plus it's NPR! No Parts Required
I think the one thing you didn’t think about as far as the diagram is the turn signal and running light circuit. I’m sure on of those connectors was for those circuits.
for sure! I didn't even know those were part of this assembly until the very end
The HID option I would say turns off the PWM of the lamps, and also turns off the bulb failure detection as well, as the module no longer will be able to detect failed lamps based on the presence voltage, and instead will have to rely on current sense instead.
It's always fun trying to figure out problems on a vehicle when you have the problems that are introduced causing more problems.
I trust your judgement, would put new injectors in it if I were the dealer.
Here if you have dtc for some light you don't get volt or current to them....
...makeing testing sell new pc that it didn't need as some one made am headlamp that didn't work in firsth place!
EDIT: Great find! I was thinking here, that it was 1 power and 2 ground control and the weard ground readings, was do to the "led pulps"...
Great detective work. Thanks for sharing that.
14:14 At this point I would have front probed with an h11 bulb and seen what happens, but to be fair I have uTest kit.
24:00 pin fit / burnt connectors are 90% of all headlight failures I see that are not bulb failures. Tightening pin fit rarely works long term since after market headlights get so much hotter and draw more current
Your editor is number one 🎉🎉
I like this alot
It's my son Caleb. Thanks!
Dear Mr. Paul & All People, I heard somewhere else that the computer are precicely calibrated to certain resistances or amp. draw when it comes to external lighting so that any aftermarket lamp other than stock will trigger DTC. My opinion is that auto computer systems purpose should only control emissions as it was initially intended, without interfering with everything else. I guess manufacturers control policies do not want to allow owners the freedom to benefit aftermarket or customise their own cars. This excessive control, domination and snooping as well which makes lots of people refrains from buying new cars. Take Care you All.
The "snooping and control" I agree with. But computer control in general is a net good for the consumers. Take pulse width modulation lights for instance, it allows a brighter light and the ability to change the beam width when needed without blinding oncoming traffic as they can self adjust according to ambient light. Other features like single press window functions or various ADAS functions wouldn't be possible without computerized systems- or a huge weight and bulk issue from analog systems. The problem as I see it is the lack of adequate documentation being openly available and access to the tools neccesary for regular people.
@@sumduma55You are right my Friend, but over complicating things everywhere on common people's cars (not high marque) vehicles which raises repair costs, time and prevent common People from making simple tasks at weekends to their cars Loool. One worse thing on some models that changing a battery will probably hault a vehicle and require a certain programing (a sort of organ transplant adaptation) to be done on specific equipment or programs with paid subscriptions. From Broader perspective, the scenario is part monopoly with s series of loots from end user and repair technicians. Maybe 2 years ago I saw at "Advanced Level Auto Diagnostic" Channel on U Tube a common failure of Fuel pump control module on Ford F150, the module is somehow bulky steel wrapped bigger than ECM placed beside the fuel tank which contains a complex electronic card inside, and since these cars have CAN Bus, I came to assume that maybe a manufacturer have an underground (darkweb) hackers whereas after a certain years / miles they can send a scrip to such a complex fuel pump module to put to death its operation. Not only that, but programming that module need a specific paid program where the technician log in to Ford only to be able to make the programming, i.e. playing in Ford's yard inside their fences only Looool. Nice Talking to you. Take Care.
Caleb's edits are neat 👌🏻
I killed a bunch of time on a '17 Porsche Cayenne that the dealer gave up on, last week, with no lights on the left headlights. There is only one diagram in Alldata, which lists the specific fuses for each lamp, and the owner's manual shows those same fuses. There are NO fuses in the car for either side, and no wires for them in the fusebox. Unreal! '16 and '18 diagrams are identical.... Went to the headlamp to test power, and found the harness plug to the lamp broken and someone had plugged it in backwards. Oops! Plugging it in correctly fixed all the lights on the lamp except the low beam, which needed a Xenon bulb driver. Darn those wiring connectors!
If you could see the schematic for ins inside the light assemblies you would find like a head light BCM that the truck diagnostic cant access . Also in there is not a hot filament instead close to a arc welder using a smart ignition coil to drive it .
I like like using Hella h-4 , 90/130w bulbs with relays hooked to the alt. output , for my upgrades
Good morning, I’m curious on a job like you did here, how do you charge the customer and what sort of time it took to go through what you did? Thanks for such great trouble shooting information. Great job Dan!
Thanks again Paul, I hate when the information is wrong, it,s alwais a waste of time and a pain on the neck
Hi Paul! Big fan here. Short story: I already have been working on my own into the electrical and electronic spec of vehicles, but what I find myself a little troubled in, is wanting to buy a good scanner that’s cheap (since I don’t have a big budget for it) and reliable. I use cheap ones, since I’ve only been working on old cars (2000s) but I already feel confident enough to take a big step and start working on new models, so what actually worries me the most are the next things: topology and VATS (including key repros) hope you can help me with this, I really love working in this area of the automotive repair industry, but I think it’s starting to get way more complex working on new models than it used to be without good equipment. Saludos from Mexico.
For real, start off with the Topdon TopScan Pro and then go from there. It will be the best spent $100 ever. I promise.
Use my affiliate link if you want www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner-c512/
@@ScannerDanner oh right! I think I saw that one in one of your last videos, I just checked the specifications, looks fantastic to start with! Tysm Paul. 🫡
The customer kicked his own ass 🗣🤣 aftermarket sucks 🎓 thanks for the lesson 👍
Thats a good one there Paul. Some real world stuff! Cant really tell whats/wut sometimes. Alldata has the same exact schematic you were using.
Anyway, really appreciate you sharing!
Good video but u have to remember there is always going to b more than one plug for the headlights u can't forget about running lights and turn signals in 2013 was split year for ram trucks trucks looked the same but is totally different electronics on 2013 u can change settings on bcm to run leds or hids
Good video, real world stuff here. I wonder sometimes if these aftermarket parts like this are the cause of bcm failures.
You should have seen from the colors of the wires in the first place that you are in the wrong connector. Because the wiring diagram had pin number 2 black, and 1 and 3 white. And this where you measured first, the black wire was at the edge, not in the middle.
The colors were right so I didn't catch that.
@@ScannerDanner yes, it is easier look here behind TV, than in real life when do works 😁 probably all of us commenters would have been made the same, measured by what was easiest to access. especially if there was only one connector marked in the wiring diagram...
Always something to learn thankyou mr danner.peace
WoW Amazing👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really cool car, there's a thing with Chrysler products they're intimidating😅
Thanks for sharing SD😍😍😍
Special Thanks to cameraman Caleb😎
Stay Blessed Danner Family🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Bless Your blood & sweat was not for nothing cause I love this type of video. Thanks 😊
That’s when your 30 plus years of experience kick into overdrive Paul! No wiring diagram? No problem.
Great video thanks for sharing
I think the 1st connector you are dealing is for controlling the LED DRLs and turn signal light.
at first i thought that must be a ground side switch but when you found green connector that explained every thing
I was on the same boat as you haha
@@edwardreyes6867hahaha
Now imagine the fun if there were problems with active light aim based on steering angle inputs and beam leveling based on rear axle ride height sensors.
Thanks! For Pete sake
Praying for Pete for your wellness soon😮
at 30:01 I noticed that "left high beam" code didn't set, because that bulb is still an incandescent. the LED are setting the codes, they'll have to add resistors to "waste" energy to fool the (tipm/computer) to not set codes. looked like led marker and maybe turn signals, probably set more codes when blinkers are used. "sler" products. lol
typical day in my life. i’m pretty sure i’ve seen this a couple times with dodge ram. never really got a final diagnosis
I ran into this on a 2003 jeep renegade. Same problem after market headlights don't work right with them. 2 hrs to get them working. Wires were cut and taped bad instal and still couldn't get the low beam working it was on high beam all the time owner refused any more repair.
Just starting the video, I’m wondering if the aftermarket lights are supposed to have direct battery relays that are triggered by the factory system.
When I see you wiping the sweat off your face, I remember Jimmy Swaggart doing that and can see you preaching and wiping your face on a hot Sunday morning.
Thanks Paul. 👍
Thank you so much for the extra support! Means a lot
A thought here at the beginning: was there a problem with the OEM lights, and might 🤔 it help to put OEM back in? 😮
Take the Vin and call a service writer at Dodge/Ram. And ask them to tell you if the truck has or has not got the system your working on
I've never understood why dealers are usually helpful in providing info like this to people who ask. I'm not complaining but I just want to understand why.
@@abdul-kabiralegbe5660My guess is customer service and image. It's part of the "we have the expertise" ordeal but if you are working on something they sell or sold, do you want the sentiment from the public to be - they are assholes and only want to help if you pay them? Or would a - this dealership is is helpful, knowledgeable, and courteous be better. Which would you prefer to purchase a new car from or recommend someone else to go to?
@@sumduma55 Good points raised. Thanks a lot.
Still fun..
It makes me feel better about my struggles. ;lol.
Some days things just go wrong... all day. Oh well
Question : How about continuity and voltage test from TIPM to both left connectors? 🤔
good one thanks
Every car has own problems and opportunities for learning, for new informatio, studies, teaching.
Thumbs up for old school phone ring
Hey Paul, if you ever see this i have a 2014 kia forte koup with the 1.6 Turbo gdi engine, my vacuum pump has caused a short somewhere so i ran the car with it unplugged after trying to fix the pump and reinstalling it now my Ecu will not turn on unless it is plugged in. What direction should i go?
May I ask you...I have a Meriva in Argentina but i test with my ometer positive and negative hot lines and it is CERO high connection ? I take out all the relays and fuse but still the terminals on the battery is CERO means connected negative and positive it can be normal ?
I'm glad my car's still OBD2...
🤣👍
Puff Paul. Have you started bodybuilding? 😎💪
Awesome Outstanding job thanks
Nice !
Fantasztik,good job😄
Considering aftermarket HID/LED headlights are ILLEGAL, swap em out with FACTORY units or back to stock.
why are you shouting those words? I'm just dealing with the hand I was delt
@@ScannerDanner I don't agree with the computer world's opinion that capitals mean shouting. I like to use them for EMPHASIS sometimes. Back in the old days when people could actually print, sometimes they used all capitals or preferred it that way. Maybe i am being a bit facetious but sometimes i wonder what is going on in schools these days where iPads are being used by even the earliest grades. But maybe that's our future that people will have no handwriting skills. So, if i use capitals in the future, i'm not yelling at you ScannerDanner. I have too much respect for you and your abilities.
Being that it's a mopar product I'm surprised it wasn't the tipm.
I was too!
How about unplugging the lights from the TIPM, and providing power and ground from the battery to test it? 😮
that would be something you would do if you found the TIPM was not sending power out. Once we saw the same results on the working side, there was no reason to dig into the TIPM wiring
Get rid of the codes probably add a resistor inline
To bad you did not get the proper wiring diagram.That would drives me crazy.I was expecting the problem in the aftermarket lights.
You left out the part that sends status to the Gov so they know the parts were tampered with. Rouge Headlights are only the beginning.
My neighbor has 2014 Jeep JL he has had replacement LED lights. But the front turn signals don’t work no flash it lights when on but no flash when turn signal’s activated. BUT back ones flash perfectly 🤷♂️ I gave up told him I can’t fix it . Totally lost. Oh yeah 13.3 volts on feed wire
I imagine this happen after installing LEDs? A lot of times, especially on Dodge you have to had a load resistor to the circuit or you will have problems
@@R3YNZ it was working then just stopped. I think you’re right but I am old school and not good with electrical problems
Cool
Whats the build date of the truck?
Try using OEM diagrams. The Non-OEMs can be nice but wrong.
I use them when I can
Frustrating when you can't count on the SI. One reason I have all the OE SI on top of having alldata.
Anyone care to recommend some good quality backprobes for scope leads vs fluke brand
Do you really like the topdon topscan?
Yes I do! For $100 you can't not have one
@@ScannerDanner Amazon usually has them for $90 on sale right now for $60… $50 yearly subscriptions or it stops working. That’s kinda holding me up. The subscription part over a few years of owning it.
❤😮thank you ...
What scan tool is that you’re using ?
Snap-on Verus Edge
Did you ask if any other things been worked on lately ? 😊
why make all these vehicles like this, all this computer controlled nonsense causing difficult/expensive and hard to repair failures.
Mr. My name is Jamar cox I’m a former student of yours I have a situation with a dodge caravan doing something weird I’m having an issue figuring it out I was wondering if can provide some insight please 🙏🏾
Jamar Cox! I remember you! What's going on my friend? What can I help you with?
Sir please reply...
this question is very very confusing...
I have 2 identical 12V DC 7.5Ah batteries say X and Y.
One side of a normal bulb is connected to postive terminal of X battery, and another side of the bulb is connected to the negative terminal of the Y battery.
The negative terminal of X battery and the positive terminal of Y battery are not connected to anything.
So, in this case, I want to know whether there will be a current flow to the bulb, and whether the bulb will glow??? Give reasons if bulb will glow, and reasons why bulb will not glow.
Thanks in advance.
First, this is a hypothetical of what real world condition?
Second, in theory, nothing will happen (no current flow) as it is an open circuit, but is there some sort of equalization that happens first? Connecting batteries this way, you'll now have 24v, so does the bulb glow during this "equalization" process (probably the wrong word I'm using here)
I run into wiring diagram discrepancy all the time.
With all this new technology that vehicles have, why do people want to add aftermarket stuff like this? Yeah, i guess there are those who want to have a different "look". I think auto lighting systems today provide enough light. You are only asking for trouble. Unless the aftermarket supplies components that cause no problems with the onboard computer and modules setting codes, i would be staying original. As SD stated, those codes will remain there.
Excelente explicación 👍 danner 1 prodem....0 😂