American Flyer 1953-57
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
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Fun Flyer Apparel...trainbrain.cre...
Connect with Austin: Aftrainfun@gmail.com
More Flyer fun on instagram! Find me @Americanflyertrainfun
Here is a link to the NASG website, a great source of American Flyer information: youtube.nasg.org/
Flyer and train related items I have for sale. Site will constantly be updated. sites.google.c...
fiscus products are available at the following link:
www.lbrenterpr...
I had one of these! When I was little! Many many years ago.🚂🚂
My #946 came with a green generator and the light always flickered. But as a kid I was always happy to run it.
Hi Austin! Fairly new watcher of your channel. I really enjoy your determination at repairing your locomotives & equipment! Very encouraging to me! I just started dabbling in S scale and have a small layout for the time being. Sure is a fun hobby, even tho there may be an occasional trial or two! 👍👍
Awesome! Welcome to the hobby!
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains Thank you!
Thanks for the video.
You need something to provide backing for the top of the rivet because it is recessed into the body of the flat car. If you don't there is nothing to pound the rivet tool against to peen over the bottom of the rivet. There is a post that should come with the eyelet/rivet tool to peen over rivets. I have made the same repair to an illuminated 651 Baggage Car.
Thank you but the rivet was so loose that it extended beyond the top of the flat car. After my first couple taps, I saw there was no good way to salvage the rivet. I've never seen one so extra long like that.
@@AustinsAmericanFlyertrains I hadn't seen you put a post or some type of backing for the rivet head in the recess on the top of the flat car bed when you were putting blocks under it. With nothing in the recess against the top of the rivet head you can't peen the bottom over/any tighter no matter how much "violence" you use.
A previous owner may have replaced the rivet/eyelet with a wrong/longer one not meant for a diecast car body.
Glad you got it fixed.
You need the basic set of rivet tools like Doug sells. There is an anvil or two, one of which supports the head and the "punch" part is shaped to properly mushroom the rivet bottom. I've redone trucks on a lot of cars this way with 100% success.
To make it even easier, mount the punch part in a drill press and use the handle of the drill press to create the pressure to mushroom the rivet. Anyone who is serious about repairing or salvaging "junk" cars need to have a least a minimal set of the proper rivet tools.
@@gwesco Eyup, that is exactly what I was referencing. The post comes with a separate base that can be anchored to a bench if you choose. Had mine quite a while. Got it from Doug Peck. Makes it easy to install rivets.
Great video as always Austin! It’s FICUS not Fiscus . Just an FYI
Oh....can't believe I did that...
Very informative. How did you repair the loose wheel?
I pushed it to gauge and then it was tight...not sure what knocked it loose.
That's strange. I was wondering if you were going to glue it.
@ronalddevine9587 after I got done with the rivet replacement it was fixed...Christmas miracle!
Do you have a link to the Fiskus products to find the magnetic rivets?
Check the links below the video...and they are not magnetic.
Whats going to keep that screw from coming loose?
There is a washer...one could also use lock tight/retaining compound